Crayfish Craze

PICTURE AUGUST IN SWEDEN and everywhere you look will be crayfish— crayfish garlands, people wearing crayfish hats and bibs, and the most glorious sight of all, heaping platters of freshly boiled crayfish waiting to be devoured. Warm up your vocal chords, don your bib, and grab a shot of akvavit, because it’s kräftskiva season!

Kräftskiva, Sweden’s famous annual seafood celebration, literally means “crayfish party,” and traditionally takes place during the month of August. This longtime Swedish tradition sees friends and family gathering outside to eat massive

by Caroline Parry, Grants and Giving Coordinator

platters of crayfish and sing drinking songs late into the night.

The history of the Swedish crayfish party dates back as early as the sixteenth century, where it originated as a special occasion reserved for aristocracy. In the late nineteenth century, crayfish became rare in Sweden due to increased exports of the shellfish. The Swedish government imposed laws limiting crayfish catching to just two months a year—August and September—thus launching a country wide celebration of crayfish season. By the twentieth century, crayfish had become a national delicacy, with all levels of society participating in a monthly celebration of the special shellfish.

The name “kräftskiva” was coined in the 1930s, and the term was likely derived from the nineteenth century bourgeois crayfish ritual of kräftsupa, which involved the consumption of crayfish and alcoholic drinks.

While the restrictions on fishing and selling crayfish were lifted in Sweden in 1994 (making crayfish available beyond September), the tradition of celebrating crayfish season in August remains.

Not able to make it to Sweden this August? Don’t worry—Swedish-born chef Malin Jonsson of Borgstrom Catering shares some insider tips and recipes below to ensure your crayfish gathering is a success.

It wouldn’t be a proper kräftskiva without crayfish-adorned decorations. Colorful paper hats, bibs, and paper lanterns— all featuring images of the crustacean of honor—are a must-have for any crayfish party. These party supplies are readily available in Sweden in any grocery store: in the United States revelers can find printable hat templates online to make their decorations or seek out IKEA’s crayfish party pack for specially-made decorations.

Of course, it’s not a crayfish party without crayfish on the menu. But what else should be served alongside the gastro-guest of honor? “(Y)ou can serve a chanterelle quiche with a side salad, baguette bread, and a cheese platter as a starter or as a main,” says Chef Malin. “It really doesn’t matter in which order you eat the two dishes. Some guests prefer one over the other. A toast with a large heap of butter-sautéed chanterelles is also a classic starter. Dessert is usually some kind of apple or berry crisp or crumble with vanilla custard sauce.”

Hot tip for guests who prefer meat on the menu—during her time in Seattle, Chef Malin has added doublemarinated pork tenderloin with a side of French potato salad to her kräftskiva menu. This ensures the meat-lovers at your table are happy and provides plenty of options for everyone.

Typically, crayfish are boiled in water mixed with salt and sugar, which is often spiked with ale and crown dill. The crayfish turn from black to red when cooked. They are served piled high on large platters and eaten cold.

Västerbotten Pai (Swedish Cheese Pie), chanterelle quiche, salad, boiled potatoes, and bread are all popular side dishes.

Cold beer and akvavit (don’t forget the shot glasses!) are a staple at any crayfish party. Wine, while not unheard of, is not traditionally part of the menu, and Chef Malin voices a strong preference against it. She also suggests plenty of soda and water for the designated drivers and younger guests.

Almost as important as the crayfish themselves, drinking songs are an essential part of any crayfish celebration. Oftentimes guests are provided with a printed songbook containing the lyrics to classic Swedish tunes. As the evening progresses, different guests will take turns leading the group in song; each song followed by a toast, typically with cold beer or aquavit.

Helan går, courtesy of Swedish Women’s Educational Association, Seattle. (This is the most well-known nubbesong and is even heard in Swedish preschools!)

SWEDISH:

Helan går

Sjung hopp fadderallan lallan lej

Helan går

Sjung hopp fadderallan lej

För hon som inte helan tar

Hon heller inte halvan får

Helan går (drink)

Sjung hopp fadderallan lej

ENGLISH:

Here’s the first

Sing “hup fol-de-rol la la la la”

Here’s the first

Sing “hup fol-de-rol la la”

He who doesn’t drink the first

Shall never, ever quench his thirst (drink)

Sing “hup fol-de-rol la la”

courtesy of Chef Malin Jonsson

For approximately 50–70 crayfish

2.6 gallons [10 liters] water

1¾ cups [350 grams] kosher salt

2 tablespoons [30 grams] sugar

15 lbs crayfish

Combine the water, salt, and sugar in a pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Add a bunch of pickling dill, then add crayfish and simmer until they turn bright orange/ red (approximately twenty minutes.) Let the crayfish cool in the brine.

Refrigerate to keep crayfish cool and serve within two days, garnished with additional dill crowns.

Kräftskiva—Crayfish party

Snapsvisor—Drinking songs

Lykta—Lantern

Servetter—Napkins

Kräftklo—Crayfish claw

Nubbe—Schnapps