Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review August 2021 by New Media B2B

AUGUST 2021 Volume 48 | Number 8

innovation and rican continent

48 eciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety yearsof f South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape www.pharmacos.co.za f products. Together with our strong and long standing each to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical

that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and

OECD adopts cruelty-free test methods Is this the end of animal testing?

Sustainable hair care solutions

Eco-friendly ingredients with high-performance results

Beauty packaging

Strategies and systems for a greener industry

Bring your products to life with effect pigments

We bring colour into view! Compact pressure sensors and switches with 360° custom-colour status display

256 colours Individually selectable: Measurement in progress Sensor switching Process malfunction

15 cm

Compact design

Hygienic adapter system

Adjustment via smartphone

www.vega.com/vegabar

AUGUST 2021

Contents

Volume 48 | Number 8 www.pharmacos.co.za

40 Pharma Focus: Supply Chain & Logistics

Emirates SkyCargo expands vaccine handling capabilities in Dubai How to overcome new challenges in supply chain mobility

16 6 News

18 Hair Care

Firmenich becomes an UEBT member

Define curls naturally with SilForm HydroFlex emulsion

Gauteng’s ATM pharmacies shutdown after looting

Ingredients that improve the sustainability profile of conditioners

Sabinsa reaches intellectual property milestone

12 Regulations & Testing CTFA unpacks global developments from a local perspective Intertek resolves questions on cannabis in SA cosmetics Cruelty-free test method approval starts the end of animal testing

40 32 Beauty Packaging Cama helps customer convert to sustainable packaging processes Coding and marking technologies to elevate your brand

Ucare extreme polymer – a new bio-based conditioning agent

First recyclable toothpaste tube debuts in SA

Deliver intense shine and colour enhancement with ProShine

A packaging designer’s viewpoint on “reduce, reuse, recycle”

Get long-lasting colour protection with Chromapol ColorPOP polymer

Marchesini Group Beauty expands with Cosmatic acquisition

Definicire – a unique ingredient inspired by natural hair lipids Unlocking the potential of CBD on oily skin and scalp

On the cover

Bring your products to life with effect pigments from CQV, represented locally by CJPChemicals

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

FROM THE EDITOR

The team EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

There’s no escaping sustainability issues

ver the past 18 months, the hair care category has endured some major changes. Professional hair care was locked down for a significant period, igniting a new level of consumer interest in at-home hair styling, colour and care solutions. This, coupled with the clean beauty movement and the stress of living through a global pandemic, is placing new demands on the ingredients and formulation

In the section on regulations and testing on page 12, we celebrate the global cosmetic industry approval of three cruelty-free test methods, resulting from the long-standing partnership of BASF and Givaudan to develop and validate alternative testing strategies. The views of local regulatory experts are also shared in this edition, with a particular focus on cannabis in cosmetics and microplastics.

technologies designed specifically for hair care applications. High-performance eco-friendly ingredients for conditioners, shampoos and styling aids are now readily available to formulators who are looking to improve the sustainability profile of hair care products. A number of these solutions are featured in our August edition, such as Momentive’s new organic silicone hybrid emulsion that delivers proven curl definition and curl retention benefits, and Chemyunion’s innovative shine-enhancing active ingredient, which is designed on the basis of green chemistry. Turn to page 18 to read more about these and other novel hair care technologies. Our cover feature celebrates the distribution partnership which CJP Chemicals has established with Korea’s largest pearlescent pigment manufacturer, CQV. On page 14, we take a detailed look at CQV’s pearlescent pigments, which are based on a patented production process and deliver “unrivalled effects” in cosmetics.

The topic of sustainability is highlighted once again in our beauty packaging feature as brands and manufacturers continue to seek out ways to transform their packaging infrastructure and processes to be more sustainable. Turn to page 32 to read more about the advanced eco-profile of Cama’s new mini wraparound case packer and how Colgate is setting a precedent in South Africa with the introduction of a recyclable plastic tube for toothpaste. We also share a packaging designer’s viewpoint on the fundamentals of successfully implementing the concepts of ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’ in the South African cosmetics industry. Enjoy the read!

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

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COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - T he Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.

Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028

NEWS

Union for Ethical BioTrade welcomes Firmenich as a member Firmenich, the world’s largest privately-owned fragrance and taste company, has become a member of Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), a non-profit association that promotes sourcing with respect. UEBT membership recognises that Firmenich is operating worldwide according to ethical sourcing principles and has developed effective work plans for its supply chains on biodiversity, fair and equitable benefit sharing, local development and labour rights. Our Centre of Expertise of Naturals in Grasse has been a member of UEBT since 2014 and now we are proud to join the organization at global level, having passed their independent assessment,” said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO Firmenich. “UEBT is recognised for setting high standards and working with companies on biodiversity, making this partnership a key milestone for our 2030 ESG objectives on responsible sourcing. By integrating biodiversity protection in all our natural sourcing from 50 countries, we are making a real difference to people, planet and society, and offering our customers the highest quality, sustainably sourced, With Firmenich’s proprietary Path2Farm app, natural raw materials.” customers are connected to the origins of its As a precondition to ingredients with just one click. (Source: @Firmenich on Facebook) becoming a global UEBT member, Firmenich’s biodiversity policy commitments and its responsible sourcing system were assessed by UEBT in accordance with its principles. “With UEBT, we have designed and agreed on a clear work-plan for the next three years,” added Boet Brinkgreve, president, ingredients. “Our objective is to drive continuous improvement towards the local producers in our value chains and ensure proper risk management systems across our natural sourcing portfolio. Through this collaboration, we also want to achieve certification for a large number of our critical ingredients by 2030.” Rik Kutsch Lojenga, executive director of UEBT, commented: “Firmenich has set clear targets for 2030 on sourcing with respect for people and biodiversity. A solid implementation strategy is currently being rolled out by Firmenich to ensure these targets are met and positive impact is created for people and biodiversity. With Firmenich group joining UEBT, it is committing to continuous improvement with a focus on local sourcing practices in its responsible sourcing due diligence system and supplier support programme. We look forward to working with Firmenich on this.” As part of its Naturals Together platform, Firmenich builds its leadership in naturals on three pillars: sustainable procurement standards; collections of certified ingredients with strong involvement at source; as well as innovation. UEBT membership supports the group’s ambitions for sourcing with respect for people and biodiversity.

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

A back-end before photograph of an ATM pharmacy (speedboxes) with pharmacists

Fanie Hendriksz pictured at looted and destroyed ATM pharmacy which was located at Ndofaya Mall in Meadowlands

All Gauteng’s innovative ATM pharmacies closed after riot destruction

ePharmacy’s pioneering ATM

• Alexandra: Alex Plaza (destroyed)

pharmacies have been permanently

• Diepsloot: Bambanani Mall

closed in Gauteng after three of the four sites were totally destroyed in riots. Pharmacy Dispensing Units (PDUs),

(largely intact) The electronic pharmacy located at Twin City Mall in Mangaung, Free State

better known as ATM pharmacies, are a

is unharmed and business continues

South African award-winning healthcare

as normal.

innovation intended to be piloted until

Fanie Hendriksz, managing director

September 2021, when the project would

of Right ePharmacy confirmed the

be evaluated.

company’s ongoing commitment to

Since inception, the ATM pharmacies in Gauteng have served almost 55 000 patients and dispensed more than

assist, innovate and collaborate with last mile solutions for public healthcare. “We remain committed to the

710 000 chronic medicine prescriptions.

development of ATM pharmacy

The innovation allowed patients to

technology, our other innovations and

collect two months’ supply of their

successful projects such as the Collect

medication in under three minutes

& Go smart lockers, in-pharmacy

offering an audio-visual tele-pharmacy

automation and centralised dispensing

consultation with each visit.

facilities to continue positively

The Right ePharmacy team, in

impacting the lives of patients in

collaboration with the Gauteng

Africa. We are grateful to our funders,

Department of Health, is assisting

partners and shareholders, Right

affected patients to transition to other

to Care, United States Agency for

facilities so that they may continue

International Development, Deutsche

receiving their chronic medication

Gesellschaft für Internationale

uninterrupted. Patients are being

Zusammenarbeit and the Global Fund for

directed to hospitals, clinics and

making it possible to actualise innovative

alternative service providers.

solutions that positively impact the lives

No patient records were compromised during the looting as all data is secured in

of patients on the continent.” Right ePharmacy is in discussion

cloud-based records.

with several parties including other

These advanced electronic pharmacies

provinces, private sector healthcare

were located in:

companies and other African and

• Soweto: Baragwanath Mall in

international providers that are

Diepkloof and Ndofaya Mall in

interested in deploying its innovative

Meadowlands (both destroyed)

ATM pharmacy technology.

NEWS

Sabinsa reaches intellectual property milestone The company’s intellectual property portfolio

anticipating the trend for natural ingredients in the

The composition was also awarded with another

now includes 308 separate patents granted

cosmetics industry.

patent for managing and alleviating symptoms

across the world.

Its recent patents are for the new products

The most recent patents include several from

Nigellin and Sabroxy. Nigellin is a product enriched

Australia, Canada Europe and the US.

with thymoquinone and thymohydroquinone,

Sabinsa’s patent portfolio includes

of neurotoxicity due to hyperglycemia and chemotherapeutics (US10894029). The company’s flagship probiotic LactoSpore

isolated from the seeds of Nigella sativa,

has also been granted new patents for its

composition, use and process patents. Many

commonly known as black cumin, which has many

effectiveness in inhibiting infections related to H.

are for various aspects of category leader

beneficial properties. In ancient religious

pylori, along with Saberry (commonly known

ingredients such as LactoSpore, DigeZyme

texts, this plant has been

and Curcumin C3 Complex, while others are for

reported as a “cure for all

relatively new, up and coming ingredients such

diseases except death”.

as Nigellin and Sabroxy. Reaching over 300 patents is a particularly

as Amla, or Indian Gooseberry). This invention was granted a patent in the US (US10792295).

With the outbreak

In addition, a US patent was

of COVID-19 and

awarded for the ability of

notable milestone when viewed through

the pressures of

LactoSpore to reduce flatulence

the company’s history as well as that of the

lockdown and

and in inhibiting gas producing

industry. Sabinsa’s patent portfolio started with

social distancing,

microbes (US 10806760).

the grant of US patent no. 5536506, issued

the mental and

on 16 July 1996 for its black pepper extract

cognitive health of

– BioPerine – for improving gastrointestinal

individuals became

absorption of nutrients. With this invention

a concern. The changes

and the ensuing published research, Sabinsa

in lifestyle imposed by the

helped many companies develop formulations

virus can increase the risk of many

preventing the formation of aging signs on the

to improve the absorption of vital nutrients.

neurodegenerative diseases like Alzheimer’s

skin (US10966919). “I’m very proud that Sabinsa

This also set a standard for researching

disease, vascular dementia, Parkinson’s disease

has reached the milestone of over 300 patented

nutraceutical ingredients to support products

etc, affecting cognitive abilities. One of Sabinsa’s

grants worldwide, and more are coming,” says

in the marketplace. From this comparatively

newest products, Sabroxy is a natural solution

Dr Muhammed Majeed, founder and chairman

small step, great growth followed as the

for better management of mental and cognitive

of the Sami-Sabinsa Group. “Our motto ‘our

company developed, researched and launched

health. Formulated from the bark of Oroxylum

innovation is your answer’ truly reflects the

important ingredients like Curcumin C3

indicum and standardised to contain important

new products, nutritional supplements and

Complex, Citrin, ForsLean, LivLonga, LactoSpore

ingredients like oroxylin A, baicalein and chrysin,

formulations we develop in accordance with

and many others. The company also invented

this patented composition (US10555982) can help

global standards to cater to the growing needs of

and patented products for skin and hair care,

in maintaining good cognitive and mental health.

the industry and consumers.”

The extracellular metabolite of LactoSpore trademarked as LactoSporin, purified from the culture supernatant of the probiotic, was awarded a patent grant for its use in

Coschem hosts a virtual positivity session The social committee of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) hosted a virtual catchup session on 28 July, based on the theme “fill your cup, not only with coffee but also positivity”. Due to ongoing lockdown restrictions, the social committee may not organise any faceto-face social activities. However, with so many people continuing to work from home, and either isolating or recovering from illness, the social committee thought it would be valuable to check in with members and guests from the industry to hear how everyone is doing. It was a lovely afternoon spent together virtually, without masks, where they could see everyone’s faces, especially their smiles, and could catch up on what’s been happening in their lives.

Coschem members and industry guests check in for a positive virtual get together

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

What’s on in 2021

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AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

2021 Coschem Scientific Conference 8 to 9 September Virtual event www.coschem.co.za AMA Golf Day, 2021 15 September The Country Club, Woodmead www.aerosol.co.za Luxepack Monaco 27 to 29 September Grimaldi Forum, Monaco www.luxepack.com Chemspec Europe 2021 29 to 30 September Virtual event www.chemspeceurope.com

October

Beauty World Middle East 5 to 7 October (new dates) Dubai World Trade Centre, UAE https://bit.ly/3iJHoD1 in-cosmetics Global 5 to 7 October Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com/global Interphex 2021 19 to 21 October New York, United States www.interphex.com

November

NYSCC Suppliers Day 10 to 12 November Virtual day: 12 Nov New York, United States nyscc.org/suppliers-day

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COMPANY FOCUS

Innovative technology delivers pure pearlescent pigments with unrivalled effects Developed to impart a pearlescent or “shimmer” look to products, effect pigments are a staple formulation technology in cosmetics and personal care products. But what are they made from and how exactly do they achieve their visual impact? By Abby Vorster

ccording to CQV, a global leader in effect pigments for cosmetics applications, pearlescent pigments consist of laminar crystals with an aspect ratio unlike general pigments. The interference colours come from the refraction ratio difference between the laminar crystal and intervention material, providing effects such as iridescence and metallic gloss. CQV is the largest pearlescent pigment manufacturer in Korea, mainly producing pearlescent pigments based on natural and synthetic mica, borosilicate and alumina. Its sales network covers the globe, including South Africa where it is represented by CJP Chemicals. CQV’s products are widely used in cosmetics, skin care products and detergents for their high quality and special effects.

MIRINAE PEARLESCENT PIGMENTS Widely used in cosmetics applications, pearlescent pigments are coated with metal

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

oxides using substrates such as natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, or other platy materials. Mirinae utilises man-made platy alumina. This material imparts an extremely soft feel when used as an effect pearlescent pigment. It also provides unique appearance properties. To date, the use of man-made platy alumina in the cosmetics industry has been limited due to its high cost and relative lack of availability. Specific technology and highly

"CQV has succeeded in transferring its patented technology for industrial mass production of platetype alumina"

technical skills are needed to manufacture plate-type alumina for use in pearlescent pigments. As a result of years of creative R&D, CQV holds a patented formula for producing plate-type alumina. The company has spent a lot of time developing plate-type alumina because its structural difference is of considerable benefit to the intended effect of pearlescent pigments. Plate-type alumina is a single structure with a uniform thickness, whereas the bases commonly used in existing effect pigments are multi-layered structures with irregular thickness. As a uniform base refracts and reflects light in the same direction, it is more likely to maximise gloss and colour – giving pearlescent pigments their unique characteristics. To increase the availability of Mirinae pearlescent pigments, CQV has succeeded in transferring its patented technology for industrial mass production of plate-type alumina.

COMPANY FOCUS

"With CQV’s Esorora Glare H-grade, the industry now has access to plasticfree glittering effect pigments"

Did you know? CQV’s cosmetic effect pigments provide performance properties that are superior to those of conventional coated micas when it comes to lustre, chroma, clarity and colour purity. These pearlescent pigments are suitable for use in all cosmetics products, such as eye makeup, lipsticks and lip balms, nail polish and body products. They offer a great sparkling effect and high colour purity with low heavy metal content.

The newer Esorora Glare H-grade also meets the need for an eco-friendly, plastic-free source of glitter effect pigments. Traditionally, glitter flakes used in cosmetics were based on polyester. Due to rising concerns about microplastics and environmental pollution, manufacturers and brand owners have been looking for more sustainable options as an alternative to polyester-based glitter. With CQV’s Esorora Glare H-grade, the industry now has access to plastic-free glittering effect pigments for colour cosmetics and personal care products. They are especially effective in nail polish where they offer maximum sparkling effect thanks to their significantly larger particle size.

FEATHELEVE PT SERIES

ESORORA GLARE

Substrates play an important role in effect pigments, allowing for physical and chemical stability of the pigment particle. Furthermore, the degree of transparency a substrate offers is key to light transmission, which in part determines the degree of lustre or pearlescence. Iridescent colours develop according to the thickness of the metal oxide coating. Effect pigments in the Featheleve PT Series are substrate-free, so the metal oxide coating envelopes an air core. This construction of the pigments distinguishes Featheleve from other effect pigments and gives them an index of refraction of 1.0. The refractive index of substrates used in typical effect pigments is about 1.3 for borosilicate and about 1.6 for synthetic mica and natural mica. The refractive index of a metal oxide coating such as TiO2 is 2.8. Accordingly, pairing TiO2 with an air core, i.e. Featheleve, yields an unsurpassed effect when compared to typical effect pigments. The Featheleve Series is classified by three main features: 1. effect pigments without

CQV has reintroduced its Esorora Glare series of gold, red and blue with newly-added hues of violet. These multi-colour effect pigments are based on borosilicate and produced in two grades: P-grade (30µm to 180µm) and the newer H-grade (60µm to 500µm), which has a larger particle size compared to the P-grade.

gloss which deliver a silky feel when applied on skin, making them suitable for skin care products as well as makeup 2. feather-like light-weight effect pigments that deliver a smooth feel and even finish on skin

MIRINAE LUX SERIES The newest offering from CQV in its Mirinae range of pearlescent pigments is the Lux series. These are clean, pure and pollutantfree single-layered pearlescent pigments with a uniform thickness and smooth surface. These attributes are essential characteristics for effect pigments. Gold and red pearlescent pigments are available in the Mirinae Lux Series. This series is unique in the market as there is no competitor product available with the same particularly strong sparkling effect, despite the small particle size of these pearlescent pigments. Chroma and brilliance are maximised, distinguishing Mirinae Lux from other alumina effect materials on the market.

3. effect pigments that offer comparable UV protection to TiO2 without the skin whitening effect associated with TiO2. The third feature of Featheleve effect pigments has been tested in vivo. The results of this test showed Featheleve in sunscreen formulation was able to obtain a UV blocking index close to that of nano TiO2, making these effect pigments highly suited to sun care products. The series is also ideal for use in BB creams, foundations, skin care products, powders, and bath and cleansing products.

FEATHELEVE PTM To add to the versatility of the Featheleve series, CQV also offers metallic colours using Featheleve as a substrate which is coated with a secondary layer of Fe2O3 to produce a metallic effect. Depending on the thickness of the metal oxide coating, this series consists of six colours developed in line with customer preference. These are fine gold, orange, coral, red, violet and lime gold. Featheleve PTM pigments do not require a separate milling process because they are free of agglomerations. This series can be used in a wide range of applications, from basic cosmetics and beauty products, to UV protection products, foundations and nail polishes. • CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za CQV – www.cqv.co.kr

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

REGULATIONS & TESTING

All you need to know about

cruelty-free testing, microplastics and cannabis in cosmetics Regulations are implemented to ensure fair business practices and to protect consumers and the environment. In the South African cosmetics industry, business has been self-regulated for over 26 years premised on the EU regulations, EC 1223/2009. The past two years have seen some significant developments in terms of cosmetic ingredient safety information, product testing and the use of cannabis as an ingredient in cosmetics. Dershana Jackison, CTFA’s head of policy and regulatory affairs, unpacks these developments from a local perspective.

everal common ingredients or groups of chemicals are under review by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) via REACH, including cyclic siloxanes D4/D5/D6. Cyclic volatile methyl siloxane (cVMS) includes the cyclosiloxanes octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) which have four, five and six siloxane groups, respectively. D5 and D6 function as emollients, hair and skin conditioning ingredients and solvents in cosmetics. They find application in rinse-off (hair conditioner) and leave-on products (skin care, personal deodorants and colour cosmetics). In the EU, the cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 include restrictions for the use of D4 and D5 in rinse-off applications. This restriction entered into force on 30 January 2018 and applied to all products placed on the EU market from 31 January 2020. The new proposed restriction will apply to all leave-on applications and will extend the rinse-off restriction to D6 as well. How does this affect local products exported to the EU? The proposed transition period is five years from publication of the amending regulation to allow brand owners and manufacturers to reformulate their products and avoid the cost of writing off raw ingredient and packaging inventory. It is important to note that these cVMS may be present in cosmetic products as impurities of silicone polymers, which must be considered during the review of existing cosmetic formulations in order to comply.¹ Within the self-regulated framework, the Cosmetic Toiletry & Fragrance Association

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

of South Africa (CTFA) will include the EU updates in its next annual update of the Cosmetic Compendium in 2022. This amendment will have an associated transition period to be confirmed at the time of the update.

MICROPLASTICS The WWF describes the problem of microplastics being everywhere – in our oceans, on land, in rivers, wetlands and soil, and in the air. The NGO also suggests that it will take a concerted effort from various stakeholders including governments, businesses, scientists and individuals to fix this pervasive problem.

"The industry can expect legislation which will prohibit the use of microplastics in the near future"

In a WWF Plastic File article posted online, the NGO states: “As with larger pieces of plastic, there is evidence of damage to marine animals from microplastics, particularly by filter feeders such as zooplankton that ingest them. This is of major concern because plankton is critical for marine food chains and help to remove carbon dioxide from Earth’s atmosphere. Research has found that at least 220 marine species have been known to ingest microplastics, most often because they are mistaken for food. While some animals can excrete the plastics, a number of them can’t. Once ingested, these small nonnutritious plastic bits fill up the stomachs of marine mammals and sea birds, which can cause death by starvation through damage or obstruction to the gut.”² According to ECHA, microplastics accumulate in animals, including fish and shellfish, and are consequently also consumed as food by humans. Microplastics have been found in marine, freshwater and terrestrial ecosystems as well as in food and drinking water. Their continued release contributes to permanent pollution of our ecosystems and food chains. Exposure to microplastics in laboratory studies has been linked to a range of negative (eco)toxic and physical effects on living organisms.³

A WORLD VIEW Many countries across the globe have implemented a ban on microplastics. These include Canada, France, New Zealand, Sweden, Taiwan, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Some

REGULATIONS & TESTING

countries have already started drafting legislation to ban microplastics. Several EU member states have already enacted or proposed national bans on the intentional use of microplastics in consumer products. The bans concern mainly uses of microbeads in rinse-off cosmetics, where the microplastics are used as exfoliating agents. Microplastics are also used as glitters or in makeup. Prompted by these concerns, in 2017 the European Commission requested ECHA to assess scientific evidence and prepare a restriction dossier under the REACH Regulation targeting the intentional addition of microplastics in products such as cosmetics. One of the many reasons why the agency concluded it necessary to restrict microplastic ingredients under REACH, is because microplastics accumulate and persist in the environment. Following ECHA’s opinion, the EC has proposed the amendment of the list of substances under Annex XVII of REACH. This proposal is due to be submitted to a vote by the EU member states in the REACH Committee. Member state governments will vote in 2021 and a final law is expected to come into force in early 2022.⁴

WHAT IS SOUTH AFRICA’S POSITION? In November 2019, the Department of Forestry, Fishery and Environment (DFFE) hosted the Plastics Colloquium where Minister Barbara Creecy addressed the forum. Creecy mentioned that microplastics are of major concern in SA and described them as “examples of where end-of-life considerations did not influence product design resulting in the regulator

needing to exercise regulatory powers to phase out or restrict the use of the material. The South African Health Products Regulatory Authority is considering the revision of the cosmetics regulations; meanwhile SABS and DTI are working on standards.”⁵ Being a proponent of environmental safety, since 2018 CTFA has recommended to all its members to discontinue the use of plastic microbeads in wash-off products by 2020. This was initiated even though the potential contribution of microbeads from exfoliating rinse-off products to overall environmental microplastic pollution is minute. CTFA has also been collaborating with the DFFE by providing input on impact assessment studies and engaging with the cosmetic regulator on the matter. This involved industry surveys carried out in 2018 and 2019 to assess the reduction in use of microbeads by the South African cosmetics industry. This bears testament to the initiative taken by individual companies and underlines the industry’s voluntary action to transition to microplasticfree cosmetic products. Through CTFA’s continued engagement with the relevant regulators, the industry can expect legislation which will prohibit the use of microplastics in the near future, with specific timelines for the phase-out.

CRUELTY-FREE TESTING AN IMMINENT REALITY In recent years, advocacy campaigns for nonanimal methods to test cosmetic products have gained traction, drawing the attention of consumers, industry players, regulators and

industry associations to the significance of the matter. All affected stakeholders have a distinct and defined role to play in this evolving trend. Consumers create and drive market trends such as natural cosmetics, clean label, environmental and animal considerations, and veganism etc. Regulatory authorities around the globe are waking up to the anticipation and compulsion from consumers and advocacy groups to include a total ban on animal testing for cosmetic ingredients and products. Reforms in emergent regulatory jurisdictions are predicated on international regulatory trends and best practices. Traditionally, animal testing was the accepted primary and sole means of assessing the safety of ingredients. Over the years, data has been collated for reference by regulators as a precursor to developing regulations that will ensure product and consumer safety. With the advent of greater technological advances in testing capabilities and scientific advancement, experts are continuously researching and developing alternative methods to assess the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products. Progressive regulatory reform around non-animal testing in regions like the European Union, the US and Canada, have laid the premise for a global paradigm shift in safety assessments. These countries have made reasonable transitions that will enable continued innovation within the cosmetics industry as well as eliminate the need for animal testing to assess the safety of products. For example, the European Commission (EC) specifically established a testing ban which placed a prohibition on testing finished cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients on animals and a marketing ban which placed a prohibition on marketing finished cosmetic products and ingredients in the EU which were tested on animals. The testing ban on finished cosmetic products came into effect on 11 September 2004. The testing ban on ingredients or a combination of ingredients came into effect on 11 March 2009. The marketing ban applied since 11 March 2009 for all human health effects with the exception of repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics. For these specific health effects, the marketing ban applied since 11 March 2013, irrespective of the availability of alternative non-animal test methods.⁶ This approach was informed through an impact assessment carried out by the EC as well as targeted stakeholder engagements. The resultant transition period considered WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

REGULATIONS & TESTING

that in order to comply, industry members would require time to exhaust their current raw ingredient stock and packaging inventory and to redesign their product formulations. Most importantly, this approach ensured a continued supply of many essential cosmetics for consumers. Regulators, scientists and industry members continue to collaborate to make alternative cruelty-free assessment methods available to facilitate continued growth and innovation within the cosmetics industry. Some methods have already been internationally validated and have found application in countries across the globe, enabling and enhancing international trade.

LOCAL DEVELOPMENTS In South Africa, the Department of Land Reform and Rural Development is the custodian of the Animal Protection Act, 1962. An amendment to this act was proposed in 2017 by the publishing of the Animal Protection Amendment Bill, in Notice 942 of 2017 and then again in Government Gazette No. 43702 of 11 September 2020. As the industry association representing more than 80% of the industry, CTFA fully supports the proposed ban and has made submissions to the department, highlighting industry concerns for consideration on the proposed amendments: • the non-adherence to the national parliamentary process in the approach of the proposal to the amendment of the said Act • the National Department of Health is the regulator of the cosmetics industry and as such should be consulted prior

to considering amendments which will directly impact the regulatory oversight of the cosmetics industry • the regulations should be reflected in the appropriate legislation relevant to the cosmetics industry • in line with international regulatory practice, a similar, reasonable approach to the institution of the ban is advised which will ensure that an already economically strained industry is given a transition period to comply.

"Regulators, scientists and industry members continue to collaborate to make alternative cruelty-free assessment methods available " The Parliamentary Committee is due to meet on the matter in Q3 of 2021. CTFA is keeping a close eye on this development and will be publishing communications in this regard.

CANNABIS IN COSMETICS The trend of cannabis-based consumer products is growing even in the cosmetics industry. In recent years, the National Department of Health published legislation with the objective to improve regulations on the use of cannabis in medicines, complementary medicines and processed products (food and cosmetic products). On 23 May 2019, the Minister of Health excluded cannabidiol (CBD) from the Schedules of the Medicines and Related Substances Act, 1965 (Act no. 101 of 1965), for a period of 12 months, under restricted conditions, in the exclusion notice R.756 published in Government Gazette No.42477. Since the expiry

of this exemption notice, on 22 May 2020 the Minister of Health issued the amended schedules under restricted conditions in Government Notice No. 586 in the Government Gazette No. 43347, as follows: 1. previous entries for cannabis, dronabinol and tetrahydrocannabinol in Schedule 7 have been deleted 2. CBD is listed in Schedule 4, except: • processed products made from cannabis raw plant material intended for ingestion containing 0.0075% or less of CBD where only the naturally occurring quantity of cannabinoids found in the source material are contained in the product. Those products that meet the listed conditions will instead be regulated as Schedule 0 3. (-)-transdelta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) is listed in Schedule 6, except processed products made from cannabis containing 0.001% or less of tetrahydrocannabinol.⁷

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR COSMETICS? CBD-containing processed products intended for ingestion or for use as cosmetics, which make no pharmacological or medicinal claim and is approved for use in terms of the relevant legislation, is excluded from having to be registered as a medicine provided it is approved for such use. Cannabis cosmetics that are permitted contain the cannabis raw plant material with naturally occurring trace elements of CBD up to a maximum concentration of 0.0075% and less than 0.001% of THC. Cold-pressed hemp seed oil has been cited as an example of a source of the material that is permissible. In addition, the regulator will require that the levels of CBD and THC be verified in the final product. Furthermore, manufacturers and importers of CBD-containing processed products that respect the above requirement and do not make any medicinal claims do not require a license to manufacture or import in terms of Section 22c of the Medicines and Related Substances Act, 1965 (Act no. 101 of 1965). • CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za REFERENCES: 1. Exponent.com 2. www.wwf.org.za/plastic_files/?26141/plastic-file-03 3. echa.europe.eu 4. https://echa.europa.eu/hot-topics/microplastics 5. www.environment.gov.za 6. https://ec.europa.eu/ 7. THC and CBD Information, SAHPRA, 2021

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REGULATIONS & TESTING

Cannabis in the cosmetics industry Maintaining GMP continues to be vital in the cosmetics industry. This is because one of its major objectives is to ensure the quality and safety of cosmetic products in circulation throughout the supply chain. To achieve this, companies involved manufacturing cosmetics and supplying the raw materials, as well as those distributing and selling finished products need to understand the implications of various legislations and how they impact the industry. By Andrea Mammes, Intertek lead auditor – cosmetics

he use of cannabidiol (CBD) found in cannabis and hemp plants has become a growing concern in the cosmetics industry, leaving most companies in disarray. This is because there is currently no international management for the use of CBD in cosmetic products globally. Due to the nature of the raw material, each geographical region has developed its own regulations for the use of CBD in cosmetic products. In some countries, hemp-derived cannabidiol (CBD oil) can easily be purchased on the internet, but the consequence of this may result in a product with reduced quality. The South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) has advised that the use of extracted CBD or CBD isolate (pure CBD) is not permitted in cosmetics, in line with the amended schedules published in May 2020. This also means that CBD as an additive or ingredient is not permissible in processed products.

However, cosmetics made from the cannabis raw plant material and only containing the naturally occurring trace from the source material (i.e. not extracted) up to a maximum concentration of 00075% are permitted.

Did you know? Intertek offers cosmetics testing services. These include clinical studies, safety assessments, quality control, in vitro testing, product claims verification, screening for restricted substances, and supplier audits.

ASSURANCE, TESTING, INSPECTION AND CERTIFICATION SERVICES Intertek offers cosmetics manufacturers in-depth knowledge on manufacturing processes and GMP codes. This allows companies to align themselves with legislations passed down by regulatory

"The use of extracted CBD or CBD isolate is not permitted in cosmetics"

authorities such as SAHPRA. Intertek is accredited to award certifications such as ISO 22716:2007 to help companies meet their objectives, minimise risks and optimise their supply chains. ISO 22716:2007 is an international standard for cosmetics GMP. A key benefit of this certificate includes the improvement of quality management systems. It also demonstrates a manufacturer’s commitment to the safety of cosmetic products and ensures their compliance with international guidelines. With its global network of auditors, Intertek provides a full compliance solution for ISO 22716 including auditing and certification, training, and e-learning tools. The provider is also well-equipped to offer customers specialist expertise, support and services in the analysis of products, raw materials and consumer substrates through its network of laboratories located worldwide. As such, Intertek is an ideal partner to provide quality assured data to brands, retailers, manufacturers and suppliers, to help them understand and mitigate sources of product risk. • Intertek – www.intertek.com

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

REGULATIONS & TESTING

Toxicology test acceptance sparks a welcome departure from animal testing The long-standing alliance between BASF and Givaudan to develop and validate cruelty-free test methods has ended successfully with the approval of three alternative testing strategies.

or the first time ever, the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) has adopted a cruelty-free testing method, also formally known as a toxicology testing strategy, to predict the skin sensitisation potential of a substance. Dr Robert Landsiedel, vice president, special toxicology, BASF, explains: “For more than 10 years, we have been working towards this goal. It is a big step in the right direction. Now we can also use alternative methods to answer more complex toxicological questions without animal testing.” Dr Andreas Natsch, head of in vitro molecular screening at Givaudan, adds: “This strategy has a better predictivity for human allergy risks compared to traditional animal testing.”

CHALLENGES IN REPLACING ANIMAL TESTING Before a new product is approved by the authorities and placed on the market, is must undergo various tests. This includes a test to determine if the product sensitises the skin. Until now, animal testing has always been required for skin sensitisation tests. “To replace animal testing, one alternative method is not enough when it comes to skin sensitisation. To assess skin sensitisation, which is caused by a complex process in the organism, a combination of three methods is needed,” Landsiedel explains. “With the results of these three tests, scientists can predict whether a substance will cause an allergic reaction in humans.” The third alternative method that has also received OECD approval predicts the intensity of an allergic reaction using the kinetic direct peptide reactivity assay. This alternative testing method also transpires from the collaborative efforts of Givaudan and BASF and complements the now approved testing strategy.

"This strategy has a better predictivity for human allergy risks compared to traditional animal testing" 16

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

In addition to assessing whether there is a potential for skin sensitisation, the new method can add information on the potency. It is only with this additional test that animal testing for allergic reactions can finally be abandoned.

A COLLABORATIVE INDUSTRY “Of course, we haven’t done it all on our own. Over the past 10 years, various companies and scientific institutions, such as the Institute for In Vitro Sciences have worked with us to validate the individual methods of the strategy,” stresses Dr Susanne Kolle, lab team leader at BASF. “We have trained laboratories around the world on how to use these methods to generate accurate results. As more laboratories embrace these methods, the more we will be able to reduce animal testing in the future.” Dr Roger Emter, who developed one of the underlying methods at Givaudan, adds: “By demonstrating that the results are reproducible and predictive, trust in alternative tests is growing.” Experts from both companies agree that the approval of the test strategy is a breakthrough in efforts to completely eliminate animal-testing requirements. In principle, this has opened up a possibility for approvals of entire testing strategies in other areas, such as eye irritation effects or effects on the hormone system. • BASF – www.basf.com Givaudan – www.givaudan.com

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HAIR CARE

Define curls naturally with a soft and flexible hold Natural hair continues to be at the forefront of global beauty trends as more and more consumers are embracing their curls, waves, kinks and coils. The movement has encouraged a chain reaction of innovation among ingredients suppliers as hair care brands and manufacturers constantly look to win over new consumers with targeted solutions to comfortably and confidently manage, style and care for their curly hair. By Abby Vorster

n line with the upward trajectory of the natural hair movement, consumer demand continues to grow for a wider variety of styling aids and products developed specifically for curly and textured hair. Styling is key in managing curly hair. In the past, harsh and damaging chemical straightening and heat styling methods were the most popular ways to “manage” curly hair. Yet, consumers are ditching these traditional methods in favour of natural-based styling products produced with effective, clean and sustainable ingredients. According to the UK’s Glamour Magazine, some of the most desirable attributes consumers want from styling products include “long-lasting curl definition”, “anti-frizz” or “frizz-free”, and “humidity control”.

FORMULATION GUIDELINES FOR SILFORM HYDROFLEX EMULSION: • It outperformed competitive materials in improved curl definition when used at 5% and 10% in a shampoo formulation, and performed well from 2% to 8% in leave-on formulations. • To improve curl definition efficacy in a shampoo, it worked best when formulated with a depositing aid polymer (i.e. cationic guar). • It outperformed a competitive material in frizz control and performed best in high humidity when formulated in a shampoo with a depositing aid polymer.

ORGANIC SILICONE HYBRID EMULSION Developed to address the unique needs of curly hair, SilForm HydroFlex emulsion from Momentive Performance Materials (Momentive) helps improve curl definition and the anti-frizz performance of styling products.

Did you know? Momentive’s SilForm fluids help formulators achieve a favourable combination of long-lasting reliability and comfort in hair and skin care products. The range of fluids is produced without the use of ethylene oxide and promoted as highly flexible silicone film formers. SilForm fluids enable various consumer-perceivable benefits in finished products, such as long-lasting comfort on skin, extended fragrance retention on hair and superior water-, oil- and colour-transfer resistance in colour cosmetics.

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

• The fluid is easy to incorporate in shampoo and leave-on formulations. Figure 1: SilForm Hydroflex emulsion (far right) offers superior curl definition benefits compared to PVP/VA (Note: Test results. Actual results may vary)

Based in the US, Momentive is a global silicones business whose products are used in a great number of industries, including the cosmetics industry. In South Africa, Savannah Fine Chemicals is the approved distributor of Momentive’s beauty and personal care ingredients and additives. Styling products designed with SilForm HydroFlex emulsion help to deliver a flexible hold and soft touch on curly hair, owing to the excellent mechanical strength and superior elasticity of the silicone emulsion. The natural hold provided by the elastic film is a welcome departure from the hardening effect of some styling polymers on the market which crisp upon drying and weigh down hair.

• It formed stable shampoos with a low to moderate viscosity change in formulation. • It is compatible with most anionic and non-ionic ingredients typically found in pump sprays, hair gels and mousses. Momentive designed this film-forming emulsion so that it is easy to incorporate in a wide range of hair care formulations, such as gels and styling sprays, as well as shampoos and conditioners, to assist customers in driving innovation in their product ranges while increasing their competitive advantage. Characterised as an organic silicone hybrid emulsion, SilForm HydroFlex emulsion has been performance-tested for curl definition and curl retention against a market-leading hair styling ingredient.

HAIR CARE LONG-LASTING CURL DEFINITION

SHIELDING CURLS FROM HUMIDITY

In mousses, creams, gels and sprays, the high elasticity and mechanical strength of SilForm HydroFlex emulsion translated into a flexible hold on curly hair with the added benefits of enhanced humidity resistance, easier control and longerlasting performance. To study the curl definition effect, bleached wavy hair tresses (5g, 20cm) were washed with a 10% SLES solution for one minute and rinsed for another minute. Water was then squeezed out of the tresses and an aqua styling spray formulated with 15mg of SilForm HydroFlex emulsion was applied on one tress. A second tress was treated with a PVP/VA styling spray while the third tress was left untreated as the control. The tresses were air dried for 12 hours and placed in a climatic chamber for another five hours which was set at 90% relative humidity (RH) and 25°C. Before and after, photographs of the tresses showed SilForm HydroFlex emulsion offers a superior curl definition effect compared to PVP/VA (see Figure 1).

A similar study was performed for curl retention, on undamaged hair tresses. One hair tress was treated with 15mg of SilForm HydroFlex emulsion in a styling spray and a second one with a PVP/VA styling spray. Both tresses were mounted on a curler and left to air dry for 12 hours. After being removed from the curlers, the tresses were placed in a climatic chamber (90% RH and 25°C) for five hours, removed and combed 10 times. Before and after photographs, also taken at each stage of the study, revealed that the curl retention performance of SilForm HydroFlex emulsion was equivalent to that of PVP/VA when exposed to high humidity for an extended period. Yet, after combing, Momentive’s silicone emulsion showed more effective performance than PVP/VA in delivering lasting curl retention (see Figure 2). •

Figure 2: The curl retention performance of SilForm HydroFlex emulsion (middle right) showed equivalent performance to PVP/VA when exposed to high humidity for an extended period. After combing, SilForm HydroFlex emulsion (bottom right) showed more effective performance than PVP/VA in retaining curl memory (Note: Test results. Actual results may vary)

Momentive Performance Materials – www.momentive.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

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HAIR CARE

High-performing, sustainable solutions for hair care Whether you’re looking to develop a clean conditioner or solid shampoo bar, Stepan offers innovative ingredients that are gentle on the environment and ensure the excellent performance of a finished product. Stepanquat Soleil and Lathanol LAL are two of its newest solutions available locally from Millchem to help improve the sustainability profile and performance of conditioners while driving innovation in solid format products.

he performance of hair conditioners is a must, yet the demand for more sustainable hair care products has become equally important to consumers. Stepanquat Soleil (INCI: Dioleoylethyl  Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides) takes these sustainability needs into account. It is derived from non-GMO sunflower oil sourced from France and Spain and is solvent- and preservative-free. Stepanquat Soleil comprises 100% cationic and emollient actives with a low environmental footprint as the esterquat is readily biodegradable. Performance-wise, it has strong detangling power and is comparable

to behentrimonium chloride. It also possesses great substantivity while being easily removed during the next shampoo, resulting in a long-lasting effect without the build-up. The science behind Stepanquat Soleil, as well the formulation benefits, will be showcased during the virtual Coschem scientific conference, taking place on 8 and 9 September.

SOLID PRODUCTS IN THE SPOTLIGHT A leading issue for consumers and brands is the impact packaging has on the planet. With solid shampoos and body cleansing bars, brands and manufacturers can contribute to a cleaner world while creating a magical shower

experience. Solid formats also reduce water consumption and transportation costs. Lathanol LAL Coarse/MB (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is a mild, sulfate-free anionic surfactant that enhances solid formulations by providing a luxurious foam. It offers easy obtention of a clear solution, quick and energy-saving processing, and tighter foam structure for a luxurious experience. To demonstrate the benefits of Lathanol LAL Coarse/MB in a solid-format product, Stepan designed a soap-free bubble pebble hair and body cleansing bar, which is gentle on skin and mild on hair and delivers a highquality lather when used. • Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

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LATHANOL® LAL is a Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate used as a primary or secondary surfactant, foaming agent, wetting agent and / or emulsifier.

Meet us at Coschem online conference on the 8 - 9th September 2021 for more information. Contact giulio@millchem.co.za

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

HAIR CARE

New bio-derived cellulose technology goes beyond conditioning

Sustainability has become a common thread in the hair care category. AECI Specialty Chemicals is at the forefront of sustainable technology. It’s newest eco-friendly offering in this category is the bio-derived and bio-based conditioning agent, Ucare extreme polymer.

ith its outstanding conditioning performance and favourable ecoprofile, Ucare extreme polymer is an ideal solution for hair care brand’s that want to engage with eco-conscious consumers. Ucare extreme polymer goes beyond conditioning. This polyquaternium-10, cationic cellulosic polymer has a more hydrophobic backbone than traditional Ucare polymers, which provides its unique performance benefits. It can be used as a principal conditioning agent or in combination with silicones or natural oils. Ucare extreme polymer has a high weight efficiency which supports its low dosage in formulations. The polymer is water soluble, enhances viscosity, improves the natural content of a formula and is compatible with a broad range of surfactants and thickeners – offering great versatility to the formulator.

Did you know? Ucare extreme polymer is responsibly sourced from non-GMO certified wood pulp. More than 50% of its content is bio-derived and it is inherently biodegradable according to OECD test guidelines.

VERSATILE AND EFFECTIVE In rinse-off conditioners, Ucare extreme polymer imparts the same feel as a silicone on wet and dry hair, helping to reduce combing force especially on damaged hair. It also reduces hair breakage and restores hydrophobicity, resulting in healthier hair. Ucare extreme polymer is known to improve manageability and enables extreme fibre alignment when compared to the performance of a silicone. In leaveon treatments, Ucare extreme polymer

conditions hair (reduction in combing force) and provides natural soft styling (curl retention). Pre-treatment of hair with the polymer offers thermal protection to the hair surface which results in an improved denaturation enthalpy and temperature. The eco-friendly polymer also offers versatility in shampoos and enhances dry and wet combability in different shampoo chassis, including clear formulations, without affecting foamability. Contact AECI Specialty Chemicals for more information on its sustainable technologies and formulation support to develop ecofriendly hair care products. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – karen.meyer@aeciworld.com

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HAIR CARE

Eco-friendly active ingredient for hair that shines By 2023, the global hair care market is expected to reach $100bn. Products with “shine” attributes amount to 40% of the category, subsequent to those with natural or botanical appeal, according to Mintel GNPD survey results. ProShine by Chemyunion is a new vegan active ingredient designed to deliver intense shine and colour enhancement in dyed, bleached and natural hair.

he perception of shine is often associated with beautiful and healthy hair which justifies the need for continued research into solutions that improve and maintain this effect. There are multiple factors that directly affect hair’s shininess, such as whether or not hair fibres are clean, the uniformity and integrity of the cuticles, extent of damage to both the surface and internal fibre structures, colour, morphology, hair density on the scalp and capillary fibre alignment. When the cuticles are more uniform and better aligned, hair’s ability to reflect light is improved and it appears brighter. Cleaning and intensive care, damage caused by UV exposure in the regions of the cuticle or cortex, heat treatments,

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chemical treatments such as discoloration and straightening, and the act of combing or vigorously brushing hair can all result in a loss of shine.

GREEN INGREDIENT FOR SHINY HAIR Although there are several shine-enhancing ingredient technologies on the market, hair care brands and manufacturers are seeking more sustainable alternatives. To meet this need, Chemyunion developed ProShine, an eco-friendly active ingredient designed according to green chemistry principles to deliver intense shine and colour enhancement in dyed, bleached and natural hair. ProShine has a very interesting mechanism of action. It interacts with the main keratin structures of the hair fibre by forming a uniform molecular film with a high refractive index which is necessary for obtaining intense shine. The interaction of ProShine with the amino acids of the

ProShine delivered 127% more shine on bleached hair, 42% more on dyed hair and 19% more shine on natural hair when tested at 1% in a finished product

hair fibre have been proven in an in silico modulation. Available in South Africa from Chemgrit Cosmetics, ProShine is 100% plant-based and fully biodegradable. It can be used in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments, styling creams and finishing products. • Chemgrit Cosmetics – www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Chemyunion – www.chemyunion.com/en

Chemgrit Cosmetics (Pty) Ltd supplies raw materials and ingredients to the cosmetics, skin and personal care industries. - Personalised Service - Outstanding Quality - Reliability - Flexibility www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za | 011 397 4455 info@chemgritsa.co.za | johrinda@chemgritsa.co.za

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

who is a natural at mousse styling? —

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Styleze™ ES-1 is a nature-derived polymer that delivers voluminous style for bouncy, defined waves, and curls. This COSMOS*-validated, biodegradable solution provides improved style durability and 48-hour humidity resistance and is perfect for mousse formulations, both aerosol and non-aerosol, as well as leave-on styling treatments and curl creams. ashland.com/styleze

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HAIR CARE

Long-lasting colour protection, wash after wash Chromapol ColorPOP polymer is a new hair care technology from Lubrizol Life Science Beauty to maintain the intensity and vibrance of colour-treated hair. Its benefits and high performance are supported by Lubrizol’s polymer expertise on colour deposition and film-forming properties. By Narjis Askar, Eulalia Peri, Juliana Gomiero, Elena Cañadas, Jean Xavier and Raquel Delgado of Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Cleveland, US)

ubrizol Life Science Beauty recently launched Chromapol ColorPOP polymer (INCI name: Polyurethane-10) to meet consumers’ need for long-lasting colour protection in permanent, semi-permanent and temporary colour products, as well as in shampoos, conditioners and leave-on treatments. It is suitable for vegan products, easy to use, cold processable and compatible with various dyes, pigments, colourants and surfactants. By speaking to women of different ages who dye their hair periodically, either at home or in-salon, Lubrizol Life Science Beauty identified key consumer insights into their colour protection needs. The conversations also revealed that colouring their hair allows a lot of women to feel good about themselves and it boosts their self-confidence. Women’s top priorities when it comes to colouring their hair include grey coverage, longlasting colour quality from roots to tips, and conditioning performance for healthy-looking hair.

A MULTIFUNCTIONAL SOLUTION FOR VIVID COLOUR Chromapol ColorPOP polymer showed excellent results when tested in hair care products and in hair colouring applications on various hair types, including 100% grey hair. In a permanent hair colour product, Chromapol ColorPOP polymer effectively protected the hue (measured by Delta E) and saturation of colour (measured by Delta L), while maintaining tonality (measured by Delta A) for up to 30 washes compared to a benchmark. Chromapol ColorPOP polymer also extended the life of a semi-permanent colour, which normally lasts six washes, to 10 washes. In sulfated shampoos, the polymer protected colour for up to 20 washes. In a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner combination, colour lasted up to 25 washes.

PERMANENT COLOURATION TEST A test was conducted on 100% grey/white hair tresses to determine Chromapol ColorPOP polymer’s effect on colour protection for up

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 1: Colour protection in permanent colouration – Delta E 30 washes. Results show statistical significance versus the benchmark polymer: **** p < 0.0001

to 30 washes. An average of three tresses per treatment were coloured with intense dark red cherry 6R (CO-0028) permanent hair colour with 0.4%TS Chromapol ColorPOP polymer or a benchmark polymer, mixed with a commercial 20V developer. Thereafter, colour protection was analysed using the TPBRK-0028 method. The permanent colour with Chromapol ColorPOP polymer showed lower Delta E values than the benchmark polymer, helping to protect colour for up to 30 washes (see Figures 1 and 2).

CONDITIONING PERFORMANCE TEST Level-4 European brown hair was used to test the conditioning performance of the polymer. An average of three tresses per treatment were coloured with intense dark red cherry 6R CO-0028 permanent hair colour with 0.4%TS Chromapol ColorPOP polymer, a benchmark polymer, or the control, mixed with commercial 20V developer. Thereafter, the tresses were washed with a 10%TS SLES-2 solution. The results showed Chromapol ColorPOP polymer provided significantly better wet detangling, wet

Figure 2: Colour protection results in permanent colouration shown in pictures of tresses after five and 30 washes

combing, and softness and smoothness performance compared to the control (see Figure 3).

HAIR CARE APPLICATION STUDY To assess colour protection in a sulfated shampoo formulation, 100% grey/white hair tresses were coloured with 6R permanent hair colour (without a conditioning/

Figure 3: Conditioning performance results in permanent colouration show statistical significance versus the control **** p < 0.0001

HAIR CARE

colour protection ingredient), mixed with commercial 20V developer. Thereafter, an average of three tresses per treatment were washed with a sulfated surfactant formulation (4.5%TS SLES-2 and 9.0%TS cocamidopropyl betaine), containing 0.4%TS Chromapol ColorPOP polymer or a benchmark polymer, following the TPBRK-023 method. Then the TP-BRK-0028 method was used to conduct the colour protection assessment. The sulfated surfactant formulation with Chromapol ColorPOP polymer protected the hair colour for up to 20 washes, with significantly better results than the benchmark polymer (see Figure 4 and 5).

CONCLUSION Chromapol ColorPOP polymer maintains a true colour with vibrant tonality and intensity while providing conditioning benefits to the hair fibre. This helps to improve wet and dry feel while restoring softness and smoothness to the hair. The polymer works effectively on all hair shades, including 100% grey. Lubrizol Life Science Beauty has developed several ready-to-market formulations with

Figure 4: Colour protection in sulfated shampoo, Delta E 20 washes. Results show statistical significance versus the benchmark polymer: **** p < 0.0001

Chromapol ColorPOP polymer. These include: • permanent hair colour – intense dark red cherry • semi-permanent hair colour – shimmering pink orchid flower • sulfate-free colour care shampoo • colour vibrancy protecting conditioner • deep nourishment colour reviver temporary mask – intense red cherry. Chromapol ColorPOP polymer is available locally from Carst & Walker, an approved distribution agent of The Lubrizol Corporation. •

Figure 5: Colour protection results in sulfated shampoo formulations shown in pictures of tresses after five and 20 washes The Chromapol trademark is owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates.

Carst & Walker – carst.co.za Lubrizol Life Science Beauty – www.lubrizol.com/beauty

Long-lasting color for a more vibrant you.

Lubrizol International, Inc. 28 River Street I Silverwater NSW 2128, Australia Phone: +61 (02) 9741 5237 | Fax: +61 (02) 9748 4924 E-mail: commercialanz@lubrizol.com © 2021 The Lubrizol Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

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HAIR CARE

Make every day a good hair day

with Definicire

Hair is naturally beautiful. Although natural lipid protection keeps hair healthy, our styling habits tend to weaken it. To help hair regain its natural protection, Gattefossé has harnessed its expertise in lipid chemistry to develop Definicire for hair care applications.

he best way to protect hair is naturally with sebum. This perfect chemicallydesigned natural hair conditioner, and the epicuticle – a lipid layer that includes 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid (18-MEA) – provide lubricity to the hair and constitutes the first line of defence against environmental aggressors. If hair was left alone with regard to styling and colouring and it wasn’t exposed to environmental aggressors, hair would remain healthy and beautiful for a long time. Frequent washing, even with mild shampoos and shower gels, prevents hair from re-lipidating. This coupled with heat, mechanical and chemical aggressors progressively remove the protective lipidic film of the cuticle from the hair shaft. As a result, hair becomes difficult to comb, rough to touch, dull, and prone to tangling and frizz. Consequently, the degradation of its protective layer has a direct impact on the quantity and quality of hair while decreasing its hydrophobicity.

"Gattefossé developed Definicire with the objective to obtain a lipidic composition inspired by natural hair lipids" lipids which does not weigh down hair or leave an unpleasant greasy sensation. It was also important for the composition of Definicire to rival the performance of quats and silicones and for it to be suitable for various hair types. The greasy feel of a lipidic ingredient is a function of the mono-ester carbon chain length. The study of this correlation allows the determination of the ideal chemical composition to combine performance with good sensory attributes (see Figure 1).

PERFECT HAIR IN ALL CLIMATES HAIR CONDITIONING Because hair fibres are non-living structures, damage caused by cosmetics or environmental factors is irreversible. As hair fibres cannot be restored to their original state, external intervention repeated after every wash is highly recommended. For example, it is necessary to use synthetic sebum-like ingredients that minimise static electricity, increase hair shine, improve manageability and help maintain a hairstyle. This is why conditioners were first developed to supply hair with the positive attributes of sebum while avoiding the greasy appearance indicative of dirty hair. Silicones and quaternary compounds are the main ingredients used in conditioners. They are both efficient, in different ways, but have limitations regarding biodegradability and a build-up effect. In addition, they are synthetic and unlike the complex hair lipid layer. To overcome this challenge, Gattefossé developed Definicire with the objective to obtain a lipidic composition inspired by natural hair

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Definicire reinforces the hydrophobicity of hair by recreating the protective lipid layer. This helps to improve hair’s quality in dry and humid conditions. The benefits of Definicire

were evaluated in leave-on and rinse-off conditions and compared to silicone oils and a quaternary ammonium. Various instrumental techniques were used, and the results were confirmed by a consumer test and an expert sensorial evaluation. The hydrophobicity brought by Definicire, used at 2% in a simple emulsion, was evaluated comparatively to silicone oils and a quaternary ammonium used at the same concentration. A goniometer was used to measure the contact angle of a water droplet on the dry film formed by the emulsion applied on a glass plate. Once completely dry, the formulation with Definicire created the most hydrophobic film (see Figure 2). Moreover, due to its optimal affinity and compatibility with hair lipids, Definicire left a very smooth and homogeneous film on the hair surface. An ex vivo test was conducted in Brazil to evaluate hair volume by image analysis. Definicire provided a humidity barrier and allowed for the hairstyle to be maintained (see Figure 3). Indeed, hair volume increased after four hours at 30°C / 75% relative humidity (RH), yet it was visibly limited (see Figure 4).

Figure 1: Relationship between mono-ester carbon chain length and greasy feel

Figure 2: Effect of Definicire on hair’s hydrophobicity enhancement

HAIR CARE Did you know? Definicire is a unique ingredient obtained by interesterification of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax in the presence of polyglycerol. Its composition has been optimised to recreate the performance of sebum and 18-MEA.

The same ex vivo study was used to evaluate the effect of Definicire on frizz and fly-away hair, which it prevented (see Figures 5 and 6). When exposed to high temperatures and humidity levels, curls tend to lose their definition. Size variation of the curl is a good indicator of its shape and definition in drastic climate conditions. When evaluated in a rinse-off conditioner by measuring the hair swatch length after four hours at 30°C and RH >60%, Definicire helped to retain curl shape and definition even in humid weather (see Figure 7). Ease of combing was evaluated by measuring the maximal force necessary to comb a wet and dry hair tress. This test was performed on a regular curly hair type, which was significantly easier to comb both in wet and dry conditions, thanks to Definicire (see Figure 8).

Figure 3: Effect of Definicire on hair in hot and humid conditions

SENSORIAL EVALUATION AND CONSUMER TEST After a cream containing 2% Definicire and a placebo formula were applied to hair tresses, a trained technician evaluated several sensory attributes. A subjective scale was used to determine the difference between the applied products. Definicire enhanced the smooth feel of wet and dry hair without imparting any greasiness or a dull appearance. Although it doesn’t have an untangling effect, Definicire slightly increases hair’s substantivity. Moreover, the texture of the formulation and its application onto hair are not modified by the addition of Definicire. For the consumer test, two groups of ten volunteers with different hair types evaluated a leave-on anti-frizz serum and a rinse-off mask conditioner formulated with 2% Definicire. The evaluation lasted for a period of one week. The volunteers were asked to give their opinions after the initial use of the products and again at the end of the test period. The results of the consumer test show that Definicire is suitable for all hair types and offers key benefits both in leave-on and rinse-off hair care products (see Figure 9). • Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com

Figure 4: Hair volume variation after four hours at 30°C and 75% RH

Figure 5: Effect of Definicire on frizz and fly-away hair

Figure 6: Hair frizz variation after one hour in dry conditions

Figure 7: Size variation of the curl after four hours at 30°C and RH >60%

Figure 8: 1 & 2: Combing force variation in wet and dry conditions Figure 9: Volunteers’ answers to the consumer test questions

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

HAIR CARE

Unlocking the potential of CBD on oily skin and scalp

The current CBD trend has the internet buzzing with over one million tags on social media and over half a million published articles. Strict regulations have stunted research on cannabidiol, but that has not hampered the product’s popularity in the beauty industry. At Infinitec, we believe CBD and other cannabinoids have the potential to be major players as personal care ingredients. By Natascia Grimaldi and Joan Gonzalez

ur latest launch, CBD Oil Balance, available in South Africa from Materia Medica, provides an update on the advances in CBD research to date and confirms the therapeutic potential of CBD for oily skin and scalp. CBD Oil Balance consists of a nanostructured lipid-based carrier enriched by hemp seed oil (HSO) and encapsulated isolated, organic CDB (THC<0.0001%) (see Figure 1). Olah et al. have already suggested that CBD has enormous potential in the treatment of oily skin; previously published in vitro studies have demonstrated that CBD normalises the elevated lipogenesis induced by pro-acne agents, suppresses sebocytes proliferation without affecting their viability and prevents the inflammation associated with pro-acne agents.1, 2 & 3 CBD is a highly lipophilic molecule which impairs its use in oil-free formulations for oily skin and scalp. With Infinitec’s nanostructured lipidic capsules, we close this gap, opening

Personal and Home Care Polymer Manufactures Opacifiers Conditioners Sensory modifiers Rheology modifiers Emulsifiers

Figure 1: Schematic representation of CBD OIL Balance

the floodgates for a powerful oil-soluble active in oil-free formulations for the treatment of oily skin and scalp. CBD Oil Balance unlocks the ultimate potential of CBD, improving CBD’s stability against premature degradation, enhancing its skin penetration and bioavailability, as well as boosting its therapeutic activity on oily skin and scalp working in the synergy with HSO. Clinically proven through two in vivo studies, CBD Oil Balance is effective in the treatment of oily skin thanks to its excellent sebum-regulating capacity (reducing sebum secretion by 33% in 14 days); by decreasing the number, area and size of sebaceous glands by 47%; decreasing anti-acne activity by 37% measured in the presence of porphyrins in skin; and by lessening skin erythema and its noticeable microbiota-balancing therapeutic effect on oily skin. In 28 days, CBD Oil Balance also effectively reduces sebum by 28%, with the best responder showing an 84% reduction, and scalp inflammation by 40%.

ENHANCED STABILITY AND SKIN/SCALP PENETRATION The stability of CBD in CBD Oil Balance (0.1% CBD) has been studied using an HPLC and compared to that of CBD in oil (0.1% CBD in Waglinol). We also studied the skin penetration of free CBD versus CBD Oil Balance, following the OECD 428. CBD shows better stability when encapsulated in CBD Oil Balance as well as an enhanced skin penetration (see Figure 2 A and B). Enhanced penetration is fundamental to ensure CBD Oil Balance reaches the sebaceous glands and exerts its action in both the skin and scalp.

IN VITRO EFFICACY ASSESSMENT

Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za Website: www.cpack.co.za

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

The ability of CBD Oil Balance to inhibit excessive sebum production was demonstrated by oil-red assay. For this study, we used arachnoids acid as a lipogenesis enhancer and untreated sebocytes as the control, as well as sebocytes

HAIR CARE

Figure 2: CBD stability at RT by HPLC (A); CBD penetration kinetic profile in skin (B)

treated with arachnoids acid (20μm) and free CBD (1.5μm) and sebocytes treated with arachnoids acid (20μm) and CBD Oil Balance at 0.05% (CBD = 1.5μm). Oil-red was used to stain the lipids. As we can see from the images, when sebocytes are treated with free CBD or CBD Oil Balance, lipogenesis induced by arachnoids acid is inhibited. A semi-quantitative analysis was also performed, showing CBD Oil Balance reduced the induced lipogenesis by 22%

+40%

Dry combing improvement

–twice as much compared to the ability of free CBD at the same concentration. We have demonstrated that CBD Oil Balance further reduces sebum production by inhibiting mature sebocyte proliferation, without affecting their viability (data not shown for brevity). The anti-inflammatory activity of CBD Oil Balance was assessed in vitro. Human dermal sebocytes were incubated with an inflammation-inducer (LPS) while the expression of TNF-alfa was studied as

+160%

99.8%

specific marker for inflammation. 0.03% CBD Oil Balance (CBD 1μm) efficacy was compared to that of free CBD (1μm). The results are shown in Figure 4. CBD Oil Balance reduced inflammation up to 3.6 times more than free CBD. We can attribute this to the synergy between

+21%

Shine increase

ISO16128 - NOI

"CBD Oil Balance unlocks the ultimate potential of CBD"

Heat resistance

China IECIC 2015

VEGAN

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

HAIR CARE

Figure 3: Oil-Red Assay (A) non-treated sebocytes; (B) sebocytes treated with 20μm arachnoid acid and 1.5μm free CBD; (C) sebocytes treated with 20μm arachnoid acid and 0.05% of CBD Oil Balance (CBD 1.5μm)

CBD and HSO, which is an omega-3 and -6 rich oil. Finally, we assessed CBD Oil Balance’s ability to regulate skin microbiota. In particular, we studied CBD’s ability to regulate the growth of two resident micro-organisms on skin – S. epidermidis and C. acnes. These microorganisms colonise on skin and compete against each other. In a healthy skin, S. epidermidis regulates the growth of C. acnes. Conversely, in an oily skin, S. epidermidis cannot control the over-growth of C. acnes. CBD shows the capability to reduce the growth of C. acnes, without affecting the growth of S. epidermidis, re-establishing a balance between the two species. This last result supports the hypothesis that CBD has a microbiota-balancing therapeutic effect.

SKIN CARE IN VIVO EFFICACY ASSESSMENT To study the efficacy of CBD Oil Balance, a panel of 14 male and female volunteers aged between 18 and 35 years and with oily skin applied a water-based serum formulated with 2% CBD Oil Balance twice a day for four weeks. Measurements were taken at 0, 14 and 28 days. The following parameters were analysed:

• quantity of sebum on the skin surface (lipid index by Sebumeter) • number, size and area of sebaceous glandules (Sebufix) • anti-acne efficacy (C. acnes activity expressed as porphyrins, Visiopor) • anti-inflammation activity and desquamation (dermatological evaluation). CBD Oil Balance showed excellent sebumregulating capacity, reducing sebum secretion by 33% in 14 days, with a 77% reduction noted for the best responder. It reduced the number, area and size of the sebaceous glands by 47% with the best responder showing a 90% reduction. A 37% reduction measured in the presence of porphyrins in skin confirmed the outstanding anti-acne activity of CBD Oil Balance and its ability to reduce skin erythema. Figure 5 shows pictures of volunteer #9 after 0, 14 and 28 days of treatment with CBD Oil Balance. A reduction in both the inflammation (nose and cheeks) and skin imperfections is evident, as well as a general improvement in skin radiance and texture.

SCALP CARE IN VIVO EFFICACY ASSESSMENT A panel of 20 volunteers (mixed gender, ranging in age from 18 to 60 years) tested

Figure 5: Anti-acne treatment, clinical observation. Front view photographs of volunteer #9

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Figure 4: Anti-inflammatory activity of CBD Oil Balance versus free CBD measured by the expression of the TNF-alpha marker

"CBD Oil Balance shows excellent sebum-regulating capacity" the efficacy of CBD Oil Balance on the scalp by applying a leave-on, water-based lotion formulated with 2% of the active ingredient. The volunteers applied the lotion every night for four weeks before going to sleep. Measurements were taken at 0, 14 and 28 days. The following parameters were analysed: • quantity of sebum on the scalp surface (lipid index by Sebumeter) • number, size and area of sebaceous glandules (Sebufix) • anti-dandruff activity (observation with micro-camera and dermatological evaluation) • anti-inflammation activity (observation with micro-camera and dermatological evaluation). Similar to the results obtained in the skin care assessment, in 28 days CBD Oil Balance reduced sebum, dandruff and inflammation on the scalp by 28% and 40%

Figure 6: Micro-camera observation of the scalp of volunteer #14 at 0, 14 and 28 days

HAIR CARE

Did you know? With its water-dispersible, PEG-free lipid capsule technology, Infinitec is able to create a gateway for oil actives in aqueous-based formulations, improving their penetration and bioavailability within skin.

Figure 6: Micro-camera observation of the scalp of volunteer #12 at 0, 14 and 28 days

respectively. Figure 6 shows pictures of volunteer #14 at 0, 14 and 28 days, and the reduction of sebum and dandruff is noticeable. Figure 7 shows pictures of volunteer #12 at 0, 14 and 28 days, with a significant reduction in inflammation as a result of the treatment.

and hair. Incorporating cannabidiol into a delivery system not only improved its stability and performance, but also made it easy to incorporate into an aqueous formulation, which is more suitable for oily skin. CBD Oil Balance demonstrated the efficacy of cannabidiol (in synergy with HSO) as a sebum regulator and anti-inflammatory agent, with positive effects to help achieve normal, healthier skin. Further studies are on-going with regard to this in order to assess and support the activity of CBD Oil Balance on skin microbiota. •

CONCLUSIONS Treatment of the skin with cannabidiol not only presented a lack of clinical efficacy data but also some challenges when formulating with the ingredient. With CBD Oil Balance, the possibilities of treating disorders derived from excess sebum are explored from a comprehensive perspective of both skin

REFERENCES: 1. Ohla et al., J Clin Invest. 2014;124(9):3713–3724 2. Ohla et al., J Clin Invest. 2014;124(9):3713–3724 3. Ohla et al., J Clin Invest. 2014;124(9):3713–3724

Infinitec – infinitec.es Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

BEAUTY MEETS SUSTAINABILITY BELSIL ® ECO

Sustainable production of beauty products now has a name: BELSIL® eco. WACKER is the first manufacturer in the world to offer valuable silicones manufactured according to methods that have been certified to conserve resources – and that use biomethanol from natural sources. This not only conserves fossil-based raw materials: the use of renewable biobased materials also sets a benchmark when it comes to sustainable production using silicone ingredients. And you benefit from environmentally friendly silicone additives of consistently high quality. So use BELSIL® eco and make your production processes responsible and environmentally sound. More information is available at: www.wacker.com/belsileco wacker.com/socialmedia

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06.04.21 10:25

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

BEAUTY PACKAGING

MINI CASE PACKER offers a suitable sustainable packaging solution Thanks to Cama’s new mini wraparound case packer, a leading global home and healthcare product manufacturer has managed to transform its packaging processes and infrastructure to be more sustainable. Cama’s expertise was also key in helping the customer overcome several challenges that transpired during the process.

here are many reasons why companies look to reinvent their packaging infrastructure and processes, such as the need for increased speed, greater throughput or enhanced flexibility. However, with modern legislation and current consumer sentiments, these days the overriding factor is sustainability. With single-use plastics broadly shunned worldwide, it is not surprising that many brand owners are transitioning to recyclable materials, with cardboard being one of the most popular choices. Although the move seeks to fulfil a brand owner’s environmental objectives and mandates, it also creates an entirely new set of issues. The company will have to undertake a complete redesign process – from the new materials and concepts for primary product packaging to new machines and plant layout configurations, moving on to the

secondary packaging and again the new materials and packaging designs, finally ending at palletising. This can be a daunting task, even for large multinationals. Yet, the Cama Group managed to simplify the entire process for its customer, which manufactures home and healthcare products on a global scale.

RESPONSIBLE CHOICES AND THEIR CHALLENGES Cama’s customer owns many globally-recognised brands. As an indirect responsibility, the customer must be viewed as taking the lead in sustainability efforts. In many markets its products are packaged in secondary

Cardboard folding cartons are a popular packaging choice for brands that are committed to sustainability

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Did you know? Cama Group is one of seven specialised Made in Italy producers which established The Smart Packaging Hub last year. This digital platform provides a virtual meeting place for end-users of automated packaging machines, specifically in the food and beverage industry. End-users are required to register online to gain access to the hub’s wide range of benefits. Go to smartpackaginghub.com/en for more information.

containers, which double as shelf-ready display cases. The problem is these containers often consist of plastic, in the secondary shell/skin and in the trays used to orient the products. The challenge in this instance was to revert to a 100% cardboard packaging concept that is quick and easy to open and display. It was also important for the products to be presented in a way that did not detract from the quality of the brand. This particular product is a selfadministered cold remedy. Interestingly, these packaging and display challenges weren’t unique to the cold remedy product as the customer had reported several similar occurrences in its entire healthcare product range. On further investigation it was determined that the same challenges occur worldwide in countries where there is a home healthcare industry.

BEAUTY PACKAGING

flexibility and adaptability required by modern packaging operations. The machine range is also based on a digital platform that supports full industry 4.0 capabilities, including AR, VR and virtual testing, training and operation.”

The FW746 wraparound case packer from Cama features a compact design and small footprint of just 3500mm

A STEP AHEAD OF MARKET DEMANDS

FROM CONCEPT TO COMPLETION Cama added value to the project from the outset. Alessandro Rocca, the group’s sales engineering director, explains: “Firstly, we played a key role in a lengthy design process led by our customer with the aim of creating new secondary packaging and a display concept for the product. We have a highly experienced packaging design team within the group which has helped to create thousands of great packaging ideas over the years. While some were simple and effective, others have been incredibly intricate.” After a series of tests and deliberations, the new design concept was finalised while taking into consideration the capabilities of packaging machinery. “The machinery naturally influences all design processes as there are multiple technologies on the market. However, in this instance, a lack of factory real estate meant that only certain machine types and styles could be deployed, which helped define the packaging design,” Rocca adds.

NEW CASE PACKER WITH A SMALLER FOOTPRINT Other suppliers, who were invited to tender for the project, suggested top-loading packaging machines for the job. But Cama’s new FW746 wraparound case packer provided the best solution. Fresh out of the group’s

" The FW746 benefits from being part of the BTG family, which is setting a new standard in secondary packaging" R&D department, the case packer is the latest addition to its class-leading breakthrough generation (BTG) series. According to Rocca, many of its competitors struggle to combine a high-speed secondary packaging line within a limited space. Meeting speed requirements repeatably and efficiently is no challenge for the group and, with the FW746, this can be done on a machine with a reduced footprint – up to 3m smaller than competitor machines. “The FW746 also benefits from being part of the BTG family, which is setting a new standard in secondary packaging,” he explains. “The modular, scalable and hygienically-designed frameworks house contemporary automation solutions – including advanced rotary and linear servo technology – which can be tightly coupled to robotics developed in-house. This delivers the all-important

There were a few twists in the final stages of the project despite the customer’s actual packaging procedure being relatively simple. “We had to flip the products 180° prior to the secondary packaging process. We then devised a very simple concept, which not only delighted the engineers at our customer, but also proved to be far more reliable than some of the more complex ideas on the market,” Rocca adds. Full traceability and checking in place were also required by the customer. This system would need to check, print and verify the carton and its coding before it moved on to the palletiser. Data from the system is collated and shared across a network, which tightly integrates the packaging machine with up- and downstream processes. “We are fortunate to have a very good relationship with this customer, having successfully delivered packaging solutions to its other factories across the globe,” Rocca comments. It’s taken years to establish this depth of understanding and trust between the customer and Cama – a relationship which Rocca stresses “is never taken for granted”. “Whether it’s our first or 100th order, at Cama we put the same amount of effort, dedication and expertise into every job. Although this was a reasonably standard packaging request, we devoted significant resources to the project – including our packaging design team – to ensure the customer was fully satisfied,” he says. “While it might seem like we were fortunate to have a machine that fitted the application perfectly, it wasn’t down to luck. Cama really studies the market in order to predict customers’ needs. The proactive introduction of the FW746 is just a small part of our strategy to meet modern packaging demands.” • Cama Group – www.camagroup.com USS Pactech – www.usspactech.co.za

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Coding and marking technologies to elevate your brand Packaging is used to inform the consumer about the purpose and contents of a product, its expiry date and production series. With new technologies on the market, this range of information can be vastly extended. TracePack provides solutions for different coding, identification and traceability needs, bringing together the most appropriate technologies for beauty packaging.

ith the Internet of Things (IoT) on the rise worldwide, cosmetics and beauty brands could benefit from smart packaging. However, the concept remains a unique niche in these categories, leaving a gap in the market for designers to create some highly innovative and fun packaging. Smart packaging and connected packaging are two different things. Smart packaging uses technology to become more than just a container, for example to provide brand content or in-depth product info to consumers. Connected packaging finds applications in almost all retail product categories, including cosmetics. How it works is a QR code is printed on the packaging which consumers can scan using a mobile device to access layers and layers of informative content.

NEXT-LEVEL LASER MARKING Laser technology can be used to apply QR codes on a wide range of materials such as plastics, cardboard, glass, etc. using a clean and safe process that ensures great legibility, permanence and low maintenance costs. However, the most appropriate marking and coding technology is determined by the characteristics of the container, which could be a glass jar, deodorant can, hard plastic makeup palette, glass perfume bottle or PET body butter tub, for example. According to TracePack, its latest laser system is the fastest and most complete solution on the market for packaging digitisation. It operates at a speed of

Did you know? The UV-invisible polymer thermal ink used to print watermarks or codes on packaging to verify a product’s authenticity could perform particularly well in the fine fragrance category, which is continually infiltrated by waves of fake products.

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

1000m/minute providing high-definition marking without loss of quality. It is also said to be the world’s only laser marker system that can continuously mark more than 100 unique QR codes per second and provides item-level traceability information to producers, distributors and consumers.

AVOID DIFFICULTIES IN VISUAL INSPECTION When it comes to makeup and colour cosmetics, packaging formats have evolved significantly in line with trends and consumer preferences. Kits and palettes are increasingly customisable with each design differing in the selection and placement of a product’s contents. This has resulted in complexities when visually inspecting makeup kits for completeness and correctness. Growth in colour combinations and texture ranges have also made it difficult to programme conventional machine vision systems to identify missing components or incorrect palette combinations. Not detecting these small errors in a product’s contents may pose several risks to the manufacturer, including a loss of reputation and sales.

COMPLY WITH TRACEABILITY REQUIREMENTS Printed text on every container must be confirmed, specifically the date/lot information, product line ID, and other information relating to the traceability of a product. Although a conventional optical character recognition (OCR) with a fixed-mount vision system can accurately read characters on containers at high speeds, once the distance and orientation of the packages are determined, any change of scale, angle, colour or background pattern requires significant adjustment or even system reprogramming, making it difficult to produce and track smaller runs of various products. Regulatory compliance increasingly demands full product traceability, with

The characteristics of a container, such as this deodorant can, determine the most appropriate technology to use for coding and marking

Laser technology is used to apply a QR code on a wide range of packaging materials, including plastics

penalties for traceability failures. As a result, the accurate determination of product text without slowing production is essential in cosmetics manufacturing. TracePack’s deep learning solution can be used on a production line to accurately read challenging OCR codes on packaging. Whatever the material used, the wide range of solutions from TracePack guarantee the clear, permanent and secure marking of batch numbers and QR codes on all cosmetics packaging, be it makeup, sunscreens, fragrances or hair care products. • TracePack – www.tracepack.co.za

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Colgate’s first recyclable Colgate’ toothpaste tube comes to SA

Most toothpaste tubes today are made from sheets of plastic laminate – usually a combination of different plastics – sandwiched around a thin layer of aluminium. The mix of materials makes it impossible to recycle through conventional methods. Colgate South Africa is changing this trend with the launch of its new Naturals toothpaste range packaged in the company’s first recyclable plastic tube and in a recycled carton box.

he Colgate Naturals range uses high density polyethylene (HDPE) sourced from an international supplier. HDPE is the same plastic used to produce milk jugs and other plastic bottles that are already widely recycled. The tube has received international recognition from The Association of Plastic Recyclers and RecyClass, an initiative that works on improving recyclability of packaging, which sets recyclability standards for North America and Europe respectively. In terms of local partnerships with industry bodies such as Plastics SA, Colgate says it is currently investigating opportunites and will be able to share more on this later this year. “Building on ongoing efforts to help people make small, sustainable changes for the better, the recyclable tube is a way Colgate is improving the sustainability profile of our products to help achieve our aim of 100% recyclable packaging by 2025. With this breakthrough, we’re proudly helping to

Did you know? Worldwide, toothpaste alone accounts for an estimated 20bn tubes annually. Colgate is sharing its innovative technology with competitors as part of its commitment to transform one of the most widely used forms of plastic packaging, which up until now could not be recycled.

build a more environmentally friendly future for generations to come,” said Francois Falls, general manager, Colgate South Africa.

INITIATING A GLOBAL SHIFT Colgate wants to make tubes a part of the circular economy by keeping this plastic productive and eliminating waste. “We’re very excited to bring this recyclable technology to life in South Africa. If recyclable tubes are standardised among all companies, we all win. We want all toothpaste tubes, and eventually all kinds of tubes, to meet the same third-party recycling standards that we’ve achieved. We can

The Colgate Naturals range includes the charcoal, hemp seed oil and aloe vera variants, which contain carefully selected, essential ingredients that are 99.7% of natural origin

align on these common standards for tubes and still compete with what’s inside them,” adds Falls. Colgate’s 2025 Sustainability & Social Impact Strategy focuses on three ambitions: promoting well-being and inclusivity; helping people develop healthy habits; and preserving and improving the environment. These ambitions are supported by actionable targets that uphold Colgate’s continued commitment to building environmental and social consciousness into every decision. •

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Reduce, reuse, recycle

–a packaging designer’s viewpoint Traditionally, the greatest challenge when working in the beauty industry has been the need to design a product and its packaging in a manner that captures the eye of the consumer, within a product-dense, luxury goods market. However, in recent years, designing with the environment in mind has strongly emerged as an additional consideration. This presents a significant challenge, writes Todd Anderson.

or few is the fact that a product is eco-friendly a strong enough selling point on its own. So as designers, we are presented with the challenge of how to incorporate eco-friendly concepts into the design of a product often intended to make people feel indulged. ‘Reduce, reuse, recycle’, a mantra of eco-friendly living, can be applied as a guide to address this challenge.

REDUCED PACKAGING The concept of ‘reduce’ speaks easily to the need to use less packaging. While this responsibility ultimately lies with the brand owner, it is strongly influenced by the proposed design of a product’s packaging. With the historical overuse of packaging, many manufacturers have long since made this logical step and trends in packaging usage have changed. Soaps have made a comeback, in part due to their minimal packaging, and similarly other products are now being created in solid formats.

"Is it fair to question how far eco-friendly beauty packaging can progress without first changing perceptions?" However, the simple reduction of packaging does give rise to most of the new design challenges and questions. For example, how do we design in a manner that not only uses minimal packaging but also ensures a product is protected and reaches the consumer in optimum condition? In the case of products that have moved towards being refillable, or even the ‘bring your own container’ concept, how do we ensure that branding information and appeal remain visible? Lastly and possibly most current, in times of COVID-19, do we sustain a

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Soaps packaged in tins (above) and wrapped in scarves (below). These projects by Todd Anderson illustrate the ‘reuse’ concept

reduction in packaging when people clearly feel attracted to and comforted by extra protective barriers on a product?

REUSABLE CONCEPTS ‘Reuse’ lays down a pure creative challenge to designers to design packaging in such a way that it carries a clear second purpose. Innovations in this regard can be seen in gift packaging, for example housing tissuewrapped premium soaps within tins, which are then repurposed as money or trinket boxes; or products packaged in beautiful reusable wooden boxes, as opposed to cardboard; or wrapped in wearable scarves.

RECYCLABLE PACKAGING While recyclable packaging is the obvious answer to the third concept of ‘recycle’, with only a minimal amount of waste recycled in South Africa and millennials noted to be the least likely to recycle (StatsSA.gov.za), there is an onus on packaging designers to: • educate the market on recyclable materials

• intentionally design packaging incorporating already recycled materials • promote the use of eco-friendly print and manufacturing processes. Designing labels in a manner that reduces print waste, using vegetable inks and clever interlocking, non-glued packaging and promoting vessels made from alternative innovative materials are all examples that are only possible if designers maintain awareness of the available options and if brands and manufacturers are willing to embrace these concepts. However, perhaps fundamentally limiting to any of the ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’ concepts, is the perception held by those in the beauty industry as to what is regarded as a premium product. With non-eco-friendly materials such as foils and metallised elements, small volume sizes and non-refillable products featuring so commonly among premium brands, is it fair to question how far eco-friendly beauty packaging can progress without first changing perceptions – and how much of the responsibility for this change sits with us as designers? •

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Todd Anderson is the founder and creative director of Todd Anderson Design, a studio specialising in innovative and sustainable branding and packaging design for multinational clients and products across a varied range of industries. Follow @toddandersondesign on Instagram or send an email to info@toddandersondesign.com for more information.

Todd Anderson Design – www.toddandersondesign.com

Marchesini Group Beauty Lines

beauty.marchesini.com

THE TOTAL PACKAGE

Marchesini Group Beauty produces a wide range of cosmetic packaging machinery that handles the packaging process from start to finish. Now that the Group has also added the extraordinary expertise of brands such as Axomatic, Cosmatic, Dumek and V2 engineering, the Total Package solutions have never been so complete.

BEAUTY PACKAGING

The total package for

cosmetics

The Marchesini Group, which designs and produces a wide range of packaging machines and manufacturing lines for the pharmaceutical industry, inaugurated a dedicated beauty packaging business unit at the beginning of 2020. Marchesini Group Beauty is based at the new 9 000m 2 purpose-built facility located at the group’s Pianoro headquarters in Bologna, Italy, where it operates independently.

n addition to the group’s branded cosmetics manufacturing and packing solutions, Marchesini Group Beauty includes the technology and expertise of group-owned brands Axomatic, Dumek, V2 Engineering and, most recently, Cosmatic. These are all highly specialised Italian brands that provide solutions for processing and packing a vast range of cosmetic products. The group has acquired these Italian brands over the last three years with the aim of extending its range of solutions for the global cosmetics industry. Today, Marchesini Group Beauty offers technologies that give machines and lines superb versatility, allowing them to handle all types of cosmetics products, in any material – from glass and plastic to metal – and of every possible shape and size, from classic to unconventional designs. These technologies are available in South Africa from MGSA Projects.

COMPLEX TECHNOLOGY FOR LIPSTICKS The acquisition of Cosmatic enables Marchesini Group Beauty to expand its expertise in an industry segment that utilises some of the most complex technologies to manufacture and pack makeup. One of these is the technology used to process lipsticks from a paste, which is a waxy gel formed from waxes jellified with oil, fat and resin, coloured with pigments and supplemented with aromas, antioxidants and a series of active

PLAY VIDEO 38

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

"Cosmatic is a leader in the field of lipstick and lip balm moulding machines"

BEAUTY PACKAGING

Marchesini Group Beauty to attend OnBeauty by Cosmoprof Taking place in Bologna from 9 to 13 September, OnBeauty by Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is set to be the first trade show since the start of the pandemic which will bring together the global cosmetics industry.

Lipstick manufacturing equipment from Cosmatic

ingredients, and moulded into a product of different shapes and sizes after being poured into cool silicone moulds. In addition to technologies for the production of lipstick, Cosmatic specialises in solutions for fill-in cosmetic powders. The company was established in the Lombardy cosmetics district of Italy where 500 businesses – concentrated in the quadrilateral between Crema, Bergamo, Milan and Brianza – produce over half of the total number of makeup products consumed worldwide. Its founder, Giuseppe Del Piccolo, started the company in February 2005 with the vision to design, manufacture and assemble extremely innovative, high-tech machinery for the cosmetics industry. Today, Cosmatic is a leader in the field of lipstick and lip balm moulding machines, with a presence in the most important markets worldwide. Thanks to Del Piccolo’s numerous years of experience and continuous research and innovation, Cosmatic offers unique

The Cosmatic factory

An aerial view of Marchesini Group headquarters, including the new Beauty Division

manufacturing and packing equipment, which is supported by exclusive patents. It also offers equipment with a high level of flexibility and automation, supporting customers’ operations where there is a need to reduce manual input.

INTEGRATED SOLUTIONS FOR COSMETICS “Although the use of masks and face coverings had reduced purchases of lipsticks and other makeup products, we regard Cosmatic as a partner of great importance as it is one of only a few Italian companies to possess such specific expertise,” explains Pietro Cassani, CEO of the Marchesini Group. “For 2021, our aim is to replicate in the cosmetics segment our current activities in the pharmaceutical segment through the creation of entire production lines equipped to carry out all the operations requested by a customer, from the processing to final packaging of a product. We are convinced that once the pandemic begins to subside, sales of fast-moving consumer goods, such as makeup products, will pick up again.” Renato Ancorotti, chairman of Cosmetica Italia, the association of Italian cosmetics businesses, adds: “Despite strong pre-Covid growth, manufacturers of cosmetic products have also undergone substantial changes since the start of the pandemic – from the expansion of beauty routines to focusing closely on green and sustainable cosmetics and to greater awareness of safety issues. According to provisional figures, the Italian cosmetics market was worth €9.6bn in 2020, down 9.3% compared to 2019 figures. 2021 is proving to be a year of transition for the industry, before making a complete recovery in 2022.” • Marchesini Group Beauty – beauty.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – mgsaprojects.co.za

The exhibition will offer all beauty industry players the opportunity to meet face to face in a multidisciplinary show format colocated with SANA, the international exhibition of organic and natural products, and COSMOFARMA, the key event for those working in healthcare, beauty care and pharmacy services. Marchesini Group Beauty will be exhibiting in Bologna on 9 and 10 September with a selection of laboratory machines on display, including the Axomix 10 turboemulsifier for producing creams, lotions and toothpastes, built by the Axomatic brand; and an e-Filly full electric filling machine produced by Dumek. The Tap Tap Test laboratory machine developed by Cosmatic will also be on show. This machine is used to check the fitting of sticks in packaging. “OnBeauty by Cosmoprof will be the first opportunity in a very long time to meet and talk about beauty and wellbeing face to face,” comments Valentina Marchesini, director of the Marchesini Group’s Beauty division. “In the year when the pandemic has forced us to wear face masks and discouraged the use of makeup, we have officially opened our Beauty Division at our Pianoro headquarters and acquired an Italian company that specialises in the production of lipstick machines. While this may seem crazy, we consider it a strategic choice to enable us to replicate in the cosmetics segment what we are already doing for the pharmaceutical segment. The Bologna exhibition will be an opportunity to discuss new market trends with all supply chain players. The health emergency has heightened the focus on issues of sustainability, health and personal care – the world has never needed beauty as much as it does now.”

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

PHARMA FOCUS: SUPPLY CHAIN & LOGISTICS

Injecting a boost into Dubai’s vaccine transportation capacity The temperature-sensitive pharma and vaccine handling capabilities of Emirates SkyCargo are being strengthened with the extension of its fully-automated cool room to 94 airline pallet positions. Situated at Dubai International Airport in the UAE, the carrier’s dedicated pharma facility is EU GDP-certified.

he extended cool room will provide 2 600m² of additional temperaturecontrolled space (monitored between 2°C and 25°C) for the storage and handling of vaccines and other pharmaceuticals. This development reinforces the position of Emirates SkyCargo as an industry leader in the air transportation of pharmaceuticals and provides additional capacity at the Dubai hub to meet the growing demand for the transportation of COVID-19 vaccines. It is estimated the new extension will provide enough additional capacity to store between 60m and 90m doses of COVID-19 vaccines at one time.

ENSURING GLOBAL ACCESS TO VACCINES Emirates SkyCargo continues to play an important part in the international distribution of COVID-19 vaccines. Since late last year, the carrier has transported over 75m doses of COVID-19 vaccines on more than 250 flights to over 60 destinations. “Emirates SkyCargo is proud to have flown over 350 tonnes of COVID-19 vaccines around the world, delivering much-needed support to communities that are still heavily impacted by the current wave of the pandemic. As we are also always looking

Did you know? By the end of June, Emirates SkyCargo surpassed the 100m mark of COVID-19 vaccine doses transported by the carrier. This was due to the increased demand to transport COVID-19 vaccines to developing nations. ahead, we anticipated an increase in the demand to transport vaccines to developing nations during the second half of 2021. We also saw the transported volumes of COVID-19 vaccines ramping up in the second quarter, in line with increased manufacturing output,” said Nabil Sultan, Emirates divisional senior vice president, cargo. He also said the last six months have provided a mutual opportunity for Emirates SkyCargo, pharmaceutical manufacturers and their logistics partners to gain valuable knowledge and experience from one another. “We have been able to apply these learnings to enhance the efficiency and increase the speed of vaccine transportation, providing a considerable boost to the next phase of COVID-19 vaccine distribution while supporting future developments around other temperature-sensitive pharma products,” Sultan added.

A PROACTIVE TIMELINE OF EVENTS According to Emirates SkyCargo, it was one of the first air cargo carriers to begin extensive preparations during the early stages of the pandemic for the transportation of COVID-19 vaccines. In October 2020, the carrier established a dedicated, GDP-certified airside hub in Dubai for transporting COVID-19 vaccines. It now has over 20 000m2 of EU GDP-certified cool chain infrastructure in Dubai for storing and handling COVID-19 vaccines. This hub is also home to more than 50 dedicated cool dollies for pharmaceuticals to protect temperaturesensitive shipments during transit between the aircraft and the cargo terminal. At the beginning of 2020, Emirates SkyCargo joined hands with DP World, International Humanitarian City and Dubai Airports to form the Dubai Vaccine Logistics Alliance aimed at rapidly transporting COVID-19 vaccines through Dubai to developing countries. Shortly after that in February, the carrier signed an MoU with UNICEF to expedite the transportation of COVID-19 vaccines under the COVAX initiative.

COMMITTED TO HELPING COMMUNITIES IN NEED In addition to COVID-19 vaccines, since the start of the pandemic, Emirates SkyCargo has transported thousands of tonnes of essential goods, such as PPE, pharmaceuticals and related supplies on its flights to areas in need. The carrier has also established a humanitarian airbridge initiative to transport goods for COVID-19 relief to nine destinations in India. Where possible on Emirates SkyCargo’s flights from Dubai, it allocates available cargo capacity to NGOs on a complementary basis to help them transport urgent medical supplies and other essentials destined for India. •

An interior view of Emirates SkyCargo’s certified pharma facility located at Dubai International Airport

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

Emirates SkyCargo – www.skycargo.com

PHARMA FOCUS: SUPPLY CHAIN & LOGISTICS

A customisable solution to overcome new challenges in supply chain mobility Since the start of the pandemic, e-commerce and transport and logistics businesses have experienced a complete upheaval. As COVID-19 has completely changed the rules of business, transport and logistics providers now require specific, customised solutions to navigate the ever-changing landscape.

ransport and logistics operations are faced with different challenges these days in addition to having to maintain health and safety measures and COVID-19 protocols. There are new supply chain demands, e-commerce pressures and changing customer requirements for providers to overcome. “This is why we included features in our mobility solutions to efficiently manage social distancing, cleaning procedures and device traceability, while ensuring service levels are maintained and transport and logistics operations continue unrestricted,” explains Simon Grisdale, managing executive of Bidvest Mobility – a mobile computing and barcoding solutions partner mainly to large players in the transport and logistics sector with some customers in other sectors. Mobile computing and barcoding devices, such as barcode scanners, handheld computers and barcode printers are essential in daily transport and logistics operations. They are used to automate processes and efficiently manage the movement of goods throughout the supply chain. These devices frequently change hands among operators who work shifts, making it crucial to include cleaning and disinfection processes both before and after device usage. A chain of custody is also necessary

to track mobile device users and ensure COVID-19 safety protocols and reporting are maintained, further adding to the challenges facing providers.

ENSURING CONNECTED AND PRODUCTIVE EMPLOYEES In response to the changing needs of operators, Bidvest Mobility has partnered with Honeywell and FarEye to develop a completely customisable solution for transport and logistics. “The new offering consists of specialised hardware, software and services that can help transform operations and increase their accuracy, productivity and efficiency in line with today’s global requirements,” Grisdale explains. Part of the customisable mobility solution is the Honeywell operational intelligence software. This remote asset management platform assists with maintaining productivity among mobile-equipped employees, while helping them respond to local site health and safety compliance requirements. Features include asset checkout/check-in, remote control and device system wipe, device cleaning manager, and social distance proximity detector.

Honeywell Smart Talk is included in the offering to ensure companies stay connected to their employees, which is particularly relevant during pandemic conditions. “This unified workforce communications app can be installed on all the mobile devices within an operation, offering employees the benefits of being connected and giving them access to critical information from company headquarters and operational dispatch while out on the road doing deliveries. Also included is enterprise-grade security for voice calling, text and media messaging, and user presence,” Grisdale adds. • Bidvest Mobility – www.bidvestmobility.co.za

Efficiency in motion. Automation with the smart all-rounder. Versatile application, sustainable operation, seamless integration: Optimise your logistics processes with our new EKS 215a – the Automated Guided Vehicle for automated high stack applications. Find out more at www.jungheinrich.co.za Efficiency in motion. Automation with Jungheinrich.

WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA // AUGUST 2021

Tea

THE KENDAL GROUP

time

Are you looking for good quality base creams into which you can safely mix your essential oils, tinctures or other additives? If so, contact The Kendal Group for a quote. The Kendal Group manufactures and supplies standard aqueous creams, natural almond oil aqueous creams and hand & body lotions in bulk quantities for onward blending and packing.

Take a breather

Our contact details are: Phone 033-330 5341 E-mail hubers@mweb.co.za or Website www.hubers.co.za

>>>MOVIE QUIZ 1. Who directed the 2003 movie, Kill Bill? 2. Who played Virginia Woolf in the 2002 movie, The Hours? 3. Which character was played by Dustin Hoffman in the 1988 movie, Rain Man? 4. Which actor starred in the 2003 movie, The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen? 5. Who was Miles Massey in the 2003 movie, Intolerable Cruelty?

6. Who was John Nash in the 2001 movie, A Beautiful Mind? 7. Who played the part of Errol Flynn in the 2004 movie, The Aviator? 8. Who starred in the 2001 movie, Ali? 9. Who was John Dunbar in the 1990 movie, Dances with Wolves? 10. Who directed the 2003 movie, Mystic River?

Answers: Quentin Tarantino, Nicole Kidman, Raymond Babbitt, Sean Connery, George Clooney, Russell Crowe, Jude Law, Will Smith, Kevin Costner, Clint Eastwood

contact

To advertise in Anita Raath

Carla Melless

Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

+27 (0)83 260 6060

www.pharmacos.co.za

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

ADVERTISERS' INDEX 06 Agencies SA...................................................21.....www.o6southafrica.com

Jungheinrich South Africa ................. 41........www.jungheinrich.co.za

Carst & Walker/Lubrizol Life Science.........25.....carst.co.za/

MGSA Projects .....................................37........beauty.marchesini.com

www.lubrizol.com/beauty

Moco Packaging ..................................... 5........www.mocopack.co.za

Chempack Industries.......................................28.....www.cpack.co.za

Savannah Fine Chemicals.................19........www.savannah.co.za

CJP Chemicals ....................................................OFC..www.cjpchemicals.co.za

Vantage Specialty Chemicals .........29........www.vantagegrp.com

Danlink Ingredients..........................................OBC..www.sisterna.com

Vega Controls SA ................................IFC........www.vega.com/vegabar

IMCD SA ...............................................................23.....ashland.com/styleze

Wacker .....................................................31........www.wacker.com/belsileco

ISW Shrink............................................................35.....iswshrink.co.za

Millchem .................................................20........www.millchem.co.za

Chemgrit Cosmetics ........................................22.....www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za

AUGUST 2021 // WWW.PHARMACOS.CO.ZA

ONLINE

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ website will find information on membership, educational programmes (specific details pertaining to the Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the personal care industry.

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives

www.coschem.co.za

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers, plastic containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Phone: +27 (0) 11 661 7914 Cell: +27 (0) 81 399 9737 E-mail: peter.moopeloa@bureauveritas.com

BOTANICHEM

FORMPAK For over 50 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical,

BOTANICHEM is a supplier of specialist ingredients to the cosmetic and personal care industry, with a particular focus on plant-derived ingredients which support sustainable supply and fair-trade practice. We also aim to understand the needs of clients and to source the

food and dairy industries.

appropriate ingredient, at the right price.

Tel: +27 (0) 11 828 8870/1/2 Fax: +27 (0) 11 828 8880

www.botanichem.co.za

email: haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com Manufactured, marketed and distributed under licence of SPECTRATEC INC. CANADA Canada . South Africa . Ireland . Germany . Australia . UK

Sisterna is represented by Danlink Ingredients (Pty) Ltd. In South Africa. (JHB) 011 7047261 (CPT) 021 9139818 info@danlink.com www.danlink.com

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review August 2021

Articles inside

Reduce, reuse, recycle – a packaging designer’s viewpoint

Coding and marking technologies to elevate your brand

Mini case packer

Potential of CBD on oily skin & scalp

Beyond conditioning

Sustainable solutions for hair care

Cannabis in the cosmetics industry

Long-lasting colour protection, wash after wash

Eco-friendly active ingredient for hair that shines

Define curls naturally with a soft and flexible hold

Toxicology test acceptance sparks a welcome departure from animal testing

All you need to know about cruelty-free testing, microplastics and cannabis in cosmetics

Innovative technology delivers pure pearlescent pigments with unrivalled effects