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Lunch - - Enjoy delicious, local fare and a

glass of ONX wine while you relax at one of the Oases at the ONX Estate. $40 per person. $25 ONX Collective Members. Relax - - Reserve one of our semi-private vineyard oases to relax and enjoy ONX wine with your friends. Rental fee is a 4 bottle purchase. 2 bottles for ONX Collective Members. Available daily, by reservation. onxwines.com/reservations | info@onxwines.com | (805) 434-5607 Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS

Central Coast Edition VINO


JULY/AUGUST 2018

In This Issue

WINEMAKER REVIEW Mike Callahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Festival of Albariño at Cal Paso . . . . . . . . . 10 Peachy Canyon: A family legacy . . . . . . . . . 12 COVER STORY Mistura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

NORTH COUNTY WINE TASTING MAP .16

PUBLISHER Kevin Davis kdavis@pasoroblespress.com EDITOR Brian Williams bwilliams@pasoroblespress.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Luke Phillips lphillips@atascaderonews.com

7 Summer treats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 ETTO PASTA Open in Tin City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 FEATURED TASTING ROOM Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards . . . . . . . . 24 CALENDAR OF EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Calwise Spirits Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

EDITORIAL Elizabeth Enriquez-Phillips Camas Frank Beth Giuffre ADVERTISING Beth Bolyard Adriana Novack Sheri Potruch

GRAPHIC DESIGN Jim Prostovich COVER PHOTO Contributed Photo Mistura VINO MAGAZINE PasoRoblesPress.com 805-237-6060 935 Riverside Ave, 8A Paso Robles, CA 93446

VINO is published by the Paso Robles Press. All rights reserved, material may not be reprinted without written consent from the publisher. The Paso Robles Press made every effort to maintain the accuracy of information presented in the magazine, but assumes no responsibility for errors, changes or omissions.

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Uncorking Winemaker

Mike Callahan

Chatting with a riesling craftsman on holiday in Burgundy By Beth Giuffre FOR VINO MAGAZINE

W

inemaker Mike Callahan is the man behind both Maidenstoen Wines. He has a thing for site-specific California rieslings that speak of their terroir. Callahan also works as assistant winemaker at Chamisal Vineyards/ Malene Wines. Malene just launched their 2016 rosé, a lovely summer wine reminiscent of the fine rosés of Provence. Callahan, who is from Danville, is the father of three daughters, including brand new baby Helen, and is married to Dr. Margaret (Greenough) Callahan of the Greenough wine family. We recently caught up with Mike Callahan on Skype, when he was vacationing and barrel shopping in Saint-Romain, a commune in near Beaune in the Burgundy region of eastern France. Callahan has been wining and dining, and he adores the people of the region. “They’re so giving,” he said. “They’re so proud without pretension. It’s the best thing in the world when someone loves their culture so much they want to share it with you so emphatically. Nobody’s asking for tips. They’re just so happy to share their wine and their food. It’s not a facade.”

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On Callahan’s palate... Assorted Favorites:

Contributed photo

Restaurant: Black Cat Bistro, Cambria (where he took his wife on their first date) Hotel: (was) The Union in Los Alamos or cheap Air B&Bs Place on Earth: Our house on Squire Canyon in SLO Words: Great googli-moogli and Caddywhompus Winemaker: Tom Greenough (brother-in-law) of Saucelito Canyon Chef: Brian Collins of Ember Restaurant in Arroyo Grande Summer treats: Champagne and crème brûlée Vices: Projects (currently considering constructing a French-style bell tower at his home) and lager beer Bands: Faith No More and Mr. Bungle Song: “The Oogum Boogum Song” by Brenton Wood

Winemaker Mike Callahan with wife Margaret and daughter Helen in Burgundy, France this June.

When did you first come up with the idea of becoming a winemaker and how did that pour into your head? First idea was tasting the wines from Europe when I was in Boulder, Colo. [where the winemaker/avid snowboarder worked at a wine and liquor store].

If you could compare your wine making style to a movie, which one best suits you?

farron elizabeth

"Groundhog Day."

What is the ultimate local food pairing with each of your wines?

Anything at Lido on the cliffs there. You got to do oysters with the Coast View [Maidenstoen Coast View Vineyard Riesling, Monterey County]. Oysters and dry riesling is great because there’s the salinity from the oysters and I think the Coast View is very lean and has a lot of minerality and goes well with that. The Zabala 2016 [Maidenstoen Zabala Vineyard Riesling, Monterey County] has a hint of sweetness and would go great with Thai food and spice. If I had to throw out the Oliver Vineyard [Maidenstoen 2016 Oliver’s Vineyard Riesling, Edna Valley], which is local, with something, I’d put that with ahi tacos or poke. The Lafond [Maidenstoen 2016 Lafond Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills] is very textural and it has good acid, but it’s very rich, so it’s actually kind of nice on its own, but you can also do a charcuterie. Continued on page 9

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INDEPENDENT MERCEDES BENZ & BMW SPECIALIST

Continued from page 7

COMPLETE VEHICLE CARE

Contributed photo

From high-level repairs to basic scheduled maintenance using factoryapproved parts and instructions to ensure compliance with warranties

Winemaker Mike Callahan with wife Margaret in Burgundy, France this June.

Where’s the best place to get Coq au vin in SaintRomain?

Servicing and Repairing:

You ask anyone here and they say, “My mother’s,” although they have it in every restaurant.

What sets you apart from other winemakers in San Luis Obispo County?

They’re much taller than I am... [laughs]... And I’m not trying to make money. [laughs]...well eventually I’d like to! I’m unique because I actually source from four vineyards and only one of them is in San Luis Obispo County. Not only that, I have no tasting room. I don’t sell direct. It’s all wholesale wine. I make the wines and they go out to different restaurants and shops all over California, Colorado, Pennsylvania, Tennessee. Really small production rieslings. I’m not trying to do anything crazy like quit my day job. I have no business plan for a wine club or tasting room. The wines are small production wines to be available for distribution to restaurants and wine bars in a few states.

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For more information on Maidenstoen wines, visit: www.maidenstoenwine.com. For more information on Malene wines visit: www.malenewines.com and #malenewines on Twitter. For more information on Chamisal Vineyards visit: www.chamisalvineyards.com

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The band Encanto performs at CaliPaso Winery for the Festival of Albari単o.

Alan Kinne of the League of Rouges gives notes on his Edna Valley 2017 Albari単o.

Damian Grindley, of Brecon Estate and festival founder gives tasting notes on his 2017 Albari単o.

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July/August 2018

Festival of Albari単o at CaliPaso Story and Photos By Camas Frank FOR VINO MAGAZINE

Published by the PASO ROBLES PRESS

Central Coast Edition VINO


Presenters of the summit at the Festival of Albariño pose before mingling.

Neil Roberts of Clvao Cellars gives notes on his Paso Robles 2017 Albariño.

Dave McGee of Monochrome Wines gives notes on the 2016 Barrel Distortion Albariño.

Rick Longoria of Longoria Wines gives notes on his Santa Yenez 2017 Albariño.

The Central Coast’s very own Festival of Albariño returned for a third year to Paso Robles on June 15 and 16. Dedicated to “California expressions” of the Spanish varietal, Damian Grindley, winemaker at Brecon Estate and co-founder of the Central Coast Albariño Summit, explained that the unique celebration and educational event likely has a new permanent home at CaliPaso Winery. “When we started thinking of a local festival it was, you know, putting the feelers out, thinking that there would be perhaps five or 10 other growers in the area and it turned out there were 30,” he said, with the first festival being held at Brecon Estate, which they quickly outgrew, “so last year we had a split event between Brecon and Broken Earth.” It was at CaliPaso, however, home to one of California's more mature plantings of the vine, that they found the perfect venue, and coincidentally, saved the event from becoming biannual as planned after 2017. “They had an opening in the booking schedule and it was a no-brainer for us to to keep going as an annual event now that we can,” he said. On June 16, the weather was perfect in the courtyard at CaliPaso for tasting 20 different labels of the, “white wine that lovers of reds enjoy,” as Grindley put it, but it was the indoor

VINO Central Coast Edition

seminar where wine lovers and novices alike got notes directly from the winemakers and growers who helped popularize the grape across the region. Moderator of the event, Stewart McLennan, winemaker at Golden Triangle Wines, encouraged audience participation after introductions, assuring that no questions would be taken lightly. “You will never be looked down upon or put out for asking us something,” McLennan said. He added, as participants examined the lineup of Grindley’s 2017 Albariño from Brecon Estate, Alan Kinne’s 2017 Albariño with League of Rogues, Rick Longoria of Longoria Wines’ Santa Ynez 2017 Albariño, Neil Roberts of Clavo Cellars’ 2016 Albariño from Paso Robles, and Dave McGee of Monochrome Wines’ 2016 barrel Distortion Albariño, that, “one would be naive to think of a white as simple.” Arranged on a placemat map of the region to help visitors grasp the geography of growing areas across the Central Coast, tasting progressed from Grindley’s classic interpretation of the style with crisp aromatics, to the rounded smoother notes in McGee’s Distortion, which, as the name suggests, was aged in an atypical manner for the grape. Before heading out to the grand tasting, they got a sample of a rare sparkling wine made from the fruit.

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July/August 2018

11


Peachy Canyon A family legacy

Iconic winery celebrating 30 years

I

By Brian Williams OF VINO MAGAZINE

t would be difficult, actually impossible, to chronicle the history of wine in Paso Robles and not include Peachy Canyon. You’d be hard-pressed to not include the iconic zinfandel house, started by Doug and Nancy Beckett back in 1988, on the Mount Rushmore of the Paso Robles AVA. The Becketts built Peachy Canyon from the ground up and after 30 years are ready to pass the legacy on to their sons, Josh and Jake. Doug takes great pride in that legacy, knowing full well that not everyone succeeds. “Peachy is still a family winery, we are one of the only truly family wineries in California,” Doug said. “And we make a living at this. We created the opportunity.” An invitation-only celebration of their 30 years in operation was held in July. Peachy Canyon is a sustainable winery in Paso’s westside, technically the Adelaida District, but the Becketts prefer to pay homage to their roots and use the former on their label. Beckett wrote a proposal to recognize the distinctive character of the soil

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July/August 2018

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Photo courtesy of Peachy Canyon Doug and Nancy Beckett moved to Paso Robles and started Peachy Canyon, an iconic zinfandel winery that is celebrating 30 years.

Central Coast Edition VINO


and climate on the westside Diego was not easy, but it was of Highway 46, but it was something the couple felt they defeated. Later the AVA was needed to do in order to raise divided into 11 sub-regions. their children in the country. When the Becketts first “It was really home,” Doug moved to Paso Robles, their said of San Diego. “It was at a house was on Peachy Canyon time when I had a real fear, and Road in Peachy Canyon. The Nancy had a real fear, of losing area and the winery draws their one or both of our boys to the name from an infamous horse community, to the streets.” thief, Peachy, who tried to elude capture by hiding in a cave Peachy Canyon begins near the vineyard. Peachy was While enjoying their new ultimately caught and hung in surroundings, the Beckets met town. hobby winemaker Pat Wheeler, The winery has four estate who had a garage-based vineyards, totaling over 100 winery under the label Tobias acres, and also sources grapes Photo courtesy of Peachy Canyon producing 100 cases a year. from other growers in the Paso Peachy Canyon’s “Old School House” tasting room is located at “I went over to help him with Robles AVA. The Old School bottling, and one thing led to 1480 N. Bethel Rd., Templeton. Attractions include a gift shop, House Vineyard, located within picnic area, old-fashioned gazebo, rolling vineyards and native oak another and we decided to form the county's Templeton Gap, a partnership,” Doug said. “I trees. was purchased in 1998. The would be the business side and property's landmark attraction, a school house, was built around he would teach me how to make wine.” 1886 and now serves as the winery's only public tasting room. The Becketts enjoyed their new venture, but the other Paso Their other vineyards include Snow Vineyard, Mustang Springs Robles wineries, seven at the time, “had trouble accepting Tobias Ranch and Mustard Creek. as a legit winery,” Doug said. Today, Peachy Canyon produces over 50,000 cases a year Even though, Tobias helped get the Paso Robles Wine Country and 23 different wines, including 10 different zinfandels, many of Continued on page 30 which are vineyard designates. Today, Peachy Canyon wines are currently sold in 48 states, John Katavich Lic. #36194 Europe, the Pacific Rim and Canada. The senior Becketts now run the daily operations along with their sons and partners Jake and Josh. Zinfandel is their claim to fame. In 1991 and 1992, their Westside zinfandel landed on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines lists. Barns • Tractor Sheds • Out Buildings “Spectator opened up the world for us,” Doug said.

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COVER STORY

MIXING

IT

UP

Mistura Restaurant expands menu, catering, adds wedding venue

By Luke Phillips OF VINO MAGAZINE

M

istura restaurant in Paso Robles is named after the Portuguese word for “mixture” and the eatery certainly lives up to its name. For the past 12 years, Mistura has been serving up an eclectic menu created by Italian chef and owner Nicola Allegretta, inspired by his wife’s Peruvian roots. But now Mistura is expanding its business, bringing some exciting new additions to its menu and also recently opened a second location in the heart of the Tuscany region of Italy. “We’re trying to grow our business, but in quality,” Allegretta said. “That’s what it’s all about.” Allegretta acquired the new location for Mistura from a friend who had owned it for the past 25 years and said that so far the Mistura menu has been a hit with the locals. “We just revived this place,” he said. “We transformed it and created another Mistura right there and it’s been well-received by people and it’s fantastic.” Italians are “close to their food,” Allegretta said, and don’t often venture out to try new things. “Any sort of food like sushi or Chinese or burgers, it’s kind of like, ‘Oh, let’s

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go out for this or let’s go to the pub today,’ but it’s not a priority, it’s not the main thing for them. In Tuscany they’re very proud of their food and every single place you go they have steak and potatoes — it’s like a staple. So to have something different and something good, they just keep on coming and want to try new dishes.” Peruvian cuisine, Allegretta explained, incorporates a mixture of different culinary traditions and cultures. It is influenced by its native American roots, the Spanish conquistadors who conquered the nation in the 1700s, the creole cuisine of the black slaves they brought with them, the Chinese who came to build railroads, Europeans who came during World War II and the influx of Japanese immigrants who came during the 1970s. “There are so many cultures together,” Nicoletta said. “You could eat 365 days per year and a different dish every day. Italians, we’re more basic in our elements — tomato, basil, pasta and pizza. They do much more in Peru because of all the micro climates.” Nicoletta said that markets in Peru stock fresh vegetables harvested from nearby, fresh seafood and meat, and other farm-to-table ingredients. For a chef, it’s like “being a kid in a toy store,” Nicoletta said. He hopes to bring this philosophy to the new menu at Mistura, sourcing ingredients locally and changing things seasonally based on what’s available. The menu will also move toward simplifying the main dish options and adding a variety of new “tapas style” appetizers. As an example, Alegretta said that one of the new menu items would be a type of sashimi (raw fish) but with a twist on traditional Japanese-style sashimi, adding black truffles and pomegranate. “Stuff of that level — a little bit of creativity in the dishes,” he said. “That’s what we’re kind of working on. We try to work in this factor of the presentation, so that’s what we’re really looking into, giving it another dimension.” Allegretta said that much of the inspiration for the new menu came from trips to international food shows such as the recent Aspen Food & Wine Classic. These events give Allegretta a chance to schmooze with some of the top chefs in the world, get a handle on food industry trends and try new foods from all over the world. “You socialize with those people and you come up with something and they come up with something and it’s always something outof-the-box,” he said. “The whole wine country is evolving and as it evolves, new people are coming, so we needed to bring something new too, we needed to stay on our guard. We can’t just stick with the same pasta and tomatoes.” The menu isn’t the only thing expanding at Mistura — the VINO Central Coast Edition

restaurant has also built a name for itself as a first-class wedding venue in recent months, offering two intimate but majestic ceremony and reception areas, complete with on-site catering by the newly-launched Mistura Catering company. Allegretta previously owned and operated Mama’s Meatball Catering (named after his San Luis Obispo restaurant) and Haute Catering. But he said the Haute label only created confusion and rebranding as Mistura Catering allows potential clients to tie the company to its physical location. “That way when you’re out in the field, people recognize you, they know who you are,” he said, adding that the catering company will still offer much more than just Peruvian cuisine. “When we do catering we’re not focused on just Peruvian cuisine, we can do anything.” Beyond the authentic Italian and Peruvian offerings, Mistura has served everything from French food to Mexican food or even something as simple as Santa Maria-style tri-tip. But Mistura always adds a twist to the traditional faire and presents it with flair. Allegretta said that he likes to “upgrade” dishes to the next level with the addition of gourmet sauces and marinades and other unexpected touches. “We can twist it and go away from the roots because we have the knowledge,” Allegretta said. “We do a lot of fusion cuisine — it just depends on what people are looking for.” Allegretta has studied food and cooking all over the word, from his home country of Italy to his wife’s native land in Peru and many places in between including Germany, England, the Dominican Republic, France and North Africa. Mistura provides catering services at weddings and events of any size all over the county and beyond, but they just recently started hosting weddings in-house. Right outside the restaurant's backdoor and beyond the charming patio is the ceremony site preferred by most brides at the venue, an open grassy area under a towering oak tree and next to a serene pond full of koi. Mistura’s “Garden of Eden” can accommodate up to 150 seated guests or 300 with standing room only. An indoor event space can hold up to 60 guests. The greenery at the River Oaks Golf Course provides a lovely backdrop for weddings and other events with its big, open grassy areas studded with mature oak trees. The patio itself can also serve as a wedding venue for 60 seated guests or 100 standing. Both venues include elegant tables and chairs and “bistro lighting.” You can find Mistura at 700 Clubhouse Drive in Paso Robles, next to the River Oaks Golf Course clubhouse. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4-9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4-10 p.m. For more information, call 805-238-3333 or visit misturarestaurants.com.

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alcareous Stacked Stone Cellars Peachy C a on Rd ny w Estate Écluse anyo n R d TH Estate Wines

46

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VINO Central Coast Edition

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July/August 2018

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7

Summer treats to keep cool between wineries

Sweet tooths unite: Demand what you deserve By Beth Giuffre FOR VINO MAGAZINE

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ome wine tasters revolve their entire day in the Central Coast wine country on where to get a bite in between wineries. For those with bedeviling sweet tooths, however, plans must be made ahead of time, since not every wine stop offers food with tastings — especially sweets. Here are seven local treat spots to feed the Summer sugar fancies:

1

Creamy Artisan Ice Cream Sandwiches

Location: Negranti Creamery 2989 Limestone Way, Paso Robles (next to BarrelHouse Brewing Co.)

Location: Jack Creek Farms Country Store 5000 Highway 46 West, Templeton

When Negranti Creamery opened up in 2011, those who cherish the sweet treat became spoiled, because now no other ice cream compares to the luscious flavors of salted brown sugar, chocolate malt and strawberry basil Negranti ice cream. The family-owned creamery uses tasty, wholesome milk from pasture-raised sheep and cows nd as an added bonus, not only is the Sheep’s milk craft ice cream lactose intolerant friendly, it contains 8 percent less fat than normal ice creams. It’s also higher in protein and richer in vitamins and minerals. Alexis Negranti creates each ice cream recipe herself, with seasonal, unprocessed ingredients from local farmers. And for the trailblazers, ice cream sandwiches can be customized to a person’s liking and licking.

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2

Cool Apple Cider Slushies and Pomegranate Juice Granitas

Before losing yourself like Snow White among the charming shelves of family-owned Jack Creek Farms country store on Highway 46 West, where the area’s best farms and gelaterias sell their honey, fudge, eggs, and gelato, take a look past the register to the granita machine — it’s a mirage in the desert. Right now Jack Creek is using seasonal apples and pomegranates for the fresh-pulled granitas (or slushies as we who partake in 7-Eleven call them), but they grow rows of berries, too, which sometimes make it into the summer slushies. To maximize flavor, the Jack Creek Barlogio family will alternate between flavors, which tastes incredibly refreshing when layered like a summertime parfait.

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3

Group Hug/Vina Robles WHITE4 Sangria

Location: Your very own hotel room, bar or local patio This one’s for the Pinterest addict, amateur bartender or do-it-yourselfer to prepare for his friends. As long as it’s prepared ahead of time, and you have a nice, big pitcher wherever you are staying, you can fit in this cool refresher between a dip in the pool and the evening concert on the grass at Vina Robles Amphitheatre. One of the Vina Robles bartenders came up with the most lovely and crisp stone fruit sangria recipe made with their White4. According to their website, www.vinarobles. com, here’s the recipe to this impressive, aromatic party beverage:

DIRECTIONS:

INGREDIENTS: • • • • • • • • •

1 bottle WHITE4 cup brandy cup triple sec cup orange juice cup lemon juice cup club soda cup ginger ale cup sugar 2 cups chopped fruit – peach, mango, orange, green grapes

4

In a pitcher, combine ingredients and stir. Refrigerate until the drink is chilled and the flavors are blended, eight to 12 hours. Serve the sangria in chilled, ice-filled glasses.

Small Town Berry Cupcakes and Classic Lemon Bars

Location: Just Baked Cake Studio & Bakery 22720 El Camino Real, Suite A, Santa Margarita As if the “adorbs” town of Santa Margarita isn’t cute and quaint enough, there is a cake studio and bakery there with the best lemon bars in the county — but while there, you are hereby required to pop a few cupcakes in the basket as well. On a regular basis the gals at the cake studio bake fresh petite cupcakes made with summer fruit like lemons, strawberry and locally-picked olallieberries. The Classic Lemon Bars are made with tart lemon filling and a shortbread crust. The little dream cakes are worth the drive, especially on the way north to San Luis Obispo. Right next door is Ancient Peaks Winery tasting room, and the winery and bakery share a patio for double indulgences.

VINO Central Coast Edition

5

Premium Affogato: Italian for “drowned” (in joy)

Location: Spearhead Coffee 619 12th St., Paso Robles Summer coffee drinkers with sweet inclinations can learn from the Italians. Spearhead baristas pour the community coffee roaster’s impeccably-sourced hot espresso over ice-cold vanilla gelato for the lovely affogato drink/bowl of joy. And no matter what is on the café’s sound system, a Tuscan breeze sweeps through the room and Andrea Bocelli will be giving you a shoulder massage.

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Rabbit Ridge’s Nostalgic Orange Cream Soda

Location: Nature’s Touch Nursery & Harvest 225 S. Main St., Templeton The best place to find a bottle of Rabbit Ridge Winery Orange Cream Gourmet Soda Pop is at Nature’s Touch, a Templeton all-organic or naturally grown specialty plant nursery and local grocery store, especially since Nature’s Touch also sells hard-to-find organic Tomatero Farms Albion strawberries to pair with the soda as you cool off on one of the natural food store’s shaded picnic benches. The “Paso Pure” soda pop is crafted by Rabbit Ridge Soda Company with artesian spring water and natural ingredients. The nostalgic soda uses fresh oranges, natural vanilla and special spices to create the old-fashioned flavor.

7

Leo Leo Sorbetto

Location: SLO Sweets 840 11th St., Suite 101, Paso Robles SLO Sweets is the candy store of all candy stores, with the 1971 version of “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory” on a neverending gobstopper loop, and rows and rows of so many classic and colorful candies you kind of go Violet Beauregarde with excitement. Also bright purple is the Blackberry Cabernet Sauvignon sorbetto for scooping at the front counter. Master gelatiers at the Leo Leo factory in Paso handcraft the gelato and sorbetto from natural ingredients and local farm produce in the northern Italian tradition. Like Jack Creek Farms, SLO Sweets offers a cooler of gelato flavors to-go, which fit ever-so-nicely in the dessert section of your picnic basket to blanket-up in the downtown square grass.

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19


TREAT YOURSELF TO AN INDULGENT EXPERIENCE OF OLIVE OIL AND VINEGAR TASTING. REJUVENATE WITH NATURE BY WALKING THROUGH THE OLIVE ORCHARD

EXPERIENCE FIRST HAND THE PROCESS BEHIND MAKING OLIVE OIL, AND VISIT OUR MOBILE OLIVE MILL

ENHANCE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND PALATE WITH OUR UNIQUE OLIVE OILS OFFERING AN ARRANGE OF OLIVE OIL BODY PRODUCTS

TASTING ROOM OPEN SATURDAY & SUNDAY FROM 10AM-4:30PM, WEEKDAY TASTINGS BY APPOINTMENT

2985 Templeton Rd. • Templeton,Ca, 93465 • 805-610-2258 • www.OleaFarm.com

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July/August 2018

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Central Coast Edition VINO


Etto Pasta

open in Tin City Story and Photos By Camas Frank FOR VINO MAGAZINE

VINO Central Coast Edition

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Continued on page 22

July/August 2018

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he commercial district known as Tin City between Paso Robles and Templeton, just off Highway 101, is getting attention for more than just wine. Now visitors can add pasta to the mix following the opening of Etto Pastificio pasta factory. Although there are still approximately 20 wineries, a brewery, cider house, distillery and creamery in the complex, business owners Brian and Stephanie (Stephy) Terrizzi hope to bring in shoppers looking for the best in artisanal local food as their pasta production facility expands into a retail outlet. “What started as a crazy idea to make some pasta has morphed into much more,” they wrote in a message inviting the public to grand opening celebrations June 14-17. “We now have an Italian and local marketplace where we feature our favorite products from Italy and local products from over 20 local farms chefs and producers.” Don’t let the divergence from wine fool you though, the Terrizzis are both winemakers after all and, said Brian Terrizzi, his interest in good quality pasta started with his Italian-American heritage and years spent learning the Italian winemaking styles. “Wine is food,” he said, adding that well made, and properly portioned servings of both wine and pasta are staples of the Italian diet. “What people don’t realize is how much protein is in a normal portion [of pasta]. Mixed with fresh vegetables and other proteins, it can be a cornerstone of good health.” Using a machine imported from an equipment manufacturer in northern Italy, where Terrizzi toured and learned from the locals, Etto has been producing pasta as wholesaler for many restaurants on the Central Coast. They’ve been using “West Coast organic durum semolina flour” sourced from Central Milling Company in Petaluma. Capable of producing about 300 pounds a day of most of the varieties one’s familiar with (spaghetti, zucca, rigatoni, radiatori, etc), they’ve also got meatballs made from grass-fed Templeton beef. Raviolis are in the works, but haven't hit the market just yet. The public can visit the factory to purchase pasta direct as of now and other items on offer include almost any Italian cuisine product which would compliment pasta. Olive oil and the Terrizzis’ own Italian style red wines being the most obvious pairings, others on the shortlist include: Templeton Hills Beef; Tablas Creek Lamb; salami from Alle-Pia; three different creameries, Stepladder, Farmgirl, and Central Coast; Paso Almonds; The Pistachio Factory; breads from Back Porch Bakery and GinaMarie Italian Confections...to name a few. Events around the grand opening weekend

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resembled more of a farmers market or cooking demonstration than a factory floor, with local suppliers and proprietors offering up samples and talking with the public, but that won’t always be the case. Pasta maker Brielle Snyder notes that the process is very “hands-on” when the factory operation is in full swing, so anyone dropping by will see a lot more action, and moving pieces, than the prep work was engaged with Saturday. A new restaurant is in the works for the space next door to the factory as well. Although the Terrizzis aren’t part of that company, diners will have a literal window into the manufacture process, already installed in the adjoining wall. Etto is located at 3070 Limestone Way in Paso Robles. Wayfinding signs and landscaping will help visitors recognize the spot. The business is open from 12-6 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and from 12-5 p.m. on Sunday.

Offering group and private classes utilizing the Pilates Reformer, Chair and Trap Table. We are all highly certified, trained Pilates professionals with years of teaching experience.

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Making Your Wedding as Unique & Beautiful as You

Arlyne’s Flowers & Gifts 6485 Palma Ave • 805-466-1136 www.ArlynesFlowersandGifts.com

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FEATURED TASTING ROOM

Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards: 24

July/August 2018

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Where the orchards meet the sea By Luke Phillips FOR VINO MAGAZINE

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ucked away at the bottom of a giant mountain along the scenic See Canyon, Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards offers a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of nearby Avila Beach. With outdoor patios, seating in the grass and amongst the small on-site vineyard and a walk-up window for ordering wine, Kelsey is the perfect place to spend a lazy afternoon. With most of the real estate given to outdoor spaces and the wine production area, the tasting room proper is small, but thanks to an abundance of beautiful art and tasteful decoration, it is still impressive. The first thing most visitors will probably notice is the room’s strong nautical theme, a tribute to owner Dolores Kelsey’s grandfather Tony Sylvester, who immigrated from Portugal and settled in Avila where he spent his days diving for abalone with his brother. The nautical theme is also a nod to a tugboat business operated by Dolores Kelsey and her husband Dick Kesley. In fact, the current production facility is housed in a building that used to serve as a tugboat repair barn. The tasting room walls are covered by paintings of mermaids and other oceanthemed subjects by Dolores Kelsey’s granddaughter Colleen Gnos. Gnos is an acclaimed local artist who was recently voted “Best Artist” in the County in a poll conducted by San Luis Obispo newspaper The New Times. She’s also known for her paintings on the lifeguard towers at Avila Beach. Kelsey See Canyon Vineyards is located at 1947 See Canyon Rd. in San Luis Obispo. They are open daily from 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. For more information, call 805-595-9700. “It’s just kind of grown and grown and grown,” said Wine Club Manager Barbara Hooker. “But what I find cool is that everything is done here. We don’t have all estate vines, but we’re getting the whole clusters of grapes and we’re doing everything.”

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS JULY 13 AND, JULY 14 2018 Bacon & Barrels

Enjoy a fun-filled weekend at Madonna Meadows in San Luis Obispo, featuring creative bacon dishes from the best chefs on the Central Coast, and sample from barrels of the best in wine, bourbon and craft beer. We'll kick off the weekend with an all-pork wine dinner versus beer dinner under the stars. At Saturday's main event, the hottest chefs from the finest local restaurants will prepare and serve small plates starring bacon and pork belly in its most inventive forms. The best mixologists, brewers, and wineries will quench your thirst with refreshing bacon-based and bacon-inspired cocktails and brews. Bacon Heaven will include artisan and local vendors, games, music and more. To celebrate special achievement in the bacon arts, one Chef and one Mixologist will be named the 2018 Jefe del Porko. It's pretty much our Bacon Oscars, and not one to be missed. For more information, visit baconandbarrels.com.

JULY 14 Winemaker Dinner in the Gardens

Join Still Waters Vineyards and Winery for a summer dinner in our stunning gardens Saturday, July 14. A five-course meal will be prepared by Chef Charles D. Paladin Wayne to accompany a generous flight of our favorite wines. The price is $105 for club members and $130 for non-club members. To make a reservation, email kasey@stillwatersvineyards.com or call the tasting room at 805-237-9231. Space is limited so don’t delay. Dinner is from 6 to 9 p.m. Still Waters Vineyards and Winery is located at 2750 Old Grove Lane in Paso Robles.

JULY 20 Pomar Junction Wine-Rail Excursion

Leave the SLO Amtrak Station at 3:35 p.m. on Friday afternoon and travel on the Amtrak Coast Starlight over the beautiful Cuesta Grade to Paso Robles. Then get transported to Pomar Junction Vineyard for their Train Wreck Friday party. Enjoy live music by Unfinished Business. The entertainment and wine tasting are included in your fare of $85 per person. Buy dinner or bring your own picnic, and then get transported back to the SLO Amtrak Station. For more information, visit slorrm.com.

2018 Gold Medal Tasting & Wine Industry Awards

Join the Central Coast Wine Community in celebrating this year’s award-winning wines and wine industry members. Walk-around tasting from 5 to 6:30 p.m. and Awards Presentation at 6:30 p.m. The ticketed event will feature walk-around tasting of gold medal winners of the Central Coast Wine Competition plus a special presentation honoring this year’s top industry awards for winery, winemaker, wine grape grower and wine industry persons of the year. More than 40 wineries will be invited to share their top

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rated wines with fair attendees. Early-bird online tickets are $30 and on-site tickets $40. Purchase tickets at: www.eventbrite.com/o/ california-mid-state-fair-14481045681 Fair admission is not included. The event is free to attend and observe (with paid fair admission). Guests must be 21 years of age to participate in the tasting.

, a glass of wine and of course baby goats to hang out with. Space is limited. Book your reservation at ww.californiagoatyoga.com.

JULY 22

The disco era of the 1970s was a time of dazzling decadence, playful fashion, and musical mischief. Now, for one out-of-this-world evening, you will be transported back to this era as we host the DAOU Studio 54 Gala — so named for the famous New York City nightclub that set the pace for all things disco. We can promise you that this will be a party without peer. There will be no end to the astonishments and surprises that we have curated for your pleasure. From the cuisine to the wines to the performances, we are intent on raising the already lofty bar that we have set with past DAOU galas. A roller rink, exotic wildlife, and a full-fledged discotheque — this is just a small reveal of what is to come from 6 to 10:30 p.m. Join us as we make history together and recapture the glory days of disco. This event will sell out quickly. Purchase now to secure your tickets. $495 per individual ticket, $450 per individual ticket when purchasing 10 or more, prices exclude tax. DAOU Vineyards is located at 2777 Hidden Mountain Rd. in Paso Robles. Tickets are available at daouvineyards.com.

Mixology Competition

Mixologists will combine California agriculture products and the growing craft spirit Industry in California in a live, educational competition from 3:30 to 5 p.m. and tasting from 5 to 7 p.m. Distilleries that participated in the California Craft Spirits Competition are eligible to be part of the festival. Mixologist, restaurants and/or bars will partner with a winning spirit to create the cocktail of their choice. These creative cocktails will then be featured in a twohour festival tasting. All proceeds from the event benefit the Distillers of SLO County. Early-bird online tickets are $30 and onsite tickets are $40. Purchase tickets at: www.eventbrite. com/o/california-mid-state-fair-14481045681. Fair admission is not included. The competition is free to attend and observe (with paid fair admission). Guests must be 21 years of age to participate in the tasting.

JULY 25 Craft Beer Tasting and Awards Night

The Central Coast Brewer’s Guild present their first Craft Beer Tasting and Awards Night to share with the California Mid-State Fair’s fans of craft beer. WalkAround Tasting is from 5 to 7 p.m. and the Awards Presentation starts at 7 p.m. Early-Bird Online Tickets: $30 and On-Site Tickets: $40. Purchase Tickets here: www.eventbrite.com/o/ california-mid-state-fair-14481045681 The participating breweries include Silva Brewing, Central Coast Brewing, Libertine Brewing, Firestone Walker Brewing, Earth & Fire Brewing, SLO Brew, Barrel House Brewing, 7 Sisters Brewing, and Figueroa Mountain Brewing. The Craft Beer Awards will announce the Brewmaster of the Year from the candidates: Matt Brynildson of Firestone Walker Brewing, Brendon Gough of Central Coast Brewing, and Kevin Ashford of Figueroa Mountain Brewing. Fair admission is not included. The event is free to attend and observe (with paid fair admission). Guests must be 21 years of age to participate in the tasting.

JULY 28 Goat Yoga and Wine

California Goat Yoga comes to Lefondusac. The first class is sold out, but there is still room in the 11:45 a.m. class. Definition: goat yoga // noun / the art of yoga with baby goats walking and playing at-will around you. Also see: fun, chaos Tickets are $45 and includes the class, yoga mat

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SATURDAY, AUG. 11 DAOU's Studio 54 Gala

AUG. 18 Evening Under the Estrella Sky

Join the winemakers and business owners for this fundraising dinner from 6 to 9 p.m. Start with a walkaround tasting and end with a four-course dinner with 13 wines. Proceeds go to the Friends of Mission San Miguel.

AUG. 24 Art & Wine Tour

Come enjoy an evening stroll in beautiful Downtown Atascadero from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Your $20 ticket includes a wine glass, tastings among downtown merchants, and tours of Historic City Hall. Purchase your tickets online at www.atascaderochamber.org or on the day of, in front of Historic City Hall located at 6500 Palma Ave. in Atascadero. Atascadero Historical Society Docents will take you on a journey back in time covering the beginning through the restoration process that followed after the San Simeon Earthquake. Hosted by Atascadero Chamber of Commerce and the City of Atascadero.

Pop-Up Dinner: Asian Fusion Night at Niner Wine Estates

The Niner Wine Estates team was inspired to pair classic Asian flavors with their bold Malbec. Their pop-up dinners are designed to be nights where their chefs can show off their creativity with fun menus served family style. Each night has an entertaining theme, ingredient or dish that drives what we serve and will feature local producers paired thoughtfully with two of the estate grown wines. Start with a wine and appetizer reception in our tasting room before taking Central Coast Edition VINO


CALENDAR OF EVENTS your seat for dinner, chat with your table neighbors and enjoy a family-style meal. ticket price includes food, two glasses of wine and gratuity. The menu for this night consists of a passed apps of crispy Shumai made with pork, shrimp, ginger, garlic, scallions and a thai chili aioli with lime. Leading to the main course of grilled flank steak with a pineapple ginger marinade served with aromatic rice, scallions, garlic and fried leek accompanied by pan seared bok choy and a 2014 Malbec. Dessert is a white wine poached sweet Asian pear with cinnamon and star anise. The event is from 6 to 8 p.m. and tickets are available at ninerwine.com. Niner Wine Estates is located at 2400 Highway 46 in Paso Robles.

AUG. 25 Trains and Tapas

Join us for an evening at the San Luis Obispo Railroad Museum while enjoying local beer and wine with traditional Spanish tapas from 6 to 8 p.m. at 1940 Santa Barbara Ave. in San Luis Obispo. Explore the Central Coast Model Railroad, the Exhibit Hall including the new Teddy Roosevelt Exhibit and the La Cuesta Observation Car. Check out the Rolling Stock Exhibits including new Beet Gondola and see assorted new and vintage Railroadiana. Tickets are $20 for museum members and $30 for non-members. For information and to purchase tickets, email media@

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slorrm.com or call 805-548-1894. You can also visit https://slorrm.com/180825.html.

Coast. For tickets and more information, visit www. whalerockmusicfestival.com.

TASTE2 "Suds In The Sun"

SEPT. 29

Join the Pismo Chamber as they host TASTE2 "Suds In The Sun" an event overlooking the beach at Dinosaur Caves Park from 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The event will include a Home Brew Throwdown. Enjoy the amazing views while you enjoy beer tasting and food tasting by local businesses. VIP also available — early admission, specialty pours for one hour, lanyard and pretzel necklace. Limited tickets available. Early bird pricing available soon and military discount available. Live music, games and fun. This is a 21-and-over event. Anyone interested in participating, contact the chamber office at 805-773-4382 or email david@ pismochamber.com.

SEPT. 15 AND, SEPT. 16 Whale Rock Music & Arts Festival

Don't miss two days of wine-loving, peace and jammin' in the vines at Castoro Cellars. Bands, yoga, art, wine, craft beer, kids activities and more. With music by Aloe Blacc, Lake Street Dive, Fruition, Orgone, Con Brio, Rayland Baxter, Joey Dosik and many more. Do not miss out on the premier music event on the Central

Templeton Oktoberfest

Join us for SLO County's best Oktoberfest. North County will be the place to be Sept. 29, as they roll out the mugs for this beer event. Don your lederhosen and dirndl and enter in the bestdressed contests. Also now is the time to practice your stein holding and beer chugging skills so you will be ready to win some great prizes. Leave the kids at home as the inflatables are for the adults to bounce on this time. Corn hole, check. Giant beer pong, check. The Central Coast's best Oktoberfest band Trio Internationale will be kicking up the tunes. Your ticket will include access to all the great music and fun, and mini mug with unlimited tastings. For the ultimate fun fork out a couple more bucks and get the one-liter mug (required for some contests). One liter mugs will be available for upgrade at the event if not sold out. These are real glass and a great addition to your home as well. Authentic German food items available for purchase from Beda's Biergarten. Sorry kids, 21 and over for admission to this one. No refunds. This event is rain or shine. More information at www.templetonoktoberfest.com.

isit Rava Wines to enjoy a flight, glass, or share a bottle with friends!

Rava Wines is the perfect getaway; whether it be just for the afternoon, or a weekend stay at Villa Giada, our 3 bed/2 bath Villa. We look forward to hosting you! Rava Wines released a full flight of Sparkling Wine this Year. Who can resist a flight of bubbly?

Rava Wines – 6785 Creston Rd. Paso Robles, Ca 93446 – info@ravawines.com – 805-238-7282 VINO Central Coast Edition

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July/August 2018

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Calwise Spirits Co.

Paso Robles home launched Story and Photos By Camas Frank FOR VINO MAGAZINE

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ocated just around the corner from the iconic Tin City development — home to wine and beer on the outskirts of Paso Robles, near Templeton — a new distillery opened their doors June 9 at 3340 Ramada

Drive. Calwise Spirits, formally known as Wild Coast Spirits, then Calivore Spirits when they were based in in the City of San Luis Obispo and working through the Cal Poly Center for Entrepreneurship and Innovation ‘HotHouse’ program, the company has already been selling craft California-themed rum and gin in local stores. Flavored with herbs native to the Big Sur region, their biggest award winner has been the aptly named, “Big Sur Gin” but a spiced rum and “Blonde Rum” have also been on the menu at Fish Gaucho in Paso Robles as well as Flour House and Novo in San Luis Obispo. Bottles, selling for $35 have also been available at Whole Foods, Bevmo, Vons and the California Fresh Markets in San Luis Obispo and Pismo Beach (not yet in Paso Robles). Company founder Aaron Bergh said that, while he grew up in Ventura County before coming north to attend university, he came to, “love the people, the scenery and the nature on the Central Coast. I found a place to start a business and a life here.” In Paso Robles he found, “a hotbed for the craft beverage movement, a successful movement that started with Firestone-Walker as an inspirational presence.” While perhaps not his direct inspiration — after all he had a long family history with moonshine on his own — the burgeoning craft brew culture gave the building’s developer encouragement to create a space for a beverage company before knowing who

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The Bergh family with a brand new still, from left Kelsea, Kathy, Aaron, and Eric.

would occupy it. Flanked by a winery and a craft brewer, Calwise is putting their own stamp on the 6,000-squarefoot space (3,000 in the back for production and shipping, 1,500 for the public space and kitchen and another 1,500 for offices upstairs). They’re ready to hit the ground running with specialty cocktails made, “so far just with our rum and gin but it’s not just any rum or gin. Everything is inspired by our California culture and made from Paso and Central Coast wine grapes,” Bergh said, listing off white sage, elderberries, California yerba santa, fennel to the area naturalized here and juniper with California bay. “I worked in and studied agriculture,” he said. “And I started thinking, ‘Hey we grow the best flavors in the world in California, both on purpose and naturally.’ When I started home distilling, I turned into being a scientist and an artist. It’s the only thing [Bergh’s found] that combines both.” Unlike some home-distillers that “go legit,” Bergh isn’t shy about going on record that he started learning long before acquiring the proper licenses, “everyone starts that way with this,” but all the i’s are dotted and t’s crossed for the the official opening in Paso Robles he assures. “We’ll be the first [dedicated] distillery to have a restaurant and bar on the Central Coast,” he noted, with simple Mediterranean influenced cuisine, pizza, salad, soups, appetizers and desserts, with special attention paid to bacon wrapped dates, a local favorite. By June 9 a specially-crafted Redwood bar and Big Sur themed decorations had been installed in the freshly painted tasting-room for a grand opening well attended by family,friends and neighbors. “I haven't had a chance to get to know everyone [in the neighborhood] but we plan on being a very collaborative environment,” Bergh said. “We’ve already talked to Kilo Kilo Brewing next door, we’re planning on doing a distilled whiskey with them.” Currently regular business hours are being held Thursday through Sunday.

VINO Central Coast Edition

Calwise tasting attendant, Rebecca Graham, pours a blonde rum for a tasing flight.

Spiced Rum and Gin bottles signed by Calwise Spirits founder Aaron Bergh.

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Continued from page 13

Alliance going and poured at the first-ever Paso Robles wine festival, “We still were on the edge,” Doug said. No matter, the Becketts were hooked, but were ready to do their own thing. After breaking away from Wheeler, the Becketts moved all of the winemaking equipment from Wheeler’s garage to their farm near Peachy Canyon Road. Peachy Canyon officially launched in 1988 with just a few hundred cases with Doug as the winemaker. In 1990, Doug struck a deal with an up-and-coming young winemaker from Ohio — Tobin “Toby” James. “He was this rookie kid … but he had a real gift for wine,” Doug said. “He wanted to start his label and I was starting mine, so we decided ‘OK, I’ll help you, you help me. We’ll do Tobin James here and we’ll do Peachy Canyon here.’ He certainly had more talent than I did. “That was sort of our beginning,” Doug said. James went on to start Tobin James Cellars and opened the door for Robert Nadeau to takeover the winemaking reins at Peachy Canyon for a few years before starting his own label — Nadeau Family Vintners.

About 20 years ago, the winemaking operation was moved to an old abandoned winery on Nacimiento Lake Drive in Paso Robles and the vineyard was replanted. The Peachy Canyon Tasting Room is open seven-days a week on North Bethel Road in Templeton. Today, Peachy Canyon’s winemaker is Robert Henson, who came over from Tooth and Nail Winery in 2015. At one point, Peachy produced 100,000 cases of wine a year, but tapered back to 50,000. The winery is 100 percent sustainable, 100 percent solar and have their own wells. “This is our footprint,” Doug said. “We try to keep it clean. We try to keep it as something that people would like to emulate.”

Why zinfandel?

Next generation

“Zin was the first grape that I could get my hands on,” Doug said. “It was the only grape that Pat Wheeler was making when we joined forces. His source was Benito Dusi, old-vine zinfandel, delicious.” Dusi, at the time, was doing most of his work with Ridge Vineyards, but helped Doug when he started Peachy Canyon. “It became a real love affair with zin,” Doug said, adding that the second grape he bought was Petite Sirah, which gave the zinfandel color, complexity and depth. “Some people say zin is scary. I think zins a no-brainer, crush it, ferment it, squeeze it, put it in a bottle and you are on your way.” As Peachy Canyon’s zinfandel success grew, they were able to purchase vineyards and today produce vineyard designates. “I take a lot of pride in acknowledging that I think we are the best in the area,” Doug said. Their latest project, the Davis block, was started 15 years ago as a collaboration with University of California, Davis. They collected bud wood throughout the state from only vineyards “that were certified to be over 100 years old,” Doug said. Peachy Canyon was one of three to get the wood. “2015 was the first release of the Davis Block, $85 a bottle, 30

July/August 2018

it sold out in 10 minutes,” Doug said. “We just doubled our production, we are up to 50 cases. That is the max we will get. Last year was our first crop in 8 years, we have been working on it that long. We just never got enough fruit to where we thought we could make a nice wine.”

Winery moves

Doug and Nancy still head the winery and their sons also play a big part in the family business. Josh and Jake started the successful Chronic Cellars label and sold it to Winery Exchange in 2014. Over the years, both worked at Peachy Canyon, Josh as winemaker and Jake on the sales side of the business. Josh and Jake are poised to take over the day-to-day operations of Peachy Canyon. “Our plan is for them next year to come and take over ownership as well as management,” said Doug, who is in his 70s. “I’m really ready to phase out.” But not totally. “Not on the PR side,” Doug said. “I’ll go all over the world for the brand.” Peachy Canyon’s story is important to the Becketts. “I want to perpetuate that story — of the family, of the marriage that lasted through all of this, the kids who are great businessmen and great winemakers, and their really cool husbands and great dads, and so the goal is for them to come in,” Doug said.

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