West Newsmagazine 041410

Page 77

APRIL 14, 2010 WEST NEWSMAGAZINE

NEWSMAGAZINENETWORK.COM

W E S T r e a l est a te

Wildwood

Residents who raise bison find it challenging to meet demand for meat By Julie Brown Patton When Janice and Steve Smyth sing “Home on the Range,” their lyrics become “where the deer and the buffalo play.” The Wildwood residents live and work in the city, but chose to raise buffalo to balance their children’s exposure to different lifestyles. Their 23 buffaloes, simultaneously called bison, stay on a farm that the Smyths own in central Missouri. “Buffalo are one of the few animals people can raise with such independence,” Janice said. “They can withstand cold temperatures, and typically don’t need human input. However, neighbors do keep watch on them, and we spend many weekends with them.” Janice said their jobs were still in the St. Louis area, but they really wanted to farm as well. She works as a consultant to a physicians’ group, and Steve is a computer analyst. They have had buffaloes since 2002. They said these native animals are good for land, with their hoof action providing percolation for better water management. In their first years of meat production at Seven Thunder Bison, they sold directly to customers at local St. Louis farmers’ markets. “Meat was going for a premium,” Janice said. “But we couldn’t keep up with the demand.” Industry statistics indicate that buffalo meat has 70 to 90 percent less fat compared to beef, and on average, has 50 percent less cholesterol. It is higher in protein, iron and all the omega and amino acids. The Smyths’ bison meat is sold at Anthony’s Produce Inc. in St. Peters; Schlafly’s Bottleworks in Maplewood; and through Fair Shares, a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program, which is run similarly to a co-op through which members receive weekly deliveries of meats, vegetables, breads, pastas, fruit and eggs. As a non-profit organization, CSA members share the risks and benefits of producers, including poor harvests due to pests or weather conditions. “We really like and support ‘buy local’ initiatives,” Janice said. She said buffaloes grow slower than cattle, and are slaughtered when they reach about 1,000 pounds at 24 to 30 months old. Their herd is grass-fed, with no antibiotics or hormones used. Seven Thunder Bison provides ground buffalo meat, steaks, roasts, summer sausage, bratwurst, snack sticks, fajita meat and stew meat. The Smyths tried planting native grasses

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for the herd when they first got them, but said Missouri’s fescue grass crowded out the other species. The herd is held behind a 5-and-a-half feet tall fence. “If buffalo are happy, they won’t roam,” Janice said. “They did get out one time when we left a gate open. But overnight, they came back to their own field.” Handling buffaloes can be a little tricky, the Smyths admit, but said that as long as people work with their natural instincts, everything usually turns out fine. “They are very curious creatures,” Janice said. “Once buffalo realize they are enclosed, however, their personalities change 180 degrees. They get upset and on-guard. And people should simply stay completely away from a momma buffalo with her calf.” The Smyths made the deliberate decision not to try to make pets of their buffaloes. She said they are just so strong, they could truly hurt someone inadvertently if they forgot and treated humans like another buffalo. She said the most frequent question she is asked is about the difference between the terms bison and buffalo. “There is no difference,” Janice said. “Technically, we believe bison was the first term used. But it seems Americans started calling them buffaloes by confusing them with water buffaloes.” The Smyths said their goal is to retire to the farm. “Buffaloes sure make a beautiful outline on the horizon at sunset,” Janice said.

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