Wild and Free

by Rachel Ballister, Membership and Database Coordinator

Move over hygge, friluftsliv is this year’s Nordic “it” word. From articles in National Geographic, editorials in the BBC, and in major news outlets alike, friluftsliv is the most recent Nordic word to make its way across the Atlantic to be stumbled over by American reporters. But what is friluftsliv, and why is it important to the Nordics?

The Norwegian term friluftsliv—an amalgam of the words free, air, and life— perfectly describes the importance of outdoor living celebrated by the Nordic peoples. The first known use of the term is found in the Norwegian poet Henrik Ibsen’s On the Heights, written in 1859. Ibsen himself found an appreciation of nature growing up in Skien, Norway, as well as a distaste for societal norms. Although Ibsen was expected to follow in his father’s footsteps as a pharmacist, he pursued writing. Considered to be partially autobiographical, On the Heights’ protagonist chooses to live freely in nature, apart from the village he grew up in; just as Ibsen chose to find his own freedom as a poet.

The use of friluftsliv in On the Heights signifies a physical and spiritual connection to nature. Today, that same connection can be experienced during something as simple as a walk in nature, or by something as extreme as free diving or ice fishing. Friluftsliv can be found on foot or with skis, in rain or in shine, alone or with friends or family. Friluftsliv is such an important part of the Nordic way of life that the Nordic countries even have policies that encourage their citizens to enjoy the outdoors. Norway’s allemannsretten, for example, allows individuals the right to access all uncultivated land so that they can be free to hike, camp, and enjoy the Norwegian landscape unencumbered.

Leslie Anderson, Director of Collections, Exhibitions, and Programs at the National Nordic Museum, impresses the importance of historical context. “Friluftsliv gained currency during a period of industrialization and the shifting notions of one’s relationship to the countryside. Outdoor recreation became increasingly popular, taking hold as cultural identity coalesced around place. Friluftsliv is understood as a fundamental right for all people.”

Throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, many people have turned to the outdoors for both their physical and mental wellbeing. Per public safety, outdoor dining is preferable to indoor dining, limited outdoor social interactions are preferable to indoor social gatherings, outdoor and drivein theaters are preferable to indoor cinemas. People are being encouraged to spend time outdoors in ways they might not have been before. Petra Hilleberg, CEO of the Hilleberg Group and President of Hilleberg AB in Sweden and Hilleberg, Inc. in the US, as well as Honorary Consul of Sweden, has recognized a significant increase in outdoor living. She says, “People in the Nordics and especially Sweden have never been out as much as they are now during COVID. It is clearly shown in sales of outdoor products— including tents. People are encouraged to be outdoors and we have seen a huge increase.”

As Americans and Nordics continue to increase their time spent outdoors in nature, it is vitally important to remember to care for those spaces. Hilleberg contends that the increased appreciation of the out- doors is overall good, however, “there have been some negative drawbacks with some very heavy use of some areas . . . and some people who have not taken care of nature as well as one would expect and hope.” When camping, hiking, or otherwise spending time in nature, minimum impact practices should be used to ensure the outdoors are left pristine. The Center for Outdoor Ethics’ “Leave No Trace Seven Principles,” which can be applied to almost all outdoor activities, include easy steps for all to practice. These seven principles are: plan ahead and prepare, travel and camp on durable surfaces, dispose of waste properly, leave what you find, minimize campfire impacts, respect wildlife, and be considerate of other visitors.

One of the important tenants of friluftsliv is that the outdoors can be enjoyed by everyone—no matter their age, activity level, or athletic skill. Gardening, walking a dog, and strolling around the block are all low-impact ways to enjoy nature and live friluftsliv. Friluftsliv does not require intense activity or training, nor does it require special equipment or skill: the only requirements to practice friluftsliv are fresh air and nature.

More information on The Center for Outdoor Ethics’ principles can be found at lnt.org

“I den øde sæterstue al min rige fangst jeg sanker; der er krak og der er grue, friluftsliv for mine tanker.”

“In the lonely mountain farm; My abundant catch I take. There is a hearth, and table; and friluftsliv for my thoughts.”

by Caroline Parry, Grants and Giving Coordinator

As consumers have shown increased interest in sustainability and resource conservation in recent years, the fashion industry has been criticized for its harmful environmental impact. Fast fashion—an industry that relies on cheap manufacturing processes and short-lived garments—continues to grow, as does the level of chemical pollution it produces and its excessive use of natural resources. Fashion is the second-most polluting industry worldwide (second only to the oil industry), with fashion brands producing more than twice the amount of pollution they did in 2000. This level of production creates over ninety-two million tons of waste and consumes seventy-nine trillion liters of water annually.

Environmental activists worldwide have called for change from the fashion industry, urging businesses to decrease manufactur- ing and to introduce sustainable practices throughout their supply chain. In response, use of recycled materials has become increasingly promoted by fashion brands over the last five years. However, the use of recycled textiles as a raw materials source is still widely under-utilized, for several reasons. One major challenge in achieving 100 percent sustainable fashion is the process of recycling old clothing. Clothing textiles can be deconstructed to create new fabric. But due to the worn nature of the materials being recycled, new cotton fibers must be spun into each batch of cloth, making it impossible to produce completely recycled textiles. Most major fashion brands that sell recycled clothing today rely on blending new and old fibers in order to produce a new, high-quality product.

This is where a fashion initiative out of Finland has made impressive strides. The

Re-Looping Fashion Initiative (TEKI) was launched in 2015 and has spent the last few years completing a pilot program with the goal of creating a truly sustainable method for fashion production. TEKI began its study at a critical time: currently Finland’s textile usage is more than 28 pounds (13 kilograms) per capita annually. In 2012, at least 154 million pounds (70 million kilograms) of textiles were discarded in Finland, of which only one fifth was collected and sorted for recycling. That means over 123 million pounds of textiles were sent to the landfill.

The TEKI pilot program focused on modelling the potential of a closed circular ecosystem to reduce waste and increase durability of recycled textiles. Run out of a closed fiber mill in Valkeakoski, Finland, the pilot program was launched with the goal of creating the first industrial-scale closed-loop post-consumer recycling system for cotton. The project also included a study of consumer habits to gauge consumer interest in purchasing clothing produced by the re-looping method of recycling.

The Re-Looping Fashion Initiative’s pilot program gained prominence for its invention of the “re-looping” method, a new process to recycle cotton that not only maintains the quality of the fibers when recycled, but actually strengthens the fiber, creating a limitless “loop” of recycling possible. This new process does not require the addition of new material and does not create any hazardous biproducts. This is a particularly substantial accomplishment as the global textile industry currently produces approximately 8–10 percent of global CO2 emissions, 20 percent of industrial water pollution, and consumes seventy-nine trillion liters of water per year. The re-looping (or closed-loop) process uses a cellulose dissolution technique developed by the VTT Technical Research Center of Finland Ltd. And according to their data, the quality of the resulting recycled fabric is even better than virgin cotton. Ali Harlin, Research Professor at VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, emphasizes the revolutionary capacity of this new system to reduce the levels of waste perpetuated by the fashion industry. “This revolutionary process is the first time that post-consumer textile waste has been used on an industrial scale to make high quality fiber—and all without the need for any harmful chemicals.”

With the long-term goal of expanding their closed-loop method to an industrial scale, the Re-Looping Fashion Initiative is participant in the production of clothing using the closed-loop method. Luukko emphasizes the importance of fashion and textile companies being at the forefront of sustainable fashion innovations and practices, saying working with organizations from all stages of the fashion industry, including leaders in Nordic fashion, innovation, and sustainability sectors. Project contributors include Finnish textile rental company, Lindström; Seppälä, a Finnish fashion chain; SUEZ, an environmental services and solutions company; Touchpoint, a Finnish provider in sustainably-made workwear; and VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland Ltd, a leading technology and research company in Finland. The project is supported by Tekes—the Finnish Funding Agency for Innovation’s Green Growth program.

As a responsible and sustainable company, we have the obligation to develop new, innovative solutions towards a more circular textile industry. Every year millions of tons of textiles are wasted and disposed, instead of utilizing its value as new raw materials. We focus on closing the loop for our workwear customers: designing and developing garments that are easier to recycle, producing them from recycled materials fabrics and finally at the end of their lifecycles, turning them into raw materials to be used in various applications and end products in different industries.

Outi Luukko, CEO of Touchpoint, is an advocate for sustainable fashion, and a

The Re-Looping Fashion Initiative is transforming the way people recycle clothing, and in the process demands change from the harmful system of global fashion consumption and production. Change is also required of consumers, who recent studies show buy increasing amounts of cheaply produced, inexpensive clothing, adding to the vicious production cycle of fast fashion. For individuals, sustainability begins by decreasing the purchase of new clothing and by increasing awareness of the environmental impact of the sources one does buy from. Purchasing new clothing from companies that participate in The Re-Looping Fashion Initiative or similar closed-loop processes can be a great start to curating a more ethical and sustainable wardrobe. In making a commitment to sustainable shopping practices, consumers help save water and reduce waste—meaning buyers look good and feel good. Fast fashion? It’s so last season.

Learn more about the Re-Looping Fashion Initiative at reloopingfashion.org

Caroline Parry is the Grants and Giving Coordinator at the National Nordic Museum. She has an MA in art history from the University of Oregon, and a BA in English and Studio Art from Lawrence University.