North Star: The Magazine of the North Country Trail
'Wild West' in the Upper Peninsula Part One: From Wisconsin to The Junction of Gogebic Trail DA VE CORNELL carefully maneuvers across the cold waters of the West Branch, Big Iron River.
H
ey Doug! When is the best time to take a two-week hike in the UP? "Start sometime between Sept. 10 and 17 to catch the best combination of fall color and weather that is not too unpredictable," replies Doug Welker, local trail expert and President of the Peter Wolfe Chapter. His advice on weather, campsites and route adjustments proves invaluable as we plan for another hike. Months later, all the gear is checked and rechecked, food repackaged, maps ready and hiking partner and NCTA Board Member David Cornell and I arrive from opposite directions at a motel in Hurley, WI where we will spend the night before our hike. Day 1: Bright and early on the morning of Sept. 10 while the grass remains saturated with dew, we make the short walk up Highway 51 toward its junction with US-2, turn east and pass the "Welcome To Michigan" sign at the outskirts of Ironwood. The Country Kitchen is our first stop for a big breakfast to fuel the typically tough first day of a hike. Page 10
In the Wisconsin-Michigan border area, the North Country Trail is not yet built-so today is spent following paved roads north and east from Ironwood. By mid-morning. we are near the local airport when we first spot the Copper Peak Ski Flying Area ramp protruding far above the horizon.
"We'll be there after a couple of miles of hiking tomorrow morning," I say to Dave. This tells you that the ski jump is for serious jumpers because it's so long it can be seen for miles. About 3:00 in the afternoon, we arrive at our destination for the night-the old wayside park along Black River Scenic Byway. It is a little early to stop but we do not know of a better campsite for the next several miles so we stop for a leisurely evening-including a swim in the Black River below the campsite. Day 2: When Dave and I hike together, we get up and depart early, walk a couple of hours, and then stop for breakfast. By the time we are ready for breakfast today, we have reached the ski flying area and a convenient picnic table. After breakfast we finally reach the NCT trailhead in the Ottawa National Forest. Except for a couple of very
By BILL
MENKE
short stretches (near Black River Harbor and Old Victoria), for the next 11 days we will have off-road trail to follow. The combined trail in Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park and in the Ottawa National Forest is one of the longest and least populated stretches on the entire trail. We plan to be fully self-sufficient. There are no houses, restaurants or other facilities near the trail. We have made arrangements for one food-drop at Old Victoria and will stay in the new hiking shelter there on Day 7 of the hike. But, there are lots of miles to cover and lots of wonderful experiences before we think about that. Most of today is spent paralleling the Black River-first heading downstream on the west side-past the numerous spectacular waterfalls and their associated observation decks provided by the Ottawa. When the river empties into Lake Superior, we cross the large NCT suspension bridge. What a thrill to look across the small harbor, where most of the boats appear to have already been readied for winter, and realize that this wonderful trail in all its diversity follows or parallels the