MY KOKODA EXPERIENCE by Emma Foster, SHAPE Australia

THE ABILITY OF THE HUMAN SPIRIT TO CONQUER ADVERSITY

- my Kokoda experience

by Emma Foster

Project Engineer, SHAPE Australia & NAWIC Member

DAY 1 ON THE TRACK

Or, as I like to refer to it, hell. This was categorically my toughest day. It started off with a small and exciting flight to Poppendetta then a four-hour truck ride to Kokoda proper. Upon arrival, we got a glimpse into what the Track’s terrain was really like. The 37-degree heat was beating down on us and we paid our first of many respects to those who had lost their lives whilst facing Japanese soldiers. Before we set off, trekkers were paired with their local porters and it was here I learnt that just three of us had opted to hike sans porter. As the only female to make this choice, I was sticking to my guns and I was going to carry my 15kg for the whole 96km ahead. From my perspective, there was no other way I could experience a glimpse of what our diggers had achieved 80 years prior.

Two hours into Day 1, I was almost fainting and genuinely terrified of slowing the group for the next eight days. Here I was, fit, young, competitive and stubborn and it was then this terror transformed into my first enlightenment on mateship. My day buddy refused to leave my side and slowed with me while everyone else rightly powered ahead. Then, in undeniably aspirational leadership, our trek leader pushed me to the front to lead the way. To this day I struggle to describe what that moment meant to me. Still suffering from the extremely humid heat, the 15kg on my back and the sheer shock of the day, all 40 trekkers and porters cheered me on as I stumbled to get my breath. Two hours later we reached camp and the relief was palpable. The mental challenge was also now in full swing.

In 2017, I had the rare opportunity to take on the then greatest physical challenge of my life – fulfilling No.2 of my two decade old bucket list and walking the Kokoda Track. I knew walking the Kokoda Track would be physical. I knew it was located in a developing country and it would be a great chance to boost my knowledge of Australian history. I wasn’t wrong, but I was blissfully ignorant of the unexpected learnings which would make the experience entirely unforgettable. I am a relatively fit person. I’ve run half marathons, played most sports competitively and regularly hit the gym. So, I held minimal fear with regard to my physical ability. Leading up to the adventure, training became my everything. For the first time in years, I was putting myself first. I had been pushing to build networks at my relatively new job, I battled repeating illnesses, I was finding my own ground after a relationship breakdown and I was building a new side project of a professional networking organisation. All of that noise dissipated though as physical training became my true priority. I thought it was the only thing that could prepare me. The day finally came where I was packing my bursting bag to fly north, where I would meet courageous people who were to become my family for the next ten days. The airport arrival was the moment of truth. Whilst looking at the mountain of boxed necessities to carry along the trail, it seemed apparent to the growing group of red-shirted trekkers that the only things we may have had in common is our construction industry backgrounds and the shared nervous laughter.

EACH DAY ON THE TRACK ENCOMPASSED A POETIC ROUTINE ALONGSIDE THE CONSTANTLY CHANGING TERRAIN.

This enabled us to always be working towards something. The sense of structure really highlighted the need for small goals in any life journey - foreseeable gratification can be a huge motivator. Also, as a small gesture to remind ourselves of not only what our diggers went through but also the mental health struggles of those specifically in our construction industry, we would start with a reading. These reflecting moments of silence were powerful and rang home the real reason why all of us were on the track. Hiking shifts varied, although they often tipped towards 11 hours of true endurance. Putting one foot in front of the other was tough and cumbersome. A necessary aspect of the day was the distraction of wonderfully diverse conversations. “Which is better on a Bunnings Sausage - BBQ or Tomato Sauce?” Or, on an arguably more serious topic, “what are your thoughts on the [then] upcoming marriage equality vote?” I relished these discussions every day and it was these moments that truly signified what being a part of a team is really about. There will always be people you don’t agree with, people you want to stay close to and those you highly respect (as well as the pot-stirrers). Every single one of us was working towards the same goal: getting to Owers’ Corner, ideally as soon and as pain free as possible. At 85% humidity, the terrain was mostly clay sludge with falls, spills and face-plants becoming inevitable. Typically, the uphill days were a favourite and the days we spent going downhill were met with dread. Many of the slopes we tackled would descend dramatically - seeing us using all four limbs to slowly brace ourselves down. Every day also included the chase for a creek swim to shower and get off our feet, no matter how icy cold some water temperatures were. In the evenings and around a fire, we shared stories of our lives, sang songs and befriended our new Papua New Guinea local mates whilst humbly recounting each moment on the track worth cherishing.

THE FINAL MORNING HAD US WAKING IN DISBELIEF

Knowing we had only a 45 minute stroll to the finish line was both exhilarating and awe inspiring. With the Aussie and PNG flags in hand, we marched up as a truly unified team to the holy grail; through those Owers’ Corner arches. Nothing could have possibly wiped the smile off my face crossing that finish line. But once it settled in, my eventual response to finishing the 96km Kokoda Track was raw.

SO. MANY. TEARS.

There is no real explanation as to why. I have always been convinced that my tear ducts have essentially dried up. But here, the floodgates opened and I could do nothing but wail into our trek leader’s shoulder. The emotion of not only the previous eight days but also the impact that this entire journey had had on my new life’s chapter was unbelievably gratifying. Ultimately, the trek expended every last ounce of physical energy I had. It was the mental challenge that truly shook me though and, at the risk of sounding melodramatic, it changed my perspective on determination for life. It also redefined my views on teamwork. To this day, I am still perplexed as to how our diggers not only battled for months against the Japanese soldiers in 1942 but also won the war through a fighting withdrawal and in extremely unforgiving terrain. Kokoda: Simply incomprehensible. Forever grateful.