Social engagement

Nilorn participated in two initiatives by the German Aid by Trade Foundation – The Good Cashmere Standard® and Cotton made in Africa.

THE GOOD CASHMERE STANDARD® The Good Cashmere Standard® is an independent standard for sustainably produced cashmere wool. Developed in 2019 in close collaboration with animal welfare specialists and independent cashmere production experts, its goal is to improve the wellbeing of cashmere goats and the working conditions of the farmers as well as the environment in which they live. The standard focuses on cashmere production in Inner Mongolia and in 2020 the first cashmere farmers were certified according to the requirements set by the standard. Eight cashmere producers with 4,300 farms and around 1.2 million cashmere goats participated in the verification process.

A certificate can only be issued upon verification by the independent auditing company Elevate. Before verification, each farm is required to complete a self-assessment encompassing more than 50 points. In addition, farmers and cashmere producers must meet social, environmental and animal welfare criteria. They are also subject to certain exclusion criteria. If this process is completed successfully, the producers receive a certificate that is reviewed on an annual basis and reissued only if they pass the verification process again. The certificate authorises them to label the cashmere produced by the verified farms with the seal of The Good Cashmere Standard®. Training materials are being developed for farmers and producers, taking into consideration the results of the self-assessments and verifications. The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS) and Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) are administered by the Hamburg-based Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF), founded by Prof. Dr. Michael Otto in 2005. Instead of collecting donations, an alliance of textile companies and brands is formed, which purchases the sustainable raw material at normal market prices and pays a licence fee to use the seal. The foundation reinvests income from licenses in accordance with its foundation goals.

’We know that training material is necessary for the successful and sustainable implementation of a standard. Overall, the verifications painted a positive picture of the situation on the ground, but some areas still require improvement, for example the goat shelters or the continuous record keeping of farm activities. We are working with our partners and animal welfare experts to develop training material and find out what else will help the farmers to implement the criteria of The Good Cashmere Standard® to an even greater extent’, says Tina Stridde, Managing Director of the Aid by Trade Foundation.

By using the Good Cashmere Standard® label, partnering brands can communicate to the consumer that the cashmere wool in this product has been produced sustainably. Nilorn is proud to be a nominated producer of all standard labels.

COTTON MADE IN AFRICA

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is an internationally recognised standard for sustainable cotton from Africa. Since its creation in 2005, CmiA has set for itself the goal to protect the environment and help Sub-Saharan African smallholder cotton farmers and ginnery workers improve their living and working conditions. Instead of collecting donations, the initiative follows the principle of helping people help themselves through trade. Nilorn has been a partner of the initiative for 8 years.

To put this aim into practice, an alliance of international textile companies and brands, built up by CmiA, purchases CmiA-verified cotton, integrate it into their textile value chains and pay a license fee to use the seal. Income from licensing fees is reinvested by CmiA to achieve its mission – enabling smallholder farmers to grow cotton in accordance with CmiA values, improving their living conditions and those of their families, and securing the preservation of natural resources.

A major challenge facing smallholder cotton farmers is a lack of knowledge on how to handle pesticides. Pesticides are often used, stored, and disposed of improperly, creating a dangerous situation for both people and the environment.

For this reason, Cotton made in Africa strictly regulates pesticide use. Additionally, CmiA promotes botanical pesticides and natural fertilisers, such as compost or manure, which are examples of environmentally friendly and cost-efficient measures contributing to sustainable agriculture. The locally available pesticides and fertilisers used provide environmentally friendly alternatives that are easy to produce. The necessary ingredients can be found all around the villages and cotton fields, free of charge, and can be processed by the smallholder farmers themselves using simple machines and household utensils. Expenditure on chemical pesticides and synthetic fertilisers can also be reduced. This benefits both people and nature.