AS WELL by Nick Glover Photography

WELCOME As Well seeks to continue the conversations started by movements like #MeToo

and #TimesUp about the long embedded issues of sexual assault and harassment in the fashion modeling industry.

Models live and work in an environment that many would describe as glamorous. They're seen as beautiful, dressed in expensive clothing, and a vehicle for art or sale of goods. However, some behaviors from photographers, clients, casting directors, agents, stylists, etc that are seen as "just the way it goes" in the fashion world would be completely inappropriate and unprofessional in almost any other industry. Consent is almost never an option. Models are the clothes hanger, the canvas, the brand in a magazine or runway show. Their hair is fixed, clothes are pulled down, and told to move their body in a specific way. Models lose control of their bodies and images the moment the shutter is clicked. The archive of a shoot will always exist. Speaking out is difficult. If you feel uncomfortable in a situation you often have to decide if being grabbed a few times is worth losing the job over. Models are seen as dispensable and easy to replace. Even girls who walk for dozens of shows or appear in massive campaigns can be cut the moment someone feels threatened. I created this publication to continue to expose these issues. Models deserve better. Fashion deserves better. The #MeToo movement only gained traction because those who spoke out had the power to make change. Victims without fame or recognition are drowned out but should be given the same platform and respect. This publication features a collection of relevant articles, interviews from models and other professionals in the industry, photography, and augmented reality technology to share these stories.

Thank you to everyone who chose to share their story, perspective, body, art, and images for this project. I hope you enjoy As Well. Nick Glover

TABLE OF CONTENTS

WORDS 10 The Fashion Industry's Complicity With Sexual Abuse Sucks

24 How Fashion Failed to Confront its #MeToo Moments

14 Who Are You Wearing?

30 Males in #MeToo

20 The Male Gaze in Fashion

34 We Are Not Just Soft, Pretty Things

FEATURES 40 A.G.

78 A.B.

48 M.R.

84 T.L.

54 S.V.

90 F.H.

60 D.S.

96 R.F.

66 M.J.

102 The Blacklist

72 M.D.F.

108 Closing Words 110 Credits

1 WORDS

The Fashion Industry's Complicity With Sexual Abuse Sucks by Caryn Franklin

Here we are, mid-way through an investigation into why women didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stand up to the bloated self-importance of yet another sex predator, this time the disgraced film producer Harvey Weinstein. Women could have, should have, said more? Women let it happen... again? Women will have to wait until there are a few more female CEOs to prevent further gender assault in the workplace? Stuff that. Systems where a sense of entitlement fuels the knowing exploitation of the many by the few are in part responsible for this messed-up situation. But gender politics and the privilege of masculinity to experience the culture of male predator/female prey as normal, or observe other disparities such as the pay gap as inevitable, are just as culpable. As Lena Dunham declares her sorrow for complicity (she found herself shaking hands with Weinstein at a Hillary Clinton fundraiser, even though she knew what he was capable of), she asks to hear from male film stars examining their own complicit support of the ongoing gender order. Taps fingers on table. Shuffles a bit... are there any takers? That isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t to say that men donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t suffer too. So as male stories of abuse of power surface, can we count on guys to gather with us in collective reflection towards progress? Women talk so that they can warn other women and of course they tell their male friends so EVERYONE knows there are many more Weinsteins and Saviles out there. Some of us even publish what we can (libel laws permitting) in national newspapers and, although lawyers impose a partial gagging order preventing us from telling the story as it is, we attempt to say our piece, outing known predators on the evening news as I did on Channel 4 primetime in May 2014. There was a flurry of press from other female writers and then... nothing. Not being able to tell the story had me doubting my entitlement to comment, and I found myself reduced to visiting a prominent art director to pressure him to exclude said predator from the magazine contributor list and scratching my head for other ways to be effective.

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Numerous allegations describe international photographer Terry Richardson routinely asking women to strip for his photo shoots and then reportedly getting naked himself and attempting to initiate a sexual act. This tactic sends the same message used with impunity by all self-important fully supported predators – ‘If you want this break, you must comply with my sexual demands.’ And I’m very late to the current but long-term campaign against Richardson, as a plethora of anti-Richardson stories on the internet dating back to 2001 will testify. Numerous accounts by women who report that he objectified and assaulted them, as well as coerced and manipulated them into sex, reveal that fashion has a big complicity problem too. Just as Weinstein has many awards to his name, Richardson has worked with dozens of luxury designers and most of the top fashion magazines, not to mention portrait commissions for Obama, Oprah Winfrey, Pharrell Williams and many more. But why should someone who publishes images of himself in the public domain as naked and masturbating, naked and copulating in numerous positions, naked with erection proudly displayed or engaging in cunnilingus and biting a tampon string – even being fellated by a young woman with the word SLUT written on her forehead – ever be allowed to work with young models? In an interview as far back as 2007 with Hint magazine, Richardson happily confirmed his role of honest pervert: “Like I've always said, it's not who you know, it's who you blow. I don't have a hole in my jeans for nothing.” Now fashion’s best-known models will take no more. Christy Turlington has spoken out on how widespread sexual abuse and harassment is in the fashion industry, 12

highlighting the way fashion and of course other freelance creative set-ups can insulate and disempower the individual. “The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers,” she told WWD. As model and activist Cameron Russell calls for other models to share their stories under the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse, she recounts her own experiences: “Non consensual kisses, spanks, gropes, and pinches. Failing to provide adequate changing space, shaming in response to requests for adequate changing space. Bullying by editors, photographers, stylists, and clients to go topless or nude. Publishing nudity after contractually agreeing not to. Non consensual massage. Inappropriate emails, text messages, and phone calls. Pressure while underage to consume alcohol. Being directed to 'pretend like I'm your boyfriend.' Being forced to sleep at the photographer's home rather than provided a hotel. Having my job threatened if I don't participate. Being called difficult, feminist, virgin, diva when speaking up or saying no. Being unclear about boundaries because so many boundaries have been crossed. I lose count. And this is only what's easy to share, what's as commonplace as 9am call times, fittings, and lunch." Overstepping those boundaries, as Edie Campbell – one of the UK’s best-known faces – points out, is murky territory in the minds of predators. "When we go on set, we enter into an unspoken contract: for that day we give our bodies and our faces over to the photographer, stylist, hairdresser, makeup artist. We give up ownership for that day. The power imbalance is huge, and the duty of care to that model is even greater as a result."

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"When we go on set, we enter into an unspoken contract: for that day we give our bodies and our faces over to the photographer, stylist, hairdresser, makeup artist. We give up ownership for that day. The power imbalance is huge, and the duty of care to that model is even greater as a result."

But boundaries will continue to be transgressed when professional conduct is abandoned and others stand by in complicitous silence. Perhaps questioning how complicity thrives might help. Is immersion in a culture that routinely objectifies women as eroticised embellishments clinging to the edges of an androcentric system, and the disempowered sense of worth that follows, to blame for the lack of angry female voices every time a Weinstein strikes? The assumption by so many young girls that they have somehow brought this on themselves, that women have to put up with this to earn a crust, must be tackled now. Meanwhile the benefits that boys and men receive from a culture where women are presented as scantily dressed and sexually available to serve the male gaze, while assuring them that all is as it should be, needs to be shot down in flames. Current listings of top fashion photographers are very male-heavy. In other words, not much room for girl gaze and women consciously shooting women to bring a different perspective. The psychology of objectification helps us to understand the mindset we all enter into and can all mindfully step out of again. When presented with images of unclothed bodies in studies, participants associated both male and female models with diminished mental states and reduced personhood. In other

words, we form patterns of thought that influence our perceptions of others. Objectification effects depersonalisation in both genders but as image-making features greater numbers of objectified women (a confirmation of who is behind the lens, perhaps), we have access to new protocol. I’m not naïve – this will take time – but as the only Professor of Diversity in Fashion (in front of the lens and behind it), I spend my time mentoring young creatives to understand the territory of image and identity politics by offering insight to both young male and female practitioners so they can choose to action a better, aspirational narrative for us all once out in the commercial world. And in doing so they can develop a practice that respects all serviceproviders, especially models, for their individual contribution. Disrupting visual culture or addressing self-esteem issues in the field may not seem like a heroic or immediate solution, but as a powerful taste leader, fashion can move into new areas of cool to influence others. And fashion must name its own predators. With agreement from us all that, from this moment on, complicity is the epitome of uncool. (Originally published in Refinery29 on October 19th 2017)

WHO ARE YOU WEARING?

TEXT: NATALY KEOMOUNGKHOUN

In 1995, Joan Rivers changed the dynamics of red carpet reporting with one question: “who are you wearing?” It was an unusual question, but it was one that every audience member at home was thinking. The question paid homage to the designer, gave reporters another thing to ask on the red carpet, and quite honestly, gave Rivers something else to talk about. The frequency of the question only grew from there, and the audience expected it to be asked and for stars on the red carpet to answer. Stars became fearful of being asked the question, and programs like “Fashion Police” became a ‘gotcha game’ for people like Rivers to make fun of celebrity outfits. That culture easily flowed onto the red carpet. The question was always looming, and it was almost always directed toward female celebrities. Nearly two decades later, The Representation Project, an organization dedicated to changing gender stereotypes, started a hashtag campaign that changed the way reporters and audience members saw the red carpet. The hashtag was called #AskHerMore, signifying a call-to-action for red carpet reporters to do just that: ask female celebrities about more than what they were wearing. Female stars supported the movement by denying questions that were directed toward the superficial – their clothes and looks. Jennifer Aniston refused to participate in E!’s notorious “Mani Cam”, a camera that showed off manicures, and stars Reese Witherspoon and Natalie Portman supported #AskHerMore by ignoring the question and making posts on social media.

It’s been five years since the introduction of #AskHerMore, but the topic has evolved into much more than the question ‘who are you wearing?’ As reporters and celebrities of the entertainment industry dodge the question, it pushes another industry out of view: fashion. The red carpet is one of the biggest fashion platforms, and fashion designers, stylists and students are denied that recognition as reporters and celebrities avoid the question. The question is no longer ‘who are you wearing?’ – it’s now a delicate balance between satisfying the public’s insatiable need to know what the stars were wearing and respecting the celebrities. But now that any question can make or break a journalist’s and a fashion designer’s career, does that question still matter? At the height of red carpet reporting, entertainment segments and publications were equally featuring fashion in their coverage. Shows revolved around the what the audience wanted, and what the audience wanted was light conversation that was focused on fashion. Becky Brooks, a former producer for programming on CBS, says that in order to get the views, the needs of the audience had to come first, not the stars. “You have to think about your audience and who comes to you and sees your content,” said Brooks. “On Entertainment Tonight, we know that our viewers come to us to be informed on the latest celebrity news.” When #AskHerMore began to make moves among celebrities, Brooks said that not much changed in the way reporters were asking questions. It wasn’t until the Time’s Up Movement that really affected the way the red carpet was looked at and reported on. The Time’s Up Movement evolved after Harvey Weinstein and other major players in Hollywood were accused of sexual misconduct in the industry. Women like Ashley Judd, Rose McGowan and Gwyneth Paltrow came forward with their experiences, and Hollywood rallied together to form an army against the industry. In one unanimous move, every major star on the red carpet wore black for the 2018 Golden Globes. Now, fashion was being used as a political statement, but coincidentally, the last question any reporter wanted to ask was ‘who are you wearing?’ However, on a platform where fashion has held precedence for the last two decades, that question still matters. Brad Goreski, a celebrity stylist, says that sometimes, a designer’s career depends on that question. He also says that Hollywood and fashion are two worlds that consistently work together on a daily basis. “There's a 360 relationship that happens between the designer and the celebrity,” Goreski said. “The designers work a really long time and they put their entire liaison on hold to create a certain dress or a certain look for a celebrity.” According to Entertainment Tonight red-carpet correspondent Keltie Knight, celebrities pay homage to the work that designers go through in order to put a look together by answering that question. 16

“You have to think of the designers who spend their entire lives going to school and then becoming couture gown designers,” said Knight. “[You have to think of them] having a piece of their art walk down the Oscar red carpet and how important that is to them.” At the 2018 Golden Globes, designer Christian Siriano, a notable supporter of the Time’s Up Movement, created looks for 11 women. That’s why Knight still asks the question — not just for the audience, but for the sake of the designer’s career. “I respect the art of it so much that to me, it’s never offensive when I'm asking someone who they're wearing,” Knight said. It’s not easy, Knight says, especially given the current climate after #AskHerMore and Time’s Up. She says that publicists will sometimes stop reporters from asking certain questions that would be considered hard-hitting or thought-provoking, and the only questions left to ask are about clothes. Knight doesn’t have a problem with that, in fact, she argues that conversation on the red carpet is meant to be light and conversational, and that there’s a time and place for deeper questions to be asked. “A red carpet is really where it makes sense to keep it light and talk about the fashion and the fun and the festivities of it all,” Knight said. “When you're in a sit-down interview or a one on one, it's much easier to ask those really hard-hitting Oprah Winfrey-type questions.” And while it’s important to honor the celebrities, to Goreski, honoring the designers holds the same weight. “Even if you don't want to say it because want to be asked to other things, I think it's a nice way to thank the design house or the designer that has taken the time to put energy and money and everything into creating a look for you,” Goreski said. ‘Who are you wearing?’ does matter, and it’s still OK to ask. But Brooks says there’s a right way to go about asking the question that doesn’t tip the scale between the viewer and the celebrity. She calls it “honoring the movement and the viewer.” “You know immediately when someone comes up to you and what their frame of mind is,” Brooks said. “Ask [the celebrities] about why they’re there and what they’re promoting, then ask them questions out of respect of the viewer and the audience.” It’s strange that just one question could affect an entire industry, and that may not have been the way Joan intended it to be when she first asked the question back in 1995. But as Hollywood grew, the question evolved into a culture – one that took over entire spreads in magazines and turned into shows. It’s a question that has become a staple, and it’s one that will matter and will always be asked.

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The male gaze in fashion by ada quek originally published on The Saint

The Harvey Weinstein scandal opened up more explicit discussions about the problems in the fashion and film industry. Both industries are deeply intertwined, with fashion lending advice and products to the film industry, and the film industry giving fashion a brilliant platform for exposure and promotion. However, I would specifically like to talk about Weinstein, and how his relationship with fashion allowed him to get away with his terrible acts for so long. Weinstein and fashion do not seem to be a natural match; fashion is a female-dominated industry, with huge importance placed on appearances and presentations, and Weinstein was known as leering and disheveled. There are countless articles slamming women about not looking as poised and dignified on the red carpet, yet the fact that Weinstein, in the words of Amy Larocca, is “excused from the realm of expected behaviour” shows the privilege of men being able to disregard rules and live by their own. Weinstein’s close ties with fashion started with the nascence of the film industry — the placement of the first movie stars, such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Renée Zellweger, helped Vogue to dramatically increase their sales as Miramax’s success, the American film company operated by the Weinsteins, put its covers in the spotlight. Needless to say, being an actress on Vogue’s covers would cement a more lucrative and longterm career in such a competitive and cut-throat industry. With the intertwining of Weinstein and

Vogue, one sees Weinstein’s growth in power and invincibility, and so it is no surprise that young actresses and models would not want to risk offending (read: rejecting his sexual harassment) such a powerful man at the expense of their careers. Hence, for something as often feminised as the world of fashion, it is ironic but not surprising, that the fashion industry is shaped by the male gaze. In a recent (and iconic) video released by Vogue, which shows two of the most powerful and enigmatic female icons of the fashion and film industry, Anna Wintour and Meryl Streep (coincidentally the inspiration for this article), in which the latter candidly states, “We want girls to be free, we want them to be proud, we want them to be female… you put them in danger by not informing them about the male gaze and how it works on young girls”. This statement is not made lightly. Models and actors are enticed with passion, fame, and fortune, and yet are often subjected to unexpected consequences and danger. The interaction between fashion and society is dynamic and tightly intertwined, and one irrevocably influences the other. Society’s desires and goals strongly impact fashion, and the role of fashion in moulding the way society thinks and behaves is also crystal clear. Gucci’s decision to go fur-free from its Spring-Summer ’18 collection onwards is a reflection of a higher ethical consideration and a nod to technology (in being able to replicate the look, feel, and practical qualities of fur). Gucci’s decision will undoubtedly spark a change in the fur consumption in the fashion industry, which is estimated to be about £30.2 billion annually. Likewise, the male gaze on younger players in the fashion industry shapes how society views them, and thus interacts with them.

For those confused about what the male gaze entails, it is the act of portraying the world and its subjects, especially women, in an objectifying and sexualised manner, and we see this a lot in the world of fashion. The controversial Marc Jacobs ‘Oh, Lola!’ advertisement featured an underaged Dakota Fanning in a white/ baby pink, sheer polka dotted dress — evoking associations with innocence and purity — staring coyly at the camera with a giant perfume bottle in between her legs. The ‘artistic’ direction of this advertisement closely follows Vladimir Nabokov’s novel Lolita, which is about an older man’s sexual relationship with a child, explicitly confined by Jacobs’ view of Fanning in this advertisement as a “contemporary Lolita, seductive yet sweet”. The familiar adage of “sex sells” might just seem like another business tactic, but is “sex (between a young girl and a man old enough to be her grandfather) sells” a value that should be accepted and promoted in mainstream media? The dissemination of such an image in magazines, billboards in malls, train stations, and on buildings, and across the Internet on online magazines, blogs, and several pages of Google images, is extremely problematic. This leads to widespread consumption of the image, and hence increases the normalisation of sexualising children, which apart from evoking instincts to retch, is extremely problematic, because it is basically advocating paedophilia, especially by an extremely prominent fashion brand that interacts with and influences countless young girls (and other people). In other words, it spreads the notion that looking at children in a sexual way is okay). This might allow more advertisements to advocate it, leading to more normalisation of paedophilia.

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The male gaze is not only directed at girls — it is an entrenched part of the fashion and media industry that even affects boys. The 26 year old model Ali Michael publicly directed a message on her Instastory to Finn Wolfhard, another child actor in Stranger Things, to “hit (her) up in 4 years”. Although she is technically proposing a relationship when he is of legal age, the fact that she is seeing him in a certain way when he is not at a legal age illustrates her sexual attraction to Wolfhard. This calls to mind instances of young girls getting cat-called or verbally preyed on by comments of “Wait till you turn 16/18.”. During a ComicCon panel interview, the interviewer Patton Oswalt made direct sexual comments to Wolfhard about his last name being “the greatest porn name ever”, and told him to not appear in anything called “Stranger Thongs”, disguised as jokes. Wolfhard and his co-stars all appeared visibly uncomfortable at the comments, which escalated to the point that Wolfhard explicitly told Oswalt to stop. Another disturbing instance of Wolfhard having to call out adults is when he told them to stop calling him ‘Daddy’, a sexualised term used to refer to one’s partner. In the film and fashion industry, children are already in places of vulnerability and look towards the more experienced adults for guidance and protection, yet we see that such figures of authority rarely fulfil those roles, and instead, abuse their powers and make the industry even more dangerous for children, as we see from the countless stories of paedophilia in such industries, such as the surfacing of sexual harassment of younger actors by Wolfhard’s ex-agent Tyler Grasham and Kevin Spacey. However, despite the deeply entrenched male gaze in fashion (and also the media), perhaps there is a lighter side, in that we acknowledge this problem and are taking steps

“We want girls to be free, we want them to be proud, we want them to be female… you put them in danger by not informing them about the male gaze and how it works on young girls”

towards solving the problem. The strong friendship that Anna Wintour and Harvey Weinstein forged in the late 1900s which fused the fashion and film industry so tightly did not cloud the former’s condemnation of the latter, as Wintour called Weinstein’s behaviour “appalling and unacceptable”. The model Cameron Russell has begun sharing stories about sexual abuse of young models in the fashion industry on her Instagram, and encouraged others to contribute their stories to force the industry to acknowledge the scope of this problem, instead of ignoring it like it has done for decades. Hence, it is arguable that this generation, and generations after that, are unafraid to call out the problems in such industries due to their interconnectedness to the Internet and all its broadcasting power. From countless, unforgiving tweets shaming sexual predators to powerful articles exposing powerful people, we have moved on from, as Meryl Streep would say, “the past” where “locker-room talk (and) just the way men are”, and onto a better future. 23

WORDS BY LAUREN SHARKEY

HOW FASHION FAILED TO CONFRONT ITS #METOO MOMENTS

In June, Ian Connor and A$AP Bari—two men accused of varying degrees of sexual assault—took their places on the front rows of two highly publicized fashion shows.

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The #MeToo movement has seen the careers of several notable figures torn to shreds. With the ever-growing list spanning Hollywood, politics, and the media, the fashion industry, too, has bore witness to sexual misconduct allegations against a number of renowned photographers. Bruce Weber, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, and Terry Richardson have all been accused of sexually exploiting models throughout their careers; allegations that each man has denied.Although the fashion world is still run by men, conglomerates like LVMH (which owns Louis Vuitton, Dior, Céline, Givenchy, and more) have pledged to fight gender inequality and prevent any further #MeToo-related incidents following damning reports by The New York Times and The Boston Globe in which several models—both male and female— made allegations against more than 20 fashion photographers, agents, stylists, and casting directors. Several Condé Nast International titles (including Vogue and GQ) and major brands like Valentino and Bulgari were also forced to respond to the crisis by publicly cutting ties with photographer and alleged sexual assaulter Richardson, as reported by The Daily Beast. But recent events have proved that the cracks in the industry’s supposed support of women are beginning to show. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier, who was accused of sexually inappropriate behavior by several women in February, is one of the few accused “old guard” continuing to work, having photographed shoots that appear in recent issues of Harper’s Bazaar Japan, Vogue Japan, and Vogue Australia. (Demarchelier called the claims against him “ridiculous.”). However, the careers of most have halted. For now. But the men belonging to fashion’s cooler streetwear crowd who have been accused of similar crimes have been slowly making a comeback over the past few months—with the apparent help of some of the industry’s top talent. In June, Ian Connor and A$AP Bari—two men who have been accused of varying degrees of sexual assault—took pride of place on the front row of two highly publicized Paris fashion shows. Twenty-five-year-old Connor was photographed at Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton menswear debut while Bari, 26, turned up at Dior. The pair were both later seen at the first runway show for Alyx—a hyped brand run by Matthew Williams, a close friend of Abloh and Kanye West. Before mapping out the duo’s carefully orchestrated return, it’s important to understand who Connor and Bari are and what they have been accused of. Connor hit the limelight aged 19 after being contacted by Abloh to work alongside him and West. Since then, he has reportedly worked as West’s creative consultant, moonlighting as a Yeezy model and stylist for the likes of Kylie Jenner. In April 2016, Malika Anderson became the first woman to accuse Connor of rape via a heartfelt blog post. Fast forward two months to women’s advocate Amber Rose telling The Daily Beast that 21 women had contacted her alleging to have been sexually assaulted and/or raped by Connor. Anderson filed a police report (that didn’t result in charges due to lack of evidence) but the other women were too afraid to take legal action. It’s easy to understand why considering Connor’s threatening behavior on social media which includes sending women who have labeled him a rapist abusive direct messages. Connor has denied the allegations on Twitter, writing: “Ain’t no coincidence I make my first big magazine cover for a bitch to make up allegations for her own self-esteem purposes.” Bari (real name Jabari Shelton) is one of the founders of renowned hip-hop collective, A$AP Mob, which also houses the likes of Dior campaign star A$AP Rocky and Tiffany and 26

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Valentino-endorsed A$AP Ferg. He is most wellknown, however, for his involvement with streetwear label VLONE which notably partnered up with Nike in 2017. Strangely enough, Bari and Connor have a tumultuous past. In June 2016, Bari was filmed punching Connor in Paris, later confronting him on social media about the rape allegations. A year later, Bari was facing sexual assault allegations of his very own after a video emerged of him and a woman in a hotel room. In a statement given to Billboard, he denied any allegation of misconduct, stating: “A misleading video clip featuring adult content and activity has been released to the public without my knowledge

“The fashion industry has been notoriously deaf to concerns about misogyny, sexual abuse, and feminism in general—except when feminism can be portrayed as sexy.” or consent. We have resolved this issue amicably among all parties as adults. We were friends before this and will remain friends afterwards. Being raised by strong women who taught me to respect everyone, I’m disappointed in the situation as well as myself and will reflect on the situation appropriately.” However, the incident led to a million dollar lawsuit by the woman in the video and Nike dropping the VLONE collaboration. Bari was also arrested and charged with two counts of sexual assault relating to the same video in the U.K. in June. He denied both charges with a trial set to take place on Jan. 2 next year. Both Bari and Connor are firmly in fashion’s It crowd; a group which includes hailed designers, rappers, and Instagram-famous twentysomethings. It is Abloh, the founder of Off-White and recently appointed artistic director of Louis

Vuitton’s menswear, who continues to be Connor’s champion. Scroll through the designer’s Twitter account and you’ll find various photos of Connor along with promotions of his footwear brand, Revenge x Storm, which launched in September 2016 and reportedly netted the 25year-old over $500,000 in just three hours. Connor’s Instagram account (which boasts 1.1 million followers) also features photos of the pair and him modeling in an under-the-radar OffWhite campaign that is said to have been published in i-D magazine after the allegations surfaced. Despite having plenty of his own designs to choose from, Abloh wears items made by Connor for high-profile interviews. In a recent conversation with Naomi Campbell for British Vogue, the 37-year-old was spotted in a white hoodie with neon green lettering reading “Sicko. Born From Pain.” Those who follow Connor’s Instagram antics will recognize the text. The private Instagram account, bornfrompain1993, reportedly belongs to Connor while Sicko is the name of his unreleased clothing line, according to fans. But the biggest surprise, given the allegations facing him, was Connor’s front row appearance at Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2019 menswear show alongside celebrities including Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and Black Panther’s Chadwick Boseman. His specific seat seemed to have been carefully calculated. Instead of being placed in the highly photographed A-list section, he was seated at the end of the 200 meter-long runway; a place that many showgoers wouldn’t spot. Perhaps in defiance of his location, Connor arrived with his Insta-famous bodyguard, placing at least five LV bags in an unmissable pile on the floor next to him. Bari’s invitation to Dior was more surprising. But his arrival with friend A$AP Rocky signaled a new upward trajectory. Paris Fashion Week unwittingly played host to Bari’s pop-up shop with Rocky donning a VLONE design to Rick Owens’ show. (Abloh, again, appears to have some connection, posting a photo on Instagram of his new exhibition which referenced Bari and VLONE as either a “project yet to be released” or “discarded idea.”) It’s unclear where the link between the A$AP Mob member and new Dior Homme artistic director Kim Jones lies but Bari’s face-covering scarf worn to both the Dior and Alyx show didn’t look like an accident. Was this a stylish way for the designers to save face? Social media picked up on the pair’s fashion week takeover pretty quickly. But it took five days until any publication mentioned the problematic aspect of these front row guests. Refinery29 was the first to call out Louis Vuitton and Dior. (The article was taken down overnight but is now available.) The New York Times wrote raving reviews of both shows, calling Connor “an Instagram phenom” but failing to mention any allegation against him. Fashion lawyer and founder of news and commentary site The Fashion Law, Julie Zerbo, told The Daily Beast it was important for brands to think about “the message that something as seemingly simple as a runway show invitation or Instagram image has.” Although Zerbo doesn’t think “these instances represent any sort of straightforward endorsement by Louis Vuitton or Dior,” she believes that having people like Connor and Bari at a show “stands to chip away at some of the significant efforts that LVMH has made in the women’s rights arena, which is disappointing.” This dismaying trend also infiltrated the womenswear shows in Paris. On Sunday, the esteemed Miuccia Prada invited disgraced film director Roman Polanski to Miu Miu’s celeb-filled show. It’s unclear whether Polanski pleading guilty to the rape of a child (and subsequently fleeing from justice) or his idea that #MeToo is nothing more than “a collective hysteria,” somehow washed over Prada’s head but his presence didn’t mesh well with a show that supposedly celebrated women. Ian Connor, A$AP Bari, Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Alyx did not respond to requests for comment. Miu Miu’s press office said: “We have no comment on this matter.” Several industries seem keen to distance themselves from anyone accused of sexual assault and harassment. Why is fashion so different? 28

According to PMX Agency’s 2017 trend report, 61 percent of luxury consumers are women. Some designers may feign ignorance but there’s a clear disconnect between their viewpoint and the ideals of modern women. Perhaps there’s a case to argue that the women (and men) buying from these brands simply want pretty products and don’t care about the personal decisions that the head honchos make. “The fashion industry has been notoriously deaf to concerns about misogyny, sexual abuse and feminism in general—except when feminism can be portrayed as sexy,” said fashion journalist and former columnist for The Wall Street JournalChristina Binkley. “While many industries responded with immediacy to the #MeToo movement by firing accused executives, establishing new protocols, or simply listening better, fashion has been slow to get it. Perhaps these brands don’t expect to feel repercussions from their consumers.” Indeed, Zerbo noted that there isn’t “any indication that the average menswear/streetwear fan will opt to shun these brands as a result of an ‘antifemale’ stance.” Binkley alludes to fashion’s hypocrisy. There’s no other way of describing Dior’s womenswear arm brandishing a feminist message and its menswear team inviting a man involved in an ongoing sexual assault case. The same goes for Abloh, who has donated proceeds to Planned Parenthood while simultaneously advancing the profile and bank account of an alleged serial rapist. Abloh’s message may well be one of inclusivity but his (and other designers’) apparent efforts to rehabilitate individuals accused of assault shouldn’t be applauded. And by remaining silent when it affects the bottom line, the fashion media is complicit. If the industry isn’t careful, it could become one big boy’s club with no room or care for women. “I choose to not give any of my energy to [Connor] or what he does,” one of Connor’s alleged victims, Jenni Stampley, told The Daily Beast. Perhaps this is a sentiment that fashion, and we as consumers, should remember from now on. (originally published in The Daily Beast on July 6th 2018)

Males in #MeToo by Isabel Arcellana

originally published in SMU Daily Campus 2019/01/22

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“Are you okay if I move this hair?” he asked her. He always asks. Even though he’s a photographer and she’s the model, he asks. This is the post #MeToo fashion industry. This explosion of voices calling for equality has shaken the world, calling down bad men in high places. So what are we left with? What happens to the men still standing? The good ones? Nick Glover sits on the couch at his parents’ home petting his dog. He looks like your typical college student– baseball cap, grey tshirt. Except he’s sitting on his mom’s couch with the 2018 September issue of Vogue, staring at his name in it. One of his photos had made it on an advertisement in the regional copies of the Beyoncé issue. His goal was to have editorial work published in Vogue before 30, but this came pretty close. Glover is 22 and just breaking into the fashion industry. He’s not even studying fashion at UTD. He just loves it. He’s traveled the world working photo shoots for various magazines. And he’s really good at it. But Nick wants to be different. “In this industry there’s always that creepy stereotype of the creepy male photographer. And that was the one thing I never wanted to become,” said Glover. “You never want to be the creepy guy with the camera.” On shoots, Glover has learned to be respectful. If he ever has to even so much as move a hair on a model while he’s shooting, he’ll ask her first. “You always ask

permission. I try to never touch the model. I try to never be in their personal space. I always try, if she’s getting changed outside I always turn away. I ask, ‘Are you done?’” said Glover. “It’s a respect thing. Because it’s like, especially for younger models they don’t normally stand up for themselves as well, so you always want to be aware of that and respectful.”A lot of Nick’s best friends are models. “I hear a lot about what goes on on set that they don’t tell anybody. And it’s horrific and would never happen in any other industry except the entertainment and fashion industry,” said Glover. Names like Mario Testino and Bruce Webber, some of the biggest photographers in the fashion industry, have been accused as sexual harassers by the #MeToo movement. “It was general practice to give a model a heads-up about a specific photographer who we knew had a certain reputation,” Gene Krogan told the New York Times. But, he said, “If you said you were not going to work with someone like Bruce Weber or Mario Testino, you might as well just pack it in and go work in another industry.” But finally, things are finally starting to change in the fashion industry. “The ‘me too’ movement has exposed abuses of power that have existed in the workplace for centuries, and I hope that we’re now seeing the beginning of the end of that type of behavior. It appears that some magazines and modeling agencies are implementing new guidelines that protect everyone on a fashion set. It’s long overdue,” said Robert Hart, a photojournalism professor at SMU and photographer. In an article in the New York Times called “Modeling in the #TimesUp Era,” Vanessa Friedman writes, “For the first time it encouraged fashion houses to, among other things, create private changing areas, the better to guard against models being effectively naked in front of the many makeup artists, hair stylists, photographers,

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“You always ask permission. I try to never touch the model. I try to never be in their personal space.”

journalists and other random people who work behind the scenes of a show, where the making-of aspect has become as public as the event itself.” We don’t have to explain the need for justice when it comes to sexual harassment. But what happens to, dare we even say it, the innocent man? The good ones? There’s talks of men in various industries being afraid of the #MeToo movement. Men everywhere are saying they’re terrified of being falsely accused. But are men really the victims here? “There are few things more dangerous than a man whose confusion leads to fear, which ultimately leads to anger,” writes Zaron Burnett III in “A Gentleman’s Guide to the #MeToo Era” on Medium.“Right now many men are confused. Some are downright scared. Many believe that women wield a new form of power. Some of these same men accuse women of conducting a witch hunt. They claim they must contend with lifealtering misinterpretations and careerruining false allegations.” In an interview with GQ Australia, Superman actor Henry Cavill said, “because I’m someone in the public eye, and if I go and flirt with someone, then who knows what’s going to happen? Now? Now you really can’t pursue someone further than, ‘No’. It’s like, ‘OK, cool’. But then there’s the, ‘Oh why’d you give up?’ And it’s like, ‘Well, because I didn’t want to go to jail?’” In his article, Burnett points to some 32

quotes by Cavill, asking, “Why is Superman afraid of being called a rapist? Are false sexual assault allegations the new kryptonite? Not exactly… Those who claim the #MeToo Movement has gone too far, that it’s morphed into a witch hunt, are focusing on the wrong aspects of sexual abuse. The #MeToo Movement has one simple aim: Make the world safer for women by ensuring women are free from sexual harassment, abuse, assault, and rape. This goal can’t go ‘too far.’” Early this summer, Glamour and GQ came together to ask 1, 147 men what they thought of the #MeTooo movement. The study revealed that there was a severe lack of knowledge about the movement. The editors of Glamour reported, “About half of this younger age group said they’re worried about being wrongly accused of sexual harassment in the workplace. But the group who had heard of #MeToo were less worried, which says to me the movement is helpful in both promoting awareness and modifying behavior.” But how does this affect the men actually working in entertainment and fashion industries? “For me personally I don’t think it changes anything,” said Glover. “If anything, and I don’t want to sound conceited, but if anything it makes my reputation better. Because every model I speak to says, ‘You’re respectful, you’re so nice on set, and you make us very comfortable.’ And I like hearing

that. Because it makes me feel like they’re happy doing their job and they’re not worrying about what if he touches me in the wrong way or what if he’s peeking in or what if he makes me do something. I never try to do that.” Jenny Davis, a stylist that has worked with Nick many times, can attest to that. “Nick is the ultimate professional, on and off the set. He treats everyone with respect, regardless of gender, race or sexual identity,” said Davis. Huh. That’s a thought. Other photographers working in the fashion industry are all for the #MeToo movement. “I’ve always felt that my professionalism is indicative of who I am both at work and in my personal life so my behavior hasn’t changed,” says Hart. “I think it puts everyone, not just men, on notice that abusive, predatory behavior won’t be tolerated. I believe that predatory, coercive behavior is not just unethical, it’s despicable. There’s no room for that behavior in any setting. ‘Me too’ has driven a stake in the ground that says, ‘From this point forward, this behavior is career-ending.’” “There hasn’t been a job where I’ve worked on location where a male bystander hasn’t hit on or aggressively cat called,” says Holtrichter. “Growing up a male in the countryside you really become oblivious to the daily shit woman have to grow through, and if men need to be a little cautious – good! It’s about time… It’s as simple as being a good human, so I really don’t have any empathy with men that seem attacked by this movement.” “I think fear might actually be a good thing,” said the editors of GQ. Glover echoes this. “I think men in this industry need to learn how to better respect people,” he says. “And I don’t think that’s a problem.” 33

We Are Not Just Pretty, Soft Things By Sarah May

What fabulous power the internet has. What incredible force the fashion world is! We are the makers of garments, texture, images, pigment-play, movement, and light. Models, photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, lighting experts, and helpers around each shot make up a little universe whose only goal is to make something beautiful. Sometimes those universes can fall out of orbit. Sometimes one strange energy on set can disrupt the equilibrium of creative safety. Each person in that universe is responsible to not harm others, to help make something good, to do work as they are able, and to call out bad behavior if it is witnessed. We are responsible for the well-being of our workplaces. We are the collective keepers of the peace. We have to talk to each other when things are out of sorts to correct them and protect each other. I have not experienced predatory behavior in my workplace, like some of the horrendous stories I have heard. I am lucky. Every stylist has adjusted my clothes on set in a respectful manner. Photographers have always told me when they were shooting, they communicated and conducted their teams professionally, and I’ve not been asked to do things I was not comfortable with. Now, I do not know if this is has anything to do with the fact that I only started professionally 34

modeling when I was 26 or if it is because I am a size 18, 238 pound, plus-size model or neither of those things. I have only had good interactions with the creative teams that I have been apart of modeling. But I have read and heard stories of young women, men, and non-binary models and friends feeling as though they had to succumb to pressure, whether it was physical, sexual, or emotional, to “make it.” That is gross. No person, especially in a position of power, creative or otherwise, should make another person uncomfortable. Like high rates of harassment and assault, I don’t know how you start to fix this issue other than to speak about it. Conversations like these begin to tear down the stigma and shame victims can feel and speak to their own experiences. There is a fog around these large movements that makes it difficult to see what is clearly before us: all of us, standing together talking about difficult and uncomfortable things, and making it known that we aren’t going to take this shit sitting down. We are not just pretty, soft things. Modeling is work. Fashion is work. Whether we are 16 and fresh-eyed or 55 and have seen enough bad behavior to fill a book, we will talk to each other, we are here to work, we will know if you act predatory, and it will be called out.

In the age of internet, when we all are so visible in the world, we must be aware of the permanence of our actions.

2 FEATURES 37

INTRODUCTION

AUGEMENTED REALITY is a new and emerging technology that superimposes a computer-generated image on a user's view of the real world, providing a composite view. This section utilizes AR technology using a free mobile application called Artivive. Artivive is an augmented reality tool that provides a digital layer to physical art works. It allows the viewer to interact more deeply with still images. In this section, there are ten stories of models and other industry professionals. Each subject has been photographed and given their story and perspective on the #MeToo movement and the impact it has made on modeling and fashion as an industry. To find out more of the story, use the Artivive app on the designated images marked with the Artivive icon.

Install the Artivive App

Look for images marked with the Artivive icon

Hold your smartphone over the image with sound

A.G. model, 28

This behavior is just so deep-rooted into it. Someone brought it up a while back but think back to the Andy Warhol days where it was very acceptable for this stuff to happen. Andy Warhol used to spike people's drinks and if anything happened to you that was just what would happen if you went to one of his parties. It’s so ingrained into these artistic things without any repercussions. We're just expendable. I feel a lot of times the client doesn’t give a shit what model is standing in these clothes. We’re interchangeable to them. If one drops out just pick the clothes off that one and put it on another body. There was a girl she was I think 15 or 16. She was with Elite and had a job with Terry Richardson. She called her booker when things got weird. I don’t think she was full on molested or raped but it was a bad situation with his penis out and stuff. She couldn’t stand up for herself so she called her agent and they said straight up you know, if you don't do this, this could end your career. It's your choice if you stay or go, but if you don't stay, this could be it for you. You could just go home. So she stayed. One person I’ve had a lot of experience with is the casting director Angus Munro. He has slept with multiple models, some of my friends, and these girls are between the ages of 16 and 19. Some are underage and some are teetering. He’s an old dude. He kind of took a special interest in me in London. I was put on hold for a bunch of his shows and I went to go in for my fitting and I was actually fully confirmed for the show, wasn't even held at that point, And I'm doing my fitting, the client loved the look and I caught him as I was changing out. Just watching me change, just sitting there very adamantly just staring at me when I'm fully nude and I go what's up? I just looked him in the face like what's up, and he just turns away from me. As soon as I got home, I got an email, you’re cut from the show. The next day I looked at the show and the girl that replaced me looked exactly like me. And it was so weird. I was like that's why you did it, didn't you? You got pissed off that I called you out for being a creep and you cut me from the show. He had me on hold for several things he was doing in London and Paris and then he just dropped me from everything and never had me in again.

"How much is a 14 year old worth versus a photographer? Nothing."

We have to keep people accountable, but it’s up to the client. They’re the ones who have the final say. I’m the disposable piece and I can be not okay with his behavior, but I can be loud and obnoxious for myself. Once you get up to the people that actually matter and can change things, if it falls on deaf ears there, then you can’t do anything about it. Had the designer taken an issue with Angus’ behavior he wouldn’t use him anymore. That didn’t happen so it didn’t matter. I think I was lucky because I started at 18 and was old enough to advocate for myself versus a lot of these young girls are very quiet. If they don’t say something, even if its minor, nothing will change. I’m not blaming them but at the same time no one else is going to clean up your mess you have to yell and shout for yourself. They don’t have that ability at 14 or 16. I wasn’t able to do that then. The industry would have eaten me up and spit me out. We’re so obsessed with this baby lolita youth serum that we age girls out by the time they hit 18. We like girls that are 20 so we have less of a problem going for these 14 year old prepubescent little girls. I think we need to change what society finds attractive. I think one thing I am hopeful for is the health of the girls is being considered more. I remember a roommate I had in Paris who would party all night and then come home and eat yogurt and apples. That was it. That kind of lifestyle isn’t sustainable and lo and behold she was gone from modeling in six months. Fast forward to New York and we had a model taking diuretics to slim down but she was also starving herself during the day. She’d go out and drink at night, get hungry, and then come home and eat our food. We ended up telling the agency because she wouldn’t stop eating our food, but that wasn’t our only motivation. The agency told her like that’s unhealthy and if you don’t get it together you’re out. I guess someone in the apartment told the agency it was still happening because her contract was nulled that day. I’ve seen this happen more and more even from a few years later. They want to keep the health of the girls a priority and at least acknowledge they’re human beings who deserve to eat.

M.R.

model, 35

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There is a lot that gets swept under the rug. Think of it this way, you have your star player on the team and they get in trouble. Just like sports, they they want that player out on the field or on the court because that's their money maker. They want it, the crowd wants it, so they will go to certain lengths to secure that bag. It’s the same in the modeling industry but I think it all starts with our agencies. They’re our home, our protection, and these people would not get away with this stuff if the agencies had our backs. My agency is wonderful, however I have seen some stuff out there where you have these young girls and the parents trust the agencies and it’s all a front. Everyone's should be building each other up. So when you think about #MeToo and you have people that are in power taking advantage of people who just want a piece of what they have, or what they've experienced and the American dream. We don't have a union as far as I know, but if all of the agencies stuck together, what would these people do? What would these designers do? In this day in age they could go out and get real people to do these

jobs but it would get sleazy really fast. You have a lot of these people out in IG land who think modeling looks a certain way, but that isn’t modeling as a job. It's a little different when you're black girl in the Naomi era because everybody thought she was crazy. I'm not sure how many people tried her and not to say she's never been taken advantage of, but unfortunately black girls were labeled to have a bad attitude. I never had a bad attitude, but I feel like people kind of knew it wasn’t a safe place to try me in that manner. I also had experiences as a kid who I recognized signs when things weren’t safe. I didn’t put myself in a lot of positions where those things would happen to me within the industry. For other girls it isn’t the same way. You have girls coming from developing countries to New York City and they’re hungry, their parents are sick, they’re living in poverty, and they are willing to do anything to make it. Now don’t get me wrong, I’ve been at some parties where things are going down and you just have to make a choice, but there are girls who have things forced on them and they don’t have that option. 49

I'm a Christian. I left New York, so I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go to hell.

There are some other cultures that are just that they're more sensitive. When I was working heavily and shot in Japan, they were amazing. They care so much about how I felt and what I was thinking. In one instance I stepped out of a limo and a drunk man fell on my feet as soon as I got out of the car. The clients were immediately so apologetic and bowed out of politeness. The whole time I was working with Yohji Yamamoto and his team they were much more respectful than what you would see in Europe or America.

When I modeled in New York, for all of those years before my daughter, I spent a lot of time in smaller clothes like a swimsuit, booty shorts, or a bralette. I enjoyed my body. It was nice. However after having my daughter I felt like I had to steal my body back from the industry. It felt like I had to ask permission to not be the nudist on set. They put you in a box and nobody asks you if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re comfortable anymore.

The agencies as a whole as a group have to be on the same page. Its like if our rates go down, everybody has to say no, we're not going lower than this. But if that one agency says, oh, we'll go $50, lower, everybody has to go lower. If we could stop being so greedy and really look out for one another, we could end all of this stuff. Our rates would even go up because integrity would go up and we would start paying more for quality. But at the end of the day, we have to be accountable. We are our brother's keeper. We are and we have to be because if we're not going to be our brothers keepers, and no one's going to be ours. We can't just all walk around like we don't care about the next person because we do and because the next person matters. Everyone matters.

S.V. model, 18

"I can guarantee you with the way that things are changing so much no one's going to let behavior like this slide much longer."

I had just started out modeling, and I had been looking forward to shooting with this photographer for a long time. I thought that his criticism was direction for me to get better, looking back, I feel he was really bullying me in a way. I didn't know any better. That's just how the fashion industry is, it's blunt. There was a situation where he wanted to take my shirt off and I'm 16 years old. Whenever I didn't do it, he's said “do you think you're gonna get big in this industry? If you're not comfortable doing stuff that? you can't say no, if you want to climb the ladder you're going to have to get out of your comfort zone.” I wanted to make it so I ended up taking my shirt off but it was all over my face. I was uncomfortable. He was like no, that's not working and then he's telling me to come up six inches from his face and look as if I'm going to seduce him. I was so uncomfortable, but I was pushing past it, because I just want to be successful. When I left, I was just bawling in my car, because I felt I was incapable of doing what he wanted, because I couldn't get out of my comfort zone. There was a lot of shame on myself for that. Then I started shooting with other people in Dallas and I realized they didn’t treat me like him and made me break out of my shell. That's when I really learned how to model because I was more comfortable. Every time I shot with that one person it was always “No, that's not right. No, that's nothing. You're giving me nothing.” When I broke away from that, that's when I would learn to express myself. Every pose was intentional with however I was feeling and that was really displayed through my movements. The whole reason that I got into modeling is through sexual assault. So I don't want to say that, you know, sexual assault is a blessing in disguise at all. How the fashion industry helped me heal was extremely influential in my life. So I even decided I wanted to model because last year, I was raped by someone who was very close to me. It just changes you so much. You don't look at yourself the same, your confidence completely slowly deteriorates. Even though it's not your fault, you just feel dirty and you feel just gross. It's the ultimate violation, especially when it's someone so close to you. 56

"It killed my relationship with boys for a long time."

I knew that I needed an outlet to heal because I was so tired of feeling that way. I needed a way to cope that would make me feel (Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a Pisces, so you know I have a lot of feelings). I love how photographs make you feel a certain way. A picture of a house might make me and a million other people feel a million different ways. I decided through modeling this is how I want to express myself. When I started modeling, even just taking pictures on my phone, and made me feel beautiful again. All those sad, crazy overwhelming emotions, I felt, I learned I could portray those emotions through my pictures. I wanted it was just a way for me to release my feelings, to just move and be free. And I didn't have to worry about what I looked like because whatever was captured, was captured. For me, I hope that modeling brings the same feeling of safety for others as it does for me. For me, being behind the camera isn't the time to be nervous, it's a time for me to feel safe. If someone says anything or does anything like what I experienced to you on set, drop what you're doing and call your agent. Your agents are supposed to be there for you and if you're not comfortable, you shouldn't be there. I don't know how it is for other people, but my agents are never on set with me so they want to keep you safe that they can't if you don't communicate with them. Know if you have good agency, you shouldn't have to be in any situation that you're uncomfortable with.

D.S. model, 27

I’ve been trying to model since I was 13 but it didn’t really take off until I was out of high school at 18 or 19. I didn’t get signed with an agency until I was around 21. They sent me to this photographer at his home. His wife was there, there was another model, and a make up artist so I didn’t feel uncomfortable at first thinking it would all be fine. I have a good head on my shoulders so I know when not to go. I didn’t feel unsafe, we did the shoot, and he ended up wanting to shoot underwear. It wasn’t lingerie, but just very normal underwear shooting and other people were there so I was like okay this is fine. As we’re saying goodbye, we were alone in the doorway. As I’m leaving he straight up grabbed my ass. I didn’t know what to do. I was just like okay, I’m gonna leave now? I was seconding guessing myself like did they really just happened? Was it a mistake? You know where people’s body parts are so I had a hard time understanding why he did it. I didn’t tell anyone about it because when you’re young you think did that really happen? Should I make a big deal about it? My friend shot with this photographer a few times. The first time was totally fine, no issues. Then pretty quickly after he wanted to shoot again which I thought was odd. On top of that it was late at night and at his house. Lots of red flags. I don't know it's hard to put yourself in that position. You know, I think a lot of people would hear any of these stories and say well I would have done that. But you really don't know sometimes. Unfortunately, has a drink or a few, and he ended up attacking her. She eventually broke all of her nails trying to get out. Her boyfriend was looking for her because she was two hours late to coming home. He even contacted my asking if I knew where she was. I was able to get screenshots of his Instagram before it wen private. I was able to give it to her because she needed it for the police and whatnot. I ended up passing the info to my agency and said hey a friend of mine was attacked by this guy, if he ever reaches out just a heads up. They were actually really cool about it and were thankful I gave them his name. Most Texas agencies as far as I know are really good about this stuff. 63

I think a lot of it starts a lot with at younger ages of learning consent. I remember watching this video of these toddlers I think it was somewhere in Sweden. They have the children ask each other, do you want to hug? Then teach them you know, if you feel you don't want to hug that's okay, you can say no. If they say no, you need to respect that. I thought that was really interesting because I'm that's a perfect time to teach children about personal space. There have been instances even at work or something, or just in life that people have either grabbed my arm or just touch a bit of my back and it's kind of weird because I'm like what makes you think it's okay to just touch people even if it's that small? Do you not understand consent? Relating to the industry, we need to keep calling out creeps. If you have 50 girls coming in saying that some dude is a creep, he's probably a creep. You can't be like “oh, well it's their word against his” because why would so many women come out and lie? I love all those people that are like oh, they're just trying to take that guy down. Do you not realize that they're putting themselves at risk so why would they lie about their accusation? It's very rare that women lie about these things and it's super common for women to get attacked and or inappropriately touched. That’s something I’ve dealt with from an early age. Anything can happen to you. I think people need to stop having that stigma of the victim being a liar or that she just wants attention. Most of the time, it’s not true.

M.J. model, 23

"I can say almost every single model that I know has experienced something inappropriate. Hands down, almost every single one."

To be honest, I don't notice anymore. Somebody is dressing and undressing me, people reach up my skirt to pull down my shirt all the time and in the context itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine. I guess if you think about it in any other situation, it would be not okay.

This is something good that I think has changed literally in the last year or two. My agencies have never pressured me to do anything, it’s always been someone on set like a photographer or stylist who will say oh lets do this one topless or whatever because this is the look we’re going for. My agency in London was going to submit me for a job but they said upfront “would you feel comfortable being nude on set with nothing showing in the final product?” and I said no and they were totally fine with it. They will always say you’ll be showing this but that will be covered and they’re always transparent. Most of my experiences have always been halfway through a shoot when they try to spring something on you like oh just do this one shot. I’ve been asked more in the last year if I’m comfortable than I’ve ever been asked in my life. I think there's so much more awareness. People are so much more terrified of somebody saying something. I’ve been getting asked more if I’m comfortable even if it’s just changing which is something I care less about because it’s usually with a stylist and that’s their job to change me but I’ve been getting asked are you comfortable changing here? We can find you a bathroom if you want? That did not happen when I was 14 which is crazy because now I’m of legal age and it doesn’t matter as much.

It seems like a lot of males in the fashion industry, when they get to a certain point of success, feel they have the right to make comments about girls bodies because they're an owner of a modeling agency or whatever. They'll make comments about girls butts and pass it off as “oh, her measurements are such and such but she sure has such a nice ass” but you’re not commenting about her measurements you could’ve said hips and not say anything else. I've heard of a lot lot of girls experiencing that behavior from people who are higher up. I even get paranoid sometimes shooting alone with male photographers. Harassment of any sort has become very normalized and I think that's the scariest thing. It’s kind of like this person made a comment, that person touched me, but that’s just the “industry” or whatever. It happens to everyone. People just shrug more than they should and it isn’t okay. If you’re young especially and it happens, unless you’re outspoken, you probably won’t say anything because either you’re scared or you’re told its normal. I think more conversations need to be had. I think it’s important. It’s gonna take a long time, but I think we’ll get there. 71

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makeup artist, 29

As a makeup artist, my experiences have been as simple as we were given a mood board with no mention of nudity but as halfway through the shoot, she’s taking clothes off one piece at a time. There was never verbal agreement, no consent, and the air is test. I always make it a point to tell the models, you do not have to take your clothes off. That's not modeling. There's definitely this idea circulating, especially with fresh, unrepresented talent, that to make it you have to get naked. I had a model reached out to me specifically once and asked me to do a test shoot. She said she was gonna do boudoir which she normally didn’t do, but really wanted to work with these photographers. There were two shooters. She also told me that it was unpaid, I didn’t have to say yes, but that she felt comfortable with me and wanted me there to make sure she didn’t end up naked. So we get there. It was the same thing. It was the same classic one piece at a time thing. She's down to some intimate pieces. I tell her she could stop there and she didn’t have to take anything else off. One of the

photographers got her alone and when I got in for touch ups, she’s fully nude. She specifically told everyone leading up to the shoot I’m not going to be naked but one way or the other, he managed to get her out of her clothes. It was such a bitter experience. At that point, I had done all that I could. I just walked out and started packing me stuff because I couldn’t be part of it. I made sure she was okay, she reassured me she was, and I just asked to not be tagged in the images. I don’t do nudes, I don’t do implied nudes, and if that’s what you want you can find someone else. I checked in with that model after the shoot. She regretted it. Sometimes there's nothing you can do. You spend the day with someone and you trust them, and you want so badly to make it and you just let them manipulate the situation. I don't think it's the fault of the victims. I mean, I think that they're being played. I think that you're really vulnerable in front of a camera with clothes on and then to slowly you know, just disrobe it, it gets more and more vulnerable, and you're really relying on the other person to watch out for you. But they won’t. 73

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I’ve been on a full blown production where there was supposed to be an implied sex scene that was supposed to be really artistic, darkly lit, and we weren’t supposed to see any faces. The talent we had was willing to do everything but that. Production just kept saying they’d deal with it later, we’ll figure it out when we get there, etc. She was from LA and didn’t have many people she could talk to. She came to my department and told me they keep talking about this scene, saying how they want to shoot it, and I just don’t feel good. I told her you don’t have to do it. This project doesn’t mean that much to sacrifice who you are and your body. It came time to do the shot and she said I’m not doing this, we’ve talked, I’m not doing it. It was a huge ordeal. Everyone was asked to leave the set and she left without saying anything. They brought someone else under a jacket, nobody was allowed to know who it was, and it was a closed set of a few crew members. It was not darkly lit or 74

artistic. It was raunchy and disgusting. She left covered by a jacket and was escorted out. It was the most repulsive thing I’ve ever been a part of and to this day I still will not tell anybody what project or who it was. It was a very dark experience. I've had men on set, obviously attracted to the talent, try to flirt in between takes. This one guy asked the talent how old she was, her drink of choice, and it’s like this is a job for commercial real estate? Why are you concerned with her drink of choice? He was making very inappropriate jokes about her being hungover because she must be a crazy partier and the girl has said nothing, he’s just making up a fantasy. We’re all just kind of like what’s going on? He told wardrobe to put her in this white, mini, off the shoulder sundress that went up pretty high. He said it made her look innocent and kept looking her up and down. The client wasn’t on board. It was a full day of that and it was just gut wrenching.

I think that #MeToo and #TimesUp are really great catalysts for change, but until people start utilizing them I don't think that it will get any easier. You have these people coming out and it's did that really happen? It's getting to the point where we're almost being conditioned to hear these things so its like of course, that happened, you know? I think it's just going to take some bold people to stand up and be willing to lose a job. That's what it comes down to. That's why I haven't said anything. I'm the makeup artist. I'm here to put makeup on the girl and speak when spoken to.

A.B.

model,21

I was hanging out with a friend who was signed to an agency I had left. I met some new girls who had signed on and they were at the model apartments, we're all hanging out. She was talking about how these photographers would bring up their past conversations on Instagram and she no idea what they were talking about. Turns out that the main agent at that agency made a fake Instagram account, posing as that girl with her most sexualized pictures because she wasn't personally posting those on her own Instagram account, and interacting with photographers, flirting with them, so she could shoot with them. I worked with this photographer in New York and I was 17. He had this really pretty picture of Stella Maxwell and as well that he shot and she was nude on this train tracks and he saw me looking at it. He asked me would you pose nude? My mom was in the room. I told him I wouldn’t be comfortable with that and he said “Well, here’s the thing. You should if it's a good enough job. It could take your career to the next level. Wouldn’t you be willing to do that?”

I went and tested with this guy in LA. When I walked into his apartmented he asked to see my ID to make sure I was 18. Red flag number one. I should have ran but I didn’t. We shot in Malibu just 10 minutes from his apartment, it was just the two of us. I’ve never been comfortable with the idea of my nipples showing and I explained that to him and he communicated that it was important to him that his girls felt comfortable. He talked for a while about how good of a person he was so that should have been another red flag. He sent me a moodboard before the shoot and some of it I wasn’t on board with. I went over what I liked and didn’t like with him so I thought we’d be on the same page. It sounds really stupid, but as a model you don’t always know what your clothes are doing. That’s usually why we have stylists to make sure our boobs don’t fall out or something. You’re constantly moving, you’re in the zone, and I remember my pasties got damp and started to slide off. I remember he made a comment saying he thought I had pepperoni nipples. By the end of the shoot I just felt really gross because he started to be aggressive about how I should pose and I was praying it would come tastefully. I just wanted to get out of there and be done and hope nothing bad was showing.

"He got upset and said it was his art and I wasn’t allowed to tell him what to do with his art. I was like but this is also my body and my career and I really wanted them taken down." The next day I wake up to four photos of me on Instagram he tagged me in. There’s my nipple. They aren’t tasteful pictures of me, nothing a professional model could use and not even Sports Illustrated level of sexy. Just cheesy LA photography. So I messaged him and said “Hey I saw the pictures on Instagram, I don’t really feel comfortable with those, could we take those down because I don’t want my clients seeing them?” and he just told me to untag myself. I told him again, no, I don’t want those photos out there because that was too much of my body showing. He got upset and said it was his art and I wasn’t allowed to tell him what to do with his art. I was like but this is also my body and my career and I really wanted them taken down. I knew that if I reached out to my agents in LA that they wouldn't do anything, I didn't feel comfortable with them because they didn't inspire me at all to feel safe. I was like let me just see if I can handle this on my own before I pull in anybody else. At this point I’m crying and finally after begging and pleading and apologizing he finally deleted them. Of course he had to block me.

I think there always needs to be more than just the girl and the photographer. Get a stylist or make up artist even if it’s last minute. Have the model bring a friend. A lot of photographers in New York are that way, they say extra people will take up space. It will say on the callsheet to come alone. Of course most people in Dallas I love, they’re great. But how many photographers do we know that aren’t great people? We literally have a blacklist. There are some good people, but that isn’t every time. Unfortunately with the list, the only people who know those names are the same ones who don't care. You’re putting yourself in danger and told you can’t protect yourself.

T.L. model, 21

I think we all feel that at some point we’d do something we’re uncomfortable with. I don’t want to downplay Dallas’s market but if it’s a job here or a test shoot it doesn’t feel worth it. And that's also me saying, Oh, so if it's a big photographer then it's worth it but is it? It's not? You could be working with an iconic director, producer, photographer, and you want to get this opportunity. You’ll rarely get that opportunity. So why are you going to say now it's just a shot of your boobs? It's fine? But it isn’t. They're always taking photos. There are castings, test shoots and regular jobs etc. Everyone has all these photos of you. You don’t know what can come out later. I think about this a lot because I've seen throwback posts of people posting old celebrity auditions and I think “damn, some people have the archives old photos of me, and I'll never know.”

I follow a model on YouTube and she talks about her experiences. She shot with the photographer in LA and it was a lingerie shoot, just said that she could get more body shots in our portfolio, but she wasn't aware of it being sexual at all. She didn't want that kind of vibe. The photographer had asked her at towards the end of their shooting, so she wasn't creeped out during the entire thing, to remove her top. She hesitated but she did it. She was trying to get reassurance that it was going to be done tastefully or whatever, she didn't want any nipples showing. So she covered herself with their arms over her chest and was posing. He kept asking or pushing her to change up the pose a little and there's only so much you can do when you're covering up. So she would move her arms a little bit to switch positions and he would take shots in between her changing poses. He wouldn't when she was just with her arms crossed. If a predator wanted to something with those images, he could post them on porn websites, whenever he wants. As a model, people have rights over your brand and photos of you. Those images are there to do what they want with.

I‘ve never been sexually assaulted, but I've definitely been harassed. Last year over spring break me and a bunch of my friends went to New Orleans. We were walking down Bourbon Street for St. Patty's Day and everyone was drunk and having a good time. There was this old dude who had a bunch of stickers. He walked by me and my friends not only put a sticker on my boob, but grabbed it in front of my boyfriend. It happened so quickly and it was a busy crowd so I don’t know who did it. We lost him. Right after it happened I cried about it but the next day I almost forgot it happened. It didn’t really bother me anymore. Then sometimes I’ll think back and think why he thought that was okay? The whole #MeToo movement kind of made me realize how often things get swept under the rug and how people were so surprised at the stories they heard. Since I became a teenager, this kind of stuff has happened to me. Ridiculous amounts of catcalling and stuff. We all think it’s surprising when this kind of stuff gets heard, but is it really surprising anymore? In response to the stories about the modeling industry, people don't care, you know? There will always be a different model who will stay quiet. If you’re the one who wants to speak up, as much as your agency or client might love you, everyone is out for themselves. I hate to be so pessimistic about it, but it’s the truth. I don’t know if there’s a simple solution to it. It’s systemic. It comes from how you’re raised and the fact that everything is coming out now with the #MeToo movement, it's a good sign that as the millennial generation grows up to be parents, it's gonna become a lot better. But it's going to take time.

F.H. agent, 27

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I got my first agency job when I was still in college at 18 years old. A friend of mine was working at an agency that represented fashion stylists, hair & makeup and other onset artists for commercial advertising shoots. Initially, they just needed someone to manage their social media channels, but very quickly my role evolved into art directing/ producing test shoots for our artists’ portfolios in addition to designing and distributing all the promotional visuals for the agency. Since I was still in college while working there, I was only part time – so once I was finished with school and ready to commit myself full time to a job, I came over to Kim Dawson to assist them with their annual model search event. After the event wrapped, Lisa Dawson (the director of the agency) offered me a full time job and I was thrilled to accept. I’ve always been interested in fashion, more specifically I’ve always been obsessed with style, and the ways in which it can be used as a nonverbal communication tool to provide a context for one’s identity. Especially as a queer person, I think the empowerment and control that can be exercised through one’s presentation is something I’ve understood as an important tool since I was a kid. One of the main reasons the fashion world is such a comfortable environment for me to occupy is because the foundation of our industry was created by women, and is mostly populated by women and queer people. I can’t think of another environment where I would be more encouraged to be who I am. I wear many hats at the agency (only metaphorically of course, as I actually look

really bad in hats). I oversee the development of new and experienced fashion models, stylists, and hair & makeup artists. I help to produce and art direct photo shoots and collaborate with creative teams for the development of models’/artists' portfolios in the Dallas marketplace in addition to coordinating shoots for our talent in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Chicago and any other city they may find themselves traveling to. I design and distribute all marketing campaigns to promote our talent to regional and national clients, which includes managing all of our social media platforms and website. One of my largest annual responsibilities is managing a talent scouting event each fall, the Kim Dawson Model Search. Each year, about 1,500 hopefuls enter our search via online application. From this group, I coordinate interviews with about 50-60 semifinalists, then after interviewing these hopefuls as a team - we select 5-10 finalists. Once the finalists are selected, they undergo a makeover with our salon sponsor, participate in a photoshoot with fashion industry professionals and are paired with creative teams who produce short films for their assigned finalist. We then premiere these films at an event attended by around 350 clients and creatives. This provides both an exciting launch for our new models into the marketplace and creates a platform for our local creative community to collaborate on an inspiring project that which celebrates our talent and showcases the crew members’ skillsets. From beginning to end I produce and coordinate all aspects of the event and design all marketing materials used over the course of the search. 91

I am always seeking new artists to collaborate with for our models, and am excited anytime I get into contact with a photographer who is passionately devoted to what they do and has interesting ideas they are looking to explore. Whenever I’m looking through a photographer’s portfolio, I love to see images that really respect and honor their subject - where a considerate and thoughtful depiction of a model’s beauty really shines thru. Regardless of whether the photographs are more conceptual with an emphasis on styling or are a little simpler and more refined, it’s always refreshing to see that a photographer makes a point to document their subject in a way that makes them feel beautiful. I think it’s always important to be considerate that everyone investing their time on set (photographer, stylist, hair and makeup artist and especially the model) all have something amazing to take away from a shoot for their portfolios. When I’m contacted by a photographer whose images seem more explicit or are shot from a predatory or sexualized perspective (which happens pretty often), this means the photographer’s work is below our standards, and I’ll let them know we aren’t interested in making talent available to them. I want to make sure we are sending our models to environments where they feel safe and supported. Communication is definitely the key, and something we take pride in at our agency is harboring an open, honest dialogue with all of our talent. We have an open door policy at our office, so the models can swing by anytime they’d like to speak with us without feeling the need to call a meeting or set up an appointment. Cultivating and maintaining a symbiotic, comfortable environment for everyone allows our models to feel safe in communicating any concerns or issues that may pop up. They are all encouraged to reach out to us if they are ever uncomfortable on set. We are happy to intervene and definitely prioritize the models safety and comfort first and foremost. 93

There are stories of agencies who will send their models to photographers despite a reputation as an abuser. This certainly occurs with more frequency in larger markets then Dallas. Our market is much smaller, so people catch wind of any inappropriate or shady behavior pretty quickly, however there have certainly been circumstances where someone has brought an issue to us regarding weird on set dynamics. We always act quickly to defend our models and will certainly confront and address directly any inappropriate behavior. I think the reason people have historically looked the other way in regards to predatory behavior (especially in larger markets), is because often abusers are in positions of power, and both models and agents alike fear that speaking up could hurt the career of the affected models. The #MeToo movement has created a larger visibility for the unfair and unsafe power dynamics that for so long have been shielded from public view, thus creating a greater sense of accountability. This was a pivotal turning point for the industry as a whole, and I hope helped us all realize that we need to be more diligent in defending and protecting our talent and holding predators and abusers accountable for their actions. As agents, we also have the added responsibility of being caretakers for young people, who are entering into a new world occupied by very opinionated and strong willed adults, and it is essential we communicate clearly what their rights are, that they are allowed and encouraged to speak up when they feel uncomfortable, and assure them that we will support and defend them, a responsibility we as an agency take very seriously.

R.F.

model, 25

So I was on set for a shoot in Dallas recently and the photographer was a middle aged white male. He completely manhandled the makeup artist. She was blowing my hair a certain way and he wasn’t liking it so he literally reached up and grabbed her arm and yanked her so she lost her balance and ended up tripping. I was mortified. I think people focus on the sexual side of the #MeToo movement but harassment is still harassment. There shouldn’t be any tolerance for anything that disrespects another human being especially a white male who thinks he can get away with whatever he wants because he has for millenia. She stood up and was composed for the rest of the shoot and excused his behavior by saying he was just old fashioned. I was like oh my God. This is so inundated into our psyches that we write people off like “Oh, he’s older so it’s fine.” I just don’t think she wanted to say anything because this is a big photographer and he pulls a lot of big money jobs and I was like girl you do you but I immediately emailed my agency and told them what happened. We ended up having a conversation and they were really receptive and amazing which is great for Dallas, but I feel like most of this is concentrated in New York. 97

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I’ve had a lot of experiences with Karl Templer. He is one of the biggest stylists in the world. He's on the list too. There were a bunch of allegations. He was the creative director of Interview Magazine which was Andy Warhol’s magazine he started in the 60s. It recently shut down due to financial reasons but also all of these models started coming out and saying he was a predator. Everyone thinks he’s gay because of how he acts and he’s a stylist so you just assume things. I think women felt quite safe working for him, I mean that’s how I felt. I ended up working for him for Interview Magazine and he basically started my career. I had been modeling for seven years at 98

that point but he was the one who booked me for the Coach campaign, Valentino, Tommy Hilfiger, and all this stuff. He does all the styling for Alexander Wang, Tommy Hilfiger Coach, Dior, everything. I remember this super vividly I was doing looks for him and was totally naked except my underwear because I was waiting for an outfit and he could see me from where he was sitting. I wasn’t uncomfortable because it was like he’s gay so it’s whatever but then I remember standing there and he just stared at me and said you have an amazing body. I thought to myself that was really weird. I thought he wasn’t into women but I still felt uncomfortable. Then I was doing looks for Tommy Hilfiger, a few months later, right before their S/S 16 show and Michelle Lee, who was the casting director at the time for Tommy Hilfiger, said oh take as much food as you want we’re done with it. I was dating someone at the time so I took like three boxes home we could have for dinner. Karl and I were taking the elevator back together and he asked who all of that food was for so I said me and my boyfriend. He was like “oh, you have a boyfriend?” and never booked me for anything again. If I hadn’t told him I had a boyfriend, I’d probably be so much further along in my career and done more campaigns but is it worth it? Not to me. I’d rather have integrity and not feel violated and feel empowered and own my body. Some women have different values and will use it to get something but that is their prerogative, as long as it’s consensual. I don’t think that is the issue. The issue is older men preying on vulnerable women because they know that they can because they’re powerful and have something they want. It’s a power play. It’s all sexual. I think that is why it runs so rampant in industries like modeling and acting because those industries have people who feel like they do own your body because they pay for it. It’s like no, I’m on set and you can tell me where to put my hand because you paid me this amount for this amount of hours and signed a contract. It ends there. I don't think that any 14-17 year olds should be thrown into an industry this. You are literally so vulnerable, you know nothing about the world. A lot of these young girls come from Russia from families that are surviving on canned beans so they feel this pressure, do anything and everything to make money at any cost to send it back to their family. They see this big opportunity so they have lower standards and men know that and they take advantage of them. They're able to get a 14 year old to strip off her clothes

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on a shoot and even though they know that she's under 18 they're not going to ask because then they get in trouble so you have these pictures of this topless 14 year old girl which is child pornography. If we raised the standard to 18 there wouldn't be this whole issue of of men being predatory to literal children. It's just so rampant with pedophiles because you have so many young, fresh girls that are underage that are so willing to strip off anything do anything just for a buck. One specific example was a show I did for Dior. There was a 14 year old girl from Israel who was scouted by Raf in a Dior store in Paris. He saw her in the store and asked who she was and she signed a two year exclusive contract with Dior for like $200,000. Her and her family was living in an attic in Israel and they were so poor so she was willing to do anything. She opened the show in this sheer dress and that was her first exposure to the modeling world. She could have worn any other look. Why did it have to be that one? I think what people are lacking is empathy. I think they're lacking humanity, especially with models, because we're just some clothes hangers. I feel actors have a little bit more humanity to them. So I think what we need to bring to it, especially in the fashion industry, is humanity, and empathy. The only way we can do that is if models start using their voices. I think models, not standing for it and not necessarily getting angry and throwing fits but

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saying, when you did this, it made me feel this way. I'm someone's daughter. I'm someone's sister. I'm someone's wife, if you're married. I'm a human too. The way you're treating me doesn't make me feel like one. What Shit Model Management did, so many people lost their jobs over that. Which, I’m sorry to say, is awesome. I think people should be held accountable for their actions even if it costs them work. I think if we all just make an effort together, regardless of the fear, I think it'll make more of a difference. Modeling for most is usually just a moment in people’s lives and I think it’s really important to use that time wisely because it goes by fast. I want to encourage anyone reading this that you are worth more than your title. You are worth more than any label that was given to you whether that is model or photographer or make up artist. No matter who you are or what you do your humanity and your dignity is more important. There are more of us that are out there who have been through things and it’s not okay. It’s never okay. I think it’s time to stand up and make your voice heard even if it’s scary. Especially if it’s scary.

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THE BLACKLIST Adam Chin* (@theadamchin) Adam King* (@agameoftones) Adam Mont Adam Rose* (photographer) AJ Day* (ATL, MIA) Akoni* (@lamparilya) (California) Alan (@imagedc) Alex Turner (NC) Alexander HeifitzAlexander Jacob* Alexander Neumann* Alvin Nyguen* @amejiaphoto* Amir Kuckovic Andres Altamirano* (NYC) Andrew Davis Andrew Kuykendall* Angel Armenta Angelo Casanovic (@spqrphotography) Angelo Seminara Angus Munro Anthony Georgis Anthony Turano* Anthony Winters Antoine Verglass Antonio Gonzalez* (ARIZONA) Artur Kowallick Atakan Merdan Atari Jones Attilio D’Agostino* Balthier Corfi Barry Druxman Bart Kurela* Bartlomeij Kurela @beijobaby* Beking Joassaint Bernie Des Belles Bil Brown Billy Pissios* 102

BJ Levin Blaise Beyhan* Bob Recine (hairstylist) Brad Brisbin* (“personal trainer”) Bradley Lloyd Barnes Brandon Depuma* (@depuma) Brian Daniel Baker Brian Hilburn Brian Keith* (@keithphotographer) Bruce Weber* Bryan Taylor Johnson @callmemr.jacobs* (CW Jacobs) Cameron Davis* Cameron Krone* @cameronpostforoosh* Camilo Rios Carl Grim (UK) Carlos Nunez* (@nuneztrip) Carlos Reyes Carlos Santos (NJ) @c_arousel Charlie Himmelstien* Chris Anthony (@chrisanthonyphoto) Chris Blaski (@chrisblaskiphoto) Chris Rout (UK) Christian Behr* Christian Benner* Christian Benoit Christian Bragg Christian Rios* Christian Scott (UK) Christopher Edward Night @christoph.night* @chuck* (Chuck Lang) Clayton Branon* Clayton Nelson* Clint Padilla* (@clint) Craig Lawrence

originally posted by @shitmodelmgmt names of industry abusers were submitted anonymously by models names with asterisks were submitted over 3 times 198/299 have asterisks

Craig Michael Fleming Cristian Buitron (@cbtrn) Corbyn Thomas-Smith (@cravemoore) Conner Pawlowski (@Pawlowskism) @creativesmiles* Dane Darden* Daniel Adams Daniel Matallana* Daniel OG Daniel Rodrigues (danielrodrigues.it) Daniel Topic Darren Tieste* Darwaysh Onhisown Dave Fothergill Dave Glover Dave Levingston David Allan Joyce David Alan Margi David Bellemere* David Cruse David Leslie Anthony David Mandelberg David Moser David Paul Larson* David Perry (owner of Barney’s) David Schulze Dawidh Orlando* Daylan Jacob Miller* @dearingfilm Derek Heinemann Derek Warburton (celeb stylist) @derickg Devin Blaskovich* Diego Palomino Dimitri Theocharis @dirtbagmark* Dominique Murchison (@niqko) Don Poling (Seattle)

Donlee Brussel* Doug Ochoa Douglas Mott Douglas Robert* @drew.bey @dricodia (Andrico Reid) @e.motion Ed Little Edgar René (@edgar_vm) Eduardo Von Garcia @edward_mag* Edward Miller (@thecopymachine.co) Elio Alnetti Emanuele D’Angelo* (@livincool) Eric Fischer* Eric Stern* Eugen Shakir Eugen Shakir Sela Evan Roales (London) Ezra Patchett Fabio Crovi Fabio Munich Fabio Munis* Fabrizio Del Rincon* Federico Lecce* (Independent Mgmt Milan) Federico Pignatelli Felix Rachor Fer Torrejon Fernando Merino* Fernando Paz* Francesco Scognamiglio* Francisco Tavoni* (@tavoni) Frank B (makeup artist) Frank Zhen (@zhenmaster) Gabriel Gutierrez (@gabrielgphotos) Garreth Barclay 103

Gary Kirk Brown* Gavin O’Neill* Gavriel Maynard George Brown* (former RED agent) Gianmaria Cassani (Major Models) Gilad Sporta* Giorgio Ammirabile @goodluckrancel (Rancel) Greg (@caliexclusive) Greg Kadel* greg vaughn* Gregorio Campos* (@gregoriophotography) gregory moore Guerman Aliev Guido di salle* Hadar Pitchon* Hans Staunch Hans Huylebroeck Harvey Jackson hennessy vandheur* Herve Lewis Horacio Hamlet* Ian Pokrief @imagesbykali Imran Ciesay @imruhul* @imustbedead (AZ) @inner_beauty_photographyvt Ivan Arocena (Comas)* Jack Guy* (@jackguyphotography) Jack Russell (UK) Jacob Benjamin Taylor* Jake O’Donnell Jake Rosenberg* James Fabius (@james1fab) (“Publisher” of Hellion Magazine) James Schmeltzer jamie burke Jason Acton Jason Exferd (Chicago) jason kanner* (@jasonsoul1) Jason Eugene (@hellojumbo / 104

(@jasonxeugene) Jaosn Knade* (@smallbatchphoto) Jason Harynuk* (@jasegraphics) Jason Haven (DC) Jason Konrad Jason Sobe Jason Treloar* Jason Wallace* (agent at MP Management) Javier Ovalles (Brilliant Moments Photography) Jay (@liverichmedia) Jay Marroquin Jay Mawson Jay (_mr.nolove_) Jay (@wtfckjay) Jeff Cohn (@jeffcohnphoto) Jeff Johansson* (@tmsproductions) Jeffrey Mcnolte* Jeiroh Yanga* (booker in NYC) Jeremy Kost* Jeremy Scott* Jesse Perez (@nydeliveryguy3) Jim Gormley (UK) Jimmy Johnston Joe Dimattia* (@BellaDonnaPhoto) Joe Harary (also goes by Joe Harray) (@true_image_photo) Joe Labisi Joe Lally John Babin* (Red Model Management) John Everette Perry (California) (charged with sexual assault) John Farrar (UK) John Hughes John Walker John Walter* (@Johnnycinematic) Johnny Fadlallah Johnny Rozier* Jon Burns

Jon Lorentz Jon Tan Jonas Bresnan* Jordan Craig Jordan Doner* Jordan Green* @joshuaburton_ Josh Stringer Joseph Hernandez (@josephcaptures) Joseph Chen Josue Peña June St. Paul Justin Kercher (@dotheextraordinary) Justin Murdock* Juan Carlos Tubilla Juan Manuel Gaggero Junior Vipent (Shackleton Joseph) Kai Z Feng Karim Amatullah Karl Simone* Keith Cameron Kelly Serfos* Kenn Perry Kent Avery* (@kentaveryphoto) Kesler Tran* Kevin Amato Kevin Hatt Khalid (MP Miami) Khoui Bui (Kook) Kil Park Kim Prasanna @king.brav Kosal “Trent” Chau Kourosh Sootoodeh Krzysztof Herholdt Lanny Zenga Larry Carlson* Larson Sotelo* Leonardo “Leo” Corredor* Lenin Glass Leslie Lessin (Billingsly) (stylist and VNY Agent)

Livio Manicelli* Louie Aguila* Luc Coiffait* (@luccoiffait) Luca Erbetta Luca Giorgio Lucian Bor* Lucian Wintrich Luciano Doria Luciano Fileti Luis Monteiro* Luke Fontana (LA) @luvgenstudio* Mani Zarrin* (NY) Manuel Xabier Mar (@mamudsny) Marc Baptiste* (@marcbaptiste007) marco falcetta* Marco Macchi* (Boom Models Milan) Marcus Hyde* Marcus Lopez Marianne Tamposi (Florida) Mario Lomas Mario Lopez (@aztecphoto) Mario Sorrenti Mario Testino* Mark Avenue* Mark Del Mar* (@bleeblu) Mark Velasquez Marlon Cordero (@marloncordz) Marvin Henderson* Massimo Tacchini (mens booker at Major Milan) Mathias Faltmarsch Mathieu Vladimir Alliard* Matt Lian* Matteo Linguiti (@lazarus_taxon_) Matteo Montanari* Matthew J. Ellenberger (@mjellenberger) Max Weiss (San Diego) Maxwell Mason (@maxwellmason) 105

Mauricio Montani Maxence Orard* Medi Varvani Mian Wilson (@agfthegoat) Michael (@_taciturnforsale_) Michael del Buono* Michael (@fotos_by_doc) (works for Ultraviolet Magazine, based in SoCal) Michael Haase (hair stylist for Wella) Michael Smith London (@smithtownstudios) Michael William Paul* Michael Woodward* (DC area) Michalis Lavdiotis (Greece) Micheal Patrick Michel Nafziger* Michel Tileri Mike Matos* Mikkel Kristensen* Mohamed Hadid* @monsieurcoms* (Maxime Comtois) @montoya Nash Pitla* (@iamnashnyc) Nathaniel Dam Nathaniel Gerdes Neal Vincent Neo Tony Lee* @nelly.king Nelson Castillo Nicholas Cambata* Nicholas Von Thrower* (@flowersdaddy) Nick Jordan* (@nicovision_photography) Nick Ramirez* Nick Rivers Nick Sabatalo* Nick Walters* Niklas HĂ¸jlund Nikomen Trunen (London) Nicola Ranaldi (Milan) 106

NolĂŠ Marin* @okayokaymag Olivier Zahm* Omar Marcos Ozzy Calderon Palle Hansen Panagiotis Parisis Parker Fitzgerald* Pat Blue (@patbluephoto) Patrick Hoelck Patrick Simon (Elite Paris) Patrick Xiong* Patrik Andersson* Paul John (@thepauljohn) Paul Liam R. Du Bois Paul Marciano* Paul Thatcher* Payam Emrani (LA) Pele Joez @perdo_rollerjr Pete Jones (@petejonesphotography) Peter Beard Peter Brown Peter Claussen (@peterclaussen) Peter Koval* Phil Struggle (@philstruggle) Phil Sullivan (@insightphil) Phillp Raheem Pink* (@pinkgkf) QK di Genaro Ramsey Spencer* Randall Slavin* Randy Basso* Rasmus Mogensen @rayscorruptedmind* Reda Rusty* Ren Lara Renie Saliba* Ricardo Seco (@secoricardo) @riccphoto

Rich Clark (@Richclark_photo ) Rich Lieberman Rich Meade* (Click ATL) @richphoto305 Rick Day* RN Productions (Seattle / California) Robbie Merritt (WA) Robert Voltaire* Roberto Irizarry (booker for Element Model Management, Atlanta) Rodney Ray* (@rrayimages) Ron Boyd* Ronald Stewart Rory DCS* Roudy Leonard* Rowan Hamilton Roy Schwalbach Rupert Kaldor* Russel Wong Ryan Colby* (@c0lby) Ryan Kenny* Ryan Myers (Athens, GA) Sam Ijaz Samuel Ellett @scottbonniephoto* Scott Lipps* Scott Parker Hall Sean Alonso* (@1shotphoto) Sean Rosenthal Sean Watters * Sebastian Sauve Sergio Garcia Seth London* Seth Sabal* @shannonvision Shawn Arrington* Shawn Negri (BlackKat Photography)* @sheeshotme @shotbychris Simon Hadler Sinisha Necevic

@sirneave* @slaygodnate Stefano Bidini Stephen Desantis Stephen LaMarche* Stephen Orso (NYC Promoter) Steven Badias* (NYC promoter) Steve Otte* (@stevenotte) Steve Shaw @strandmalibuproductions Suleyman Stella* Tanner Mennenga Taseda knight* Taylor Hendrich Terry Richardson*** Tess Feuilhade @TFMgirls @thi_js Thom Perry Tigre Escobar Tim Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Keefe* Timur Emek* Tiziano Lugli* Todd Barrett Tom Ford Tommy Mendes Tom Ordoyno Tom Saint Clair* Tony Duran * Tracy Russel* (@jackrussel_photo2) Troy Hodnett Troy Young Tyrone Lavigne Wilbur* (Two Mgmt LA) William Lords* Yannick Kranstauber* (@houseofy) Yu Tsai* Yvan Rodic (@facehunter) Zach Venice* (@zachvenice) Zsombor Burany (@iamzsombor) Zsolt Krakter* 107

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CLOSING WORDS by model and author Sarah May

This is the paradox: we are out in the open, producing art with friends, sometimes for money and sometimes not, people can see what we do, people are watching, and we are the creative front. But also, we are vulnerable. We are changing clothes behind a see-through curtain, we are pushing ourselves and our bodies past points of comfort for a great photograph, we see other models posing sexier than us on our screens and all the ‘likes’ that accompany them and we want it, and our bodies being beautiful, our faces being symmetrical is our livelihood so yeah, if we get unwanted attention, that’s just a workplace hazard. Both are happening. We experience both sides of the coin. The good and the bad, like with any other field, coexists. It is our jobs to dismantle the second part while protecting the first. And if it doesn’t work, if the bad-behavior persists, you tell. You protect your people. Hell, publish a magazine about it. 109

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CONTRIBUTORS ADA QUEK (writer 20-23)

SPECIAL THANKS

CARYN FRANKLIN (writer 10-13)

Christi Nielsen

CHRISTOPHER MICHAEL (photographer 2, 33) ISABEL ARCELLANA (writer 30-34) KAYLA MENDEZ (photographer 11, 22, 24) LAUREN SHARKEY (writer 24-29) MICHAEL STARK (photographer 35, 108, 110) NATALY KEOMOUNGKHOUN (writer 14-19) NATHAN DUMLAO (photographer 29) NICK GLOVER (photographer 4, 17, 40-101) SARAH MAY (writer 34-35, 108-109)

for overseeing this project and helping me through moments of self-doubt. My friends and peers for giving me advice on everything from layout design to editing and endless words of

support. My parents for making me feel loved and reminding me to take breaks often.

My nurses and doctors

for keeping me alive during nine of the scariest and most stressful days of my life and getting me strong enough to finish this project.

Every model and industry professional who was brave enough to

share their story and be candid with me about a topic that can be extremely hard to talk about. You are continuing a conversation that should never end. Finally, you, the

reader for taking the time to learn about something so close to my heart.

I want this industry to change. I want models to feel safe and protected in their workplace. I want the power to be taken out of the hands of abusers and predators who ruin the lives of so many models. Thank you for being part of the change.

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NATIONAL SEXUAL ASSAULT TELEPHONE HOTLINE 800-656-4673 NATIONAL SEXUAL VIOLENCE RESOURCE CENTER nsvrc.org NATIONAL ORGANIZATION FOR VICTIM ASSISTANCE trynova.org

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"THE ONLY PEOPLE WHO KNOW THOSE NAMES ARE THE SAME ONES WHO DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T CARE"