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Vol 36 No. 11

VOL 22 NO. 11

November 2023

NOVEMBER 2023

Power at Jo & Co. Jewelers FromGirl Armenia to rocks America, Motif Jewelers Turns 40

By Wanda Freeman store in Rocky Mount. Ingram’s daughter Bernice worked The owner of Jo & Co. JewBy Paul Holewa between the two stores. elers was agenocide freshmanthat in occurred college from 1915 workers, the family started taking to 1923.when The Chopjian Whereas Rocky Mount serves many lifelong resiwith plans to be a globe-trotting detective she en- family fled in any and all jewelry repairs and Detroit-based Motifshe to Lebanon. dents, Smith Mountain Lake is home to both lifelong loteredFor the jewelry business. Sure, loved her job Mayda at Hay- and Arakel manufacturing. Jewelers reachingintheir 40thMount, an- Va., Chopjian hadjeweler’s six children - Toros, Word got out about the cals and well-traveled customers who moved there to acwood’s Jewelers Rocky but the niversary, Gen 2.0 Matios, Onnig, Jacques, Tamar, Chopjian’s ambitious efforts and cess beautiful lakes and golf courses. life wasn’twith her destiny - oralready so she assumed. in place to propel the family busi- and Nayiri. Mayda “The two stores are pretty different,” Gruver says. “I double-majored in international studies and Rus-worked as a quick turnaround which allowed ness to another and beseamstress and Arakel a shoe- them to quickly expand their reWith the latter clientele, Gruver finds her store does more sian with a minordecade in criminal justice,” Joanna Gruver reyond, seems to be the easy the partworld.” maker. In their youth the children pair and manufacturing homecustom work, and “probably more fashion looks, rather calls. “I was going to travel After she gradufor family. Getting worked as diamond setters and in based business. But the early than traditional bread-and-butter jewelry.” ated,thesheChopjian even interviewed with the State Department and to America’s Midwest to was givethe theTVashow.” jewelry manufacturing facility. years were difficult. “They had to In 2014, ten years after opening, the store under Gruwith NCIS “before there family business its start was the process “They always ver’s guidance and her team’s hard work outgrew its space When the year-long interview ended with- learned to work in some cases 24-hour days real challenge for theturned Armenian work withand theirmentor hands at an early just to make ends meet,” says and relocated to a larger spot in the same shopping center, out an offer, Gruver to her employer family. age,” says the Westlake Town Center. at Haywood’s, Harold Ingram. By this time, shegrandson had beenArakel Eric Eric. The with Chopjian Chopjian, director of operations Efficiency and quality craftsFrom there, she enjoyed growth of a different sort: In working him forfamily nearlystory six years. begins centuries ago. about Armenians for MotifLake Jewelers. manship were always corner2022, she and Ingram agreed it was time for her to strike “We were talking Smith Mountain and the have a lengthy and awell-known story is very stones of the family business, but out on her own, and she bought his share of the store. potential for opening store there, and heThe said,Chopjian ‘If you can history costume muchupthe consummate And finally, this summer came the rebranding: The come upwith withtraditional half the money, I’ll come with the other American the long days also meant fast remaking fabrication success new name, Jo & Co. Jewelers, debuted officially on July 1. half and and we’lljewelry open another store.’ …immigrant I was 23, and had nostory. After sults. Speed became another de-money, both dating back and thousands of from leaving civil torn Lebanon fining characteristic for the bud“It’s been very well-received,” Gruver says. The so I begged borrowed friends and war family, years. the family settled in Detroit in the ding Chopjian jewelry business. branding includes a stylish new sign and logo that looks and in 2004 we opened a store at Smith Mountain Lake.” Fast-forward the store 20th cen1970s. They only had their good So much so, that in 1983 the famlike a vivacious signature written with a fine-tipped Although thetonew was also named Haywood’s tury. As a former Soviet names and honed skills to call ily opened Flash Jewelers. marker, a theme that repeats itself in sections of the store (Westlake), Gruver was arepublic, 50-50 partner and operated it inToros Chopjian with daughter Jaclyn and son inside Motif Armenians victimscontinued of a their own.the Self-starters Motifofpage JoannaPlease Gruver,see owner Jo & 2Co. Jewelers. Please see JoEric & Co page 2 Jewelers. website. dependentlybecame while Ingram running original and hard

Jewelers Look to Modern Tech Profitable Future for a Profitable By Diana Diana Jarrett Jarrett By More than than at at any any other other time, time, More jewelry retailers retailers tackle tackle every every tool tool jewelry to keep keep their their business business thriving. thriving. to Major shifts shifts in in buying buying behaviors behaviors Major have made made itit necessary necessary for for retailretailhave ers to to keep keep pace pace with with technology, technology, ers albeit some some feel feel unequipped. unequipped. albeit Technology is is so so pervasive pervasive Technology throughout our our industry industry that that throughout while aa retailer retailer may may not not feel feel tech tech while savvy, they they are are actually actually benefitbenefitsavvy, ing from from its its presence presence in in practical practical ing ways. ways. Online -v-v- In In store store sales sales Online It’s safe safe to to say say that that many many It’s brick and and mortar mortar retailers retailers are are brick scrambling to to lure lure back back online online scrambling shoppers, given given the the enormous enormous shoppers, advantage of of convenience convenience over over advantage physical shopping. shopping. Still Still with with pricpricphysical ey items items like like luxury luxury goods, goods, some some ey consumers still still prefer prefer the the “high “high consumers touch customer customer service service experiexperitouch ence” with with its its hands-on hands-on personal personal ence” care. care.

Kristina Buckley Buckley Kayel, Kayel, Kristina Managing Director Director & & CMO CMO of of Managing The Natural Natural Diamond Diamond Council. Council. The Tech tools tools in in use use now now Tech Modern technology technology offers offers Modern exciting developments developments that that benbenexciting efit the the jewelry jewelry trade. trade. Things Things like like efit 3D printing printing have have given given jewelers jewelers 3D streamlined path path to to creating creating aa streamlined custom pieces pieces -- which which is is aa robust robust custom revenue stream stream for for most most jewelry jewelry revenue stores. stores.

Even mom mom and and pop pop retailers retailers Even today are are growing growing familiar familiar with with today CAD/CAM technology technology to to aid aid CAD/CAM with designing designing original original pieces pieces for for with their clientele. clientele. And And while while not not evevtheir ery jeweler jeweler is is so so equipped, equipped, laser laser ery technology is is gaining gaining traction traction in in technology the manufacturing manufacturing sector. sector. With With the these technologies, technologies, more more intricate intricate these designs can can be be produced produced than than can can designs be accomplished accomplished manually. manually. When When be laser technology technology is is applied applied to to laser gemstone cutting, cutting, jewelers jewelers find find gemstone fewer human-produced human-produced errors. errors. fewer So much much to to do do So But simply simply keeping keeping track track But of sales sales and and new new inventory, inventory, plus plus of marketing is is aa full full time time job job many many marketing retailers say. say. So So not not all all retailers retailers retailers feel up up to to speed speed about about the the lightlightfeel ening fast fast pace pace that that technological technological ening advancements are are making. making. advancements Insider’s insight insight Insider’s Kristina Buckley Buckley Kayel, Kayel, Kristina Managing Director Director & & CMO CMO of of Managing The Natural Natural Diamond Diamond Council Council The Please see see Tech Tech page page 14 14 Please

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Jewelry Sales Training from a Living Legend At 96, 96, jewelry jewelry sales sales trainer trainer Leonard Leonard Zell Zell is is At comfortably retired retired in in the the picturesque picturesque state state of of comfortably Oregon. With With his his AOL AOL account account and and LinkedIn LinkedIn page page still still active, active, Leonard Leonard Oregon. continues to to answer answer the the occasional occasional email email and and phone phone call call from from retail retail continues jewelers looking looking for for some some sales sales advice. advice. jewelers Leonard started started his his jewelry jewelry sales sales training training consultancy consultancy business business in in Leonard January 1991. 1991. That’s That’s more more than than three three decades decades of of helping helping jewelry jewelry store store January owners and and their their staff staff sell sell more more jewelry. jewelry. Prior Prior to to that that he he worked worked for for owners Zale Corporation Corporation and and before before Zale that he he worked worked at at his his family’s family’s that jewelry stores stores in in Portland, Portland, OrOrjewelry egon. egon. Leonard has has been been selling selling Leonard jewelry and and jewelry jewelry sales sales traintrainjewelry ing for for roughly roughly 80 80 years. years. By By ing most measures measures that that makes makes for for most living legend legend in in jewelry jewelry retail retail aa living sales. sales. Early in in life life Leonard Leonard benbenEarly efitted from from working working in in his his efitted family’s jewelry jewelry store. store. As As the the family’s family story story goes, goes, in in 1912 1912 family Leonard’s father father and and his his four four Leonard’s uncles left left Russia. Russia. As As the the EuEuuncles ropean country country continued continued to to ropean Leonard Zell Zell Leonard move away away from from monarchy monarchy move rule, the the remainder remainder of of the the family family left left five five years years later later when when the the socialist socialist rule, revolution was was in in its its infancy infancy (February (February 1917). 1917). revolution “When my my father father and and my my uncles uncles arrived arrived in in America America they they had had “When zero experience experience in in jewelry jewelry retail,” retail,” says says Leonard. Leonard. “With “With family family already already zero here my my father father and and his his brothers brothers Please see see Zell Zell page page 24 24 here Please By Paul Paul Holewa Holewa By

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JOOTIF & cO M

Dubbeld, the assistant manager, weighs in. named Milford used today,” says Eric. Jacque’s store Rounding out the femme-strong team The family respected Motif Jewelers (based in Milford) beContinued from from page page 11 Continued are leadreputation. sales associate Adkins Manufacturing’s Part Caroline came Motif Jewelers in 2013. and the store’s amazing jeweler, Gruver’s Established customers respond favor“When Flash Jewelers of the purchase agreement was Eight years later, the Chopjian Beverly ably to the new early look, 1980s even when by tremendous opened in the theycaught the Chopjian’s abilityfriend to useand the colleague family built their flagship store in “Bev.” Coleman Gruver stresses surprise, Gruver says. had no inventory,” says Eric. “So Motif name seven years after the Taylor. that “if it ‘Bev’ ‘OK, I love it but just youInspell they “They’ll displayedsay, some of Mayda’s acquisition. the late 1990s,you un-have to put the period!” wanted to make sure my people are still jewelry in the cases. They also here!’” set out images of jewelry items Jo & Co. istoalmost all female for customers see what was run, with Gruver’s brother Joel, the offi able to be produced by them. ce In manager, being the only male in the operation. It’s a fact their first customer Fred still coincidence, but it works, thanks in part to shops with them to this day and longevity. he was the first customer to have Theofstore manager, a piece jewelry madeCharity for hisEvans, has been with the store some years, since wife based off an image in16their she was about 18, and Gruver can relate showcase.” to that. She says they have a truly The “Fred Treatment” special friendship and bond. worked well for the Chopjian “She and Ispread can read thethe same parafamily as word about graph and it will mean one thing manufacturing turned retailing to me and a completely different thing to her. We family. After years of hardship From left, Caroline Adkins, Haleigh Williamson, Charity Evans, Joanna Gruver, Sierra challenge each other,” Gruver says. and hard work the family caught Dubbeld, Madison Hutchinson, Abigail Gardner. The two usually work together and arToros Chopjian - a skilled craftsman. a major break in 1989 when Morive at an interpretation that falls between tif Manufacturing (a well-known Gruver says everybody on her team is “This year we raised $21,000 in four their two disparate perceptions. And then a “Both locations are on oppopassionate about what they do, and that’s hours for the American Cancer Society,” Jo & Co. Jewelers in Smith third perspective comes along when Sierra siteMountain sides of the Detroit suburbs,” what makes it work. Gruver says. by her children (L-R) Toros, Family matriarch Mayda, surrounded Lake, Virginia. says Eric. “They cover “Wea allvast genuinely like each other, and As challenges, Matios, Onnig, Jacquesfor andnew Tamar (seated). Gruver says region and really we don’t overlap. all go out and do things together outside developing the store website, something As traditional ways a very agewheelhouse, I was given was reMilford covers the Northwest of work. It is great working with some of of doing completely out early of her sponsibilities writing checks side of the Detroityour suburbs. Tay- business give way to technologibest friends.” the biggest. It resultedwith in something to be cal developments, the first generlor covers the south side of the Legacy and newer challenges abound: proud of,toandhandling she lookscustomer forward towedding growing to comthe nextthe genring to even handling minor Detroit suburbs. Both locations’ On the legacy side,ation Jo &transitions Co. remains online sidesales of the business. eration of jewelers. didGruver construction projects within and the communities are very mittedtight-knit to continuing a 19-year pattern Mayda of says she likes to network of the restringing the thestores. was interand require wonderful communigiving back to themuch community. Often, the for finds biggestJaclyn impact onalways her business stores throughout herhas life. in design and improving the ty involvement. The involvement store designs and retail donates pieces. beenested her 11-year membership in RJO. More importantly, shea wasThe thefriendships, customerdiscounts experience our with community and building “If there ais something going on for andwithin education support system that guarkept thehave fam-all stores.” lasting reputation for goodinqualcharity our area, you can almost impacted her business in a huge ily and the family business inline interestReview also ity has kept both locations sucantee we are helping to support it,” Gruver way. She sitsThe on theearly Merchandise Toros Chopjian with children Jaclyn and Eric. like the knots that give a strand brought with travels it extensive educacessful for us.” says. Committee and also as part of a of pearls uniform And, tank. tional pursuits wellher as “a angreat imMarket saturation isAonly one jewelry manufacturing company der the name Motif Jewelers, a major charity event isitsthe annualbeauty. Di- think These thingsasgive Jacques store on pressive list of of the modern marketing traits in the Detroit area) was acquired mall-based store was opened. amond Dig, whichToros’s entailsbrother the store settingis apulse what is going on industry-related in the industry,” manager Milford location. Jewelers stocked by the Chopjians. The Chopjian family took that has helped Motif up a sandbox within athe grand-prize she says.credentials. With Eric and Jaclyn Toros’s sonofEric and daugh-Besides the generational leaders says of Gen successful Being the highest bidders for advantage of mall locations when become increasingly 2-carat diamond and thousands dollars networking, Gruver her ter JaclynPatrons are thecan up-and-comers Chopjians pleasedis busi- gemstones. the manufacturing company that shopping and lifestyle centers over the years. The of family other loose do- favorite 2.0, part the of the jewelry are business forreceive Motifa Jewelers. “My building sister to see youngerwith cousins showing to jewelwent under the hammer in auction were popular. But in the 2000s, ness has 24-hour access nate $35 or more to small bucket, relationships her customers Jaclyn I started at a veryand early interest in the family business, website is sand allowed the Chopjians to quickly having multiple locations had to ry design via their scoop outand some andand move to a sifting community. age,keep me whatever at 14 andstones Jaclyn in her“Andensuring another milestone annisocial- and media own additional jewelry manufac- have a strategic market coverage active on several key station they can I like pretty, sparkly things!” early twenties,” says Eric. “At versary in 2033. platforms. turing equipment and a number of advantage to it. they find. Inside Jo & Co. Eric’s uncle molds. “Many of which are still Eventually

MAJN SJN SJN MAJN Southern Jewelry News

Southern Jewelry News

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Established Established1988 1988 Editor, Editor, Bill Bill Newnam Newnam bill@southernjewelrynews.com bill@southernjewelrynews.com Publisher, Publisher, Chris Chris Smith Smith chris@southernjewelrynews.com chris@southernjewelrynews.com Administration Administration and and classiﬁ classified ed advertising advertising Martha Martha Osswald Osswald martha@southernjewelrynews.com martha@southernjewelrynews.com Staff StaffWriters Writers Wanda Wanda Freeman Freeman Paul Paul Holewa Holewa Dianna Dianna Jarrett Jarrett Deborah DeborahYonick Yonick Vice Vice President President Sales Sales Elesa Elesa B. B. Dillon Dillon elesa@southernjewelrynews.com elesa@southernjewelrynews.com

Contributing ContributingWriters Writers David David Brown Brown Diana Diana Jarrett Jarrett Mia Mia Katrin Katrin Chuck Chuck Koehler Koehler Joel Joel McFadden McFadden Guy Guy Pineda Pineda George George Prout Prout Southern Southern Jewelry Jewelry News News 2006 2006New NewGarden GardenRoad Road--Suite Suite208 208 Greensboro, Greensboro,NC NC27410 27410 Phone: Phone: 336-389-1950 336-389-1950 Fax: Fax: 336-389-1952 336-389-1952 www.southernjewelrynews.com www.southernjewelrynews.com email: email:info@southernjewelrynews.com info@southernjewelrynews.com Any Anyviews viewsor oropinions opinionspresented presentedininthis this publication publicationare aresolely solelythose thoseofofthe theauthor author and anddo donot notnecessarily necessarilyrepresent representthose those ofofSouthern SouthernJewelry JewelryNews. News.

Jewelry News • November 2023

Industry Events

Jewelry News • November 2023

INSTORE Show 2023 delivers robust sales, exceptional education and networking (ROSEMONT, Ill.) – INSTORE hosted its first INSTORE Show in Rosemont, Illinois August 13 - 15 at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center and co-located with the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference (Aug. 11 - 12). INSTORE also partnered with MJSA to hold an education track on Cram Day (Aug. 12) ahead of the show, and MJSA also oversaw the Bench Pressure Challenge, Aug. 13 – 14. Additionally, on Sunday night August 11, a “Play It Cool Party”

fêted this year’s winners of the America’s Coolest Jewelry Stores contest. Popular speaker Shane Decker drew a crowd as the keynote speaker where he addressed “How to Double Your Average Ticket Sale.” On the show floor, a variety of educational seminars took place. Among them were, Just Be You: How to Match Your Store Environment with Your Culture and Model, How to Overcome the Most Difficult Customer Ob-

jections, How to Prep for Fourth Quarter Based on Current Retail Trends, and 3 Ways to Update Your Store on a Budget. Popular INSTORE columnists and retailers featured on the pages of the magazine led thoughtful discussions and offered tips on how to elevate businesses. “It was great to see the pages of INSTORE come to life with so many of our columnists and peers present for the show,” said Eileen McClelland, managing editor of INSTORE. Winners of the Bench Pressure Challenge emerged after two days of competition. Two separate challenges included a “mystery box” of materials - including one unusual item - sent to three bench jewelers who then designed a piece using the materials and brought it to the show. They explained to the audience how and why they used their materials and techniques. A second Timed

Challenge involved resizing, setting and finishing a piece using materials given out at the show and completed within a 3-hour period by three other competitors. The winner of the Mystery Box Challenge was Shayna Egan from Green Lake Jewelry Works in Seattle, and the winner of the Timed Challenge was Jimmy Butts from Sissy’s Log Cabin in Pine Bluff, AR. Exhibitors and buyers were pleased with the event’s location, layout and vibe. “On opening day, we did triple the goal we set for ourselves for the entire show,” said Kimberly Collins of the eponymous gemstone firm. “Retailers restocked some loose colored gemstones, including a huge blue zircon from Cambodia and teal sapphires. We also sold a beautiful ruby tennis necklace, and there was also lots of interest in rainbow jewelry and Barbie pink.”

“We signed up five new accounts on our first day,” noted Larry Rodgers of Lavish Jewelry Cleaner. “We met a lot of store owners that we’ve never seen at any other show.” “It was great to reconnect with people,” said Alan Goodheart of Goodheart’s Jewelry in Overland Park, KS. “We haven’t been to a show since before the pandemic. We’ve had two great days of buying and the party was amazing - the food, the music, the excitement.” Dates for next year’s show are already set for August 11 - 13, 2024, to be held again in Rosemont at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center. For more information, log onto theinstoreshow.com or direct any questions to INSTORE staff at info@theinstoreshow.com. Email exhibit@theinstoreshow.com to learn more about 2024 exhibiting opportunities.

CBG Miami “Experience” event gets positive reviews Continental Buying Group (CBG) reports there is excitement at the CBG office as RSVPs for the CBG January show in Orlando rolled in minutes after the invitations were sent out. “Just off the heels of the CBG Miami Experience at the J.W. Marriott Turnberry Resort and Spa suppliers are seeing

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more value than ever in spending quality time face to face, whether at their booths or in the pool, with independent retailers,” says CBG’s Joe Murphy. The CBG Experience happens each September at various locales across the country. CBG has always fostered an environment for optimal networking, communication, and growth for all their members. The Experience takes this to the next level and provides educational experiences for both suppliers and retailers, as well as a buying show, on the cusp of the fourth quarter. The Welcome Party kicked off this Miami event featuring grammy award winning Cuban musician Tomasito Cruz and Latin fare. Each morning at breakfast, assigned seating was in place and rotated for suppliers and retailers to network and enjoy themed presentations together. Founder, Andie Weinman began each day with a personal message. The first morning featured Sign up at southernjewelrynews.com midamericajewelrynews.com

a panel discussion on Increasing Sales Through Technology where retailers and suppliers discussed new tools available to help grow their jewelry businesses. On the second morning, social media expert Jera Bean spoke to attendees on how and why to effectively use TikTok. The final morning was themed Wellness with James Stern, M.D., giving a humorous speech about surgical enhancements, followed by insights on deep breathing and a group experience led by Yogi Laurie Miller. Each day lunch was freestyle starting with Taco Tuesday. Kosher and Indian buffets rounded out the assortment. Suppliers and retailers mingled at the cocktail parties and the atmosphere was truly collaborative. Next year CBG will head to Nashville for some whiskey, country music and more ground breaking educational presenters. For more information on CBG call 305-868-9004 or email contact@cbgi.org.

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Letter to the Editor Diamond industry veteran rebuts dire forecast in The Asteroid Approaches I read with a degree of surprise and considerable aggravation, George Prout’s recent article titled “Applied Marketing 101: The Asteroid Approaches” [Oct. 2023]. I strongly disagree with several points made and feel I should respond, so both my own clients and those reading your publication have a counterpoint before making potentially damaging business decisions. There is no credible evidence that I can find to support the notion that Gen-Z regards engagement rings differently enough to make a significant impact than previous generations. In fact, looking at data on Google Trends for the last 8-10 years, information supports that consumer interest in engagement rings is mostly steady. Assuming it is Gen Z, now up to 26 years old, influencing the “engagement ring” search numbers, I fail to see a generational reason for Mr. Prout’s predicted apocalypse in demand and resulting oversupply. Google Trends is a good indication of what the public looks for and can be used to determine actual consumer interest independent of sales figures, which can be influenced by other factors. We use tools like this along with other data, and 45 years experience, to drive our strategies on supply and demand.

I would welcome reviewing the source data Mr. Prout used for his article, to see why it differs so much from what we are seeing, and this data. I refer to a September 17, 2023 CNN business article titled “After 2023 wraps up, get ready for a spike in marriage proposals” where we see “Signet expects engagements will reach 2.4 to 2.5 million” and further adds this will be “...climbing back up and fully rebound over the next three years.” I am wondering why Mr. Prout’s has such a pessimistic take on engagement recovery where “the largest jewelry company in the United States” does not? Perhaps they are looking at different data? I will agree with Mr. Prout that there has been a LGD-led sharp (some may say unprecedented) decline in unit sales value, and would point out that whilst ND prices have adjusted in-line with standard market conditions and fluctuations, this large drop is partially affected by LGD prices crashing in a way that has upset the overall market. This is a causal problem we in the ND industry have been realistic to face but must help our clients navigate as it does affect all sales. In keeping with the title of the article, “Business 101” tells us that trading has forever run in cycles, as have interest rates, inflation, and all other business elements affecting our industry. I fail to see the importance or revelation in suggesting that the majors will have returns after the

x-mas season. This has been going on for decades and is part of the cycle. Sure, we may not, as an industry, sell as many natural diamonds in 2023 as we sold in 2021 & 2022, but there are still plenty of natural diamonds being sold. Let those of us old enough to do so, remember that prices for natural diamonds also came down in the past as well: 1975, 1981, 2001, 2008, 2020, and I may well have forgotten some other years. Perhaps the most egregious point I take issue with is the suggestion that stores will have ‘a five year supply of mined diamonds, and some of you may have a lifetime supply’? Where did this information come from? We have already found that we can expect a rebound in engagement business; we have established that consumer interest is mostly steady, and we already know that ND prices are kept within trading norms, so where does this come from? Perhaps some stores known to the author have made mistakes in buying inventory, but our clients continue to buy natural diamonds for their projects and inventory with no danger of this oversupply. Anecdotes and stories can be entertaining to read and are often full of “business “x” and person “y”, but they rarely mirror actual circumstances, especially ones so nuanced as the diamond industry. I notice that, in the provided story, no mention is made of whether this diamond supplier is losing on LGD or ND, and I would hazard a strong guess it is the former. If indeed this is the case, well yes, this is not a surprise and perhaps we should discuss why the LGD industry is forcing businesses to take losses. Certainly, we do not sell at a net business loss, but there again, we have been doing this for 100 years, so maybe that’s why too. I like to base my opinions, strategies and advice on verifiable facts and a personal 45 years of diamond experience, and while I may not like the present market, I see no reason to bury my head or obfuscate the facts to suit my narrative. There is no asteroid coming, we have been through this before and we will survive this as well. Sincerely, Serge Fischler Fischler Diamonds,Inc. New York, NY

JA members push for security, credit reform in D.C. (NEW YORK) - Jewelers of America, the national trade association for businesses serving the fine jewelry marketplace, returned to Capitol Hill, meeting with lawmakers to discuss policies and issues that are impacting their businesses. The annual flyin, led by the Jewelers of America

for stronger legislation to fight crime was the guest at dinner on Wednesday night. Other prominent members of Congress JA members connected with included: Rep. Pete Sessions (R, TX-17); Sen. Maria Cantwell (D-WA); Sen. Patty Murray (DWA); Rep. Kim Schrier, M.D. (D,

President and CEO Dave Bonaparte and JA members in front of the the U.S. Capitol. This year marks Jewelers of America’s 11th Fly-In to Washington, D.C. Photo Abby Greenawalt Photography. Political Action Committee (JAPAC), was held on Wednesday, September 13. At the top of this year’s legislative agenda for jewelers are measures to reduce crime, which has gone up sharply over the past few years. JA members shared personal experiences, as well as key data from the Jewelers Security Alliance and Jewelers Mutual indicating the sharp increases in crime, as rates saw some of their biggest spikes in jewelry-related crime ever reported. “Crime against jewelry businesses and customers has skyrocketed,” says Jewelers of America President & CEO David J. Bonaparte. “We wanted to ensure lawmakers understand how this issue threatens jewelers’ security and livelihoods.” In fact, the delegation met with members of congress who have been actively pushing for stronger measures to fight rising crime. This included Rep. Young Kim, (R, CA-40) who is a sponsor of the “Improving the Federal Response to Organized Retail Crime Act of 2023,” which is one of several bipartisan bills introduced earlier this year that focus on retail crime. Kim joined the group for lunch, along with members of Republican leadership including Senator Joni Ernst (RIA) and Rep. Elise Stefanik (R, NY-21 and Republican Conference Chair). Rep. Darrell Issa (R, CA-48), who has also advocated

WA-08); Rep. Marilyn Strickland (D, WA-10); Rep. Claudia Tenney (R, NY-24); Rep. Kevin Kiley (R, CA-03); Rep. Carol Miller (R, WV-01); Rep. Mariannette Miller-Meeks (R, IA-01); Rep. Andy Barr (R, KY-06); Rep. Lori Chavez-DeRemer (R, OR-05); Rep. Beth Van Duyne (R, TX24); Rep. Ken Calvert (R, CA41); Rep. Mario Diaz Balart (R, FL-25); and Rep. Ronny Jackson (R, TX-13) In addition to emphasizing the need for action to fight jewelry related crime, the delegation of jewelers emphasized the following issues to Congress: • The need for Credit Card Reform, with a lack of competition causing credit card swipe fees to rise year after year. This lack of competition costs American businesses and consumers an estimated $15 billion per year. • The need for pro-growth tax policy that makes U.S. companies competitive in the global economy and provides a level playing field among all sectors of the economy and all sectors of retail. • Protection of the last-in, first-out (LIFO) inventory accounting method, which is considered an attractive revenue-raising option by lawmakers. Repeal would deal a potentially fatal blow to companies in the jewelry industry that use LIFO. Jewelers of America Please see JAPAC page 30

Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

The importance of having Patience & Compassion in your jewelry business By Kristen Baird The holidays are known as “the most wonderful time of the year”. For those of us who own jewelry businesses, it might be more accurate to call them the most hectic time of the year. They’re also the time of year when we’re particularly likely to encounter clients going through difficult times. As a jeweler who regularly does heirloom redesigns, I’ve witnessed firsthand how the “happiest season of all”

has a funny way of bringing grief to the surface. After losing a close family member earlier this year, I’ve gained an even deeper understanding of just how important human connection is to a small business. No matter how hectic things might get during the holidays, the most meaningful gifts you can give your clients are your patience and compassion. Anyone who has ever lost a loved one knows what a blur the following weeks can be and how

difficult it is to even make small decisions. When planning the memorial service for my family member, the compassionate and steady guidance of the team at our funeral home was a life raft. I don’t know how we would have gotten through that time without them. This experience got me thinking about all the times my clients have seemed overwhelmed by the process of redesigning their heirloom jewelry. The emotions of grieving and letting go cut to the

core of who we are as human beings. I’ve had clients tear up while going through a loved one’s jewelry, even years after the fact. In the past, I thought I understood why this was happening, but it’s difficult to really grasp the depth of that emotion until you’ve been there yourself. As jewelry designers, we’re fortunate to work with people during many of the happiest moments of their lives, such as weddings and graduations. But we also touch on some of the most difficult.

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Kristen Baird Heirloom redesigns, which are especially popular during the holidays, require the same gentle touch that those kind funeral directors gave to my family. It’s a tall order, and probably not one we expected to take on when we went into the jewelry business, but it’s just as essential to the job as gushing over that diamond engagement ring. Holiday shopping is a deeply personal experience. The woman who can’t make up her mind, switching between several different necklaces and constantly asking for adjustments, may be experiencing the first holiday without her husband to help her shop. The daughter who comes in wanting her father’s diamond watch redesigned may feel guilty about making changes, even if she knows she won’t wear it as is. The woman who is constantly overshooting her budget and then starting from scratch may just be trying to maintain a sense of normalcy. During the hustle and bustle of the holidays, it’s easy to forget that, for all of these individuals, the real miracle is that they are moving forward. It’s our job to guide them gently through this process, not rush them along. In fact, the caring attention you give a client is just as important as the quality of your work. This holiday season, take time to sit down one-on-one with your clients and really walk them through the process. Be flexible to change and remember that you never know exactly what someone else is going through. Even picking the perfect earrings to give to your mother can be monumental during the holiday season. Whether they are creating a brand-new custom piece or simply shopping, the extra attention will make a big impression. For those clients who are having a more difficult holiday, a little grace will work miracles. Trust me when I say that the best way to earn loyalty from any client is by simply being a good human being to them. This will do more for your small business than any email marketing, SEO, or social media campaign ever See Baird page 12 could.

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Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Successful Custom

By Joel McFadden

Aﬀordable Luxury The customer is off on some adventure or vacation. Indulging their senses on some cruise to a foreign destination. Strolling through the local port city they find the perfect gift! Such a rare find! The merchant presents them with this “high end, high quality, limited supply” delight they can get for a fraction of the full retail price! This particular customer, now standing in my shop for a repair, had been given this gift from his wife. She was so proud to present him with this huge fancy watch. She told him it was

very high-end, similar to a Rolex but more affordable, but she had purchased it at an even greater discount and paid just $300 for it. I smiled at the customer and tried not to cringe when I saw the brand name inscribed in huge letters across the side. Once upon a time they were indeed a great high-end brand, but that was several ‘going out of business brand name for sale’ ago. This customer wanted to know how to get the ‘motion activated winding’ thing to work. I told him it needed a new battery. He had tried to adjust the band

himself. The end result was several of the pins were mangled and some were completely missing. He wanted to know if I could fix that. I told him we don’t stock any parts for watches and don’t have the myriad of specialty tools required to work on watches. Even something as simple as changing the battery or band requires tools we don’t have. I am very clear with our customers that we do not sell, service or repair watches. For some select customers, I have offered to send their sentimental treasured timepiece off

for service or adjust the band for them. However, for this customer, I just didn’t have the heart to tell him that his wife’s $300 treasure was replaceable by an Amazon purchase for about $70 and buying the replacement would be less than the cost to fix his mangled band and replace the battery. Although, the replacement could very well need a new battery also. Years ago I worked at a shop that frequently got customers coming in with these same watches. All of them were sold at a local discount store for $65 each with a completely dead battery…

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Joel McFadden but that’s a story for another time. This may have been the first of this brand of watches I’ve seen come in the door to my new shop, but it’s certainly not the first of these ‘cruise ship treasure finds’ that have come in. Another, on my bench now, is such a delicate ring. It’s so incredibly thin and ultra-lightweight. Its owner bumped it a few times and it bent completely out of shape. It’s her high-end affordable luxury. She was convinced she could never afford to pay full price for such a beautiful piece set with real rubies and diamonds! These customers and countless others are all looking for the same thing. They want to feel they are getting the very best, yet at a price that they can afford. With so many online sellers generating the ‘pretty looking’ jewelry at a cheap price, how do we compete with that? We don’t. We are not in the business to sell cheap mass produced junk that takes a pretty picture. We make REAL high-end, quality jewelry, that is stunningly beautiful, customized to the customer’s taste, and keep the price reasonable. It’s easy to look at those customers looking for that ‘Affordable Luxury’ piece as just cheapskates that don’t want (or can’t afford) to pay full price for something. The reality is that everyone looks to save a few dollars where they can. The simple fact that they brought this cheap luxury looking item sitting on your repair bench in to be fixed should speak volumes about how much they value the luxury. This is a GREAT customer to have in your shop. You don’t have to sell them on the luxury of the items. They already want and are looking for that! You just need to educate them and sell them on the VALUE of the QUALITY you can provide that won’t have them coming back for this sort of repair! It’s time the jewelry industry as a whole shifts to educating the customer on the value and quality of true craftsmanship. Mass produced pieces with cast in place gems that fall out, ultimately cost the customer more to replace the lost gems and repair. Educating Please see McFadden page 12

Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Jewelers Mutual® enhances cybersecurity awareness with free online courses

(NEENAH, Wis.) - As jewelry businesses face an ever-increasing threat of cybercrimes, Jewelers Mutual® Group, the insurance and business solutions provider dedicated to the jewelry industry since 1913, is taking extra measures to enhance the safety and security of the industry. In recognition of Cybersecurity Awareness Month, Jewelers Mutual has launched new cyber education courses within its Safety and Security Academy. These online courses are free of charge to the entire jewelry industry and are designed to equip jewelry

business owners and their staff with the essential knowledge to help safeguard their digital assets and protect their customers’ data. According to the Internet Crime Report of 2022, the Federal Bureau of Investigation’s Internet Crime Complaint Center has documented cyber-related losses totaling $27.6 billion over the last five years. With losses nearly doubling from 2021 to 2022 and trends continuing upward, heightened awareness and robust cybersecurity education and training are critical. The new cyber courses of-

fered through the Safety and Security Academy (jewelersmutual.com/jeweler-safety-security-academy) are part of Jewelers Mutual’s ongoing effort to raise awareness about the importance of cybersecurity within the jewelry trade. Each course offers practical insights and guidance on various aspects of technology and cybersecurity, including establishing a security-aware culture, responding to ransomware events and implementing strong technical and employee controls. “Education is the first line of defense against cybercrimes,”

said Grant Hansen, Chief Information Security Officer at Jewelers Mutual. “In today’s evolving digital landscape, every jewelry business owner and their staff need to refresh themselves on cyber safety and security best practices regularly to stay vigilant and take preventive action to help reduce the likelihood of becoming a target.” “Ensuring the security of valuable data is a shared responsibility. It is our belief that by sharing knowledge and best practices, the industry can collectively fortify its defenses against cyber

threats and other criminal acts,” said Hansen. To access valuable resources, learn more about the latest education courses or request additional security support, visit JewelersMutual.com/riskservices.

McFadden

Continued from page 10 your customer on the value of quality craftsmanship could be the key you need to turn that ‘affordable luxury’ shopper into a lifelong customer who will come back to you again and again. Custom guru Joel McFadden is the owner of Joel McFadden Designs in Chapel Hill, NC. He developed pricing for custom jewelry and repairs for the IJO Prototype Store, opened a business which became a million-dollar store focusing on custom, was named MJSA’s first Mentor Jeweler, was the first director of the Council of Custom Jewelers, and is the creator of the Bench Jewelers Challenge. He is an industry writer and speaks at events. Available for CAD work, stone setting, and complete custom pieces for the trade. Contact Joel at MentorJeweler@gmail.com, 984-212-2217, JMDJewelry.com, Facebook and YouTube.

Baird

Continued from page 8 At the same time, know that you can’t be everything for everyone, so be sure to give grace to yourself as well. Above all, remember that the work we do is so much more than just creating beautiful jewelry. We preserve memories that last a lifetime and help people express love for their families and friends. After all, that’s what the holidays are all about. Kristen Baird® Jewelry is an award-winning, fine jewelry brand, nestled in historic Savannah, Georgia. In a time where mass manufacturing is predominant, Kristen and her team utilize and preserve traditional metalsmithing skills as they delicately and precisely craft each piece by hand in Kristen’s studio. Using sterling silver, recycled 18K gold, and ethically sourced gemstones, Kristen’s jewelry is full of color and texture with juxtaposing forms both geometric and fluid. Learn more at www.kristenbaird. com.

Jewelry News • November 2023

TecH

Continued from page 1 weighs in with her observations. “Independent jewelry retailers have had to rapidly evolve their businesses to expand consumer accessibility as shoppers expect to have an experience that’s both engaging and inspiring across all touchpoints and at their fingertips.” The online shift The global pandemic of 2020 created a dynamic paradigm shift with shoppers’ purchasing behavior, especially among the younger generation. This demographic cut their teeth online and needed little encouragement to segue directly to the online shopping experience. And clearly, with online merchants’ generous sales and

return policies, it was convenient and risk free to shop. Should the customer not like a pricey piece once it was delivered, there was not only an ample return policy for a complete refund, but often a return label tucked into the shipped item’s paperwork. There is so much to consider in the retail landscape whether it be online or in an actual store. “Younger luxury shoppers are increasingly comfortable buying jewelry online and have an affinity for brands that are transactionally seamless and both personable and personalized,” Buckley Kayel points out. “This is evidenced by the rise and rapid growth of direct-to-consumer (DTC) brands such as The Clear

Cut, Mejuri, The Last Line and Stephanie Gottlieb.” One on one At the same time, jewelry knowledge that retailers share with their customers is often both a valuable teaching point and a means of reinforcing loyalty since that consumer learns about gemstones from an expert they trust. That’s all good of course, and retailers believe customers rely on these personal tutorials for an enhanced experience. Why would they go anywhere else when the retailer invests the time to educate them with each visit? Online sleuths Gone are the days when a customer shops by the color of the gem or the style of the jewelry, or even by their budget.

The internet has made researchers out of every consumer - comparing prices, quality and more, especially when it’s time to shop for diamonds. Buckley Kayel explains, “There is also much advancement in transparency, offering the customer information and insight on the origin and impact of their natural diamond purchase.” For certain, younger shoppers are keen to know a diamond’s origin and to have confidence that their ethics are aligned with those countries producing diamonds. Advancements in technology safeguard this requirement. Country of origin is a huge factor now in the consumer’s embracing of diamonds, and often with colored stones.

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Provenance is paramount The incredible advancements made in transparency alone, offering the consumer insight into the origin and impact of their natural diamond purchase is paramount, Buckley Kayel tells us. “This is due to the incredible traceability technology that is continuing to develop in the natural diamond industry. It would be no surprise if in 5 years’ time, we can fully trace where each diamond comes from throughout every step of its journey,” she reports. Specifically, such high tech tools as Tracr, Clara Diamond Solutions, De Beer’s Code of Origin, and Sarine Technologies lead the industry in providing the levels of assurance that consumers demand to identify country of origin on diamonds. GIA explains in their published report, Scientific Instruments Help Researchers Tell Gem Stories, that scientific instruments they utilize in gemstone analysis can determine complex issues like cause of color. This is huge, since untreated gems are valued much higher than their treated counterparts. This technology can separate sophisticated look alikes from the real deal. Vote of confidence That’s a lot of work to dig deeply into the story that collectors want to know about their diamonds and gemstones. But it’s essential to establishing and maintaining confidence in our trade. Buckley Kayel shares her insight with regard to the Tracr, Clara Diamond Solutions, De Beer’s Code of Origin, and Sarine tools sharing the spotlight today. “These are just a few of the organizations working to advance technology at an unparalleled rate compared to most other industries,” she affirms. The last word “Cumulatively,” Buckley Kayel says, “these factors not only enhance the consumer experience but also trust and confidence in the industry and help to shine a light on the innovations that the industry is working hard to achieve.”

Jewelry News • November 2023

The Retailer’s Perspective Where Did the Good Times Go?

Jewelry News • November 2023

By Chuck Koehler

I’ve noticed over the last year or so that my columns just aren’t as funny as they used to be. Well there’s a reason for that. It’s just not as much fun running a business in this current business environment as it was a few years, or a few decades, ago. It seems like it used to be easier, although I know that’s not really the case because it’s always been hard. I suppose I just thought it would get easier as time went by. The current environment, with record inflation, the highest fuel prices in recent memory and the cost of basic essentials at the grocery store at all-time highs, our customers just have less disposable income to spend at our stores. I’m doing okay, but in the words of Tony the Tiger, I want to be doing ‘Grrreat’! In our industry, we don’t compete with groceries or gasoline for our income. We compete with cars, clothes, vacations, and ‘toys’ like motorcycles and boats. When someone is going to spend money on a special occasion, jewelry is always one of the options, but not necessarily the only option. I have a friend that has a store out in the oil patch of West Texas. He told me that whenever an oil well ‘comes in’,

the owner of the well is expected to buy his wife something ‘over the top’ to show all of his competitors that his ship, and his oil well, had come in. He told me his biggest competitor was Rolls Royce. Now it seems that our biggest competitor is the gas pump and the grocery store. I’m one of those types of people that love to go the grocery store. I literally go every single day, some days I go more than once. And, because I tend to buy the same things over and over, and have done so for years, I’ve got a basis of knowledge for what I’m about to say. There is no way we are experiencing 7% inflation. Let’s do some math. One of the reasons I go to the store so often is two-fold. One, I like to go, and two, I have a tiny fridge at my store so I have to buy the smaller containers that get used up faster. One of the things I buy on a regular basis is the small container of sour cream. For as long as I can remember, it cost 99 cents. So, if we’re experiencing 7% inflation, that sour cream would now cost around $1.07. But it doesn’t cost $1.07. It now costs $1.79. That’s more like 79% inflation. I bought taco shells the other

day for lunch and was not happy. I’ve been buying the same 12pack for $2.39 for years. Today they were $3.39. If my math skills are accurate, that’s not a 7% increase, it’s a 40% increase. Why is the media lying to us about this when we can see it firsthand? How in the world are our customers going to be able to spend money in our stores, for discretionary purposes, when they are spending all of our money at the grocery store? It just burns my butt. Just think about how much of our money is going in our customer’s gas tanks. I know for a fact my customers would rather spend their money on things they enjoy rather than spending it to fill their gas tanks. And don’t get me started about the media. I was listening to one of the network morning shows this week and they were droning on about how gas prices are on the rise again. As someone who follows that market very closely, without nefarious human intervention, gas can be profitably sold at about $1.80 a gallon for the rest of our natural lifetimes. But, let a handful of people with less than honorable intentions get in there and manipulate the market for reasons that are beyond my com-

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prehension, and suddenly all of our money is going into someone else’s pocket. Another thing that makes it hard to try and be lighthearted is the whole censorship thing on social media. There are legal limits on the first amendment, but very few. Outside of those selective parameters, I don’t think the social media companies - or the government - should control what people can and cannot say. I used to really enjoy Facebook. I enjoyed the interaction with long lost friends from high school and college. I enjoyed being connected with my family that is spread all over the country. And I enjoyed that, as a journalist, I could inform an entirely different audience about the events that were unfolding around the world. That was until Mark Zuckerberg decided he didn’t want people to know any of those things. Let me explain. On October 2, 2020, I reported on my Facebook columnist page that the COVID 19 vaccine should roll out across the country on or about December 13, 2020, my mother’s birthday. I didn’t make up that information. I’d been following the FDA advisory panel throughout the development of the vaccine. In late September, they gave the timeline of how the next 10-12 weeks were going to play out. I looked at a calendar, did some basic math, and my pencil landed on December 13th. For my journalistic efforts, Facebook zapped all of my accounts, including my jewelry store. Since many of us use Facebook and Instagram to market and promote our wares, being shut down right at the beginning of the Christmas season was devastating. My customers could send me a message through one of those platforms but I couldn’t respond. It’s hard to say how much money I lost because a handful of people didn’t want what I had reported getting out to the public. And, I did it on a page that was not associated with my jewelry company. And, just to put the icing on the cake, the first vaccine was administered on December 13, 2020! I was right all along. In America, most people are caught up in the insanity of just living their daily lives. They rush to get the kids to school before they go to work. Then they shuttle the kids between after school activities. Then it’s dinner, homework, baths, and bedtime stories. Somewhere in the middle of all of

Chuck Koehler this, they may catch about 5-10 minutes of the news telling them about Travis Kelce becoming a Swiftie and it’s going to be really cold tomorrow. As a long-time columnist, I’m often the go-to guy that retailers call when they are wondering ‘is it just bad here, or is it bad everywhere?’ I can tell you for a fact, it’s bad everywhere! Our revenues, which should be competing with cruises and spa vacations, are now competing with grocery stores and gas stations. And that my friends, is why I haven’t been in a humorous mood lately. And, just when I thought things couldn’t get any more depressing, now we’ve got these roving gangs of thieves committing devastating smash and grab robberies at jewelry stores and major retailers all across the country. One of the saddest things I think I’ve seen in my career was a post last week on one of the jewelry store crime groups. It said; “Are you prepared for when it happens to you? Because it’s not ‘if’ it’s going to happen, it’s when it happens’. Damn! But, on a positive note, guess what’s right around the corner? Christmas is always a fun time of year in this industry because everything ramps up. Business picks up, sales pick up, and people’s attitudes pick up. I’m looking forward to all of us having a strong Christmas season. Who knows, if I have a good Christmas, maybe it will change my attitude and I can get back to writing lighthearted columns again. Hang tough everyone. Everything comes in waves and cycles. This is just one of the unpleasant cycles. It always turns around. Chuck is the owner of Anthony Jewelers in Nashville, TN. Chuck also owns CMK Co., a wholesale trade shop that specializes in custom jewelry and repair services to the jewelry industry nationwide. If you would like to contact Chuck or need a speaker or instructor for your next conference/event he can be reached at 615-354-6361, www.CMKcompany.com or send e-mail to info@ southernjewelrynews.com.

Jewelry News • November 2023

Unlocking Hidden Gems: The case for carrying authentic pre-owned luxury bags in jewelry stores By Cyndee Harrison The jewelry industry, renowned for its timeless elegance, is no stranger to embracing innovation to meet evolving consumer demands. As shoppers seek unique experiences and sustainable options, retail jewelry stores are increasingly discovering a promising new revenue stream:

chelle Spicer, co-owner of Spicer Greene Jewelers in Asheville, North Carolina, explains: “There are no luxury stores in the area, and Asheville attracts nearly 12 million tourists each year. Customers who see bags in the store often want to stop in and pair the bag with a particular piece of jewelry.” She and her co-owner husband note that these bags offer

Studded Love Note. Photo Two Authenticators Inc.

Pochette Milla. Photo Two Authenticators Inc.

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Estate handbags on display. selling authentic pre-owned luxury bags. By diversifying their offerings, these stores can tap into a new market segment while fostering customer loyalty. Let’s explore why jewelry stores should consider this exciting venture. Authentic pre-owned luxury bags hold a special allure for discerning customers. Eva-Mi-

rarity, affordability and contribute to sustainability efforts - an attractive trifecta for luxury shoppers. Jewelry retailers like Spicer Greene possess the ideal infrastructure and expertise to incorporate pre-owned luxury bags into their product mix. Fred Mannella, Co-Founder & President of

Two Authenticators Inc., emphasizes that luxury bags can enhance revenue per square foot and draw in foot traffic. “The seamless integration of bags alongside jewelry creates a shopping experience that surprises and delights customers.” By offering pre-owned luxury bags, retail jewelry stores

unlock additional sales opportunities and attract new customers. Eva-Michelle began featuring luxury handbags in October 2020 and notes: “Margins are not like jewelry, but the shock and awe is great - customers do not expect to see the luxury bags when they come into the store.” This unexpected discovery cultivates customer trust, builds loyalty, and encourages repeat visits, resulting in long-term business growth. Ensuring authenticity and maintaining quality control are paramount concerns when venturing into the pre-owned luxury bag market. That’s why it’s essential to procure bags from trusted sources and integrate third-party

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authenticating tools such as Entrupy, which uses AI to verify a bag’s authenticity. Fred Mannella assures retailers: “Our automated processes make it easy for jewelers to buy authenticated luxury bag inventory at the best price with the least friction possible.” By partnering with experts like Two Authenticators Inc., retailers can guarantee the integrity of their offerings while safeguarding their brand image. The convergence of retail jewelry and authentic pre-owned luxury bags offers a compelling proposition for jewelry store owners. Eva-Michelle Spicer reinforces this: “Customers that see bags in the store often want to trade up or pair the bag with a particular piece of jewelry.” As the industry continues to evolve, retailers must adapt and explore new avenues. By embracing the allure of pre-owned luxury bags, jewelry stores can create a memorable shopping experience, increase revenue, and position themselves at the forefront of the luxury retail industry. Learn more about Two Authenticators at 2a.co/scs/home. ssp. Learn more about Spicer Green at spicergreene.com

Jewelry News • November 2023

Caroline 52 Carat Diamond Crystalline Choker Wholesale: $625.00 • MSRP: $1,565.00 Elizabeth 16 Diamond White Earrings Wholesale: $80.00 • MSRP: $240.00 Giant Diamond Crystalline Ring Wholesale: $115.00 • MSRP: $345.00 Grace 04 Diamond White Ring Wholesale: $60.00 • MSRP: $180.00

Jewelry News • November 2023

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Send orders to orders@alphalabgrown.com or call us at (212) 229-2221 All Jewelry is set in 14K Gold.

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Jewelry News • November 2023

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Send orders to orders@gemsone.com or call us at (212) 869-7084 All Jewelry is set in 14K Gold.

Jewelry News • November 2023

The Story Behind the Stone

Lost and Found in Africa

By Diana Jarrett The earliest part of the 20th century experienced a colossal rush for diamonds along Southwest Africa’s Namibian coast. Millions of carats of diamonds were recovered from Namibia’s diamond-rich desert landscape during and after the rush. The enormous enterprise was aided by a growing trend for placing diamond engagement rings on every bride-to-be. Prior to that, diamonds were the privy of the wealthy few, and not commonly used for engagement rings. And while diamond discovery was few and far between, the monied elite depended on dwindling supplies from India and Brazil. By Edwardian times, the concept of diamond engagement rings took a strong hold in both Europe and the United States. Theirs for the Taking Diamond supplies were found so abundantly during Namibia’s heyday that historians say the trove was easily accessible. Crystals were found not deep

Namibian diamond worker examines ancient gold coin. Photo D. Noli within the earth, but rather buried in those massive shifting sands of the Namib desert. This historic period of diamond production found Namibia under German colonization. Today we understand the widespread human rights abuse of indigenous peoples during that time as well.

By WWI, German diamond rights were sold to South Africans, making millionaires out of locals. Out to Sea By the mid-20th century, another even more spectacular diamond recovery system developed in the Namibian territory. This time it was off-shore production. The method’s foundation lay in understanding that the Orange River, traversing through South Africa out to the ocean, had been carrying untold caches of diamond rough out to the ocean beds since time immemorial. It took a while for technology to fully exploit this theory, of course. Today, a joint venture between De Beers and the Namibian government sends diamond trawlers off the Namibian coast with soil sucking devices. Once inside the ship, the ocean bed material is scanned for diamonds.

Reporter revealed the discovery of a long-lost Portuguese ship, The Bom Jesus, which set sail from Lisbon in 1533. Then it vanished forever. During routine diamond mining efforts across Namibia’s arid sand, the ill-fated ship was unearthed to the astonishment of workers. Nearly intact, its booty

Sperrgebiet - The Forbidden Territory in Namibia. Photo Ernst and Baumeir

Handful of some of the thousands of gold coins found on the Bom Jesus. And there are plenty to be found. The crystals are harvested, and the seabeds are returned to their place in a safe and sustainable process. These vessels, run by Debmarine Namibia operate 24 hours a day, 365 days of the year. Thus far, tens of millions of diamond carats have been recovered. Their license extends until 2035 to continue bringing up diamonds from below the ocean floor. Lost and Found Recently, more news from Namibia thrilled followers of this ancient mysterious land. Greek

Diana Jarrett

lay undisturbed for more than 500 years. Shipwrecks were common in that part of the world where violent weather conditions wreak havoc on the most robust seagoing vessels caught in its fierce storms. Experts tell us the ship which got caught on a rock found itself stranded and then became buried in those legendary brutal sandstorms. With coastline waters receding later on, the Bom Jesus (The Good Jesus) reemerged like a phoenix in the sand. Then there’s Gold Now we know what that ship

was carrying after further excavations took place. Gold, and a mass so boggling, it tasks the imagination. The other usual remnants of a sea-faring vessel lay undisturbed for all these centuries. Like a time capsule, excavators turned up compasses, astrological tools, swords, cannons, and silver coins. But the real booty was a treasure chest laden with pure gold. There were copper ingots - to the tune of tens of thousands laying intact. Then two thousand solid gold coins emerged - identifying the find as from a Portuguese ship of 1533. Serendipitously, the area where the ship was uncovered is called Sperrgebiet, German for forbidden territory. Today it’s protected by a closely-watched mining security system. This added layer of intrigue enriches our understanding of the history of diamonds in remote corners of the globe. With each newly uncovered story of diamond’s past, our appreciation for the mysteries of our earth deepen. Award winning trade journalist and gemologist Diana Jarrett is a Registered Master Valuer Appraiser and a member of the Association of Independent Jewellery Valuers (AIJV). She’s a popular speaker at conferences and trade shows. Jarrett writes for trade and consumer publications, online outlets, her blog: Color-n-Ice, and www.jewelrywebsitedesigners.com. Contact her at diana@dianajarrett.com, visit her website at www.dianajarrett.com, and follow her on Facebook and Twitter (Loupey).

Jewelry News • November 2023

Zell

Continued from page 1 worked for an uncle in the jewelry business.” In the 1920s, Leonard’s father and his brothers opened their own jewelry store in downtown Portland. By offering a range of products and services, while aggressively saving profits to reinvest in the business, the Zell brothers opened a second store that same decade. And, by 1939 Larry Zell (Leonard’s father) and his brothers closed their two stores to open a much larger, three-story jewelry store - a building they purchased (along with neighboring retail spaces). “It’s important to remember my father and my uncles were able to do all of this at the height of the Great Depression,” says Leonard. “And, unlike other retailers during that time they never discounted.” Leonard was born on June 28, 1927. He was 12 years old when the new store opened in 1939. Young Leonard didn’t know it at the time but the fatherand-son exchange when the new store opened would forever shape Leonard’s career in retail jewelry sales.

“My father stood next to me and we looked at the many display cases in the showroom,” says Leonard. “He asked me ‘what do we sell in these cases?’ My response was ‘jewelry, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds.’ His response was, ‘no: we sell memories.’ I’ve never forgotten that day.”

had a plan. “To learn jewelry sales from my father we agreed that I would polish jewelry near his sales presentations,” says Leonard. “I intently listened and hung on every word. But I soon found out that taking in all of those sales experiences and knowledge wasn’t enough to increase my sales.”

“Our store had mirrored pillars,” says Leonard. “I would watch how my father smiled. I actually worked on my smile by looking in those mirrors on the pillars. And, over time, it became my sales secret weapon.” Leonard’s early responsibilities included taking in repairs. Given his innate curiosity and attention to detail, Leonard quickly gravitated toward watch repairs. He also learned the more details he could extract from the customer the better the repair work. Over time Leonard developed a thorough knowledge of jewelry parts. From gold karatage to gemstone carats he knew what made jewelry and how it was made. Jewelry sales and other responsibilities were added to young Leonard’s plate. When it came time to sell, Leonard had the product knowledge but needed salesmanship skills. His father

His father’s other piece of sales advice was a winning smile. “Our store had mirrored pillars,” says Leonard. “I would watch how my father smiled. I actually worked on my smile by looking in those mirrors on the pillars. And, over time, it became my sales secret weapon.” Leonard instinctively knew of his father’s inherent goodness. Customers knew this as well. And, Leonard’s father was known for his sense of humor. “When you come from a family that laughs often it’s easy to smile,” says Leonard. The product knowledge, the salesmanship and the smile became a package deal in the early sales days. But the “selling memories, not products” lesson shared with him as a child revisited him as a young man cementing this notion forever in Leonard’s jewelry sales competence. “The final piece of sales knowledge came from a small girl who was shopping for her mother,” says Leonard. “The girl talk-

ed at length about the locket from her grandmother, which she kept close to her heart. As I listened to her words it hit me between the eyes like an arrow. We don’t sell products. We sell memories. How great of a business is that?” After that jewelry sales took off for Leonard. As the decades passed his family members grew older and downtown Portland changed. The family was confronted with ways of modernizing the family business. In 1972, Zell Brothers merged with Fine Jewelers Guild of Zale Corporation. And, Leonard became a store manager for a mall-based Zale’s store. Zale Corporation was so impressed with Leonard’s sales records upper management asked him to conduct sales training with the company’s store managers in Florida. The response to his sales training was so overwhelmingly positive Leonard said to himself, “I can do this for a living,” says Leonard. “And my business took off like a rocket.” Leonard quickly became a hot commodity among retailers. At trade shows, vendors who knew his father also helped Leonard get his sales training start by telling their retail customers to hire Leonard as a sales training consultant. Eventually Leonard started getting better known in the industry. He also wrote for several of the leading trade magazines including, a UK-based industry publication up until the waning years of his consultancy business. During the peak of his sales training days Leonard travelled extensively throughout the US. He also

Email: contact@pickensinc.com 480 E. Paces Ferry Rd. Atlanta, GA. 30305

made several international trips to Canada, the United Kingdom, the Caribbean, Australia and New Zealand, to name a few of the 18 countries where he taught jewelry sales training. But his most memorable international sales trip was to Bahrain. “The Royal Family owned jewelry stores and hotels,” says Leonard. “They treated me like a king. For a Jewish person to be welcomed with such warmth and hospitality was truly memorable.” As Leonard looks back on his decades-long career he finds solace in knowing his life was not just well planned but well lived. One of his biggest accomplishments in life was writing a retail jewelry sales manual. “To my knowledge it’s the only sales manual of its kind out there,” says Leonard. Snippets of his experiences, history and wisdom chronicled in Leonard’s sales manual (and many sales-related trade magazine columns) are listed below. Vendor Relations: “They’re just doing their jobs. Don’t denigrate vendors or their sales staff. As a matter of practice, don’t denigrate people in general.” Listening: “Be a better listener than a talker.” Talking: “Over talk, bore. Under talk, score [the sale].” Product Knowledge vs. Product Romance: “Facts suppress the customer’s emotions. Use product knowledge less. Romance more.” Bad Times: “Whether it’s a bad economy or a global pandemic people still have a need to buy jewelry. It is during these times when sales staff always leads with emotion.” Store Sales Meetings: “Stop with the negativism and be as positive as you can as the store owner or store manager. If you need to talk to someone about lagging sales, do so one-on-one in private. Don’t make an example of them during a sales meeting. Again, don’t denigrate people.” Hiring: “If they have a good, genuine smile and are enthusiastic, they can sell jewelry. Remember, when you have a good smile the world smiles back.” Lab Grown Diamonds: “Don’t restrict your diamond inventory to one type of diamond or the other. Give the customer what they want. It’s all about creating their memory in your store.” Succession Planning: “If your kids don’t want to continue your family retail business perhaps you didn’t educate them well enough. Help them become enthusiastic about jewelry retail.” Sales Secret Weapon: “Have a good smile and use it often.”

back on the fast track!

Jewelry News • November 2023

You spoke and we listened. We’ve been working hard to improve our delivery. We are focused on the items you need the most so we don’t have to compromise our industry leading quality and customer service. We identiﬁed our core jewelry products and built stock of our most popular sizes and metals. We also prioritized our standard mill alloys to ensure they remain on the fast track.

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Furry Friends on the Job!

Jewelry News • November 2023

Do you have a furry friend that helps out in your store? Tell us about it and send a picture to bill@southernjewelrynews.com.

Say hello to Ruby! Ruby is a 3-year-old Staffordshire Terrier mix that works at Haig’s of Rochester Fine Jewelry in Rochester, Michigan. She goes to work with her human, Paul Haig owner of Haig’s. Ruby is a fully trained therapy dog and brings a calming presence to the store. She works hard greeting everybody who enters and is a perfect model for necklaces. She looks especially good in rubies! Additional activities include rolling over for belly rubs, frequently snacking in the office, and taking naps under Paul’s desk.

Greetings from Baby Girl! Baby Girls is a one-year-old Boston Terrier who works at Highlands Jewelers in Sebring, Florida. Here’s Baby Girl “assisting” third generation jeweler Angela at the 50-year-old family business. When Baby Girl’s human, store owner Charles Stuart, brings her to “work” she is in charge of customer service and uses her cuteness to get held or played with by customers. She is always ready to play fetch and provides a daily source of amusement.

Jewelry News • November 2023

Safeguarding High-Value Retailers: Unveiling the cyber risks and eﬀective countermeasures By Greg C Holland-Merten In today’s digital age, highvalue retailers are prime targets for cybercriminals seeking to exploit vulnerabilities and steal valuable customer data. The consequences of a successful cyber attack on a retailer can be devastating, leading to reputational damage, financial losses, and potential legal ramifications. To protect their businesses and customers, high-value retailers must understand the cyber risks they face and implement robust cybersecurity measures. In this article, we will explore the significant cyber risks for high-value retailers and outline effective countermeasures to mitigate these threats. 1. Point-Of-Sale (POS) System Breaches High-value retailers often rely on POS systems to process transactions and store customer data. However, these systems can be vulnerable to breaches if not adequately protected. Cybercriminals may attempt to exploit weak passwords, unpatched software, or infiltrate the network to gain unauthorized access to sensitive information. Retailers must adopt strong password policies, regularly update and patch software, and implement network segmentation to minimize the impact of a potential breach. 2. Phishing Attacks and Social Engineering Phishing attacks are a major threat to retailers. Cybercriminals employ deceptive tactics, such as fraudulent emails, messages, or phone calls, to trick employees into revealing confidential information or granting unauthorized access to systems. High-value retailers must educate employees about recognizing phishing attempts, implement email filters and spam detectors, and establish strict protocols for information sharing and access control. 3. Advanced Persistent Threats (APTs) Sophisticated cybercriminals employ APTs to gain long-term access to retail systems, enabling them to monitor activities, steal data, and initiate further attacks. APTs often involve malware, such as keyloggers or remote access trojans, which can evade traditional security measures. Highvalue retailers should implement multi-layered security solutions, conduct regular vulnerability assessments, and leverage behavioral analytics to detect and respond to APTs effectively.

4. E-Commerce Website Vulnerabilities With the increasing popularity of online shopping, high-value retailers must ensure the security of their e-commerce websites. Vulnerabilities in web applications, such as SQL injections or cross-site scripting (XSS), can expose customer data and compromise transactions. Employing secure coding practices, conducting regular security audits, and implementing web application firewalls are crucial steps to protect against these risks. 5. Insider Threats

Insider threats pose a significant risk to high-value retailers, as employees often have access to sensitive customer data. Whether through malicious intent or unintentional actions, employees can cause significant damage. Retailers should implement access controls based on the principle of least privilege, conduct thorough background checks during the hiring process, and establish monitoring systems to detect suspicious behavior. Conclusion High-value retailers face significant cyber risks in today’s

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Greg “Dutchy” HollandMerten is Director at security specialists HMH Consultants, the only company that is able to combine physical security with cyber security in a dual-Atlantic manner. HMH offers web-based analyses aimed at identifying vulnerabilities within any website, as wells as infrastructure assessments to prevent hackers stealing customer data or corrupting your systems. HMH has a cyber intelligence license to find data breaches (business and personal) already for sale on the dark web. Learn more at hmhconsultants.com.

Jewelry News • November 2023

We are safer together! “I know who you are! GET OUT OF MY STORE!” These words might never have been screamed if not for JHJ CRIME NETWORK. Jewelers are sharing images of bad guys and it’s working. Crimes are being prevented. Tim owns a store in Florida. The minute the Romanian transient thieves walked in his door he jumped into action. Tim recognized them from the Jewelers Helping Jewelers Crime Network, an industry Facebook group aimed at crime prevention. His wife Patsy took pictures of the suspects and yelled for them to get out. Tim called his neighboring jewelers to warn them. Tim

and Patsy also posted images of the suspects on JHJ Crime Alert Network alerting other jewelers and law enforcement. Because of Tim’s post and quick thinking, a jeweler 30 miles away was alert and ready when the bad people came in. My goal today is to bring the industry together to stop jewelry crimes. The more industry members we get to join our crime prevention Facebook group, the safer we all are. We are already preventing crimes and the group was only started 8 months ago! Not only are we preventing crimes, but we are retrieving stolen goods! This is so needed

in our industry. In July, Gaurav Verma was on the JHJ Jewelers CRIME ALERTS Network and saw a jeweler had posted stolen jewelry and watches. He immediately recognized a few of the items as pieces he had bought in his store on Long Island. Verma had kept records on the seller. This critical information on the identity of the thief helped detectives and law enforcement find even more stolen items. Because of the sharing of information, over $100,000 has been recovered and returned. This would not have not been possible without Jewelers Helping Jewelers Crime Network. This is a greatly needed

By Aleah Arundale

tool in our industry. The group is open to everyone so please join. Tell your industry friends too. This next story from a few years ago truly shows the power we have when we work together. A little old Idaho woman survived the Holocaust with only her jewelry. Her most valuable possessions were $50,000 worth of jewelry. She wished to have her jewelry appraised so she could leave it to her children. So she sent it to an appraisal company in Georgia and then....Oh No..... crickets. They ghosted with her most precious possessions! She reached out to a local retail jeweler who, together with Aleah, post-

Aleah Arundale ed on JHJ asking if anyone was close to the address she shipped it to. Gene Callaway came to the rescue! In an hour, Gene and his buddy, the local sheriff showed up at the shipped address just as a man was loading boxes into a truck. Shaken up, the man in the truck said, “Oh yeah, I think I have that. I’ve just been backed up with jobs.” He gave Gene and the sheriff a bag containing the Holocaust survivor’s jewelry and drove off. A happy ending, all because of jewelers connecting and communicating in real time with one another. We are better together. The best way to fight crime is to avoid it. This is Jewelers Helping Jewelers and JHJ CRIME NETWORK’S greatest success. Every Monday a task force of crime prevention jewelers broadcasts one simple message about prevention out to 29,000 jewelers. Messages such as, “Leave your case lights on at night.” “Don’t put all your high-end jewelry in one case” and “Only Show 1 item at a time,” are huge reminders that make us all more secure. We urge jewelers to increase security with nudging posts like “What are you going to do to make your store safer today?” Together we remind each other to train often and practice security protocols weekly. The goal of this article is to get you to join JHJ CRIME NETWORK and to get you involved. If you are not a member, join now. If you are robbed, share your story because when they do catch the criminal, we can put them away longer if more victims come forward. Even if you are not a victim maybe your neighbor was and you can help them in support. Law enforcement and security experts are also members. They’re ready with advice on the best cameras and how to file police reports. Please join. Please invite your friends. Invite law enforcement. Share and learn. It’s working and we just started. We truly are safer together. Join the JHJ CRIME NETWORK at facebook.com/groups/ jhjcrime.

Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

JSA recommendations for smash and grab robberies armed with guns and knives. Stay out of their way. 2. Showcases with burglaryresistant, laminated glass on the front and sides, and special frames, can withstand many blows with a hammer and can prevent or reduce large losses. JSA has not seen robbers take retaliatory action when laminated glass is used and robbers are unable to enter a showcase or are able to take only a small amount of merchandise from a small hole. Furthermore, robbers frequently cut themselves on small holes and leave behind valuable DNA evidence from blood. 3. Having an audible glass

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA), a non-profit trade association providing crime prevention information and services to the jewelry industry since 1883, has reported smash and grab robberies are currently an extreme and dangerous problem for the industry. In a recent JSA Crime Alert bulletin, titled Smash and Grab Robberies Terrorizing U.S. Jewelry Industry, the organization offers these recommendations regarding smash and grab robberies: 1. Do not resist in a smash and grab robbery. In addition to sledgehammers and other dangerous tools, the suspects may be

breakage alarm on your showcases can scare smash and grab robbers away, who are trying to remain in a target store for less than a minute. 4. Having buzzers on the door when possible can help to keep out potential robbers. 5. Hiring armed, off-duty police officers in the store can be a deterrent to smash and grab robbers. 6. Spreading high end watch and loose diamond merchandise among several showcases, and not concentrated in one showcase, can reduce the amount of the loss in a smash and grab robbery. 7. It can be prudent not to

display an entire inventory of highly targeted product, such as heavy gold chains, but rather keep some quantity in the safe. 8. Surveillance photos from eye-level cameras inside and outside the store, including of cars in the parking lot, provide excellent evidence for police. Ceiling cameras too often capture useless photos of the top of heads or hats. 9. Keeping a log book of suspicious incidents, and putting aside and saving surveillance video of suspicious incidents, can be a great help in subsequent investigations. 10. Sharing information and photos rapidly among local jewel-

ers and police, and with JSA, regarding casings and suspects can help prevent crime and assist with investigations. 11. Retail jewelry stores in malls should bring to the attention of mall security the pattern of smash and grab jewelry robberies, discussing issues of prevention, coverage by surveillance cameras inside the mall and in the parking lot, and protocols if such a crime occurs. 12. Some jewelers are using tracking devices in jewelry pads and boxes in order to track stolen product. For more information about the Jewelers’ Security Alliance or crime data, trends and prevention information, call JSA at 800-5370067, email jsa2@jewelerssecurity.org or visit jewelerssecurity. org.

JAPAC

Continued from page 6

Dena, the Gem boss Golden Girl, is the daughter of J. Frank Golden. Born into the industry, she started working at a young age. Her first job was to search for stones that had fallen onto the carpet, and she gradually progressed to stuffing Christmas cards for all of JFG's customers. Her role at JFG has remained largely unchanged since she took over the business and daily operations following her father's retirement in 1995. JFG has undergone numerous changes over the years and is currently a team of 4 women lovingly known as the Golden Girls! The holidays are fast approaching and it's time to start thinking of stock for your stores. Dena loves to brainstorm. She doesn't just sell color, she is a friend; call her today and ask "Dena I am looking to sell more color, how do I do that?" Dena would be delighted to put together a 30-day store memo for you to display over the holiday season!! ld EmeraColor

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e The Color Palett of an Artist

Also available • Cushions • Trillions • Hearts • Cabochons • Lab Reports • Trapiche

Also available • Emerald Shapes • Cushions B • Beads A AA AAA • Black $11.25 ROUND $15.00 $37.50 • Semi-Black 14.63 $60.00 3 mm 19.50 color, • Boulder 48.75 78.00 AAA: Dark green 3.5 20.25 • Ethiopian well cut and has 27.00 67.50 minor inclusions 29.25 108.00 • Mexican Fire 4 39.00 97.50 a dark A 156.00 • Doublets 4.5 42.75 AA: Ranges from good AA 57.00 324.00 3.5 AAA • Triplets green color, 142.50 432.00 $90.00 ROUND 69.75 228.00 1,080.00 $120.00 5 93.00 cut with moderate 1,728.00 $300.00 429.75 mm 232.50 4 150.75 $480.00 a red Top 573.00 372.00 B 201.00 3 mm inclusions to color, fire (play5.5 85.50 1,432.50 AAA (scarce): cut and A 502.50 PLE PUR AAA: Intense usually 2,292.00 114.00 AA 804.00 798.75 medium green color, well 4.5 285.00 317.25 AAA 3.5 of-color), 1,065.00 456.00 423.00 $60.00 ROUND 2,662.50 6 well cut with minor eye clean. $75.00 1,057.50 4,260.00 BL has many colors 596.25 $150.00 1,692.00 1,136.25 B 5 795.00 inclusions 105.00 4 $243.00 1,515.00 A color, (scarce) 120.00 1,987.50 3 mm 3,787.50 AA AAA (very scarce): AA: Fine red ranges 240.00 3,180.00 6,060.00 AAA a 800-241-2165 1,653.75 390.00 5.5 4.5 Intense blue color, 18.00 OVAL good cut, (play2,205.00 A: Ranges from 156.00 1,980.00 1,485.00 3.5 24.00 5,512.50 234.00 4,950.00 AA: Strong fire usually green 60.00 well cut and eye eye clean to 8,820.00 510.00 medium from 7,920.00 2,160.00 96.00 6-9224 40.50 6 of-color), 831.00 204.00 5 2,880.00 770-94 54.00 5x3 clean. 330.00 with 7,200.00 4 color, fair cut with minor inclusions. B 135.00 750.00 several colors 11,520.00 A 216.00 5.5 1230.00 en.com 72.00 6x4 moderate inclusions AA a 375.00 4,770.00 3,577.50 4.5 96.00 a white or clear AAA 630.00 AA (scarce): Good 11,925.00 A: Ranges from www.jfrankgold 240.00 or to a lighter greenwith $447.00 $335.25 OVAL (light 1,650.00 19,080.00 color color, 384.00 114.75 background red blue 561.00 6 $1,117.50 2,685.00 good 7x5 153.00 and lden.com 729.00 color, good cut $1,788.00 5 821.25 382.50 B 5x3 mm 2,133.00 dark), well cut 1,095.00 (play612.00 good cut with to A 171.00 sales@jfrankgo 3,375.00 2,737.50 minor inclusions 8x6 A: Medium fire 228.00 AA 750.00 5.5 4,380.00 eye clean. 570.00 minor inclusions AAA 1,200.00 6x4 1,901.25 $193.50 of-color), generally 912.00 dark a 294.75 2,850.00 OVAL 2,535.00 purplish $258.00 from 7 x 9 slightly Ranges 393.00 a a 4,200.00 6,337.50 B: $645.00 more than one 982.50 6 10,140.00 A: Ranges from to 357.75 color, good 1,572.00 7x5 4x3 mm $1,032.00 green color, fair 438.75 477.00 10x8 color with a 585.00 medium light Use our Standard red 1,192.50 B cut with inclusions cut and eye clean. 1,908.00 A B ized 2,340.00 1,462.50 621.00 697.50 white or clear 5x3 dark blue color, A AA Color green 11x9 light 930.00 828.00 Matchin a to AA AAA with $247.50 red g Chart 2,325.00 background with good cut AAA PEARfor accurate $330.00 3,312.00 2,070.00 B: A purplish 3,720.00 $111.00 color, good cut $825.00 OVAL 12x10 5x4 1,497.00 1,122.75 ordering $138.00 clean to minor to pinkish red . 720.00 540.00 3,742.50 $309.00 5x3 mm $1,320.00 B moderate inclusions 5,988.00 B: Light fire (play-of297.00 $408.00 A inclusions. 6x4 1,800.00 color, good to 372.00 5x3 mm may have AA 3,690.00 2,767.50 2,880.00 color), 798.00 minor 4 x AAA 6 9,225.00 $15.75 1,095.00 blue fair cut and 1,887.00 1,415.25 14,760.00 PEAR 585.00 $21.00 more than one 6x4 B: Light or dark 7x5 4,717.50 Larger sizes 885.00 $52.50 to moderate 7,548.00 $84.00 1,905.00 28.13 B color and has color with a good 7x5 5x3 mm 3,000.00 37.50 A always available. inclusions. 2,085.00 1,410.00 7x5 93.75 B AA a white or clear to fair cut and 150.00 5,055.00 A AAA $292.50 6,801.00 56.25 6x4 AA PEAR $390.00 background minor to moderate 8x6 75.00 AAA $975.00 187.50 $510.00 $382.50 EMERALD Larger sizes 774.00 300.00 83.25 inclusions. 5x3 mm $1,560.00 $1,275.00 7x5 1,032.00 Per Carat Pricing 111.00 $2,040.00 B 1,057.50 2,580.00 277.50 always available. 5x3 mm A 444.00 4,128.00 Larger sizes 3,525.00 1,410.00 carat: 6x4 8x5 AA 139.50 5,640.00 2,730.00 2,047.50 186.00 AAA $150 - 750 per always available. 6x4 Larger sizes 2,472.75 6,825.00 465.00 with $204.00 $156.00 PEAR 744.00 200.25 10,920.00 $450.00 8,242.50 3,297.00 7x5 Commercial quality 9x6 267.00 always available. $540.00 204.00 13,188.00 667.50 green Per Carat Pricing 5x3 mm B 330.00 7x5 1,068.00 A 750.00 a light to medium 10x7 B AA 1,035.00 per carat: A 288.00 6x4 Per Carat Pricing AAA B color. $150 - 2,400 480.00 AA HEART $159.00 $119.25 A AAA 1,200.00 average $55.13 $397.50 Per Carat Pricing AA 1,956.00 carat: $73.50 MARQUISE $636.00 Commercial to AAA 227.25 $22.50 7x5 $30 - 75 per - 3,000 per $183.75 3x3 mm 303.00 HEART purplish$900 $30.00 $294.00 carat: with 757.50 121.50 $75.00 quality; pinkish, to above 4x2 mm 162.00 $150 - 900 per 1,212.00 B $120.00 Mostly white base 47.25 Price 405.00 carat: Average 450.00 3.5x3.5 A 4x4 mm dark 63.00 r 648.00 600.00 AA red to red color. that 157.50 Dark to medium 216.00 5x2.5 light play-of-colo 1,500.00 AAA 252.00 color average quality 288.00 2,400.00 or a light 94.50 5x5 $204.00 $174.00 EMERALD 720.00 depends on size, 4x4 medium a blue (Thai) color 126.00 $450.00 from carat: 497.25 1,152.00 ranges 315.00 $597.00 B 663.00 486.00 6x3 (ceylon) $100 - 250 per 504.00 color. 137.25 and clarity. A 5x3 mm 810.00 to medium light 6x6 183.00 base with AA 1728.00 2,652.00 1,657.50 light to dark green in 457.50 7x3.5 AAA White or crystal 2,250.00 $56.25 per 732.00 color; Fancy colors 6x4 1,407.00 1,055.25 $75.00 MARQUISE r 7x7 per $2,700 - 6,000 1,554.00 1,029.00 $187.50 are - 7,500 good play-of-colo 5,628.00 3,517.50 4,125.00 Sapphire to $300.00 fine red $3,750 B 114.75 this price range Synthetic Staraverage 8x4 5,484.00 4x2 mm 153.00 A carat: Good to 7x5 above 382.50 Above carat: AA Rubelite Tourmaline carat:Tahitian Pearl B 612.00 promotional to AAA $300 - 600 per $7.88 A color; above average Peach Tourmaline 189.00 5x2.5 B that ranges with MARQUISE $10.50 AA Ruby 252.00 A fine quality nice stones or crystal base $26.25 average quality. Lavender/Lilac Sapphire Tanzanite AAA Very 630.00 White $87.75 AA a $42.00 quality. Pearl to 15.75 r 267.75 1,008.00 SQUARE $117.00 Rutilated Quartz or medium AAA 4x2 mm Green Tourmaline $60.00 21.00 357.00 from a 5x3 $292.50 per Lemon/Lime Quartz Teal Sapphire $75.00 in rings, earrings Amethyst 52.50 MARQUISE a very bright play-of-colo 892.50 to use Sapphire Color-Change Peridot 150.75 color. 84.00 $150.00 $1,200 - 3,000 mm Pearl $468.00 1,428.00 2x2Mabé Greened 201.00 Sapphire darkerTealgreen $243.00 24.75 5x2.5 Tourmaline 105.00 6x3 Blue Topaz 767.25 to fine 502.50 Coral 33.00 4x2 mm 120.00 Coralpendants. Pink 804.00 - 1,500 per carat: carat: Medium 82.50 240.00 Agate 2,557.50 1,023.00 Half Pearl Scarabs $700 x2.5 Citrine 2.5 211.50 Zircon Eye 132.00 69.75 carat Blue Madeira Tiger 390.00 from 4,092.00 1,665.00 282.00 Sapphire grade; very CZ - all colors per carat Heliodor Pink 93.00 6x3 $9,000 per 156.00 7x3.5 5x2.5 2,220.00 Opal quality, ranging Pearl 705.00 Alexandrite Seed348.75 Select to gem 234.00 232.50 5,550.00 $6,600 to Boulder TopazVery fine to 372.00 510.00 8,880.00 119.25 to play-of-color 465.00 Semi-Black Demantoid GarnetA very fineHematite Pink Spinel 3x3Malachite 1,128.00 and up: Opal 8x4 831.00 180.00 8x4 medium dark blue 159.00 Almandite Garnet lively, intense 1,162.50 282.00 and up: 6x3 397.50 Brown Sapphire Marcasite Tourmalinequality with a Fancy 630.00 636.00 stone; Garnet Dendritic Quartz Pink Topaz B 200.25 Birthstones exceptional 3.5x3.5 Fire1,860.00 630.00 medium blue; Amber 10x5 1,029.00 Quartzgreen Opal 840.00 Simulated 267.00 ™ exceptional qualityHessonite BrownATopaz Mexican Tourmalinated 348.00 7x3.5 to deep AA 667.50 red Emerald Pink Tourmaline 480.00 in this price range rich green AAA 1,068.00 colors 3,360.00 2,100.00 Amethyst Shell Cameo Amethyst 1,200.00 Garnet 12x6 A rich red to deep Howlite 4x4Mint Green Grossularite to fine Carnelian $33.75 $45.00 SQUARE 375.00 1,956.00 scarce. Ethiopian Opal Prasiolite color;Tsavorite above average 630.00 8x4 areIolite Ametrine $112.50 Indicolite Tourmaline Smoky Quartz scarce - but every $180.00 168.75 1,650.00 color; Cats-Eye Alexandrite Moonstone Turquoise Sapphire Photos 2x2 mm Sapphire Color 225.00 2,685.00 Fancy Purple and to have quality. Kunzite Andalusite 562.50 10x5 Imitation Gemstones South Sea Pearl Gem Facts effort is made 900.00 Cats-Eye Chrysoberyl Morganite Coral Unakite Feldspar Pyrope Garnet 3x3 504.00 Rhodolite per carat Apatite Imperial Topaz Spessartine Garnet 672.00 B these in stock Kunzite Cats-Eye Quartz Mother-of-Pearl White Opal A 1,680.00 $3,600 Fire Agate Quartz 2,688.00 Sapphire to Digital Catalog Aquamarine Iolite Sphene fine Tourmaline x4 4 Topaz Sapphire Morganite AA Very Cats-Eye AAA Mystic White up: and Fire Opal Rainbow Fluorite Spinel HEART/ with Beryl Iron Oxide in Quartz Spinel ads Rose Quartz Ceylon Sapphire Nephrite White Topaz exceptional quality Fluorite Rainbow Moonstone Tanzanite $120.00 $105.00 TRILLION Birthstones Jadeite blue Star Diopside Wallpaper Downlo Sapphire $240.00 Chalcedony Opal Yellow Sapphire an intense deep $390.00 156.00 Freshwater Pearl Raspberry Sapphire 3x3 mm 234.00 Bi-color Amethyst Jasper Star Sapphire Spinel 510.00 Topaz in stock). Calculator ChampagneApatite Opal Doublet Yellow Topaz color (Always Garnet Red Coral 831.00 Onyx Ruby Stone Weight Also available • Emerald Cuts • Cushions • Trillions • Cabochons • Matched Pairs

Also available • Cushions • Squares • All Fancy Colors • Padparadscha • Color Shift • Cabochons • Matched Pairs • Stars (all colors) • Lab Reports

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Members represented a variety of jewelry firms from across the country, including: Brian Alter, Alter’s Gem Jewelry, Beaumont, TX; Lawrence and Katy Bock, Bachendorf’s, Dallas, TX; Jon Bridge, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Seattle, WA; Trish Carruth, Your Personal Jeweler, Royal Oak, MI; Bill Farmer Jr., Farmer’s Jewelers, Lexington, KY; Myriam Gumuchian, Gumuchian, New York, NY; Joseph Molfese, Bella Cosa Jewelers, Willowbrook, IL (JAPAC Chair); Isreal Morales, Sky Diamond Jewelers, New Windsor, NY; Constance Polamalu, Zachary’s Jewelers, Annapolis, MD; Tobey Ritchie, Harry Ritchie’s, Eugene, OR; and Oliver Stip, CD Peacock, Oak Brook, IL. The delegation was led by Jewelers of America President & CEO David J. Bonaparte and JA’s Director of Marketing & Communications Molly Fallon, along with Tim Haake, Managing Director of Haake & Associates, JA’s long-term government affairs firm. Jewelers of America also welcomed leadership from the American Gem Trade Association as CEO John W. Ford joined the fly-in for the second year in a row. Jewelers of America also hosted a D.C.-Member Meet-up the day before the fly-in which included a tour of the Library of Congress and a cocktail party featuring renowned political pollster Ed Goeas, President and CEO of The Tarrance Group. To learn more about Jewelers of America legislative advocacy and JAPAC, visit www.jewelers. org/ja/advocacy.

Jewelry News • November 2023

SCAN THE QR CODE TO SEE OUR INVENTORY

LAB DIAMONDS AS LOW AS -99.15% OFF! Over 5000 diamonds on hand Short and long term memo programs available

IGI Lab Cert#

Shape

Weight

Col/Clar

Cut Polish

595393304 595393293 583317268 578318659 576351968 589393640 559297513 551209462 597356606 597398528 597398524 597362266 550245304 591367807 519231672 586368481 502141169 559297491 559201504 564360982 591335918 598372077 598321817 579367354 573319476 559298951 593381243 587316573 570369768 587388642 578312712 597362243 598321820 581341385 566331872 555266156 566331805 560230929 508142783

BR BR BR BR BR BR PR PR PR PS PS PS PS PS EM EM EM CU CU RAD RAD MQ MQ MQ MQ MQ MQ HS HS HS HS AS OV OV OV OV OV OV OV

7.00 6.04 5.01 4.20 3.61 1.20 7.03 6.07 2.66 7.02 6.00 5.01 4.00 2.06 5.50 2.00 1.64 5.01 2.00 5.03 2.01 7.03 6.04 5.01 4.45 3.01 2.76 7.00 6.02 5.01 2.37 2.96 8.03 6.01 5.01 4.44 4.01 3.61 2.10

F-VS1 G-VS1 F-VS2 F-VS1 F-VS1 E-VS1 D-VS1 G-VS2 G-VS1 F-VS1 G-VS2 F-VS1 G-VS2 F-SI1 E-VVS1 F-VS1 E-SI1 E-VS1 F-SI1 F-VS1 G-VS2 F-VS2 F-VS1 G-VS2 G-VS1 F-VS1 F-VS2 H-VS2 G-VS1 G-VS1 E-VS2 E-VS1 G-VS1 F-VS2 F-VS2 F-VS1 F-VS2 H-VS1 H-VS1

EX ID ID EX EX ID

EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX

Symmetry Discount% Depth%

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-99.05 -99.10 -99.10 -99.10 -99.05 -98.00 -98.10 -99.00 -98.55 -98.90 -99.10 -99.05 -99.05 -98.55 -98.20 -98.60 -98.45 -99.10 -98.75 -99.25 -98.75 -98.95 -98.95 -98.95 -98.90 -98.55 -98.15 -98.15 -99.05 -99.05 -98.40 -98.30 -98.70 -99.15 -99.05 -99.05 -99.00 -98.80 -98.55

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$3757.25 $2636.46 $2209.41 $1606.50 $1114.59 $237.60 $8080.98 $2336.95 $597.84 $3976.83 $2079.00 $2451.14 $1045.00 $379.35 $6187.50 $476.00 $226.24 $2525.04 $317.50 $1942.84 $364.31 $3321.68 $3266.13 $2025.29 $1517.45 $1091.12 $791.43 $4079.25 $2573.55 $2141.78 $625.68 $905.76 $4697.55 $2298.82 $2141.78 $1497.39 $1263.15 $866.40 $395.85

EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX EX

22 W 48th St, New York, NY 10036, USA Call: (212)-764-7841 | Email: sales@elgdiamonds.com Website: www.sanghavisolitaire.com/Home/DailySpecial

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Jeweler’s Insurance: The wrong time to ask the right questions! By Robert James, FGA, GG It is the time that all jewelers dread. You arrive in the morning to open your store and are met by police cars, a back door breached, a window broken, or a roof compromised. Inside you find destroyed showcases, broken glass all over the floor, inventory missing, and an empty safe standing open. Or you drive up to your store only to see fire engines and smoke blurring the scene. It’s a good thing you have an insurance policy. But wait! Where is my policy? Am I covered for all of this?

Where do I call to get help with my claim? What am I supposed to do while I wait for the insurance adjuster? How am I going to prove what I lost? Of course, this is the worst time to be asking any of these questions. All of these should have been answered long before this particular morning. Many of you already have the answers. For those who don’t know exactly what steps to take after a catastrophic event, here are some steps to take now to have the answers ready when you need them.

1. Make duplicate copies of all inventory invoices, bookkeeping, employee records, and computer backups. In other words, make backups of your backups in either hard copy or digital. Keep them current. Do this on an ongoing basis, every week is best, to make sure the information is up to date at any point in time. 2. Take 360-degree videos of your store including work area, back room, sales floor, offices, everything. Take your time and move slowly with the video. This will serve as the fastest means for an insurance adjuster to determine the fixtures and condition of

your store before the event. 3. Keep all insurance and back up documents away from the store in a secure location that you can easily access in case of a loss. This includes everything: insurance policy, proof of inventory, video documentation of premises, the backups of your backups - everything. 4. Read your insurance policy carefully and understand your responsibilities to mitigate losses after the event. 5. Understand in advance how claims will be handled after the event occurs. Talk to your insurance agent to make sure you

understand the claims handling procedures of your policy. Know what is covered and what may not be covered. 6. Know in advance where to call your adjuster in case of a catastrophic event. 7. Call your insurer’s claims office before you start cleaning up. Secure the area to mitigate further loss, but do not start the clean up until the adjuster has the opportunity to inspect and evaluate the damage fully. 8. Once you evaluate your policy coverage and how claims are handled, you may want to consider getting a Business Umbrella Policy. This is a special policy that provides coverage above the limits of your regular Business Owners Policy (BOP). It can provide extra liability coverage for your store on many levels. These are just some points to help you be prepared when a loss occurs. As a Property and Casualty Insurance Adjuster, I have experienced far too many jewelers who waited until after a catastrophic event to even know where their insurance policy was located. Very often, it burned up in the fire since they kept it in a desk drawer rather than a safe place off premises. Many did not even know how or where to contact the claims office of their insurer. Do not be that jeweler. There is already a lot of Joel stress McF and confusion when a major loss Des occurs. That is not the time to decide you need to find out how to Experie file an insurance 50+ claimYears and what Mentor Class Jewe you will need to do so. Take thoseCreator steps now.of the Trades Bench In addition to a Jewelers Property Cha and Casualty Adjuster, Robert James, FGA, GG is President of Serving Our the International School of Wholesale GemCAD, High-End ology (gemologypro.com), a gem- Set ological education Fullorganization Custom Servic that offers world Consultation class gemology Servi training and boasts world’s & the Mentor Program lowest tuition rate. They are innovators in affordable, quality JMDJewelry.com distance education in gemology (984) 212-2217 MentorJewele and jewelry appraisal, based on 1000 Novus Lane Un their certified insurance industry NC 275 education deliveryChapel system. Hill ISG’s online gemology courses are considered tops for quality, affordability and ease 4x5 of learning. Joel McFadden Design

Serving Our Wholesale Clients CAD, High-End Setting, Full Custom Services, Consultation Services & Mentor Programs JMDJewelry.com (984) 212-2217 2x2

What’s New

Jewelry News • November 2023

ASHI launches 2023 Holiday Sweepstakes ASHI is excited to announce the launch of their 2023 Holiday Sweepstakes to assist its retail partners in reaching their target demographic and increasing their sales through social media. Retailers will be able to attract current and prospective customers to their stores by utilizing Social Media outlets such as Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Twitter, etc. The Sweepstakes is free and provides ASHI’s retail partners with a unique marketing opportunity to broaden their client base as social media postings are liked and shared by customers, their friends and family. Additionally, retailers capture consumer data, such as email addresses and demographic information, which can serve as the groundwork for building customer relationships. “This form of marketing can drastically improve the retailers brand and potentially enable them to increase their sales!” says Mr. Pandya, partner at ASHI. “ASHI wants our retail partners to be known as the holiday brand in

their market.” ASHI has partnered with Avalon Solution to develop the first vertically integrated Social Media Sweepstakes Technology Platform - JewelSweep™ - for the jewelry industry, allowing retailers to take advantage of this unique branding and marketing channel. ASHI invites all of its retail partners to participate in this innovative and free marketing initiative. The Sweepstakes started

on October 16, 2023, and will end on January 2, 2024. One winner will be picked at random from the retailer page with the most Sweepstakes submissions on January 10, 2024. One lucky customer, chosen from the winning retailer’s pool of entries, will win the grand prize of a beautiful Mixed Fancy Shape Pendant crafted in 14K yellow gold, with a MSRP of $3,995. ASHI also has a Custom Sweepstakes option, which en-

sures a winner from the retailers’ specific store. This gives retailers the freedom to market the sweepstakes as they want while significantly growing followers on their social media platforms. For more information on the Custom option, contact ASHI. Sweepstakes Highlights: • Customized Sweepstakes URL: Participating retailers will receive a personalized link to a Holiday Sweepstakes Entry Landing Page, which will be cus-

tomized with store logo, image, and company information. • Social Media Sweepstakes Banner: Access to banners and images designed for the Holiday Sweepstakes. Banners will be available in a variety of sizes to meet the posting requirements of various social media platforms. • Sweepstakes Data Access: Access consumer data generated from each individual retailer’s Sweepstakes landing page through a unique login and password for future marketing purposes. The consumer data collected from your custom landing page will be accessible only to you. • Redirection to Retailers Micro-Websites: The retailers logo placed on their Sweepstakes landing page, will automatically get redirected to the retailers micro-website. • Digital Marketing Library: Access to ASHI’s digital marketing library, containing digital images of ASHI styles for posting Please see ASHI page 34

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What’s New

Jewelry News • November 2023

Metal Marketplace International® releases 2 new catalogs Metal Marketplace International®, a Philadelphia-based karat gold and silver jewelry contract manufacturer since 1978, is excited to support retailers during the holiday season with their new 2023-2025 Stock Catalog. “This year’s Stock Catalog is one of our largest product expansions in the last decade, adding 400+ new styles of 10K, 14K, 18K gold and Italian sterling silver jewelry to our showroom,” said Metal Marketplace founder & president Tony Acquaviva. “Our deep product inventory of core jewelry ranges from classic pendant chains, heavy links, diamond cut rope, hoop earrings, studs, fancy necklaces and bracelets and religious pendants. We ensure that 80% of what our customers sell is 100% of what we offer.” New styles are available online at www.metalmarketplace. com. Added perk - Metal Marketplace’s quarterly Triple Play Program currently features buy now

and pay December 26. Metal Marketplace’s 2nd Catalog is their 2023 Custom Links Catalog. With an American-based factory, they offer 33,000 custom-made items in

12 different metals and colors, including 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K, sterling silver, platinum, palladium, white, yellow and rose gold, two-tone and tri-color. No inventory is required to offer this

Artistry, Ltd. releases 2024 Catalog (CHICAGO) - Artistry has announced the release of its 2024 catalog, which began shipping to customers in September. The 156-page catalog includes Artistry’s products in precious color, semi precious color, pearl, diamond, gold and sterling silver. The catalog pricing reflects $1,900 per oz gold at triple key. With an updated layout, Artistry’s 2024 catalog showcases complete and concise product information, allowing retail jewelers to confidently use the 2024 catalog on the sales floor and with their customers. “We are very excited to present our 2024 catalog to our existing and prospective customers,” said Susan Klemt Williams, Artistry’s President. “We recognize how influential printed catalogs are for our clients and are thrilled to be able to provide them with our catalog this year.” To learn more about Artistry, Ltd., and to gain access to the 2024 catalog and interactive website, please visit Artistrylimited.com. More information about Graymoor Lane Designs, Artistry’s branded collection, can be found at Graymoorlanedesigns.com.

aSHi

Continued from page 33 on social media outlets. • Marketing on Social Media: Participants can create a “buzz” and attract more customers for the Holiday Sweepstakes by posting content-related images/videos and going live on Facebook, Instagram, etc. to announce the lucky winner. Utilizing marketing features provided by social media gives retailers an advantage and allows them to successfully sell to their target demographic. Julie Pyne, Vice-President of Merchandising at Dunkin’s Dia-

monds in Ohio stated: “ASHI’s sweepstakes program was an amazing touch to Dunkin’s Diamonds summer marketing program. The program attracted a lot of traffic to our website, and social media pages and helped increase sales. It was definitely a wonderful program to be involved in. The best part about the sweepstakes? It was completely free! We generated great exposure and profits with zero investment!” “Today’s successful jewelers expect and deserve more from their vendors than the normal,” said Mr. Pandya. “ASHI is dedicated to going the extra mile for our retail partners and wants to support them through our Digital

Marketing JewelSweep™ platform. Retailers get an edge by providing such exciting social media opportunities to their existing and potential customers, which ultimately helps them in increasing their sales!” To participate in this unique marketing opportunity, fill out the Holiday Sweepstakes Retailer Online Participation Form at sweepstakes.ashidiamonds.com/ participationrequest. All participating retailers will be approved by ASHI. To learn more about the Sweepstakes Program, contact ASHI Diamonds at 212-319-8291 or email sweepstakes@ashidiamonds.com.

collection to your customers and delivery takes approximately 6-8 weeks. “Our catalog-duo offers the best of both worlds to jewelers during the holiday season: core

best sellers and the luxury of custom ordering countless styles,” said Acquaviva. Gina Bogda, Director of Business Development, who is also Tony’s daughter, adds that the company’s pride goes beyond the new catalogs. “As a 45-year old business, we are very proud that we have never lost that personal connection with our customers. Joe Evich, Barry Hochman and Alex Grosman are our seasoned sales executives, carrying nearly a combined 100 years of experience in the industry. They lead our team and connect directly with customers daily guiding them on purchase decisions.” To learn more about Metal Marketplace, view their catalogs digitally or apply for an account online, visit www.metalmarketplace.com and to contact their team directly or receive a complimentary set of catalogs, call 800523-9191 or email mmisales@ metalmarketplace.com.

GIA adds ‘Hanadama’ quality range comment to all Pearl Classiﬁcation Reports (CARLSBAD, Calif.) - GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is adding a report comment for the historical trade term ‘Hanadama’ to distinguish a designated quality range of cultured Akoya pearls. GIA’s analysis of the industry’s classification of pearls from the Akoya complex pearl oysters resulted in the identification of the quality range that was commonly agreed upon within the pearl trade as ‘Hanadama.’ In order to receive the ‘Hanadama’ comment, cultured akoya pearls must display a combination of all of the following GIA Pearl Value Factors classification ranges: Round to near-round shape, white body-color (with or without overtone), excellent luster, clean to lightly spotted surface, excellent to very good matching, and sufficient nacre thickness and quality. When a pearl, strand or jewelry item meets the carefully defined parameters for ‘Hanadama,’ a comment that states, These pearls fall into the select quality range that is known in the trade as ‘Hanadama’ (or a variation thereof) will be added to any GIA pearl classification report. “We’ve undertaken a thorough exploration into the original and contemporary applications of the term ‘Hanadama’ along with gathering extensive input from industry insiders,” said Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer. “Incorporating this historically important industry term into the report underpins our commitment to robust laboratory services and reports that allow consumers to make more informed choices in purchasing Akoya cultured pearls.” There will be no additional fee for this change. To learn more about GIA’s pearl reports and services, visit www.gia.edu/gem-labservice/pearl. Learn more about GIA at GIA.edu.

Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Jewelry News Classiﬁeds SERVICES TO THE TRADE

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Southern & Mid-America Jewelry News

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Jewelry News • November 2023

Jewelry News Classiﬁeds

GOODS FOR SALE

SHOWCASES FOR SALE CUSTOM MADE JEWELRY SHOWCASES FOR SALE

Approx. 8yrs old with black marble, 80 linear ft of ﬂoor cases. 2 of them are sit down showcases with cushioned benches for the customers. There is a 6ft matching service counter. 30 linear ft of wall cases. All cases and wall cabinets are lighted with locks to match.

Repairs/Services to the Trade • In need of a Sales Reps or Bench Jeweler • Selling your store • Goods for Sale • Wanted to Buy items

HAVE YOU TRIED OUR CLASSIFIEDS? The SJN/MAJN classiﬁeds ads are a GREAT way to advertise. Call 336-389-1950 or email martha@southernjewelrynews.com

Advertisers Index AGTA................................31 Anna Zuckerman................19 Apollo Manfacturing.......23 Ashi..............................3 C.G. Creations...................29,33 Cargo Hold...........................7 Casker.................................14 Darling Imports.....................17 E-filigree..........................2 Everlee......................18 Essential Lab Grown.........31 Gal Interiors.......................4 GemsOne........................20,21 GN Diamond...........Bellywrap HH Gold...........................15 Hoover and Strong................25 IDD Jewelry......................11 Int’l School of Gemology(ISG).26 J. Frank Golden & Assoc.....30 J.B. Bhanderi..........................9 JewelryStoreMarketers...32 JewelryWebsite Designers.....26 Joel McFadden Designs......32 Kim International..................5 Metal Marketplace................27 NAJA.................................4 Namano...........................24 Pearls of Wisdom....15,18,22,38 Pickens.................................24 RDI.................................13 RJO.....................................16 Saban Onyx...........................35 SoutheasternFindings..........22 Stuller..............................40 Sunstone...............................39 TD Retail........................8 Tim Roark.............................6 Variety Gems................12 UPMR...............................28 Wilkerson...........................10

STORE FOR SALE 38 Year Established Jewelry Store for Sale, in Tampa, FL located in Upscale Carrolwood area. The owner is retiring. We also offer custom work & repairs. Great reputation, with enormous clientele base. For details call 813-968-8715; WED - SAT 10 am to 7pm or email: spages1035@aol.com

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SJN

POSITIONS AVAILABLE Bench Jeweler Opportunity Join the Vons Jewelry team! Full time position at 3rd generation Jewelry store in Lima, Ohio. Open Tuesday thru Saturday. 10 days paid vacation and 5 sick days. 6 paid holidays. 401k with match, profit sharing. Health Insurance. Minimum 3 years bench experience. Send resume to dennis@vonsjewelry.com JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES The Nation’s Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K, and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

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We are seeking experienced Jewelry Sales Reps/Wholesalers, for travel. Diamond Jewelry manufacturing & customer service team available to increase sales. Catalog & marketing material provided. Send resume: info@diasunjewelry.com or 888.342.7861

We are seeking an experienced Bench Jeweler to work at our store in downtown Gillette, WY

We are experiencing exceptional growth and are looking for someone who is eager to not only repair jewelry but also help design and create beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces. The quality of what comes off your bench and out of our doors is top priority for the entire team. All tools provided. Option of a 4 or 5 day work week with great store hours! Work with amazing colored gemstones, tourmaline, sapphire, tanzanite, etc. We love color! Excellent opportunities for bonuses. Vacation time and health insurance, $60,000-$80,000 yearly. Responsibilities include: Repair and create gold, silver, and platinum jewelry. Ability to set and design with all types of precious and semi-precious stones. Interact with team members with a professional and friendly attitude. Good time management skills. Maintain a clean and organized workspace. We are a fun professional studio that prides itself on an exceptional customer experience from the smallest of repairs to high-end custom designs. If you want to spread your creative wings and be a part of a store that loves what they do - contact us and let’s talk! To apply, please send your resume, work history, and/or cover letter to Erica Kissack. Bench test required. yourelegantkreations@gmail.com We look forward to your application!

Sales Representative Opportunity

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Sawyer Jewelers is in our 76th year of operation in Fenton, Michigan, and are looking for a qualiﬁed jeweler to join our team. Pay is competitive and based on experience. Paid holidays and vacations are included. Send resume’ to: info@sawyerjewelers.com

Read the lastest digital edition at SouthernJewelryNews.com

We are seeking a highly motivated individual to represent our collection of freshwater pearls, semi-precious gems and silver jewelry. Success in carrying at least one other jewelry line, excluding any lines that directly compete with our pearls. Travel is an integral part of this role, we will provide some existing accounts/leads. Commission structure and bonuses that reward your sales achievements. Join a dynamic team that values your dedication, provides ongoing support and resources to help you excel in your role. Resume to: lucasrobert2004@aol.com

Jewelry News • November 2023

39 ™

Soldering Sucks! A torch is dirty, toxic, and a risk to precious stones. But with an Orion welder, you’ll save time, keep a clean bench, and avoid damaging heat. Constructing a work piece, closing a jump ring, adding wire to a prong, or fixing porosity now requires only a fraction of the time. With five models to choose from there’s an Orion welder that will fit your studio’s budget.

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Jewelry News • November 2023

A Bold, Brilliant, Beautiful Holiday Trust Stuller to be your one-stop resource when making holiday dreams come true.

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Items featured, top to bottom: 652481, 689050, 122996, and BRC923