rome
paris
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Navdeep Khatkar N0440138 Fashion Marketing & Branding
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yor
tokyo
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FASHION MAP
Coco Chanel:
“ everyday ” is a fashion show and the world is
your runway.
FORWARD THINKING.
contents introduction 4
media influences
24
trend forecasting 6
shop safari
26
cultural influences 7
street style
27
globalisation of fashion 8
mood board: location
29
economic influences 9
mood board: clothing
30
ethical retailers 10
style shoot location
31
social influences 12
style shoot clothing
32
case study: clothes to die for 14
magazine editorial
34
key trends of s/s 2015 15
editorial conclusion
41
trend: military 20
the future
42
origins of military 21
interviews
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timeline 22
consent forms
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military in magazines 23
bibliography
47
introduction Fashion is constantly evolving, every season new trends are being introduced and implemented in catwalks all the way through to high street stores. The competition is fierce and all brands want to be the number one fashion destination for their consumers, hence trend forecasting holds paramount importance to the product life cycle. This report will explain and analyse the definition of trend forecasting, highlighting the key influences that drive trend forecasting and the impact it has on fashion marketing. This report will thoroughly investigate the social, cultural, economic and media influences on trend identification and how they can direct the future of trends. Five key fashion trends from this spring summer 2015 will be explored, furthermore focusing on one influential trend from this season. This trend will be meticulously discovered from its origins and how it has developed into an empowering trend for females in today’s society. Additionally, the trend will be supported by diverse tools of primary and secondary research such as exploring the relatable fashion landscape of Nottingham in public and in high street stores. Lastly, this report will provide aesthetic visuals of a fashion editorial and conclude influences from around the world that shape trends and how they thoroughly effect the future of the fashion industry.
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trend forecasting Forecasting a trend is defined by trying to understand the unpredictability of growth or decline in certain patterns. These patterns can be translated in many different meanings, as a result form a variety of theories and actions. Understanding the change in interests with consumers allows a business to operate better in terms of providing products and services that are more likely to be bought and used. Although trend forecasting can be considered a tool that is not certified to be reliable, it is a process which businesses have done successfully with risk and investment, which they have reaped outstanding rewards from. Trends are not just formed naturally, there are few key elements which have a titanic effect on the incline of a trend. Media, economic, social and cultural influences have steered trends in a certain direction, aiding the growth and decline in consumer interests. The fashion industry feeds off developing trends, as retailers and designers are all aiming to provide the most recent trends to consumers. Fashion trend forecasting is an extremely important process to the industry, as it can create reputation and brand awareness. Furthermore targeting trends in this industry can develop a strong brand loyalty, especially if a certain brand provides rapid trend development.
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Trend forecasting is an overall process that focuses on other industries such as automobiles, medicine, food and beverages, literature, and home furnishings. Fashion forecasters are responsible for attracting consumers and helping retail businesses and designers sell their brands. Wikipedia.com, 2014.
” diffusion of innovation curve Bryce Ryan and Neal Gross define the cycle of a trend through the diffusion of innovation curve. Close to the ‘early adopters’ stage is where trends are considered to expand in terms of awareness rapidly. This is where brands implement marketing strategies to project their coverage for this growing trend and desire that consumers have. When trends gain high interest, it influences and affects fashion marketing greatly, as it becomes a huge race for retailers to ensure consumers can see these brands are a part of them.
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Without developing trends, fashion brands have no newly formed material to market or create their own identity. In order to become market leaders, retailers must utilise trends to keep consumers interested and remain distinct. Retailers need to identify trends early in order for them to become successful in terms of product development and response from consumers.
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cultural influences Cultures are empowering groups of particular people or a society who hold similar ideas, customs and social behaviour. Their influences can define the human intellectual achievement of arts and alternate manifestations in their life, for example the 20th century popular culture. For a society or circle to define our personality and characteristics must mean the word culture holds great power in our lives. A culture influences many of things and vary in size; countries naturally form large cultures through traditional ways of life, fashion and living. Popular culture consists of a mass audience, and is the entirety of ideas, perspective and attitudes mainly through mass media. Low and high cultures are more specific, connecting to arts and local street cultures. For hundreds of years, cultures specific to countries have been very dominant. Each culture is a essentially a compilation of beliefs, values and activities. As a result of this, there are many divides around the world. When it comes to fashion, it is paramount for brands and designers to understand and apply cultural knowledge to trends. They must analyse every aspect of a culture with use of news, journals, movies, music and any other sources relatable, this is so they can connect with that culture and understand it far better. As time has developed, mankind has learnt to develop much faster where us humans are changing state of minds much faster than before due to a larger and easier access to information from around the world.
case study BBC’s documentary ‘The Secret Life of Your Clothes’ gives an insight into how the macro trend of globalisation has affected the traditional African culture in Ghana. Goods, products and services have much freer movement as society is developing rapidly, meaning many divided cultures are given the opportunity to explore external fashion trends from around the world. Every year Ghana are shipped 30,000 tonnes of clothing from the Britain that have been donated or recycled. These modern British trends are penetrating and overtaking a country where once African patterned clothing dominated and signified their traditional culture. Akosombo Textiles is the last remaining manufacturer in Ghana that takes in raw cotton and produces traditional Kente cloth. This cloth was produced in many factories that offered over 25,000 jobs, however due to an increased demand in western style clothing, Akosombo Textiles have suffered a 75% fall in orders since 2009. Fashion is disposed so easily in today’s society that one trend can enter the western market but after a few months can find itself being fashioned in another culture or country. With integrating cultures, this case study evidently projects a deeper insight to how globalisation is affecting and merging cultures and trends.
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globalisation of fashion Continuing from the documentary, Ghanaian funerals have been a paramount part of their culture, being one of the biggest social events of their time. Funerals have been exploited as an opportunity for groups to get together as a community and its highly common for everyone to purchase a new outfit for this event. Once upon a time, funerals in Ghana heavily consisted of traditional Kente print clothing but as globalisation has developed, attendees prefer to buy recycled clothing from bales as all they need to do is iron them for the event. As opposed to traditional Ghanaian clothes, material needed to be purchased and made to measure which ultimately costs a lot more. Popular culture writer, Irene Odotei believes that Ghana’s culture is being undermined as western countries like Britain are continuously utilising Ghana as a ‘dumping ground’. Odotei also stated that “western dress to funerals is globalisation – people are watching a lot of television and not being brought up to traditional values, we are losing ground because urbanisation too has come in, a lot of them have come from villages where they have had traditional influences but as they’ve come to the city they’ve lost track.” There is clear evidence that opposing cultures are interconnecting due to disposable fashion and globalisation. Although there are concerns that some fashion cultures are evaporating, there is a platform where western fashion is becoming more accessible and inherited due to its convenience, time efficiency and low costs.
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What globalisation has done is that you’re looking outside yourself you’re looking outside your country you’re looking at how other people are behaving where the rest of the world is going and get benefit from that yourself, and benefit others. Globalisation is a pooling of resources and see which country has a strength where. J A Khan- Director Marketing & Sales of Becksinco
” fulfilment curve The fulfilment curve displays the connection between the more money spent on fashion and the negative affect it can have on consumer happiness. Purchasing something allows consumers to feel fulfilled, however repetitive purchases can become routine, resulting in consumers losing interest. This contributes to why fashion trends are very disposable, as fulfilment is not as sustaining as it once was when there was less market saturation for trend development. Fig 2
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economic influences The environment everybody operates in has taken a noticeable amount of damage as a result of product manufacturing processes, high usage of raw materials and excessive wastage. Every day consumers subconsciously contribute to the rising issues of global warming, without realising there are many opportunities to reuse, recycle and restore the damage done. As information develops and we are understanding better how much the global environment condition requires attention, more people are wanting to become more environmentally friendly. As consumers are becoming self-conscious about their consumption, brands are understanding that they must operate in specific ways to cater for the needs of the environment and their customers. New processes are undergone to apply trends to avoid excess wastage, meaning the economic impact on trend application is becoming high. Essentially, conscious consumers are dictating and sculpting how brands are operating.
case study BBC documentary ‘The Secret Life of Your Clothes’ focuses on the journey of recycled British clothes. Every year, a staggering 30,000 tonnes of British clothes are being shipped to Ghana. Clothes are being manufactured in countries like Bangladesh, then shipped to the UK and we buy them as consumers, after a few years we give them to charity and then they end up in a bale in Africa. Fig 3
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Charity shops in the UK only sell a small fraction of donated clothes, the rest of it goes to recycling businesses. The recycling of garments means there is less waste and people around the world can benefit in many ways. Fabrics and materials can be reused to be worn again, to make new clothes or packaging and can be recycled completely into new fibres. As a result, recycling and reusing clothes reduces the amount of waste and creates business opportunities in Ghana consequently strengthening the economic stability and growth. With Ghanaian market traders investing up to ÂŁ40 on a single clothing bale, reusable clothing is creating a financial cycle for wholesalers.
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ethical retailers Every year, millions of consumers find clothes that they don’t use much often or at all. Then they may feel it’s necessary to dispose of these clothes as they have no room or use for them. With several thousand tonnes of fabric being neglected, wastage levels have been at peak levels. Conscious consumer networks are now seeking alternate opportunities for clothing which limit the effect on their environment which has resulted in brands doing the same thing.
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In Ethical Consumer's latest product guide to clothing, which ranks 25 high street clothing brands on how ethical their practices are, M&S came top of the table. Zara and H&M come second and third respectively. Moore, B; The Guardian. 2014.
” Two words which potentially can stop the global environment damage – reusable fashion. High street retail giant H&M have interlocked their moral values with their consumers, tackling the environmental issues the earth is facing. Recycled polyester is often made of PET bottles and in 2014, H&M utilised the equivalent of 40 million plastic bottles which shows their high contribution to reusable fashion and recycling. Ethical manufacturing processes are steering conscious consumers towards these brands as they are seeking for opportunities to buy products without affecting the environment in a negative way.
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We were the first fashion company to launch a global garment collection initiative. Today, you can hand in any clothes you no longer want. That way, we can reduce waste and give old products a new life. Eventually, we’ll close the loop on textiles so nothing ever goes to waste. about.HM.co.uk, 2015.
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social influences Social influences shape conscious consumption, as opinions and views are creating a constant pressure on consumers to purchase their products ethically. In today’s society, brands are eternally seeking the most viable and ethical way to apply a trend to their brand. It is not just about the product they shelve, but also about considering each manufacturing process the product goes through. This is to ensure they are not forming a negative brand image as a result of supporting bad labour.
Do consumers look at their clothing labels to see where clothes are being manufactured? Do consumers think about the brand’s ethical values before purchasing goods? Fig 7
WHO MADE YOUR CLOTHES? Social influence has opened up a new door of opportunity for brands to apply trends in a positive way without treading on the toes of consumers whilst catering for their ethical beliefs. The current interest in conscious consumption affects application of trends as buyers need to be aware of where they source their manufacturing and materials from. Working conditions are an important factor for retailers to ensure operation is smooth and workers are not being exploited. Conscious consumers have formed networks to enforce change against an underlying problem that has been around for many years such as low paid labour and sweat shop environments. Fashion haul enthusiasts are becoming increasingly popular on social platforms. As these platforms grow, demands for fashion become increasingly intense. Ethical clashes on cheap manufacture have been the front and foremost issue of the garment industry around the world, especially for many western brands. A documentary filmed and provided by the BBC called ‘Clothes To Die For’, explored the unethical and unsafe working conditions of the Rana Plaza, a garment factory in Bangladesh.
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case study Rana Plaza manufactured clothing for western retail brands such as: Primark, Bonmarché, Matalan, Mango and Monsoon Accessorize. Immoral and exhausting working conditions saw the exploitation of 5000 employees working excessive hours in return of extremely unfair wages. A former Rana Plaza worker in the documentary stated, “we finish at midnight and get to bed 2am and wake up at 5am”, another former worker stated “if we worked until midnight they gave us a night payment of 25p”. These workers were given targets of 100 shirts or trousers per hour, but the longer they worked there the more efficient they became and this led to supervisors increasing targets to 250 per hour. As the competition was fierce as many factories were being built every week, orders had to be on time and on budget. Rana Plaza made a boom in the business by growing 20% per year. Katy Cavanagh, narrator for the documentary stated “in Bangladesh, business and politics have merged and corrupted the garment industry” and as business was expanding, 3 floors and generators were added to the Rana Plaza without planning permission. In April 2013, structural failure led to a catastrophe in which the Rana Plaza building collapsed after titanic cracks appeared in the pillars and walls. This deadly accident claimed the lives of over 1100 workers. Fig 8
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International brands, they come to our country to get cheap labour but now their lives also became cheap. Taslima Akhter, Bangladeshi Photographer.
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Western retailers and consumers were given a wakeup call, especially Primark where they promised to monitor and evaluate the conditions of factories they sourced their clothing manufacturing from. As consumers are exposed to media coverage to working conditions around the world, they are becoming far more conscious about the type of brands they are contributing to. Consumers want to ensure they are not supporting the unethical and unjust production of products.
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key trends: catwalks spring summer 2015
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trend: 1 Fig 8a
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This spring summer, culottes have been celebrated as the garment that represents female empowerment through its flattering androgynous yet feminine shape. Every spring, skirts and shorts have been dominating the catwalks but this year culottes have made a fierce return since last being popular in the 80’s. Designers have channelled chic yet edgy looks for this garment by pairing them with heels and structured jackets, which have created power dressing for females. Various fabrics have been incorporated by designers into this seasons culottes as Stella McCartney has focused them on smart office wear, however Valentino created a more casual look with printed culottes. Armani and Calvin Klein have utilised breathable and neutral fabrics that demonstrate a chic and feminine presence whereas Versace have presented a striking and playful red for their catwalk. Chanel’s tartan two piece look and Louis Vuitton’s velvet demonstrates just how versatile and practical culottes are with fabrics. Designers are continuously competing to become the leader in providing the most fashion forward approach to culottes, especially by incorporating their brand personality to create statements on the catwalk for this spring summer.
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trend: 2 Fig 16
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As Coco Chanel’s trip to the French Rivera inspired her to showcase the first nautical look in 1917, stripes have been a major influence for designers since. A summer staple which has proven to be a success year after year, the trend has become flattering and universal for babies, children to young and mature females. Stripes are seen every spring continuously on the catwalk, especially this spring summer 2015 as designers have projected their creativity through various styles and fabrics. Stripes are renown for traditionally being navy and white, over the recent years we have seen designers infuse various colours and materials to transform the stripe into contemporary and striking pieces. No longer do we see the plain parallel stripes confined to casual wear such as cotton t shirts; we now see them being demonstrated on catwalks with a bolder and artistic approach. Designers have demonstrated their ability to be creative and free on their catwalks by pairing striped garments with heels, trainers and slippers. Ultimately, stripes have proven to be a universal trend that can be incorporated into many garments such as dresses, trousers, shorts and tops. This spring summer 2015, the likes of Emporio Armani and Peter Som have had the most traditional take on vertical stripes, whereas DKNY have incorporated colourful thin and thick stripes into their designs, which have projected fresh and bold interpretations. However, a unique and innovative take on stripes has been demonstrated by designer Tracy Reiss, as she has combined lace and sheer fabrics to form a ‘stripe’ appearance. This year’s stripe trend has been diversified due to designers aiming to exhibit their creative flair within their collections.
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trend: 3 Fig 25
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The desire for denim has been smeared across catwalks this spring summer, especially for men. Designers have broken the shackles for denim being confined to jeans and now have infused denim into garments such as coats, jackets, shirts and blazers. Denim is no longer seen as a casual necessity, it’s now seen as an iconic fabric for many garments and individual pieces. The fabric has been honoured by designers to create an influential look by utilising it in strong male pieces, such as the blazer as seen in Dior and Greg Lauren’s work. Dior’s denim collection proved to transform the formality of denim, changing the blazer from what once was known as a man's smart work uniform to now an edgy fashionable piece. Another captivating creation by Greg Lauren showed a clear infusion of materials, a smart pinstripe blazer with denim patchwork, just enough to give it that extra trendy look. Also in this spring summer 2015 catwalk, E Tautz and Burberry showcased a fascinating creation, the denim mac coat. Burberry’s creation included clean traditional denim stitching as opposed to Fendi who made the denim mac coat into a play on denim tones. Intertwining the idea of a mac coat with denim was a winner on the catwalk, an innovative and highly fashion forward creation which showed that these designers really understood and delved into the concept of spring summer denim.
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trend: 4 Fig 33
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The variation of vivid colours and print sizes has made this season extremely divergent when it comes to bold and bright flowers. Designers and high street brands are desperate to flourish wardrobes with petal pieces, ensuring the blossoming trend has been exploited at every opportunity. Although the floral pattern has been a trend we have on the cat walk during many seasons, designers have aimed to redevelop the passion and position floral patterns have through strong shapes, out bursting colours and distinctive patterns. Couture catwalks were dominantly all about going back to nature: wild blooms were unfolded over and beneath the coloured layers of Celine; Michael Kors endeavoured their passion for pink petals through floral pieces and Chanel’s floral-smothered designs were emblazoned over the sleeves and hems of their artwork. Naeem Khan brought the depth of blooming patterns to life with intricate textures over sheered layers, producing extremely aesthetic three dimensional dresses. Designers delved into this botanic brilliance, with diverse usage of colours and silhouettes. Saint Laurent & Dolce & Gabbana unfolded their own interpretation of this summer and spring trend by infusing it with more provocative pieces showing the versatility and potential of how far the bold blossoms can stretch. Spring florals were all over the cat walk to produce some of this year’s most fantastic creations.
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trend 5: military Fig 43
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This season the military trend has been channelled by designers in a more provocative yet feminine way than ever. Skirts and above the knee length dresses have allowed the trend to provide female clothing with a sexy and trendy look. Ralph Lauren fashioned the military trend with hats, giving their show a summery casual feel alongside flowy materials, however Gucci gave their collection a more sharp and structured look with a classic trench that emits power dressing for females. Marc Jacobs has utilised the military trend in an edgy way, short skirts, ž baggy trousers and long sleeve jackets, they have diversified the trend with various tones of khaki whilst providing confidence and a sense of empowerment to a woman in equal measure. Chanel utilised luxurious fabrics through their military collection this spring summer, using suede and loose fabrics, Gucci utilised thick and weighted fabric, Marc Jacobs provided a fabric with sheen and Ralph Lauren offered the trend with dusty coloured cotton. The military trend has set the strongest boundary in terms of how diverse it can be in terms of materials and garments compared to previous trends mentioned. Although the military trend featured a lot of earthy tones, it definitely had a unique style that complimented the female figure using structured clothing, nipped waists and button detailing. This trend was chosen due to its strong origins as well as its journey from the war to today’s catwalks and high street retailers.
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origins of military Fig 50
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1945
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1911
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1935
1960
In 1848, the khaki colour was created for the British Army while in Peshawar, India. In the late 19th century, Britain saw the colour khaki take its position through the colonization of India. The British accepted the colour for their own forces as the colour has natural camouflage abilities. British troops named themselves as ‘The Khakis’ due to a new inherited colour for their uniforms which was embraced significantly. As the colour Khaki was and still is today a native uniform colour for the Indian police and army, it has become a huge symbolic colour for the country. Representing soil or dust from the Persian word ‘Khak’, this colour has been utilised through uniforms for pilot bomber jackets, cadet trousers, jumpsuits and many more. The colour was used for soldier uniforms of all ranks and it didn’t just grow popular in the war, but post war saw the rise in the khaki military uniform as a fashion trend for females.
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timeline Fig 55
1950
Military inspired clothing was introduced very soon after the war ended in the fifties. Inspiration was taken from male uniforms such as jumpsuits and wide shoulders; dresses were given adaptations such as cinched waists to enhance the feminine shape.
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1960
In the sixties, fashion began developing and this was when military clothing became futuristic. Designers created military inspired garments and incorporated them into women’s uniform that included two piece sets, buttons and lapel collars. This developed into everyday wear which highlighted the ‘glamourous’ woman.
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1970
Female empowerment was portrayed through military clothing as female political leaders were fashioning the trend on magazine fronts in the seventies. As equality for both men and women was a huge topic, androgynous and unisex clothing became a sensation for both genders, especially women.
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1980
As grunge fashion took over the eighties the jumpsuit made a comeback, but alterations to the jumpsuit gave it a finer and elegant look which is what women wanted. Women’s outerwear consisted of double breasted jackets inspired very clearly from military uniform which were paired with matching plain skirts.
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1990
In the nineties, the military trend picked up fast. Women were fashioning more military garments in their day and evening wear due to the natural earthy tones the trend consisted of. Burberry’s trench coat became a fashion statement in its own right. Sophisticated and elegant looks were key and the military trend gave women that ultimate chic and power look.
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military in magazines Fig 60
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Jan 1962 Fig 64
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May 2010
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May 1987
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Oct 2010
Nov 2014
May 1989
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Sep 1989
Aug 2014 Fig 71
Feb 2015
Apr 2015
Since 1962, magazines have been fashioning the military trend through the use of female models. It has transitioned into a cult classic movement for female fashion. From a demure look, military has now advanced into an urbanised and feminine trend. Magazines such as GQ, Vogue and Elle have channelled the military trend for many years and pretty much nearly every season. These influential magazines have used iconic celebrities to showcase the military trend in a provocative yet feminine way. Thigh high splits, low neck lines and tight clinched waists all demonstrate the ‘sexy’ appeal of wearing the military trend. Profound classic military garments have been developed into high class fashion for these well-established magazines, developing this trend from a dark and rustic background to a modernised interpretation with connotations of female empowerment. This is supported by the front cover model poses, reflecting strong and stern postures and direct eye contact with the camera. 23
media influences Fig 73
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singers
Rihanna Fig 78
Jennifer Lopez Fig 79
Beyonce Fig 80
Madonna Fig 81
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models
Katy Perry
Cara Delevingne
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Gisele Bundchen Fig 84
Naomi Campbell Fig 85
Kim Kardashian Fig 86
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actresses
Jourdan Dunn
Scarlett Johansson
Jennifer Lawrence
Cameron Diaz
Jessica Alba
Gwyneth Paltrow
There are many media influences that are driving the military trend, especially celebrities. Singers, models and actresses are making a huge impact on how the military trend is being fashioned and how females can be inspired by it. Influential celebrities such as BeyoncĂŠ, Kim Kardashian and Cara Delevingne are icons in the world of fashion and they carry a huge amount of media coverage alongside a mass network of followers. When an iconic personality fashions a certain trend or garment, it can have an immediate impact on what high street retailers offer and what consumers want. Celebrities are setting the trends quicker than most catwalk designers as they are followed closely through social media platforms and magazines. As a result of this heavy influence, high street retailers are also following the fashionable looks of celebrities and translating them into their own fashion interpretations. 24
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Fig 86b. Percival J, 2015. Nottingham City Centre, 12 Shop Safari Primary Research Images.
shop safari Primary research was conducted via a shop safari in Nottingham City Centre, this concluded that the majority of high street fashion stores are stocking the military trend this spring summer 2015. Although Zara, Urban Outfitters and Warehouse commonly stocked the military trend, it was evident from the shop safari that Topshop stocked the most military inspired garments. Topshop is notoriously known for its distinctive identity as a high street brand, a leader in identifying trends instantly from the catwalks – it has continuously been the retailer that sets trends for consumers before competitors. So why have Topshop adopted the military trend for their consumers from catwalks? The word ‘military’ itself represents rustic, hard and masculine connotations, however over the past decades it has been delivered as a power trend for females. Fashion Instructor Paula Taylor particulates that military is "functional enough that a working woman can wear it but also be hip" – not only does this fit into Topshop’s target market, it is also a multi-functional trend that holds versatility, which allows a female to stay fashionable yet functional in a working and casual environment.
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Many fashion designers have taken the liberty to incorporate military inspired design elements into garments with more feminine silhouettes. Other designers have taken the original military style lines and translated these garments to show more feminine flare.
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Melissa Manuel, Fashion & Retail Management Instructor at The Art Institute of Atlanta.
Observations in Topshop, Zara, Urban Outfitters and Warehouse showcased that structured shirts with button up detail and large chest pockets were the most popular garment available. Uniform features such as large pockets were being applied to modern day wear, such as skirts and cropped jackets. Topshop incorporated gold zips which also provided the shirts with a rustic yet urban finish. The colour which was heavily utilised throughout the military trend was a dark green khaki – imitating the origins of military uniform in the war. Another garment which proved to be heavily military inspired was the jumpsuit. Zara adapted this garment for their consumer in a breathable crepe fabric, which had limited military detailing, giving it a feminine finish. However, Topshop’s jumpsuit was made with 100% Lyocell, this gave the garment a heavy duty appearance, especially with the large pockets, drawstring waist and button up collar. From this analysis it was evident that high street brands were adapting the military trend in their own unique way to fit in with their brand personality and suitable for their target consumers. Retailers are penetrating this trend at full force whilst applying their own adaptations, catering for a large demographic of fashion interests, which will aid and support the growth and awareness of the military trend in Nottingham.
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street style Street style research was conducted through Nottingham City Centre to see how present the khaki military trend was with the public. The trend was most popularly picked up by a younger demographic, mainly students, aged 20-25. It was evident that the norms of military clothing had been incorporated into high street brands and they offered fitted jumpsuits, bombers and flowy trench coats.
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“I’ve seen a lot of people in khaki jumpsuits this season and they are so comfortable to wear for the summer.”
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Tamzin Beard, Interviewee. 2015.
One respondent had customised his own bomber jacket to make it more personal to his character. All of the military inspired garments had diverse modern applications such as being paired with heels, skinny jeans and sneakers. The overall khaki military look has been inherited within the streets of Nottingham with a more casual yet fashion forward approach. Conducting a street style analysis was an important process that was undergone to identify how much the khaki military trend was being utilised. This was to gain understanding how consumers are portraying the trend, where their influence came from and what high street retailers were being fashioned.
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“I am a huge fan of Kim Kardashian who wears khaki a lot and she is such a fashion icon!”
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D Kaur, Interviewee. 2015.
Two interviewees found strong influence from reality star Kim Kardashian and famous actor Tom Cruise from the classic Top Gun movie. Evidently this trend has strong positioning and the interviewees showed a keen interest in the visual aspect of this trend, resulting in great potential for the military trend to remain strong in Nottingham City Centre. As Nottingham has a high demographic of students, this trend has potential to be fashioned by many people especially as high street retailers are stocking it significantly.
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Fig 95
mood board inspiration: style shoot location
Khatkar, N. 2015. Mood Board Created via Pinterest.com Images.
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Fig 96
mood board inspiration: style shoot clothing
Khatkar, N. 2015. Mood Board Created via Pinterest.com Images.
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style shoot plan: location The most suitable and relevant location from mood board influences was Wollaton Park in Nottingham. The reason behind this chosen location was that the park’s main attraction was the Nottingham Natural History Museum, once an English country house also known as Wollaton Hall. Being built in 1588, it had an old, rustic and vintage feel to it, which would allow the style shoot to capture a time period in the past. The feel of the building also reflects the origins of the military trend. As Wollaton Hall’s design was inspired by renaissance architecture, this aided in creating an elegant and historic atmosphere for the style shoot. The landscape, interior and exterior of the building would complement the military outfit colours as well as give the models a striking and bold characteristic against the well preserved yet historic building. After World War I, many English country houses were effected which led to a great amount of them being destroyed and Wollaton Hall represents one of the most notable buildings in England that survived.
Fig 97. Khatkar, N. 2015. Wollaton Park, Nottingham. 10 Images for Primary Research. 31
style shoot plan: clothing Fig 98
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Executing the style shoot required high levels of analysis and consideration, as there was an important message which needed to be portrayed through the photography, outfits and model’s facial expressions. The outfits needed to translate war related clothing into a modernised version of fashion, emitting the same soldier-like feeling and attitude that would have been present in the war many decades ago. However it was more so about the female empowerment behind the soldier characteristics, therefore careful detail and attention was given to the type of clothing used and how it would complement the strength and fierceness to the lady behind the camera lens. Tight fitted trousers accentuating a women’s silhouette; clean cut square shirts providing a strong visual posture to the shoulders; a classic military style double breasted trench coat cinched at the waist and a military style cap depicting the uniform normalities of a combatant. A combination of these key pieces would create a strong atmosphere for the style shoot, furthermore resulting in an editorial which depicts the solid, powerful and eternal strength of a woman.
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magazine editorial
Images used for editorial have been edited and shot by by Khatkar, N. (2015). 34
marching military SPRING SUMMER 2015
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the jumpsuit The military trend has set the benchmark for this seasons jumpsuits. A straight edged one piece that’s easy to wear and flattering, once paired with your hot pick heels will make you feel like you’re a force to be reckoned with.
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structured shirts & pocket pants This season’s military shirts are a must have, structured pocket shirts with buttoned up collars emit a chic and sophisticated look. Paired with skinny trousers will present you trendy women as iconic street soldiers.
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timeless trench Fierce and fabulous, the trench coat is bound to make you feel like a leader this season. Earthy tones compliment all skin tones, providing an elegant and smart addition to your look, you just cannot go wrong. A tailored trench is all you need in your wardrobe to exemplify your style. 39
dress to impress Figure enhancing and beautiful, military dresses this season are paramount pieces that will give you the ultimate feminine and glamourous look. The dress speaks for itself, simple and sharp, making it the perfect garment for the office, shopping and dinners.
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editorial conclusion Fashion editorials are key tools used in the magazine industry to communicate, inspire and influence consumers. Fashion marketing is heavily influenced by newly developed trends therefore it is important to project understanding of the trend through editorials. The aim of this editorial was to create a powerful female image by utilising strong key military pieces. These specific outfits were chosen to portray and depict the origins of military as well as the empowered, fashion conscious female. Earthy tones and structured garments enhanced the model postures as well as apply an authoritative feel to the images. The style shoot location contributed strongly to the editorial for its dark and historical settings which engaged the models into a military related atmosphere. The expressions of the models were aimed to project an empowering and confident personality whilst having a feminine and power dressing appearance. Pale skin tones allowed the make up to stand out and complement the earthy tones and seriousness the military trend has. Stern looks directly into the camera allowed the images to build a connection and engagement with the female consumer as well as depict the fearless and strong posture of a woman.
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the future The creation of trends play a vital part in the life cycle of a fashion trend, from designers to high street retailers to consumers, trends keep fashion evolving. Not only does trend forecasting keep fashion evolving, it allows consumers to stay interested and engage with brands constantly. Consumer behaviour is impacted by evolving trends as they naturally are enticed by influences such as cultural, social, economic and media. The military trend has a compilation of strong factors such as origin, emotions and style that have driven it to form a powerful life cycle year after year and sometimes consecutively throughout seasons. The military trend has been a huge success through social media and celebrities. It was evident from primary research that some interviewees found great inspiration from high profile bloggers and influential female celebrities such as Kim Kardashian. This social media and celebrity exposure has led the military trend to a platform which is accessible by a wide network of followers. Through shop safari and street style research, there was clear indication that the military khaki trend had a profound presence in stores and within the public. The trend had been a success through the streets of Nottingham and has been absorbed well by a younger demographic, especially students. The military trend had been fashioned by both male and females, demonstrating that it is a highly powerful unisex trend. This may be due to the origins of military clothing and the transformation it has had over the last 4 decades. Over the coming years, more mass retailers will develop sustainable and ethical clothing collections due to the increasing concern and demand in this. As this concern is growing, consumers are becoming more aware of the negative impact non ethical manufacturing has on globalisation of fashion. H&M and Zara already offer exclusive organic clothing for those consumers who support these causes, these mass retailers are and will inspire more brands to change their approach to the way they manufacture and source their clothes. Consumer behaviour has a huge impact and influence on the way retailers develop and source trends, therefore it is important for retailers to cater for consumer needs in order to develop stronger brand loyalty. The military trend in Nottingham will continue to grow and be fashioned by the public as the city has mass retailers such as Topshop, Zara, River Island and Warehouse that have adapted the trend to their brand personality. With complements of the young demographic in Nottingham, this trend has the potential to furthermore develop into a powerful benchmark for the fashion conscious consumer. Trends are defining our future and interests as consumers which will forever drive brands to constantly cater and offer new trends.
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INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPTS INTERVIEW 1 Tamzin Beard, 2015. Student: Interview with Anna Robbins, Shakespeare Street, Nottingham. 14th April 2015. Anna: Do you feel like your outfit is inspired by military clothing? Interviewee: Yes it looks very military because of the pockets and collar. Anna: Where is your outfit influenced from? I’ve seen a lot of people in khaki jumpsuits this season and they are so comfortable to wear for the summer. So probably just the general trend. Anna: What look were you going for today with today’s outfit? Interviewee: Its quite a workman/grungy look but paired with sandals and a bag it becomes a little urban chic Anna: Where do you look for style inspiration? Interviewee: I like to look a Jazzabelle’s diary fashion blog and also celebrities online or in magazines. INTERVIEW 2 D Kaur, 2015, Sales Assistant: Interview with Navdeep Khatkar, Nottingham City Centre, 14th April 2015. Navdeep: Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit? Interviewee: Definitely, the shirt design is very military influenced and the shorts paired with a long mac coat represent the military trend this season. Navdeep: Where is your outfit influenced? Interviewee: I am a huge fan of Kim Kardashian who wears khaki a lot and she is such a fashion icon! Navdeep: What look were you going for today with today’s outfit? Interviewee: I like to look fashionable, this outfit gives me confidence as I can wear it anywhere and everywhere. Navdeep: Where do you look for style inspiration? Interviewee: I follow YouTube bloggers such as Carli Bybel and Shirley’s Wardrobe but I also buy fashion magazines weekly such as Vogue. I keep up with fashion trends as I work in fashion. INTERVIEW 3 Dan Smith, 2015, Student: Interview with Jagdeepak Chatha, Nottingham City Centre, 14th April 2015 Jagdeepak: Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit? Interviewee: Yes definitely. I love all the badged clothing and that’s how I managed to find my own badges and stitch them onto this jacket to give it that rough military feel. Jagdeepak: Where is your outfit influence from? Interviewee: Tommy cruise in Top Gun and I see loads of guys wearing them this season, they seem to be very popular. I couldn’t find one quite like the one I imagined so I made my own to have it look similar to the Top Gun jacket. 43
Jagdeepak: What look were you going for today with today’s outfit? Interviewee: I wanted to go for a look that’s casual but has a bit of character to it, and I get that feeling when I wear this military style bomber. Jagdeepak: Where do you look for style inspiration? Interviewee: Celebrities and movies have had a heavy influence on my fashion as you can tell, so if I see an actor with good charisma and dressed well then I instantly want to dress like them. INTERVIEW 4 Mahika Bhalla, 2015. Student: Interview with Jemma Ison, Listergate, Nottingham. 14th April 2015. Jemma: Do you feel like military clothing inspires your outfit? Interviewee: Yes my shirt part and boots, the embroidery badges on the upper sleeve and chest pockets give my shirt a very military feel...my skirt however, not so much. Jemma: Where is your outfit influenced? Interviewee: I love the look of an oversized shirt, I think it can go with anything! I like to wear it with everything, even my tartan skirt! Jemma: What look were you going for today with today’s outfit? Interviewee: I wanted to go for a different look but still feel fashionable, I feel wearing my ray bans and military boots give me an edgy look. Jemma: Where do you look for style inspiration? Interviewee: Well I work for New Look as well as a volunteer in a charity shop once a week, the two jobs definitely inspire my wardrobe as I feel I can keep up with current trends but tailor them with some unique vintage pieces. INTERVIEW 5 Felicity Saunders, 2015. Retail Supervisor: Interview with Jo Percival, Topshop Nottingham, 17th April 2015. Jo: Have you seen a growing demand with your consumers for military inspired clothing? Interviewee: Yeah it’s quite popular with our female customers especially students. People are wearing it in an urban way as most of the military we sell are not traditional but with a twist.” Jo: Do you feel like your store has adapted the Military trend well? Interviewee: Yes because most of our pieces we have in store are different and are wearable in the day and night, which benefits our customers. It’s more practical for working women to wear but also fashionable.” Jo: What do you feel about the future of this trend? Interviewee: Khaki is a very spring orientated colour and has been around for many seasons, but this year I think the heavy influence military garments, such as the jacket or jumpsuit, changing it from previous seasons. I feel like this trend will stay around for a while because it’s been adapted in a fresh, feminine way.”
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CONSENT FORMS FOR STREET STYLE IMAGES AND INTERVIEW RECORDINGS.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY CASE STUDIES BBC – Clothes To Die For (20, September, 2014) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/ b04bwxnd [Accessed on 22/05/2015] BBC – Living With Globalisation (15, January, 2009) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00h27mr [Accessed on 22/05/2015] BBC – The Secret Life Of Your Clothes (9, September, 2009) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b04b75rd [Accessed on 22/05/2015]
BOOKS Eundeok, K. et al. (2011) Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting (Understanding Fashion) ;London & New York; Berg. Raymond, M. (2010) The Trend forecasters Handbook; UK: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Perna, R. (1987) Fashion forecasting: a mystery or a method? New York: Fairchild publications Polhemus, Ted. (1994) Streetstyle: From Sidewalk to Catwalk, Thames & Hudson, London. Shaw, D. and Koumbis, D. (2013) Fashion Buying: From Trend Forecasting to Shop Floor, Bloomsbury. 47
WEBSITES Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.margaritabenitez.com/trends/lectures/trend_ch01.pdf [Accessed 8 May 2015]. Author, U. (2010). INTO THE FASHION: Cultural Influences On Trend Forecasting. [online] Intothefashion.com. Available at: http://www.intothefashion.com/2010/01/cultural-influences-on-trend.html [Accessed 9 May 2015]. BBC News, (2015). Rana Plaza factory collapse survivors struggle one year on - BBC News. [online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-27107860 [Accessed 16 May 2015]. BusinessDictionary.com, (2015). What is trend line forecasting? definition and meaning. [online] Available at: http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/trend-line-forecasting.html [Accessed 7 May 2015]. Contentinjection.com, (2015). Celebrities Wearing Khakis. [online] Available at: http://contentinjection.com/ celebrities-wearing-khakis/ [Accessed 29 May 2015]. Debate.org, (2015). Influence of fashion on culture ?. [online] Available at: http://www.debate.org/opinions/ does-fashion-influence-culture [Accessed 7 May 2015]. Engineering, T. (2015). Influence of culture and society on attitudes and behaviors | Thayer School of Engineering at Dartmouth. [online] Engineering.dartmouth.edu. Available at: http://engineering.dartmouth. edu/research/influence-of-culture-and-society-on-attitudes-and-behaviors/ [Accessed 13 May 2015]. English, V. (2015). Top 20 trends for Spring/Summer 2015. [online] Vogue English. Available at: http:// en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-inspiration/diaporama/fwpe2015-top-20-trends-for-spring-summer-2015/15479 [Accessed 25 May 2015]. Fashion Editorials, (2015). Homepage - Fashion Editorials. [online] Available at: http://fashioneditorials.com/ [Accessed 29 May 2015]. M, A. (2013). How does Culture Influence Fashion? | Beauty and Personal Grooming. [online] Beautyandgroomingtips.com. Available at: http://www.beautyandgroomingtips.com/2013/04/how-doesculture-influence-fashion.html [Accessed 9 May 2015]. Marie Claire, (2007). Put It In Neutral: The Khaki Trend. [online] Available at: http://www.marieclaire.com/ fashion/advice/g240/neutral-fashion-khaki/ [Accessed 26 May 2015]. Small Business - Chron.com, (2015). What Is Trend Forecasting?. [online] Available at: http://smallbusiness. chron.com/trend-forecasting-61347.html [Accessed 5 May 2015]. The Fashionography, (2015). High fashion editorials. High fashion news | The Fashionography. [online] Available at: http://thefashionography.com/editorials/ [Accessed 1 Jun. 2015]. Vogue UK, (2015). How The World Has Changed Since Rana Plaza. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue. co.uk/news/2014/04/01/bangladesh-rana-plaza-anniversary-fashion-revolution-day [Accessed 19 May 2015]. Wikipedia, (2015). Globalization. [online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Globalization [Accessed 14 May 2015]. Wikipedia, (2015). Khaki. [online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khaki [Accessed 19 May 2015]. Wikipedia, (2015). Social influence. [online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_influence [Accessed 11 May 2015]. 48
CITATIONS “Trend forecasting is an overall process that focuses on other industries such as automobiles, medicine, food and beverages, literature, and home furnishings. Fashion forecasters are responsible for attracting consumers and helping retail businesses and designers sell their brands.” Wikipedia.com (2014) [Online] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_forecasting [Accessed on 21/05/2015] “Western dress to funerals is globalisation – people are watching a lot of television and not being brought up to traditional values, we are losing ground because urbanisation too has come in, a lot of them have come from villages where they have had traditional influences but as they’ve come to the city they’ve lost track.” Odotei, I. BBC – The Secret Life Of Your Clothes (9, September, 2009) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc. co.uk/programmes/b04b75rd [Accessed on 22/05/2015] “What globalisation has done is that you’re looking outside yourself you’re looking outside your country you’re looking at how other people are behaving where the rest of the world is going and get benefit from that yourself, and benefit others. Globalisation is a pooling of resources and see which country has a strength where.” Khan, J A. BBC – Living With Globalisation (15, January, 2009) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/ programmes/b00h27mr [Accessed on 25/05/2015] “In Ethical Consumer's latest product guide to clothing, which ranks 25 high street clothing brands on how ethical their practices are, M&S came top of the table. Zara and H&M come second and third respectively.” Moore B. [2014] How ethical are high street clothes? [Online] Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/ sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/how-ethical-high-street-clothes [Accessed on 23/05/2015] “We were the first fashion company to launch a global garment collection initiative. Today, you can hand in any clothes you no longer want. That way, we can reduce waste and give old products a new life. Eventually, we’ll close the loop on textiles so nothing ever goes to waste.” H&M (2015) [Online] Available at: About.Hm.co.uk [Accessed on 25/05/2015] “International brands, they come to our country to get cheap labour but now their lives also became cheap.” Akhter, T. BBC – Clothes To Die For (20, September, 2014) [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/ programmes/b04bwxnd [Accessed on 22/05/2015] “Many fashion designers have taken the liberty to incorporate military inspired design elements into garments with more feminine silhouettes. Other designers have taken the original military style lines and translated these garments to show more feminine flare.” Manuel, M. (2015). Military Fashion Ranks High in Style. [online] The Art Institutes Blog. Available at: http:// www.artinstitutes.edu/blog/military-fashion-ranks-high-in-style [Accessed on 19/05/2015]. “I’ve seen a lot of people in khaki jumpsuits this season and they are so comfortable to wear for the summer.” Beard, T. Interviewee; Student. 2015. “I am a huge fan of Kim Kardashian who wears khaki a lot and she is such a fashion icon!” Kaur, D. Interviewee; Sales Assistant. 2015.
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fig 1. Raymond, M. p 19. (2010) The Trend forecasters Handbook; UK: Laurence King Publishing Ltd Fig 2. Chamberlin, S. (2009) [Online] Available at: http://www.darkoptimism.org/2009/04/15/the-transitiontimeline-in-detail/ [Accessed 20/05/2015] Fig 3. Nairaland.com, (2015). LONDON BALES - Second Hand Clothes Shoes Bags - Landing In 1 Week - Adverts - Nigeria. [online] Available at: http://www.nairaland.com/1453268/london-bales-second-hand-clothes [Accessed 16 May 2015]. Fig 4. The Guardian, (2008). The journey of recycled clothing from charity shops. [online] Available at: http:// www.theguardian.com/society/gallery/2008/may/23/charity.shop.donations [Accessed 19 May 2015]. Fig 5. Unknown, (2015). [online] Pinterest.com. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/2744449747620466/ [Accessed 17 May 2015]. Fig 6. Kirsty, (2013). H&M | Ethical - Sustainable - Fashionable. [online] Ethicalsustainablefashionable. wordpress.com. Available at: https://ethicalsustainablefashionable.wordpress.com/tag/hm/ [Accessed 26 May 2015]. Fig 7. Johnson, K. (2013). Brands’ strategies vary in response to Bangladesh. [online] GazetteNet.com. Available at: http://www.gazettenet.com/home/6057227-95/brands-strategies-vary-in-response-tobangladesh [Accessed 18 May 2015]. Fig 8. Marriot, R. (2013). The house of cards: the Savar building collapse. [online] Libcom.org. Available at: https://libcom.org/news/house-cards-savar-building-collapse-26042013 [Accessed 23 May 2015]. Fig 8a. Stella McCartney (2015) Denim Culottes [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/stella-mccartney [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 9. Valentino (2015) Printed Culottes [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/valentino/full-length-photos/gallery/1267763 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 10. Armani (2015) White Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/giorgio-armani/full-length-photos/gallery/1252712 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 11. Calvin Klein (2015) White Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/calvin-klein-collection [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 12. Versace (2015) Red Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/versace/full-length-photos/gallery/1252129 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 12. Chanel (2015) Red Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ ready-to-wear/chanel/full-length-photos/gallery/1267199 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 13. Mango (2015) Suede Culottes [online] Available at: http://shop.mango.com/GB/p0/women/ mid-season-sale/linen-culottes/?id=41077533_31&n=1&s=mss_she&ident=0__0_1427157454256& ts=1427157454256 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 14. Hermes (2015) Khaki Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/hermes/full-length-photos/gallery/1269662 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] 50
Fig 15. Louis Vuitton (2015) Velvet Culottes [online] Available: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/ready-to-wear/louis-vuitton/full-length-photos/gallery/1268955 [Accessed on: 23/04/15] Fig 16. Armani (2014) Suit [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/readyto-wear/emporio-armani/full-length-photos/gallery/1249079 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 17. Altuzarra (2014) Striped dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/altuzarra/collection/11 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 18. Peter Som [2014] Stripe dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/peter-som/collection/ (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 19. Yigal AzroĂŤl (2014) Stripe trousers [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/yigal-azrouel/collection/9 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 20. Victoria Beckham (2014) Striped mac [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/victoria-beckham/collection/8/ (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 21. Tracy Reese [2014] http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/tracyreese/full-length-photos/gallery/1231053 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 22. Thakoon (2014) Stripe dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/thakoon-addition/collection/18 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 23. DKNY (2014) [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring-2015ready-to-wear/dkny/collection/26 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 24. Tibi (2014)Stripe suit [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/spring2015-ready-to-wear/tibi/collection/23 (Accessed on 15.03.15) Fig 25. Vogue UK, (2015). Show. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ mens/fendi/full-length-photos/gallery/1196645 [Accessed 19 Mar. 2015]. Fig 26. Yamamoto, Y. (2015). [online] Pinterest.com. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/341147740496697160/ [Accessed 18 Mar. 2015]. Fig 27. Tautz, E. (2015). [online] Pinterest.com. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/325244404314023428/ [Accessed 19 Mar. 2015]. Fig 28. Vogue UK, (2015). Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear. [online] Available at: http:// www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/mens/burberry-prorsum [Accessed 24 Mar. 2015]. Fig 29. Dior, C. (2015). Show. [online] Vogue UK. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/springsummer-2015/mens/dior-homme/full-length-photos/gallery/1201987 [Accessed 19 Mar. 2015]. Fig 30. Lauren, G. (2015). [online] Pinterest.com. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/456411743462591192/ [Accessed 19 Mar. 2015]. Fig 31. Vogue UK, (2015). Show. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ mens/fendi/full-length-photos/gallery/1196635 [Accessed 19 Mar. 2015]. Fig 32. Armani, G. (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/mens/ giorgio-armani/full-length-photos/gallery/1197383 [Accessed 20 Mar. 2015]. 51
Fig 33. Dior, C. [2015] Floral dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-couture/christian-dior/collection/37 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 34. Rocha, S. [2015] Red floral dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/simone-rocha/collection/16 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 35. Kors, M. [2015] Pink floral dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/michael-kors/collection/24 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 36. Renta L D, Oscar. [2015] Cream floral dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/oscar-de-la-renta/collection/34 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 37. Chanel. [2015] White and pink dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/chanel/collection/33 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 38. Laurent, S Y. [2015] Black floral dress. [Online] http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/collection/31 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 39. Khan, N. [2015] Beige and red floral dress. [Online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/naeem-khan/collection/35 [Accessed on: 17/03/2015] Fig 40. Gabbana, D. [2015] Black and red dress. [Online] http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/dolce-gabbana/collection/36 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 41. Celine. [2015] Black and yellow dress. [Online] http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/celine/collection/28 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 42. Holland, O H. Green and bright floral dress. [Online] http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/ spring-2015-ready-to-wear/house-of-holland/collection/8 [Accessed on 17/03/2015] Fig 43. Ralph Lauren (2015) Safari Skirt [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/ralph-lauren/collection/8 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 44. Ralph Lauren (2015) Safari Shorts [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/ralph-lauren/collection/16 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 45. Sonia Rykiel (2015) Safari Khaki Shorts [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/ fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/sonia-rykiel/collection/15 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 46. Chanel (2015) Suede Khaki Shirt [online] Available at:http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/chanel/collection/27 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 47. Gucci (2015) Khaki Military Dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/gucci/collection/38 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 48. Marc Jacobs (2015) Military Dress [online] http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/1239362 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 49. Marc Jacobs (2015) Military Dress [online] Available at: http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/collection/15 [Accessed on: 22 March 2015] Fig 50. British Frontier Service (1850) Available at: http://tingsic.tumblr.com/post/5356329352/british-khaki (Accessed on 20.04.15)
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Fig 83. Hodgson, C. (2014). X-Men: Watch Jennifer Lawrence don an army uniform as Mystique helps mutant soldiers escape in new clip. [online] mirror. Available at:http://www.mirror.co.uk/tv/tv-news/x-men-daysfuture-past-video-3511832 [Accessed 23 May 2015]. Fig 84. Wheretoget, (2014). Jacket: cameron diaz jeans fall outfits khaki. [online] Available at: http:// wheretoget.it/look/1241094 [Accessed 26 May 2015]. Fig 85. Mail Online, (2014). Jessica Alba rocks safari style as she steps out in New York. [online] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2655461/Ready-adventure-Jessica-Alba-rocks-safari-chicsteps-New-York-khaki-green-jacket.html [Accessed 17 May 2015]. Fig 86. Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://tumblr.bandofoutsiders.com/post/111497340506/gwynethpaltrow-in-band-of-outsiders-suede#.VW_ajM9Viko[Accessed 28 May 2015]. Fig 86b. Percival J, 2015. Nottingham City Centre, 12 Shop Safari Primary Research Images. Fig 86a. Khatkar, N. (2015) Warehouse Outfit - Own photo taken. Fig 87. Robbins, A. (2015) H&M Bomber - Own photo taken. Fig 88. Khatkar, N. (2015) Mango Outfit - Own photo taken. Fig 89. Ison, J. (2015) Burton Bomber - Own photo taken. Fig 90. Chatha, J. (2015) Topshop Jumpsuit – Own photo taken. Fig 91. Robbins, A. (2015) Zara Coat - Own photo taken. Fig 92. Ison, J. (2015) Urban Outfitters Skirt – Own photo taken Fig 93. Chatha, J. (2015) Def Jam Customised Bomber – Own photo taken. Fig 94. Robbins, A. (2015) H&M Jumpsuit - Own photo taken. Fig 95. Khatkar, N. (2015) Mood Board Created via Pinterest.com Images. Fig 96. Khatkar, N. (2015) Mood Board Created via Pinterest.com Images. Fig 97. Khatkar, N. (2015). Wollaton Park, Nottingham. 10 Images for Primary Research. Fig 98. topshop.com, (2015). Utility All-in-One. [online] Available at: http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/ product/utility-all-in-one-4160851?geoip=noredirect&cmpid=ppc_pla_UK_ip&utm_medium=cpc&tsrc=vdna &istCompanyId=38aa0d7f-6514-4cb3-bbdc-df0d32d48b7f&istItemId=pqriltqtt&istBid=tztx&gclid=CKrB5Juv9 cUCFbQatAodWTwAKw&gclsrc=aw.ds [Accessed 26 May 2015]. Fig 99. ASOS, (2015). Warehouse Military Dress at asos.com. [online] Available at: http://www.asos.com/warehouse/warehouse-military-dress/prod/pgeproduct.
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