Beyond Malbec

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A seasoned wine professional, James Alford of Cork and Cap chronicles the history and popularity of Malbec. He introduces two lesser-known grapes that are up and coming superstars. His insight into this region will have you adding some new varieties to your list of favorites.

Argentina’s Wine Story

Argentina has one of the oldest wine-growing traditions in the New World, with its first vines being planted by various Spanish missionaries in the mid-1500s. In the decades following, leaders called upon international wine experts to help. A provincial governor, Domingo Sarmiento, instructed the French agronomist Miguel Aimé Pouget to bring grapevine cuttings from France to Argentina. Of the vines that Pouget brought were the very first Malbec vines to be planted in that country. Malbec would actually be a secondary player for the next few centuries, but of course today we know it as the grape that defines Argentine wine tradition.

With a staggering array of European immigrants shaping their culture over half a millennium, Argentina has one of the more diverse populations in the Western hemisphere. Settlers from Spain have had the most obvious influence in terms of language and architecture; however, appreciable numbers of Italians, French, and German expats also made the voyage, bringing with them the flavors and sensibilities of their native lands. So then how did Malbec gain an almost monolithic prominence among Argentina’s wine exports? Mostly it was nature and money.

Photos by Shelly Marshall Schmidt

Malbec’s Rise to Fame

Argentina’s Mendoza region is perfectly suited to grow the tightbunching, deeply colored clusters of Malbec first made famous in southwest France. Its high elevation and relatively arid climate mean the grapes achieve optimal ripeness (important for mitigating tannins), but also maintain critically important acidity, since the “diurnal shift” (i.e., difference between daytime high temperature and nightly low temperature) is dramatic in Mendoza, allowing the plants to sort of “shut down” sugar production at night. And although Malbec was a favored grape for much of Argentina’s winemaking history, it began to fall out of favor in the 1960s, as grapes such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon gained prominence in the international market.

But Malbec would make a comeback, albeit through an arduous and circuitous route. The 1980s and ‘90s in Argentina were a time of massive economic upheaval and runaway inflation, and like most industries, wine took a beating.

Though many vineyards had decades prior ripped up their Malbec vines for the seemingly more commercially viable Cab, Chard, and Merlot, savvy winemakers were beginning to see that in an international market awash with these preferred varieties, Argentina could set itself apart with a grape that had anchored their industry before. Malbec plantings increased, becoming the most-planted variety by the end of the 1990s. By the early 2000s, high-profile wine critics were lauding these reinvented Malbecs, and assigning “sleeping giant” status to the Argentine wine industry.

And so — the wheels began grinding in a seemingly unstoppable machine that churned out oceans of deeply flavored, opaque purple Malbec. Even through the early 2010s, it seemed like the party would never end. Malbec was a surefire crowd pleaser, and due to exchange rates that remained favorable even after Argentina’s recovery, Americans could avail themselves of these wines for a fraction of what they might pay for similar efforts out of Napa, Bordeaux, or Tuscany.

Nevertheless, as wine professionals from more recent generations begin to take the helm at important restaurants and retailers, there are signs that demand for Malbec — or at least the sheer volume of Malbec that was being imported — has begun to flag. Gen X and millennial sommeliers are actively seeking out lesser-known varieties in the search for new flavor experiences. It would seem to make sense: as globalism puts an array of culinary experiences within easy access, beverage professionals will surely look towards wines, beers, and spirits that pair favorably with these exciting new flavors. Thankfully, Argentina has much more than Malbec to bring to the table. There are two grapes that are just beginning to regain a bit of visibility among Argentine exports.

Tasting Notes: Notes of rose petal, rooibos tea, and wild cherry, and the palate has just a hint of tannin, juicy cherry and cranberry, with a crisp, tart finish. Enjoy this with a slight chill on taco night, or with thinly sliced cold cuts or carpaccio of beef and/or tomatoes.

Hola Criolla Chica

For roughly the first 300 years after Europeans planted the first wine grapes, a grape called Criolla Chica accounted for the bulk of Argentine wine production. Known as Pais in neighboring Chile, and as Mission in California, this thin-skinned, lightly colored, and vigorously producing grape was perfect for the needs of missionaries and farmers who valued yield and durability among their crops. It was also a good choice for distillation, and various brandies across South America still employ it as such. And while it has long since fallen from the list of most widely-planted grapes in Argentina, it nonetheless maintains relevance among a vocal subset of Argentine winemakers. Moreover, it has become a bit of a starlet among younger winegrowers in Chile and California seeking to hew towards the recent trend of lighter-bodied, lower alcohol reds. Criolla Chica is most at home in Argentina’s higher elevations, such as the Valle de Calingasta. It produces wonderfully aromatic, if very lightly colored, reds that can fit many pairing situations where a heavier, oakier red would be clunky and overbearing. The best modern producer to be found in the American market is Cara Sur ($25), but others can be sought out, especially within Argentina itself.

Tasting Notes: Expressive aroma of red fruits, such us red currants, raspberries and strawberries, subtly followed by hints of minerality, forest floor, and floral notes with hints of spice and cocoa. Being lighter in body and higher in acidity than many other red wines, pair with something like bruschetta, roast chicken, or a vegetarian pizza.

Patagonia’s Pinot Noir

Familiar to most anyone reading this article is the hallowed Pinot Noir grape. Responsible for the most expensive red wines and the most expensive Champagnes in the world, this red-berried, highly finicky vine is perhaps the most prized in the winegrowing world. But until recently, Pinot Noir from South America was viewed as a novelty, or at worst a cynical attempt at local growers trying to cash in on the international craze. Far to the contrary, however, Argentina contains some of the best Pinot-growing terroir in the world, especially in the region of Patagonia. With long daylight hours during the growing season, but an all-important temperate climate governed by the colder reaches of both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, Patagonia provides all the elements for crafting Pinots not at all unlike the celebrated efforts from Willamette Valley in Oregon. Lower alcohol and livelier acidity make these ideal wines for the table. But their full, sunny flavors make them sure to please anyone identifying as a fan of Pinot in general. Argentine Pinot Noir is easier to access than one might expect, though you may have to ask your favorite store or restaurant to start stocking it. But even in a smaller market like South Carolina, numerous distributors import Argentine Pinot. Look for producers like Alto Limay and Wapisa and expand your Pinot Noir experience.

While it remains doubtful that Malbec will be unseated as king of Argentine wine anytime soon, there remains a host of other wines offering a lens on this beautiful landscape. Visit your favorite local bottle shop and tell them you want to dig deeper into this fascinating and historic wine region. Salut! ■

James Alford is the Owner/Operator of Cork and Cap, downtown Aiken’s neighborhood bottle shoppe, specializing in wine, craft beer, fine provisions to go, and weekly wine tastings in their garden. 146 Laurens St NW (the Yellow Cottage) / shopcorkandcap.com