Russian Adventure (Chapter 11) - Leaving Russia across the Caucasus Mountains

By Nigel Cooper

3968 miles so far

As I wave fair well to Issa, I join the road to Vladikavkaz. Its condition is still good but not quite as good as the ones through Grozny. After a short while a chap in a Mercedes waves me down and welcomes me to Ingushetia. Ah, that may explain the change in funding. He is very welcoming and friendly, clearly excited by my British number plate. He offers me breakfast but my stomach is still trying to digest the last one so unfortunately I politely decline, explaining that the breakfasts in Chechnya are bigger – OK, not really! What I actually say is that I'm short of time and need to get to the border, as I'm expecting a lengthy delay.

Always constantly on my left are the ever approaching Caucasus Mountains, large, grey and somewhat forbidding, their snowy white peaks just adding to the intimidation. I feel a sense of increasing intensity in my journey, not knowing quite what to expect on the old Georgian military road the other side of the border, not to mention what the border crossing itself may bring.

Caucasus Mountains

As I arrive on the outskirts of Vladikavkaz I meet an army and police checkpoint. It's a full dismount and in to the building jobbie. A lady army officer checks my passport in a separate office and after looking at it from every direction and perspective, I'm given the all clear to proceed. As I ride off, I immediately see a left turn signposted to Vladikavkaz. It turns out to be the old road rather than the bypass, which I would have taken if I'd gone straight on! It leads me right in to town, past a large industrial complex that looks to be in rather poor condition. However, the main street looks pretty good and as it's hot and sunny I pull over in a parking space and take time to look around and have some water. This isn't quite the image of a wild-west border town that I'd anticipated. Shops, people chatting in the street, parked cars, all very normal really. I check the sat nav to see where I should be headed and pull away. The road slowly climbs towards the foot hills of the Caucasus and after a short ride I'm at the border post.

There are lorries, cars and a few bikes, no huge queue, and the buildings all look pretty reasonable. I'm beginning to wonder if the reputation of this area has put so many people off coming that, actually, it could be the least busy and fastest border crossing that I'm likely to make. And, indeed, that proves to be the case; leaving Russia is far less painful than entering and Georgian border entry is quick so not the fearsome experience I was dreading.

Tbilisi from cable car

I follow the road which is breathtaking, fab scenery, snow capped mountain peaks, green lush valleys below, some with rivers running through. In places the snow comes right down the edge of the road, rather like a mini-glacier. Despite the first few miles being on fairly rough chewed gravel roads, the surface gradually improves and as I start to descend towards Tbilisi it feels like a pleasant ride in the country. I'm even stopped by a shepherd taking his sheep and a few cattle for a walk along the road!

Traffic Jam

I spy a rather interesting hotel that looks a bit Bavarian themed and parked outside are 4-5 motorcycles, so really, stopping is compulsory! Inside the bikers are gathered around a table and clearly taking the drink driving issue seriously, as they all have large glasses of frothy German beer, except for one who has a glass of red wine. They welcome me over and one of them speaks pretty good English. I learn that they have come down from Moscow and are here both for a road trip and also to sample the excellent Georgian wine. Apparently, Georgia claims to be the ancient home of wine-making and has some seriously good vintages. They are also headed for Tbilisi and will then be travelling east towards one of the major wine regions. They insist on buying me a drink, which I persuade them must be tea and offer me some of their large food platters, all extremely generous. I listen in on some of their Russian conversation but can understand virtually none. Tea having been drunk I wish them farewell and a safe journey and resume my trip towards Tbilisi.

I reach the centre and then spend about 30 minutes riding around in circles before I realise that my sat nav is directing me down a one way street. I finally stop (should have done that half an hour ago), work out a new route and eventually get to the Hotel City right by the old quarter. It is really rather plush, with a snazzy glass lift in the centre of the stair well. My room is right at the top and I take cases, tank bag and rollpack up via the lift. It will be a relief to have a proper bed after my night in Issa's garage!

It's wash day and as well as the usual "smalls" I remove the armour from my Rukka suit, turn it inside out and wipe the lining down with a damp flannel. It marks the half way point in my trip and the moment from when I will start heading west.

Sport is very much on the agenda while I'm in Tbilisi and even before I left I had identified an Irish sports pub called The Hanger. I locate it not far from my hotel (what a coincidence!) and drop by for a Guinness and to watch the first half of the UEFA Champions League final between Real Madrid and Juventus. So I'm watching a football match between Spanish and Italian teams, played in the Welsh Millenium Stadium from an Irish bar in Georgia – it doesn't get much more nationally diverse than that! Meanwhile, the British and Irish lions are touring New Zealand and I'm hoping to watch one of their opening matches, whilst it's also the Mugello grand prix tomorrow; what a feast!

After leaving the Hanger I head off to find somewhere else for dinner. I stay up much too late as all bars are open long in to the night, but I do try a glass of Georgian wine with my meal. I watch some of the second half of the football that Real Madrid inevitably win.

At last, another rest day. No bike riding at all and the chance for some R'n'R. My day starts with an excellent buffet breakfast in the hotel and then a wander around in the city followed by a cable car up to the old fortress. This gives me stunning views out over the city and of the surrounding area. I even manage an ice cream from a seller tucked away by the side of the path to the top. Eventually I head back down to the Hanger, where I've been told they will put on a recording of the Lions vs. the NZ barbarians, which is excellent. I just have time to watch it before the bar starts to fill up with ex-pat BP workers who are arriving for the GP. They are working on some new oil deal with the Georgians and bits of work conversation bleed through in between the bike chat. I can't imagine a job where I would be regularly abroad for months at a time. Rossi doesn't win and I head back to my hotel – west tomorrow! .