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Welcome to December Christmas should be all about spending time together and enjoying the festivities rather than endless to-do lists. That’s why we’ve packed this issue with recipes and advice to make the season’s meals both simple and special. Our easiest-ever Christmas dinner (p42) requires absolutely no prep in the days ahead: the entire meal (including amazingly crispy roast potatoes) is ready in just three hours. So you can lie in on Christmas morning, have a leisurely breakfast (the kids will want a Rudolph pancake (p76), put the turkey in the oven at noon, and sit down to lunch with all the trimmings at 2pm. If you’re entertaining, our contributing editor (and party queen) Rosie Birkett has wise words to share (p27). With years of experience as a home and professional cook, she takes a relaxed, big-dish, time-saving approach. ‘The festive period should be one long, merry feast,’ she says. ‘But as much as I adore entertaining, food is my job and I don’t want it to feel like work at this time of year.’ And so say all of us. Finally, why not see in the New Year with a make-ahead menu of chicken liver parfait, beef short ribs and caramel puddings (p114) – simple to prep, and a suitably luxurious end-of-year celebration. Have a wonderful festive season from all of us at Good Food.
Subscribe this month and you’ll receive a set of Salter kitchen scales, worth £29.99. Turn to page 126 for this exclusive offer. Subscribers also get great savings on live shows, travel and Good Food events. TO SUBSCRIBE OR FOR SUBSCRIPTION QUERIES Call 01795 414754 Email bbcgoodfood@ servicehelpline.co.uk
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Gillian Carter, Editor
PS For a present with a difference, enjoy time in your kitchen making a special recipe kit for a fellow food lover (p121).
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 5
EASIEST EVER CHRISTMAS DINNER
Diana Henry gets creative with cured and smoked salmon
TOM’S FESTIVE KITCHEN
Halloumi fries, plus what’s new this month – cookbooks, party food and the best of the BBC
Four new glamorous cocktails
PARTY GUIDE FOR FOODIES
33 35 37
BEHIND THE HEADLINES
Rosie Birkett’s expert advice for stress-free entertaining Saying no to sugar
THE NEW DRINK RULES
66 75 78
Discover what’s on Victoria Moore’s Christmas wish list
HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS
98 104 107
MIDWEEK FAMILY MEALS
Speedy, easy and affordable QUICK FIXES
Breakfast pancakes are a simple treat over the holidays
Fabulous recipes for those days between Christmas and New Year GUEST CHEF Gizzi Erskine’s easy yet impressive party bites Bake a melting snowman cake COOKING FOR KIDS
Big-batch comfort food for a relaxed family gathering SIMPLY GOOD FOOD
Prepare-ahead New Year’s Eve menu to share with friends HOMEMADE GIFTS A recipe kit is a great present for a foodie friend MASTERCHEF MAKEOVER
John Torode’s pork Wellington
Inspiration for your leftovers from nutritional coach Joe Wicks
129 80 82 85
8 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Modern Christmas recipes from BBC chef Tom Kerridge
GF RESTAURANT REVIEW
The Refuge in Manchester
Our time-saving celebration menu – all ready in three hours
EMMA’S BIG APPLE Emma Freud
bids farewell to New York MY LIFE ON A PLATE Former Spice Girl Mel C shares treasured recipes SHARE YOUR RECIPES
MARINA O’LOUGHLIN EATS…
Our reviewer is on top of the world in the Austrian Tyrol WINTER WEEKEND BREAKS Argyll, Canterbury and the Cotswolds INSIDER The best places to eat and drink in Liverpool
celebrate the season
Festive recipes, glamorous cocktails and perfect parties
MASTERCLASS Theo Randall’s classic
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BEST OF THE BBC TV RECIPE A crumble from Bake Off, p18 TOM KERRIDGE Christmas recipes, p56 THEO RANDALL Classic lasagne, p148 JOHN TORODE MasterChef makeover, p124
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DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 9
Party food and cocktails, Christmas TV and our top cookbooks
Photograph TOM REGESTER Food styling BECKY WILKINSON Styling JO HARRIS |
edited by ELAINE STOCKS
Halloumi fries As a nation we love halloumi, with online searches increasing by nearly 100% in a year at bbcgoodfood.com, to upward of 230,000 searches this August alone. This salty cheese from Cyprus has become far more than a BBQ staple. Now we cook it all year round in salads, burgers, wraps – and this month deep-fried, as chips. They make a great party snack. Why they’re on-trend Following on from courgette fries, sweet potato fries and avocado fries, it was only
a matter of time before the food world was going to find a new ingredient to fry. Halloumi is particularly good as it has a high melting point, so keeps its shape. Where to find them? Highly Instagrammable, you’ll find halloumi fries at Oli Baba’s (@oli_babas) at Kerb food market in Camden, London, while Dylans at The Kings Arms in St Albans, Hertfordshire (@dylanskingsarms), serves them with habanero jam and harissa. Better still, make your own at home. Sophie Godwin
Turn the page for our recipe
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 13
Russet measuring cups, £24, anthropologie. com Christmas baking just got prettier with these gorgeous copper measuring cups
Winter roof bars Enjoy a cosy hot toddy al fresco – check out Selfridges Forest on the Roof pop-up in London (selfridges.com), or the terrace at Headrow House in Leeds (headrowhouse.com).
Skinny prosecco The lower-sugar version by Thomson & Scott has just 7g sugar per litre (regular prosecco has 12 15g) – currently available at Harrods and amazon.co.uk, expect to see it in supermarkets soon.
Halloumi fries SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
170g pot Greek yogurt 1 lemon, zested, then cut into wedges for squeezing 1 tbsp rose harissa 3 tbsp za’atar, plus extra for sprinkling 75g plain lour 2 x 250g blocks halloumi, cut into fries oil, for frying handful mint, leaves torn
1 Mix the yogurt with the lemon zest and some seasoning, then swirl through the harissa so that you have pockets of hot and cool in the dip. 2 On a plate, stir the za’atar into the flour, then roll the halloumi in the mixture so that it’s evenly coated. Heat the oil in a shallow, heavybottomed pan or casserole dish until 180C on a cooking thermometer, or a piece of bread browns in 20 secs. Working in batches, carefully lower the halloumi into the oil and cook for 2 mins until crisp and golden, then drain on kitchen paper. 3 Sprinkle over the mint and za’atar, and serve with the lemon wedges and the spicy yogurt for dipping. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 406 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 16g • carbs 13g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 23g • salt 2.7g
14 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
barometer Noisy theatre food
ON OUR RADAR
Larder Fair Larder Fair is a food subscription service, but not as you know it. Tom Scully (above left) and Ben Russell, who are based in London, have created the UK’s irst lexible craft food box scheme – making it easier for food-lovers to access artisan produce from across the UK. As with other box schemes, you sign up online and pay a monthly balance, but instead of receiving a mystery box at a set time each month, you’re in control of exactly what you get and when. ‘You can make an order whenever the mood strikes you, or save up credit and splurge on a huge delivery,’ says Ben. ‘By receiving a small subscription each month, we can still pay our suppliers quickly to ensure they have the best possible chance of growing their business.’ As well as Gloucestershire Biltong Company’s biltong and booze-infused smoked salmon from The Pished Fish, in Camberwell, south London, the site offers British cheeses, sauces, chocolate and more. larderfair.com Anna Lawson
Rustling and chomping in cinemas and theatres could be a thing of the past as ticket irm TodayTix (todaytix. com) launches silent snacks, including ‘muffled truffles’ and ‘quiet (pop)corn bites’.
Plastic cutlery France is the irst country to ban plastic cups, cutlery and plates. Any disposable crockery must now be biodegradable or recyclable.
Selection box toffee Nestlé recently announced it was replacing its Toffee Deluxe with a Honeycomb Crunch in its Quality Street selection.
Oyster toppings recipes MIRIAM NICE | Photograph TOM REGESTER Food styling BECKY WILKINSON Styling JO HARRIS
New London venue Hipchips serves crisps made from ive potato varieties, straight from a conveyer belt (hipchips.com).
Halloumi fries recipe SOPHIE GODWIN | Barometer ANNA LAWSON | Quality Street photograph ALAMY | Larder Fair portrait MATTHEW HAMMOND – MSH PHOTOGRAPHY
Crisps on the menu
Oyster toppings Fresh oysters nestled on crushed ice are one of lifeâ€™s decadent yet affordable luxuries. Spoon over one of these inventive festive toppings to impress your guests
Cut the peel from 1 preserved lemon and chop very finely. Stir in 1 tbsp Campari and 2 fresh orange juice. Stir, then add to 6 freshly shucked oysters and serve immediately.
Mix together 1/4 pack dill, chopped, with 1 tsp small capers and the juice and zest of 1 lemon. Add to 6 freshly shucked oysters and serve straight away.
Japanese inspired Very finely chop 3 sprigs coriander, 1 small red chilli, deseeded, and 1 tsp sushi ginger. Stir in the juice of 1/2 lime, then spoon over 6 freshly shucked oysters. Top each with a pinch of crispy onions.
Middle Eastern Combine 25g pomegranate seeds, the zest and juice of 1 lime and 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses. Serve alongside 6 freshly shucked oysters to drizzle over before eating.
Mediterranean chic Very finely chop 1 small celery stick and mix with 2 tbsp dry vermouth. Divide between 6 freshly shucked oysters to serve.
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 15
Glamorous cocktails Party in style with new recipes from four of the UK’s most exciting mixologists Eastern breeze
Salted caramel pecan sour
St Nick’s flip
‘The lead-up to Christmas is very hectic, so my cocktail couldn’t be simpler to make and is perfect for large groups,’ says Sabrina Ghayour, award-winning food writer (sabrinaghayour.com @Sabrina Ghayour). Her latest book is Sirocco (£25, Mitchell Beazley).
‘I’ve created a modern version of a classic sour cocktail, with the addition of salted caramel and Icelandic vodka,’ says Josh Ramsay, from The Blackbird, Edinburgh (theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk @TBBedin). ‘To make your own dehydrated orange slices, thinly slice an orange and spread out on a parchment-lined baking tray. Cook in the oven at 110C/90C fan/gas 1/4 for 2 hrs until thoroughly dried.’
‘Quite simply, this is a Christmas dessert in a glass!’ say Nick Jones and Leah de Felice Renton, Birds & Bats Wines (birdsandbats.co.uk @WinesofMD)
Fill six highball or big wine glasses with ice and divide 300ml vodka between them. Add 24 mint leaves, seeds from 1 pomegranate (about 1 heaped tsp per glass) and 600ml apple juice, then stir with a straw or chopstick to muddle. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 167 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 11g • sugars 11g • ibre 1g • protein none • salt none
Spice 75 ‘This is a sophisticated, aromatic twist on the classic French 75,’ says Kyle Wilkinson, head bartender at Beaufort Bar, The Savoy, London (fairmont.com/savoy @TheSavoyLondon). SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
Gently warm 60g golden caster sugar in a pan with 30ml water and 1 tbsp allspice. Cook gently until the sugar has dissolved, then leave the mixture to cool. Strain through a sieve lined with a coffee filter (or a double layer of kitchen paper). Pour 60ml of the spiced syrup into a cocktail shaker along with 200ml rum and 90ml lime juice. Shake with ice and strain between six flute glasses. Top up with 600ml champagne and garnish each with an orange twist. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 207 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 16g • sugars 15g • ibre none • protein none • salt none
16 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins MORE EFFORT
100g pecans, inely chopped 160g golden caster sugar 1 /2 tsp sea salt falkes 300ml Reyka vodka 3 egg whites 120ml fresh clementine juice (about 2 3 clementines) 18 drops chocolate bitters (we used Fee Brothers Aztec chocolate bitters) ice 6 dehydrated orange slices, to serve good grating of nutmeg, to serve
1 Toast the pecans in a dry saucepan for 1-2 mins, then take off the heat. Quickly add the sugar and 80ml water, stir rapidly to dissolve the sugar, add the salt, then leave the mixture to cool completely. Pour through a sieve to remove the pecans. 2 Pour the pecan salted caramel syrup, vodka, egg whites, clementine juice and bitters into a cocktail shaker. Shake hard for 30 secs to add volume to the egg white. Add some ice and shake again for a further 15 secs, then strain into rocks or coupe glasses. Garnish each with a dehydrated orange slice and grate fresh nutmeg over, to taste. Serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 358 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 1g • carbs 29g • sugars 29g • ibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.5g
200ml cognac 150ml muscat wine (we used Rutherglen) 60ml simple syrup (we used Funkin Sugar Cane Syrup) 6 egg whites 120ml double cream ice 6 strips of pared orange peel 6 cloves 6 pinches of ground cinnamon
1 Pour a third of all the ingredients (except the pared orange, cloves and cinammon) into a cocktail shaker with a handful of ice. 2 Shake hard for 1 min, then strain into two wine glasses. Repeat twice more with the remaining ingredients using fresh ice each time. Stud each piece of pared orange with a clove, then use to garnish each glass along with a pinch of cinnamon. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 246 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 8g • sugars 4g • ibre none • protein 4g • salt 0.2g
For more cocktail recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
Photograph WILL HEAP Food styling KATY GREENWOOD Styling AGATHE GITS
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
Salted caramel pecan sour
St Nickâ€™s flip
BBC TV RECIPE
The Great Christmas Bake Off Mulled wine, cranberry & apple crumble
CHEF’S ADDRESS BOOK
Matt Tebbutt The BBC chef recommends favourite places to eat out. He will present BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen on New Year’s Eve with guest chefs Galton Blackiston and Yotam Ottolenghi
For the very best fish cooking it’s hard to beat The Seahorse in Dartmouth. Its old-school dining room nods to the greats of Italy, and the host Mitch Tonks’s enthusiasm is infectious. seahorserestaurant.co.uk
I always get fantastic pub food at The Fox & Hounds in Hunsdon, Hertfordshire – beautiful ingredients, seasonally prepared, generous and to the point. foxand hounds-hunsdon.co.uk
One of my favourite London restaurants is Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair. Simply brilliant, imaginative dishes in a very snug restaurant. kitty ishers.com
When it’s a special occasion we head for The Walnut Tree near Abergavenny for Shaun Hill’s effortless yet inspired cooking. thewalnuttreeinn.com
I could easily spend a day in the Boqueria Market in Barcelona – the little cafés dotted about offer fantastic plancha (grilled ish), and sherry for breakfast!
It’s a long way from home but I love The Goods Shed in Canterbury: great seasonal produce, a butcher, onsite bakery, and a brilliant café utilising everything around the store. The owner has a great ethos regarding food and the local supply chain. thegoodsshed.co.uk
My wish list includes Nathan Outlaw’s in Cornwall. His food looks terri ic and he’s a very down-to-earth, genuine guy. outlaws.co.uk
I’m busy, busy! As well as Saturday Kitchen, I will be presenting a special Christmas series on BBC One with chef Andi Oliver – who was recently named as a judge on the next series of BBC Two’s Great British Menu. We will be hosting Christmas Kitchen every afternoon for two weeks until 16 December. We’ll be joined by chefs, including Thomasina Miers and Sabrina Ghayour, plus celebrity guests. Catch Saturday Kitchen every week from 10am on BBC One.
18 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
This is the perfect Boxing Day dessert – a spiced wine-infused fruity crumble to follow the cold meats and salad. Cranberries work well with cooking apples and, along with the mulled wine, tint the fruit filling a ruby-red colour. SERVES 4 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY
For the mulled wine 150ml red wine 4 tbsp demerara sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1 clementine, stuck with 2 cloves good grating of nutmeg 2 cardamom pods For the crumble topping 50g plain lour 50g ground almonds 50g blanched hazelnuts, toasted and ground 50g unsalted butter, chilled and diced, plus extra for greasing 50g demerara sugar For the illing 1kg cooking apples (preferably Bramleys or Howgate Wonders) 75g fresh or frozen cranberries fresh vanilla custard or vanilla ice cream, to serve
1 Start by making the mulled wine, which can be done up to a day ahead – the longer it can be left to infuse, the better (you could also use up any ready-made mulled wine). Put the wine, sugar, cinnamon, clementine, nutmeg and cardamom in a small pan. Heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved and the wine is hot but not boiling. Remove from the heat, cover the pan and leave to infuse for at least 1 hr, and up to a day. 2 Meanwhile, make the crumble topping. Put the flour, almonds and
hazelnuts in a large bowl and mix well with your hands. Add butter and rub in until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in the sugar. Cover the bowl with cling film and keep in the fridge until needed (can be kept chilled for up to 48 hrs). 3 When ready to assemble the crumble, grease a large baking dish with butter. Peel, quarter and core the apples, then cut into thick slices straight into a large pan. Add the cranberries (no need to thaw if frozen), strain the mulled wine into the pan (discarding the flavourings), then set over a medium heat. Cook gently, stirring frequently, for 10 mins or until the cranberries burst and the apples start to soften. Remove from the heat. Taste the mixture: depending on the apple variety, you may need to add a little more sugar. Put the mixture in the baking dish and leave until cool. 4 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Scatter the crumble topping evenly over the fruit. Bake for 30-35 mins until the crumble is golden brown and the filling is starting to bubble up around the edges. Serve hot with custard or ice cream. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 381 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g • carbs 44g • sugars 37g • ibre 4g • protein 5g • salt 0.2g
Recipe adapted from The Great British Bake Off – Perfect Cakes & Bakes to Make at Home by Linda Collister (£20, Hodder & Stoughton).
Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER Food styling KATY GILHOOLY Styling LUIS PERAL
Christmas cakes and corny crackers in the tent as Mary Berry, Paul Hollywood, Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins reunite with eight former contestants for the Great Christmas Bake Off on BBC One
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 19
Our picks of the year Who do the Good Food team turn to for inspiration? Here are their choices Ottolenghi: The Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (£27, Ebury Press) Re-edited to celebrate the pair’s incredible journey since opening Ottolenghi in Notting Hill in 2002, the book reveals what they’ve learned over the years. Bold lavours, plus even more colour and vibrancy – these updated recipes are ideal for entertaining. If you don’t have the original, this is a must-buy. When I’m cooking for friends, this is the irst book I turn to. Chelsie Collins ScandiKitchen: Fika & Hygge by Bronte Aurell (£16.99, Ryland Peters & Small) The Scandinavian words ‘ ika’ and ‘hygge’ (pronounced who-guh) signify cosiness, treats and conviviality. All three are celebrated in this gorgeous book, packed with pastries, cookies, cakes, breads – even homemade crispbread – to share all winter and beyond. I also loved Bronte’s little insights into Scandinavian life and traditions. Elaine Stocks The World of the Happy Pear by Stephen & David Flynn (£18.99, Penguin) This book, the second from the twin brothers behind the hugely successful Happy Pear cafés in Ireland, helped to change the way I think about vegetarian food. The recipes are exciting yet easy enough for midweek, from delicious veggie burgers to chocolate chilli topped with cornbread, creative salads and sugar-free bakes (the giant peanut butter cup is addictive). Even devout carnivores won’t miss the meat. Fiona Forman
Brew by James Morton (£20, Quadrille) Walking you through every single step of the process, James writes with knowledge, wit and passion, drawing on everything from traditional brewing methods to shop-bought kits and offering tips on the latest brewing software. Pictures are used to clearly highlight any detail, that could be ambiguous in the wording – great for a beginner brewer. Now I need to order some hops and malt. Miriam Nice Meathead: The Science of Great Barbecuing and Grilling by Meathead Goldwyn (£28.49, HMH) Tongs at the ready! To call this a barbecue bible is no overstatement – it’s simply the best book about outdoor cooking I’ve ever read. Meathead (a nickname that stuck) simpli ies traditional techniques, and debunks many common misconceptions about the best way to barbecue. Now I’ve found this book, I really can’t do without it. Barney Desmazery Stirring Slowly by Georgina Hayden (£20, Square Peg) Written with warmth, Georgina draws you in like an old friend. Her recipes are as comforting as they are clever and exciting. From celebration cakes to modern roasts, vegetable showstoppers and inventive breakfasts. These recipes are crowd-pleasers. The achievability of her recipes makes this book a new classic that I know I’ll return to time and again. Sophie Godwin
20 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Books for junior cooks Family editor Lily Barclay selects her top ive titles for children The Silver Spoon for Children: Favourite Italian Recipes (£12.95, Phaidon) This beautifully illustrated book has been especially adapted for children aged eight and over. Kids will love getting stuck into dishes like tomato bruschetta, rigatoni with meatballs and hazelnut cake. Making Bread Together by Emmanuel Hadjiandreou (£16.99, Ryland Peters & Small) Step-by-step recipes for fun, simple breads. You’ll ind breakfast and lunchbox recipes, as well as tips for perfecting your kneading and plaiting skills. Cook School by Amanda Grant (£14.99, Ryland Peters & Small) This clever book is packed with clear advice and recipes that will give your child con idence to tackle a variety of dishes in the kitchen. You’ll ind recipes for kids aged 3 5 years, 5 7 and 7 11. Eat your Greens, Reds, Yellows and Purples (£9.99, DK Children) This fun and colourful book introduces children to the nutritional bene its of vegetables. It features 25 simple vegetarian recipes for kids to make at home, such as mango & coconut pops and a sweet potato omelette. The World in My Kitchen by Sally Brown & Kate Morris (£12.99, Nourish) This takes children on a culinary adventure, introducing them to recipes from around the world. They should inspire kids to make and eat a variety of new foods.
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FOOD EDITOR’S BUYS
Cassie Best’s party nibbles BEHIND THE TRENDS
Prosecco This month, we chart the phenomenal rise of the nation’s new favourite izz
• Order from our BBC Good Food Wine Club and receive a free bottle of prosecco– turn to page 64
Fennel & chilli cheese sablés, £3.75 (80g), cravedlondon.com Seriously cheesy and studded with fennel and chilli, I couldn’t get enough of these moreish Scottish sablé biscuits – good with a glass of wine.
Cobble Lane cured coppa, £4 per 80g, cobble lanecured.com My favourite charcuterie from London-based charcutiers Cobble Lane is the coppa – slices of cured marbled pork collar with lavours of black peppers, cloves, nutmeg, mace and garlic.
The Snaffling Pig Co sage & onion pork crackling gifting jar (300g), £15.99, ocado.com Crispy doublecooked pork crackling meets limited-edition lavouring sage & onion – could this snack get any more festive?
Wreath Box, £40, Hotel Chocolat With a cookie studded chocolate wreath and 40 chocolates, including our new favourite lavour, Cinnamon Bun
ONE SMALL CHANGE
Whip up your own dip Shop-bought dips are often packed with fat and salt, according to a recent study. Despite being marketed as a ‘healthy’ option, researchers found that 75% of houmous tubs carried a red ‘traffic light’ warning for fat, while some contained more salt than four packets of ready-salted crisps. For the healthiest options, make your own. Find recipes at bbcgoodfood.com, including this butternut & harissa houmous.
22 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Health news SARAH LIENARD | Photographs GETTY, BBC
In the beginning It’s believed that wine from the prosecco-producing area of Italy was enjoyed in Roman times, but it wasn’t until the late 19th century that it underwent secondary fermentation to become sparkling wine. Then Prosecco broke into the UK market around 2010 and became an instant hit thanks to its thrifty price tag, crisp and dry lavour, and similarity to champagne. Now Sparkling wine sales have increased 80% in the past ive years, according to tax office igures. Mainstream UK sales hit £338m this year, up 72% on the previous year, according to retail analyst IRI. And the bubble shows no sign of bursting – this Christmas it’s been used to lavour everything from cheese to panettone. Enjoy it yourself There are three types of prosecco to try: spumante (sparkling), frizzante (semi-sparkling) and tranquillo (still). Find cocktail recipes, videos and guides at bbcgoodfood.com. Natalie Hardwick Read more about this year’s hottest trends by visiting bbcgoodfood. com/article/behind-trends.
Daylesford organic garlic & herb olives (185g), £3.99, ocado.com Fragrant basil and wild garlic give these Greek green olives a strong lavour without being overpowering.
update MENU DECODER
Ramen Each month we explore a restaurant trend, highlighting the key dishes and ingredients. This month, Kazuhiro Kanada, from Japanese restaurant Kanada-Ya, in London, explains what you need to know about authentic tonkotsu ramen, made with a pork bone broth. kanada-ya.com
of soy, aromatics and other ingredients packed with umami. Negi A type of spring onion with long dark leaves that resembles a chive and is milder than its English counterpart. Adds a slight kick to the ramen broth. Nori Edible seaweed species of red algae. Served as a paper-thin
square to accompany ramen and provide a salty, umami taste. Onigiri Rice shaped into triangles and often illed with savoury illings, such as ume (sour Japanese plum) or laked salmon. Often eaten alongside and dipped into a bowl of ramen. Try our turkey ramen recipe, p96.
Chashu Braised or marinated meat (usually pork) in a sweet, aromatic sauce of soy, sake and other lavourings. The slowcooked strips of meat then melt in the hot broth. Kikurage Dried strips of wood ear fungus that add a textural, crunchy element to the ramen once rehydrated. Mayu A traditional accompaniment to ramen – a pungent, black garlic oil prepared with fresh and dried garlic charred before blending. Motodare The ‘master sauce’ that serves as the base to ramen dishes – a highly concentrated blend
VEGETARIAN CHRISTMAS MAGAZINE Featuring more than 100 delicious recipes – including a new all-vegan Christmas Day menu. On sale now for just £3.90.
Butternut, chestnut & lentil cake
GF SHOWS Discover a BBC Good Food Show near you – ind out more on page 86. Readers save 30% on tickets!
TV EDITOR’S CHOICE What’s cooking across the BBC this month
MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS Catch the inal week of MasterChef: The Professionals on BBC Two later this month. The remaining four will cook for a table of Michelin-starred chefs and former champions, then ly to Oslo to cook at the ground-breaking Maaemo restaurant, before returning for the inal cook-off.
ALSO ON THE BBC THIS MONTH Sheila Dillon (right) is baking a fruitcake in her kitchen for a cake-themed
Out & about
There’s so many ways to enjoy Good Food
episode of the Food Programme, the irst in a four-part series called Tradition. In the show, on Sunday 18 December, Sheila meets bakers and cooks with Great British Bake Off champion John Whaite. Danish chef Trine Hahnemann joins Sheila for the second show on Christmas Day to discuss wild boar – once a popular celebration dish in Britain. The series will also focus on the food community in Loch Fyne and, for the inal show
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(on 8 Jan), the food traditions in Northern Ireland. Catch the Food Programme every Sunday at 12.30pm on Radio 4. Kathryn Custance
SHARE THE FUN! Tag your festive prepping, decoration and party photos #christmasmoments for your chance to feature on our social channels.
10 NOV 20 DEC Manchester Christmas Markets manchester.gov.uk/christmasmarkets O 11 NOV 18 DEC Leeds Christkindelmarkt leeds.gov.uk/christmasmarket O 24 NOV 11 DEC Bath Christmas Market bathchristmasmarket.co.uk O 8 18 DEC Oxford Christmas Market oxfordchristmasmarket.co.uk O 9 11 DEC BBC Good Food Festive Fayre, Hampton Court Palace, London bbcgoodfoodfestivefayre.com O 10 11 DEC Shrewsbury Winter Festival shrewsburychristmas.co.uk O 11 DEC Abergavenny Food Festival abergavennyfoodfestival.com O
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A festive wine wish list, say no to sugar, plus a buzzy new Manchester restaurant
my for foodies Whether youâ€™re planning an end-of-year blowout or a chilled evening with friends, make it a (stress-free) night to remember with Rosie Birkettâ€™s expert advice photographs TOM REGESTER DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 27
s a food writer and stylist, I spend most of my days cooking, writing and thinking about food, and by 25 December I’ve already cooked a few Christmas turkeys for photoshoots – usually during the blistering heat of high summer. So you might think that I would be sick of the whole thing by the time it gets to Christmas. Actually, the opposite is true. At Christmas I can share my favourite dishes, and the skills I’ve learned along the way, with those I love the most. The festive period should be one long, merry feast as far as I’m concerned. But as much as I adore entertaining, food is my job and I don’t want it to feel like work at this time of year. So here’s my advice on how to feed your friends and family, without making it hard on yourself.
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NEW WAYS TO FEED A CROWD Plan a pot-luck party Make life easier by asking your foodiest mates to each bring a dish. That way you know everyone will put in the effort and no one will wimp out with a pack of shopbought sausage rolls (although even these have their place at Christmas). Think about a varied, exciting menu with a few different main dishes rather than one big one, so no one person has to slave away or spend a fortune. Then add salads and something sweet. For informal dinners like this, I don’t bother with starters. Instead I’ll bust out crisps, simple dips, charcuterie, good bread and olive oil, salted almonds (I love the smoked ones) and big green olives. Then I’ll divvy out a few proteins, carbs and side salads to my pals, as well as links to foolproof recipes (BBC Good Food ones, natch!). You’ll need a mixture of veggie and meat dishes that can be transported easily; five-spice & sesame chicken wings that you can leave in their roasting tins work well, as does a big chipotle & black bean chilli. I love a spicy Asian or Mexican element to food at this time of year – it makes a welcome change to all the rich flavours. For carby sides, a gratin or bake can be shoved in the oven to warm
through easily. Make it special and seasonal by adding gently sweated leeks or thinly sliced celeriac with the potatoes and cream, and maybe a panko, thyme & chopped hazelnut topping for extra crunch and flourish. Grain-based salads, such as freekeh or barley, are a good shout as they’re substantial and hold up well when made ahead. Add a festive touch with dried fruits like sour cherries, cranberries, mixed nuts and toasted seeds. Keep them fresh and vibrant with chopped herbs and a punchy dressing (try clementine juice with olive oil and a splash of pomegranate molasses) – add these just before serving. For pudding, someone always has a good trifle recipe – try our eggnog trifle on bbcgoodfood.com with its snowy meringue topping, rich custard and fresh citrus. And a good shot of brandy, of course.
THIS YEAR’S HEROES
Get your fondue on Okay, it’s not strictly new, but this is fondue as you’ve never tasted it before and a good way to get your guests to mingle. Invest in good gourmet cheeses and dipping accoutrements for a special supper party. Comté cheese makes for a beautiful fondue, and why not get
all regional and mix it with a slug of Jura wine – or, failing that, fino sherry. Or take advantage of this golden era of British cheeses and opt for a smoked Lincolnshire poacher – divine with crispy sourdough croûtes and pigs in blankets to dip in. One of my new favourites is Baltic (available from paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk), a creamy mature cheese from Northumberland whose rind is washed in Liverpool Baltic summer ale. It’s wonderful mixed into the fondue with a glug of craft ale and crispy roast potatoes for dipping.
Go veggie So often vegetarians are undercatered for, but there should be no more excuses with all the inspiration from veggie-led chefs like Anna Jones, Yotam Ottolenghi and our veggie collection at bbcgoodfood.com. This year I’ll be dishing up a whole roasted cauliflower, complete with its crispy leaves, spiced with warming ground spices – cumin, cinnamon, cayenne and black cardamom. I’ll serve it with a clementine-spiked yogurt with fresh coriander, caramelised crispy shallots or toasted pumpkin seeds for crunch. Parsnips will be slathered in a butter & maple syrup glaze with crunchy flakes of Maldon sea salt
Update your table I like to dectorate my table by making it look special and abundant, but still feel effortless. Pineapples are having a moment, and they’re an ancient symbol of hospitality. I love to place a few down my long dining table. I also like lashes of greenery on the table: long stems of ivy in little glass jars; rosemary sprigs on place settings; and pine cones, leafy clementines and bowls of chestnuts in their shell. Think twinkly, magical Lapland cabin rather than tinsel-clad winter wonderland.
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Better value, fuller lavours Be canny and opt for underused cuts of meats that are cheaper and don’t scrimp on flavour. I love hogget (a lamb that’s older than one year) and goat. Both are fabulous roasted, will save you a few quid but deliver on flavour. Try a slow-cooked pulled goat shoulder in kebabs with fresh pickled pomegranate (bbcgoodfood.com/ pulled-goat-kebabs) or a rolled leg of hogget filled with woody herbs, wild mushrooms & breadcrumbs.
Get into a pickle Pickling was a huge trend this year, with books such as Pickled by Freddie Janssen (£15, Hardie Grant) and The Modern Preserver by Kylee Newton (£20, Square Peg) boosting their popularity. And what a refreshing mouthful these colourful flavour bombs provide amid all the richness of the season. Bread & butter pickles with sweet brine and loads of mustard seeds are quick and easy to make and particularly good with salmon (bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ bread-butter-pickles). I also
like more unusual contenders like pickled pineapple – try it in a cheese toastie (bbcgoodfood.com/ pickled-pineapple-grilled-cheese). Make your pickle a week or two ahead to let the flavours infuse.
It’s all in the cure Harking back to ancient kitchen traditions while observing modern flavour combinations is where it’s at right now. I make my own cured salmon because it’s more fun than buying it, plus you can control the flavours. I’ll do two or three sides of salmon in a cure mixture of sloe gin, elderberries and blackberries, grated beetroot and chopped dill for three days before serving them. This also gives them a gorgeous pink/purple colour. I lay them in the middle of the table with a sharp filleting knife, surrounded by crispbreads and sourdough crackers, and encourage my guests to slice and assemble their own open sandwiches with some quick homemade pickles. It’s a total crowd-pleaser. Turn to p52 for more ways with cured salmon.
Simple seafood For an intimate dinner for friends or family, few things are more special than stunning seafood, treated simply. Molluscs are best during the colder months – juicy scallops grilled in their shell with seaweed butter and a pinch of cayenne will have your guests in raptures, as will a platter of grilled langoustines. I buy packs of frozen ones as they’re cheaper but still sweet and delicate. Split them down the middle, remove the digestive tract and simply grill them with a garlic, parsley & lemon butter.
One-pot magic It’s seasonal and feels special, so feast on game. I make a mulled wine venison stew with festive spices, a kick of smoky chipotle chilli and a bottle of robust red. It’s a one-pot wonder you can leave to bubble away. Make it ahead, freeze it and it just improves. Serve it with celeriac mash or rice. Your guests will devour it.
Food styling KATY GILHOOLY Styling AGATHE GITS
and toasted cumin seeds. Carrots will be fragrant with a chervil, coriander seed and parsley salsa verde. Check out my festive celeriac koshari recipe on bbcgoodfood.com, a Christmassy update on the vegetarian Egyptian street food.
my DO O Use Christmas entertaining as a
way of purging your cupboards, fridge and freezer. That big bag of lentils at the back of the cupboard – cook it and combine it with caramelised onions, lemon juice, fresh herbs and plenty of olive oil to have as a side, or use them in a big sausage casserole. O Love your freezer. Have a good clear-out before the festive onslaught. Prep stews, chillies, pie illings and braises ahead, then freeze them. O Save on washing up, stress and planning with sharing plates. Think crudo, ceviche or carpaccio: superquick to throw together and a real treat. Try giant sausage (or venison) rolls you’ve baked until golden and then cut up for sharing (easy to make with pre-rolled puff), or crispy roast Jerusalem artichokes with rosemary and brown butter, served with cocktail sticks and aïoli for dipping. O And while we’re on the subject, make big bowls of dip. Everyone loves them, and most can be made ahead. I love romesco, the roasted red pepper dip, because it’s quick and utterly addictive. And a caramelised onion, chive & sour cream dip always keeps the crowd happy.
DON’T O Try to be the maître d’, chef and
sommelier all at once. It’s your house, not a Michelin-starred restaurant, so assign important jobs to trusted friends and family. O Bother with iddly vol-au-vents or canapés. They’re time-sapping and usually eaten in a lash by hungry drinkers. Much better to make an impact with tantalising snacks and sharing plates – see above. O Apologise and never explain. Everything you’ve made is fabulous – even the pie whose pastry has sunk off the side of the pie dish and into the stew. It’s real, it’s rustic, and it’s made with love.
• For more easy party bites, turn to p98
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the new wine rules
Dear Santa, Here’s my wish list…
Portrait CLARA MOLDEN
’m excited about my Christmas wine. Not the bottles I’ve put aside for the turkey lunch, or the Boxing Day free-for-all, or even for New Year’s Eve. The best Christmas wines are never the big-occasion bottles, or the ones that have been planned and budgeted for catering purposes (and, in some cases, maybe for awkward relative sedation). They're what I like to think of as The Stash: the wines – or wine, because often it’s just one bottle – that you buy at exactly the point when you think you have all you need, and that you pick for pure pleasure alone. We do actually have one Stash-worthy planned bottle in our house, and that’s champagne. My dad is anosmic – he has no sense of smell – mum can’t drink more than one and a half glasses without going into orbit, and for the past four years, for child-related reasons, I or my sister-in-law – or both of us – have been on thimblefuls only. So the Christmas Day glass of fizz is the only wine anyone really cares about, which means it needs to be good. I have my eye on the majestic Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV (£42, laithwaites.co.uk). The Heidsieck champagnes are a secret that wine people like to keep to themselves. A good red is an essential part of The Stash. I like festive reds to be rich, but with savoury flavours too. Wines from the southern Rhône always carry some of the heat of a warm sun, bringing wafts of dried herbs like a summer breeze. I love this gigondas,
Looking for a special bottle this Christmas? Our wine editor, Victoria Moore, reveals what she’d like to find under the tree
which also tastes of red confit fruits: Clos La Grande Boissiere Gigondas 2014 (£17.99, most Waitrose branches and waitrosecellar.com). Another glorious red is Fuligni Rosso di Montalcino 2013 (£22.50, Lea & Sandeman). It comes from the medieval Italian hill town of Montalcino in Tuscany and is reminiscent of sour cherries, polished antique wood and old leather. If that sounds odd, the wine’s not. Ideally I’ll also have a bottle of port on the go. Quinta do Noval LBV 2009 (£24, Oddbins) is so good that I think of it as a miniature vintage port, but one you can have for a fraction of the price. The grapes come from the ruggedly beautiful terraces of the Douro and are still trodden by foot. It’s unfiltered and you can taste the wilderness in every deep sip. Finally, if I’ve overspent so badly in the run-up to Christmas that not even one of these is a possibility, I hope I will still be able to afford a bottle of sherry: one of the most underrated wines in the world, and therefore also the best value. An icily-cold glass of Waitrose’s Solera Jerezana Fino del Puerto Lustau Sherry NV Spain (£9.99) will fit almost any Stash moment. It smells of salty sea air, freshly baked sourdough and iodine. I will drink it neat and also mixed with tonic. Merry Christmas. • For a great wine offer, turn to page 64
What I’m drinking this month Finest Sloe Gin (£16, Tesco) This has undercurrents of maraschino and pine – try it shaken with lemon juice, ice and egg white to make a sloe gin sour.
What to eat with…
Aldi Exquisite Limoux Chardonnay 2015, France (£6.99, Aldi) Quite rich, all lemon curd and barbecued banana, this Chardonnay’s creaminess is a match for the richness of the buttery Faux gras on p117.
Chateau de Pizay Morgon 2015, Beaujolais, France (£10.99, Majestic) Light-bodied refreshment among all the heavy festive food, its juicy red berry lavours go with the roast goose on p58.
Victoria Moore is an award-winning wine columnist and author. Her new book, The Wine Dine Dictionary, will be out next spring. @how_to_drink @planetvictoria Next month Victoria investigates non-alcoholic drinks
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 33
The Refuge WHERE The Refuge, Oxford Street, Manchester, M60 7HA, 0161 233 5151; refugemcr. co.uk COST Dinner for two around £80 BEST DISH Smoked feta with beetroot, hazelnut & dill VERDICT The food is pretty fantastic, it's a cracking space and any laws will be ironed out
ike many Mancunians, I owe much of my misspent youth (and worn knee cartilage) to the Unabombers. In the 1990s, this DJ duo ran the hugely influential club night Electric Chair and I was, briefly, a resident DJ at its spin-off, Homoelectric. Today, Justin Crawford (below left) and Luke Cowdrey are bar owners and restaurateurs, most notably at Didsbury’s Volta. Drawing inspiration from places they loved on DJ tours (London’s Caravan, Barcelona’s Cal Pep, Melbourne’s brunch cafés), they have cultivated a style – exacting food, super-relaxed atmosphere – that appeals to many of those ageing ravers who were once regulars at Electric Chair. Older now, they’re more into Ottolenghi than all-nighters. In short, the Unabombers know their local audience. Which is why the grand Palace Hotel – a stunner in Victorian glazed-brick – brought them in to create the new ground-floor Refuge. The hope is that the Unabombers can graft the hotel into the local leisure ecology as a democratic (there is a £7.50 lunch), all-day meeting place. This vast space could easily feel chilly. But on Saturday night, beautifully lit and with DJs providing a bubbling soundtrack of everything from Bobby O to Nina Simone in the bar, it exudes dusky warmth. The styling is well-calibrated for
Tony Naylor loves the vibe and the bold flavours at this Manchester venue, launched by two former DJs a building of this vintage – four open-plan, cleverly demarcated spaces: bar, restaurant, atrium garden, games room. It is glamorous in a sober way, hip but not overbearing. Staff are dressed down and infectiously upbeat though, at the busy bar, in dire need of direction. This is not the first delay I have endured here and, on this visit, it took a painfully slow 20 minutes to get a drink. Thankfully, in the restaurant, the service is on-point – arguably, it is too efficient. We’re told there is no hurry to return the table, so why does all the food arrive at once? We’re left speed-eating through a pile-up of dishes. Instead, these globetrotting sharing plates deserve patient
‘From a vivid mutabal to tuna tartare with passion fruit & avocado cream, this is bright, high-definition cooking’ consideration. Often composed of just three or four elements, they leave nowhere to hide. Ingredients must be A1, treated skilfully and deployed with confident restraint, as they are by chef Alex Worrall. There are minor flaws. Sticky nuggets of pork belly explode in the mouth, but the chimichurri lacks sharpness. Likewise, spoonably soft ox cheeks needed more sriracha to cut their gelatinous richness. But, generally, from a vivid mutabal to tuna tartare with passion fruit & avocado cream, this is bright, high-definition cooking of clearly delineated flavours. Lebanese lamb chops are excellent and accompanied by simple, parmesan crumb-dusted broccolini. No flim-flam. The star dish, though, is beetroot (blitzed to an ethereal lightness), scattered with smoked feta, hazelnuts & dill. It is both texturally neat and a zesty, almost funky flavour enigma. We swipe the dregs up with our fingers, a waiter encouraging us on – which encapsulates the Unabombers’ achievement at the Palace. They’ve taken this old-stager and turned it into a convivial expression of modern Manchester. The food is great. The vibe is good. Service hiccups aside, The Refuge feels like a keeper.
Tony Naylor lives in Manchester and has eaten his way around most of the city. He writes regularly for Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. Turn to p136 for his top places to eat in Liverpool. @naylor_tony Next month Dum Biriyani House in London’s Soho
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behind the headlines
Saying no to sugar It’s not easy giving up the sweet stuff, but Joanna Blythman discovers it is possible to retrain your palate. Here’s how she did it uring the Christmas festivities, when British households are awash with cakes, desserts, biscuits, chocolates and dried fruits, any prospect of making a dent in our sugar consumption seems daunting. However, anyone who cares about their health knows they have to face up to this challenge at some point, given the mounting scientific consensus that it is the prime culprit for obesity and associated illnesses. I began to consciously reduce sugar in my household about two years ago. We were off to a flying start, I thought, because we rarely have soft drinks, which are by far the easiest way to glug down lots of sugar without even noticing it. Nevertheless, we were still managing to get through bags of the stuff one way or another. So I researched sugar alternatives on the market. Artificial ‘diet’ sweeteners, which range from 200 times to a staggering 37,000 times sweeter than sugar, were possible candidates. However my tastebuds rebel against their intense sweetness, which – unlike real sugar – often leaves a tinny, bitter aftertaste. Also, the growing body of research that links artificial sweetener consumption to increased risk of type-2 diabetes and obesity only confirmed for me that they are no solution, and possibly counterproductive. New-wave ‘natural’, plant-derived sugar alternatives, like stevia and agave, sounded attractive until I took a hard look at how they are made. In many cases, high-tech methods are used to manufacture a finished product that’s quite divorced from the plant in its natural, unprocessed form.
Portrait ALAN PEEBLES
‘My lightbulb moment came when I stopped searching for healthier sugar substitutes’
So I scoured the shelves for sweet ingredients to use instead of white sugar: dates and date syrup, coconut and palm sugar (nectar), malted barley and rice syrups, maple syrup, grape molasses and honey. However, these are hugely more expensive than sugar, and swapping to syrups and honey does not reduce the ‘free’ sugars in your diet (the added sugars we’re recommended to cut down on). My lightbulb moment came when I stopped searching for healthier sugar substitutes, and started retraining my palate to expect a less sugary taste. I began by reducing the quantity of sweet ingredients in any dish I made. If a recipe called for 250g sugar, I’d cut it down to 225g, then 200g and so on. Quite quickly, many favourite recipes seemed unpalatably cloying – and surreptitiously sugary habits, like flavoured yogurt and tomato ketchup, appealed much less. My daughter’s boyfriend broke his three heaped teaspoons of sugar in coffee habit by replacing these initially with one teaspoon of coconut sugar. Progressively he used less until one day he neither needed nor wanted any sugar at all. Believe me, if you’re prepared to give it a try, it’s amazing how quickly you can reprogram your palate to perceive a vastly reduced amount of sugar as quite sweet enough – and kids are no exception. December is probably the toughest month to start, but the New Year, with its healthy eating and resolutions, will soon be here…
Good Food contributing editor Joanna is an award-winning food journalist who has written on the subject for 25 years. She is also a regular contributor to BBC Radio 4. @joannablythman
Next month Joanna investigates the growing popularity of veganism
Kick your habit Kerry Torrens, our nutritional therapist, advises: • Avoid sweet soft drinks and dilute bought fruit juice with an increasing percentage of water. Encourage your family to drink water at meals. • Eat fruit whole or blended, not juiced, to retain the ibre that slows down its impact on your blood sugar level. • Replace sugar with ingredients like cinnamon, vanilla and ground almonds for a ‘sweet’ taste without the sugar content. • For a sweet treat, dried fruit has the bene it of ibre (many of us don’t get enough), but stick to a handful a day, and combine with protein such as nuts to balance the sugar hit. If you want to cut down on sugar, look out for our Healthy Diet Plan next month, and ind low-sugar recipes at bbcgoodfood.com. We'd love to hear your views. Contact us at hello@bbcgoodfood magazine.com
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Seasonal cooking, including a no-fuss Christmas lunch and new festive dishes, p42
Eat well every day â€“ quick, easy midweek meals, plus healthy options, p66
Food stories: Mel C shares favourite recipes and Emma Freud bids farewell to New York, p80
Be inspired: parties, New Year's dinner and laid-back family gatherings, p88 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 41
Your turn to cook the big meal? Let us take some of the stress out of it for you with this modern, time-saving celebration menu recipes SOPHIE GODWIN photographs PETER CASSIDY
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Cookery writer Sophie Godwin, who trained at Leiths, worked as a chef in Sheffield before joining Good Food. She is passionate about seasonal, veg-centric cooking and loves creating big sharing dishes.
erriment aside, Christmas dinner can be a stressful affair, involving more time in the kitchen than with our family and friends. That’s why this year I am simplifying the Christmas meal, using timesaving techniques and flavour twists to create a wow-factor roast with the crispest potatoes you’ve ever eaten. The starter and dessert are no-cook and the whole menu can be made on the day – no forward prep required. It’s time to proudly embrace shortcuts – after all, no one will ever know you didn’t make the cranberry sauce…
YOUR TIMEPLAN to eat at 2pm your turkey out of the fridge. O 11.30am Heat the oven. Prepare the rosemary butter and rub underneath the turkey skin. O 12pm Put the turkey in the oven to roast. O 12.15pm Boil the potatoes and root vegetables. Make the harissa & orange marmalade glaze. Chop the ingredients for the stuffing sprouts. O 1pm Baste the turkey, pour in the white wine and nestle cabbage wedges around the bird. Return to the oven. O 1.10pm Prepare the separate ingredients for the mackerel starter. O 1.25pm Smash the roasties and put them in the oven. O 1.30pm Check the turkey – take out to rest if the internal temperature has reached 65C. Return the cabbage to the oven to inish cooking. O 1.35pm Toss the roasted roots in the harissa glaze, then put in the oven. O 1.40pm Make the gravy, cook the sprouts and keep warm. O 2pm Sit down to eat the starter, with everything for your lunch ready to go. O The dessert takes just 10 minutes to assemble, so you can do it once you’ve enjoyed the main course.
Cheat’s Christmas turkey with red cabbage wedges The turkey is cooked high and fast like a chicken, giving it extra crispy skin. As it comes out of the oven hotter than usual, it needs longer to rest so the meat can relax and stay succulent. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 2 hrs EASY
100g butter, softened 3 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked and inely chopped 1 turkey (around 4kg), giblets removed 1 garlic bulb 1 lemon, halved 2 bay leaves 2 large banana shallots, unpeeled, cut in half lengthways 250ml white wine 1 red cabbage (about 900g), cut into 6 wedges 500ml good-quality chicken stock 1 tsp corn lour (optional)
O 11am Take
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1 Take your turkey out of the fridge at least 1 hr before you cook it. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6 and beat the butter with the rosemary. Starting from the neck of the turkey, carefully push your fingers underneath the skin until you can get your whole hand between the skin and the breast meat. Trying not to tear the skin as you go, spread the butter inside the pocket, squishing some into the crevice between the thigh and breast meat.
Peppered mackerel & pink pickled onion salad This starter, with its quick pickled onion is impressive, but takes little time as it’s part of making the dressing. You can do it while the turkey is in the oven. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
240g pack peppered smoked mackerel, torn into pieces 100g bag watercress 250g pack ready-cooked beetroot 100g bag honey-roasted mixed nuts For the dressing 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced 3 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 Put the garlic, lemon and bay leaves inside the turkey, then season liberally all over. Put the shallots in your largest flameproof roasting tin and put the turkey on top, breast-side up. Roast for 1 hr, then give it a good baste, pour in the wine and nestle the cabbage wedges in the tin (or underneath the turkey if they won’t fit). Return to the oven for another 30 mins – covered with foil if the turkey is looking too brown. The juices should run clear when you pierce the thickest part of the thigh, or a thermometer should read 75C. If not done, carry on cooking for a further 5-10 mins. 3 Set aside the turkey on a board to rest for 1 hr, transferring the garlic and bay to the roasting tin for the gravy. If you want crispy skin, don’t cover the turkey. Wrap the cabbage wedges in two parcels of foil, with a spoonful of the turkey juices, season liberally and return to the bottom of the oven to carry on cooking while the turkey rests. 4 Spoon away most of the turkey fat, then put the tin on the hob over a medium heat. Mash the veg with the back of a wooden spoon to extract as much flavour as possible, then pour in the stock and reduce the gravy by half. If you want to thicken it, stir in the cornflour mixed with 1 tbsp water. Once happy with the consistency, strain and keep warm until ready to eat. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 813 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 16g • carbs 6g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 103g • salt 1.3g
pinch of sugar 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 Mix together the onion, vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt. Leave to pickle while you dice the beetroot and roughly chop the nuts. 2 Divide the watercress and smoked mackerel between six plates. Scatter over the beetroot and nuts, then top with a cluster of the pickled onions. Whisk the oil into the pickling vinegar, then drizzle the dressing around the outside of each plate. GOOD TO KNOW folate • omega-3 PER SERVING 318 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 4g • carbs 7g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 13g • salt 0.9g
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Smashed roasties, p49 46 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Stuffing sprouts, p49
Harissa & marmalade roasted roots, p49
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Smashed roasties Boiling the potatoes for longer, then smashing them, makes for more surface area, meaning extra crispy bits. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY
1.5kg loury potatoes (Maris Piper or King Edward), smaller potatoes kept whole, larger ones chopped in half 100ml sun lower oil
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the potatoes in a large pan filled with cold salted water. Bring to the boil and cook for 15 mins until a cutlery knife can be inserted into the centre of a potato with only a little resistance, then drain and steam-dry. 2 Arrange the potatoes in a large roasting tin, leaving enough space between each one so that they have room to spread once smashed. Using a fish slice, push down on each of the potatoes to break them up slightly. Don’t worry if some break up completely, it just means more crispy bits. Season well and drizzle over the oil. Roast for 1 hr, turning once, until golden and crispy. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • ibre • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 419 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 2g • carbs 63g • sugars 3g • ibre 7g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE Styling SARAH BIRKS
Stuffing sprouts Stuffing meets sprouts in a meaty mash-up that will win over the anti-sprouts contingent! Feel free to adjust the ingredients of your favourite stuffing recipe. SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins EASY
50g butter 1 onion, inely chopped 3 rashers smoked streaky bacon, chopped small bunch sage, inely chopped
3 good-quality pork sausages, skins removed 500g Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 150g cooked chestnuts, roughly chopped 3 tbsp breadcrumbs
1 Melt the butter over a low heat in a large, non-stick frying pan. Add the onion and cook for 10 mins until soft. Increase the heat to medium and stir in the bacon, sage and sausagemeat. Cook for 6-8 mins, breaking up the sausage with a wooden spoon, until starting to brown. 2 Tip in the sprouts and chestnuts, cover with a lid and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 mins until the sprouts are tender. Keep them warm over a low heat until you are ready to serve. Just before serving, take off the lid, season, stir in the breadcrumbs and fry on high for 2 mins to toast them and get some colour on the sprouts. GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 247 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 6g • carbs 19g • sugars 4g • ibre 5g • protein 8g • salt 0.8g
Harissa & marmalade roasted roots SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins COOK 55 mins EASY
500g unpeeled baby parsnips (or small parsnips), ends trimmed, any larger ones cut in half lengthways 500g unpeeled baby carrots, ends trimmed 2 tbsp sun lower oil 1 tbsp rose harissa 3 tbsp thin-cut marmalade
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the parsnips and carrots, cook for 2 mins, then drain and empty into a large roasting tin. Drizzle over the oil and season. 2 Mix together the harissa and marmalade, then spoon over the veg and toss to coat. Roast for 45-50 mins until sticky and caramelised. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • ibre • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 153 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 19g • sugars 13g • ibre 8g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 49
Selected stores. Subject to availability.
Black Forest Christmas fool If you want to make a nonalcoholic version, use a can of cherries in syrup instead. SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
500ml double cream tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp icing sugar 250g Christmas cake or rich fruitcake
390g jar of black cherries in kirsch, drained, reserving the liquid for drizzling 50g dark chocolate, chopped
Whisk the cream with the vanilla and icing sugar until it just holds its shape. Crumble the cake into six glasses, then top with a few cherries, a dollop of cream and a drizzle of the kirsch. Scatter over the chopped chocolate. PER SERVING 682 kcals • fat 53g • saturates 32g • carbs 45g • sugars 26g • ibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 51
Cured salmon Versatile cured and smoked salmon takes pride of place in these new recipes recipes DIANA HENRY photographs STUART OVENDEN
Laxpudding, p54 52 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Fresh & smoked salmon rillettes, p54 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 53
The first meal I eat when I get to Ireland is always smoked salmon. It’s a tradition that mum greets us with a platter of the stuff, buttered wheaten bread and wedges of lemon. My response to the peaty smell of smoked salmon is almost Pavlovian – my mouth waters and I slide into celebratory mode. Smoked salmon is all about celebrations. The really good stuff is expensive, and used to be kept for Christmas and any event where champagne corks were popped. Quality smoked salmon provides high-end, easy eating. It’s great in a warm potato salad (drizzle with a dill & buttermilk dressing) or with warm buckwheat blinis, soured cream and salmon roe. Scandinavian gravadlax –cured with salt and sugar rather than smoke – was one of the first ‘fancy’ dishes I ever made. There was very good salmon fishing where I grew up in Northern Ireland, so I had to think of different things to do with it. Reading about it in Jane Grigson’s Book of European Cookery, I fell for the idea of burying a side of salmon under a crusty avalanche of sea salt. The process of making it was so pleasurable (mix salt, sugar, pepper and pine-scented handfuls of dill) and the method so simple (apply the cure, wrap and weight the fish), that I’ve made it regularly ever since. Like smoked salmon, it’s a great dish to have in the fridge over Christmas. If I’m going to serve gravadlax plain, I make my own (find a recipe at bbcgoodfood.com or turn to p122 for a kit to give friends). For dishes such as the laxpudding, I’m happy to use bought stuff. When it comes to smoked salmon, I usually buy Irish (but only out of loyalty). Both smoked salmon and gravadlax provide easy luxury, but you need to buy the best you can afford. 54 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Not, as it sounds, a pudding made with gravadlax, but a potato gratin with dill and gravadlax layered and baked. This very easy recipe is a good post-Christmas dish. You could also try adding some sliced beetroot and of course you could make this with smoked salmon if that’s what you have. SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 20 mins EASY
425ml double cream 150ml soured cream 100ml full-fat milk 1.2kg potatoes (I like Maris Piper), peeled and inely sliced butter, for greasing 400g gravadlax 15g bunch dill, chopped (leaves only) green salad with a sharp dressing, to serve
Fresh & smoked salmon rillettes A simple starter, fresh and rich, that makes a bit more of a pack of smoked salmon, and of course you could make this with smoked salmon if that’s what you have. SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
150ml vermouth 1 /2 onion, sliced 2 tbsp lemon juice, plus a squeeze small bunch parsley, stalks only (use the leaves below) 8 black peppercorns 280g salmon illet 125g smoked salmon, cut into small shreds 30g butter, melted 1 tbsp chopped chervil (or chives if you can’t get chervil) rye bread and chicory leaves, to serve (optional) For the caper crème fraîche 200g crème fraîche 2 tbsp inely chopped parsley and chives 2 tbsp capers, rinsed of salt or brine 1 small shallot, inely chopped
1 Heat oven to 180C/160 fan/gas 4. In a large saucepan, mix together the creams and the milk, and bring to just under the boil. Add the potatoes and cook gently for 5 mins, gently turning the potatoes over from time to time. 2 Season well and spoon one-third of the potatoes into a greased deep dish. Put half the gravadlax and dill on top, then add another one-third of the potatoes, then the rest of the gravadlax and dill. Finish with a final layer of potatoes. 3 Bake for 1 hr 10 mins or until the vegetables are completely tender. You may need to cover the top with foil after 1 hr to stop it becoming too dark. Serve with a green salad with a sharp dressing (the laxpudding will benefit from something clean to contrast with the richness of this dish). GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • gluten free PER SERVING 520 kcals • fat 37g • saturates 21g • carbs 28g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 1.1g
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil lemon juice, to taste
1 Put the vermouth, onion, lemon juice, parsley stalks and peppercorns in a saucepan with 150ml water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 10 mins. Turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer, add the salmon fillet and poach for 4 mins. Let the salmon sit and cool in the liquid. 2 Lift the salmon out of its poaching liquid, remove the skin and flake the flesh roughly. Mix the flesh with the smoked salmon, a good squeeze of lemon, the butter, chervil and some pepper. Tip into a bowl, cover and put in the fridge (be sure to bring it back to room temperature to serve). 3 Mix the crème fraîche with the herbs, capers, shallot, oil and lemon juice to taste. Serve the rillettes with leaves of chicory – its bitterness is very good against the richness of the salmon – the caper crème fraîche and some rye bread, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • gluten free PER SERVING 339 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 13g • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 17g • salt 0.8g
Food styling SAL HENLEY Styling JENNIFER KAY
Laxpudding Good Food contributing editor Diana Henry is an award-winning food writer. Her tenth book, Simple (£25, Mitchell Beazley), is out now. Each month she creates exclusive recipes using seasonal ingredients. @ DianaHenryFood
Gravadlax with celeriac & fennel salad SERVES 8 PREP 40 mins NO COOK
350 400g gravadlax or smoked salmon For the dressing 1 tsp wholegrain mustard 1 tsp honey 2 garlic cloves, crushed 5 tsp cider vinegar 7 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (a fruity one, not a bitter Tuscan one) 2 tbsp single cream For the salad juice 1 lemon (you may not need it all) 300g celeriac 1 large fennel bulb 1 /4 red onion 1 small red apple 1 small green apple 15g bunch dill, leaves only, roughly chopped
1 Make the dressing first. Put the mustard, honey, garlic, vinegar and some seasoning in a cup, and whisk in the oil in a steady stream. Stir in the cream, then check the seasoning – it should be sweet-sour. 2 Put some of the lemon juice in a mixing bowl. Peel the celeriac and cut the flesh into matchsticks, tossing these in the lemon juice as you go to stop the flesh discolouring. 3 Quarter the fennel and remove any coarse outer leaves. Trim the tips, reserving any tufty fronds. Cut out the core from each piece. Using
a very sharp knife or a mandolin, slice the fennel lengthways – the slices should be almost transparent. Toss with the celeriac and add some more lemon juice. 4 Cut the onion as finely as possible (it’s best to do this on a mandolin too). Halve the apples, core and cut into matchsticks (there’s no need to peel them). Add to the bowl with the onions, and add a little more lemon
juice (to keep the apple from turning brown). Chop any fennel fronds and add along with the dill. Toss with the dressing. 5 Divide the salad between eight plates with some gravadlax alongside, or serve the gravadlax and offer the salad in a large bowl. GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 227 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 3g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • ibre 3g • protein 14g • salt 1.2g
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 55
Tom’s festive kitchen
Celebrate in style with these modern Christmas recipes from the BBC chef photographs PETER CASSIDY
Good Food contributing editor Tom Kerridge is chef-owner of The Hand & Flowers and The Coach pubs – both in Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Every month he creates exclusive new seasonal recipes for us. Tom will be presenting a new BBC show, Fast Food Britain, next month. @ChefTomKerridge
Crab fritters with cheat’s chilli & crab mayonnaise p61 56 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Truffled Jerusalem artichoke soup, p61 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 57
Slow-cooked goose with cranberry salsa The salsa’s fruity, delicate heat is a good contrast to the richness of the goose, and makes a fresh alternative to the traditional cranberry sauce. SERVES 6 8 PREP 35 mins plus resting COOK 4 hrs MORE EFFORT
1 whole goose (about 6kg), giblets removed, trimmed of excess fat For the spice mix 8 whole cloves 3 star anise 2 chicken stock cubes 2 oranges, zested 2 tsp ground cinnamon For the salsa 2 onions, inely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 200g cranberries, defrosted if frozen 1 orange, zested and juiced 2 limes, zested 1 tbsp cranberry sauce 2 green chillies, inely chopped 1 tsp picked thyme leaves
1 Take the goose out of the fridge 1 hr before cooking. Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. In a frying pan, toast the whole spices over a medium heat until aromatic. Use a pestle and mortar (or spice grinder) to grind to a fine powder. Mix in the crumbled stock cubes, orange zest, 1 tsp salt and cinnamon. 2 Lay the goose in a high-sided roasting tin, score the skin all over with a sharp knife and rub in the spice mix, making sure you press into all the cut marks. Loosely cover the tin with foil and roast for 2 hrs, then remove the foil and roast for a further 2 hrs. Once cooked, rest for at least 20 mins, loosely covered with foil. Reserving the fat to roast your cabbage (see right). 3 While the goose cooks, make the salsa. Fry the onions in the oil over a medium heat for 10-15 mins until golden brown. Add the cranberries, cook for a few more mins, then remove from the heat. Mix in the remaining salsa ingredients and keep in a warm place to allow the flavours to infuse. Carve the goose and serve with the salsa. GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING (8) 638 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 13g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • ibre 2g • protein 54g • salt 1.7g
Buttered Jerusalem artichokes SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
Peel and finely slice 1kg Jerusalem artichokes, adding to a bowl of water and lemon juice (see Test Kitchen, p144). Heat 75g butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat and, once foaming, add the artichokes, 1 crushed garlic clove and 3 thyme sprigs. Cook for 20 mins or so, adding another 75g cubed butter gradually, cube by cube, basting frequently so that the artichokes are always covered in foaming butter, until they’re a rich roasted colour. Just before serving, toss with the juice 1 lemon and season to taste. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 282 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 13g • carbs 17g • sugars 3g • ibre 8g • protein 3g • salt 0.5g
Stir-fried red cabbage with mulled wine dressing SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
1 small red cabbage, cut into wedges and core removed 4 tbsp goose fat (or use rapeseed oil to make it vegetarian) 2 tbsp chopped ginger For the dressing 250ml red wine 50ml red wine vinegar tsp ground cloves 1 cinnamon stick 1 orange, zested and juiced 25ml crème de cassis
1 For the dressing, put the wine, vinegar, cloves and cinnamon in a saucepan. Cook for 15-20 mins until the liquid has reduced by 3/4 (to about 75ml). Add the orange zest and juice to the pan with the crème de cassis, and set aside to keep warm. 2 Next, shred the cabbage as finely as possible. Heat a wok until very hot, then add the goose fat and fry the cabbage and ginger for 10 mins. Toss through the dressing and cook for 5 mins more until the cabbage is softened but retains a good bite, serving sprinkled with sea salt. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 170 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 6g • sugars 5g • ibre 3g • protein 1g • salt none
58 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 59
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Truffled Jerusalem artichoke soup
Crab fritters with cheat’s chilli & crab mayonnaise
Velvety smooth and supremely comforting, this winter soup makes the most of this underrated root, and celebrates any glorious leftover goose, duck or similar game bird.
The rich spiced mayo perfectly complements these moreish morsels of crab and nutty Gruyère. Remember to look thoroughly through the white crab meat to ensure there are no pieces of shell.
SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 35 mins EASY G
MAKES about 30 fritters PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 40 mins MORE EFFORT
50g butter 2 onions, sliced 1kg Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced 1 litre chicken stock 100ml double cream a few drops of truffle oil, to taste, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp olive oil 80g leftover goose, shredded (optional)
1 Heat the butter in a large saucepan. Fry the onions and artichokes for 10 mins or until the onions are cooked and the artichokes have softened. Add the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cooking for 15-20 mins until the artichokes are very tender. 2 Tip everything into a food processor with the cream and purée until smooth. Season with the truffle oil and some salt. Transfer to a saucepan to keep warm (or reheat later when needed). 3 Heat the olive oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shredded goose and slowly fry until crispy and golden. 4 Ladle the soup into bowls and top with a drizzle more truffle oil and the crispy goose, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 556 kcals • fat 32g • saturates 17g • carbs 45g • sugars 28g • ibre 7g • protein 19g • salt 0.9g
150g butter 225g plain lour, sifted 4 large eggs 100g Gruyère, grated 2 tbsp snipped chives 200g picked white crabmeat vegetable oil, for frying sea salt lakes and cayenne pepper, to serve For the mayonnaise 200g good-quality mayonnaise 2 tbsp brown crabmeat 1 tbsp sriracha or chilli sauce 1 tbsp lemon juice
1 Put the butter in a large saucepan with 225ml water, heating slowly so that the butter melts but the water doesn’t evaporate. Remove from the heat and quickly add the flour. Mix until fully incorporated and comes away from the pan, then leave to cool to room temperature. Use a wooden spoon to beat in the eggs, one at a time, until smooth, glossy and the mix drips off the spoon after 3 secs. Beat in the cheese until combined, before folding in the chives, crab and some seasoning. 2 Meanwhile, mix the mayonnaise ingredients together, season and set aside. Can be made a day ahead. 3 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or large heavy-based saucepan (no more than half full) to 160C or until a piece of bread browns in 40 secs. Using a dessertspoon, scoop spoonfuls of the batter and carefully drop them straight into the hot oil (you will need to cook them in batches so that you don’t overcrowd the pan). Fry each batch for 3-4 mins until golden brown, then drain on kitchen paper. Season with sea salt flakes and cayenne pepper. Serve hot with the mayonnaise. PER FRITTER 167 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 4g • carbs 6g • sugars none • ibre none • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
At their best now Fruit & veg • Apples • Brussels sprouts and tops • Cabbages (red, white and Savoy) • Carrots • Celeriac • Celery • Chestnuts • Jerusalem artichokes
• Kale • Leeks • Parsnips • Pears • Swedes • Turnips • Walnuts Meat & game • Goose • Partridge • Pheasant • Turkey • Wild duck
Fish & seafood • Clams • Cockles • Crab • Lobster • Mackerel • Mussels • North Atlantic prawns • Oysters • Pollock • Scallops • Whiting • Wild sea bass
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 61
Mince tart with crumble topping The pastry for this tart is extremely short, so it doesn’t need a long chilling time – and be sure to handle it gently when you roll it. SERVES 8 PREP 35 mins plus 1 hr resting COOK 1 hr MORE EFFORT G
For the pastry 200g butter, softened 100g golden caster sugar 2 egg yolks 350g plain lour, sifted For the illing 100g butter 100g golden caster sugar 1 orange, zested 2 Bramley apples, peeled, cored and diced 1 cinnamon stick 150g raisins 150g sultanas 40g dried cranberries 70g cut mixed peel 70ml brandy 80g shredded beef or vegetable suet For the crumble 100g plain lour 30g golden caster sugar 50g butter, softened 50g quick frosted walnuts, roughly chopped (see recipe, right) To serve custard or clotted cream
1 First, make the pastry. Using a tabletop mixer or an electric hand whisk, cream together the butter and sugar with a pinch of salt until soft and fluffy. Add the yolks, then fold in the flour until the pastry just comes together, being careful not to overwork. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for 1 hr. 2 Meanwhile, make the filling. Cook the butter, sugar, orange zest, apple and cinnamon over a medium heat for 15 mins or until you have a thick purée. Add the dried fruit and mixed peel for the final 1-2 mins, then remove from the heat. Once cool, remove the cinnamon stick, and stir in the brandy and suet. 3 On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry to the thickness of a £1 coin, then use to line a 25cm loosebottomed tart case. Return to the fridge for 30 mins until well chilled. 4 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Prick the base of the tart case with a fork, line with baking parchment and fill with baking beans or uncooked rice. Bake for 12 mins, then remove the baking beans and parchment, and cook for 3 mins more. 5 Meanwhile, put the flour, sugar and butter for the crumble in a bowl. Rub together with your fingertips until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then mix in the frosted walnuts.
6 Spoon the mincemeat filling into the pastry case and cover with the crumble. Return to the oven for 30 mins until bubbling at the edges and the topping is golden and gooey. Serve warm or cool with custard or clotted cream. GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 965 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 29g • carbs 115g • sugars 68g • ibre 5g • protein 8g • salt 0.9g
Quick frosted walnuts SERVES 6 8 PREP 2 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V
Put 250g granulated sugar and 50ml water in a pan and set over a medium heat. Cook until the sugar dissolves and is just beginning to colour. Add 200g toasted walnuts and stir until the sugar crystallises, covering the nuts. Pour onto a tray and leave to cool before breaking up to serve. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING (8) 302 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 2g • carbs 32g • sugars 32g • ibre 1g • protein 4g • salt none
Tom will be cooking at the BBC Good Food Shows at Harrogate HIC (5 7 May) and Birmingham NEC (15 18 June). Visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com to book tickets. Readers get a discount – ind out more on p86.
£12.99 plus p&p (was £29.99)
Large enough for your Christmas turkey, as well as Sunday roasts with the family, this superb roasting tray is just what you need to make festive cooking easy. The scratch-resistant coated interior is 100% non-stick, so there’s no need to use oil, fat or butter. Durable and long-lasting, the roasting tray measures L40 x W28 x H7cm.
Exclusive price for BBC Good Food readers: only £12.99 (was £29.99), plus £4.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 66050 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/66050
62 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Food styling EMILY KYDD Styling LUIS PERAL
Roast like a pro
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 63
NEW! BBC Good Food Enjoy exclusive offers on specially selected cases, plus free delivery mpetition Co
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To order, visit bbcgoodfood.com/gftreat or call 03300 242 855 quoting code RNR1A BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaite's. Terms and conditions Introductory offer – new customers (18 years or over) only. One case per household. No further discounts applicable. Free delivery (usually £7.99). Offer ends 28/2/2017. Delivery within three working days (except Northern Ireland and the Scottish Highlands). YOUR FUTURE CASES: Every four, eight or 12 weeks, you will be noti ied of the next Wine Plan selection, which you will automatically receive unless you request otherwise. You will be charged the appropriate sum for each delivery. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites. Visit bbcgoodfood.com/gftreat for full terms and conditions. Laithwaite’s Wine is part of Direct Wines Ltd. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire RG7 4SW.
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 65
Easiest-ever meals Quick, easy and affordable – 10 brand-new recipes for this busy time of year recipes CHELSIE COLLINS photographs MIKE ENGLISH
Oregano halloumi with orzo salad Any leftovers make a great taketo-work lunch for the next day. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 8 mins EASY V
350g orzo 15g pack oregano, leaves picked, larger ones roughly chopped 3 tbsp olive oil 250g halloumi, sliced 200g plum cherry tomatoes, halved handful pitted black olives, chopped 140g tub fresh pesto
1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the orzo following pack instructions. Meanwhile, mix the chopped oregano in a small bowl with the oil and brush some over the halloumi. Heat a large, non-stick frying pan and cook the halloumi for a few mins each side until golden and soft. 2 Drain the cooked orzo and mix with the tomatoes, olives and pesto. Season to taste. Spoon onto a serving plate and top with the halloumi. Drizzle over any remaining oregano oil and scatter over the leaves. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER SERVING 588 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 14g • carbs 28g • sugars 4g • ibre 4g • protein 28g • salt 2.7g
66 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Meat-free meal £1.83 per serving
eat well every day
Cauli-kale sausage bake This needs hardly any prep – plus it’s pure comfort food, with a good helping of veg. SERVES 4 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 40 mins EASY G
680g cauli lower lorets 180g sliced kale 1 tbsp olive oil 400g sausages, meat squeezed out 700g cheese sauce (shop-bought is ine, or visit bbcgoodfood.com for a recipe) 100g cheddar, grated mixed leaves, to serve (optional)
1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook the cauliflower for 6 mins, adding the kale for the final min. Drain well. 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan and add the sausagemeat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon. Brown all over for 4-5 mins. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and put the cauliflower and kale in a large baking dish. Pour over the cheese sauce, season and mix to coat well. Scatter over the sausagemeat and the cheddar. Bake for 30 mins until the top is golden and bubbling. Serve with mixed leaves, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 544 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 17g • carbs 18g • sugars 5g • ibre 6g • protein 23g • salt 3.5g
Crowd-pleaser £1.65 per serving
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 67
Packed with punchy flavours £2.25 per serving
Quick salmon, preserved lemon & olive pilaf A wholesome brown rice pilaf inspired by Middle Eastern flavours. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus steaming COOK 30 mins EASY
Recipe for one £2.99 per serving
Turkey schnitzel with rocket & pomegranate salad Using lean turkey and fragrant almonds in the crust makes this great-tasting, speedy schnitzel that little bit more virtuous. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY
1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tbsp plain lour 2 tbsp breadcrumbs 2 tbsp laked almonds, inely chopped 1 turkey escalope (about 70 80g) 1 tbsp olive oil 50g rocket 15g parmesan shavings 1 tbsp pomegranate seeds 1 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
240g brown rice 500ml vegetable stock 4 boneless and skinless salmon illets 1 tsp each ground cinnamon, ground cumin and turmeric 1 preserved lemon from a jar, skin inely chopped, lesh and seeds discarded 130g pitted green olives, sliced small pack parsley, roughly chopped
1 Put the egg in a bowl and the flour on a plate with a little seasoning. Mix the breadcrumbs and almonds on another plate. Coat the escalope in the flour, tapping off any excess, then dip in the egg, then roll in the breadcrumb mix, making sure it’s completely coated. 2 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat and lay the escalope in the pan. Cook for 1-2 mins, then turn and cook for a further 1-2 mins until the coating is golden and the turkey is cooked. 3 Serve on a bed of rocket, with the parmesan and pomegranate seeds scattered on top. Drizzle over the balsamic vinegar before serving.
1 Put the rice in a saucepan, cover with the vegetable stock and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 15 mins. Turn off the heat and leave the rice to sit for 15 mins without removing the lid. 2 Meanwhile, put the salmon fillets on a microwaveable plate, season well and cover with cling film. Cook in the microwave on high for 4 mins until just cooked. When the rice is ready, stir through the spices, preserved lemon, olives, parsley and some seasoning. Flake the salmon and lightly stir through the rice, trying not to break up the fish too much, then serve.
GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 714 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 7g • carbs 45g • sugars 7g • ibre 2g • protein 46g • salt 0.9g
GOOD TO KNOW omega-3 PER SERVING 605 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 5g • carbs 45g • sugars 2g • ibre 5g • protein 37g • salt 1.7g
68 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
eat well every day
Chipotle chicken wraps Smoky chicken wraps, packed with veg, are great for a lazy night in. To make a veggie version, simply replace the chicken with roasted sweet potato. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
1 tbsp vegetable oil 1 onion, inely sliced 1 garlic clove 2 chicken breasts, sliced into strips 2 tbsp chipotle paste 400g can chopped tomatoes 400g can black beans, drained 4 large corn or lour tortilla wraps 1 /2 avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced 1 /2 Baby Gem lettuce, shredded 1 lime, halved
1 Heat the oil in a frying pan over a low-medium heat. Toss in the onion and cook for 10 mins until softened. Crush in the garlic and stir for 1 min before adding the chicken. Turn up the heat and brown the chicken all over. Spoon over the chipotle and stir to coat for 1 min. Pour in the tomatoes and bring to the boil. Season well and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. 2 Cook for 5-6 mins or until the chicken is cooked through and any excess liquid has evaporated. Stir the beans through until warmed, then remove from the heat. Warm the wraps following pack instructions. 3 Divide the mix between the wraps, top with the avocado and shredded lettuce, and squeeze over the lime. Roll up and cut in half before serving. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • low cal • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 425 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 3g • carbs 49g • sugars 9g • ibre 9g • protein 28g • salt 1.2g
3 of your 5-a-day £2.15 per serving
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 69
Charred Brussels, beetroot & bulghar salad Love your leftovers – use a surplus of festive Brussels and blue cheese in this throw-together seasonal salad. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V
150g bulghar wheat, rinsed 200g leftover cooked Brussels sprouts, halved 100g cooked beetroot, cut into wedges 1 small red onion, inely sliced handful cherry tomatoes, halved small pack parsley, roughly chopped For the dressing 75ml buttermilk 2 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 60g blue cheese, crumbled
1 Put the bulghar in a small saucepan and cover with 300ml water. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer, cover and cook for 5 mins or until tender. Drain. 2 Meanwhile, heat a griddle pan over a high heat until very hot. Cook the sprouts until char lines appear, then set aside. 3 Make the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl with 1 tbsp water and a little seasoning. 4 In a large bowl, combine the bulghar with the Brussels, beetroot, onion, tomatoes, parsley and some seasoning. Divide between bowls and drizzle with the dressing, serving extra on the side.
Vegan supper £1.32 per serving
Roasted aubergine & tomato curry Slightly sweet with added richness from the coconut milk, this simple vegan curry is a winner. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 45 mins EASY V G
GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 732 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 9g • carbs 69g • sugars 13g • ibre 12g • protein 22g • salt 0.9g
600g baby aubergines, sliced into rounds 3 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, inely sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander 400ml can chopped tomatoes 400ml can coconut milk pinch of sugar (optional) small pack coriander, roughly chopped rice or chapatis, to serve
Ready in 20 mins £1.90 per serving
£27.99 plus p&p
This large, non-stick pan from Viners is ideal for (was £69.99) quick midweek meals and family suppers. Made from induction-compatible stainless steel, with a ceramic, non-stick interior that won’t blister or peel, this versatile pan is suitable for frying on the hob and roasting in the oven. Measuring 30cm, it has a capacity of 3.96 litres, is dishwasher-safe and comes with a ive-year guarantee. Exclusive price for BBC Good Food readers: only £27.99 (was £69.99), plus £4.95 p&p. To order, call 0844 493 5654 quoting 66728 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/66728.
70 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Toss the aubergines in a roasting tin with 2 tbsp olive oil, season well and spread out. Roast for 20 mins or until dark golden and soft. 2 Heat the remaining oil in an ovenproof pan or flameproof casserole dish and cook the onions over a medium heat for 5-6 mins until softening. Stir in the garlic and spices, for a few mins until the spices release their aromas. 3 Tip in the tomatoes, coconut milk and roasted aubergines, and bring to a gentle simmer. Simmer for 20-25 mins, removing the lid for the final 5 mins to thicken the sauce. Add a little seasoning if you like, and a pinch of sugar if it needs it. Stir through most of the coriander. Serve over rice or with chapatis, scattering with the remaining coriander. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 331 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 16g • carbs 15g • sugars 12g • ibre 7g • protein 5g • salt none
eat well every day
Beef & swede casserole A comforting, hearty stew, packed with chunky meat and veg. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr 25 mins EASY G
2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 onions, sliced celery stick, sliced 500g diced braising beef 200ml red wine (optional) 700ml beef (or chicken) stock 500g swede, peeled and cut into chunky dice 300g loury potatoes (such as Maris Piper), diced 3 thyme sprigs 1 bay leaf green veg, to serve (optional)
1 Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole dish over a medium-high heat. Fry the onions and celery for a few mins until turning brown. Add the beef and brown all over for 3-4 mins. Pour in the wine, if using, and let it reduce by half. Add the stock and toss in the swede, potatoes, thyme and bay leaf. Season and bring to the boil. 2 Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and leave for 1 hr. If you want to reduce the liquid a little, remove the lid, turn up the heat and cook for a further 10-15 mins or until the sauce has thickened. 3 Season to taste and remove the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Serve with some green veg, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • 1 of 5-a-day • good for you PER SERVING 352 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 4g • carbs 20g • sugars 7g • ibre 5g • protein 30g • salt 0.6g
Gluten and dairy free £1.95 per serving
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 71
Chicken & mushroom risotto Risotto is the ultimate one-pot supper – the perfect vehicle for letting simple, comforting ingredients shine. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins EASY
60g butter 1 large onion, inely chopped 2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked 250g pack chestnut mushrooms, sliced 300g risotto rice 1.5 litres hot chicken stock 200g cooked chicken, chopped into chunks 50g grated parmesan, plus extra to serve (optional) small pack parsley, inely chopped
1 Heat the butter in a large pan over a gentle heat and add the onion. Cook for 10 mins until softened, then stir in the thyme leaves and mushrooms. Cook for 5 mins, sprinkle in the rice and stir to coat in the mixture. 2 Ladle in a quarter of the stock and continue cooking, stirring occasionally and topping up with more stock as it absorbs (you may not need all the stock). 3 When most of the stock has been absorbed and the rice is nearly cooked, add the chicken and stir to warm through. Season well and stir in the parmesan and parsley. Serve scattered with extra parmesan, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 615 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 12g • carbs 67g • sugars 5g • ibre 5g • protein 37g • salt 1.5g
Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS
£1.34 per serving
Apple crumble sundae Ready in no time, this simple sundae will satisfy any midweek sweet cravings. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
2 tbsp butter 4 Granny Smith apples, cored and diced 1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 tbsp light brown sugar 8 scoops vanilla ice cream 2 ginger nut biscuits, crushed
1 In a small saucepan, melt the butter over a gentle heat and add the apples, cinnamon and sugar. Cook for 10 mins or until the apples have softened but still hold their shape. 2 Split the mixture between four sundae glasses or bowls. Sit 2 scoops of ice cream on top of each, followed by the crushed biscuits. Serve while the apple mix is still warm. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 377 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 11g • carbs 49g • sugars 47g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g
Easy midweek dessert 62p per serving
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eat well every day
Breakfast pancakes Whether you have them luffy or folded, sweet or savoury, pancakes are a simple treat over the holidays recipes CHELSIE COLLINS photographs MIKE ENGLISH
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 75
eat well every day
Smoked ham & cheese pancakes
MAKES 10 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 20 mins EASY V
MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 8 mins EASY
150g self-raising lour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp golden caster sugar 1 egg, beaten 1 /2 tbsp maple syrup, plus extra to serve 200ml full-fat or semiskimmed milk vegetable oil, for frying 100g pitted dates, chopped, to serve 100ml crème fraîche, to serve
100g plain lour 1 egg, beaten 200ml full-fat or semiskimmed milk 1 /2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for frying 30g butter 80g smoked ham, diced 80g Gruyère, grated small handful chives, snipped
1 Put the flour, baking powder, ginger, cinnamon and sugar in a large bowl with a pinch of salt. Combine the egg, maple syrup and milk in a jug. Gradually add to the dry ingredients, whisking until a smooth, silky batter forms.
2 Heat a drizzle of oil in a large, non-stick pan over a medium heat and ladle 2-3 small rounds into the pan. Cook for 1-2 mins until bubbles start to appear on the surface, then flip over and cook for a further 1 min until fluffy. Do this in batches until you have 10 pancakes. 3 Serve in a stack, with extra maple syrup, a blob of crème fraîche and dates scattered over. PER PANCAKE 111 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 14g • sugars 2g • ibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.3g
1 Put the flour and 1/2 tsp salt in a bowl. Combine the eggs with the milk and oil, then gradually pour into the dry ingredients, whisking constantly until it’s a smooth batter. Transfer to a large jug. 2 Swirl a little oil around a large, non-stick pan over a gentle heat. Pour a quarter of
the batter into the pan, tilting to coat the entire base. Cook for 1 min, flip over and cook for a further 30 secs. On one half of the pancake, add 1/4 of the butter and sprinkle over 1/4 of the ham and cheese. Grind over some black pepper and fold the pancake over the fillings. Fold in half again and transfer to a plate to serve. Repeat until you have four pancakes. Serve scattered with the chives. GOOD TO KNOW calcium PER PANCAKE 327 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 10g • carbs 23g • sugars 2g • ibre 1g • protein 15g • salt 1.6g
For more pancake recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
Spinach protein pancakes
MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V
1 Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Combine the wet ingredients in a jug and gradually pour into the dry ingredients, whisking until a smooth batter forms. 2 Put 2 tbsp of the batter in a small bowl and mix in a few drops of red food colouring. Transfer to a squeezy bottle.
3 Put 1/3 of the remaining batter into the other squeezy bottle, and the remaining 2/3 into a jug. 4 Gently heat a drizzle of oil in a non-stick pan. Squeeze some batter into an outline of Rudolph, drawing two holes for eyes. Fill the rest with batter from the jug. Make a nose using the coloured batter. Cook for 1-2 mins, flip and cook for 1 min more. Repeat to make four pancakes. Serve with icing sugar and maple syrup. PER PANCAKE 218 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 34g • sugars 6g • ibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.6g
76 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
284ml pot buttermilk 1 egg, beaten, plus 2 poached eggs per person, to serve (optional) 200g spinach 175g buckwheat lour 1 tsp gluten-free baking powder pinch of paprika rapeseed oil, for frying
1 Boil the kettle, and put the buttermilk and beaten egg in a food processor. Put the spinach in a colander and pour over boiling water to wilt. Squeeze out any excess water, add to the processor and blitz to a smooth purée. 2 Put all the dry ingredients, plus 1 tsp salt, in a bowl and gradually mix in the purée. If a little thick, add 1 tbsp water to loosen to a batter consistency.
3 Heat a drizzle of oil in a large, non-stick pan over a medium heat and spoon in two or three ladlefuls of batter. Cook for 1-2 mins or until bubbles appear, then flip over for 1 min more or until cooked. Repeat until you have 12 pancakes. Serve topped with poached eggs, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW folate • gluten free PER PANCAKE 241 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 3g • carbs 10g • sugars 1g • ibre 2g • protein 17g • salt 0.9g
Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS
150g self-raising lour 1 /2 tsp baking powder 1 /2 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 egg, beaten 1 /2 tbsp maple syrup, plus extra to serve 150ml full-fat or semiskimmed milk vegetable oil, for frying a few drops red food colouring icing sugar, for dusting You will need 2 squeezy bottles
MAKES 12 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
Gobble & squeak The Christmas season can be excessive, so you might find yourself with loads of food in the house this month and no idea what to do with it. This easy turkey recipe uses up some of that leftover meat and any veg kicking around. It’s lean too, meaning you can get an advance start on the New Year, new you! SERVES 1 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY
Joe Wicks The hugely popular nutritional coach and author shares his fast and fabulous recipe for using up your Christmas leftovers recipe photograph MAJA SMEND
Good Food contributing editor Joe Wicks is a former personal trainer. Now an Instagram phenomenon with 1.5 million followers, his #Leanin15 videos focus on quick, easy cooking. His 90 Day SSS (Shift, Shape and Sustain) Plan has inspired men and women nationwide to sign up to his programme of healthy recipes and workouts. thebodycoach.co.uk @thebodycoach Joe’s book Lean in 15: The Sustain Plan (£16.99, Bluebird) is out now. His DVD, The Body Coach: Lean in 15, is out on 26 December
78 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
1 Peel the potato and parsnip, grab a bowl and grate them both into it. Grate or finely slice the sprouts and chuck them into the bowl too. Put the veg in a sieve and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Return the mixture to the bowl and crack in the egg. Mix and season, then add your rosemary and garlic. 2 Now it’s time to get your hands messy. Shape the mixture into three rösti patties, equal in thickness. Slice the leftover turkey breast. Put it in a pan with the gravy on a low heat and simmer until the turkey is warm. Heat the coconut oil in a separate frying pan. Cook the röstis for 3 mins each side until golden brown, then put them on a plate, layer with the sliced turkey and add a dollop of cranberry sauce on top. Voilà – a lovely, lean Christmas leftover meal! GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 580 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 13g • carbs 44g • sugars 8g • ibre 10g • protein 44g • salt 0.5g
Next month Breakfast, lunch and dinner from Joe
Portrait NICKY JOHNSTON Food styling EMILY KYDD Styling LYDIA BRUN
1 medium parsnip 1 medium potato handful Brussels sprouts 1 egg 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked and chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 100g cooked turkey 2 tbsp leftover gravy 1 tbsp coconut oil cranberry sauce, to serve
eat well every day
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 79
Emma’s Big Apple
That’s all, folks! In her final column of the year, Emma Freud recalls the delights – and duds – of the Manhattan food scene
o my New York food adventure is over. My family spent a year living in Manhattan, eating our way around the city and never going to the same restaurant twice because we had 12 months and there were 24,000 to get through (NB: we may have missed out a few). There are so many foods I will miss, but so many UK tastes I’m excited to meet again. I’ve hugely enjoyed the ‘single food’ restaurants here. I felt proud to have consumed the menu at Macbar, which serves 12 types of macaroni cheese. And I appreciated, though then regretted, each of the 24 flavours of rice pudding at Rice To Riches’. Strangely, I’m unbothered about kissing goodbye to s’mores fries (chips covered in melted marshmallow and chocolate), or chicken fingers with caramel sauce, not to mention deep-fried pickles, kale & dandelion juice with activated charcoal, vegan sushi and foie gras ice cream. There is still much here that I don’t understand: regular bread is baked with sugar, the milk is saccharine, the butter is sweet, the cheese contains sugar. The only thing that doesn’t seem to contain sugar, is sugar – there’s only one brand and it’s somehow powdery and
crispy at the same time. They certainly like to use it though: a caramel pecan cinnamon bun from Cinnabon contains nearly 20 teaspoons of sugar – and over 1,000 calories. New York supermarkets remain baffling to me: 20 types of tortilla chip, but no baked beans. Threelitre cartons of orange juice, 25 types of tea even though they don’t know how to make it properly (seriously, not one good cup all year) – yet no pickle, no back bacon, no proper cheese, crumpets, Ribena, Jaffa cakes, Marmite, Quavers or Percy Pigs anywhere. I’ll be bringing back to the UK my newfound love for the skillet. Some restaurants give you a warm one with cornbread baked in it instead of a bread roll when you sit down. I’ll miss cinemas that bring you snacks while you’re watching the movie, and comedy shows where you sit at tables and get served jugs of Margaritas during the first half, and nachos, fries and brownies in the second half when you’ve drunk so much that you’ve stopped caring about late-night carbs. I’ve longed for proper sausages - the ‘breakfast sausage’ here is limp, lame, sometimes skinless and often contains sugar and cloves. I’ve yearned for really rare burgers (many restaurants only offer medium or well done, for health reasons). And hello, overripe unpasteurised cheese – too dangerous for an American palate, fine for this old English one. I have ached for the random dishes that haven’t yet reached America – sausage rolls, pork pies, Scotch eggs, beef Wellington, Cornish pasties, Yorkshire pudding, shepherd’s pie, Eton mess and a proper Indian curry. Over the last year on your behalf I’ve consumed grasshoppers (revolting), black ant guacamole (crunchy) and a braised lamb’s testicle (silence). I’ve turned my kitchen into a pop-up restaurant, eaten my way around the mind-blowingly lovely sweet snacks of Greenwich Village, made (and burnt) a brisket, deep-fried a Christmas turkey, braved the Thanksgiving sweet potatoes covered in marshmallow, mastered cherry pie, made dinner over a fire at a dude ranch and investigated every possibility of cooking with alcohol. It’s been the best American job imaginable – and I’m now refusing to leave this magazine. Next month, I’ll start exploring the British food scene (after I’ve had a decent cup of tea).
Hosting a New-York-style brunch
A low-calorie American strawberry shake
Deep-frying the turkey on Thanksgiving
Grasshopper tacos – more miss than hit
80 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Good Food contributing editor Emma Freud is a journalist and broadcaster, and director of Red Nose Day, which is on BBC One on 24 March 2017. @emmafreud
Recipe photograph TOM REGESTER | Food styling KATY GILHOOLY Styling LUIS PERAL
‘New York supermarkets remain baffling to me: 20 types of tortilla chip, but no baked beans’
I asked my children which American recipes they most wanted me to reproduce back in the UK – and the result was unanimously these two.
Buffalo chicken SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus at least 2 hrs brining COOK 1 hr 5 mins MORE EFFORT
For the brine – to make them juicy 1.5kg chicken thighs and drumsticks 180g sea salt lakes 90g soft dark brown sugar 2 tbsp chilli lakes For the spice mix – to make them tasty 2 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 1 tbsp ground cumin 1 tbsp sea salt lakes 1 tbsp dark brown sugar For the sauce – to add some heat 75g butter 125ml hot chilli sauce 1 tbsp maple syrup
1 Put the chicken in a big bowl. In a pan, heat 1 litre of water with the salt, brown sugar and chilli flakes. When it’s dissolved, add 2 litres of cold water and pour over the
chicken. Put in the fridge and leave for at least 2 hrs, but ideally a day or two. When you’re ready to cook, take the chicken out of the water and pat dry all over with kitchen paper. 2 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put the smoked paprika, ground cumin, sea salt and dark brown sugar on a baking tray. Mix them together, then roll the dried chicken pieces in the spices, making sure everything is covered. Roast the chicken for 1 hr or until crispy and caramelised. 3 Meanwhile, for the sauce, gently melt the butter in a small pan with the hot sauce and maple syrup. When the chicken pieces come out of the oven, drizzle this sauce all over them and give them a shake. Serve with a side of creamed corn (see recipe, right).
Heat 75g butter in a heavy-based pan until foaming and fry 1 finely chopped onion for about 5 mins. Cut the kernels off 3 corn cobs and add to the pan with 125ml water. Turn down the heat, cover and cook gently for 10 mins. Add 1 tsp sugar and 125ml single cream, season and cook, uncovered, for 5 mins more. Sprinkle the top with 50g grated cheddar or mozzarella and cook for a couple more mins until melted.
GOOD TO KNOW iron PER SERVING 520 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 15g • carbs 11g • sugars 11g • ibre 3g • protein 39g • salt 7.4g
GOOD TO KNOW ibre • gluten free PER SERVING 344 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 16g • carbs 13g • sugars 6g • ibre 6g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g
The best side dish in the States. It’s everywhere in America but nowhere in Britain. Addictive. SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 81
Mel at 16 with her mum, Joan
The recipe I grew up with: scouse
My life on a plate
MELANIE C Everyone has a dish that brings back childhood memories, and one they’d like to pass on to the next generation. Here, the former Spice Girl shares two of her most treasured recipes interview ROSANNA GREENSTREET
Since going solo, singer-songwriter Melanie Chisholm – aka Sporty Spice – has released seven albums and sold over 12 million records. She has also become an award-winning musical theatre actress having starred in Blood Brothers and Jesus Christ Superstar. Her latest album, Version of Me (£8.99, Red Girl Records), is out now. @MelanieCmusic 82 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
My mum, Joan, always found time to cook from scratch when I was young, even though she worked full time and sang in a band. She was really organised: she’d do her shopping and would know what we were going to have every day, and used leftovers wisely. A lot of people from Liverpool will know scouse. It is basically Irish stew and I think it originally came to Liverpool with Irish immigrants – there are many in my family tree. Lamb or beef, potatoes, carrots and onion are cooked slowly together, and you have it with red cabbage or beetroot. When scouse is on the stove, there’s no smell like it. It’s like a warm hug. I joined the Spice Girls when I was 20 and it was an insane time. I developed an eating disorder; I was in the spotlight, being photographed constantly, and I started to become selfconscious of my body image. I was in denial for a long time but I always wanted to get better – I had talking therapies and holistic therapies, like acupuncture. Sport became really important to me too. I love to be physically fit and, obviously, to really push yourself, you have to make sure you eat the right things. I like to think I have a healthy relationship with food now, and I love to cook. We’re so much more aware of nutrition nowadays. When I was a teenager, I didn’t know the difference between a protein and a carb. We need to get back to realising that we are what we eat.
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 2 hrs 20 mins EASY
500g lamb neck illet, cut into chunky pieces 1 tbsp plain lour 3 tbsp vegetable oil, plus more if needed 1 large onion, chopped 4 carrots, cut into chunks 350g turnip, cut into chunks 250ml bitter ale (I use Cains Finest) 250ml chicken stock 2 bay leaves 2 thyme sprigs 2 beef stock cubes 500g potatoes, cut into chunks pickled red cabbage or cooked beetroot, to serve (optional)
1 Toss the lamb pieces in flour and season well. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large flameproof casserole dish over a high heat. Working in batches, brown the lamb on all sides, adding more oil if needed, then set aside on a plate. 2 Turn down the heat to medium and pour in 2 tbsp oil, tip in the onion, carrots and turnips, add a pinch of salt and cook for 8 mins until softened and coloured. Return the meat to the dish along with the ale, stock and herbs. Crumble in the stock cubes and season well. 3 Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, sitting the potatoes on the top of the stew. Cook for 2 hrs until the meat is tender and the potatoes are soft. Serve with pickled cabbage or beetroot, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW ibre • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 564 kcals • fat 30g • saturates 10g • carbs 38g • sugars 12g • ibre 8g • protein 28g • salt 1.4g
The recipe I’d like to pass on: raw lemon cheesecake This raw lemon cheesecake is a winner and kids lap it up. It’s dairy free and gluten free with just a little agave syrup to sweeten it. My daughter Scarlett is seven and a half, and sometimes she’ll want to get involved with the cooking; other times there are more interesting things to do. As a parent, it’s important to give your children life skills, so when they do go off, they can at least boil an egg!
Raw lemon cheesecake SERVES 12 PREP 15 mins plus soaking and chilling NO COOK
For the base 30g coconut oil, plus extra for greasing 100g blanched almonds 100g soft pitted dates For the topping 300g cashew nuts 2 tbsp agave syrup 50g coconut oil 150ml almond milk 2 lemons, zested and juiced
1 Put the cashews in a large bowl, pour over boiling water and leave to soak for 1 hr. Meanwhile, blitz the ingredients for the base with a pinch of salt in a food processor. Grease a 23cm tart tin with coconut oil, then press the mix into the base and pop in the fridge to set (about 30 mins). 2 Drain the cashews and tip into the cleaned out food processor. Add all the remaining topping ingredients, reserving a quarter of the lemon zest in damp kitchen paper to serve, then blitz until smooth. Spoon onto the base and put in the fridge to set completely (about 2 hrs). Just before serving, scatter over the reserved lemon zest. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 297 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 8g • carbs 16g • sugars 10g • ibre 1g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 83
Portrait MARLENE MARINO Recipe photographs TOM REGESTER Food styling KATY GILHOOLY Styling LUIS PERAL
Mel C’s scouse
Just like Prosciutto di San Daniele and Grana Padano cheese, true taste and real origins simply cannot be imitated. That is why the European Union created the Protected Designation of Origin scheme. PDO makes regional specialities with centuries of tradition easier to ���������Ǥ���������������������������������������ϔ������ of these unique delicacies, look for the PDO logo. Follow our tradition at www.granapadano.it www.prosciuttosandaniele.it
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SHARE YOUR RECIPES
Storecupboard cake Our website, bbcgoodfood.com, is popular with all ages, and we were impressed by this easy bake from one of our younger members recipe BREE HAMILTON photograph MIKE ENGLISH
‘I have been cooking since I was small, and started writing my own recipes as I got older,’ says 14-year-old Bree, from Wiltshire. ‘I mainly cook cakes, desserts and other sweet things. I created this recipe after a busy day at school and just used ingredients I could find in the kitchen. I designed it to be quick and easy, as it’s always good to have a simple cake recipe to hand.’
Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling SARAH BIRKS
SERVES 8 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
175ml olive oil, plus extra for greasing 100g light brown muscovado sugar 2 eggs, beaten 225g plain lour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 /2 tsp allspice 1 /2 orange, juiced 1 /2 lemon, juiced 200g mixed dried fruit 200g apricot jam icing sugar, for dusting
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/ gas 3. Grease and line the base of two 20cm springform cake tins with baking parchment. 2 Stir together the oil and sugar, add the eggs, flour, baking powder, spices and juices, and mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon until pourable and reasonably runny. Gently fold in the fruit, then divide the batter evenly between the tins. Bake for 20-25 mins or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean, then leave to cool. 3 When cool, remove from the tins and sandwich the cakes together with jam. Sieve some icing sugar on top to serve. PER SERVING 505 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 4g • carbs 67g • sugars 45g • ibre 2g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g
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DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 85
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Whether it’s a family brunch, a quick bite or something to feed a crowd, we’ve got those days between Christmas and New Year covered. And if your fridge is heaving with leftovers, our new recipes will help you make the most of them recipes CASSIE BEST photographs TOM REGESTER
Mustard & clementine glazed ham hocks, p94 88 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Crunchy almond panettone French toast, p94 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 89
Turkey ramen, p96 90 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Membrillo, chorizo & cheddar toastie, p96 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 91
Rainbow beet slaw with pecans & maple dressing This is a goes-with-everything side salad. If you want to serve it over a few days, leave out the soft herbs as they will wilt in the dressing. SERVES 8 10 PREP 25 mins NO COOK V 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 clementine, juiced 1 large lemon, zested and juiced 2 tbsp maple syrup
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5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil or rapeseed oil 50g pecans, roughly chopped 8 beetroots, a mix of colours, peeled and halved 1 /4 celeriac, peeled 1 dessert apple, halved 1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced small pack dill, roughly chopped small pack parsley, roughly chopped
1 Mix the mustard, clementine and lemon juice, zest, maple syrup, oil and some seasoning in a large bowl. Toast the pecans
in a frying pan until a shade darker, then tip them into the bowl. Cut the beetroot, celeriac and apple into fine matchsticks (use a mandolin with a julienne attachment if you have one) and add to the bowl. 2 Add the onion, herbs and some seasoning, and toss until everything is well coated in the dressing. The slaw will keep for a few days in the fridge but the beet will stain all the other veg, so it will look best if served within 1-2 hrs. GOOD TO KNOW folate • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (10) 139 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 1g • carbs 9g • sugars 8g • ibre 3g • protein 2g • salt 0.4g
Roast potato, turkey, sausage & stuffing pie, p96 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 93
Mustard & clementine glazed ham hocks If you’re craving Christmas ham, this is the recipe you need. It ticks so many boxes: it’s simple to cook, cheap and you get a high caramelised glaze-to-meat ratio – which is always the best bit! SERVES 8 10 PREP 20 mins plus overnight soaking COOK 3 hrs 15 mins EASY 4 ham hocks, smoked or unsmoked, rind removed (you can ask a butcher to do this) 4 clementines, halved 1 /2 tsp ground allspice 1 /4 freshly grated nutmeg 2 star anise 3 bay leaves 4 tbsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp black treacle 6 tbsp soft light brown sugar
1 The day before, soak the ham hocks in water overnight in the fridge, to draw out some of the salt (they may have already been soaked by the butcher, so check first). 2 The next day, drain the hocks and pat them dry. Heat oven to 160C/
Crunchy almond panettone French toast Panettone is delicious served with coffee, but after a few days nibbling on the sweet bread, you’ll probably be wondering what to do with the leftovers. It makes wonderful French toast as well as bread & butter pudding (visit bbcgoodfood.com for a recipe). SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 8 mins EASY 2 eggs 250ml milk 1 tsp ground cinnamon 3 clementines, 1 zested, 2 peeled and sliced horizontally 4 toast-sized slices panettone, about 2cm thick 50g laked almonds knob of butter drizzle of lavourless oil, such as sun lower or vegetable 50g pomegranate seeds maple syrup and Greek yogurt, to serve (optional)
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140C fan/gas 3. Mix the allspice, nutmeg and 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper together and rub into the hocks. Put them in a deep roasting tin with the clementines, cut-side up. Tuck the star anise and bay around the hocks, and pour in 200ml water. Cover the tin in foil and roast for 3 hrs. 3 Remove the tin from the oven and increase the heat to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Unwrap the tin and drain off the liquid. Squeeze the juice from the clementines over the hocks and return the juiced halves to the tin. Mix the Dijon, treacle and sugar in a bowl and paint half the glaze all over the hocks. Return to the oven for 15-20 mins, turning and brushing with the remaining glaze every 5 mins until the hocks are burnished and caramelised in places. Shred or slice the meat and eat warm or cold. Leftovers will keep in the fridge for up to five days (and make the best sarnies!). GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (10) 317 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 5g • carbs 15g • sugars 15g • ibre none • protein 29g • salt 4.2g
1 In a wide, shallow bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, cinnamon and clementine zest. Add the sliced panettone to the mixture and leave to soak for 5 mins, turning occasionally until all the liquid has been absorbed (alternatively you can wrap the bowl in cling film and chill overnight.) 2 Scatter the almonds over a plate and carefully dunk in the soaked panettone, pressing to help the almond flakes stick, then turn and stick more to the other side. Heat the butter and oil in a large frying pan (you may need to use two pans if the pieces are quite large.) 3 When the butter is bubbling, add the panettone and cook over a medium heat for 3-4 mins each side until golden. Serve with pomegranate seeds, clementine slices, and maple syrup and yogurt, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • ibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 1,000 kcals • fat 47g • saturates 19g • carbs 111g • sugars 58g • ibre 7g • protein 29g • salt 1.1g
Mincemeat, apple & marzipan wreath This festive bake can do double duty over the holidays: served warm with thick brandy cream or custard, it makes a wonderful dessert; or, once cool, slice into wedges and serve with a cup of tea or mulled wine. SERVES 10 12 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins EASY G 320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 100g marzipan, grated 1 small orange, zested 300g mincemeat, homemade or shop-bought 1 /2 dessert apple, chopped into small pieces 1 egg, beaten icing sugar, for dusting
1 Unravel the pastry, cut off a 4cm strip along the width and chill this piece until later. Cut the remaining pastry in half lengthways. Place the pastry pieces end to end, so you have one long rectangle, squashing the cut ends together to seal. Scatter over the marzipan and orange zest, leaving a border of about 1cm free along one side. Spoon the mincemeat along the centre, like you’re making sausage rolls, then top with the apple. 2 Brush a little beaten egg over the exposed pastry edge. Starting from the other side, roll into a long sausage, sealing with the eggwashed edge. Use a sharp knife or a pair of scissors to snip almost all the way into the pastry at a slight angle at 5cm intervals, keeping all the pieces attached along one edge. Coil into a ring, with the cut pieces on the outside to help it bend, and tuck one end into the other to give a neat finish. Brush the wreath with egg, then use the trimmings from earlier to make decorations, such as stars or holly leaves, and brush these with egg too. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and chill for 30 mins. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake the wreath for 20 mins or until golden brown. Dust with icing sugar and serve warm for dessert, or cold as an alternative to mince pies. PER SERVING (12) 216 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 29g • sugars 21g • ibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.4g
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 95
The key to a good ramen is the broth, which is traditionally made from slowly simmering chicken or pork bones to extract the rich meaty flavour. If you’ve put a lot of love into this year’s gravy, and have some left over, this makes a great substitute. SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY 2 garlic cloves thumb-sized piece ginger, sliced, plus a few slices cut into ine matchsticks to serve 1 tbsp white miso paste 1 tbsp goma (white sesame paste) or tahini 15g dried shiitake mushrooms 700g leftover turkey gravy, or good-quality chicken stock 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 eggs, at room temperature 150g ramen noodles (egg, rice or udon noodles will all work too) 200g leftover turkey meat, shredded 2 spring onions, inely sliced, white and green parts kept separate 1 lime, halved 25g ready-to-eat beansprouts sesame oil, sriracha, chopped coriander, crushed peanuts, crumbled sheets of nori or dried chilli threads (silgochu), to serve (optional)
Membrillo, chorizo & cheddar toastie Make a cosy night in on the sofa even more indulgent with this meltingly good TV dinner. SERVES 1 PREP 10 mins COOK 6 mins EASY 1 tbsp membrillo (quince paste) 2 thick slices sourdough or good-quality white bread 4 5 thin slices chorizo 50g mature cheddar, grated (or another strong, hard or melty cheese leftover from the Christmas cheeseboard) 1 tbsp mayonnaise 3 large sage leaves 1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil
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1 Crush the garlic with the back of a big knife, then put it in a saucepan with the ginger, miso, goma, mushrooms, gravy and soy. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover and bubble for 5 mins until the ginger is soft. Strain into a clean pan and discard the aromatics and mushrooms. 2 Meanwhile, cook the eggs in a pan of boiling water for 7 mins. Plunge straight into a bowl of cold water and set aside to cool. Cook the noodles for 1 min less than instructed on the pack, so they retain a little bite. Drain and leave in the pan with a little cooking water so they don’t stick together. Add the turkey and whites of the spring onions to the broth and gently reheat for 1-2 mins. 3 Divide the noodles between two deep bowls, ladle over the broth and top with a squeeze of lime, the beansprouts, ginger matchsticks, green spring onion and a drizzle of sesame oil, plus the other toppings, if you like. Peel and halve the eggs and place these on top too. GOOD TO KNOW ibre PER SERVING 656 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 4g • carbs 64g • sugars 6g • ibre 7g • protein 61g • salt 6.5g
1 Heat a large frying pan. Spread the membrillo paste over one slice of bread (you might need to mash it first with 1 tsp water if it’s very firm), top with the chorizo and cheese, and sandwich with the other slice. Spread the outside of both pieces of bread with mayo, and press on the sage leaves. 2 Heat the oil in the pan and cook the toastie for 2-3 mins each side, squashing with a fish slice every now and then, until the bread is crisp and golden and the cheese has melted. Cut in half to serve. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • iron PER SERVING 1,049 kcals • fat 68g • saturates 20g • carbs 72g • sugars 13g • ibre 3g • protein 35g • salt 3.8g
Roast potato, turkey, sausage & stuffing pie SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins EASY 1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil knob of butter 1 large onion, halved and sliced 6 sausages or 8 chipolatas (leftover pigs in blankets are ine too) 2 tsp English mustard powder 50g plain lour 1 chicken stock cube, crumbled 150ml white wine 500ml chicken stock, or leftover gravy 6 stuffing balls, left over or shop-bought 300g cooked turkey, shredded 1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 100g low-fat crème fraîche small bunch parsley, chopped 800g leftover roast potatoes 20g mature cheddar, grated
1 Heat the oil and butter in a large, shallow ovenproof casserole dish. Add the onion and cook for 10 mins until really soft. Push the onion to one side of the dish and add the sausages, browning them all over (skip this step if you’re using cooked leftovers). 2 Remove the sausages from the dish and set aside to cool a little. Stir the mustard powder, flour and stock cube into the oil and butter for 1-2 mins, then add the white wine. Bubble for 1 min, scraping the bottom of the dish to release any tasty bits, then add the stock. Stir to make a smooth sauce, season and bubble for 5 mins. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 3 Cut the sausages and stuffing into bite-sized chunks, add to the sauce with the turkey, mustard, crème fraîche and parsley. When bubbling, remove from the heat. Crumble the potatoes in your hands over the top of the filling, so you have some larger and smaller chunks. Scatter with cheese and bake for 40 mins until the potatoes are crisp and the filling is bubbling around the edges. GOOD TO KNOW ibre PER SERVING 605 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 8g • carbs 57g • sugars 7g • ibre 7g • protein 30g • salt 1.8g
Food styling BECKY WILKINSON Styling JO HARRIS
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Beer-braised ox cheeks DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 97
Easy party bites These recipes from chef Gizzi Erskine look impressive but they’re very simple – plus you can do lots of the prep ahead of time photographs DAVID MUNNS
The sweetness of smoked salmon gives ceviche a new, festive spin. I’ve used lightly smoked fresh salmon fillets and cut them into cubes, as most sliced smoked salmon will be too thin, and likely to disintegrate into the dish. Alternatively, if you’ve bought a whole unsliced smoked salmon fillet for Christmas, this is a brilliant way to use up leftovers. Scoop into them both simultaneously, getting some of the creamy guac and spicy piquant ceviche with each mouthful. SERVES 15 PREP 25 mins NO COOK
For the ceviche 1 2 red chillies (depending on how spicy you like things), very inely chopped red onion, very inely chopped 2 clementines, juiced 4 5 limes, juiced small pack coriander, chopped 2 lightly smoked salmon illets, skinned and cut into cubes 200g pack small peeled cooked prawns, each cut into 3 (or roughly chopped if you’re feeling lazy) good-quality corn tortilla chips, to serve (I love blue corn chips, available from ocado.com)
Chef Gizzi Erskine is a food and travel writer and best-selling author, known for her stylish, informal take on food and fashion. Her latest cookbook, Gizzi’s Season’s Eatings (£25, Mitchell Beazley) is out now. @gizzierskine @GizziErskine
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For the guacamole 4 avocados, halved, stoned and lesh scooped out 1 2 limes (to taste), juiced, 4 spring onions, very thinly sliced 2 irm tomatoes on the vine, quartered, deseeded and inely chopped small pack coriander, chopped good pinch of ground cumin
1 For the ceviche, mix the chillies, onion, salt, citrus juices and coriander with 1 tsp salt in a large bowl – this is your dressing and, once mixed with the salmon and prawns, it’s known as ‘tiger’s milk’. Mix in the salmon and prawns and leave to sit for 10 mins while you make the guacamole. 2 Put the avocado flesh in a mixing bowl and mash with the back of a fork. Mix in the lime juice and 1 tsp salt, then gently stir in the spring onions, tomatoes, coriander and cumin. The guacamole can be made an hour ahead and drizzled with a little extra lime juice so it doesn’t brown. 3 Put the guacamole in a serving bowl and push it over to one side of the bowl. Tip the ceviche into the bowl alongside the guacamole. Serve with the corn chips. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 131 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 2g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 1.4g
‘A buffet doesn’t have to be the retro kind with cheese-and-pineapple hedgehogs and soggy sandwiches. You can go to town with an exciting and varied array of food’
Portrait SUNSET CREATIVE/LICKERISH | Food styling KATY GILHOOLY Styling LUIS PERAL
Christmas ceviche with guacamole
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Smoked cheese in blankets I’ve been eating these for years but I can’t take credit for their invention. They were originally made for one of our best-loved supermarkets. Sadly, they were discontinued, so I thought I’d better create a recipe. SERVES 10 12 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY
18 24 thin rashers smoked pancetta, 150g Bavarian smoked cheese, trimmed and cut into 24 pieces a few rosemary sprigs
1 Heat oven to 200C/180 fan/gas 6. Carefully wrap the pancetta around the cheese pieces (you may not need a full slice of pancetta for each piece of cheese, depending on the size). Can be done two days ahead and kept covered in the fridge.
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2 Put the rosemary sprigs on a baking tray and place the cheese in blankets on top. Roast in the oven for 15 mins until golden and crispy. Serve immediately but be careful, as they will be molten hot inside. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (12) 107 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 5g • carbs none • sugars none • ibre none • protein 5g • salt 0.8g
Sticky bourbon BBQ wings with blue cheese dip Nibbling on chicken wings and getting spicy barbecue sauce all over your fingers and face is one of life’s pleasures. The cool blue cheese & soured cream dip takes the edge off the heat in the sauce. Dip in the chicken wings or the celery and radishes – or, as I do – both! MAKES 40 PREP 35 mins COOK 45 mins EASY
1kg whole chicken wings 2 tbsp olive oil 4 celery sticks, each cut into 4 small sticks (keep some with their leaves) bunch French breakfast radishes (with their leaves, if you can get them) For the barbecue sauce 150ml tomato ketchup 100ml cider vinegar 100ml bourbon 4 tbsp dark brown sugar 2 tbsp hot chilli sauce 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp each ground cumin, coriander and paprika 1 tbsp butter For the blue cheese dressing 100g Gorgonzola 150ml soured cream 50g mayonnaise good squeeze lemon juice
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Cut the chicken wings into winglets by slicing through each of the joints. Keep the two meaty pieces and discard the wing tips, or freeze for stock. 2 Put the winglets on a large baking sheet, drizzle with the olive oil, then season. Roast in the oven for 20 mins, then reduce the temperature to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and cook for a further 25 mins. 3 Meanwhile, make the barbecue sauce. Put all the ingredients, except the butter, in a pan and mix together with plenty of black pepper. Let it bubble away for 3-5 mins to thicken up a little, then add the butter and stir until it has melted and made the sauce nice and shiny. Season to taste. 4 Half an hour before the chicken wings are ready, take them out of the oven and brush over three-quarters
of the barbecue sauce. When they’re fully cooked, toss them in the rest of the sauce so that they become sticky. 5 In a small bowl, mash the blue cheese dressing ingredients together with some seasoning, until combined. The barbecue sauce and dip can be made a day ahead, covered and chilled. Serve alongside the wings with the celery sticks and radishes for dipping. PER WING 213 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 5g • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • ibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g
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Spiced pea & courgette fritters with minty yogurt dip MAKES 30 PREP 25 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V
For the yogurt dip 120ml Greek yogurt garlic clove, crushed 1 tbsp good-quality extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp mint sauce (or 2 tbsp freshly chopped mint leaves) For the fritters 100g gluten-free plain white lour 3 medium eggs 2 courgettes, grated and the moisture squeezed out 60g peas (thawed if frozen) 2 tbsp inely chopped mint leaves 2 spring onions, inely sliced 1 green chilli, deseeded and inely chopped 1 lemon, zested
1 tsp each ground coriander and ground cumin tsp baking powder 4 tbsp vegetable oil, for frying To serve 100g feta, crumbled 3 spring onions, thinly sliced on a diagonal
1 In a large bowl, mix together all the fritter ingredients, except the oil, until combined. For the yogurt dip, simply mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl with plenty of freshly ground black pepper and 1 tsp salt. The dip can be made in the morning and chilled. 2 When you’re ready to cook the fritters, heat the oil over a high heat (you want to make sure the oil is really hot, so be brave!). Carefully drop 1 tbsp of batter into the pan
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– add only 4-5 tbsp at a time so you don’t overcrowd the pan – and fry for about 2 mins each side until nicely crisp and golden. Remove from the pan and place on kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil. The fritters can be fried a couple of hours before serving, then reheated in the oven. 3 To reheat the fritters ready for serving, heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the fritters on a baking tray and bake for 10 mins or until crispy and hot. Serve on a platter with the feta and spring onions scattered over, with the minty yogurt dip on the side. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER FRITTER 53 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 3g • sugars 1g • ibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.3g
• Turn to page 27 for Rosie Birkett’s party guide for foodies
PREMIUM READER EVENT
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Join us for a Chinese New Year supper club at the School of Wok Learn more about authentic oriental cuisine at this fabulous event in London We’ve teamed up with the award-winning School of Wok to plan an exclusive supper club to celebrate Chinese New Year – and you’re invited. Established in Covent Garden, the School of Wok is renowned for teaching authentic Asian cuisine for the modern domestic cook. Awarded ‘Best Specialist Cookery School’ at the 2014 British Cookery School Awards, School of Wok started life as a door-to-door mobile kitchen, and has taught more than 15,000 students since it opened in 2012. This unique supper club will be hosted by School of Wok founder Jeremy Pang, author of Chinese Unchopped. He will be joined by executive chef and joint owner of the award winning Yu Alderley Edge, Victor Yu, and together they will be doing cookery demos throughout the evening. Start with a glass of prosecco, followed by dinner with wine or beer, plus each guest will receive products worth £50 from the new wok range, School of Wok by Dexam, to take home.
THE DATE Friday 3 February 2017 THE PLACE School of Wok,
Covent Garden, London THE TIME 6.30 9.30pm THE ITINERARY A glass of prosecco, followed by a meal with two glasses of wine or beer, with cooking demos throughout the evening. Plus, you will receive products worth £50 from School of Wok’s new wok range THE PRICE £85 per person TO BOOK Visit seetickets.com/ tour/school-of-wok or call 0871 231 0847 (calls cost 13p per minute plus network extras)
Sharing dishes sample menu Wok-seared salt & pepper diver scallops with wild mushrooms •
Slow-cooked belly pork with crispy crackling, served with Baby Gem lettuce, pickled Chinese radish and kin doe sauce •
Jeremy Pang’s Sui Long Bao (soup dumpling) •
Sea bass or sea bream marinated with lemongrass, chilli and ginger, baked in a banana leaf with sticky rice •
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Rib-eye with sweet soya lime served with Tenderstem broccoli •
Coconut pandan crème brûlée Cantonese-style, finished with sliced caramelised pineapple
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 103
Bake a snowman
Drippy cakes are one of the hottest trends in baking. This cake takes a little time but it’s well worth the effort – and the kids will love helping with the decorating Malted milk melting snowman cake We used a hemisphere tin to make the snowman’s head (ours came from lakeland.co.uk). You can buy malt extract from health food stores or online. SERVES 25 30 PREP 1 hr plus chilling COOK 1 hr 25 mins MORE EFFORT G sponges only
For the sponges 500g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing 500g golden caster sugar 10 eggs 200g plain lour 200g full-fat natural yogurt 460g self-raising lour 4 tbsp malt extract (or 2 tbsp vanilla paste) 1 tbsp full-fat milk (or 2 tbsp if using vanilla paste) For the buttercream 400g unsalted butter, softened 700g icing sugar 2 tbsp malt extract (or 1 tbsp vanilla paste) 1 tbsp full-fat milk For the drippy ganache 100g white chocolate 1 /2 tsp vegetable oil To decorate 30g black fondant 30g bright orange fondant 1 wooden dowel, cut the same length as the nose 2 3 giant chocolate buttons 2 white chocolate Mikado sticks, for the arms You will need 23cm cake board 16cm cake board squeezy bottle
1 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Grease two 20cm round cake tins and line with baking parchment. Heavily grease a 16cm hemisphere cake tin and stand on a ramekin on a baking sheet to hold it steady. 2 First, make the sponges. Using electric beaters or a tabletop mixer, beat the butter and sugar together until pale and fluffy. Pour the eggs in, one at a time, giving the mix a thorough beating before adding the next. If the mix starts to look curdled, add 2 tbsp of the plain flour. Beat in the yogurt. 3 Mix both the flours together, adding 1 /2 tsp salt, and slowly beat into the batter, followed by the malt extract (or vanilla paste) and milk. Spoon half the mixture into one of the 20cm tins, and split the remaining half between the other 20cm tin and the 16cm hemisphere. Bake the smaller amount of cake batter in the 20cm tin and the 16cm tin for 1 hr, and the larger amount for 1 hr 20 mins or until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the middle of the cakes. Cool in the tin for 10 mins before turning out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Can be frozen at this stage for up to three months. 4 Meanwhile, make the buttercream by beating all the butter and half the icing sugar together using an electric whisk or tabletop mixer. Add the rest of the icing sugar once incorporated, followed by the malt extract (or vanilla paste) and milk. Set aside until ready to use. 5 To assemble, halve the largest 20cm cake horizontally so you are left with two equal-sized sponges the same size as the remaining 20cm cake. Put a blob of buttercream onto a 23cm cake board (or cake stand) and spread using a palette knife. Stick one of the sponges to the board. Spread a thick layer of buttercream on top of the cake and sandwich another sponge on top. Spread over another thick layer and sit the final sponge on top. Using a palette knife, coat the entire cake in a thin layer of buttercream and smooth the sides and top carefully, working around the whole cake, scraping off any excess icing. Chill in the freezer for 10 mins or in the fridge for 1 hr until set.
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6 Meanwhile, put the hemisphere sponge on the smaller cake board and halve horizontally. Fill the middle with some buttercream, sandwich with the top and coat the entire cake in a thin layer of buttercream. Chill in the freezer for 5 mins or in the fridge for 30 mins. 7 Take the larger cake out of the freezer and coat in another layer of buttercream. Take care when covering this time, as you want a smooth finish to the cake. Running the palette knife under hot water helps smooth over the sides once it is coated completely. Chill again for 5 mins in the freezer. 8 Cover the hemisphere sponge with buttercream and smooth over with the palette knife. Carefully lift the hemisphere onto the centre of the cake (as the sponge has been frozen you shouldn’t leave finger marks). Press down lightly to set on the buttercream. If there is a gap around the rim, use a small palette knife to fill in with any remaining buttercream. Chill for 10-15 mins. 9 Meanwhile, make the eyes and nose using coloured fondant. Roll the black fondant into two balls for the eyes, and five smaller balls for the mouth. Roll the orange fondant into a carrot shape. Leave to set and harden slightly while you make the drippy ganache. 10 Make the drippy ganache by mixing the chocolate and oil and microwaving for 30 secs, stirring and then giving it another 30 secs until melted. Transfer to a squeezy bottle, then pour down the edges of the round cake to create the melting snow effect. 11 To finish the cake, stick the eyes to the head using a little remaining buttercream. Poke the wooden dowel into the carrot nose, leaving some poking out to stick it to the face. Stick the five small black fondant balls for the mouth and the chocolate buttons down the front of the cake for buttons. Insert the Mikado sticks on either side for the arms. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving. PER SERVING (30) 525 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 17g • carbs 63g • sugars 45g • ibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.4g
Food styling KATY GREENWOOD Styling AGATHE GITS
recipe CHELSIE COLLINS photograph WILL HEAP
Find more drippy cakes, such as banana & custard cake and malted chocolate drizzle & honeycomb cake, at bbcgoodfood.com.
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COOKING FOR KIDS
Serve up big-batch comfort food the whole family will love. The beauty of this veggie chilli, pulled pork and sides is that children and adults can mix and match to make their perfect meal recipes SARAH COOK photographs MAJA SMEND
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Turn the page for our family-friendly recipes
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Double bean & roasted pepper chilli If you’re cooking for more than eight, a big bowl of long-grain rice is a great way to bulk up their plates and stretch this chilli. Serve Tabasco sauce, extra soured cream or natural yogurt alongside, if you like. SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins COOK 1 hr 15 mins EASY V G
2 onions, chopped 2 celery sticks, inely chopped 2 yellow or orange peppers, inely chopped 2 tbsp rapeseed or sun lower oil 2 x 460g jars roasted red peppers 2 tsp chipotle paste 2 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp each cocoa powder, dried oregano and sweet smoked paprika 2 tbsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 400g can refried beans 3 x 400g cans kidney beans, drained and rinsed 2 x 400g cans black beans, drained and rinsed
1 Put the onions, celery and chopped peppers with the oil in your largest flameproof casserole dish or heavy-based saucepan, and fry gently over a low heat until soft but not coloured. 2 Drain both jars of peppers over a bowl to catch the juices. Put a quarter of the peppers into a food processor with the chipotle paste, vinegar, cocoa, dried spices and herbs. Whizz to a purée, then stir into the softened veg and cook for a few mins. 3 Add the tomatoes and refried beans with 1 can water and the reserved pepper juice. Simmer for
1 hr until thickened, smoky and the tomato chunks have broken down to a smoother sauce. 4 At this stage you can cool and chill the sauce if making ahead. Otherwise add the kidney and black beans, and the remaining roasted peppers, cut into bitesized pieces, then reheat. (This makes a large batch, so once the sauce is ready it might be easier to split it between two pans when you add the beans and peppers.) Once bubbling and the beans are hot, season to taste and serve. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • ibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • good for you • gluten free PER SERVING 327 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 41g • sugars 9g • ibre 18g • protein 19g • salt 0.6g
Pea-camole Big kids love avocado, little kids love peas – and they add a good natural sweetness to this chilli-topping classic. It’s a perfect mash-up. SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins plus soaking NO COOK V
200g frozen peas 2 ripe avocados, halved, stoned and peeled 2 limes, juiced small bunch coriander (keep aside a handful for the nachos on p112)
1 Boil the kettle. Tip the peas into a mixing bowl and cover with about 2.5cm of boiling water. Leave for 5 mins to defrost, then drain well and tip back into the bowl. 2 Add the avocados with the lime juice and some salt, and mash everything together. Roughly chop the coriander and briefly mash through before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 93 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 3g • sugars 2g • ibre 3g • protein 2g • salt none
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HOW TO GET AHEAD • Two days ahead Marinate the pork and make the sauce for the chilli base (this will keep in the freezer for up to three months). • The day before Make the relish. • In the morning Make the avocado-lime base of the pea-camole and defrost the peas (don’t mash or they’ll lose their colour by serving time). Assemble the garlic bread nachos. • At lunchtime Put the pork in the oven. • Just before eating Bake the nachos while the pork inishes. Combine the chilli sauce and beans, and reheat. Bring the relish and pea-camole out of the fridge to warm a little, and mash in the peas to inish.
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Pull-apart pork with honey chipotle SERVES 8 with the chilli PREP 10 mins plus at least 2 hrs marinating COOK 4 hrs 30 mins EASY G
1 Up to two days before (and at least 2 hrs ahead), mix together 75g ketchup with 2 tbsp chipotle, 2 tbsp honey and the vinegar. Rub all over the pork and leave in a food bag (or bowl) in the fridge to marinate, turning occasionally. 2 Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Lift the pork into a snug-fitting roasting tin and baste with any excess marinade, plus 100ml water. Cover with foil, ensuring the pork is sealed in but the foil isn’t touching it, and bake for 4 hrs. 3 Turn up the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 (or cool and chill the pork, if making ahead). Remove the foil and put the pork back in for 30 mins until crisp and sticky on the outside. 4 Lift the pork from the tin and use two forks to shred the meat. Mix together the extra 1 tbsp ketchup with the remaining chipotle and honey, and stir it through the shredded meat with some seasoning before serving. PER SERVING 267 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 3g • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • ibre none • protein 35g • salt 0.5g
Red jalapeño relish One for the adults – a great way to add a touch of heat. SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins NO COOK V
4 5 big plum tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 tbsp tomato purée 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp honey 1 small red onion, inely chopped 75 100g red jalapeños from a jar, inely chopped, plus a few extra to decorate tsp coriander seeds, ground with a pestle and mortar
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1 Sit the tomatoes in a sieve over a mixing bowl for 5 mins. Lift off the sieve and mix the tomato purée, vinegar and honey into the tomato juices to make a smooth base. Stir in the tomatoes, onion, 75g chopped jalapeños and the coriander seeds with some seasoning. 2 Leave to sit for 5 mins, then taste for spiciness – if you like it hotter, add the remaining 25g jalapeños. Decorate with a few whole jalapeños to serve. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER SERVING 16 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 3g • sugars 3g • ibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.3g
Garlic bread nachos If you’re serving just six, you could use just two baguettes and scale down the rest of the ingredients by a third. But you may as well do a big batch because we all know it’s going to disappear pretty quickly! SERVES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V
3 ready-made garlic baguettes 90g lighter mature cheddar, grated 3 spring onions, inely sliced 30g bag tortilla chips, crunched a few times to roughly crush 90g soured cream handful coriander leaves (saved from the pea-camole on p110)
1 Cut through the baguettes to separate all the slices, discarding the end pieces. 2 Pile the bread slices on top of your biggest baking sheet, all overlapping, as you would with tortillas for nachos. Scatter over most of the cheese, spring onions and crushed tortilla chips as you layer, finishing with a final layer of these toppings. If you’re preparing ahead, you can cover the tray with cling film and chill until ready to cook. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake for 15 mins until the cheese has melted and the bread is golden and crisp. Loosen the soured cream with enough water to make a more drizzly topping, then spoon over the nachos and sprinkle with some coriander. Serve while everything is still hot and melted. PER SERVING 319 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 9g • carbs 30g • sugars 2g • ibre 2g • protein 8g • salt 1.0g
Find more recipes to enjoy as a family at bbcgoodfood.com/ recipes/category/family-kids
Food styling EMILY KYDD Styling LYDIA BRUN
1.2kg trimmed pork shoulder joint (weight after cutting away the rind – ask your butcher to do this) 75g ketchup, plus 1 tbsp 3 tbsp chipotle paste 3 tbsp honey 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
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To order Call 0844 493 5654** quoting product code D7346 and order code 66518 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/66518 or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to BVG Group, to: BBC Good Food offer 66518, PO Box 87, Brecon LD3 3BE. Terms and conditions **Calls cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. ‘Was’ pricing refers to the original selling prices offered on the promoter’s website, cjoffers.co.uk, and in its retail store between 25/7/16 and 25/10/16. Delivery within seven working days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. If not completely satis ied with your order, please return goods in mint condition and sealed original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). Your contract for supply of goods is with BVG Group. A signature is required on delivery. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 66518 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/66518 DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 113
SIMPLY GOOD FOOD
New Year with friends This menu has a make-ahead starter and dessert, plus a prep-ahead main, freeing you up to see in the New Year with everyone else rather than being stuck in the kitchen recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY photographs DAVID MUNNS
Menu for 6-8 Faux gras with toast & pickles Twice-cooked beef short ribs with dripping carrots & gravy Smoked mash Buttermilk caramel puddings
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3 To finish the dish, heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Sit the ribs in a roasting tin, bone-side down, and roast for 25 mins until very brown, sizzling and crisp around the edges. 4 Meanwhile, lift the solidified dripping off the sauce and melt half in a frying pan until gently sizzling. Add the carrots and gently fry to reheat. Season with sea salt, toss through the parsley and lift the carrots out of the fat into a serving dish. 5 Pour the sauce into a saucepan with the red onion marmalade and bring to the boil. Skim off any froth and continue to boil and stir until you have a sticky gravy. Serve everything together on a large board with the racks piled on top of each other and a few ribs carved away to start with. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • iron • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (8) 524 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 13g • carbs 7g • sugars 6g • ibre 3g • protein 40g • salt 0.3g
Smoked mash SERVES 6 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V G
Short ribs are becoming more readily available and are usually sold individually. To make the prep easier, I’ve kept them as a whole rack, so you may need to order them from your butcher in advance. SERVES 6 8 PREP 20 mins plus cooling and overnight chilling COOK 4 hrs 20 mins EASY G
vegetable oil, for frying 2 racks of beef short ribs (4 bones each) 750ml bottle red wine 8 carrots, peeled but left whole 2 tbsp red onion marmalade large bunch parsley, chopped
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1 At least one day before eating, slow-cook the ribs. Heat oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. If you have a flameproof roasting tin, then heat it with the oil and brown the seasoned fleshy sides of the ribs well. If not, do this in a frying pan and transfer the ribs to a roasting tin, flesh-side down. Nestle the whole carrots among the ribs and pour over all the wine. Cover the roasting tin tightly with foil and put in the oven for 4 hrs, turning any carrots that aren’t submerged in the wine halfway through. 2 When cooked, leave to cool, then transfer the ribs and carrots to a tray, pouring the cooking juices into a bowl. Cover and chill everything overnight. Can be prepared up to two days ahead.
GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 204 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 4g • carbs 32g • sugars 3g • ibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 1.1g
Food styling KATY GILHOOLY
Twice-cooked beef short ribs with dripping carrots & gravy
1 Boil the potatoes in a large pan of water for 20-25 mins until mashable. Drain well. 2 In the same saucepan (no need to clean it), bring the milk, butter and a couple of pinches of smoked sea salt to the boil. Take off the heat and either rice or mash the potatoes into the hot milk, beating until completely combined. Serve alongside the short ribs and carrots, with extra smoked salt on the side to season, if you like.
Styling LUIS PERAL
1.5kg loury potatoes (such as Maris Pipers or King Edwards), cut into large chunks 200ml milk 50g butter smoked sea salt, plus extra to serve (optional)
Faux gras with toast & pickles With only two ingredients, this is the easiest parfait you’ll ever make. If you have a smoothie bullet blender, it’ll give you the most velvety result. SERVES 6 8 PREP 15 mins plus chilling COOK 8 mins EASY G
100g butter, softened 300g organic chicken or duck livers, trimmed, cleaned and patted dry To serve sliced brioche or sourdough
cornichons chutney sea salt lakes
1 Heat 50g butter in a frying pan until sizzling, add the livers and fry for 4 mins until coloured on the outside and slightly pink in the middle. Leave to cool, then tip the contents of the pan into a food processor or a smoothie bullet blender. Season generously with salt and add the remaining butter. Blitz until you have a smooth purée, then scrape into a container, smooth over the top and place
in the fridge to chill for at least 2 hrs. Can be made a day ahead. 2 To serve, griddle slices of brioche or sourdough, and tip some cornichons and chutney into small pots. Put a large spoon in a cup of hot water. As if serving ice cream, scoop a spoonful of the faux gras onto each plate, dipping the spoon into the water after each scoop. Sprinkle a few salt flakes over each scoop and serve with the toasts, cornichons and chutney. GOOD TO KNOW folate PER SERVING (8) 127 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs none • sugars none • ibre none • protein 7g • salt 0.3g
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Buttermilk caramel puddings A foolproof make-ahead spin on a crème caramel, made with just five ingredients. SERVES 6 8 PREP 15 mins plus soaking, cooling and setting COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT
350g white caster sugar 3 sheets leaf gelatine 600ml double cream 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scrapped out 284ml pot buttermilk
1 You’ll need 6-8 dariole moulds or small individual pudding basins. Tip 150g of the sugar into a shallow pan and place over a medium heat. Cook the sugar until dissolved and turning to a light amber caramel. While it is still hot, carefully pour the caramel over the base of the moulds, tipping them around so some caramel also sticks to the sides. Set aside. 2 Soak the gelatine in very cold water for about 10 mins to soften. Tip the cream, remaining sugar and the vanilla pod and seeds into a saucepan. Place on the heat, stirring to combine and dissolve the sugar. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally, then remove from the heat. Add the drained, squeezed gelatine leaves and stir to dissolve, then leave to cool. When tepid, remove and squeeze out the vanilla pod, stir in the buttermilk, then strain everything into a jug. Share the mixture between the moulds, then place in the fridge for at least a couple of hours, or preferably overnight to set. Can be made up to three days ahead. 3 To serve, dip the bases of the moulds briefly into very hot water until the fillings just come away from the sides. When you are confident that it will turn out, place a serving plate over the mould and carefully turn, allowing the contents to drop out onto the plate, scooping out any caramel sauce left in the mould and drizzling over the puddings. Serve immediately. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (8) 562 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 25g • carbs 47g • sugars 47g • ibre none • protein 3g • salt 0.1g
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A true taste of Northern Ireland Food’s an integral part of the landscape, so there’s always an excuse to celebrate it in Northern Ireland. This year, however, the gastro celebrations have amped up even higher
his is an exciting time for one of the worlds’ best kept foodie destination secrets, Northern Ireland. Along with its rich food heritage and premium quality products, it has talented chefs and restaurants continuing to gain accolades. Its artisan food producers are also shining on the world stage. Northern Ireland’s Year of Food and Drink 2016, with its 366 days of foodie experiences, highlights all the fantastic produce on offer. It celebrates everything delicious about the area – from its wild coasts and green spaces, to the people and traditions that make its food heritage so special. The Balmoral Show in May was a highlight in the event calendar. Fusing agriculture and local produce, it showcases the intrinsic link between the two. The edible garden provided inspiration for growing your own produce and the best local livestock competitions highlighted the variety and quality of pigs, cattle, lambs and poultry. Visitors could also indulge in local fare inside the Food Pavilion – home to over 90 regional produce stands.
By early summer (June) the focus had shifted to one of Northern Ireland’s most famous exports; potatoes. The Comber Potato Festival in County Down is a fun, family-friendly event featuring artisan stalls, vintage tractor displays and potato tasting. The annual Salmon & Whiskey Festival in Bushmills also took place in June, with a full programme that included culinary displays, market stalls, talks and tours and a rousing fireworks finale. And the BBC Good Food Show made its Northern Ireland debut in October with James Martin, John Torode and Paul Rankin joining in the fun. While next year will continue to bring great success for food and drink in Northern Ireland, this year will end on a high with a celebration of Northern Ireland’s food. Visit the vibrant Christmas Market in the grounds of Belfast City Hall (19 Nov-22 Dec). There are 10 new stalls, highlighting the best local food and drink, from cheese and chutneys to fudge and chocolate, plus a selection of crafts and gifts. Look out for Dart Mountain Cheese and Flossie’s Fudge among many others.
Did you know? Northern Ireland exports over 60% of its produce to over 80 countries worldwide – food and drink is its biggest and most successful industry and accounts for up to 60,000 jobs. It has two Michelin-starred restaurants, Ox and Deanes Eipic, and Wine & Brine has just been awarded a Bib Gourmand. Three indigenous foods – Lough Neagh eels, Armagh Bramley apples and Comber early potatoes – now have PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. Last year, 99 Northern Ireland food and drink companies won 349 gold stars in the Great Taste Awards – more than any other region of the UK.
For more information, visit ireland.com
The perfect gift for Christmas Give the ultimate gift for a food lover this Christmas with a BBC Good Food Show gift voucher. From live entertainment with top chefs and experts to inspirational interviews, exciting new flavours and the chance to shop to their heartâ€™s content, it really is a delicious day out.
Choose a BBC Good Food Show near you Harrogate | Birmingham | Hampton Court Palace Belfast | Glasgow | London
Find out more at bbcgoodfoodshow.com Terms and conditions apply.
Make a recipe kit Create a personalised present for a foodie friend – pack a pretty box or jar with all the ingredients they need for a special recipe recipes SOPHIE GODWIN and MIRIAM NICE photographs WILL HEAP
Sourdough starter kit 500g bag organic rye lour 1-litre glass Kilner jar muslin wooden spoon To use the kit Write the instructions, below, on the gift tag (or print out the handy PDF on our website).
1 Put 200g flour in the Kilner jar with 200ml cool water. Mix well, then cover with the muslin, leaving the lid off. Leave the mixture somewhere warm but away from direct sunlight for 2-3 days until it
Whisky & pink peppercorn marmalade kit 500g mix of oranges, clementines and lemons 1kg demerara sugar small pot of pink peppercorns small bottle of whisky Optional extras jam pan muslin large wooden spoon small jars and labels (makes about 1kg jam) To use the kit Write the instructions, below, on the gift tag (or print out the handy PDF on our website).
1 Halve the fruits and squeeze the juices into a large saucepan.
has swelled and is frothing with bubbles. 2 To ‘feed’ the starter, throw half of it away, then top up with 100g flour and 100ml cool water. Mix well and leave for two to three days more. Once the starter is puffy and foamy again, it is ready to use. 3 When making sourdough bread, use as much of the starter as your recipe calls for, then keep it in the fridge, ‘feeding’ it 100g flour and 100ml cool water every week. Your starter will potentially last for years – it’s the gift that keeps on giving!
Remove all the peel and set aside. Put the flesh in the pan with 1 litre water and boil for 15 mins. Push through a sieve lined with muslin and return the liquid to the pan. 2 Shred the peel and tip into a heatproof bowl. Add enough water to just cover and microwave for 3-4 mins until soft. Add the peel to the pan, then add the sugar. Boil for 35-45 mins until the marmalade has reached setting point (keep an eye on it so it doesn’t bubble over). 3 Remove from the heat and add 1 tsp pink peppercorns. Allow the mixture to cool a little, then stir in 50ml whisky. Ladle into sterilised jars and seal. Will keep for up to one year. DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 121
Gravadlax kit 1 orange 1 dill plant small pot of black peppercorns 125g box of sea salt 500g bag of demerara sugar small pot of coriander seeds small pot of caraway seeds a ishmonger gift voucher (to buy a 500g boneless piece of salmon) pestle and mortar (optional) To use the kit Write the instructions, right, on the gift tag (or print out the handy PDF on our website).
Bespoke martini kit 700ml bottle rye vodka small pot of juniper berries small pot of green cardamom pods small pot of dried rose petals small pot of coriander seeds 1 lemon 1 coffee ilter paper bottle of vermouth small jar of green olives Optional extras 2 martini glasses shot measure tall glass cocktail stirrer cocktail strainer To use the kit Write the instructions, right, on the gift tag (or print out the handy PDF on our website).
1 To make the cure for your gravadlax, zest the orange and roughly chop a large bunch of dill. Using a pestle and mortar, grind 1/2 tbsp peppercorns, then stir in 50g sea salt, 75g sugar, 1 tsp each coriander seeds and caraway seeds, and the zest. 2 Put half the dill on a large piece of cling film and place your salmon on top. Cover with all the cure and the remaining dill, then wrap tightly. Place in a dish with something heavy on top to weigh it down. 3 Leave to cure for 24-48 hrs, turning the salmon once, then rinse well and pat dry before serving. Will keep in the fridge for up to three days.
1 Open the bottle of vodka and add 2 tbsp juniper berries, 6 cardamom pods, a pinch of dried rose petals, 1 tsp coriander seeds and a strip of lemon peel. Put the lid back on and leave in a cool dark place for 24 hrs. 2 Strain the infused mixture through the coffee filter paper into a jug, then pour back into the bottle to store. 3 To make a martini, chill 2 martini glasses in the fridge for 30 mins. Put 50ml vermouth in a tall glass, add 150ml infused vodka and a large handful of ice. Stir well until the outside of the glass feels cold, then strain into the chilled glasses. Garnish with an olive.
Find ready-to-print tags for all the gift boxes at bbcgoodfood.com
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HOW GOURMET IS YOUR CAT?
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To find out more about Purina Gourmet and win, visit bbcgoodfood.com/purina-gourmet
Nothing but the best for your cat. Serve him nature’s finest ingredients in a delicate broth and spoil his senses.
Pork Wellington This month BBC MasterChef judge John Torode takes classic beef Wellington and gives it a twist by using illet of pork
John’s pork Wellington SERVES 6 8 PREP 45 mins plus chilling COOK 1 hr A CHALLENGE
Good Food contributing editor John Torode, a chef, food writer and TV presenter, has been a judge on MasterChef for 11 years. Each month he reinvents one of the most popular recipes from our website. @JohnTorode1
am a sucker for pastry, and when I decided to give beef Wellington a makeover, I had many an idea going through my head. Should I stay classic or return to the Eighties, when individual beef Wellingtons were all the rage? Or should I consider a different meat? Well, that was how I started, and this is how it ended. My pork Wellington is like a grown-up, posh and delicious sausage roll. It works well for a special dinner or as a good Sunday roast alternative. All the preparation can be done the day before, leaving you to simply slide the Wellington into the oven. It also has the benefit of being easier to cook than beef – you don’t have that worry about whether it will be rare enough. Classic vegetables – carrots, mash potatoes and lots of green beans – work well alongside. However, I prefer a quick and simple mustard sauce instead of traditional gravy. And if you have any Wellington left over, it also tastes fabulous eaten cold the next day.
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olive oil, for frying 2 large pork illets (approx 800g), trimmed and the ends removed 1 shallot, inely chopped 50g butter 150g wild mushrooms (such as chanterelles), inely chopped handful sage, picked and chopped handful parsley, chopped good handful chives, snipped 100g spinach 10 slices prosciutto 50g good-quality chicken liver pâté For the pastry 500g pack puff pastry plain lour, for dusting 2 egg yolks, beaten with 1 tsp water For the mustard sauce 300ml pot double cream 3 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 Heat a pan with a little oil to a very high heat and season the pork fillets well all over. Put 1 fillet in the pan and fry for 2 mins to give it a little colour all over. Remove and repeat with the other fillet, then leave both to rest and cool. 2 Fry the shallot in the butter in the same pan for 2 mins, then add the mushrooms and cook until both are soft. Add the herbs and cook for 1 min. Season, tip 1/3 of the mixture into one bowl (reserved for the sauce) and the rest into another, and set aside to cool. Don’t wash the pan. 3 Meanwhile, heat a little oil in another large pan, add the spinach and cook briefly until wilted. Set aside until cool enough to squeeze out all the excess moisture, then chop. Tip the spinach into the first pan and use it to wipe up all the seasoning and juices. 4 Overlap two pieces of cling film over a large chopping board. Lay the slices of prosciutto on the cling film in two rows, slightly overlapping. Carefully spread
the pâté mixture over the prosciutto, then sit the pork fillets on top. Pack the mushrooms in the gaps, then top with the spinach. Use the cling film to draw the prosciutto around the fillet mixture, then roll it into a sausage shape, twisting the ends of cling film to tighten it as you go. Chill while you roll out the pastry. 5 Dust the work surface with a little flour. Roll out a third of the pastry to an 18 x 30cm strip about 2mm thick and place on a non-stick baking sheet. Roll out the remainder of the pastry to about 28 x 36cm, also 2mm thick. Unroll the fillet from the cling film and sit it in the centre of the smaller strip of pastry. Brush the pastry’s edges with the yolk mixture, as well as the top and sides of the wrapped fillet. Using a rolling pin, lift and drape the larger piece of pastry over the fillet, pressing well into the sides. Trim the joins to about a 4cm rim. Seal the rim with the edge of a spoon handle. Glaze all over with more egg yolk and, if you like, mark the Wellington using the back of a knife, taking care not to cut into the pastry. Chill for at least 30 mins or up to 24 hrs. 6 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Brush the Wellington with a little more egg yolk and cook for 35-40 mins until golden – the pork will be just pink in the middle. Allow to stand for 10 mins before serving in thick slices. 7 To make the sauce, bring the cream to the boil, add the mustard and reserved mushroom mixture, and remove from the heat. Season and stir well before serving. PER SERVING (8) 709 kcals • fat 53g • saturates 27g • carbs 22g • sugars 2g • ibre 2g • protein 33g • salt 2.2g
If you’ve cooked the beef Wellington on our website (bbcgoodfood.com/ gordons-beef-wellington), why not try John’s new version and let us know which you prefer. Drop us a line at email@example.com.
Food styling SAL HENLEY Styling JENNIFER KAY
photograph STUART OVENDEN
cover recipe DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 125
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MARINA O’LOUGHLIN EATS
Old Town, Kitzbühel
Austrian Tyrol On top of the world, our columnist discovers haute cuisine, farmhouse kitchens and an abundance of local produce in the majestic Alps V
Photograph INGOLF POMPE ROBERT HARDING
Winter getaways to Canterbury, the Cotswolds, Argyll and Liverpool
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 129
herself, who, in addition to running the place in her beautiful dirndl outfits, is also president of the Austrian Sommeliers Association. Her atmospheric tasting cellar is home to more than 6,000 vinous treasures, from a Madeira dating from 1795 to an Austrian pink fizz, S’Uhudler, that tastes bizarrely like wild strawberries.
Local venison and cheese dumplings Dinner, served in the wood-panelled dining room, all traditional wood-burning stove and cute little carved chairs, delivers more amazement. Annemarie’s daughter, Katharina, and partner, Gerald Weiss, are in the kitchen; this family affair belies the sophistication of what turns up during our no-choice dinner. From almost translucent slices of local venison, with rowan berry and herbed cream (all foraged from nearby forests) to the berkäse, modestly named ‘mountain cheese’ with the fine personality of a Beaufort or Comté, it’s wave after wave of pleasure. I adore cheese dumplings, bathed in brown butter and scattered with colourful,
Marina O’Loughlin is one of the UK’s most knowledgeable food writers, and undercover restaurant reviewer for BBC Good Food and The Guardian Weekend. An intrepid culinary traveller, she researches the most exciting places to visit at each destination, so you’ll know exactly where and what to eat when you get there. For more from Marina, visit bbcgoodfood.com. @marinaoloughlin @marinagpoloughlin
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edible blooms, and the local mountain pork from Brixentaler, a majestic animal, its cheek and fillet served with crisped polenta in a wine-rich sauce. Matched wines are as spectacular as the views. After a breakfast of homemade bread, smoky ham and preserves, made from mountain berries, we head off down the mountain to the pretty little ski town of Kirchberg in Tirol and the Hotel Rosengarten (rosengarten-taxacher.com), a study in restrained chic after our Alpine wonderland. Owner and hugely garlanded chef Simon Taxacher took over part of his parents’ hotel and transformed it from a traditional inn to this calm beauty with its two restaurants, luxurious rooms and views over the emerald hills. It’s the perfect base for exploring our surroundings, each tiny village with its own gasthaus or wirt (tavern or pub). The Tyrolean food is magnificently single-minded: hearty, rib-sticking and – frequently, as in the case of speckknödel (bacon dumplings) – an alluring celebration of stodge. Yes, there’s a time and a place for stodge, and thousands of feet above sea level is one of them. It’s visiting the 250-year-old farmhouse Gasthof Ruetzenhof (ruetzenhof.at) where we first realise that people here are happy to wear pretty much full national dress without a shade of irony. I find
Photographs CHRISTINE WAWRA SCHAPOWALOW 4CORNERS, DAVID THOMAS, ALAMY
p above the clouds, dominated by the gasp-inducing peak of Wilder Kaiser, Angerer Alm (angereralm.at), the first stop on our adventure in the Austrian Tyrol, is – a word I rarely use – unique. Owner Annemarie Foidl fell in love with this enchanting 200-year-old wooden Alpine ‘hut’ aged just 19, and has been dedicated to it ever since. But even visitors have to be dedicated: for one thing, it’s only reachable by ‘gondola’ cable car (there is a road, but it’s private and snowed under in winter). For another, if you turn up expecting international luxury, you’re likely to be somewhat taken aback – it hasn’t evolved that much over the years. There’s no point expecting room service or spas. In fact, there’s no point even expecting an en suite. But who cares when the place casts a powerful spell? Never mind the view, which takes the breath away from even the most jaded of travellers – there’s a thunderstorm over the Kitzbüheler Horn while we’re there and I can’t even begin to describe the drama. There’s Annemarie
eat like a local
‘The clean, sweet air and life-enhancing views of the area have an unexpected effect on me’
Chocolate tart with wild cherries at Angerer Alm
Wagyu beef with sorrel & Jerusalem artichoke at Restaurant Simon Taxacher
Annemarie Foidl in Angerer Alm’s wine cellar
myself pining for a pair of lederhosen while eating chewy black bread thick with butter topped with smoky speck followed by our first schnitzel of the trip: glorious. The food may be simple, but most of the produce comes from their own farm – you can taste the integrity. After a long walk round precipitous, staggeringly beautiful mountain trails at what seems like the top of the world, our new chum, Patrizia – who doubles as a ski instructor, guide and also works in the Rosengarten’s spa – takes us to Gasthof Melkalm Kitzbühel (gasthof-melkalm.at), in almost weep-makingly beautiful surroundings. Is it the astonishing location that adds extra savour to our dense speckknödel on their bed of
sauerkraut and my vast rösti heaped with wild mushrooms? Or my first experience of strange, herbal fizzy drink Almdudler? I don’t know, but I love them all.
Tyrolean food reimagined Very, very different is Restaurant Simon Taxacher (restaurant.rosengartentaxacher.com). In this luxuriously paredback room we have a thrill ride equal to any temple of haute cuisine anywhere. From the champagne trolley with its fresh oysters, to the flurry of tiny ‘texture’ dishes that bookend the meal, Taxacher’s skill and invention are dizzying. He uses Tyrolean traditions and produce as the launching point for bravura creativity. The constituents of dumpling reinvented
as something ethereal and witty: a light-as-air cracker topped with shards of speck. Each dish will deliver a surprise or three – tiny, impossibly delicate pasta parcels of navettes with ‘asparagus lettuce’, lardo & apricot; pale ale with sultry local eel & apple; a perfect disc of wobbly bone marrow topped with caviar accompanying folds of wagyu beef scattered with a powder of its own frozen fat; a sprig of succulent water herb or fragrance of pine or rare Japanese berry. Bread looks like conventional sourdough, but is made from fermented potato scented with foraged mountain oregano. Three hours pass in a blur of discovery, but despite the obvious technique and exploration of culinary DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 131
eat like a local
boundaries, dishes never lose sight of the need to be delicious – even a gilded chocolate petit four spiked with crispy chicken skin. The whole thing is supremely elegant, innovative and accomplished. Michelin stopped its stars for Austria outside the main cities in 2009. Simon Taxacher formerly had two, every scintilla of which was richly deserved. He’s unbowed by the loss, his four ‘toques’ from Gault Millau proudly displayed in the kitchen. The Rosengarten may be sophisticated, but it’s still very much a family affair: his parents and sister all work in the hotel, and Taxacher’s partner, the charming Sandra Kobald, is the ultimate hostess.
Kirchberg in Tirol
Apple strudel and beer cheese
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Kaiserschmarrn: a thick pancake with icing sugar
‘I guess the rest of the guests will ski off all the calories, but not us. We shamefacedly slope back to the cable car’ a universe of sausages and cured meats (our suitcases are predictably fragrant as a result). We have enormous fun jumping in the cable car to the legendary Hochkitzbühel bei Tomschy (beitomschy.at) with its awe-inspiring panoramic terrace, where we have the area’s beloved kaiserschmarrn: a thick, chopped-up pancake dredged with icing sugar and served with stewed plums. I guess the rest of the guests will be skiing off all the calories, but not us: we shamefacedly slope back to the cable car that’s virtually attached to the restaurant. Our final meal is back at the Rosengarten, for its bistro Rosengarten Light. It may be less formal and starry, but the food is every bit as exquisite – even kalbsrahmbeuschel mit grießknödel, which turns out to be veal lungs and heart with a semolina dumpling in rich, riesling-spiked cream sauce. It’s an extraordinary feat to make a delicate grammelschmalz – rendered pork fat studded with crisp shards of crackling
– but they manage it, and it’s gorgeous. Their schnitzel is featherdown-light and the wines with each course as sprightly as a ski-jumper. Despite the dumplings, despite virtually bathing in luscious Austrian wines, despite a determination to eat all the berkäse, the clean, sweet air and life-enhancing views of the area have an unexpected effect on me. Without even hitting any of the region’s many spas, this part of the Austrian Tyrol has made me feel thoroughly spring-cleaned. Who needs skis to thrill to this ravishing part of the world? All you need is an appetite.
How to do it Marina stayed at Angerer Alm in St Johann in Tirol (angereralm.at) and Hotel Rosengarten in Kirchberg (rosengarten-taxacher.com/en).
Photographs DAVID THOMAS, GETTY
Outside the blindingly snow-white winter season, everything round here is vivid green, every cuckoo-clock house foaming with flowers, every slope of mountain populated with contented-looking cows tinkling their bells. It’s little wonder the dairy produce is so exquisite: each farm makes its own version of berkäse, and a trip to dramatically located Kasplatzl (kasplatzl.at), a working farm open to anyone, is a blast, not least for our introduction to its vaulted cheese room, honking deliciously from its many cheeses in varying stages of ageing. On certain days, they cook vast vats of käsespätzle (like a gooey mac & cheese made with tiny dumplings) and barbecued sausages. I fall in love with their ambrosial blueberry mustard. The dairy produce makes for wonderful ice cream too – deliciously counterintuitive in a part of the world known for its snow. Back in town, we fall into a huge apple strudel blowsy with thick cream, and a vast sundae with a gravy boat of hot bilberries at local favourite Konditorei Lorenzoni (cafe-lorenzoni.at). I have a curious habit of going to ski destinations without the slightest intention of putting on skis. The surroundings are so breathtaking, the produce so fresh and delicious, the food so intensely comforting, why should skiers get all the fun? Kitzbühel is the chic-est skiing destination round these parts, and I love sitting on the terrace of the classic Huber Bräu (huberbraeu.at) in the candycoloured main street with its shops of designer trachten (national costume), eating roast potatoes rich with black pudding, and ‘beer cheese’, watching the jet-setting world go by. We make a pilgrimage to butcher and deli Metzgerei Huber (huber-metzger.at), with its gleaming counters groaning with
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Cannot be used in conjunction with any other Donald Russell offer. Offer expires 31 January 2017. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of its special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
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THREE QUICK TRIPS
Winter weekends away Great food, cosy interiors, roaring ires and comfy beds make these pubs and restaurants with rooms an irresistible destination for a short break Best for…
HISTORIC SETTING, LOCAL DRINKS Corner House, Canterbury, Kent
farms and breweries, with leading local gin, vodka, cider, beer and wine makers all impressively well represented. Sharing plates (£17) are the thing here, including Romney Marsh shoulder of lamb, and an indulgent starter board of pork scratchings, slivers of sausage roll, creamy chicken liver parfait and homemade terrines (£6pp). Delicate suet puddings, including Stour Valley rabbit, are a winter must-eat, as is the homemade bread ice cream: comfort food par excellence. Where to eat & drink nearby The Goods Shed (thegoodsshed. co.uk), a railway-adjacent food
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market-cum-butchers-andbakers, has standout spiced chutneys, Kentish lamb and cider, plus festive lunch/dinner in a shabby-chic café setting. Eat superb pulled pork rolls at Pork & Co (porkandco.co.uk), hipster annex to landmark British bistro Deeson’s (deesonsrestaurant.co.uk). Just around the corner, the ornate gates of Canterbury Cathedral await, with the pretty canals but minutes away. How to do it Double rooms from £69 per night; £10pp extra for a hearty English breakfast (cornerhouserestaurants.co.uk). Sarah Barrell
COMFORT FOOD & LAID-BACK CHARM The Howard Arms, Ilmington, Warwickshire Take a stroll around this smart, sleepy village, with pretty restored stone cottages, 11thcentury church, the delightful post office and stores, and two pubs. Then relax: you’re in Ilmington and there isn’t much else to do. Unlike some of the Cotswolds’ newly refurbished pubs, all pale wood and heritage green paint, The Howard Arms is delightfully dark and cosy. There’s an open fire, the hearth often home to a dozing dog, plus battered leather armchairs, dark wooden furniture and lots of paintings depicting country pursuits. The food also has comfort in mind, with classic starters such as prawn cocktail and potted crab & crayfish (from
Photographs GETTY, ALAMY, ALAN DONALDSON
When it comes to British food to warm the heart and soul, savvy foodies step just beyond Canterbury’s old city walls to a 16th-century pub that was once Charles Dickens’ stomping ground. Lately revamped by the father-son team from the award-winning Corner House in nearby Minster, this delightfully crooked, Grade-II-listed coach house now has three smart rooms, where centuriesold wood floors and beams contrast with modish Scandinavian greys and blues, and industrial light fittings. Each has lavishly proportioned bathrooms, most notably the attic room – the best bet for light sleepers, set furthest from the ring road below (all rooms are double glazed). Downstairs are great-value menus drawn from Kentish
eat like a local
A FESTIVE, FOODIE SCOTTISH ESCAPE The Kilberry Inn, Kilberry, Argyll
£6.50), lamb kofta starter and Moroccan spiced tagine main adding a hint of spice for the more adventurous (from £9.50). There’s sticky toffee pudding, of course (from £6.50), and British cheeses are served with celery, chutney and quince (from £6).
In the eight bedrooms, wooden beams, crisp linen, warm fabrics, interesting books and new bathrooms make for a comfortable and relatively quiet stay – avoid the room directly above the bar unless you plan to be the last one up. Breakfast is leisurely and generous: porridge with Cotswold honey, boiled eggs with soldiers and a full English on offer. Where to eat & drink nearby Nearby Mabels Farm sells fresh milk and eggs (mabelsfarm. co.uk); for seasonal local beer, visit North Cotswold Brewery (northcotswoldbrewery); and go to Chipping Campden for the excellent The Chef’s Dozen restaurant (thechefsdozen.co.uk). How to do it Rooms from £110-£130, based on two sharing, including three-course breakfast (howardarms.com). Christine Hayes
The journey along the coastline of Scotland’s Knapdale peninsula (with views of Jura if you’re lucky) is part of the fun of a trip to Kilberry – as is the surprise when you arrive. This single-storey, whitewashed inn with its red tin roof looks more like a fisherman’s cottage than a gourmet bolthole. But don’t be deceived: this is just the snug bar-restaurant, and tucked behind it are five elegant rooms, each named after a local island. The coast dictates much of what chef Clare Johnson offers in the restaurant: queenie scallops from nearby Loch Fyne (£9), Gigha halibut and locally caught mussels (mains from £15). The inn is famed too for its Tayvallich Estate lamb tagine and top-notch desserts (from £5): try the treacle tart with homemade lemon ice cream. But it’s not just the food that satisfies here: Clare’s partner David Wilson is wonderfully welcoming as front of house, and only too happy to fix you a negroni or acquaint you with
the local whiskies. The perfect antidote to the frenetic Christmas season. Where to eat & drink nearby Head to Tarbert’s Starfish Seafood Restaurant (starfish tarbert.com), or join whisky tours at the Glen Scotia (tours from £5; glenscotia.com) and Springbank (tours from £7; springbankwhisky.com) distilleries in Campbeltown. How to do it Rooms from £215, including dinner and breakfast for two. Open Friday/Saturday only in December (kilberryinn.com). Clare Hargreaves
Visit bbcgoodfood.com/feature/travel for more laid-back getaways in Cornwall, Cheshire and Suffolk
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 135
Liverpool The city’s food scene has exploded in recent years, from Catalan classics and ine dining to seriously boss burgers words TONY NAYLOR
Free State Kitchen
Paul Askew’s dishes – broadly modern British, underpinned by rigorous classical technique – continue to offer high levels of refined satisfaction. Sitting in this glamorous dining room, eating, say, a duck egg salad punched-up with black truffle & black pudding, or hogget skilfully rendered in multiple variations, it’s easy to enjoy this pampering. Go on, spoil yourself. Four-course dinner with aperitif, £69. theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk SO
Free State knocks out, as locals might put it, seriously boss burgers. The setting, a Georgian building that opens out onto a lovely ivy-clad courtyard garden, makes a pleasant change from all those dark, grungy dens where you might usually eat ‘dude food’. But the menu – hot wings, dogs, clam chowder, mac ’n’ cheese – very much fits the address: 1 Maryland Street. The cheeseburger is a triumph. Mains from £6.75. freestatekitchen.co.uk CD, KF
This Bold Street venue serves Levantine small plates in a setting of glazed-brick walls, Aperol Spritz cocktails and dresseddown staff. Paired with harissa-spiked houmous and a radish-flecked tabbouleh, its falafels are verdant roundels of fragrant, herb-packed joy. Lamb kofta with smoked paprika tahini also impresses, as do specials such as pickled squash with Savoy cabbage, dukkah & labneh. Plates from £5.50. maray.co.uk CD, SO
Obsessive about Spanish – and particularly Catalan – food, Peter Kinsella has created a deli/bar/restaurant where everything sings with flavour, from a butifarra sausage sandwich to the secreto Iberico, a densely piggy shoulder cut from those famous acorn-fed hogs. Deep-fried goat’s cheese Monte Enebro with orange blossom honey, and the mojama (air-dried tuna from southern Spain) are all excellent. Tapas from £4.25. lunya.co.uk CD, SO, KF
With its music venue and quirky beer garden, this is firmly on the radar of the cool kids. However, its bar/restaurant is surprisingly grown-up. A blackboard list of 17 wines by the glass is indicative of a seriousness in chef Dan Heffy’s creative small plates. The marinated, salt-crusted beef with houmous, yogurt & herb oil stands out on a menu that ranges from ox cheek cottage pie to a heritage tomato panzanella. Plates from £6. buyers-club.co.uk CD, SO
This warehouse space majors on rustic small plates of Spanish and East Asian origin. That chef Tom Gill’s kitchen grows some of its own ingredients in a natty urban garden (squash, cavolo nero, rhubarb), tells you a lot. Be it a buttery, garlicky hillock of sautéed potatoes and wild mushrooms, or melting soy, chilli & cumin marinated lamb ribs, this gutsy food will bring a glow to your heart. Plates from £3.75. pen-factory.co.uk CD, CE
This neat, modest Japanese restaurant is a favourite with the city’s foodies. This is food of rare freshness, clarity and depth of flavour. Staples such as panko-crumbed tonkatsu pork, karaage fried chicken and udon noodle soups take on a renewed vigour, while the lunchtime bento boxes (try the crisp-skinned pan-fried sea bass) are lifted by vibrant pickles and sauces. Its bright, citrusy ponzu is a highlight. Meals from £8.95. etsu-restaurant.co.uk CE, CD
Natalie Haywood’s Bold Street HQ (part of her growing Leaf empire) continues to pack in the punters thanks to its honest, affordable grub and its lively vibe (it is an art/music hub as much as an all-day eaterie). The menu runs from a chicken pearl barley broth or jazzed-up falafel flatbreads, to specials such as confit duck leg with lentils and an apple & cinnamon sauce. Mains from £7.95. thisisleaf.co.uk CE, CD
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Fonseca’s Candice Fonseca’s Stanley Street kitchen continues to create a daily blackboard menu of terrific, globetrotting dishes. Grab a comfy booth and tuck into harissa-braised Herdwick lamb shoulder with chickpeas & roast vegetable couscous or a Thai sweet potato curry with sesame lime noodles. Mains from £9.75. delifonseca.co.uk CD, CE
Bacaro Just as the decor is an attractive mishmash – colourful Med tiles, artfully distressed surfaces – so too Bacaro’s menu of broadly Italian small plates happily folds in British and Spanish influences. Try roast cod with aubergine purée, pepperonata & pine nuts; a chistorra, egg & courgette pizzette; or black pudding with sautéed chicken livers & Marsala. Dishes from £3.95. salthousebacaro.co.uk CD Tony Naylor is an authority on where to eat and drink in the north-west of England. Turn to p35 to read his review of The Refuge in Manchester @naylor_tony
SUITABLE FOR CD casual dining CE cheap eat KF kid friendly SO special occasion
Photographs FRANCO COGOLI SIME 4CORNERS
The Art School
eat like a local
Camp and Furnace
Free State Kitchen
5 foodie places Jenever This Georgian townhouse serves 70 varieties of gin and its Dutch antecedent, jenever (including Liverpool Organic Gin). Gin tastings are available (from £20). jenever.co.uk Camp and Furnace Check out Nightgarden, a new audio-visual Friday night of art, music and food at this Baltic Triangle event space. Guest chefs will include regional faces such as Robert Owen Brown and Mary-Ellen McTague. campandfurnace.com
Liverpool Cheese Company Head to Woolton Village to try any of around 200 artisan cheeses, from Stinking Bishop to Perl Las. liverpoolcheesecompany.co.uk Black Lodge This experimental brewery-tap creates exciting, left- ield beers, while its charcuterie boards showcase Britain’s best bresaola and salami-slingers. blacklodgebrewing.co.uk
Fraiche If you can get into Marc Wilkinson’s Michelinstarred Wirral restaurant, you can expect a journey to the dazzling edges of gastrocreativity. Dinner £85. restaurantfraiche.com
Next month Insider guide to Cardiff
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e n o y r e for ev Christmas is a time to indulge in the finer things, so whatever your allergy or intolerance, surrender to all things sweet t’s the time of year when it becomes unthinkable for a cup of tea not to be accompanied by a mince pie, or for any meal not to conclude with a luxuriously decadent pudding. And just because you or your guests can’t eat certain things, that doesn’t mean you should miss out on all the fun! Thanks to Sainsbury’s newly revamped Deliciously FreeFrom range, you don’t have to. Sainsbury’s has been striving to make things easier for those with allergies or intolerances since 2002, and this year marks the latest chapter in the country’s oldest own brand FreeFrom range. By responsibly sourcing and working with carefully selected suppliers, Sainsbury’s has brought you a whole new range of goodies that are perfect for the festive season. Take these wheat and gluten-free Deliciously FreeFrom Cornflake Mini-Bites, or the wheat, gluten and milk-free Deliciously FreeFrom Mince Pies and Iced Mince Pies, perfect for a Christmassy coffee morning. Or treat the whole family to a scrumptious wheat, gluten, nut and milk-free Chocolate Wreath Cake. If you want to concoct your own festive delight, try this simple no-bake cheesecake. Deliciously FreeFrom Chocolate and Stem Ginger Cookies make a wheat and glutenfree base, while the creamy topping contrasts beautifully with the fruity zing of raspberry and clementine.
chocolate wreath cake
Festive no-bake cheesecake SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus 7 hrs chilling COOK 20 mins EASY
Please ensure all the ingredients used are free of all relevant allergens.
200g FreeFrom Chocolate Stem Ginger Cookies 75g unsalted butter, melted and cooled 150g cranberries, fresh or frozen 75g golden caster sugar 2 clementines, zested and juiced 1 /4 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp cornflour 500g full-fat cream cheese 85g icing sugar 1 /2 tsp vanilla 300ml double cream
1 Line the base of a 23cm loose-bottomed
Festive no-bake cheesecake
If made as per the recipe adjacent.
cake tin with baking parchment. Blitz the cookies in a food processor to a fine crumb. Transfer to a bowl and mix with the butter to completely coat the crumbs. Press into the base of the cake tin and chill until firm, about 1 hr. 2 Meanwhile, put the cranberries, sugar, clementine zest and juice and ground ginger in a small saucepan. Simmer for 10 mins until the fruit has broken down slightly. Dissolve the cornflour in 1 tbsp of water and add to the pan along with a further 75ml water. Simmer for another few mins until jammy, then leave to cool completely. 3 Beat the cream cheese with the clementine zest, icing sugar and vanilla until just combined. Add the cream and whip until thick. 4 Spread half the cream cheese mixture over the cookie base and dot over half the cranberry jam. Swirl with a teaspoon to ripple through. Repeat with the remaining cream cheese and cranberry, then refrigerate for 6 hrs or overnight until set. Remove from the tin and serve.
Expert advice from Barney Desmazery, including a Christmas lunch portion planner and the perfect tin for your mince pies
Barney, our Food editorat-large, has worked as a chef internationally and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery
Port for red wine Both are made from grapes, but port is forti ied with brandy, which stops the sugar fermenting into alcohol, leaving port with a much higher sugar content. The high alcohol content and sweetness means you wouldn’t swap port for red wine at the table, but it is useful for adding richness to cranberry sauce and marinades for game such as venison, achieving sweet-salty combinations with steak and blue cheese, or to replace wine in stews. Use it in moderation – a third port to wine is best, so simply make up the rest of the liquid with stock to ensure the dish isn’t too sweet. You can also use port to poach pears, igs or prunes, pair with chocolate or feed your Christmas cake.
ASK THE EXPERT
What’s the difference between ham and gammon?
Fran Warde, author of Ginger Pig Meat Book and Ginger Pig Farmhouse Cookbook (£25 each, Mitchell Beazley), says: ‘Gammon is a leg cut of pork that has been cured. It is sold raw and needs to be cooked. Once it is cooked, it becomes a ham (though is sometimes still referred to as gammon).’ Traditionally gammons were cured for longer and were saltier than they are now, so recipes would state that they needed soaking or blanching before
cooking. That’s not really necessary anymore, but if you’re unsure whether to do this or not – ask your butcher. The usual way to cook a gammon is to boil it in a large pan of water, or cover and slow-roast it. Once cooked, you can remove a layer of fat and roast the ham with a sticky glaze. You can ind a video on glazing ham at bbcgoodfood.com. Fran Warde is the cook school director at Borough Kitchen in London (boroughkitchen.com @BoroughKitchen).
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Baumkuchen A German version of a spit-roasted cake, dating back to ancient Greece, the name translates as ‘tree cake’ because the cross-section has lots of concentric rings, like a tree. This labour-intensive speciality is traditionally made by building up to 20 or more thin layers of sweetened batter as it cooks over a wood ire. A simpler recipe, cooked under the grill in a traditional tin and coated with chocolate icing, is known as a schichttorte. Find both in German bakeries, such as north London’s Sweet Tree Bakery (sweettreebakery.co.uk) and Falko Konditormeister in Edinburgh and East Lothian (falko.co.uk).
Don’t leave anything to chance with your turkey – we always use a digital thermometer to test that our poultry is cooked properly. The temperature in the thickest part of the thigh should be 75C or over.
YOUR WEEKEND CHALLENGE
Make your own butter This Christmas, gain bragging rights by making your own butter, then use it for brandy butter. The magic of turning cream into butter will be fun for kids over the holidays. It makes a 200g block – all you need is a sturdy one-litre jar and, ideally, a small marble!
Home-churned butter SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins NO COOK V
600ml double cream (the better quality the cream, the better the butter) To make brandy butter 150g icing sugar, sifted 100ml brandy or dark rum
1 Pour the cream into a jar with a clean marble inside. Screw the lid on tightly. Shake the jar continuously for 5 mins (you can take turns shaking with someone else). The movement of the marble acts as a whisk and helps the butter to churn. You can do it without the marble, it just takes longer. At first the cream will thicken to whipped cream, then it will get even thicker. After about 5 mins you will hear sloshing in the jar – give it a few more vigorous shakes, and that’s the butter churned.
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2 Scrape out the contents into a sieve sitting over a bowl – the liquid that drains out is buttermilk (which can be kept and used for baking or in pancakes), and the fatty solid in the sieve is the butter. 3 With clean hands, squeeze the butter between your fingers over the sieve to squeeze out any more buttermilk, while working it into a ball. ‘Wash’ the butter in a bowl of ice-cold water to get rid of any residual buttermilk.
4 To make brandy butter, beat the sugar and a small pinch of salt into the butter, then work in the brandy 1 tbsp at a time. Will keep in the fridge for up to one week. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free BRANDY BUTTER PER SERVING 475 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 25g • carbs 20g • sugars 20g • ibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
Flavoured butters are so popular right now – to make your own, simply season your butter with smoked salt, or add a small handful of chopped herbs for a herby butter.
Your portion planner A guide to buying the right amount of food for Christmas lunch. All weights (except the gravy) are given as raw and unprepared. Quantities are for adults, plus some leftovers! Number of guests
Butter photographs and fruit photographs overleaf CLAIRE WINFIELD Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling WEI TANG Illustrations VICKI TURNER Baumkuchen photograph ASIA WAWRZYNIAK STOCKFOOD Bun tin photograph RACHEL BAYLY
Rum baba A buttery, boozedrenched baba reveals great skill in the kitchen, and one that the chefs at Galvin Restaurants have perfected. We asked Warren Geraghty, the executive chef from Galvin at The Athenaeum, what makes their version so special (galvinrestaurants.com @Galvin_brothers @galvinrestaurants). 1 To make a good dough, you will need a tabletop mixer – this helps to make the dough smooth and elastic. 2 When cooking the babas, we use non-stick baba moulds from Matfer (available from amazon.co.uk) – these help to achieve the right shape and colour. 3 Once the babas are cooked and cooled, we soak them in Lamb’s Navy Rum. We combine it with water and sugar, which gives the baba its taste. We soak them for ive minutes on each side, then leave them to drain on a wire rack – any excess liquid is removed, leaving the baba light and not soggy. • Find our rum baba recipe at bbcgoodfood. com
PICK THE PERFECT…
Bun tin Pigs in blankets
Up to 1kg breast meat off the bone
4kg on the bone
5 6kg on the bone
When I’m making mince pies or Yorkshire puddings, this Circulon 12-cup bun tin (£15, circulon.uk.com) is my one-size-cooks-all. It’s sturdy and made to withstand 260C, so it won’t buckle or smoke when you need to give your Yorkies the blast of heat that in lates them. Plus the non-stick inish means everything slips out easily every time. This is as good as it gets.
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HOW NOT TO EAT…
Party food With the season in full swing, we run through the cardinal sins of eating inger food
Festive afternoon tea John Whaite’s Kitchen, Wrightington, Lancashire (johnwhaiteskitchen.com) Fancy mastering some of those tricky techniques featured in the Great British Bake Off? Head to John Whaite’s modern, well-equipped cookery school in rural Lancashire, where the 2012 Bake Off champion runs a range of courses. The day starts with coffee, pastries and – on the day we visited – mulled cider to get you in the festive spirit. Classes have a maximum of 10 students, making it an intimate experience. John demonstrated each recipe, then it was our turn to cook. During the day we made a gingerbread latte roll, Mont Blancs,
cranberry & orange scones and ig, prune, port & Stilton tartlets. John included lots of techniques, like classic piping, making a Swiss roll, and the art of mirror glazing. He also shared plenty of tips, including that when you add sugar to egg yolks, you must whisk them immediately otherwise the mixture will go stringy. Later, we sat down together for an afternoon tea with prosecco. Cost £180 (including coffee, pastries and afternoon tea, plus all the day’s bakes to take home). Most will freeze, so you can defrost later for that special post-Christmas get-together. Verdict John is a friendly and inspiring teacher. He packs a lot into the day but also makes it fun. Emma Gibson
DO YOU REALLY NEED TO…
Soak cut fruit and veg in lemon water? When it’s peeled and exposed to air, some fruit & veg will turn brown quicker than others. Jerusalem artichokes, for example, turn brown within minutes. If you’re not cooking them immediately, then dipping then in acidulated water (use lemon juice or vinegar) will stop them browning for a while. The idea is to dip them, not soak them, so they don’t become waterlogged. You could also rub the cut surface with a lemon half. With apples and pears, the oxidisation (browning) may not look nice, but if they’re being cooked in a pie or crumble, it makes no difference.
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2 Say it, don’t spray it. Eating and talking is impossible to do politely, so always inish your mouthful before iring up a conversation. 3 Two small bites are better than one. There’s a reason this type of food is called ‘nibbles’. If it looks more than a mouthful, it probably is. No one wants to see your impression of the Cookie Monster.
4 Don’t overload your plate. This isn’t supermarket sweep or crudité jenga. The idea is to graze, not pile high.
Illustrations ANDREW JOYCE
TAKE A COOKERY COURSE
1 Never double dip. Would you kiss a stranger on the lips? Double dipping is the food equivalent. If you’re dipping, say, a carrot stick, we suggest you take one bite, then use the other end of the carrot to re-dip.
FOOD IN FOCUS
Layered lasagne on Instagram Here’s a smartphone photo of Theo Randall’s lasagne on page 148. We asked top food photographer Peter Cassidy (@petecassidyfoto) to explain why this is such a successful amateur picture
The cool, indirect daylight accentuates the natural colours and textures
Everything is in focus so you can clearly see all the detail
Photograph PETER CASSIDY
The bake has been left to cool so everything has had a chance to settle The rustic wood surface makes the dish feel warm and homely (this piece of wood was found in a skip!)
The angle shows off both the crisp topping and de ined layers – if this was shot from above, it would look lat
The colour of the plate complements the rich colour of the food
FINALLY Don’t forget to add tags: #lasagne #italianfood #pasta #bake #bbcgoodfood We love seeing your photos; share them #bbcgoodfood
DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 145
Sumptuous images Lots of space for notes Timely task reminders
Perfect stocking filler
Top-of-the-range toasters Barney Desmazery and features editor Natalie Hardwick rate essential equipment each month. Read more of their reviews online BEST INNOVATION
WHAT SHOULD I BUY? A key factor is the size of your kitchen. Toasters generally come in two- and four-slot versions, but look out for the more slimline models if space is an issue. Our top ive toasters are all £50 and over, but you can buy more basic models with one simple control function for a lot less.
Magimix vision toaster, £145.79, amazon.co.uk Watching your toast brown in front of your eyes is rather thrilling! Novel idea aside, this is one impressive gadget, and created a totally even piece of toast. It’s easy to use and comes with plenty of added functions like a lift lever. An absolute winner.
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
Portrait MYLES NEW
Toast quality We wanted an even brown hue. Toasting functions More important than added functions was a decent timer that’s reliable and easy to navigate. A checking function A lift, preview or pause function that allows you to see the progress of your toast. A sturdy feel Lots of people keep toasters tidied away in cupboards. We looked for toasters that could withstand the odd bump.
Next month Bullet blender
BEST FOR A GIFT
BEST FOR KITCHEN WIZARDS
Russell Hobbs glass line toaster, £59.99, uk.russellhobbs.com Where Magimix lead, others follow. Russell Hobbs’ clear-sided toaster is reasonably priced and looks great. Again, we loved the fact that we could watch our toast brown.
Sage by Heston Blumenthal The Smart Toast, £169.99, sageappliances.co.uk This isn’t cheap, but it has ‘Quick Look’ technology that allows your toast to glide up so you can check its progress without cancelling the cycle.
BEST FOR SMALL HOUSEHOLDS
BEST MID RANGE
Kenwood kMix toaster, £49.98, kenwoodworld.com/uk This two-slice toaster with warming rack is ideal for small families and compact kitchens. An efficient piece of kit, it toasts quickly and evenly. Looks good too.
Hotpoint Ultimate Collection digital toaster £69.99, hotpoint.co.uk With sandwich and bagel functions, warming rack and countdown timer, this is pretty good value for money. It’s a hefty one, so de initely falls into the ‘family toaster’ category.
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Theo’s classic lasagne
STEP BY STEP
Classic lasagne BBC Saturday Kitchen regular Theo Randall visits the Good Food Test Kitchen to cook us his version of an authentic Italian lasagne photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Don’t serve this piping hot – it needs to sit for at least 20 minutes to settle, and is best served just warm. SERVES 6 8 PREP 40 mins COOK 2 hrs 50 mins MORE EFFORT
250g pack fresh lasagne sheets olive oil, for greasing large handful grated parmesan For the ragu 110g unsalted butter 1 celery stick, inely chopped 1 carrot, inely chopped 1 small red onion, inely chopped 25g dried porcini, soaked for 10 mins in hot water, drained and roughly chopped 1 rosemary sprig, leaves picked and chopped 1kg trimmed beef or veal lank, inely chopped (ask your butcher to do this for you) 125ml dry white wine 400g can good-quality chopped tomatoes For the béchamel sauce 1 litre full-fat milk 1 bay leaf 75g unsalted butter 125g ‘00’ pasta lour good grating of nutmeg 100g parmesan, inely grated 2 egg yolks
‘The ragù di manzo (beef ragu) was shown to me by a cook, Maria, in Bologna – where ragu comes from. As it’s a dairy-producing region, they cook with butter as well as olive oil, and traditionally use three types of meat – veal, beef and pork. This is a traditional lasagne, which would be made with love and served at a special occasion – perfect for this time of year!’ Theo opened Theo Randall at the InterContinental (theorandall.com) in 2006, after 17 years at The River Café – where, as head chef and partner, he earned them their irst Michelin star. In 2016 he opened a more casual, rustic venue, Theo’s Simple Italian (theossimpleitalian. co.uk) in Kensington. @TheoRandall
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For the ragu, melt the butter in a large flameproof casserole dish over a medium heat until foaming. Add the celery, carrot, onion, porcini, rosemary and some seasoning, and fry for 5 mins. Season the meat, add to the dish and cook for 5 mins until browned. Pour in the wine, add the tomatoes and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to low, put the lid on the dish and cook for 1hr 30 mins, removing the lid for the final 30 mins so the sauce can reduce. The meat should be tender but not too broken up, and the sauce should be thick. Taste for seasoning. You can cook it for longer if you have time - the flavour will only improve.
For the béchamel sauce, pour the milk into a saucepan with the bay leaf. Bring to a simmer, turn off the heat and set aside. In a heavybased saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat, then whisk in the flour and hot milk. Whisk vigorously until smooth, then cook for 10-15 mins until very thick. Remove the bay leaf and season, grating in nutmeg to taste. Stir in the parmesan and egg yolks, then set aside to cool. Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Working in batches of three, plunge the pasta sheets into a pan of boiling salted water for 20 secs, just to soften, then immediately put in a bowl of ice-cold water. Rub oil onto the base and sides of a large baking dish. Put a layer of pasta on the base, then add a layer of ragu, followed by a layer of béchamel sauce. A good tip, for really defined layers, is to pipe the béchamel sauce over. Repeat this process until you have used all the pasta and ragu, and finish with a layer of béchamel sauce on top. Sprinkle the top with a generous layer of parmesan. Bake in the oven for 40-45 mins or until bubbling and golden brown, then remove from the oven and leave to settle for 10 mins. Cut the lasagne into squares and let it sit for another 10 mins before serving – this keeps the layers defined and helps it cool down more quickly.
GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (8) 729 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 23g • carbs 38g • sugars 9g • ibre 2g • protein 45g • salt 0.6g
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Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Art director Jonathan Whitelocke Senior art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Deputy chief sub-editor Fiona Forman Editorial assistant Anna Lawson PA to Gillian Carter and Al ie Lewis Emma Bales Subscriptions director Helen Ward Subscriptions marketing manager Natalie London Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Senior management accountant Len Bright Management accountant Noma-Afrika Pele Finance director Stephen Lavin Group marketing manager Tom Townsend-Smith Marketing executive Amy Donovan Reader offer manager Liza Evans firstname.lastname@example.org Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade marketing manager Charlotte Watts
bbcgoodfood.com Head of digital content Hannah Williams Editor Roxanne Fisher Features editor Natalie Hardwick Family editor Lily Barclay Writer Sarah Lienard Digital assistant Georgina Kiely Product manager Mariana Bettio Head of digital publishing Alex White
Group advertising director Jason Elson Group head, brand Catherine Nicolson Senior sales, brand Abigail Snelling Sales executive, brand Krystan Irvine Group head, partnerships Josh Jalloul Senior sales, partnerships Emma Newman Senior sales, partnerships Rachel Tredler Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin Group head, digital Anna Priest Group head, digital partnerships Roxane Rix Senior sales, digital Carly Ancell Senior sales, inserts Harry Rowland Classi ied sales exec Tim Bennett Regional business development manager Nicola Rearden
Senior food editor Cassie Best Food editor-at-large Barney Desmazery Assistant food editor Miriam Nice Cookery writer Sophie Godwin Cookery assistant Elena Silcock
River Street Events Managing director Laura Biggs Commercial director Paul Patterson Editorial & production editor Sophie Walker bbcgoodfoodshow@ riverstreetevents.co.uk
INTERNATIONAL Director of international licensing and syndication Tim Hudson Syndication manager Richard Bentley International partners manager Anna Brown Licensing & syndication email@example.com
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Rosie Birkett Joanna Blythman Kathryn Custance (TV) Emma Freud Diana Henry Tom Kerridge Victoria Moore (wine) Marina O’Loughlin (travel) John Torode Kerry Torrens Joe Wicks Thanks this month to Sarah Birks, Tania Cagnoni, Neil Darby, Stephanie de Luca, Katy Gilhooly, Vanessa Grzywacz, Rayne Kirpalani, Dominic Martin, Bhavini Mistry, Sally Williams, Becci Woods, Joanna Zenghelis
BBC BOOKS Acting editorial director Lisa Dyer Editor Charlotte Macdonald cmacdonald@penguin randomhouse.co.uk
MAGAZINE EDITORIAL REVIEW BOARD Donna Clark Acting head of commissioning, factual features & formats BBC One and BBC Two Clare McGinn Head of BBC network radio & production, Bristol Adrian Padmore Assistant commissioner, BBC Daytime & Early Peak Valentina Harris Sue Robinson
BRAND TEAM Publishing director Chris Kerwin
Brand editorial director Christine Hayes
Brand creative director Martin Topping
Lifestyle director Lulu Grimes
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President, BBC Worldwide UK and ANZ Marcus Arthur Director of consumer products and publishing Andrew Moultrie Director of editorial governance Nicholas Brett Publishing co-ordinator Eva Abramik firstname.lastname@example.org
Chairman Stephen Alexander CEO Tom Bureau Group publishing director Al ie Lewis Publishing director Simon Carrington
Head of partnerships, UK publishing Marc Humby
BBC Good Food magazine is owned by BBC Worldwide and published on its behalf by Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT
Get the best from our recipes Our recipes are triple-tested: we cook them all three times to ensure they work for you • Always read the recipe thoroughly before starting, and use standard measuring spoons for accuracy. • Where possible, we use humanely reared British meats, free-range chicken and eggs, and sustainably sourced ish. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, or suggesting how to use leftovers. Helping you to eat well Our nutritional therapist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions.
You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the amount an adult should consume daily: Energy 2,000 cals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note, RIs for saturates, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts). How we label our recipes Our vegetarian (V) or vegan recipes are clearly labelled, but check pack ingredients to ensure they’re suitable. If we say you can freeze a
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recipe (G), freeze for up to three months unless otherwise stated. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot. A low-fat recipe has 12g or less per serving. A recipe is ‘good for you’ if it is low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. A low-calorie recipe has 500 calories or less per main course, 150 calories or less for a dessert. We include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and the vitamins
or nutrients that it contains. • Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen. • Our gluten-free recipes are free from gluten, but this may exclude serving suggestions. For more info, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer individual medical/ nutritional queries.
This month’s recipes
Suitable for freezing
Fish & seafood
Crunchy almond panettone French toast 94 Full English shakshuka 162 Gingerbread pancakes 76 Rudolph pancakes 76 Smoked ham & cheese pancakes 76 Spinach protein pancakes 76
Christmas ceviche with guacamole 98 Cocktail club oyster topping 15 Fresh & smoked salmon rillettes 54 Gravadlax with celeriac & fennel salad 55 Japanese inspired oyster topping 15 Laxpudding 54 Mediterranean chic oyster topping 15 Middle Eastern oyster topping 15 Quick salmon, preserved lemon & olive pilaf 68 Scandi-style oyster topping 15
Cocktails & drinks Eastern breeze 16 Salted caramel pecan sour 16 Spice 75 16 St Nick’s lip 16
Starters, sides, snacks & soups
Meat & game
Buttered Jerusalem artichokes 58 Crab fritters with cheat’s chilli & crab mayonnaise 61 Creamed corn 81 Faux gras with toast & pickles 117 Garlic bread nachos 112 Halloumi fries 14 Harissa & marmalade roasted roots 49 Home-churned butter 142 Pea-camole 110 Peppered mackerel & pink pickled onion salad 44 Rainbow beet slaw with pecans & maple dressing 92 Red jalapeño relish 112 Smashed roasties 49 Smoked cheese in blankets 100 Smoked mash 116 Sticky bourbon BBQ wings with blue cheese dip 101 Stir-fried red cabbage with mulled wine dressing 58 Stuffing sprouts 49 Truffled Jerusalem artichoke soup 61
Beef & swede casserole 71 Cauli-kale sausage bake 67 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE John Torode’s pork Wellington 124 Mel C’s scouse 83 Membrillo, chorizo & cheddar toastie 96 Mustard & clementine glazed ham hocks 94 Pull-apart pork with honey chipotle 112 Theo Randall’s classic lasagne 148 Twice-cooked beef short ribs with dripping carrots & gravy 116
••• •• • •••
Poultry Buffalo chicken 81 Cheat’s Christmas turkey with red cabbage wedges 44 Chicken & mushroom risotto 72 Chipotle chicken wraps 69 Gobble & squeak 78 Roast potato, turkey, sausage & stuffing pie 96 Slow-cooked goose with cranberry salsa 58 Turkey ramen 96 Turkey schnitzel with rocket & pomegranate salad 68
Vegetarian mains Charred Brussels, beetroot & bulghar salad 70 Double bean & roasted pepper chilli 110 Oregano halloumi with orzo salad 66 Roasted aubergine & tomato curry 70 Spiced pea & courgette fritters with minty yogurt dip 102
• •••• ••
Baking & desserts
Apple crumble sundae 73 Black Forest Christmas fool 51 Buttermilk caramel puddings 118 Malted milk melting snowman cake 104 Mincemeat, apple & marzipan wreath 94 Mince tart with crumble topping 62 Mulled wine, cranberry & apple crumble 18 Quick frosted walnuts 62 Raw lemon cheesecake 83 Super-simple fruitcake 85
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72 new triple-tested recipes
Versatile pressure cooker Use less energy and save time with the Instant Pot six-in-one electric pressure cooker
Take the guesswork out of your pressure cooking with the Instant Pot – the No 1 brand of electric pressure cookers in the US, now available in the UK. The six-litre Instant Pot Lux 60 is incredibly versatile: • It’s an automatic pressure cooker • A slow cooker • A rice cooker • A steamer – for healthy cooking • You can use it as a food warmer • You can sauté directly in the cooking pot You don’t have to adjust the heat to regulate pressure, and it doesn’t rattle or hiss. The stainless-steel cooking pot, which is dishwasher safe, can also be used on the hob (except induction) or in the oven. The latest model now also features egg- and cake-cooking functions, plus a four-hour pressure cooking time.
Accessories include • A stainless-steel steam rack • Rice paddle • Soup spoon • Measuring cup • Instruction manual • Recipe booklet, cooking timetables and a quick-start guide
£79 rrp £149.99
How to order your Instant Pot Lux
`Instant Pot is a fantastic addition to any kitchen. It cooks healthy meals perfectly in less than 15 minutes' Michel Roux Jr
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To order, visit instantpot.co.uk and enter offer code GF176 at the checkout 160 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
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STAR LETTER behind the headlines
A shortage of chefs ext time you eat at your local Italian, Greek or Indian restaurant, take a moment to think about who’s doing are having the cooking – or not. Restaurateurs almost half of a tough time recruiting staff, with difficult to fill, the vacancies (47 per cent) proving Employment according to the UK Commission for are and Skills. Indian restaurants in particular close next year struggling, with many expected to chefs coming because they can’t afford to sponsor i ituation continues
A lack of trained kitchen staff may force your local restaurant to close, warns Joanna Blythman
development nationals, according to the workforce from EU charity, People 1st. Nearly half are further countries and there are concerns that It’s not restrictions will escalate this shortage. of fresh just that we need a regular infusion give us a talent from the mother countries to world diverse the of taste authentic reasonably to. It’s also cuisines we’ve become accustomed backbone of that chefs from abroad are now the that the catering business, even in restaurants
Giving staff a helping hand Meanwhile, some restaurateurs are doing their best to make the job more attractive. Nottingham-based chef Sat Bains has pioneered a four-day
Denise wins four bottles of Champagne Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (£35, widely available). This champagne is dry and light with small, ine bubbles – perfect for a celebration.
I was struck by Joanna Blythman’s article, ‘A shortage of chefs’ (Oct). As a food teacher in a secondary school, I’ve seen a massive decline in respect for food-related subjects in schools in the last decade. The average student has just six hours of practical food lessons in their whole school career! This results in a gap in skills, leading to a lack of students transferring to catering college. It also means young people don’t know how to cook for themselves and lack nutritional awareness. Everyone should be taught how to cook at school, to awaken a passion for food and cooking: leading not only to more people wanting to work in the hospitality industry, but a healthier nation too. Denise Gilmour, Worcestershire
Every month, we ask a Good Food fan to recommend a favourite restaurant.
This month, Jenny Morris recommends Porter & Rye in Glasgow.
You’ve been posting our recipes… #bbcgoodfood
Located smack bang in the middle of Glasgow’s super-hip Finnieston strip, Porter & Rye delivers an unforgettable dining experience. The restaurant itself has an old-meets-new style – bare brick walls, cabinets illed with cured meat, an open kitchen, craft beer – which adds to its cool vibe. It uses local produce from Gaindykehead Farm, Airdrie, Scotland, and serves up beautiful Scottish meat and seafood – the bone marrow mac & cheese is stunning, especially when poured onto their burger!
My three children, Tom (12), Ellie (10), and Hattie (seven), made themselves the raspberry lemonade slushies (Oct). Rosalind Mullin, Devon
@johnstimps John baked our spooky spider’s web cake (Oct) for Halloween and did a brilliant job. @justaddawesome Winner winner, meatball dinner. Steph cooked up our melting meatball macaroni (Oct) – it looks fantastic.
My husband and I got married in August and as soon as I got back from honeymoon the wedding diet went out the window. I cooked the low & slow steak, frying pan pizza and the no-knead grape & rosemary focaccia (Sept). I think my husband will soon get used to married life with a little help from Good Food! Fiona Davis, Walton on Thames
Know somewhere good in your area? Tell us what makes it stand out – we’ll publish a recommendation in every issue. Let us know on Facebook and Twitter using the hashtag #gfeatsout
I made the courgette, lemon & thyme cake (Sept). It was delicious and a real showstopper. Sue Rait, Devon
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DECEMBER 2016 bbcgoodfood.com 161
TWICE AS NICE
Full English shakshuka The North African breakfast dish of eggs in a spicy tomato sauce is made doubly delicious with bacon, bangers and beans recipe CASSIE BEST photograph CLARE WINFIELD
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY
Food styling ELLIE JARVIS Styling WEI TANG
1 tbsp vegetable or sun lower oil 4 chipolatas 4 rashers streaky bacon 200g chestnut or button mushroom, sliced 200g can haricot beans, drained 200ml passata 6 cherry tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato ketchup pinch of chilli lakes (optional) 2 4 eggs (depending on how hungry you are) small handful parsley, chopped buttered toast, to serve
through but the yolks are still runny. Scatter with parsley and extra chilli, if you like, and serve with hot buttered toast. GOOD TO KNOW folate • ibre • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 570 kcals • fat 36g • saturates 10g • carbs 21g • sugars 10g • ibre 8g • protein 36g • salt 2.9g
1 Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan. Add the chipolatas, cook until brown all over, then push to one side of the pan. Add the bacon to one part of the pan and the mushrooms to the other. Fry until the bacon starts to crisp and the mushrooms are golden. Tip the contents of the pan onto a plate. 2 Tip the beans, passata and tomatoes into the frying pan. Add the ketchup and chilli (if using), and season well. Bubble for 5 mins, then scatter the mushrooms over the top and nestle the chipolatas and bacon among the beans. Create two to four gaps in the beans (so you can see the base of the pan) and crack in the eggs. Cover the pan with a lid or baking tray and cook for 4-5 mins until the egg whites are cooked
DON’T MISS NEXT MONTH’S
ON SALE 29 DECEMBER
Our food trends forecast for 2017 O Paris on a budget O The new Good Food healthy diet plan 162 bbcgoodfood.com DECEMBER 2016
Published on Dec 12, 2016
Christmas should be all about spending time together and enjoying the festivities rather than endless to-do lists. That’s why we’ve packed t...