Noble Companions Topaz Von Noble At 6 weeks
New German Shepherd Puppy Handbook
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C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S ! We believe you have just added a wonderful companion and loyal protector to your family! You are just beginning a new life for you and your new puppy. This new life that you share will be fun most of the time, and sometimes challenging, but I would like you to know that I am available with for any issues, good and bad that will come. In this handbook, I’ve tried to give you lots of resources, tips and advice, as well as listing some of my favorite resources for supplies, books, and training facilities. Please take some time to read through it, and let me know if I can help make this new phase of your life a happy and healthy one! You can always count of me to try to answer any questions, celebrate your victories (whether it’s successful house training or attaining a title!) and sharing your joys and concerns.
Noble Companions 719-884-1125 noble_companions@yahoo.com Facebook: Noble Companions 2
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S 1. Your Puppy’s History………………. 2. Your Puppy’s Pedigree……………… 3. Puppy Supplies………………………. 4. Your Puppy’s New Home…………… 5. Your Puppy’s Schedule……………… 6. House Training………………………. 7. General Training……………………. 8. Puppy Obedience and Socialization.. 9. Grooming……………………………. 10. English/German/Czech Commands.. 11. Resources……………………………. 12. Recommended Books & Videos……. 13. Your Puppy’s Vet / Free Health Exam 14. Sources………………………………..
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Y O U R P U P P Y ’ S H I S TO RY The beginning of the modern German Shepherd The history of the German Shepherd was about to truly begin in 1889, when the Captain Max von Stephanitz appeared on the scene. A wealthy German, von Stephanitz was born in the Kingdom of Saxony, in Dresden, to an upper-class Germany family. While von Stephanitz made his career in the Germany cavalry, his true interest was in animals; he served at the Veterinary College in Berlin, and upon his release from the captainship in 1898 began devoting himself full-time to dog breeding, influenced by similar movements going on across the Channel in England. Von Stephanitz saw the potential inherent in standardizing the German Shepherd breed across Germany, selecting for the most desirable traits in each regional group of dogs and ultimately creating an “ideal” breed that combined the best elements in each. He sought to create a dog that was as keenly intelligent as its lupine ancestor, with pricked ears that would allow it to hear the coming of intruders, a keen and refined sense of smell, and a strong work ethic, traits ironically seen in today's modern German Shepherd. Such a dog caught von Stephanitz's eye shortly afterwards, at a dog show in the town of Karlsruhe. There he came across the embodiment of his ideal – a wolf like dog with speckled yellow and gray fur, a powerful gaze, and a strong demeanor that bore traces of the primal animal within. The dog was intelligent – easily trained in the skills necessary for a sheepherder. Von Stephanitz knew that he had found his ideal for the breed. He purchased the dog, Hektor Linksrhein, shortly thereafter, choosing to rename the creature Horand von Grafrath. Von Stephanitz then registered the dog, rendering it the first officially registered German Shepherd in the world! Von 4
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Stephanitz used this dog as his main “stud� - breeding Horand with a variety of bitches to create litters of offspring, hoping to create pups that were the model of their proud, noble father. To further his ends, Von Stephanitz founded the German Shepherd Dog Club (in German, the Verein fur Deutsche Schferhunde, also known as the SV), of which he became president, and shortly thereafter was successful in creating a standardized German shepherd breed.
What does Czech/DDR Bloodlines Mean? The popularity of the German Shepherd Dog (GSD) had been growing in numbers since their origin by founder Rittmeister Max von Stephanitz. Little did anyone know what an impact both World Wars would impart on the German Shepherd breed. The German Shepherd was much sought after by the military for their profound working abilities, loyalty , trainability, and their dedication to their owners or handlers. One of the greatest impacts to astound the working dog world and the German Shepherd breed was the onset of the Cold War. Before the onset of the Cold War, Germany was one nation. Great Britain, France, The Soviet Union, and the USA were allies during World War II. As World War II was coming to an end, all 4 Allies occupied Berlin. At the end of World War II, the city was split into 4 sectors. A large dispute arose over the boundaries. Thus began the Cold War with the Soviet Union closing borders; hence the two nations for Germany were formed, West Germany and East Germany ( Deutsches Demokratische Republik the DDR ). Many of us remember what communist controlled countries were like. They were not allowed free trade or contact with the outside world and were dominated by their government over 5
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decisions most of us take for granted everyday. So was it also for the breeding kennels in East Germany. With the border and Berlin Wall up, closed breeding within the DDR kennels kept the dogs at their standards without outside influence. Germany now divided became a satellite state of the communist regime on October 7th, 1949, East Germany is now officially the Deutsches Demokratische Republik - DDR. It didn’t take long for “The Partei” to quickly confiscate and gain control of the German Shepherd pedigree registration and financial administration offices. With the government’s hand and control over breeding and registration, strong criteria and tests were set forth as many of the dogs would be used for their military purposes. Consequently only the best of the best would be suitable for their new duties. Strong bones were needed for the great distances of walking they would endure, exposure to the most ruthless of harsh elements also played a part in the development of structure. Thus they were very athletic with straight lines and a large intimidating look with large heads, broad shoulders and large chests. Other breeding criteria that differed from West Germany was the DDR dogs could only be bred if they were completely free of HD. Dogs that had “fast normal hips or lesser could not be bred. Dam’s had to appear with her whole litter for an inspection of teeth, ear set, temperament, coat, total overall appearance and males naturally had to have both testicles descended by one year of age. Major differences in the working abilities skills tests included a straight wall of 1.5 meters and 1.8 meters instead of the inclined wall now used. They also had to go walk a balance beam, 10 blinds to search instead of 6, the tracking tests include more corners and angles; the FH 3 contained 16!
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Along comes Czechoslovakia 1955-- The Z Pohranicni Straze The kennel Z Pohranicni straze (Z PS) was founded in the year 1955 for the single purpose of production and training of dogs that would be solely used for the protection of the Czechoslovakian People's Republic's, and since 1968 Czechoslovakian Socialist Republic's borders. Most of the dogs were acquired from the territory of former East Germany (DDR) and also there were dogs from Czechoslovakia used for breeding; the ones that excelled in their character qualities. The breeding program, established in 1956, was under the direction of Mr. Jiri Novotny from 1981 to 2001. Mr Novotny also was the director of training during this time. Since the foundation of the breeding program , it was focused mainly on strengthening the good power of bones, dark pigmentation, strong nerves and willingness to work in tracking, obedience and defense work. There were three breeding facilities with a total of 80 breeding females that made up the "Z Pohranicni straze" kennel. Combined to these 80 females were 30 stud dogs, all of which were on active duty with their handlers. The breeding facilities were located within the Czech Boarder Police compounds in Domazlice, Libejovice and Prackovice. These compounds had a high security status with access to them strictly forbidden to anyone, including Czech Boarder Police, who did not work at the specific facility. The females were bred and puppies whelped, raised and trained all within these breeding stations by military service conscripts. These stations were staffed by trainers, veterinarians, assistant breeders and kennel help. Once trained the Pohranicni 7
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Straze dogs were assigned a handler and patrolled primarily the border with Germany and Austria to prevent Czechoslovakian’s and any others from within the East Block from escaping. The dogs were trained at the kennels for about 12 months and afterwards relocated to Border Patrol training facilities in their quarters (nowadays they're located in Czech police training facilities). During the years under the communist regime, the Czechoslovakian boarder patrol and their dogs would apprehend 20 to 30 people on a daily basis. While nine out of ten people would give up when confronted, the dogs were regularly called upon to defend their handlers from those intent on crossing the boarder at what ever cost.
YOUR PUPPY’S PEDIGREE Sire: Streiten Van Den Heuvel http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/ german_shepherd_dog/dog.html?id=693929
Dam: Abigail Slavens http://www.pedigreedatabase.com/ german_shepherd_dog/dog.html?id=693931
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PUPPY SUPPLIES Crate For every day – 24" wide x 36" long wire mesh Similar crate for vehicle transport
Food "Chicken Soup for Puppy Lovers" or any other HIGH QUALITY kibble - it should not contain any corn products! 1-2 Tbsp Lard 1 Tbsp Minced Garlic We also highly recommend the Raw Diet. An excellent article can be found at http://leerburg.com/pdf/feedingrawdiet.pdf
Treats We like the 100% dried Chicken breasts but we also use dried hotdog bits for training. Put sliced hotdogs in oven at 200F for approximately 1 hour or until almost crispy. Place on cookie sheet with paper towels on top & bottom to absorb excess grease.
Collar Training- Prong Collar - yes I do believe in them, they are like power steering for dogs. Everyday - 1" Flat Leather or Nylon
Leash 6’ Lightweight Leather 15-20’ Cotton Webbing Long Line 16 - 26' Flexilead
Gates for doorways The kind that can be opened or easily stepped over. Target and Wal-Mart have baby gates at a reasonable price. 9
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2 dishes for food/water Toys Jolly Ball makes excellent, durable toys but anything the dogs likes and will not hurt them is ok. Note: Do not use tennis balls with dogs who have their adult teeth, the glue mixed with saliva will deteriorate the enamel.
Training Toys Tugs, Sleeves, Ball on a string - all of these are helpful but should NEVER be left with the dog. These are YOUR toys that you allow the dog to play with.
Your Puppy’s New Home The First Few Nights Your puppy will be frightened and confused the first few nights away from his mom and littermates. If he cries at night you have a few different options: 1. Place his crate near your bedside but not so near that he can reach your bedding and pull them into his crate. If he cries at night, reach over and put your fingers through the crate, lightly pet him and softly console him. He should go right back to sleep. 2. We put the crate in another room and learn to ignore his fussing. We will also sit in the dark with the puppy for a few minutes just to provide some reassurance and comfort. If the puppy is being a “brat” and you will know when, we “Phui” him and sometimes use a spray bottle of water to emphasis the he should be “quiet”. It should stop in a few days. He may soil his crate during this time since it may cause him some additional anxiety.
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3.Taking your puppy outside in the middle of the night might start a habit that is hard to break. Make sure he has gone outside right before bedtime, and get up early enough in the morning to let him out before he has an accident. Follow one of the options 1 – 2 described above instead of letting him out. You should get up and take him outside as soon as he wakes up in the morning. Crate Training The crate should be placed in an area where the puppy will not feel totally isolated, like in the kitchen, living room or family room. If it is placed down in the basement, out in the garage or in a closed bathroom, your puppy may feel abandoned and may not make the adjustment. You should put an old blanket or towel, something easy to launder, to use as bedding; but if you have trouble with your puppy soiling his crate, remove all bedding. Your puppy may be given a safe toy or chew when he is put in his crate but do not give him more than one. Favorite toys can be rotated to keep him interested. Say “go in”, “kennel” or some other command, in a happy voice and give your puppy a treat when he goes into his crate. Follow with praise. If your puppy cries/barks while in his crate, you may follow several courses of action: a. Shout “QUIET”, as this usually startles the puppy into silence long enough to get in a quick praise and immediately follow with praise, “Good quiet” b. Ignore the puppy, praise when he is quiet. If he is too noisy and you cannot ignore him, take a walk around the block, go out and work in the garden, make a quick trip to the store, etc. c. Totally ignore the puppy (no praise) d. Pick up the front of the crate about two or three inches from the 11
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floor and drop it or briefly shake the crate a little while shouting “QUIET!” Follow immediately with praise. e. Use a spray bottle filled with water and spray him in the ears if he is noisy while telling him “QUIET”. When he is quiet, quickly follow with praise. He will most likely be very wet by the time you finish this training. Some dogs like being sprayed in the mouth but not the ears. Lemon juice squirted directly in his mouth works in particularly difficult cases. You do not need to follow the same course of action each time. You may alternate from one to another. Try to stay on your predetermined schedule. If you puppy is crying/barking in his crate but it is time for him to go outside or to eat, follow the schedule anyway. Do not necessarily wait for him to be quiet before you take him out. Children should not be allowed to play in the crate or to bother your puppy while he is in his crate. You don’t want the puppy to become overprotective of his crate but you do want a place where he can go for peace and quiet.
Your Puppy’s Current Schedule 5:00-6:00am Puppy wakes up and needs to be let outside—Praise him each time with “Good Outside” or something that shows your approval with what he has done. After his business is done, put him back into the kennel.
7:30-8:30am One more outside trip, then back to the kennel for breakfast.
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8:30am-8:30pm We always try to so something with the puppy for part of the day. Walks, drives, socializing activities & training sessions. We usually give them some time on a tied leash or line also.
8:30-9:30pm One last outside & drink and then to the kennel. We also give them a small snack in their kennel each night, currently it is about 1/2 cup of dry kibbles.
10:30-11:30pm This is optional most nights but if the puppy is getting up too early, or is soiling his kennel, then give take him outside before you turn in.
House Training 1. Get on a schedule. The puppy should be able to predict the time he will get up, eat, be kenneled and go to bed at night. Take the puppy out the same door every time. Don’t take him out the front door one time, the back door the next, and the patio door a different time. To begin with, he should be taken out at least once every two hours. Timing should begin from the last time he went potty, not from the time he came indoors. He may have been playing for an hour since he last went potty. 2. Tie a small cowbell (jingle bells should not be used as they can catch a toenail in the slots) to a piece of elastic. Leave about two inches of elastic at the end. Hang the bell on the door that the puppy will be using to go outside. Make at least one extra hanging bell. Take it with you as you bring your puppy with you to different rooms. You should not expect your puppy to go to the outside door to ring the bell when he is with you in the bedroom or bathroom. 13
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Take your puppy out at the following times:
• the very first thing in the morning when your puppy wakes up • after eating • after playing • after napping • after being confined or crated • when his training schedule indicates it’s time • before going to bed for the night 4. Frequently repeat, “Let’s go outside” (or some other key phrase – be consistent in what you say) in a happy voice on the way out. You may begin by carrying him but as he becomes more dependable, encourage him to walk to the door. Continue to repeat your key phrase on the way to the outside door. Take his paw and use it to hit the bell and follow with lots of praise. Continue with the key phrase and praise as you open the door and take him out. Take him right to the area that you want him to potty in (make sure it is someplace that he will be able to get to through the snow in the winter). Walk him around the area – don’t just stand there and don’t leave him out unattended even if you have a fenced area for him because he will need to praise if he is successful.. Encourage him by softly and calmly repeating “Go potty” (or some other phrase) until he goes, then give him LOTS of praise (I do not encourage the use of treats for this training, but it is up to you). Give him only about 10 minutes to do both jobs. 5. If YOU (and he) WERE SUCCESSFUL within 10 minutes – Make note of the time he went. Allow the puppy some free time to play with you or by himself – either indoors or out. Make sure that he has plenty of fresh water outside and shade, especially if it is hot. 14
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6. If YOU (and he) WERE NOT SUCCESSFUL within 10 minutes – Take him indoors and put him in his crate for 15 minutes (give him a treat for going in). Then repeat #4 above. Sooner or later he will go. Do not ever leave him unattended indoors. You must be in the same room with him. Make him your shadow. If you are in the bedroom getting ready for work or the bathroom brushing your teeth, bring him with you and close the door (bring chew toys). Block off doorways by closing doors (attach the bells if it is a door he would exit) or by putting up gates. When it is time to go outside, have him ring the bell to first get out of the room and then ring the one on the door to go outside. Limit his access to other rooms – do not give him the opportunity to wander through the house. Watch him continuously. If you must move from room to room, put him on a leash and tie him to a belt loop or a buttonhole to make him follow you around. If you cannot watch him, put him in his crate. If your puppy rings the bell, either on purpose or accidentally, give lots of enthusiastic praise, repeat your key phrase (i.e. “Go outside?”) and immediately take him outside. He may begin ringing the bell just for the praise and/or attention – NEVER tell him “NO” and do not take the bell down. No matter how hard it is, even if he just went out 5 minutes earlier, praise him and let him out. This behavior should last no longer than about two weeks. If you do not have enough patience to do this, put him on a leash and tie him to you so he cannot get to the bell. IF HE HAS AN ACCIDENT, whether or not you caught him in the act (although in the act is much more effective), show it to him (DO NOT rub his nose in it) and repeat in your most firm and unhappy voice “YOU GO OUTSIDE” or whatever your key phrase is. In this case, try to always carry him, with an adult dog, just pick up his front paws and walk to the door—you are establishing control, dominance and that you are the pack leader. 15
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Take his paw and hit the bell on the way out while continuing to repeat your key phrase in a very firm voice. If he finished his job outside (or goes again) give him praise and follow #5 above. If he did not go, follow #6.
General Training Long Leash Leave a long, lightweight leash or long on your puppy (both indoors and out) when he is not crated. If he is naughty, you can grab the leash and pull him to you. Never to call your puppy and then discipline him – that only teaches him not to come when he is called. Always go to him to discipline. Never let him out of your sight with the long line attached – he could easily get tangled and be hurt.
Protective of Food or Toys If your puppy has a special chew toy, hold it for him while he is chewing. Pet him and softly praise him while he chews. As he gets used to you doing this, continue to hold the toy while he is chewing, pet him near his mouth and continue praising him. This will let him know that just because you place your hand near whatever he is chewing on, doesn’t mean that you are going to take it away. When your puppy is chewing on a chew toy, get a special treat for him. Before you give it to him say, “GIVE” and take the toy away from him. If necessary, show him the treat to get him to give up the toy. Immediately praise, give him the treat and then give the chew toy back. Follow with lots of praise. Do this several times. This will teach him that he can give something to you and still get it back. It also teaches him that giving something up to you and getting a treat and praise (even if he doesn’t get it 16
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back), may be more enjoyable than keeping the toy. At meal times, put a few morsels of dog food in your puppy’s dish. Before he completely finishes them, pick up his dish, add a few more and return the dish to the floor. Before he completely finishes them, pick it up again and add a few more. Do this several times so that he realizes that it’s OK for you to handle his dish.
Barking There are different schools of thought concerning barking. I believe that NOT ALL BARKING IS BAD. You purchased a German Shepherd and part of his or her duties may require barking AGRESSIVELY ON COMMAND. Streiten is trained to bark aggressively when given the command to do so. He is also trained to stop when given the “AUS” (pronounced owss) or “QUIET” command. I have found that when something causes your puppy to really bark aggressively (for Streiten it was seeing cattle) that you can name that behavior by saying “GOOD BAD GUY” or something that you like. It will not be long before you can say “BAD GUY!” and your puppy will obey without the need of the initial stimulus. Once your puppy understands the command to bark, it is a natural step to say “PHUI BAD GUY” or “AUS” or “QUIET”.
Jumping Up This behavior should be stopped from the beginning. It is a very difficult behavior to change once your puppy gets into the habit. Use a command like “OFF” or “STOP.” Do not use the same command that you will be using when you want him to lie down (you could use “DROP” for this command) or when you want him to get off of the furniture (you could use “DOWN” for this command). Be consistent and remember to follow your correction with praise even if no command or correction is needed. 17
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Chewing Your puppy will have a natural urge to chew, especially while going through the teething stage. Have a “toy box” (an ice cream bucket or basket) where he can reach the toys inside. The toys should be of different textures (tennis balls, nylabones, rope toys, hard rubber toys, chew hooves, bell balls, stuffed toys, etc.). If he is able to get a toy, he will be less apt to chew on things he shouldn’t. If he does find something to chew on that he shouldn’t have, take it away, tell him “NO” and offer him something from his toy box. We use a product called “Bitter Apple” (NOT Bitter Yuck) to help stop unwanted chewing. The “Bitter Apple” treatment is to soak a corner of a wash towel with it and then place that in the puppy’s mouth. Hold the puppy’s mouth shut on the corner for 30 seconds (yes you count to 30) then release him. The first time do this 3 times per day for 2-3 days, You will then be able to dilute the bitter apple in a spray bottle of water and spay the items the puppy has interest in. The interest WILL be gone as soon as he gets a whiff of the stuff! This IS a “Negative Reinforcement”, the puppy should NOT like this and vocally show his displeasure. The “better” the negative experience, the more effective it will be. We also use ice as a treat and “short term” chew. It is a good habit to get into, allowing you dog to have ice. It will help cooling him after a hot day of ...
Play Biting-Bossy Mouthing-Growling Your puppy will be very playful and will use his mouth and teeth when playing. He may also begin to display “bossy” behavior by snapping, biting or growling when he doesn’t particularly like what you are expecting him to do. This is normal 18
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adolescent behavior that puppies exhibit to determine their place in the “pack.” You should let him know right away that none of this behavior is acceptable. When he does this, grab his cheeks (a fist full of cheek in each hand), lift him so his front feet are off of the ground, give him one good shake, get “in his face” and say “NO BITE” or “DON’T BITE ME” in a very firm voice. Only when he settles, let go and give lots of praise by saying “GOOD BOY, NO BITE.” If the behavior continues, you may need to do this for a longer period of time, saying “NO BITE” two or three or even four times before letting go. To get the full affect, the puppy should be struggling at first and should even cry while you are administering the correction. Don’t forget the praise when you let go. You need to let him know that you are the pack leader, and that you are not kidding – you mean business.
Quiet Time You and your puppy should spend a little quiet time together each day. While you are watching television or a movie or just sitting and relaxing, hold your puppy and speak softly while you pet him and tell him he is a good boy. Occasionally turn him on his back and hold him like a baby, on your lap or on the floor, softly stroking his tummy. This is a very important for children to do as well. Sometimes puppies see children only as playmates to roughhouse with and they have a difficult times being calm around them. Arrange for quiet time for your puppy and children so that both are aware that they can enjoy each other’s company without being wild and crazy.
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Come You will need two people to teach your puppy to come. This must be done in a fenced area or with a long line attached to your puppy. With the puppy on the ground and one person holding him, the other person should go halfway across the yard, call the puppy and turn and run away from the puppy. When the puppy starts to struggle to get free, the person holding him should let go. When the puppy reaches the caller, he should be praised enthusiastically and given a treat. Now that person should hold the puppy and the other go halfway across the yard and repeat the exercise. Soon you should be able to omit the treat but always continue the enthusiastic praise. Eventually, the puppy will come when you call him, even if you are not running away from him. If he ever gets out accidentally and isn’t coming when called, just call him and run away and he should come after you because he will remember the “COME” game. Please note that some of the training materials that we recommend have different techniques for the COME command. The additional training resources will be listed in the RESOURCES chapter at the end of this handbook.
Fetch Roll a ball (a bell ball works well) and encourage your puppy to get it and bring it back to you. If he does, give lots of praise. If he doesn’t, use a retractable lead (26 foot works best) to bring him back to you, then give lots of praise. Soon he should be retrieving without the lead. This teaches him that he can give something to you and still get it back and it’s FUN. It also is great exercise for the dog with very little effort on your part.
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PUPPY OBEDIENCE A N D S O C I A L I Z AT I O N Learning for puppies begins the morning after they join your household. An eight-week-old puppy can quickly learn to sit for his food or a treat, walk on a leash without pulling, and come when called without formal classes. However, unless the household is full of dogs, kids and other people coming and going at all hours, the puppy will not get his critical socialization at home. Most clubs and training schools offer a Puppy Kindergarten class that fulfills two goals: helping the owner understand the puppy and exposing the puppy to the world. Puppies should not be subject to regimented lessons in these classes but should learn basic commands, play a bit with other puppies, and learn how to behave in a friendly and stimulating atmosphere. German Shepherd should never be manhandled. Your dog will do well in obedience with lots of praise, practice and positive reinforcements. Trust your instincts, if you feel uncomfortable with a training procedure, don’t do it. Training a dog relies on the principle of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement has proven to be the most successful in training because it is so simple, a child can do it, and it doesn’t hurt the dog. This does NOT mean that we do not encourage or use Negative reinforcement. Negative Reinforcement has it’s place, for instance the “DON’T BITE ME” command. We encourage you to take your puppy with you to various events, buildings, stores, anywhere you can think of. 21
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This builds his confidence and teaches him to accept new places and people. ALWAYS defend your dog from other dogs, you are his PACK LEADER and he expects the pack leader to defend him. NEVER, REPEAT, NEVER allow your dog to get into a dog fight. If he does get into a fight with another dog, there is a very good possibility that he will be dog aggressive for the rest of his life. Please note that a puppy from Noble Companions will NEED to be socialized often. If you spend the winter shut up in the house and on your property, there is a very good chance the puppy will behave aggressively to strangers—it is what they were bred to do.
GROOMING Grooming should be considered by both of you as an enjoyable experience. Lay your puppy down on his side and tell him “STAY” in a firm but affectionate voice. You will definitely have to struggle with him to begin with but remember you are the boss. You will most likely have to start out by holding three or all four of his feet with one hand while you brush with the other. Gently brush his side and tummy while telling him “GOOD STAY” or some such phrase. This should begin as very short, gentle grooming and not particularly serious. As he gets used to the position, he may even take a nap during the grooming session. Finish up by giving him a treat. Your dog will benefit from frequent grooming sessions several times a week. Routine grooming helps to keep your dog's skin, coat, teeth, gums and nails in peak condition. As well as generally improving your pet's overall appearance, grooming also provides you with an excellent opportunity to examine the skin and coat for early signs of problems such as parasites, foreign bodies, skin disorders, mats, growths and 22
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wounds. Good grooming behavior should start at an early age, as soon as you acquire your puppy. Begin by getting it used to being placed on a steady table for grooming. Use a rubber backed mat, small carpet or towel to prevent slipping. Teach your puppy to lie down and/or stand quietly and to relax and enjoy your undivided attention (see Grooming in General Training). Scratching the ears or chest may help to sooth an anxious pet, while a hand under a young puppy's stomach provides support and promotes confidence as you gently brush through the coat. This early training taught by repetition, correction and praise is important to ensure that your dog learns to accept grooming and thinks of it as a pleasant experience. You may, if you wish, reward good behavior with a small treat at the end of each grooming session. Be patient. Praise for good behavior and scold firmly if the dog tries to use its mouth on you.
Combing Brushing and combing your dog several times a week is the best way to keep the coat in good condition. On long-haired breeds like the German Shepherd, brushing removes the dead hair before it has a chance to mat and also serves to stimulate the growth of new hair and to help distribute natural oils throughout the coat. The most efficient method is line combing, where the entire coat is brushed in layers from the skin out. This is usually easiest if the dog is lying on its side. With one hand, the hair is parted to the skin and held down while the other hand gently combs through the hair below the part. Once this section is smooth and tangle-free, another section of hair is pulled down along the part and groomed in the same way. You may need to moisten each layer with a light mist of conditioner or coat dressing before brushing. 23
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With the dog lying on his side, use a wide toothed comb, to start by line combing the front and hind legs on that side. Then proceed to the body coat until you reach the backbone. Turn the dog over and repeat the procedure on the other side. You can also reverse this procedure by starting at the backbone and working down to the legs. The order does not really matter so long as all parts of the dog are brushed and combed thoroughly. The chest and stomach area can be reached by lifting the dogs front leg or by rolling it onto its back. Finally, with the dog sitting or standing, comb the head, neck, top of body and the tail. Any mats or tangles should be teased out gently rather than pulled or cut out: use your finetoothed comb. Comb out the face, corner of the eyes and beard. With a small scissors, remove the hair from the pads of the feet. Leaving the hair between the pads is uncomfortable to the dog.
Teeth Just like human beings, your dog’s teeth accumulate plaque, which can harden into tartar. If the teeth are neglected, bacteria can grow causing infections. Regular brushing can help maintain your dog’s teeth and gums, as well as keeping his breath fresh. You should brush his teeth 1-2 times a week. If you start at a young age by scratching the muzzle and handling the mouth you should soon be able to rub the teeth and gums with your finger. Then you should be able to easily progress to gently brushing the dog’s teeth with a small soft toothbrush or finger brush. Never use human toothpaste as it contains detergent, which will foam in the dog’s mouth and if swallowed may upset the stomach. A better alternative is to use canine toothpaste. This special enzymatic toothpaste is available from your vet or pet supply store in an assortment of palatable flavors like chicken, liver and malt. Giving your dog bones, which should always be large, hard beef bones that can’t be splintered or swallowed, is a 24
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natural way for dogs to clean their teeth. These bones can be purchased at pet supply stores or local dog shows. We advise against Greenies and rawhide, as it can block the digestive system. Never give your dog bones from a carcass. You may also give nylabones, sow ears, bully sticks and femur bones. Chewing also helps the teething puppy.
Trimming the Nails Nail care is a basic grooming issue. Your dog’s nails should be trimmed twice a month. Long nails interfere with the dog's gait, making walking awkward or painful. They can also break easily. At Noble Companions we have taken to using a Dremel tool with a grinding stone to trim the nails. There is no chance of cutting to close and causing the puppy to bleed. It is much easier on the dog and they learn to ignore the funny vibration feeling they get. It really tickles much more than anything else.
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COMMANDS
ENGLISH
GERMAN
FRENCH
CZECH
DUTCH
Heel
Fuss (fooss)
Au pied (oh-pee-aye)
K noze (kno zay)
left=Volg right= Rechts
Sit
Sitz (siitz)
Assis (ah-see)
Sedni (said nee)
Zit
Stay
Bleib (bly'b)
Reste (rest)
Zustan
Blijf
Down
Platz (plats
Coucher (coo-shay)
Lehni (leh nee)
Af/ Liggen
Come/Here
Hier (hee er)
Ici(e see)/ Viens
Ke mne (khemn yea)
Hier
Stand
Steh (shtay)
Debout (da-boo)
Stuj (stuuya)
Staan
Bring (brrring)
Rapporte (aport)
Aport
Apport
Hopp
Saute (soot)/ Aller
Skoc/ Hop
Over
Voraus (for owss)
En Avant Vpred (onn-avauhnn) (va porshed)
Retrieve/ Fetch
Jump
Go Out
Voruit
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ENGLISH
GERMAN
FRENCH
CZECH
DUTCH
Track
Such (tsuuk)
Piste (piss-te)
Stopa
Keuring/ Zoek
Guard
Pass auf/ Wache
Garde (guard)
Pozor
Bewaken (bay-wawken)
Bite
Packen/ Fass
Attaque/ Mord
Drz (dursh)
Stellen
Out/Let Go
Aus (owss)
Halte(alt)/ Donne (don-aye)
Pust (pusht)
Los/Loslaten (those-lawten)
Speak/Bark
Gib Laut (gheblout)
Aboie (ah-bwaa) Parle
Stekej (esteke)
Blaffen (blauffen) Luid
Kennel/ Crate
Zwinger/ Box
Chenil
Kotec
Hok/ Kennel
Go Outside
Geh Raus/ Dehors Geh Draussen
Jdi ven
Naar Buiten
Go Ahead
Geh Voraus
Vas
Volno
Voor uit/ Vrij
Go Inside
Geh rein (gay rine)
Monte/ Entre
Pojd sem
Ga de in
Good (praise) So ist brav
Bon Garcon Hodny (bon gar-scon) (hout nee)
Braaf/ Goedzo 27
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ENGLISH
GERMAN
Correction Pfui (fooey) Word "No" Nein (nine)
FRENCH
CZECH
Non/Mauvais/ Fuj (pfui) Mechant
OK
In Ordnung
D'accord
Vyborne
Eat food
Nimm Futter
Mange
Vem si
Leave it
Lass es
Laisse/ Pas Touche (pa-too-shay)
Nech to
DUTCH
Foei
Los
Online Resources Leerburg
www.leerburg.com
Van Den Heuvel K9
www.vandenheuvelk9.com
Koehler Method of Dog Training
www.koehlerdogtraining.com
German Shepherd Security and Abbas German Shepherds
www.germanshepherdsecurity.com
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies
www.jbpet.com
Doctors Foster & Smith
www.drsfostersmith.com
White Dog Bone Company
www.whitedogbone.com
Krueger Enterprises/B.O.S.S
www.kruegerenterprises.com
White Pine Outfitters/collars
www.whitepineoutfitters.com 28
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RESOURCE BOOKS The following is a list of German Shepherd breed specific books that may be interest. 1. GERMAN SHEPHERD: A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO OWNING AND CARING FOR YOUR DOG (Kennel Club Dog Breed Series) – by Zoila Portuondo Guerra 2. GERMAN SHEPHERD: A COMPLETE AND RELIABLE HANDBOOK – by Diane Klumb and Joanne Baldwin DVM 3.
THE JOYOUS GERMAN SHEPHERD – by Kathryn Braund
The following is a list of puppy/dog training books. 1.
POSITIVE PUPPY TRAINING WORKS – by Joel Walton
2. PUPPY CARE & TRAINING: AN OWNER’S GUIDE TO A HAPPY HEALTHY PET – by Bardi McLennan 3. 4.
PUPPY TRAINING FOR KIDS – by Sarah Whitehead, Jane Burton THE KOEHLER METHOD OF DOG TRAINING – by W.R. Koehler
5. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF OPEN DOG OBEDIENCE – by W.R. Koehler 6. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF UTILITY DOG TRAINING – by W.R. Koehler 7. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF TRACKING DOG TRAINING – by W.R. Koehler
8. THE KOEHLER METHOD OF GUARD DOG TRAINING – by W.R. Koehler
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RECOMMENDED VIDEOS & E-BOOKS BY ED FRAWLEY AT WWW.LEERBURG.COM DVDS Your Puppy 8 Weeks to 8 Months Establishing Pack Structure with the Family Pet How to Raise a Working Puppy Bite Training for Puppies Basic Dog Obedience
eBooks on Puppy Training Ed Frawley's Philosophy on Dog Training Socializing Puppies: How to Socialize Your New Puppy The Ground Work to Becoming Your Puppy's Pack Leader Training Puppies NOT TO BITE Who Should Pet Your Puppy Introducing a New Dog into a Home with Existing Dogs Introducing Dogs (or Puppies) into Homes with Cats Dog Parks
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YOUR PUPPY’S VET & FREE HEALTH EXAM Lance Roasa, DVM, MS Animal Medical Center 15226 W Hwy 24 Woodland Park, CO 719-687-9201 For your free puppy health exam, just tell them you have a puppy from Rick at Noble Companions when you make your appointment.
Special thanks to our Sources: 1.“German Shepherd Dog (Alsatian) Breed Standard.” The American Kennel Club. http:// www.thekennelclub.org.uk/item/136. 2. “Welcome to DDR Legends. Where the REAL working dogs unite.”\ www.ddrledends.com Pam Cyrene 3. "http://www.prairieshepherds.com/bloodlinehistory.html" Prairie Shepherds, LLC Kansas, USA 4.Dr. P's Dog Trainging "COMMON DOG COMMANDS IN SEVERAL LANGUAGES" http://www4.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/languag1.htm
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SIRE: Streiten Van Den Heuvel DAM: Abigail Slavens
Noble Companions 719-884-1125 noble_companions@yahoo.com Facebook: Noble Companions 32