Volume #5 £10
BRICKS
FEATURING - KELIA ANNE/TAYLOUR ONEY /TROY ALLEN/ALEX GREELY/ BRENYCE WATSON/ISLAY PETRIE/ NINA NAHITCHEVANSKY
Images courtesy of Kimberley Dhollander.
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Images courtesy of KIMBERLEY DHOLLANDER.
Volume#5 Creative Director
Editor
Writer
RYLIE HEALY
NICOLE NG
SHANIYA SHABRACH-ORTIZ
Styling
Lifestyle
TRANISE SHARPE
ELIZABETH FUCCI
Troy Allen, Emily Luking, Sam Roberts, Angel Emmanuel, Abi Lieheimer, Madison Heim, Taylour Oney, Isabel Lewis, Paige MacCready, Paris Mumpower, Kelia Anne, Jess Farran, Islay Petrie, Delia Wade, Luke Eckyl, Lucy Elan, Brenyce Watson, Gilbert, Taylor Williams, Anael Flores, Nina, Kharlybia Roane, Nelle & Sara Iocovozzi, John Reese, William Kesling
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Cover Image Nelle & Sara Iocovozzi wears hand knit dresses by Angel Emmanuel Photographed by Jess Farran, styled by Rylie Healy hair and make-up by Alex Greely
Distributed by Pineapple Media www.bricksmagazine.co.uk Twitter and Instagram: @Bricks_Magazine Published by Bricks Magazine 10 Little Ann Street Bristol BS2
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the publisher. Bricks welcomes all submissions, for artwork guidelines please visit our website.
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fashion loves
young renaissance (WO)men VOLUME #5 Spring 2016
For this edition of BRICKS I wanted to merge both the digital and paper forms of the magazine. Giving the magazine a variety of articles, artists, and do-ers of the millennial generation.
When first developing the concept for this volume I wanted to shop. I assure you these fine individuals are some of the most continue collaborating with one another as students. Learning determined and ingenious I have had the pleasure of working along the way a more in depth look of how we as creatives think along side with. I hope you enjoy their work as much as I do. differently . With a range of fascinating artists, from Troy Allens collection casted over drone footage to a vintage airstream pop-up
Editors Letter
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Selected Volume 5 contributors demonstrate a variety of works and how they are impacting the industry.
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The Previews
Bricks
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10: Tender
Gilbert Browne shows Bricks his soft side.
14: Young Renaissance Bricks collaborates with Artists on the Rise.
34: Red Rose Vintage Entrepreneur Amy Rose ntroduces her vintage mobile store based in Charleston, South Carolina.
40: Geminate Upcoming designer Angel Emmanuel features his latest work with twins Nelle & Sara Iocovozzi.
54: Lucy Taylour Oney photographs model Lucy in daaa rink.
60: Nina
Photographer Isabel Lewis shoots the delicate, but sexy Nina.
72: Shotgun
Brick collaborates with Troy Allen and Islay Petrie to create a story with William Keslings drone footage.
84: Anael
Emerging photographer Paige Maccready shoots the beautiful Anael.
92: Abi’s Treasure
Abi Leirheimer shares her latest collection created in Hong Kong.
94: Islay
contents
Images courtesy of KIMBERLEY DHOLLANDER.
TENDER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILBERT BROWNE Gilbert Browne is a photo major and has always been a very imaginative and creative child. Being in the closet at an all boys boarding school, shaped him into the artist he is today. His style started out very dark and conceptual because of the place he was at in his life. He focused on self portraits for 3 years, which helped him learn how to pose and focus on best angles. This experience gave him the ability to understand both sides of the lens and how to interact with models when shooting. His style now is moving out of pastel phase and into a more eccentric and quirky, yet chic high fashion feel. His ideal job would be creative director for a magazine, where he could do styling, photography, and thinking of concepts for shoots. Ideally, he’d like to be in control of everything.
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Bricks
“I predominately did self portraits because I wasn’t about to ask the straight guys at my all boys boarding school to model for me”.
“I think the most recent Met Gala theme is going to be the biggest influence in the future. I believe we are going to be seeing a lot of tech related fashion. Even though science isn’t really my forte, if i can be the person shooting the technology and making it look good, then I’m all for it”.
motion
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Young renaissance (WO)men All writing by
SHANIYA SHABRACH-ORTIZ
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Bricks
In developing this volume of Bricks, we introduce to you a collaboration composed of talented individuals. Varying from upcoming designers, captivating models, authentic graphic designers, and innovative photographers. These individuals are gifted in numerous artistic areas, allowing them to be at the forefront of their focus. They have come together to create original and inventive work that stimulates the mind. This is just the beginning for these Artists on the Rise.
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Emily Luking Emily Luking is a fiber artist from Ellicott City, Maryland. She is currently a senior at Savannah College of Art and Design. She is inspired by all things female, including the feminine form, the ongoing fight for equality, and the achievements of women she admires in the past, the present, and in her personal life. Her work is visceral, tactile, and playful. When she isn’t machine knitting feminist sweaters she crochets, weaves, sews, and uses digital applications to create surface designs.
Q: What was your original idea when first developing the sweater? A: I was really caught up in all things feminist. I had just got done making a series of 10 samples for feminists photos, which were based off of individual women. This pushed me in the direction of addressing the idea of feminism as a whole and what it means to me. I also wanted to make something monumental, playing with the feelings of angst, and the overwhelming feeling of oppression. Q: What techniques and materials did you use? A: The whole sweater is made out of acrylic yarn, along with the embroidery of the letters. The body of the sweater, the cuffs, and the collar were all machine knit. Q: What’s your aesthetic behind your garments as a whole? A: My aesthetic has always been excess. I like to have the mood of the piece feel overwhelming. Whether it’s overwhelming in the attention to detail, materials, or the color, just the sense of too much in the piece. This has always been apart of who I am. I overwhelm myself with my own ambitions and mood swings.
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Q: Can you go more in depth about when SCAD took the sweater? A: I was unaware at the fact that SCAD had taken my sweater to photograph. I previously photographed it on some guys with the idea of this is your punishment, you’re gonna have to wear this. For SCAD’s shoot they put two girls in it. However, the girls were super feminine and were doing gentle and sexy vogue like poses. By doing that type of posing, it was missing the point of what the piece was truly about: strength and overcoming the stereotype. Q: What direction would you have to go? A: I would have wanted to go with stronger poses for example, looking the camera dead in the eye. The women specifically challenging the viewer to think “am I really gentle”? Giving a sense of strength and composure to the overall feel of the photo shoot.
young renaissance
Photography by KELIA ANNE Creative direction by RYLIE HEALY
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“Humans are fascinating in the way we interact with our thoughts, bodies, and the world around� Emily Luking
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young renaissance
Madison Heim
Madison Heim is a fibers artist who grew up somewhere between Texas and Missouri. Moving several times during her childhood taught her the importance of diversity as a young adult. She has a Bachelors of Fine Arts Degree in Fibers at Savannah College of Art and Design. In the summer of 2015 she traveled to Boone, North Carolina to intern for a start up company that developed portable respirators. That company showed her the love of product design and took her to China where she was able to see her designs become manufactured. Through her travels, she discovered her passion of exploring and dissecting our diverse world to redefine it in her artwork. She enjoys working collaboratively and learning new techniques that help her develop into a more resourceful creator.
Photography by YONG CHEN Creative direction by NICOLE NG Featuring by KHARLYBIA ROANE
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Madison Heim
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John Reese John Reese aka Reesio Del Juan is a Hilton Head Island native began his journey in the industry in 2008. After receving his BFA in Graphic Design, unsure of where to go with his field he moved to Charleston, South Carolina three years ago where the art scene is continually thriving and found his passion in paint and grafitti. In this hilarious yet insightful interview, we bring you a fellow who is as humble and vigourous as they come. So, how did you get into art? Has it always been a passion of yours? Art has always been a part of my life. As a child I was always doodling during class. Even though I did okay in high school, I just never took school that seriously. After taking the SAT for the fourth time, without breaking 1000, I decided to apply to Art school. My mom convinced me that I should apply, after she found one of my random doodles on the back of a study guide for Economics. I ended up getting my Bachelors of Fine Arts in Graphic Design. However, it wasn’t until three years ago, when I moved to Charleston, that I began to figure out what direction I wanted to take with my art. What inspired the infamous eggs? When I was in school in Atlanta, I always had a carton of eggs chilling in the fridge. I love eggs because you can do so much with them. I relate to eggs: my thoughts are always scrambled and I’m sure I’ve fried my brain a time or two. How would you describe your work in one sentence?
When developing any form of art on whatever canvas you may be using i.e walls, canvas, what are you inspired by? My inspiration for a canvas piece is usually in the moment. Either from something I’ve seen, requests related to commissioned work, or something going on in my head at the time. Art is a great vice. As far as graffiti/street art, my knowledge and inspiration has come from my snake farm family and my artistic friends here in Charleston. Shoutout to onon, mEGGan, nend, eymer, tsuji, umuh, bear, lameo, darf, and WH?T. What does your work mean to you and your life specifically? My work means everything! It feels great making a name for myself and giving myself something to be proud of. I hope to take art as far as I can and do this till I grow old. It’s brought a lot of joy and purpose back in my life, that I thought I’d lost.
I consider my work to be an expression of my thoughts and observations; ranging from serious to whimsical, it’s a reflection of the way I see the world. Have people asked you before to commission work for them? Yes, people have asked me to commission work for them, but I can’t quit my day job yet hehe.
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young renaissance
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Red Rose Vintage
This eccentric, vibrant, and soulful entrepreneur makes you feel a part of the cool girl gang. With her warm welcome to her get it done spirit, Amy is paving the way for young business owners with her renovated 1970’s airstream “The Dreamstream”. When sitting down with her I could almost feel her creative energy seep into my pores. Her drive and compassion for her customers is something other up and coming retailers seem to be lacking. This rad designer is on her way to big things. When starting this venture, did you want to open up a boutique because you loved vintage clothing or were you always eco friendly and you realized this was a way to recycle and minimize waste and pollution? When I started it, was more towards the boutique route. I’ve always wanted a store in Charleston. I moved here 5 years ago and there were so many charming local shops on King Street. However, the rent for a boutique has just sky rocketed, so while a mobile store is a great idea, it came down to being the only available option for me. My favorite part about is how eco friendly it truly is, the whole van is recycled. How do you decide what is good quality vintage wear and whats the process behind it? My buyer delivers me a load of vintage pieces, I strip everything down to the bare minimum. I turn everything inside out, check all the buttons, zippers, and get it professionally cleaned. I’ll go for pieces that appeal to the eye. I look for a sense of uniqueness and good quality. On certain ones, I’ll leave them distressed or scuffed because it adds character. I also try every piece on to see how it fits and looks on the body. When my buyer
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delivers, I have 4 days to tell them what I want. So I’ll put it on social media and ask what do you guys think of this? I believe it is always important to listen to your customers and their opinions. When shopping vintage, you have to have a certain eye for it, and be wary of fabric and design. Where do you get your vintage pieces from? Do you have a certain area or a specific seller? My pieces all come from a professional buyer, who use to own 4 vintage clothing stores in Atlanta. She now buys for a few people in town. She mainly gets the pieces from private sales. I sell mainly eighties and nineties pieces and I like to have a piece here and there that goes back to the fifties and sixties. I definitely have a younger demographic, so you’ll see for example crop tops and high cut swimsuits. However, I try to keep a variety and have things for a little girl, to an older mom, to a man. In this area, nobody likes to sell eighties because its still so “new”. They say Charleston is ten years behind the times, so I’ve got a long way to go.
young renaissance
What was the inspiration behind Dreamstream? What hurdles have you had to overcome since starting it? When I was living in San Diego, I saw a mobile store and I fell in love with the idea. I spent 5 years doing research and emailing my parents old vehicles. I ended up going with a 1976 air stream RV and named it in the Dreamstream. The whole concept is very non traditional, super convenient, and allows me to go wherever my customers are. I have had to overcome many obstacles with my mobile store. Charleston is very strict about new businesses, they’re so many rules and regulations. The amount of permits, letters, and licensees was insane. Another hurdle is that it’s a very niche market. You have to find somebody that not only falls in love with the piece, but also somebody that fits it properly. Because each item is for a specific person, many of the pieces will sit in the shop for a long time. The last hurdle I’ve had to overcome is that it’s just been me. I do everything when it comes to my businesses: all the driving, I keep up with the online store, and shop with my buyer. It’s been tough doing it on my own, but my family has been my biggest supporters in all of this.
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What is your favorite era? My favorite era is the eighties. I am inspired by those swim suit competitions on the beach. I love how the eighties made really unique pieces and people weren’t afraid to try out different shapes and silhouettes. I do also love to carry 90’s pieces as well. However, the 90’s are still considered “too new”. People think of the nineties as used clothing and not necessarily as vintage.
What is your next goal for Red Rose Vintage and Dreamstream? Ultimately, I would love to have like 5 or 6 mobile stores. I want to take over the South and have them in cities like Durham, Charlotte, Savannah, and Asheville. Eventually I would also like to have ones that focus on menswear. I also think it’d be great to add on an outside display with a rug, a chair, and a rack to help draw attention and bring people in. This whole first year is just going to be trial and error. I still don’t have the dream spots narrowed down and at this point its
just about testing out different locations and times. I still call myself a new entrepreneur. I learn new things everyday and have grown so much in the process. It has been such an adventure and I can’t wait to see where it takes me. Its just about taking risks and seeing where life take you.
Photography by Rylie Healy
Photography by JESS FERRAN Styling by RYLIE HEALY
GEMI NATE Angel Emmanuel is a senior fibers major at the Savannah College of Art and Design and has always been involved with the arts. When he was younger and would have very creative ideas and would use that as a way to express himself. He then went on to attend an art high school where he was in production design with a concentration in costume design. When it came to picking colleges and choosing his major, it became a tough decision because he was unhappy with those two fields of study. His teachers realized he wanted more control over his designs and suggested he look into fibers because he was very conceptual and a lot of his work looked into different prints and structures.
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When it comes to developing a collection, there isn’t really a specific culture or era that Angel keeps in mind. One of his new collections, my day dream in Hong Kong was inspired by his time studying abroad there and how he removed himself from any access to fibers. He didn’t have any of his floor looms or a digital printer. This really helped him to
break out of his comfort zone and create something very new and original. Instead of cultures or eras, he typically tends to draw himself to color first when it comes to developing collections. Angels factory is inspired by Andy Warhol’s factory. Andy surrounded himself with other artists and designers, and used them as muses. He would always invite them over to his factory, where they would work, but also enjoy one another’s company. Angel wants to convey that same message in his factory. It’s a celebration of the work he’s done here at SCAD, but its also a celebration of the collaborations with other artists. He is now able to document his work because these collaborations helped bring his vision to life. So its not just a celebration of him, but of everyone who has been involved in the process. One of the biggest challenges Angel has had to face in his four years at SCAD, was trying to figure out what area he wanted to go into. Trying to find jobs is difficult because he is such a
conceptual designer. His overall goal, is to create his own market because he doesn’t want to remold himself. Finding the balance between staying true to his aesthetic and not being too avant guard isn’t always the easiest. However, his day dream in Hong Kong collection can be seen as a more commercial feel, due to his mature floating warps when it comes to the weaving and crazy colors. He feels it’s more wearable for everyone so with this particular collection he found balance between the two. Angel hopes that our generation will pick up where those power houses of the nineties left off. Fashion use to be at the forefront and was dominating the world. Now, it’s getting lost behind social media. He wants the new generation,millennial’s, to take that back. Now a lot of people are trying to explore different ways of creating their visions and make a name for themselves. He hopes to continue on with his collaborations and have his own factory.
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“ I hope that our generation will pick up where the nineties power houses left off. Fashion used to be the forefront and was dominating the world. Now, its getting lost behind social media�. Angel Emmanuel, Designer
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Lucy
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Photography by Taylour Oney Designs by Sam Roberts Styling by Rylie Healy Make-up by Samson Featuring Lucy Elam
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Top by [DESIGNER], shirt by [DESIGNER], cardigan by [DESIGNER], shoes by [DESIGNER].
Top by [DESIGNER], shirt by [DESIGNER], cardigan by [DESIGNER], shoes by [DESIGNER].
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NINA
Photography by ISABEL LEWIS, styling by RYLIE HEALY, assisted by NICOLE NG hair and make-up by IVONNE RIVAS, featuring model NINA.
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Garments, VINTAGE LINGERIE AND VICTORIA’ SECRET
“A woman can be both light and airy yet sultry and sexy when she wants to be...”
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- Editor Rylie Healy
SHOTGUN
Garments by TROY ALLEN Projections by WILL KESLING Photography by ISLAY PETRIE Styling by RYLIE HEALY Make-up by ALEX GREELY Styling assisted by NICOLE NG Featuring BRENYCE WATSON & GILBERT BROWNE 70
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Top by [DESIGNER], shirt by [DESIGNER], cardigan by [DESIGNER], shoes by [DESIGNER].
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ANAEL
Photography by PAIGE MACCREADY GIF by PARIS MUMPOWER Hair and make-up by LAURA CASAL Styling by RYLIE HEALY Assisted by TRANISE SHARPE Featuring ANAEL FLORES 82
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ABI’S
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TREASURE
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ISLAY JOY PETRIE
“This purple haired vixen is one of the most ambitious ladies you’ll ever meet. Not only did she single handedly film Abi Liberheimer’s Hong Kong inspired collection, but she is also an advertising major, photographer and model. Islay is setting the tone for aspiring creatives in the industry. “ 92
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Abi Lieheimer abilierheimer.com/fashion.html
Islay Petrie vimeo.com/user44511786
Ahael Flores
Jess Farran jessfarran.com
Angel Emmanuel angelemmanuel.com Brenyce Watson
Kelia Anne kelianne.com Kharlybia Roane
Paige MacCready paigemaccready.com Paris Mumpower parismumpower.com Sam Roberts samrobertstextiles.com
Lucy Elam
Taylour Oney taylour-oney.format.com
Luke Eckyl
Taylor Williams
Gilbert Browne gilbertbrowne.com
Madison Heim http://www.madisonheim.com
Troy Allen troyallen.us
Isabel Lewis isabellewis.format.com/portraits
Nelle & Sara Iocovozzi
Yong Chen
Delia Wade Emily Luking http://www.emilyluking.com
address book
Nina