The Magazine of the NORTH COUNTRY TRAIL ASSOCIATION
October--December, 2008
Volume 27, No. 4
Brule Boardwalk Page 6 Mapping Our Trail Page 9 Winter is Wonderful on the NCT… If You’re Prepared! Page 11 Hodenpyl Reroute Page 14
Trail Magic
TRAIL
HEAD DAVE CORNELL President
Fifth in a series:
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t was a Sunday morning in rural Pennsylvania during one of my hikes along the North Country Trail. We had trekked into a rural hamlet to watch soccer’s World Cup. It turned out that the only place we could watch the event was a small rural store/one pump gas station. We departed the next morning for the trail, leaving in our wake a fog of spent beer fumes (my Aussie hiking pal Alf insisted on buying us all large bottles of beer to drink while watching The Cup). On the way back up the mountain I was approached by a middle-aged man driving a very old and rusted pickup truck. I stopped, thinking that he was going to ask (as a lot of people did) what I was doing. I was wrong. He wanted to have me come to his house for breakfast. I explained that I was hiking with two other people who were just slightly ahead. He invited all of us. I accepted.
Before getting into a vehicle I try to size up the situation and determine if there is any risk. I sensed no difficulties with this man. He was middle aged, nondescript, clean, and had not been drinking but most important he had a big hound riding in the front seat with him. I learned that he was on the way home after going to church. After picking up my hiking companions we proceeded to his home. Home was a very old and very clean trailer which he shared with a woman and her daughter. The woman was not friendly and we soon gathered the reason why. In a voice that was designed for carping she asked him what he thought he was going to feed us, as there was nothing to eat for them. Our host appeared from the back of the trailer and indicated he was going to have to run an errand. We tried to protest that we would just as soon be on our way but he would have none of it. He instructed the young girl to stay with us and went off to run his “errand.” He returned with eggs and bread and fixed us breakfast. During the meal we learned that every piece of bad luck that could befall someone
had visited him. It was a story we have all heard: out of work, out of benefits, a bowl on the kitchen table that contained food stamps. But the sense of pride in this man was palpable. No way was he going to accept money from us. So I told our host that I had a habit of thanking people for their help by way of sending them a thank-you note after reaching home. I asked him for his address and asked if he would pose for a picture. They agreed and the image contained in that photograph is indelibly etched in my mind. There we are, three hikers without a care in this world, enjoying breakfast provided by a family down on its luck. Hang on now; that’s not the end of this story. This man also asked if he could pose for a picture with his “tank.” Tank? What tank, I asked. It turned out this man’s proudest possession was the gas tank to a Harley Davidson motorcycle that had been hand painted by someone with a lot of talent. No motorcycle; just the tank. A man with nothing had gone out of his way to help us. I will never forget his kindness. There. You have my best trail magic story.
North Country Trail Association The North Country Trail Association develops, maintains, preserves and promotes the North Country National Scenic Trail through a trail-wide coalition of volunteers and partners. Our vision for the North Country National Scenic Trail is that of a premier footpath of national significance, offering a superb experience for hikers in a permanently protected corridor, traversing and interpreting the richly diverse environmental, cultural, and historic features of the northern United States.
Come Visit Us!
The Lowell office is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 229 East Main Street, Lowell, MI 49331 Phone (866) HikeNCT • 616-897-5987 • Fax (616) 897-6605 www.northcountrytrail.org
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The North Star
October–December 8
A Glance Inside
Staff Andrew Bashaw, Regional Trail Coordinator Ohio/Pennsylvania andrewbashaw@northcountrytrail.org
Jill DeCator, Administrative Assistant jdecator@northcountrytrail.org
Matt Davis, Regional Trail Coordinator Minnesota/North Dakota davis@northcountrytrail.org
Laura Lindstrom, Office Manager/Financial Administrator llindstrom@northcountrytrail.org
Bruce Matthews, Executive Director bmatthews@northcountrytrail.org
Mary Meehan, Communications Manager mmeehan@northcountrytrail.org
Bill Menke, Regional Trail Coordinator Great Lakes bill_menke@partner.nps.gov Matt Rowbotham, GIS/IT Specialist mattrowbotham@northcountrytrail.org
National Board of Directors Terms Expiring 2009 Sarah Julien, Secretary, At Large Rep., (616)676-0172 · sajulien@comcast.net
Christopher Klein, VP West, Minnesota Rep., (320)766-9635 · klein11@midwestinfo.com
Al Larmann, At Large Rep.,
(315)697-3387 · AFLarmann@msn.com
John Heiam,
(231)938-9655 · johnheiam@charter.net
Terms Expiring 2010 Joyce Appel, Pennsylvania Rep.,
(724)526-5407 · joyceappel@windstream.net
Lyle Bialk, Lower Michigan Rep.,
(810)679-2401 · lylebialk@sbcglobal.net
Carl Boesel Ohio Rep.,
(740)385-0074 · gboesel@hocking.net
Jack Cohen, At Large Rep.,
The Hodenpyle Reroute drew upon human ingenuity to transport materials to the work site in northwest lower Michigan this fall. For story and photos of members building this new section, turn to page 14.
Articles
Columns
Brule Boardwalk...........................6 Trail Project Managagement Update.................8 Mapping Our Trail.......................9 Winter is Wonderful on the NCT If You’re Prepared!.......................11 The Hodenpyl Reroute...............14 Remembering Howard and Harmon......................................17 Cherry Run Suspension Bridge......23 New Regional Trail Office.........18 Triad...........................................19
Trailhead.......................................2 Matthews’ Meanders.....................4 Fred Szarka.................................18
Departments
Milestones...................................16 Hiking Shorts.............................22 Who’s Who Along the Trail.......20
(724)234-5398 · JCohen@zoominternet.net
Dave Cornell, President, At Large Rep., (239)561-6512 · onestep@mei.net
Larry Hawkins, At Large Rep.,
(269)945-5398 · hawkeyemd@cablespeed.com
Lorana Jinkerson, At Large Rep., (906)226-6210 · ljinkers@nmu.com
Bobby Koepplin, First VP Finance, At Large Rep., (701)845-2935 · bkoepplin@kwh.com
Gaylord Yost Great Lakes Rep.,
About the Cover Winter is a great time on the North Country Trail. See story on page 11.
(414)354-8987 · gaylyost@aol.com
Terms Expiring 2011 Mary Coffin, VP East, New York Rep., (315)687-3589 · mcoffin1@twcny.rr.com
Garry Dill, At Large Rep.,
(614)451-0223 · then321elm@yahoo.com
Alicia Hoffarth, North Dakota Rep., (701)490-3889 · cahoffarth@hotmail.com
North Star Staff
Irene Szabo, Editor (585)658-4321 or treeweenie@aol.com Mary Meehan, Staff Editor The North Star, Fall Issue, Vol. 27, Issue 4, is published by the North Country Trail Association, a private, not-for-profit 501(c)(3) organization, 229 East Main Street, Lowell, MI 49331. The North Star is published quarterly for promotional and educational purposes and as a benefit of membership in the Association. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the North Country Trail Association.
October–December 8
The North Star
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ESULTS….whether your background is business, education, government…for profit or not, the bottom line in determining effectiveness and success is results. Are you delivering on your promises, are you meeting your deadlines, are you achieving the desired outcomes? At the North Country Trail Association we do pride ourselves in nurturing a family and community atmosphere, at headquarters, with staff and in our relationships with our members. This happens by design and is one result we strive to achieve. But we also understand very well that the more tangible results make the difference in whether we’re going to grow as an organization, and thus better meet our shared vision in building the North Country Trail and telling its story. And, my friends, we need to get better at delivering tangible results. We’ve made significant progress this past year in financial management, as I believe our chapter officers will confirm. Financial reports are out on schedule, and chapter funding remains at 100%. Though we’re still late in delivering North Star (we’d like you to be getting it early in the quarter rather that at the end) we are on schedule. You’re getting the Blue Blazes e-newsletter at least once a month. We had a great Cazenovia conference, attended by more members than ever. The tide has turned and your Association is delivering much more effectively than it was a year ago. But there’s much progress yet to be made. I’d suggest we’re at 40% of where we need to be if we want to say the NCTA is operating at full efficiency and delivering on all its promises. We will continue to improve as staff members focus
MATTHEWS’
MEANDERS BRUCE MATTHEWS Executive Director
on key initiatives, work smarter, and develop accountability and transparency in our work planning. We will continue to use the “Executive Dashboard” to report progress on goal accomplishments; as our new website grows we’ll build a place where interested members can monitor our progress on a regular basis. In my travels I’m occasionally asked whether I’m happy with the state of affairs at NCTA. My honest response is that I’m grateful we’re still in business, but we need to make some dramatic improvements if we’re going to approach the organizational potential that I, as a fellow NCTA member, do expect of my Association. I invite you to join me in enabling this to be so—in your communications, participation in chapter and Association leadership, in your financial support, and in sharing about the Trail and our Association with friends, neighbors and in your community. After all, we’ve got a Trail to build. Perhaps more important, we’ve got a nationally significant idea to bring to life, and a legacy to leave to hikers coming behind us. Our NCTA is a means to this end. Let’s make it as effective as it can be.
Thank You For Supporting The North Country Trail Association!
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e appreciate the support of our members through dues and through our year-end appeal. The members of the North Country Trail Association are making an amazing investment in
building this special trail and telling its story. Your efforts today are part of a groundswell of support focused on finishing the remaining 2200 miles of the North Country Trail, the longest in the national system. So far, our members have done an amazing job—you’ve put more North Country Trail on the ground in 28 years than the Appalachian Trail is long—and that took close to 100 years to accomplish! There are two ways you can participate in this year’s appeal, through a cash donation or by giving the gift of a sponsored membership to those who might share your passion for the North Country Trail. Help us reach our goal of 4600 members—a member for every mile! Visit www.northcountrytrail.org to participate.
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The North Star
October–December 8
New Recruits Join the NCTA Board of Directors
John Heiam
Lorana Jinkerson
ppointed to vacant seats, these two new board members join our Directors at the December meeting in Lowell, Michigan. John Heiam and Lois Goldstein were long-time members of outdoor groups when they lived in the Chicago area, so when they retired and moved to Michigan in 1990, the couple immediately joined several outdoor groups. One of them was the Grand Traverse Hiking Club. At the time, the club didn’t have any organized group hikes and when John mentioned to other club members that he would be willing to organize some activities they encouraged him. “They said that was normally done by the club vice-president and since the position was empty, they drafted me into it,” John says with a smile. Later that year, the president left and that position was left open. John once again answered the call. He recognized that the club had an active core group of volunteers who wanted to build the trail and was glad to handle the administrative role so those members could stay active on the trail. The chapter recently completed the Hodenpyl reroute, which connects with 250 miles of continuous trail in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. (See story page 14.) When John was approached about joining the NCTA board, he agreed because he believes that his years of involvement in outdoor clubs have prepared him well for the role. “I know what it takes from an organization to support a chapter’s success
at the local level. That’s how I plan to approach this, which is maybe a different perspective,” says John. Lorana Jinkerson joined the North Country Trail Hikers in October 2005. The retired professor of education at Northern Michigan University also joined other outdoor groups but the North Country Trail and its activities have really proven to be a good fit. “I’m gung ho about the trail. So when they asked if I would be interested in serving on the board, I said yes,” she says. With the North Country Trail Hikers, Lorana has been active in trail work as well as chapter leadership. She adopted a section of the trail near her home in Marquette, Michigan, and also serves as the chapter’s communications person, who edits the newsletter, does interviews, and promotes events. Lorana has been especially involved in the Softies Hikes, hikes done in short, easy stretches but without sleeping in tents, eating freeze-dried food, or carrying big packs! They look for air-conditioned motels with pools and hot tubs and restaurants with great food and spirits. (For more about the Softies, see the April 2008 North Star.) “Lorana is a great team player, and visionary leader of the North Country Trail Hikers in Marquette. She’s got great organizational experience, a good grasp of education practice and a thorough commitment to trail-based recreation. She will significantly increase the quality of the board through her participation,” says Bruce Matthews.
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Arlen Matsen and the Hodenpyl Reroute The Traverse City Record-Eagle featured Arlen Matsen in an article by Mike Terrell, describing and honoring his twenty years of trail-building along those 90 NCT miles for the Grand Traverse Hiking Club, including this year’s Hodenpyl reroute. Mike described the new path: “The new section of trail, following the irregular edge of the pond, is around eight miles of hiking. It’s a beautiful trek of fairly easy hiking— no large hills or deep ravines to cross like you would find hiking the old section of trail north of Marilla Road. There are many great views along the pond of the hardwood and pine studded hills that rise above the far shore. The tall Yuma hills that tower over the village of Mesick to the south can be easily seen. Fall colors will be outstanding along this new section of trail. On calm, sunny days the mirror-like surface of the pond, reflecting the colors, should be astounding. It will be a visual delight. To get this new section of trail cut into the landscape and blazed as well as constructing two footbridges to cross creeks and wetlands and build two information kiosks, required something like 1,400 hours of work by trail crews, headed up by Matson and Dick Naperala, according to club president John Heiam. ‘They did an astounding amount of work this spring and summer to get this new section completed in time for the fall color season,’ Heiam said. ‘At times they would have 20 to 25 people helping build the new trail and bridges, and they worked right through the rainy periods. It’s a big volunteer task.’”
October–December 8
The North Star
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Brule Bog Boardwalk Another Chapter
Left to right, Linda Sootsman, Bill Menke, DeWayne Cox, Joan Cox, Quinn Fuller, Laine Fuller, Dave Schultz. Bill Menke Great Lakes Regional Trail Coordinator
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n National Trails Day 2008, DeWayne and Joan Cox, along with grandsons Laine and Quinn, participated in a well attended dedication of the longest stretch of boardwalk, which is located west of road County P. This section of boardwalk was dedicated to the memory of Eric Cox who was tragically killed in a plane crash in northern Minnesota while doing wildlife surveys. Parents DeWayne and Joan chose to do something meaningful in his memory and we in northwestern Wisconsin are honored that they chose to make such a generous contribution toward the completion of the boardwalk. The 45 people in attendance enjoyed remarks made by chapter president, Dave Zosel, Regional Trail Coordinator, Bill Menke, and Brule River State Forest Superintendent, Dave Schultz. Following the unveiling of a cast bronze plaque mounted on a bench in the middle of the bog, Joan showed the group pictures and news articles about her son and told the group more about Eric. Previous articles about this special place and the new boardwalk that was constructed to cross it can be found in the April-June 2007 and in the OctoberDecember 2007 issues of the North Star. Those articles discuss the need for
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The North Star
crossing the bog and how it was done. They also report the Cornelius family’s support and the dedication of the first portion of the boardwalk that spans St. Croix Creek. This article will update readers about what has happened since late 2007 and conclude another chapter in the saga. The long boardwalk (actually three separate sections) is now FINISHED. Work on the boardwalk (Type 3 Built up Puncheon) continued throughout 2007 and into 2008. In June 2008, one of NCTA’s Volunteer Adventure crews was on hand to finish the final stretch and reach the west side of the bog. However, many other crews and individuals contributed to the total effort. Overall, the construction of this structure occupied ten BSC Roving Trail Crew weeks, two YCC (NPS Trego-St Croix National Scenic Riverways) weeks, and the Volunteer Adventure week—for a total of over 3,250 person hours. Additionally, local chapter members contributed many more hours cutting and hauling materials to the work site, but this information is not available to me. I only know that they were a significant part of the equation and the crews couldn’t function efficiently without their support in having the materials on site. The National Park Service approved four different CCS projects that covered the vast majority of the expenses, and
October–December 8
totaled over $32,600. These funds were matched by the above mentioned volunteer hours, materials worth about $5000 contributed by Brule River State Forest, a Cornelius family donation of over $1,700 and the Cox family donation of $5,000 for a total of over $69,000. These amounts are massive! But the outcome is certainly worth it as the boardwalk stretches almost 4,000 feet across the bog, leading hikers through this unique environment and protecting the fragile nature of the wetland. Old growth northern white cedar, black spruce, and black ash are now easily observed. On the floor of the bog, a variety of emerald green mosses, sphagnum, delicate ferns and other wetland plants interspersed with holes of tannin colored water provide a beautiful hiking experience. According to chapter president David Zosel, “The boardwalk has done more to call attention to the North Country Trail than all of the ten previous years and many miles of trail construction in the area.” The boardwalk is being visited by people with impaired mobility, continuing education classes studying watersheds, families on their way to or from church on Sundays, and many other local residents and visitors
to the area. It is serving as the focal point of the North Country Trail in the Solon Springs area.
Part of Wisconsin’s Brule Bog Boardwalk is dedicated to the memory of Eric Cox.R
North Country Trail Volunteers Gain National Service Recognition
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hile they make a difference to us, two volunteers of the North Country Trail have also received national recognition for their service.
Leinen Elected Treasurer of Partnership for the National Trails System John Leinen, Jr., who is the North Country Trail representative for the Partnership for the National Trails System, was recently elected to the Treasurer’s office, putting him on the executive committee of that organization. The Partnership for the National Trails System (Partnership) is a nonprofit organized to further the protection, completion, and stewardship of the National Trails System. Members are the organizations like the NCTA which work to support and sustain the national scenic and historic trails within the National Trails System. “I think it’s really good to have someone in the inner circle of the organization, so the voice of the North Country Trail will always be heard,” says Gary Warner, executive director of the Partnership for the National Trails. John Leinen served as the immediate past-president of the NCTA board until August 2007. He continues to serve as a member of the executive board, which he has done for the past eight years. In Minnesota, John has been the state trail coordinator, served on the state trail council, and also was a
board member of the Parks and Trails Council of Minnesota for 16 years. John received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the highest service award bestowed, from the North Country Trail Association in 2007.
Szabo Recieves Trail Advocate Award The American Trails Association is the only non-profit national organization dedicated to promotion of all kinds of trails, from hiking trails to four-wheel drive truck trails and everything in between. At their annual national symposium, held this year in Arkansas in mid-November, they presented awards to trail volunteers and organizations, including one Trail Advocate Award per state. Irene Szabo, of the North Country Trail Association and Finger Lakes Trails Conference, was the recipient of this year’s award. Trail Advocate “nominee(s) must have demonstrated successful efforts to influence public policy relating to trail planning, trail protection, trail development, or maintenance,” according to ATA award criteria. Robert Reinhardt, senior planner with NY’s Office of Parks, Recreation, and Historic Preservation in Albany, nominated Irene Szabo, based on his long acquaintance with her work on the NY State Trails Council. A review of past Trail Advocate winners reveals very few hiking-only trail volunteers, adding some shine to this recognition.
he t t a s in u o J ! e t nc e da e r e e h f t n e Sav ua l C o n n A NCTA July 30 - August 2, 2009 in Valley City, North Dakota
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eet new people, visit with old acquaintances, hike, learn something new, and be entertained! This year’s event includes full and half-day hikes, workshops, entertainment, the fun and famous auction and silent auction, plus more. A number of lodging options are available including dorm rooms, camping, hotel or bed and breakfast accommodations. Additional information will be in the next issue and on our web site. This year’s chair, Bobby Koepplin, has put forth a challenge that if at least one representative from each chapter attends this year’s festivities, the conference committee will refund one registration fee to each chapter attending. So make your plans now!
Special Lodging Offer to NCTA Attendees traveling through Minnesota to the 2009 Conference! An NCTA Bed & Breakfast is being hosted by Beth and Jerry Trout from Hackensack, MN. Distance from the conference site is ideal for a morning drive over after overnight at the Trout’s. If you are coming from Duluth, Wisconsin or Michigan, their place is seven miles south of HWY 200 and less than ten miles from the North Country Trail. There are beds for 14 and additional room for tents for those wanting to camp. Three bath rooms with showers, plus a toilet in the RV. There is a great beach with water sports available. Beth and Jerry will even serve an evening meal and breakfast! There is no charge but those staying are asked to make a donation as they wish to the NCTA. For more information or reservations, contact Jerry and Beth Trout at jbtrout@tds. net or 218-675-5448.
October–December 8
The North Star
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Trail Project Management Update
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CTA’s Trail Project Management (TPM) is underway in Pennsylvania thanks to funding from the Colcom Foundation! Trail Project Management is an initiative being developed by the trail and cartography staff. The idea is to use our GIS capabilities to identify discrete trail projects and geographically link related information to these projects, including cost predictions, landowner permissions, photos, structures plans, work timetables and funding possibilities. “This will allow us to be more proactive in trail development and will also help chapters, staff, and agency partners like the National Park Service communicate along the length of the trail, helping to prioritize our work together,” says Andrew Bashaw, Regional Trail Coordinator. The “system” of GIS is not just the software: it includes all of the computers, the GPS units, the satellites orbiting the earth, and most importantly this system includes people, people who use the equipment, enter the information, and make decisions based on that information. During the implementation stage, current trail data will be put in, additional information will be gathered from chapters, and finally maps will be developed for chapters. The GPS will offer information about trail landmarks, highlights, threats and assets, plus proposed trail routes. “Right now we’re talking over a cup of coffee, poring over maps of a chapter’s extent with markers in hand. That information is being entered into the computer where it can be mapped, analyzed and added to other important information like property boundaries, contour lines, etc.,” says Bashaw. While we all know a chunk about our section of the trail, TPM is a method to collect and organize that information in a way that can be continually updated and used to identify trail structures to be built, landowner permissions of the highest priority, assess existing trail that needs improvement, and more. The ultimate goal is to give chapters the option of planning a year or more in advance, which will help in securing funding and consolidating the plans of the NCTA with other local partners, like foundations and land trusts. This information will also be a helpful tool for seamless leadership turnover at the state or chapter level. “Keep in mind as NCTA staff speak to you on the phone or visit your chapter that you are helping to plan the future of the Trail. It may get pretty tedious as we work out the bugs of what information to collect, what we produce and how we use it,” says Bashaw, “but it will ultimately give us a first-rate tool to use in trail development.” The pilot program in Pennsylvania is currently being developed thanks to funding from the Colcom Foundation. Other states will have TPM programs available in the near future. Check out the next issue of the North Star to find out what was produced over the winter and how it can be used at the chapter level.
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The North Star
October–December 8
Mapping the North Country Trail Simply put, GIS or Geographic Information Systems is a collection of computer hardware and software (including GPS equipment) focused on collecting, housing and reporting information about stuff (features and phenomena) on the ground. At the NCTA, GIS is the tool we use to make all of our hiking maps and many of the maps you might see in the North Star or at a trailhead kiosk. However, the usefulness of GIS doesn’t end with maps. We use GIS to answer a lot of questions about the North Country Trail. For example, during the course of a week we may get calls from congressional aides, media reporters or one of our state agency partners asking for information on a specific segment of the NCT. These questions are varied: how many miles of trail need to be built in a certain congressional district, what areas of the trail are open to camping in say, southern Michigan, or what percentage of trail in Pennsylvania is on state game lands? GIS makes answering all of these questions easier. With the addition of our regional trail coordinators, we are now able to expand the focus of our GIS towards trail management efforts. For example, working in conjunction with a county’s GIS department we are able to identify key private property owners in areas where the trail still needs to be taken off road. In applications like this, GIS can really be a time saver. We are excited about the direction we are taking with our GIS program at the NCTA. We’ve got lots of cool things in the works, including opportunities for folks to grab their GPS units, hit the trail and have fun, while helping to improve the information we have! The strong position we are in today would not be possible without the continued support of our National Park Service partner along with the solid foundation that was laid by the work of Tiffany Stram and Bill Menke. Feel free to contact Matt Rowbotham if you’re interested in doing some GPS work or if you have any questions at 616-897-5987 or mrobotham@northcountrytrail.org. For additional information on GIS see www.gis.com, www.esri.com, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIS, or Google Earth at http://earth.google.com.
Timeline History of North Country Trail GIS. 1997 NCTA began producing 1:24,000 scale hike maps of select areas along the trail. 2000 Trail centerline was created in the Midwest region GIS office of the National Park Service, Madison, Wisconsin. Production of 1:100,000 scale hiking maps for entire trail begins. 2006 NCTA receives full ArcGIS suite – Arc INFO license through the National Park Service. 2007 Expanded focus of GIS to include trail inventory and assessment. 2008 NCTA receives grant from Colcom Foundation in Pennsylvania to launch Trail Project Management system for Pennsylvania.
M appi ng Ou r Trai l The Jordan River Valley Pathway segment of the NCT is awesome! This is a great scenic and rugged section of trail. Matt Rowbotham NCTA GIS Specialist
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hanks in part to some year-end funding provided by the NPS I had the opportunity to grab my backpack and GPS unit and hit the trail to complete some much needed GPS work in northern Lower Michigan and the Upper Peninsula. I spent five days on the trail, car camping from trailhead to trailhead and GPS’n trail during the day. All in all I was able to inventory (hike) about 65 miles of trail from Bowman Lake near Baldwin to Wilderness State Park near Mackinaw City. I also took a quick trip to Tahquamenon Falls State Park to scope out the trail and facilities there. My primary objective with this trip was to collect data for some of the most popular sections of the NCT, with the winter-time goal of producing some new map products that highlight these premier segments. Much of what I wanted to inventory was information on attractions supplemental to
the main NCT, side trails as well as destination spots. I hit the northern part of Michigan at exactly the right time of year; the fall colors were great and except for one day of rain, so was the weather. October is a great time of year to do some backpacking in the northern tier states. Even though I backpacked in both Colorado and West Virginia this year, I have to say how absolutely impressed I was with both the scenic qualities of the trail I saw in northern Michigan as well as the general backcountry experience. And it’s so much closer to home! However, in my mind the most impressive aspect of this whole North Country Trail project is always the volunteers. On most days, I was guided on my hike by volunteers from the local NCTA chapter. I really enjoyed being shown many of their successes – new trail construction, back country bridges, etc., as well as being able to give an ear to the many Matt Rowbotham
October–December 8
The North Star
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Matt Rowbotham
Matt Rowbotham
Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub is a great place to get a dark beer and pasty after a day of hiking or snowshoeing.
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The North Star
Tahquamenon Falls - Upper Falls – The Tahquamenon Falls SP segment of the NCT is a great four season destination.
Matt Rowbotham
struggles they face, such as challenges with state agencies and private land owners. Spending time with and getting to know our volunteers better is always a great experience for me. Doing field work like this would be much more difficult without the logistical support of volunteers like Lenny Greenwood, Jerry Keeney, Tim Calloway, Peg Myers, Cora Killinger, Ed Morse and Joan Young. I’m especially thankful for the hospitality of Arlen and Arlene Matson. I met Arlen at his house one afternoon after being out in the cold rain all morning. As he and I began to pore over maps and start to talk trail, Arlene appeared with warm tea and a great lunch. Then after our long day of looking at trail and activities with the local chapter, they even offered me (now four days without a shower and near 50 miles of hiking) a warm place to sleep. But the draw of the cool clear autumn night sky and nearly full moon was too much to resist. So I loaded up and headed to my next trailhead for one last campout, but not before getting a copy of Arlen’s new book and some snacks from Arlene. I fell asleep that night after reading from the Adventures of Anderson and enjoying a homemade pumpkin muffin.
The Bowman Lake Trail is just outside of Baldwin in the Manistee National Forest; it parallels the NCT to form a great 8 mile loop. There are four secluded designated campsites on the south end of the loop around Bowman Lake.
October–December 8
Winter is Wonderful If You’re Prepared!
On the North Country Trail...
Matthew Davis Regional Trail Coordinator
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inter can be an absolutely wonderful time to get outdoors. My top five reasons for liking winter activities are:
1. there aren’t any bugs, 2. you can go places on foot that you can’t in the other seasons (walk on water in large swamps!) 3. without leaves, there are more great views, 4. you can find solitude more easily, and 5. did I mention there are no bugs! Last year, two NCTA volunteers and I spent the coldest day of our Minnesota winter out flagging new trail in the Chippewa National Forest. Temperatures during the day varied from -25 to -15 degrees but we stayed warm, dry, happy, and productive.
Doing Your Homework “Plan ahead and prepare” is the first Leave No Trace® principle for a reason! Preparation is even more critical for winter when the elements pose more of a danger, so to be safe and enjoy your trip, think ahead: • Don’t go alone if at all possible. If this is not possible, let someone know exactly where you’re going and when you’ll return. • Map out access points along your route and sources of nearest help. • If you are new to hiking, the outdoors, or winter activities, you should plan some easy close-to-home trips first. This will help you learn and allow you to make some mistakes in a more forgiving place. Once you feel more comfortable and have the right gear, you can begin to explore more backcountry spots.
The Right Clothing Everyone has heard the adage that layering is the proper way to dress for outdoor activities. This is even more vital in winter when sweaty clothes could mean increased danger from hypothermia. It is important to consider what kind of activity you’re going to be participating in: obviously, you’ll sweat more cross-country skiing or breaking trail on snowshoes than just walking on a packed trail. Layering for winter activities should include: • A base layer (long underwear) whose purpose is to wick moisture away from the skin. Did you know that you could sweat anywhere from 2 to 4 quarts during a day spent skiing or snowshoeing? Synthetic fibers (polyester, polypropylene, etc.) and some natural fibers like wool and silk work best. Never use cotton as it does NOT wick away moisture but instead absorbs it and holds it close to your skin, which helps conduct body heat away from the body. For winter activities, just remember the simple phrase “cotton kills.” Light, medium, or expedition weights are available with most synthetic long underwear. Light or medium weights are better for active outdoor pursuits while expedition is best for winter camping. • An insulating layer to retain your body heat while allowing moisture to pass through. Pants should be nonconstricting, either wool or fleece. Shirts could be a heavy synthetic material or a light fleece sweater while a down jacket could also suffice. • An outer layer whose purpose is to prevent wind and precipitation from reaching the skin while also allowing moisture from your body to exit.
Matt Davis enjoys being out on the trail in the cold Minnesota winters.
Windproof/waterproof/breathable materials (for example, Gore-Tex) are critical since your torso is most susceptible to cold. Breathability is critically important…remember those 2 to 4 quarts of water you’ll sweat out in a day have to go somewhere! Jackets should have drawstring sleeve openings and drawcord waists to keep snow out. Other useful features for a jacket include a full-length zipper, a hood, pit zips, and lots of pockets inside and out. Pants should be easy to put on and take off over boots, thanks to zippers. • Waterproof gaiters are essential for keeping snow out of your boots so your feet stay dry. • A sock layering system includes synthetic wicking liner sock and
October–December 8
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Minnesota (http://www.andrewskurka. com/ICE07/index.php) for a good example. For the rest of us…. Backpack features to consider: • Is it compatible with a hydration system? • Are there accessible pockets? • Is it made from waterproof material? • Can skis or snowshoes be strapped onto the pack? • Is it large enough to carry what you need in winter?
Winter hiking provides good fitness and peaceful solitude.
outer wool, bulky synthetic, or woolsynthetic blends. Some newer socks specify that you not use liners, so check the label. • Gloves could include polypro liners under wool mittens, waterproofed leather mitts, or insulated synthetic fabric mitten/glove combos. • Winter hats that cover your ears and are made out of wool, fleece, or an insulated fabric are essential since up to 40% of your body heat may be lost from an uncovered head. If the forecast is for low temperatures, consider a balaclava that covers your face and neck. • Proper footwear is critical for winter activities because your shoes are always in contact with water when traveling on snow. Winter shoes come in lightweight (trail running shoes or hiking boots), traditional mukluks, or pac boot designs. Lightweight shoes and your normal hiking boots work well if the snow is not deep (or if snowshoeing on a well-packed trail) and if the temperature is not too low. With trail shoes, it would be advisable also to wear a waterproof/ breathable sock/bootie. Mukluks® and winter pac boots are better for longer trips and colder temperatures. Mukluks® are traditional native boots made from all-natural materials like moosehide and are much lighter than pac boots. They can be treated with silicone to be “waterproof ” but they keep your feet warm by encouraging constant blood flow throughout your
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feet. Pac boots are insulated and waterproof, typically made from manmade materials, and are comfort rated to as low as -148 degrees. • Not only do you need to think about wearing all of this, but you also should have an extra set of layers in your pack to change into if you get wet or cold. Extra clothes should be packed into a waterproof bag. Ziploc® will do!
The Right Gear And Equipment Wearing everything above adds up to bulky; it is possible, however, to go ultralight in the winter…but you had better be very experienced before trying it as you’re taking a large gamble. Read about Andy Skurka’s 2007 “Ultralight in the Nation’s Icebox” hike on the NCT in
You should develop an emergency kit for winter activities that contains an emergency (or space) blanket (it reflects up to 80% of lost body heat), map and compass, water treatment items, headlamp, flagging tape, First Aid kit (for winter, add disposable heat packs, glucose solution, and electrolyte tabs to your kit), and a firestarter. Other handy items to have along include waterproof/windproof matches, a multi-tool, duct tape, candle and a metal cup (for melting snow to get water), a plastic garbage bag (has many uses!), GPS unit, cell phone, extra batteries, sunscreen, and sunglasses. Think through some worst case scenarios that could happen on your trip… falling through the ice, spraining your ankle, getting caught outside after dark, etc. You should know how you’d address each issue and pack the right stuff to deal with the problems before actually encountering them. If you’ve just fallen through the ice in winter, it’s too late to wish you’d packed extra clothes and garbage bags.
A group prepares to snowshoe in northern Wisconsin.
October–December 8
The Right Food In general, you should plan to eat and drink before you start then nibble and drink often during the activity. Winter activities burn lots of calories – between 3000 and 4500 for a man and up to 2700 a day for a woman. In winter, you should plan for lots of snacks in addition to meals. Sugary foods provide instant energy while complex carbohydrates (crackers/breads, fruits/veggies) and fats (cheese, meats, nuts, chocolate) provide more long-term energy. Increase the proportion of proteins to 15-20% of your intake while fats should be 30-40% for winter activities. Fats are good as they contain twice the energy as carbohydrates or proteins. Don’t worry…you’ll burn it off.
adding another layer or drinking a warm liquid. You should suspect another is hypothermic if they become lethargic, lose dexterity in their hands, or their breathing becomes more shallow and rapid. To treat someone who you think is experiencing mild hypothermia, warm their core up gradually. Cover them with a blanket, sleeping bag or clothing, snuggle up to share body warmth, and give them warm, sweet liquids. If mild hypothermia is left untreated, the hypothermic victim will only get worse. At this point they will shiver more violently, move and speak more clumsily, and become pale with bluish lips, ears, fingers and toes. These are symptoms of moderate hypothermia. Victims displaying these signs should be evacuated immediately. If left untreated at this point, the body’s shivering eventually stops; the victim becomes unable to speak or move easily, their pulse and breathing slow, they burrow into small spaces, and they often display irrational behavior, even shed clothing because they are too warm! The unfortunate next step is death as vital organs begin to fail. Method of Heat Loss
What it Means
How to Combat It
Radiation
heat loss through the skin
Cover your body with clothing, including wearing a hat
Conduction
Touching cold objects like snow, ice, metals
Cover your body with clothing, including wearing gloves
Convection
Wind moving across the body takes away warm air from the body and clothing
Wear windproof clothing, and get out of the wind
Evaporation
Fast, excessive sweat loss
Respiration
Breathing in cold air and exhaling warm air
Trail lovers of all ages can enjoy all four seasons of north country living.
While out on the trail, keep snack foods readily accessible in a fanny pack or pockets and drink regularly. Hydration systems (with insulated reservoir, tubes, and bite valve) are great for this. At the very least, keep your water bottle insulated; the motion of your activities should keep it from freezing solid. Don’t eat snow to get your water as it takes valuable energy to melt the snow, which reduces your core temperature and can lead to fatigue. Another item to avoid is alcoholic beverages as they dehydrate and can provide a false sense of warmth. For emergency purposes, it’s a good idea to carry an extra day’s worth of food (extra energy bars, nuts, dried fruits or jerky).
The Human Race’s Winter Enemy…Hypothermia Hypothermia is the #1 killer of outdoor recreationists! By definition, it is abnormally low body temperature that leads to both mental and physical collapse. It is caused by prolonged exposure to cold and is aggravated by wet, wind, and exhaustion (which is amplified by hunger and dehydration). Decreasing core body temperature leads your body to constrict blood vessels in the outer extremities and initiate shivering in an effort to generate more heat and keep vital organs warm. Shivering drains your body’s energy reserves so take action before you start shivering. This could be as simple as
Wear wicking layers and avoid heavy perspiration Inhale through pre-warming nose if possible, or cover mouth with loose bandana or balaclava.
Wind chill
Amplification of conduction and convection
Wear windproof clothing and get out of the wind
Water chill
Wet clothing extracts heat 240 times faster than dry clothing
Keep clothing dry by minimizing sweating, and change out of wet clothes as soon as possible
REI’s Ten Essentials webpage (http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/ten+essentials.html) Wikipedia article on hypothermia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypothermia). Complete Winter Sports Safety Manual by Bern Kreissman. Falcon Distribution; 1 edition (June 1997). AMC Guide to Winter Hiking & Camping by Lucas St. Clair and Yemaya Maurer (October 2008) October–December 8
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Lumber for the project had to be transported several miles by boat.
A large crew assembled to build the bridge.
The Hodenpyl Reroute John Heiam & Arlen Matson
T
he Grand Traverse Hiking Club maintains ninety miles of the North Country Trail in northwest lower Michigan. The southwestern ten miles of our section have seldom been used, because seven of those miles were on county roads. We had an opportunity to reroute several miles of that trail onto private property, but there were no scenic attractions to draw people to this area. The general location is west of the town of Mesick. Our two trail coordinators, Richard Naperala and Arlen Matson, envisioned a better idea; reroute the trail along Hodenpyl Pond (a seven mile long impoundment of the Manistee River) and continue up river on red pine forested land owned by Consumers Energy to an historical place called Glengary. They approached the landowners along the pond with the idea: Consumers Energy, under the leadership of Jim Bernier and Linda McIlarth, enthusiastically endorsed the reroute. They helped our chapter
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obtain approval from the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission, which was granted in May 2008. All the preliminary scouting and flagging had been done in 2007. In the latter part of 2007 and early 2008, we submitted a request for grants to both the National Park Service and
the North Country Trail Association. We divided the project into two phases. Phase one would take the trail from the existing Marilla Trailhead to the town of Sherman on M-37, a distance of about twelve miles. All but the last two miles would be on Consumers Energy property. Beginning in May,
The supporting logs were put into place on the first day and the remainder of the bridge was built on the second.
October–December 8
we scheduled workdays about once a week, and finished the trail building on October first, 1450 hours of volunteer labor later! Signage is being installed and more will go up upon certification of the new trail. We had to construct two major bridges, each with its own challenge. The first one had a span of thirty feet and was constructed by the staff at Northern Exposure Campground. The RV campground has about 250 sites, and is located adjacent to the new reroute. There is also a 40 unit primitive campground east of the RV sites. The second bridge had to span twenty-eight feet of water and fifty feet of muck. This bridge required moving 7 utility pole stringers, 10 utility pole sills, 100 pieces of decking, and 70 feet of boardwalk planking several miles to the bridge site. Using two fishing boats and an old battered aluminum canoe, we were able to float all the materials and tools to the bridge location a few miles away by water. We spent one day on site preparation and a second day actually building the bridge. Of course, this required transporting all 20 workers, tools, and equipment by the boats as well. Consumers Energy donated nine used utility poles 35-40 feet long, which were towed by the fishing boats. The balance of the materials for both bridges was supplied using an NCTA field grant, with permits from the DEQ. Now that phase one is complete, it is possible to hike twenty-two miles from Red Bridge to the town of Sherman and seldom lose sight of the Manistee River. After we finish phase two, hikers will be able to walk forty-five miles from Red Bridge to US 131 and be within sight of the Manistee River almost the entire way. We think this section of trail will become the premier hiking trail in Lower Michigan. While building the trail, many of our members were enchanted with the variety of wildflowers and the magnificent views afforded by the trail.
The new bridge is ready for hikers
A second bridge along the Hodenpyl trail.
Hikers from the Grand Traverse club enjoy the fruits of their labor taking a beautiful hike on a sunny fall day.
October–December 8
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MILESTONES
Partner Support
Along the North Country Trail Along the way to building the longest continuous hiking trail in the country, we pass many milestones. This page marks some that show our progress.
Trail Building Progress
The National Park Service certifies those completed miles that satisfy its certification standards. In addition, there are many more completed miles that may be enjoyable to hike but have not been certified for a variety of reasons. State New York Pennsylvania Ohio Michigan Wisconsin Minnesota North Dakota Totals
Potential Miles 625 265 1050 1150 200 375 475 4140
Miles Certified 276.8 138 352.9 620.6 117.5 117.6 225.6 1849
Percent Certified 44.3 52.1 33.6 54.0 58.8 31.4 47.5 44.7
Rank 5 3 6 2 1 7 4
State by State Membership
We work closely with several organizations where the NCT coincides with other trails. Many members generously support both the NCTA and these partners. Here is what we show for overlapping membership: Finger Lakes Trail Conference...................................... 106 Superior Hiking Trail Association.........................................92 Buckeye Trail Association.................................................84 Parks & Trails Council of Minnesota................................30 Keystone Trail Association.................................................21 NW Ohio Rails-to-Trails Assocication............................................... 17 Butler Outdoor Club.................................. 17 Kekekabic Trail Club.................................12 Rachel Carson Trails Conservancy.......................................5 Friends of the Jordan River National Fish Hatchery................................2
Membership in the NCTA demonstrates public support for the trail. Membership dues help fund activities that benefit the trail. Here’s how each state changed since last year. State by State Membership
Members Dec-07
Current Members
Change
% Change
North Dakota
75
93
18
24.0%
Minnesota
195
287
92
47.2%
Wisconsin
228
243
15
6.6%
Michigan
1159
1143
-16
-1.4%
Ohio
244
236
-8
-3.3%
Pennsylvania
236
231
-5
-2.1%
New York
226
249
23
10.2%
Other
163
219
56
34.4%
Total
2526
2701
175
6.9%
Most Volunteer Hours Al Larmann............................................... 8197 John Leinen............................................. 7711 Mary Kunzler-Larmann........................... 7367 William Coffin..........................................4838 Joan Young...............................................4630 Ron Rice...................................................4433 Irene Szabo.............................................. 4195 Gail Blakeley............................................3946
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Gaylord Yost.............................................3848 Werner Veit..............................................3836 Jerry Trout................................................3404 Dave Cornell............................................3343 Lynda Rummel........................................ 3231 Joe Dabes................................................ 3230 Arden C Johnson..................................... 3157
October–December 8
Fastest Growing Chapters 2008 Highest percentage growth among our chapters: Laurentian Lakes....................... 43.8% Itasca Moraine............................30.6% Sheyenne River Valley................ 27.1% Brule-St.Croix..............................19.1% NCT Hikers...................................15.6%
Volunteers on the Trail for 2008 Rick Adamson............................1409.75 Joyce Appel...................................... 1408 Al Larmann...................................1250.1 Mary Kunzler-Larmann...............1205.1 John Leinen.....................................1084 Kay Kujawa.........................................942 Stanley Kujawa..................................779 Doug Welker.......................................734 Keith Klos....................................... 699.7 John Heiam........................................ 655
Learning to Carry On Without Howard Irene Szabo
Howard Beye
T
he Finger Lakes Trail across upstate NY was started 46 years ago, and for nearly 25 of those years, Howard Beye was THE major volunteer for that organization. He had been a deeply involved trail chair, keeping track of map updates, organizing and training those who adopt portions of our 880-mile trail system, tracking volunteer hours for every one of them during an annual “census,” arranging Challenge Cost Share projects, and organizing every one of our three to four special work-week projects, the annual “Alley Cats,” and handling the majority of correspondence with the state agencies who host many miles of our trail. Until seven years ago, the entire office for the Finger Lakes Trail Conference had also been in his home for seventeen years, where he and his wife Dorothy filled map and T-shirt orders, answered phone and mail questions, and kept our early data base while performing all the normal office functions required! Needless to say, Howard and Dorothy received our highest award as a couple back in 1991, and subsequently the Howard Beye Lifetime Distinguished Service Award was created. He was only the second recipient of that rare honor. Once the North Country Trail started up and the FLT became part of that great dream, Howard jumped in with both feet, serving on the NCTA board many years and acting as the primary FLTC coordinator with various
NCT programs over the years. In 2001, his picture graced the cover of the North Star when he was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award. Obviously Howard exhibited incredible longterm dependability and dedication; those qualities coupled with his manic capacity for endless hours of detail work at his desk along with his unflagging enthusiasm for big Alley Cat projects like building bridges and log shelters made Howard that one-in-a-million volunteer who can never be replaced. In other words, it’s hard to imagine how the Finger Lakes Trail Conference would have grown up through its formative last few decades into the capable organization it is now without a super-volunteer like Howard. Thus it is crushingly difficult to imagine how we will fill his shoes. This past September during a Boy Scout troop meeting in his 50th year as a leader, he suffered a massive stroke and was dead within days. We had tried to prepare for Howard’s eventual second retirement, the one from FLT duties. After all, we opened an office and hired a part-time staff. Map production was moved to other volunteers, and a few of the trail management functions have gradually been assumed by others, relative “youngsters” maybe a decade younger than Howard’s 75. Every piece of equipment in his home trail office that belonged to the FLTC was marked thus, and we have moved all of the files, equipment, and oh, yes, the trail tools out of his house and garage. However, we simply do not know who will fill all the roles Howard played for so long. Several “jobs” have been identified and offered in the Winter edition of the FLT News, but as big as some of them are (Alley Cat Coordinator! Challenge Cost Share Planner!), we know these don’t cover everything Howard did or knew or just plain HANDLED. Those who worked with him on his last Alley Cat mere weeks before, rebuilding a shelter in the center of the state, are feeling the loss especially, after a week of work and comradeship in the woods with a man still apparently clicking on all cylinders. Funny how things happen that way sometimes...and cruel.
Harmon Strong’s Life of Service
Harmon Strong
W
ithin days of each other in September, we lost two longtime pillars at the eastern end of our volunteer forces, Harmon Strong and Howard Beye. Even at the age of 91, Harmon was conspicuous by his absence at this year’s annual conference, when he was honored with the Blue Blazes Benefactor award for his long term board service, ongoing financial advice, and steady contributions to the NCTA. His service in New York to the Finger Lakes Trail Conference was similar, and we know that he purchased annuities naming trail organizations, among others, as beneficiaries. When his good idea was publicized in the FLT News others were inspired to donate through life insurance policies, too. Harmon hiked into his eighties, using two poles to help his new knees along, and attended trail events through the 90th birthday party held for him in the fall of 2007 by the FLTC. Many of us learned new things about him at his memorial service; for instance, he spent time reading aloud to children at a local school, something they always looked forward to.
October–December 8
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Let’s not go out there alone! Accidents Happen FRED SZARKA National Park Service
Buddy Up! Last winter I began a series of articles dwelling on safety issues. I’d like to continue with probably the most important single thing you can do to be safe out there: always use what we used to call in the Boy Scouts “The Buddy System.” Joseph Clewley’s disappearance on the North Country NST near Tahquamenon Falls State Park this summer is one example of what can happen when hiking alone. Clewley went for a day hike with his dog in late July and never returned to his car. His dog reappeared at the family cabin many days later.
The North Country Trail is by and large a wild place where, if you are injured, become ill, or run into some other problem, help is not “just around the corner.” Hiking with a buddy (human, not canine) is simply smart. And doing trail maintenance solo is just plain asking for trouble.
We go out to clear trail with sharp implements like chainsaws, handsaws, and axes where one moment of inattention can lead to a cut or other injury. Yes, most of them are relatively minor, and we do provide safety equipment and first aid kits. You do wear the safety gear and take the first aid kit with you when doing trail maintenance, right? If you don’t want to carry that big kit, put the basics in a 1 qt. zipper freezer bag and tuck it in your daypack; always put it right up front where it is easy to find.
Plan Ahead
I know, I know, it doesn’t take two people to run the DR Mower. But mowing is not all that is needed to keep the trail in good shape. Why not combine the mowing with a buddy who is trimming overhanging brush with pruners and loppers? Or another person can touch up those blazes. Now we’ve got an extra buddy. Not all of these activities proceed at the same rate, so make it a point to check up on each other every 10 minutes or so, more frequently if one of you has a medical condition that warrants it.
Be Sure Someone Knows You Are On The Trail
In addition, make sure that when you and your buddy go out, someone else, not with you, knows where you plan to go and when you plan to return. Hiking or working in a park or forest, let the ranger know where and when you expect to finish, and where you plan to park. On private property, let the owner know. Or let the local Law Enforcement Department know that you will be on the trail and parked at the trailhead or access point should they see your vehicle, and again when you expect to return.
Friends Help In Many Ways
Even if you are just out walking for a little exercise, find a buddy to walk with. It makes the exercise more pleasant, will probably lead to more frequent walks, and allow you to share those neat little discoveries along the trail. And best of all, if you should turn an ankle or have some other mishap, they can assist you or go for help. Now go out and enjoy the North Country Trail and do it with a friend !
The Harrop House, NCTA’s New Ohio and Pennsylvania Regional Office Andrew Bashaw Regional Trail Coordinator Ohio/Pennsylvania
I
t’s time to hang up the bunny slippers and head to work at the Harrop House. After two and a half years of working from a home office, the Ohio and Pennsylvania Regional Office of the North Country Trail Association has found a home of its own in the Village of Shawnee, Ohio. Despite forcing our regional staff to look more respectable on a regular basis, this is great news for the NCTA and its partners: the Trail will have a public presence in a Trail Town in Appalachian Ohio. That’s right, Appalachia. Rugged terrain, oak/hickory forests, southern species of plants and animals, cornbread, spring greens,
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bluegrass music, a rich history centered around coal mining, and a southern drawl are all quite common here. And you thought explaining the “North Country” was tough in your landscape! Shawnee is just a few hundred yards off the NCNST, the Buckeye Trail, and the American Discovery Trail at Tecumseh Lake and surrounded by Wayne National Forest. By opening a public office here the NCTA is becoming part of larger efforts to redevelop this boom and bust coal mining town thanks to Shawnee Village, Sunday Creek Associates and others. Special thanks are due to Sunday Creek Associates who have made this move for the NCTA possible through their grant writing efforts. Having a physical office has potential benefits as a hiker and community resource, a space for all three Trail Associations for meetings, storage, etc., future Trail Town development, and of course publicity. The NCTA will be sharing the Harrop House with two other nonprofits, the Little Cities of the Forest Collaborative and the Ohio Hill Country Heritage Area, all together a hub of recreation, education, and natural and cultural heritage. Come visit the office when you are in the area. Calling ahead is a good idea if you are familiar with schedule of a Regional Trail Coordinator!
Government Agencies Meet with NCTA
to keep the lines of communication open
Members of the US Forest Service, the National Park Service and the North Country Trail Association gather in Lowell, MI. Mary Meehan Communications Manager
I
t takes a lot of coordination to get most things done within the sprawling agencies of the federal government. It’s often difficult to communicate within a single agency, let alone facilitate the intercommunication needed between two large agencies of the federal government and a volunteer organization comprised of more than 3000 members. Such was the thinking ten years ago when the National Park Service (NPS), the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) and the North Country Trail Association (NCTA) decided to meet annually to discuss progress toward the building, maintenance and promotion of the North Country National Scenic Trail--the longest of the National Scenic Trails. “Triad puts a lot of issues on the table, requiring partnership efforts to get the job done. The NCTA is glad to host this year’s Triad in Lowell, our national headquarters,” explained Bruce Matthews, executive director. On October 5, 2008, more than fifty representatives from NCTA, NPS and USFS met in Lowell at the 10th annual Triad meeting. This is the first time the meeting has been held in Lowell. Representatives were present from each of the states hosting the trail—New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and North Dakota—as well as USFS staff from eight of the nine national forests through which the Trail passes and the four staff members of the NPS. The morning began at the Troop 102 Boy Scout cabin on North Washington St., with a hearty welcome from Liz Baker, executive director of the Lowell Chamber of Commerce, Lowell mayor pro tem Jim Hodges and city manager David Pasquale, who shared their vision about Lowell’s emerging role as a Trail Town. “Hiking draws a lot of people. It’s good for the community, good for commerce and great exercise,” Pasquale said. Updates on what was happening at an organizational level were given by Bruce Matthews, who talked about the possibility of adding three new chapters along the length of the trail
and two new affiliate organizations from Ohio, the Maumee Valley Heritage Coalition and the Miami-Erie Canal Corridor Association. In addition, Matthews shared good news about increasing NCTA membership. For the National Park Service, Tom Gilbert talked about the progress being made to extend the trail eastward to connect with the Appalachian Trial in Vermont. He also expressed continued interest in making westward connections as part of a Sea-to-Sea route. John Romanowski of the US Forest Service shared the good news that the Sturgeon River Gorge in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where several miles of the NTC exist, was recently acquired from a Wisconsin paper company. He also shared the difficulties his agency is experiencing as a result of decreased funding. In early afternoon, the group visited the NCTA office at 229 East Main where they were able to purchase trail gear and talk with NCTA staff. The group then viewed the next local section of the trail to be completed, which is the Lowell to Elmdale corridor. Currently, the project is awaiting approval from the state to begin construction. Because of complicated land rights, this project is awaiting final approval from the Attorney General. Since the rain had cleared up, the rest of the day was spent hiking in the Lowell State Game area. “The proposed corridor sounds fabulous and will serve as a blueprint for other areas. It appears that Lowell has exactly what it needs to promote the trail and the town. They have a great looking downtown area, the river boat, the office, and there will be easy access to the trail,” said Kay Kujawa of the Hiawatha Shore-to-Shore Chapter. After hiking, the group went by bus to The Shack, a charming lodge in White Cloud, where they spent the night. The next day the meetings and trainings were continued at The Shack. Andrew Bashaw, regional trail coordinator for Ohio/ Pennsylvania, shared information about a study and work-group he is developing to work toward discouraging the illegal uses of the trail, primarily those caused by off highway vehicles (OHV). “We all know there are policies, but we’re looking for a forum between the people who actually put the policies on the ground,” said Bashaw. The group visited the Schoolhouse near White Cloud where the North Country Trail Association had its earliest beginnings. After a meeting discussing the future of Triad, the group did what they most enjoy—hiking. “Our Wednesday hike in the Lowell State Game area was beautiful. The colors on the trees were great and the trail provided a nice cross-sectional view of many different environments. Nice overlook onto the Flat River, too. I also enjoyed the hike into the wildflower wilderness area on Thursday. As this area gets fully developed with the interpretive signage, it should attract many visitors and hopefully get some of them interested in the NCT,” said Lorana Jinkerson, president of the North Country Trail Hikers Chapter in Marquette, Michigan. The Schoolhouse is managed by the West Michigan Chapter, the oldest and largest of the 35 NCTA chapters. Triad closed with a delightful cookout dinner prepared by the West Michigan Chapter, complete with member grown salad and hot apple crisp. “We really appreciate the welcome shown by the West Michigan Chapter in making this event successful. We’re truly blessed to work with the volunteers we have. The dinner, like so many other things, was truly a labor of love,” said Matthews. October–December 8
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Who’s Who Along the North Country Trail? If you have questions about the North Country Trail, there are many different places to go for information. This directory provides you with key contacts.
1
1 2 3
When in Doubt, Try NCTA Headquarters: If you’re not sure whom to contact, or prefer to talk with our office instead of contacting a volunteer at home, your best bet is to connect with the NCTA’s National Office. If we can’t help you, we’ll be able to put you in touch with someone who can. Staff members are listed on page 3 (table of contents page). North Country Trail Association 229 E Main St, Lowell, MI 49331 Toll-free: (866) HikeNCT Fax: (616) 897-6605 www.northcountrytrail.org HQ@northcountrytrail.org Visit our web site; it’s a sure bet that you’ll find most of what you need. Here you can join or contribute to the NCTA, browse the events calendar, explore NCTA Chapter pages, purchase maps and trail-related products, follow links to Partner organizations, read up-to-date news items, report volunteer hours, and, of course, learn more about the trail itself!
National Park Service: The NPS office in Madison is an excellent
technical resource for volunteers, agencies, partner organizations, and the media. As our official trail administrator, the NPS sets trail standards, determines the trail route, and provides the overall vision for the trail. 700 Rayovac Drive, Suite 100, Madison, WI 53711 (608) 441-5610 Fax: (608) 441-5606 Tom Gilbert, Superintendent: tom_gilbert@nps.gov Fred Szarka, Trail Manager: fredrick_szarka@nps.gov Ken Howell, Land Protection Specialist: ken_howell@nps.gov NCTA Chapters: For information about local activities or volunteering, contact the Chapter representative for your area of interest. We have more than two dozen local volunteer trail clubs scattered along the trail that are Chapters of the NCTA. NCTA members can affiliate themselves with any Chapter they’d like. Whether or not the member volunteers, a portion of their dues will help support Chapter activities. Chapters build and maintain trail, host hikes and other events, and work to promote the trail and the Association in their areas.
Affiliate Organizations: The NCTA enters into affiliate
agreements with other organizations who envision the completed trail. Trail Maintaining Affiliates are independent organizations who also work to build, maintain, and promote sections of the trail. Supporting Affiliates are independent organizations who work with us to help fulfill our Mission, but are not responsible for a specific section of trail. Each has its own membership program, so we encourage NCTA members to support them as well. If you have questions about a section of trail that is managed by one of these organizations, your best bet is to contact our Affiliates directly.
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October–December 8
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NORTH DAKOTA
1. Lonetree Chapter Kim Moen • (701)324-2000 office kim@harveynd.com 2. Sheyenne River Valley Chapter Deb Koepplin • dkoepplin@msn.com 3. North Dakota Prairie Grasslands Chapter Ron Saeger • (701)232-1612 • msaeger@cableone.net
MINNESOTA
4. Star of the North Chapter Brian Pavek • pavekb@comcast.net 5. Laurentian Lakes Chapter Ray Vlasak • (218)573-3243 • highpines@arvig.net 6. Itasca Moraine Chapter Carter Hedeen • (218)732-9226 • hedeencf@wcta.net 7. Kekekabic Trail Club (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Martin Kubik • info@kek.org 8. Border Trail Route Association (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): John Elliott • (612)829-5142 info@borderroutetrail.org 9. Superior Hiking Trail Association (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Gayle Coyer • (218)834-2700 • hike@shta.org
GREAT LAKES
10. Brule-St.Croix Chapter David Zosel • zosel@centurytel.net 11. Chequamegon Chapter Marty Swank • (715)682-2254 marty808@centurytel.net 12. Heritage Chapter Gaylord Yost • gaylyost@aol.com 13. Peter Wolfe Chapter Doug Welker • (906)338-2680 • dwelker@up.net 14. North Country Trail Hikers Chapter Lorana Jinkerson • ljinkers@nmu.edu 15. Grand Marais Chapter Steve Miller • bluelatitude@jamadots.com 16. Hiawatha Shore-to-Shore Chapter Kay Kujawa • kay1940@lighthouse.net
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10 11 12 10 9 8
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14 12 13 11
LEGEND Chapters Partners Not Yet Adopted
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18 21 19 22 LOWER MICHIGAN
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17. Harbor Springs Chapter 22 25 Jerry Keeney • (231)526-9597 keeney10@charter.net 18. Tittabawassee Chapter Gary Johnson • (989)842-3478 gwj2@charter.net Friends of the Jordan River National Fish Hatchery (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): 26 (231)584-2461 www.fws.gov/midwest/jordanriver/friends 19. Grand Traverse Hiking Club Chapter John Heiam • (231)938-9655 • johnheiam@charter.net 20. Spirit of the Woods Chapter Joan Young • (231)757-2205 • jhy@t-one.net 21. Western Michigan Chapter Werner Veit • (616)776-1630 • wv12@aol.com 22. Chief Noonday Chapter Larry Hawkins • (269)945-5398 hawkeyemd@cablespeed.com 23. Chief Baw Beese Chapter Ryan Bowles • bowlesr@msu.edu
OHIO
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24. NW Ohio Rails-to-Trails Association (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Tom Duvendack • (419)822-4788 tduvendack@earthlink.net 25. Buckeye Trail Association (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Garry Dill • (614)451-0223 • gdill@columbus.rr.com 26. Adams County Chapter John Johnson • (937)544-7248 • jtjson@aol.com 27. Ohio Valley Chapter Ryan Smith • (740)374-5666 • rsmith365@hotmail.com 28. Great Trail-Sandy Beaver Canal Chapter Brad Bosley • (330)227-2432 • bbosley@cceng.org
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32 26 31 30 23 24 29
27 26 PENNSYLVANIA
Butler Outdoor Club (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Joyce Appel • (724)526-5407 • joyceappel@windstream.net 29. Wampum Chapter Joan Christy • jechristy@verizon.net 30. Butler Chapter Dan Mourer • (724)445-3315 • mamourer@embarqmail.com 31. Clarion County Chapter Ed Scurry • EDSDC85@yahoo.com 32. Rachel Carson Trails Conservancy (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Patty Brunner • (724)325-3224 • info@rachelcarsontrails.org 33. Allegheny National Forest Chapter Keith Klos • (814)484-7420 • klos@westpa.net
NEW YORK
34. Finger Lakes Trail Conference (Trail Maintaining Affiliate): Gene Bavis • (585) 658-9320 information@fingerlakestrail.org Additional Maintaining Organizations Coordinated by FLTC: Adirondack Mountain Club (ADK), ADK-Genesee Valley Chapter, ADK-Onondaga Chapter, Cayuga Trails Club, Foothills Trail Club, Genesee Valley Hiking Club, and Hammondsport Boy Scout Troop 18 35. Central New York Chapter: Kathy Woodruff • (315) 697-7017 kwoodruff001@twcny.rr.com October–December 8
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HIKING SHORTS The Grandkids Come To Michigan’s UP MICHIGAN - My name is Marisa,
and I am thirteen years old. My nana is the Vice President of her local chapter of the North Country National Scenic Trail. I live in the city, but every summer I go up north to visit
Last summer, we went camping at Tahquamenon Falls. My brother and I helped reroute a section of the trail. Later a work crew built a switch back and rerouted the trail where we had flagged. After, we went picking blueberries by Culhane Lake. The next day we took a ride out to Crisp Point Lighthouse. My brother, grandparents, and I had a small fire on the beach. We roasted hot dogs. There are many unique and colorful rocks scattered over the beach. We picked a few to take back home with us as mementos of our excursion. I really enjoy my summers with my grandparents and hope you find hiking on the North Country National Scenic Trail as much fun as I do because it never matters how old you are if you’re connecting with the beautiful outdoors. Shared by proud grandparents: — Kay and Stan Kujawa
Grand Traverse Hiking Club Chapter MICHIGAN - Suttons Bay: Last night,
Marilyn Chadwick with Kujawa grandchildren Jacob and Marisa, painting blazes and other things at Michigan Welcome Center at St. Ignace. The kids stuck with it all day and were rewarded with lunch at Clyde’s, local drivein that serves hamburgers in paper classic cars.
my grandparents. While I’m there, we always have a lot of fun hiking the trail with other members of the group or just by ourselves. Two summers ago, her Hiawatha Shore-to-Shore Chapter made a new path by the St. Ignace Welcome Center to connect to another route and to get it away from the dog run. I had a blast. There were some curious stares as my Jaja (grandpa), brother, and I dug out the old NCT sign to put it by our new trail, and again when my Jaja carried his chainsaw into the woods to clear the new tread.
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The North Star
at a dinner event at Black Star Farms, the officials of Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation (TART) Trails awarded the 5th annual Jim Mudgett Trail Pioneer Award. The award was presented to Dick Naperala by past recipient Tim Brick.
Dick Naperala, holding the award, with Karen Mudgett.
Dick Naperala, a founding member of the Grand Traverse Hiking Club, has been a leader in the development and maintenance of 90 miles of hiking trails in northwest Michigan for over 15 years. He worked
October–December 8
with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources (MDNR) to re-route the North Country Trail off of the Shore-to-Shore Horse trail to connect Muncie Lakes Pathway with the Sand Lakes Quiet Area. After working for years on a proposal to the MDNR, Dick recently received permission to establish a trail to connect the Vasa Pathway with Sand Lakes and the North Country Trail, along with a link to the Kalkaska area trail system. This will complete a continuous non-motorized trail from Traverse City to Kalkaska, with North Country Trail connections to New York and North Dakota! Fellow hiking club enthusiasts gushed over Dick’s dedication to the North Country Trail and said “he spent hundreds of hours in the woods scouting potential routes.” Less known to most, Dick spends a lot of time behind the wheel of ski grooming equipment when the snow flies. He is one of the members of the TART Trails grooming crew who works many early mornings preparing the Vasa Pathway for cross-country skiing. One of the quotes from a nomination letter said it best, “It is true that countless other people were involved in the work of building these trails, but without Dick’s inspiration and leadership it would not have happened.” Dick Naperala has been a positive force in our area over the years by visioning trails that connect people to the great outdoors to experience nature and receive an enlightening recreation experience. “Dick has displayed the work ethic, character, integrity and dedication to this community and that should be recognized and honored. He is an incredibly worthy recipient and I’m proud that he has won the award this year.” —Bob Otwell, TART Trails Executive Director. The Jim Mudgett Award was created to honor and pay tribute to individuals who have shown leadership and passion for our local trails. The award is given annually at TART’s Octoberfest dinner party.
Cherry Run Suspension Bridge A new bridge crosses Cherry Run in Pennsylvania.
Steps lead to the bridge platform.
T
Karen Klos
he Baker Trail carries the North Country Trail southward from Allegheny National Forest in Pennsylvania, and in a segment tended by the Rachel Carson Trails Conservancy, there has long been a need for a bridge across Cherry Run near Crooked Creek Lake. Previously the trail went right through the creek, normally about a foot deep, and sometimes flooding to over six! Two other bridges had been located there but each was washed out by hurricane waters. This new suspension bridge design was to be six feet higher than the previous bridges, and flexible to withstand a small amount of water pressure. The bridge was designed and built by the President of the NCTA Chapter in the Allegheny National Forest, Keith W. Klos. Keith constructed the bridge at home then transported the pieces to the site along an old road. The upright posts were set in concrete on June 14th, 2008,
More than 500 volunteer hours were spent building the suspension bridge.
and the concrete allowed to cure until July 28th,when the cables and stairs were erected. 235 bags of Sakrete were used for the foundations, 4 strands of 5/8” cables were strung between the posts with anchor points 20 foot behind the posts. On August 2nd the decking sections were hoisted and set into place using trolley strung on an overhead cable. U-bolts were used to secure the decking to the lower cables. 36 support cables were then strung to the upper 5/8” cables. On August 3rd railings were bolted to these support cables with a top handrail, a middle rail and bottom, kick rail. This was funded by the Rachel Carson Trails Conservancy and the work was performed by a network of volunteers from the Baker Trail, North Country Trail and Butler Outdoor Club, totalling over 500 volunteer hours. This bridge is on U.S. Army Corps of Engineers land, whose permission was readily granted. October–December 8
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Happy trails to you. Our eight newspapers across Michigan cover the great outdoors, including the best nature walks, day hikes and overnight backpacking trips. Read us, then find a slice of heaven of your own on foot. Booth Newspapers: The Ann Arbor News, The Bay City Times, The Flint Journal, The Grand Rapids Press, The Jackson Citizen Patriot, The Kalamazoo Gazette, The Muskegon Chronicle and The Saginaw News. LV19892
NONPROFIT U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
North Country Trail Association 229 East Main Street Lowell, Michigan 49331
Grand Rapids, MI Permit 340