Salonfocus Summer 2023

P29: COUPONS

The pros and cons of offering discounts to increase footfall

P32: PRISON

Unlocking the hair and beauty talents in ex-offenders

P35: RETAIL

Tips for launching new products and services in your business

P41: RECORD-KEEPING Why notes on clients’ treatments keeps you legally watertight

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THE CUT

5 Hello and welcome

President Amanda Lodge-Stewart talks about positivity, support and inspiration

6 The 14 things you need to know this issue

From the NHBF’s quarterly survey results to advice on giving notice to your apprentice and the latest news in numbers

THE BUSINESS

22 Government support

With the impact of the cost of living crisis hitting businesses, what schemes are available to help?

26 Male grooming

Keep up to date with the latest male-focused grooming trends from tans to hair replacement

29 Discount decisions

Coupons can be a savvy way of getting clients through the door – but are they worth it?

32 Education in prisons

In the midst of an industrywide skills shortage, there is hidden talent in ex-offenders

35 Retail

Ten tips for introducing new products and services in your salon or barbershop

38 HR series part 2

How should you monitor and manage employee absence?

41 Record-keeping

Making notes of your clients’ treatments and outcomes is so important – here’s why

44 How to...

Take on an apprentice

THE INSPIRATION

46 Mood board

Get inspired by these bright and beautiful splashes of colour for hair and nails

48 What’s trending

We take a look at half-moon nails, sea moss supplements and ‘ugly beauty’

THE END

50 60 seconds with...

Salon owner, life coach and business mentor Jo Irving on her life, learnings and career

The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

THE NHBF

One Abbey Court Fraser Road

Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Richard Lambert

DIGITAL MARKETING DIRECTOR

Samantha Turner-Meyern

EDITORIAL

Editor Hollie Ewers hollie@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett, Amy Beveridge

DESIGN

Senior designer Tom Shone

Picture researcher Claire Echavarry

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION

Production director Jane Easterman

Account director Emma Godfrey emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

PRINTER

Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION

iStock

© The NHBF 2023

All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF.

Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap.

Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.

In the midst of summer, when the sun is shining and the days are longer, it’s always a little easier to feel more positive about things. This positivity is reflected in the results of the NHBF’s latest State of the Industry survey, which showed encouraging results compared to the last quarter, despite the economic challenges the UK faces. You can read a round-up of the survey findings on page 21. Thank you for participating in our surveys – it’s crucial that we get your feedback to be able to gauge the situation in the industry and how we can campaign to help you further. Another survey we’d love you to take part in is the salonfocus readership survey (page 20). Members can also be a part of our 81st annual general meeting on 23 July in London – please notify enquiries@nhbf.co.uk if you wish to attend.

Although the industry survey results show some improvements, it’s important to access support if you need it. Our cover feature on page 22 provides a guide to the government schemes available to help your business and how to claim your share. For further business advice, if considering using coupon companies or discussing discounts to attract more clients, the feature on page 29

looks at the pros and cons of the options available and offers a balanced view on the subject.

With the theme of summer in mind, it’s a busy time for salons and barbershops, and we highlight this with the male grooming article on page 26, looking beyond the standard short back and sides to the trending treatments of 2023 and some top tips for male-focused services.

In addition to all the incredible content awaiting you in this issue, I am thrilled to announce that we are gearing up for this year’s eagerly awaited Top 100 Influencers Index. The Index serves as a platform to honour individuals who have left an indelible mark on our industry – from creative visionaries to business innovators – and we seek to acknowledge those who have pushed the boundaries and set new standards of excellence. You can find more details on page 15.

This is your chance to shine and showcase your remarkable talents or nominate exceptional individuals who have inspired you. Let us come together as a community and celebrate the incredible contributions that make our industry thrive.

NHBF PRESIDENT AMANDA LODGE-STEWART

IT’S CRUCIAL THAT WE GET YOUR FEEDBACK TO BE ABLE TO GAUGE THE SITUATION

THE MESSAGE SHOULD BE CLEAR: THE USE OF GEL POLISH IS FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY

The 14 things you need to know this issue...

BEST PRACTICE KEY POINTS

When working with artificial nail products:

● Avoid skin contact

● Apply to healthy nails only

● Wear appropriate gloves

● Do not reuse gloves

● Remove gloves in a manner that avoids skin contact with the contaminated part of the gloves

● Use the correctly matched lamp and gel system

● Use reputable products that comply with cosmetics legislation.

BEHIND THE HEADLINES

With recent widespread media coverage warning of increasing numbers of allergic reactions to gel nail products, it’s likely that you’ve had to reassure your clients that the services you offer are safe. However, the message should be clear: the use of gel polish is for professional use only and the use of DIY gel kits and cheap products used at home should be discouraged.

While reports of growing numbers of people developing conditions, such as dermatitis or inflammation of the skin, because of allergic reactions to gel nail products are true, it’s important to highlight that many of these reports have been linked to improper practices, and DIY kits with incompatible UV lamps. Some examples are:

● If too much of the skin is exposed to liquid acrylate, an allergy could occur.

● Dust generated from filing or removal of incompletely cured nail coating can be associated with allergic reactions.

● An incompatible lamp and nail system could also lead to an incompletely cured nail, which again can cause an allergy.

Following the original news report from the BBC and a reissued statement from the British Association of Dermatologists regarding the allergic reactions, the government has launched an investigation into the matter.

The NHBF says...

Reiterating the importance of professional knowledge and skill, NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey said: ‘It is vital that both the nail professional and the consumer are aware of the potential dangers and issues around allergies to some gel products, particularly to those using home kits and or purchasing products from the internet.

‘The NHBF wholeheartedly supports the work of the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP) as the voice of the nail industry. We will continue to support the FNP to raise standards in this growing industry, shine a light on those professionals who have invested time, money and energy on gaining the appropriate qualifications, who continue to develop their skills, who show a passion for their craft and care deeply for the health and wellbeing of their clients.’

RESOURCES

For more information, the NHBF suggests the following:

● CTPA best practice guidance: bit.ly/CTPA-nail-allergy-guide

● CTPA advice on minimising allergy risk: bit.ly/CTPA-howto-minimise-risk

● NHBF FAQs Allergy alert testing protocols: nhbf.co.uk/ protocol-faqs

● The FNP: the-fnp.com

2 NEWS IN NUMBERS

According to research by medical professionals’ register Save Face and justmylook.com, the most complained about aesthetics treatments of 2022 were:

DERMAL FILLERS 1948 BOTOX 677 THREAD LIFTS 118 IPL / LASER 33 FAT DISSOLVING INJECTIONS 29

The data revealed that in 2022 there were 2824 complaints made overall regarding unregistered practitioners, with 80% of the practitioners believed to be uninsured and 93% of the clients not aware that any serious complications could occur, believing that their treatments were low risk.

Nail and beauty premises took top spots for retail growth across the UK last year, but hairdressers are the most likely to have closed, reports the Local Data Company.

ONE IN 10 HAIR AND BEAUTY BUSINESSES HAVE £1000 OR LESS IN SAVINGS.

hair salon premises shut in 2022, the fastestdeclining category by change in units.

Almost one in five leaders of smalland medium-sized salons aren’t confident that their business will be afloat in the next three to five years, and one in three sole traders can’t save anything each month. A survey for yell.com found that confidence was lowest in London and the southwest regions.

Greater London had the most searches for laser hair removal, while Greater Manchester favoured builder gel / BIAB nails.

hair and beauty salon premises closed.

Analysis of TikTok views, hashtags and videos related to beauty and aesthetics has revealed the most popular treatments searched for in the UK and which areas favour which treatments the most. The top beauty treatment monthly searches were for:

LASER HAIR REMOVAL – 90,500

BUILDER GEL / BIAB NAILS – 90,500

MICROBLADING – 49,500

MICRONEEDLING – 49,500

BOTOX – 40,500

BROW LAMINATION – 40,500

LIP FILLER – 40,500

YOU ASKED, THEY ANSWERED

My apprentice has been with me for nearly two years – how do I tell them I don’t have a job for them at the end of the apprenticeship?

Do I have to give them notice?

Laura Williams, head of team and solicitor at Worknest says:

● An apprentice should be employed under an Apprenticeship Agreement (AA) as opposed to a standard contract of employment. The NHBF provides AA templates for members (see Resources). An AA is a direct contract between the salon and the individual concerned, and is different from the tripartite agreement between the college provider, salon and apprentice.

● The AA should be for a fixed term to cover the period of apprenticeship.

● Its term may need to be extended if the apprentice has not fully completed the course, including their endpoint assessment (EPA), by the end of the initial term.

● The apprentice is an employee, so they will be entitled to notice if their employment is terminated. This should be set out in their AA, and the notice should be in line with statutory minimum requirements.

● If a salon offers the apprentice a junior stylist role once they have completed their apprenticeship, the AA terms end and they will move onto a standard contract of employment. In this situation, their period of employment is continuous.

● If the salon cannot offer the apprentice a job at the end of their apprenticeship, they should arrange a meeting with the apprentice to discuss this and confirm the end of their apprenticeship – and the end of their employment with the salon, once they have completed their training and EPA.

● If the salon can hold this meeting in good time before the apprentice completes their course, the apprentice can work their notice period after this has been given.

● If the meeting is held later and formal notice is then given, part of the notice period may need to be paid in lieu – if there is not enough time for the apprentice to work it before they complete their EPA and their employment ends.

Key concerns

● It is particularly important to ensure a fair procedure is followed as the apprentice approaches two years of employment with the salon, because at that point they will accrue unfair dismissal rights.

● Apprentices should ideally be taken on with a view to offering them a qualified position at the end of their apprenticeship. This also ensures the salon gets a return on its investment in producing a new member of the team.

RESOURCES

● NHBF apprenticeship agreements and contracts: nhbf.co.uk/contracts

● NHBF Apprenticeship guide: nhbf.co.uk/apprenticeship-guide

For more on how to take on apprentices, see page 44.

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ROB WOOD

Founder

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT BEING PLACED IN THE TOP 10?

It’s amazing because, as I understand, there’s been no other hair system company or stylist in the top 100 before. It’s important that people get to know about us and that we’re very much part of the hairdressing industry.

WHAT’S HAS BEEN KEY TO YOUR SUCCESS?

Surrounding myself with a team of people who are as passionate as me and can offer different skills to me, and who I can learn from. We’ve grown the team organically and it has proved successful.

HOW IMPORTANT IS SOCIAL MEDIA FOR YOUR BUSINESS?

The power of social media has absolutely transformed my business, going from having trained three salons to now having more than 50 that we work with, all of varying levels and sizes. And it’s great because they all want to do what I do and to replicate that for their clients. So social media has been so influential for my business – particularly a video that went viral with more than 30 million views across all social platforms.

DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS AN INFLUENCER?

YOU R S ELF A S AN INFL U EN C ER ? ally?

re what I do for a and ompany can do ists

Me personally? No. But what I want to do is share what I do for a job, and what the company can do for people and for stylists.

YOU RECENTLY APPEARED ON DAYTIME TV – WAS THAT DOWN TO THE VIRAL VIDEO? Yes – they saw my transformation videos on TikTok and they wanted to replicate one with a member of their staff in the studio. It was a great experience!

WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR JOB?

WHO INFLUENCES YOU?

NC E S Y OU?

much started

of hair

From a hair system angle, there’s a guy called @phildoeshair in New York. He very much started ramping up the visibility of hair systems, but in a very trendy way. For positivity I like to follow the singer Lizzo (@lizzobeeating), and for laughs I follow comedian Alan Carr (@chattyman).

I like to Lizzo ating), ghs I edian an).

Seeing the expressions and the ‘wow factor’ on people’s faces when they can’t believe how good they look after a treatment. Clients often come to me feeling small, but leave feeling about 10 feet tall. And that for me is just amazing – to be able to give someone their hair back.

WHAT’S IN STORE FOR 2023 AND BEYOND?

We have more inspiring videos and social content to come, as well as entering more awards and attending events such as Barber Connect and Salon International. We’re also looking into providing hair loss education in colleges, so watch this space!

STATS

NHBF rating: 7/100

IG and TT: @novocabelohair

TT followers: 113.9k

Top video views on TT: 3.7m

and director of hair replacement business Novo Cabelo, Rob came seventh in the NHBF’s Top 100 Influencers Index 2022.

APPRENTICESHIP FUNDING BOOST

The Hairdressing Professional and Barbering Apprenticeship Standards at level 2 have been approved along with an increase in the funding band.

Multi-award-winning salon owner Anne Veck has launched a suite of training courses. Anne Veck Education offers options for all levels, from apprentices to career break returners.

Dove is on a mission to create a #NoDigitalDistortion movement and has been encouraging people to post a video to #TurnYourBack on the popular Bold Glamour filter. Do you use filters on your posts?

Two-thirds of British women aged60 to 69 feel confident in their appearance – more than any other age group. Almost one in three say they felt moreconfident as they aged.

The original Hair Professional standard, which covered both hairdressing and barbering as optional pathways, has been split into two apprenticeship standards:

● Hairdressing Professional at level 2

● Barbering Professional at level 2

The Hairdressing Professional at level 2 has been given a revised funding (band 14) of £11,000 – an increase of £4000 per apprentice. The Barbering Professional at level 2 has been given a revised funding (band 12) of £9000 – an increase of £2000 per apprentice.

NHBF president Amanda LodgeStewart shared her enthusiasm for the announcement: ‘The new funding bands will have a huge impact on the sector, supporting providers and employers to raise the quality and

standards of what we do. This is a step in the right direction, and it is great to see that the government are starting to recognise the contribution our sector makes to GDP and local communities.’

The revised standards include new content, which has been included to reflect today’s modern hair salons and barbershops, including employee rights and responsibilities, hairdressing and barbershop culture, history, industry codes of conduct, best practice, infection control, ethics, social media, maintaining the mental health and wellbeing of self and clients, and hair types and classification (from type 1 to type 4).

For more on apprenticeships, visit nhbf.co.uk/apprentices-and-t-levels or turn to page 44 for our guide on how to take on an apprentice.

Almost one in three salon owners are considering closing sites or downsizing their salon thanks to soaring energy bills, which make up 40% of the average salon’s total costs (see page 22 for potential support

Nine in 10 youth mental health specialists say exposure to harmful beauty content on social media can lead to physical consequences, such as disordered eating or self-harm.

is the worst UK city for your skin, after analysing average sunlight hours, water hardness and pollution, a study says. The city had the highest overall skin impact score, with a pollution rating of 8.1 and water hardness of seven out of 10.

WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NOT

OUT AND ABOUT WITH THE NHBF NDAB 7

Spring party

The NHBF ran a competition for one lucky Member to win two tickets to the Hair and Beauty Charity’s Spring Party at Egg London. The winner, hairstylist Aaron Knechtl, went along to the event with the NHBF’s Rosina Robson, Sam Turner-Meyern and Caroline Larissey. Speaking about the event, Sam said: ‘From competition to celebration! In April, we announced to more than 100 people on IG Live that Aaron was our winner of tickets to the Hair and Beauty Charity’s Spring Party. Laughter and unforgettable memories were made as we helped to raise funds for a great cause. It was an honour to party the night away alongside our winner, making it a night to remember!’

BBC Breakfast

NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey was interviewed for BBC Breakfast back in April, highlighting cost issues and client behaviour changes that are affecting salons and barbershops – did you spot her?

Women in Science Awards

The NHBF’s Richard Lambert and Rosina Robson went along to the Women in Science Awards at the Houses of Parliament and were inspired by some of the amazing women who were shortlisted for their work innovating in sustainability, engineering, computing, maths, physics and more! They said it was great to take the opportunity to celebrate STEM (science, technology, engineering and maths) careers for women in the hair and beauty sector and beyond.

DIARY DATES DON’T FORGET TO COME AND SAY HELLO TO US…

● The NHBF’s 81st AGM in London on 23 July

● Professional Beauty Manchester on 24-25 September

● Salon International at ExCeL London on 14-16 October

Since the last issue, members of the NHBF team have been representing the sector at numerous events and have even managed to appear on the BBC. Take a look at where we’ve been and what we’ve been up to.

Above: Winner Aaron Knechtl (left) and Nicholas Stones

Below: Rosina Robson, Caroline Larissey, Aaron Knechtl and Sam Turner-Meyern

We are all friends here at the NHBF and what do we do with our friends? We help them out wherever we can! Refer & Earn is a great way to start the conversation about joining the NHBF, and how becoming a Member will not only benefit their business but will also be a vital lifeline if they ever need professional support and advice.

You’re already a big part of the NHBF family and your loyalty is what keeps us here. As a thank you for referring a friend, we are offering you a £25 high street voucher and your friend will get £25 off their first annual membership fee.

READY TO GET INVOLVED? HERE’S HOW IT WORKS…

Refer a friend online: Simply complete a quick online form. You will need to have your membership number handy. Refer a friend by calling us: Ask your friend to give us a call on 01234 831965.

Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/refer

REFER AND EARN

everyone

Updated TV guidance

The aim is to provide more clarity, as uncertainty regarding licences and pricing was identified after reviewing copyright regulations. The guidance will be relevant to various establishments, including salons and barbershops.

Don’t forget, NHBF Members benefit from a 10% discount on the PPL portion of their music licence.

Go to nhbf.co.uk/music-licence

ATTENTION ALL INFLUENCERS

Get your nominations in for the NHBF Top 100.

It's that time of year again... hair and beauty experts with impressive online followings can nominate themselves or others for the NHBF Top 100 Influencers Index.

Introduced after lockdown, the Index celebrates the individual hair and beauty professionals who champion the industry, sharing their knowledge and engaging with colleagues.Each year the criteria has been refined and, for 2023, changes have been made based on feedback from those included in the Top 100 and the wider industry.

The key principles judged by the independent external agency are engagement, consistency of posting, the quality of content and its relevance to the audience. The NHBF will also look at the growth of following, and will filter out anyone

who has obviously bought their followers. This year Instagram, Tik Tok and YouTube will be the only platforms measured. Facebook has been excluded as it doesn’t allow an external AI tool to search the analytics. Another change is only those who have an active clientele/column will be eligible to enter or be nominated – other criteria about being a qualified professional remain. This is an individual-only list – no brands, salons or barbershops. Theentry deadline is31 July 2023 You can nominate as many people as you want – but don’t nominate the same person repeatedly as judging is based on analytics, not nominations. The final Index will be announced in November.

For more details on how to enter and nominate, visit nhbf.co.uk/top-100-influencers

The government’s guidelines on showing TV and films in your barbershop or salon have been updated.

A DOUBLE CALLING

Reverend Anthea Mitchell runs Hair Professional in Maidstone, Kent, and is also a priest at nearby St Paul’s Church. But how does she juggle both careers?

a protracted journey. The Church of England is very much set up to train people to serve as parish priests, which means ministry would have been my only job. It’s been hard to change minds about what modern ministry can look like, but I got there in the end.

What's an average day like?

I’m usually at the salon before 7am and am often there after 9pm, five days a week. It’s a good day when I have lots of colour to do – it means I have 30 minutes when the colour is developing to do my ministry work. I’ll write the prayers or finish the sermon for the weekend. My mind is flipping between the two things all day!

Which came first – hairdressing or the church?

I’ve wanted to be a priest since I was little, but it wasn’t an option back then. The Church of England wasn’t yet ordaining women, and my dad was a hairdresser, so I grew up in the family business. I was still very involved in church but had shelved the idea of becoming a priest. Then, one day, the vicar rang me and asked if there was a chance I could be called into ministry. I thought it was too late for someone approaching 50, but he said it was never too late.

How do you do both jobs?

I wanted to be a Minister in Secular Employment, which means I’m not solely serving as a priest, but it was

Why do you wear a collar in the salon?

It almost feels like there’s no point in being a Minister in Secular Employment if you’re going to hide it. I would obviously never force religion down people’s throats, and clients are at liberty to ignore the collar: they are there to have their hair done and that’s what they’re paying for. But my ministry work does come up in conversation, so it seems silly not to wear it.

How do clients respond?

Most clients are regulars who have journeyed this path with me. It is then mostly picked up by people who are already involved in the church. Others just don’t notice. I’ll be asked what I’m

doing at the weekend and I’ll tell them I’m busy on Sunday mornings. They then ask what I'll be doing – while I’m standing there in a dog collar with a rosary around my neck! In my experience, people tend to see what they expect to see.

Your salon is licensed by your bishop. What does this mean?

To recognise my unique ministry, the bishop who ordained me also gave me papers to put up in the salon, which means I’m officially allowed to carry out the business of my ministry there. I can’t carry out a wedding, as clergy are only licensed to carry out a wedding in a church. But if I obtained the bishop’s consent, I could do communion in the salon. And – if I got permission from the church – I could probably set up a font in there and do a baptism. I can certainly hold a service in the salon, which is something I’m considering!

Get involved!

salonfocus is

We would love for you to share your insight into the industry, or talk about the issues you have faced in running your business. Perhaps you have lots of contacts who would be able to help us ensure that member voices are heard in our articles.

EAB volunteers will play a vital role, helping to reflect the views of the NHBF Membership, provide expert advice and insight into the

subjects that matter, and supply industry contacts to the salonfocus editorial team.

The EAB needs to reflect the diversity across all three industries in the UK – hair, beauty and barbering. So, if you’re a salon or shop owner, and you’ve got something to share, we’d love you to get in touch.

EAB Membership is open to all NHBF Members and will last for a minimum of three years.

WHAT WOULD YOU NEED TO DO?

1. Assist in the general planning of future issues by:

● Attending two meetings each year (virtually)

● Bring fresh content ideas to each meeting

● Discuss latest developments and how these could be reflected in the pages

● Provide your expertise.

2. Ask everyone you know to share their stories and experiences with the team to feature in the magazine.

3. Ensure key NHBF messages are shared, and the magazine is promoted to colleagues and fellow Members.

Interested?

To apply, send your CV and a brief cover letter or video (no more than three minutes) outlining why you would like to join, and what you feel you can bring to the board by 31 July. Applications and short videos should be sent to Emma Godfrey at emma@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk Feel

here for YOU. Packed with news and views, hot topics, and top tips, it provides all the insight and resources you need to run a profitable business.

NOW, for the first time, we’re launching an editorial advisory board (EAB) so YOU can help shape future content and be a part of our award-winning magazine.

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SPOTTING THE SIGNS

12 2

We are part of a presentation team that talks to restaurants, cafes, hotel reception staff and other hairdressers. Any business can benefit, but it is particularly crucial for hairdressers.

In the salon

Training

The partnership

One of our clients is a founding member of Dementia Forward, a grassroots charity in Yorkshire, and they have helped us become a ‘dementia-friendly’ business. We are now held up as a flagship example for businesses that want to do the same.

Broadening horizons

People with early-onset dementia often have an issue with mirrors. They can see their own reflection and not recognise themselves – they often refer back to how they used to look when they were younger, rather than how they look now. Part of the training is recognising the key signs or behaviours of dementia. When we recognise this sign specifically, we know to turn that client sideways, or place them with their back to the mirror.

WHAT? Hayley (second from left) and staff at Wood's of Westgate in Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, began working last year with Portland College – a specialist college for young people with disabilities. The team regularly speak to students about their own careers and teach them hair and beauty skills.

WHY? Hayley describes her salon as ‘community rooted’. She says: ‘We already work with lots of local schools and colleges and offer work experience placements, so we wanted to do the same with Portland. We pride ourselves on being inclusive and we want to help others. If people come and spend their hard-earned cash with us, then we should give something back to the local community. It’s about helping

Staff are taken through what dementia is and how it presents – there are about 150 different conditions under the dementia umbrella. Our team at Dangerfield & Keane have been taught how to have conversations with clients who present with the condition, as well as clients who might sit in the chair and burst into tears because a relative has dementia. It’s about learning the signs, such as repetitive behaviour or someone being muddled with their appointment times, and knowing how to flag it with a relative.

Find out more at dementiaforward.org.uk

young people transition into the next stage of life.’

HOW? ‘Staff talk about how they got into the industry and what bits of the job they enjoy,’ says Hayley. ‘My team recently did a series of masterclasses, too, which ended in a skills competition. The young people were taught things like how to do a fancy plait and dramatic eye make-up. Everyone got given a pamper pack prize for taking part, and the winner was invited to come in and have a wash and blow-dry in the salon.’

WHO? Hayley and four members of her team currently volunteer at Portland College. She says: ‘It’s helping my team become more inclusive as a whole by gaining an insight into working with another demographic in society.’

Gerri Dangerfield Keane’s salon has partnered with the charity Dementia Forward and is now inspiring other businesses to become ‘dementia friendly’.

Salon owner Hayley Wood and her team give up their time to teach young people with disabilities about the hair and beauty industry.

Have your say!

The salonfocus readership survey is your chance to tell us what you think about your membership magazine, and to help shape the content you read and learn from.

What do you really think of your membership magazine salonfocus?

Love it but wish there were certain topics covered more often, or perhaps in a different way? Are there areas not being covered that you would like to read? What articles do you find most interesting? And is there anything you would change?

We want to ensure that salonfocus continually provides you with informative, engaging and entertaining content that helps you to do your job better. In other words, we want to ensure that you get the most out of your membership magazine.

Your feedback is hugely valuable, and the readership survey is an opportunity for you to tell us what you think, and to help shape this award-winning industry publication.

As an added bonus and thanks, you could be in with the chance of winning one of two £75 John Lewis gift cards

Complete the survey at bit.ly/salonfocusreadershipsurvey-2023

Positivity returns

NHBF industry survey shows improved results.

Despite the challenging economic climate, with double-digit inflation, the NHBF’s latest quarterly survey results for April 2023 show the industry returning to a positivity that was previously seen in spring/ summer 2022. Here are some of the findings:

Overall

● More businesses report making a small or good profit (43%)

● 38% of businesses are breaking even

● Fewer businesses (19%) are making a small or substantial loss.

The general trend towards increasing prices is slowing:

● 64% of businesses had raised their prices in the previous three months

● A further 51% will do so over the next three months.

Reliance on external support has eased back to levels seen in spring/summer 2022:

● 58% of businesses are either partially or completely reliant on government support – down from 71% in January.

Energy costsare still at the top of business concerns in terms of impact on the business (80%). Other major concerns are increased cost of

trade supplies and increases to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage.

Staffing and recruitment

Intentions have improved slightly, but remain firmly in negative territory:

● 23% have cut back on apprentices

● Only 15% (up from 9% in January) were ‘definitely’ or ‘likely’ to take on apprentices in the next three months

● Only 21% of were ‘definitely’ or ‘likely’ to take on new staff in the next three months (up from 15% in January).

The future

Business survival expectations have improved and are in line with a more positive outlook seen in July 2022:

WHAT THE NHBF SAYS:

● 64% are now confident of their survival (up from 49% in January)

al ry) ird of e not e hs

● However, a third of businesses are not sure whether they will survive the next six months. Growth intentions have improved and are back in line with spring/summer 2022:

● 41% (up from 30% in January) intend to grow their business either rapidly or moderately

● 41% of businesses intend to remain the same size

● 19% are planning to downsize or hand over the business (down from 25% in January).

ons 2022 : 30 % tend business y sses same size ing and over anuary).

ort in uk / t-2023

Read the report in full at nhbf.co.uk/ industry-report-2023

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert says: ‘Overall, this latest NHBF State of the Industry survey is showing a more positive feeling in general and a sense of improvement for most of the industry.

‘Hopefully, the announcement of a rise in funding for the apprenticeship standards will encourage more employers to change their mind about recruiting junior staff, and we will start to see more young people come into the industry, sowing the seeds for future growth.

‘As an organisation we will continue to use this vital information to help inform our work with government for their planning on issues that directly affect our industry.’

STAKE YOUR

WORDS KAYE MCINTOSH

Gigabit broadband vouchers

Annual investment allowance (AIA)

Times are tough. Caught between rising energy bills, increasing costs and clients cutting back, it’s no surprise that salon owners are worried about the future. According to an ONS survey, in April seven in 10 businesses across the country had concerns about survival.

‘Government funding has kept a lot of hair and beauty businesses going that wouldn’t necessarily have navigated their way past the last six months,’ says Rosina Robson, NHBF director of policy and public affairs. ‘We’ve had members contacting us about energy bills tripling. For at least half of businesses, their bills went up by 40%.’

Here’s our guide to claiming the help on offer.

What’s the benefit? Up to £4500 towards achieving higher speeds. Who qualifies? Homes and small- and medium-sized businesses in rural areas with speeds below 100Mbps. You can combine with other residents or businesses to raise funds for options such as fibre-optic lines. It’s part of Project Gigabit, a £5bn programme launched in 2022 to help communities get fast gigabit-capable broadband. How do you apply? You can see if you are eligible at gigabitvoucher.culture. gov.uk

Do you have to pay anything back? No.

What’s the benefit? Up to £1m for small businesses to invest in equipment. You can deduct up to 100% of the costs from your profits before tax. The AIA was introduced in 2008 and temporarily increased to £1m from 2019, with HMRC confirming it would be made permanent from April 2023.

Who qualifies? Businesses that pay tax.

How do you apply? Via your tax return. See gov.uk/ capital-allowances/annualinvestment-allowance Do you have to pay back? No.

There is help available, but with a bewildering variety of schemes, how do you know what you can access?

GOVERNMENT FUNDING HAS KEPT A LOT OF BEAUTY BUSINESSES GOING

Energy grants to reduce carbon footprints

What’s the benefit? Funding for energy efficiency projects such as heat pump installation.

Who qualifies? It varies in different areas. Check with Ofgem at bit.ly/ Ofgem-grants-schemes or search the Department for Business and Trade website at bit.ly/Gov-businessenergy-support

How do you apply? Providers have different requirements, but you usually need a business plan. Do you have to pay back? Schemes vary – some may require you to provide matched funding.

Small business grants

What’s the benefit? Grants cover equipment such as laptops and sinks, or activities such as marketing.

CASE STUDY THE SALON OWNER’S VIEW

Janet Brunskill owns Park Row Hair & Beauty in Brighouse, West Yorkshire. She took out a £30,000 Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan and £50,000 Bounce Back Loan, as well as various local grants in 2020/21 worth £2000 to £10,000.

‘The government has done a lot to help – however, we are still in the early stages of getting back on our feet. I have done as much as I can to keep my costs down.

‘Fortunately, I didn’t have to dip into either of the Covid-19 loans, but they were a bit of security during the dark days of lockdown.

‘Business rates relief is really helping. My rates were £6500, including the rooms I closed when I shut the beauty side of the business.

‘I have two apprentices finishing and two about to start. I may not have been as quick to employ an apprentice if the funding wasn’t there.

‘The government should continue business rates relief and put more funding into apprenticeships – it’s the future of the industry.’

Who qualifies? Local businesses.

Most offer funding up to £2500 and you have to match the grant contribution. How do you apply? Contact your council’s business support service. Do you have to pay back? Not usually – check details with the awarding body.

Renewing your energy deal

The NHBF has partnered with broker DBS to help members find the best deals. Rosina says: ‘Energy prices are starting to go down now, but it’s still a very volatile market. If you have contracts coming up for renewal, contact DBS early to make sure you get the best possible rate.’ Visit nhbf.co.uk/ energy-partnership to find out more.

Energy bills discount scheme

What’s the benefit? A reduction in the unit cost of gas and electricity. Who qualifies? Businesses on fixedprice contracts, signing new fixed-price contracts, out of contract, on variable tariffs or flexible purchase contracts. A one-off payment of £150 is available for any firm not connected to the gas

grid. Visit bit.ly/Gov-energynon-dom to find out more. How do you apply? It should be automatically applied to bills until March 2024, but there are reports of some suppliers creating barriers. If you have problems with your supplier, contact the NHBF, which is collecting intelligence to take to Ofgem.

Do you have to pay back? No.

Working from home

Make sure you claim for a proportion of costs via your tax return. There are different ways to work out what you can claim. Visit bit.ly/Gov-expenses-selfemployed to find out more. Do you have to pay back? No.

Apprenticeships funding

What’s the benefit? The government pays 95% towards the cost of training and assessing your apprentice. You can get an extra £1000 if they are aged:

● 16 to 18

● 19 to 25 and have an education, health and care plan or are a care leaver. Who qualifies? Businesses employing an apprentice via a recognised training provider. How do you apply? Use your apprenticeships service account. Visit bit.ly/Gov-apprenticeaccount to find out more.

Do you have to pay back? No.

Employment allowance

What’s the benefit? It reduces the employer’s Class 1 National Insurance (NI) contributions bill by up to £5000. You pay less each time you run your payroll. You apply when processing the first payroll at the start of the tax year. You can claim for the previous four tax years.

Who qualifies? Employers with NI contributions under £100,000.

THE ENERGY MARKET IS STILL VERY VOLATILE

How do you apply? Via payroll software: check the ‘Employment Allowance Indicator’ field when you send an Employment Payment Summary. If you don’t have that field, use Basic PAYE Tools, which is free from HMRC for businesses with fewer than 10 employees. Do you have to pay it back? No.

How to succeed

Liane Ranaboldo, managing director of Tilleys Accountancy, says: ‘Have your business plan ready as most schemes will ask for this. This is to ensure grants are paid to viable businesses.

‘Most council areas will have business support services that can assist for free, or your accountant can help.

‘Check whether your council still offers grants or can point you to any other sources of funding and advice. If help is available, it sometimes requires you to match funding. Sign up for help at your local council and subscribe to any business newsletters so you can see when grants are available.

‘Your own accountant can direct you to sources of finance

RESOURCES

and help with a strategy to grow your business.’

● Sign up for NHBF updates for alerts on funding opportunities at nhbf.co.uk/news

● Get in touch with NHBF partner energy broker DBS to make sure you find the best deal.

THE NHBF PLAN

NHBF leaders have called on the chancellor to offer:

● Continued support on business rates

● More financial support for apprenticeships

● Restraint on rises to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage

● A fairer tax system that avoids the cliff edge bill when you cross the £85,000 VAT threshold

● A crackdown on tax-evading businesses to limit unfair competition

● Targeted support on energy bills.

oecadebtelp e. og into members’ area t nhbf.co.uk/debt-helpline o to

● If you are worried about your business finances, the NHBF offers a free commercial debt helpline. Log into the members’ area at to talk to advisers.

● Help to Grow brings all the government’s schemes together: helptogrow.campaign.gov.uk/ my-business-needs-support

● For Wales, the finance finder for businesses has lots of areas to explore: businesswales.gov.wales

● For Scotland, Scottish Enterprise outlines support and advice: scottish-enterprise.com

MOST COUNCIL AREAS WILL HAVE FREE BUSINESS SUPPORT SERVICES

With the summer season in full swing, we look at the latest in male grooming and how you can tap into its rapid growth.

SKINCARE

Anel Lamine is the owner of award-winning salon Illumin8 Beauty in Wimbledon Village, which offers a range of male-specific treatments such as facials, pedicures and manicures.

‘Our menu lists specific men’s treatments because I didn’t want men to feel like they were having 'female' treatments. When we first started out, it seemed the older gentlemen often had the idea that beauty treatments should be just for women, so we like to make them feel comfortable: this is specifically for them.

‘Initially, the majority of men who come to us have probably been given a push by their partners, but we are seeing more men come of their own accord. And it’s not just younger men, who may be more confident asking for these treatments – I would say the majority of our customers are now from an older generation.

‘Waxing, especially back waxing, is our most popular male treatment right now. However, with some of our male clients, I have taken the chance to upsell a treatment and have also suggested tidying up their brows –highlighting that it can make them look well groomed without being too obvious they have done anything.’

Find out more at illumin8beauty.co.uk

SPRAY TANNING

James Harknett is Britain’s leading spray tanner, and his award-winning work has appeared across the media – not least on the celebrities taking part in ITV’s Dancing on Ice. James is based at the W London hotel’s AWAY Spa. He says that among men, interest in spray tanning has grown immensely.

‘Ten years ago, I would have said 5% of my business was men. Now it’s more like 45%.

‘The main reason for guys to get a spray tan is because they’re going away somewhere – summer holidays, festivals, weekend breaks – and they want to look good around the pool. I’m also starting to do a lot of wedding grooms, even if it’s just on their face when they wear a suit.

‘Part of the reason for this increased interest is because we live in an Instagram era where people show off their bodies, but it’s also about male grooming in general: looking good and feeling good.

‘When I meet clients for the first time, I always ask them about their skin regime. I can say that even despite the progress in male grooming, most men still don’t exfoliate. But they are using cleanser or scrub on their face, and many are moisturising and using an SPF as well.’

Find out more at jamesharknett.co.uk/home

TOP TIPS

SEVEN WAYS TO THINK ABOUT MALE-FOCUSED SERVICES

NHBF Board member Jamie Mettyear is the owner of the award-winning Mettyear’s Day Spa, Salon and Cafe in Herne Bay. He suggests what to consider when offering new services targeted at men.

1 Demand

Male clients make up almost 40% of our clientele, and the male beauty industry is growing on average around 8% each year.

2 Specific products

Invest in a small men’s skincare range because men prefer easy, no-hassle products with male scents. As much as skincare is generally unisex, men prefer to have a ‘men-specific’ product.

3 Male menu

Offer a specific mens’ treatment menu for a no-nonsense service. But don’t forget to consider gender-neutral pricing to avoid claims of sexual discrimination.

4Get the message out

Marketing men’s services through the women who already visit your salon – as treatments for their partners – is the best way to start.

5 Specialist training

Men’s waxing is very different to women’s, especially the intimate areas, so specific training is required. It’s not for every therapist.

6 Be ready to expand

Where the men’s beauty industry has grown so much, scale all your existing treatments across to men – waxing, tinting, massage and facials.

7 Keep up to date

Every salon or spa should keep an eye on grooming developments, from the latest beard trends to microdermabrasion facials and spray tans.

HAIR REPLACEMENT

Rob Wood came seventh in the NHBF Top 100 Influencers Index 2022 and his company, Novo Cabelo, is one of the fastest-growing hair replacement businesses in the UK. Rob says more and more men are turning to hair replacement systems.

‘Despite the history of hair replacement and the stigma that surrounds it, there is a lot of positivity coming out of social media now.

‘We have customers ranging from 18 to 85, but our typical male client is probably around 35 to 45. They’ve fought against hair loss, reached a fork in the road and decided to try hair replacement.

‘Our hair replacement systems come with seven inches of hair and can be cut into whatever style you want. You can do a quiff or a short crop – a lot of people go for something that goes under the radar.

‘That said, longer styles are coming in now. I think it kicked off last year with the mullet and now curtains are coming back, too – the 1990s are back in!’

To read more about Rob, turn to page 12.

Find out more at novocabelo.co.uk

NEW TOOLS

When it comes to male grooming tools, fab bits of kit are appearing all the time. Here are the newest tools from Wahl, Andis and BaByliss Pro.

Lia Bacon at Wahl UK says: ‘The Gold 5 Star Cordless Magic Clip is designed to achieve the smoothest fades. This features a new diamondlike carbon-coated blade that is strong and rustresistant, paired with a more powerful motor to take fading to the next level.’

Angie Vlasaty Peterson of Andis says: ‘The beSPOKE trimmer delivers power and precision with a high-speed rotary motor to solve daily challenges. The Andis Outliner Deep-Tooth GTX-Z Blade delivers crisp visibility for tight lines, slick fades and top-notch design work. The blade’s aggressive, zero-gap setting delivers a razor-like finish.’

BaByliss PRO’s Cordless Super Motor Clipper might not be new, but it comes in a new customisable format, explains brand ambassador Jody Taylor. ‘This product now has the option to customise with different styles of Japanese steel blades – choose between fade, taper or wedge. The high-torque brushless motor is for consistently powerful and precise cutting. Part of the CustomFX range, the clipper comes in a variety of colours with optional engraving.’

Find out more at wahl.co.uk, andis.com and babyliss.com

MALE GROOMING STATS

$81.2bn

ESTIMATED VALUE OF GLOBAL MALE GROOMING MARKET BY 2024

£73.8m

UK MARKET VALUE OF MEN’S FACE CARE PRODUCTS (2022)

175%

YEAR-ON-YEAR INCREASE IN UK GOOGLE SEARCHES FOR MEN’S SKINCARE PRODUCTS (2019 TO 2020)

RESOURCES

● NHBF blog – Is your salon or barbershop equipped for the rise in male grooming? nhbf.co.uk/ male-grooming

THE PROS AND CONS

With clients still feeling the pinch, offering coupons can be a savvy way of getting them through the door. But what are the pros and cons of the options available?

COUPON COMPANY PLATFORMS

PROS:

● REACH: Groupon is the ultimate mass-eyeball platform, where people can search for the latest offers in or around their location. On the plus side, it has high brand awareness – in 2022 YouGov found that 88% of Britons had heard of it.

● FINDS CLIENTS QUICKLY: Laurence Wilson of Dorset-based salon Riva Hair says: ‘Groupon makes offers that are easy to set up and easy to buy. It’s good as a solution to get new clients quickly.’

It’s worth remembering that salon owners can get more out of coupon platform providers if they use them tactically – for instance, if they are used to promote under-used services or options.

WORDS PETER CRUSH

Another way to get more out of these providers is by using them to test which discounts yield the best responses, enabling owners to fine-tune their offers.

CONS: SALON OWNERS WILL NEED TO ASSESS THE COSTS VERSUS BENEFITS OF USING SUCH SITES

● TOO COSTLY? Groupon typically requires a 50-75% discount – which could actually cost salon owners money to fulfil in terms of the time they’ve spent paying their employees to deliver the service. Then there’s the commission. ‘Coupon

companies can take 50% of an already very heavily discounted offer,’ says Laurence.

● TOO BIG A RESPONSE? ‘I’ve actually seen salons go out of business because the discount has been too popular and they can’t live up to what was sold,’ says Phil Evans, managing director at Salon Guru. ‘You have to be careful about what the response rate could be.’

● WILL THEY REALLY BUILD NEW CLIENTS? Groupon claims more than 80% of clients say they’re likely to return to the business they’ve visited. However, return custom is doubted by salon owners. ‘Quite a few salon owners I know say they’ve tried coupon companies, but report that they only attract one-off custom –people who want big discounts but won’t pay full price for other services, so won’t return,’ says

Sandra Cross, owner of Great Malvernbased Altitude Hair Salon. ‘They may be good to get people through the door, but you need to know what you want to achieve.’

● LOSS OF INFORMATION: ‘If you sell through a third party, they’ll take your information,’ warns Phil. ‘Do you really want to be giving marketing information away, too?’

GOING IT ALONE?

For others, running their own coupon scheme is a better option.

Gustav Fouche owns his eponymous premium salon in Westbourne Grove, London. He says that, ultimately, running your own coupons gives you control. ‘Our mantra is never to discount, but to add on. By making your own coupons, you can be more strategic – for instance, offering clients a blow-dry as an extra if they book a haircut.’

WHEN TO USE PLATFORMS AND WHEN TO GO IT ALONE

USE PLATFORMS WHEN:

● You need to build awareness or clients quickly. They’ll have the reach you don’t – and your salon’s name will get out there, even if not everyone becomes a regular client.

● You have downtime that needs filling. This might get you particular clients, such as students or OAPs during the daytime.

● You want to experiment with types of offers or services to discount.

GO IT ALONE WHEN:

● You have loyal clients you want to reward.

● You’ve mastered online marketing and can target your own database better (for instance, turning lapsed clients into paying ones again).

● You want to keep more of the income you get from already discounted services.

CONS PROS

BY MAKING YOUR OWN COUPONS, YOU CAN BE MORE STRATEGIC – FOR INSTANCE, OFFERING CLIENTS A  BLOW-DRY AS AN EXTRA IF THEY BOOK A

Gustav says he gets more out of coupons by being clever with them. ‘We use referral coupons where, if someone refers a client, it’s the existing client who gets a reward. In our case, it’s 20% off the same service that the new client books. This way we’re rewarding the referrer, while a new client is gained not because they get a discount, but because they want the experience.’

PROS:

● Once you have set up your salon offer (a one-off cost) and paid for the traffic from Google (pay as you go), all the income is yours.

● You can easily experiment with different discounts to see which are getting you the most new clients and who is rebooking.

● You can switch your coupon offers off and on as you wish, and gradually expand them as you gain more experience, confidence and clients.

CONS:

● You will have to learn how to use Google Ads – and using a digital agency can be pricey. However, setting up a simple Google Ads pay-per-click (PPC) campaign isn’t difficult.

● Any offer will need to go on a website landing page where people will see it after clicking your ad, so a joined-up approach is needed. You’ll need to follow up to remind each new lead to book an appointment with you.

Other tips:

● A good use of coupons is to use them to target specific days when a salon might be quieter than normal.

● Choose a reasonable discount. ‘In a previous salon, they did a refer-a-friend offer where the friend got 50% off, but they never came back,’ says Gustav.

FURTHER RESOURCES

● NHBF blog – Should your salon or barbershops offer discounts and how to add value: nhbf.co.uk/discounts

● For more on how to run successful coupon offers, with or without a coupon company, using Google or Facebook Ads, visit: web2walkin.com/ coupon-offers

THE VIEW FROM THE TOP: ‘GIVE CLIENTS A REASON TO RETURN’

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert says: ‘Coupons are a great way of expanding your clientele, building loyalty and giving clients asense of value. But while a coupon might initially bring someone in, you’ve then got to demonstrate to clients – with a terrific experience – that there’s a reason for paying full price next time. But remember, while avoiding Groupon and other coupon platforms sounds good, you’ll have the problem of how to reach new people.’

CASE STUDY RUNNING YOUR OWN DISCOUNTS

Laurence Wilson and Andrea Gatefield, of Riva Hair in Dorset, runtheir own discounts using Google pay-perclick (PPC) ads. ‘These ads appear at the top of Google’s search results, and the good thing is that you only pay if someone clicks on your ad. Our introductory offers givea good discount, but not as deep as those from coupon companies. This makes it easier for new clients to step up to paying fullprices afterwards.’

UNLOCKING A

recent study into the recruitment of ex-offenders revealed that 46% of UK hair and beauty businesses do not currently employ any ex-offenders, despite half saying they are struggling to fill job vacancies. Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality and standards, believes giving someone a second chance by hiring an ex-offender could provide a solution to the current recruitment struggle salons and barbershops are facing.

The study forms part of the ‘Starting Fresh’ campaign by facilities management and food services company Sodexo, which runs six UK prisons. The campaign aims to help

With the industry facing a skills shortage, is there untapped talent in ex-offenders that hair and beauty businesses are overlooking?

WORDS HOLLIE EWERS

EMILY DUFF, MOBILE STYLIST

‘Prison changed my whole perspective on life’

Emily found herself at HMP Bronzefield following some ‘bad choices’ while in an abusive relationship. Having always been interested in hair, she spotted the hairdressing course straight away and enrolled, later passing both the NVQ level 1 and 2.

‘While going to prison was the result of a really horrible experience at the worst point in my life, it actually gave me the time to heal and learn about myself. It changed my whole perspective and gave me the drive and incentive to think

about what I really enjoyed and what I wanted to do with my life. I now feel like I’ve got a purpose – the courses I completed in prison have given me back my life.’

Emily says that being offered the chance to work at a salon full-time for nine months while on temporary licence was crucial in boosting her confidence. ‘It’s such an amazing thing to do. Just because someone has been to prison doesn’t make them a bad person – more than likely they’ve just made a bad choice.’

EMILY’S TIPS FOR TAKING ON AN EX-OFFENDER

● Check out the prison facilities for yourself – see how it’s set up and run and meet some of the women. They will impress you.

● Don’t treat the individuals any differently from other staff – they just want to fit in.

● Not everybody is going to want to talk about their crimes. Only the manager knew about my criminal record when I worked in the salon– I found it easier and appreciated them not disclosing my past to fellow employees.

remove the perceived barriers associated with the employment of ex-offenders – something Caroline is keen to highlight.

‘I think the majority of salon owners will be surprised to learn that there are barbershops and salons operating within the prison system where prisoners are currently training to achieve the same qualifications as candidates learning in colleges and through training providers,’ she says.

Salon services

One of those facilities is HMP Bronzefield – a private adult and young offender female prison in Surrey – where inmates can sign up for various academic and vocational courses, including hair, beauty and barbering. Those who choose to enrol on the courses can go on to complete NVQ levels 1 and 2 in hair or beauty and level 2 in barbering. The inmates learn their trades working each day in the prison’s salon, which has hair stations, massage beds, nail stations and a pedicure chair.

‘We’ve got 16 prisoners working in the salon at present,’ says Rachel Hutt,

AT HMP BRONZEFIELD IN THE LAST 12 MONTHS

11 LEARNERS HAVE COMPLETED LEVEL 2 BEAUTY QUALIFICATIONS

9 5 LEARNERS HAVE COMPLETED LEVEL 1 HAIR QUALIFICATIONS

LEARNERS HAVE COMPLETED LEVEL 2 BARBERING QUALIFICATIONS

Learners at the salon in HMP Bronzefield

the curriculum lead at Bronzefield. ‘We run the prison salon just as we would a salon on the outside – this means the ladies have to be at work on time each day, in their salon uniforms, ready for their clients who have booked in.’

Rachel explains that while the clientele at the Bronzefield salon consists solely of other inmates, once a month prison staff can also book into the salon. ‘Some of the male officers have been really helpful,’ says Rachel. ‘They’ve come forward to have their beards trimmed specifically by those who are on the barbering course.’

Quality learning

Rachel highlights that the prison courses are Ofsted-inspected and the work is checked by external verifiers once a year. ‘Because they’re working in the salon five days a week, we can condense the course, but their qualifications are no different from if they walked out of college.’

She also points out that the products used in the salon are brands such as L’Oréal and Dermalogica to ensure that the inmates are trained to a high standard in professional products

RESOURCES

– something they can highlight when applying for jobs on the outside.

Behind bars

Rachel stresses that tutors don’t feel threatened in any way as staff carry a radio with an alarm and there’s a general alarm in the salon. ‘You always feel safe. No equipment is shared between each learner and at the end of each day there are tool checks for both hair and beauty.’

THE SODEXO STUDY FOUND:

61%

of British business leaders say they anticipate hiring ex-offenders in the year ahead

When asked about their concerns about hiring ex-offenders:

1 /4 were worried employees would reoffend

When asked what would encourage them to hire ex-offenders:

22% suggested there should be a government initiative to incentivise businesses

● For more information on Sodexo’s ‘Starting Fresh’ online hub for employers, go to uk.sodexo.com/ StartingFresh suggested an initiative giving businesses a target for hiring ex-offenders

While no day is ever the same for Rachel, she says she loves teaching the women and providing them with valuable skills. However, a challenge faced by Rachel and the inmates looking for jobs on release is finding salons to take them on.

Some ex-inmates have taken an

1 / 5

alternative option by becoming mobile hair stylists, which is what former inmate Emily Duff (see her story on page 33 ) now does. ‘Emily has made a fantastic hairdresser,’ says Rachel. ‘She was a natural, raw talent from the start, and it was great to see her progress and go on this personal journey with her.’

A hair and beauty tutor teaching at the salon in HMP Peterborough

Ten tips for introducing new products and services in your salon or barbershop.

WORDS LÉA SURUGUE

In a climate of rising energy and business costs and declining consumer confidence, the hair and beauty industry is plagued by uncertainty. The NHBF’s latest State of the Industry report showed that 19% of businesses were making either a small or a substantial loss. To stay afloat, innovation is key. Doing retail right and introducing new products and services can make all the difference, allowing salons to enhance clients’ experience.

So, how can a salon ‘retail well’? Are there good practices to follow when introducing new products and services? We look at top tips from salon owners and experts.

1DON’T THINK OF RETAIL AS AN ADD-ON – BUILD YOUR SALON AROUND IT

Successful salons view retail not just as an extra source of revenue but as fully part of the client’s experience. Ideally, products should be presented throughout the consultation, educating clients about their value and how they should be used – not in a rush right at the end, when they are about to pay. ‘The salon needs to be built around retail,’ says Chris Amos, founder and owner of Chapters Hair Company in Bromsgrove. ‘It’s the driving force behind the client’s journey and shouldn’t be seen as an afterthought.’

ARE LIMITED PRODUCTS AND SERVICES A GOOD IDEA?

Steve Hilliard, director of Steve Hilliard Salon Coaching, says: ‘Limited products can be great as they give the client a small choice of retail products that stylists can easily narrow down further for each client.

‘You can offer limited services at a reduced price for a short period, offering to a newly qualified or a new stylist can give them a good starting point, but take control of the time frame. If it works then roll it out again for a short period.

’Most importantly, run added-value services: offer a free £10 treatment that only costs you around 45p. This could become a regular treatment for your client which starts to increase your average bill and, in turn, your profits!’

2

INVEST IN BRANDS THAT REFLECT YOUR VALUES AND IN PRODUCTS YOU BELIEVE IN

Salons will be much less successful at selling retail if the owners and staff don’t believe in the products, or if the brands’ values don’t align with their own values. As Chloe Barlow, owner of Image Beauty and Clinic in Southendon-Sea, puts it: ‘The products we offer are chosen because they are ecofriendly and made in the UK with natural ingredients and essential oils. This reflects our values and how we work in the salon.’

Janet Brunskill, owner of Park Row Hair and Beauty in West Yorkshire, agrees. Her salon has just become an ambassador for Keune, a brand she has been using for colour for the past 20 years. ‘I love the ethos of the company – they are forward-thinking and are always looking at ways to help the environment,’ she says. ‘They are a family firm and it just feels right.’

3

MAKE SPACE FOR CLIENT FEEDBACK AND LISTEN TO THEIR PREFERENCES

Talk to clients and make sure their preferences are taken into account. ‘We try the products on ourselves to make sure they are a good fit,’ says Chloe. ‘Clients will ask us about the products we use and comment on how healthy our skin looks, and that can get the conversation going to tell them about the products. Sometimes we allow them to take a

sample to test before they come back and buy the product. We have built trust, and because they trust us they feel comfortable asking for recommendations.’

4

REFRESH YOUR OFFER BUT STAY CONSISTENT

Refreshing the product range helps excite the team and keep the stylists focused on the products. However, it’s important to keep your offer consistent to avoid confusion and keep building trust with clients.

‘Swapping about a lot from product to product, I feel it looks like you have just been sucked in by the latest trend instead of making a calculated, informed decision about what products you use in the salon,’ Janet says.

5

TAILOR YOUR OFFER TO YOUR BRAND

When introducing new products and services, salon owners should ask whether the ranges offered synergise with the salon brand. ‘Boutique salons do better when offering the more niche or boutique brands of products,’ says Simon Harris, salon consultant and founder of MySalonManager.

6

GET SUPPORT FROM THE BRANDS YOU WORK WITH

Refreshing a retail range and choosing new products can be a daunting task. Going for brands that offer support and training for their products can make all the difference. It may also be interesting to look for brands that offer samples so you can test the products before offering them to clients. Simon says: ‘When choosing product partners, deal with just one company where possible, and source both colour and retail from them.’

7

TRAIN YOUR STAFF AND GET THEM ON BOARD

Training staff on the products, as well as on marketing and selling techniques, is vital. ‘We all do the training and companies should be more than happy to do this for your salon, as it’s a win-win for all,’ says Janet. ‘If the staff and I love the products and are well equipped to speak

GOING FOR BRANDS THAT OFFER SUPPORT AND TRAINING FOR THEIR PRODUCTS CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE

about them, we can sell more to clients, as they trust what we say.’ Ultimately, all the staff have a role to play. ‘Team members need to take over the jobs associated with retailing within the salon – orders, stock, pricing, cleaning shelves and so on,’ says Chris.

8

struggle to sell a £30 shampoo. Equally, a salon that offers £90 haircuts would struggle to sell a £10 bottle of shampoo – the client would perceive the product as not being of high enough quality.’

10

MAKE IT LOOK NICE

Ensure products look attractive and blend in with the atmosphere of the salon. ‘Presentation is key – having shelves well stacked with all the products attracts customers and can spark a conversation,’ says Chloe. ‘And we always have one star product on the counter at reception depending on the time of year. At the moment, we are putting forward an SPF50 lotion to get ready for the summer.’

9

THINK CAREFULLY ABOUT PRICING AND STOCK

Setting the right prices, and having enough stock based on the size of your salon, are also priorities. Simon says: ‘Ask yourself, does the price point of the product work with the salon service prices? A salon that offers £45 haircuts will

COME UP WITH CREATIVE WAYS TO SELL YOUR PRODUCTS

Finally, a good way to introduce new products and be successful at retail can be to come up with packages that are linked to service. ‘Banding shampoo, conditioner and treatment works really well if you apply a discount to the pack and link it to a service. For example, a “colour-save pack” could be sold with a service to reduce colour fade,’ says Simon. ‘A “volume pack” for fine hair could be sold with a cut and blow dry for clients who have concerns about volume.’

RESOURCES

● NHBF blog – Make your salon and barbershop staff retail savvy: nhbf.co.uk/retail-savvy

● NHBF blog – Prices, retail and profits in your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/prices-retail

When you’re busy running a salon, it can be difficult to find time to deal with employment issues. We’re running a four-part series to help members understand HR issues that could come up. Here, we discuss staff absence. Workplace absence can be costly for an employer, and could be a sign of a wider problem, says NHBF director of membership Tina Beaumont-Goddard.

‘It’s important that staff absence is managed effectively. Employers are encouraged to have processes and policies in place to help monitor it. This will help you identify trends and underlying causes, such as wellbeing or performance issues.’

Find out how to monitor and manage employee absence in your salon or barbershop.

WORDS KELLIE SMITH

STAFF MANAGING

Laura Williams, head of team and solicitor at WorkNest, says that if employees are motivated and have job satisfaction, they’re less likely to forgo work that day. She explains: ‘If employers are supportive and flexible, they can make people feel more motivated and minimise short-term absence. For example, we’re seeing an increase in the number of people who are off work with a stress-related illness. If a staff member has someone to speak to about how they’re feeling, this may help to keep them at work.’

Writing an absence policy

It’s important to have a clear policy that outlines what employees must do when they take time off, says Laura. ‘You may decide that people are required to call in by a certain time, rather than send a text message.’ She adds that you should set out what contact the employee must have with you when they are absent and the evidence they need to provide. ‘You should also state what contact you will have as an employer. A lot of businesses feel they can’t contact staff when they’re off on long-term sick, but you can. If someone has been off work for a certain amount of time, you should consider arranging a welfare meeting with them.’ Your policy should cover all types of absence: planned absence, such as time off for medical appointments, and absences that can’t be planned, such as sick leave. If Members need advice when putting together an absence policy for their business, they can call our free legal helpline (find out more at nhbf.co.uk/ legal). We can also send Members a template policy that they can adapt for their salon.

Sick leave

If someone has been off sick for more than seven days, they should provide a fit note from a GP, explains Laura. ‘If someone is still unwell and their fit note is due to expire, they’ll need

PROCESSES AND POLICIES WILL HELP YOU IDENTIFY UNDERLYING CAUSES

to see the GP again to make sure any further absence is covered.’

Laura notes that statutory sick pay kicks in on the fourth day of absence. ‘It’s paid by the employer for up to 28 weeks. You can pay your employee more than the statutory amount if you have an occupational sick pay scheme, but you can’t pay them less.’

When an employee is returning to work after long-term sick leave, Laura says it’s important to have a return-to-work meeting. ‘You can find out how they are feeling and what you can do to support them so they have a successful transition back to work.’

Emergency dependants’ leave

This is unpaid leave that is used to look after a dependant. Laura says that employees are entitled to take a

TOP TIP

Laura Williams says: ‘When monitoring absence, make sure you split up emergency dependants’ leave and compassionate leave from sickness absence. For example, if someone’s child is unwell, they will take emergency dependants’ leave to look after them – not sick leave. This will give you a better picture of what is going on, and you’ll be able to deal with any issues more effectively.’

DID YOU KNOW?

You should carry out a risk assessment when someone comes back to work after a period of ill health. This will help you to identify what support they need in the workplace.

reasonable amount of time off in certain circumstances – for example, to arrange care for a dependant who is ill or injured. The amount of time off will depend on the nature of the incident and the employee’s individual circumstances.

Compassionate leave

When someone goes on compassionate leave, in most cases there is no entitlement to any pay for that time off. Laura says: ‘It is not uncommon for employers to use their own discretion and give staff one or two days of paid leave in these circumstances.’

In 2020, new UK legislation was passed: ‘Jack’s Law’. This gives two weeks of paid bereavement leave to someone who loses a child under the age of 18, and to those who suffer a stillbirth from 24 weeks of pregnancy.

Measuring absence

There are ways to measure absence levels, says Laura. ‘You can set an absence trigger, which is a level of sickness absence that, when reached by an employee, will prompt you to review their absence.’ Another method is the

Bradford Factor, which works out a weighted score based on the number of days and period of sickness absence.

If short-term absence is becoming too high, Laura says you should sit down with your employee to review the reasons and help them improve their attendance.

Managing long-term absence is more complex as a longstanding health condition may require reasonable adjustments at work, says Laura. ‘It’s important to keep in reasonable contact with your employee. If they’ve been off for a couple of weeks and they’ve had another fit note from the GP, that’s a good time to see how they are.’

Sometimes an employer should use discretion. ‘Someone going through long-term medical treatment may need additional time off.’

RESOURCES

● NHBF blog – From sick leave to annual leave: handling staff absence in your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/absence

● NHBF Absence management guide: nhbf.co.uk/absencemanagement

IT’S IMPORTANT TO KEEP IN REASONABLE CONTACT WITH YOUR EMPLOYEE

TRACK

In February 2023, a judge dismissed a no-win no-fee claim against Kevin Huggins’ Norfolk salon, Fusion Hair and Beauty Consultants, for £10,000 for hair breakage and an undisclosed sum for associated mental health issues. The salon had received a complaint from the mother of a 16-year-old client who had a colour service in July 2020.

The client left the salon happy with her hair, but nine weeks later lodged a complaint claiming costs for hair breakage and stress. This included commissioning a psychologist’s report that would be charged to the salon.

‘Client records were key to the whole process,’ says Kevin, who is

WORDS ANNA SCOTT

Making a note of clients’ treatments and outcomes cannot be undervalued. Why is record-keeping so important?

TOP TIPS SEVEN WAYS TO PROMOTE GOOD RECORD-KEEPING

1 Identify clients’ needs, wishes and expectations.

2 Record clients’ hair type – classification, texture, density and length.

3 Complete any relevant industry tests and record results – allergy alert skin tests, sensitivity and client comfort sensation and reaction tests.

4 Identify any contraindications, influencing factors, limitations and contra-actions, as well as any medication or home treatments undertaken.

5 Complete a consultation record: this includes the client’s details; a review of the client’s healthcare questionnaire; the outcome of any analysis; discussions on any factors that may limit or restrict the treatment; the outcome of any tests, products, tools and equipment used; and outcomes of the treatment.

6 Use visual aids such as before and after photos – but get the client’s permission.

7 Regularly update any changes, and make records after every visit or other client contact.

also an NHBF Board member. ‘We write our notes up on every visit and take pictures, which we can store on our appointment platform forever, so the consultation was key to that process.

‘We also have CCTV coverage and a dialogue of what was discussed, signed by the client. We take pictures of the finished service and if the service (as it was in this case) is promoted on social media, we take snapshots of that as well.

‘We won because of the records that we keep on our system and photographs. We could present all of this in court, including going live onto our system in the court.’

Why records are so important ‘Spending time ensuring treatment records are up to date is essential to the smooth running and success of a salon business,’ says Ian Smith, account director at Jensten Insurance. ‘Not only does it show clients that their individual needs are important to you, but in the event of a claim, the insurer can see what treatments have happened. This helps them to assess the appropriate course of action.’

Without adequate records and evidence of appropriate treatment procedures, it will be difficult for a public liability insurer to fight the action or pass it to the product

manufacturer, Ian explains. ‘More than this, however, your insurance may not respond at all.’

The first step should be to book enough time to carry out a thorough consultation – ‘the most important service provided by a hair and beauty professional’, according to Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the NHBF. ‘If you don’t, you run the risk of an unexpected outcome, an unhappy client, a potential complaint and even legal action.

‘It demonstrates your expertise and the breadth and depth of your technical knowledge. It also enables you to develop a relationship with your client based on trust and honesty, which sets the tone for future appointments. Records should be used to track the whole client journey from consultation to the client walking out of the door to them rebooking for their next visit.’

How to do it

‘Many businesses keep very thorough records on the chemical services used. However, sometimes they forget about other broader or more personalised information,’ Caroline adds, suggesting that

RESOURCES

● NHBF Example consultation, allergy alert and industry tests record card: nhbf.co.uk/exampleconsultation

● NHBF GDPR templates toolkit: nhbf.co.uk/ gdpr-templates-toolkit

● NHBF Handling complaints guide: nhbf.co.uk/ handling-complaints

● NHBF 24/7 legal support: nhbf.co.uk/legal

ALTERNATIVE DISPUTE RESOLUTION

If you cannot come to an agreement with a client about a complaint, then your next step will be alternative dispute resolution (ADR), a less stressful and costly process than legal action.

The NHBF’s ADR service, Hair & Beauty Mediation, is available to Members and aims to resolve disputes by proposing fair and reasonable solutions acceptable to both parties. Clients can apply in email or writing and pay £12 (including VAT) up to 12 months after you have told them in writing that you cannot resolve the complaint, or if you have not responded to the complaint within eight weeks. You pay £30 (including VAT) for the service. Both fees must be received before the process can go ahead.

Either party can withdraw at any time and the outcome is only binding if you both accept the proposed solution. You or your client can still take legal action, but courts look less favourably on cases where ADR has not been attempted. For more information, visit nhbf.co.uk/client-complain

records can include client’s wishes, wellbeing and expectations.

Records can also help salons sell additional products and services because vital background information has been retained on the clients. But they must be kept properly. Under General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), salons must obtain clients’ consent to collect and store sensitive personal information and to take and use images of them (see Resources). Clients under 16 will need consent from a parent or guardian. Records should be securely stored – ideally in a locked cabinet or as security-protected digital files – and kept in line with any legal, protocol and insurance requirements. ‘We recommend that a reference number is allocated to the client, which can be used instead of their name. This will help to ensure their records remain confidential, but are still easily accessible and identifiable,’ Caroline adds.

The Data Protection Act 2018 does not specify how long records must be kept. ‘The wording of the act is that

you can hold on to them [records] for as long as is reasonably necessary,’ according to a spokesperson from the NHBF legal helpline. ‘If someone is going to bring a negligence or breach of contract claim, that must be within a six-year period.’

Kevin’s salon uses SalonIQ software to record clients’ notes. ‘I just can’t stress the importance of keeping all notes – even when an elasticity test is done on the hair, not only does it record that the test was done but the results are also shown on the client record,’ he says.

Checking that all notes are taken for clients is no mean feat, but it is crucial. ‘A point has come up that I needed to check with our insurance – that if a no-win no-fee claim is issued against the salon, the responsibility of writing the notes is that of the stylist,’ Kevin concludes.

‘If the facility is provided by the salon and those notes are not entered, the stylist could be the one facing the charges. It certainly sent a tingle down the spine of the rest of our stylists.’

RECORDS SHOULD BE USED TO TRACK THE WHOLE CLIENT JOURNEY

TAKE ON

Where do you start? What needs to be in place for both parties to get the most out of it? Our NHBF experts break down the must-dos for employing apprentices.

WORDS HELEN BIRD

The first step is setting up an apprenticeship employer digital account. This can be a barrier because employers must have a payroll and a tax office reference number to do this. A lot of small employers don’t have a payroll and don’t know how to set one up – but when they have, their chosen training provider will help them set up the digital account.

ABOUT AMANDA

Amanda Lodge-Stewart is NHBF president and apprenticeship training provider with The Link Training Academy.

1The first port of call is usually your accountant, where you can get your tax office reference number and PAYE number. Once you have these, your training provider can help set up your digital apprenticeship account (see Resources). You can do it yourself, but most employers we work with ask us to help them. Once the account is set up, you can reserve the funding for the apprenticeship training and advertise your vacancy on your apprenticeship account.

2

Employing an apprentice involves three parties: training provider, employer and apprentice. The employer can’t access the funding for the training unless they’re an employer provider – in which case they need to get on the Register of Apprenticeship Training Providers (see Resources). Most micro and small SMEs in our sector are not employer providers, so they need a provider to work with to deliver the training. 3

Employers need to advertise on the digital apprenticeship system to let people know they’re looking for an apprentice. There were once many applications for every vacancy, but this is no longer the case. Our sector is experiencing a recruitment crisis and employers are finding it difficult to find suitable apprenticeship candidates. 4

If the apprentice doesn’t achieve grade 4 or above in maths and English at school, they need to do functional skills as part of the apprenticeship agreement. This is six hours a week, off-thejob training, and the employer must pay them to do it – so it’s advantageous if a learner already has maths and English at school.

THE RIGHT WAY

Taking on an apprentice is a great way to grow your team for future success, says NHBF quality and standards director Caroline Larissey, ‘but you’ll need to understand how apprenticeships work – especially as schemes vary across the UK.’

UK-wide rules

You must ensure the apprentice has the right to work in the UK. They will normally be expected to work at least 30 hours a week (21 in Northern Ireland), including off-the-job training, for example at college or a training provider. Find detailed information about taking on an apprentice at nhbf.co.uk/education

Put it in writing

‘You must agree and sign an apprenticeship agreement and commitment statement setting out how you and the training provider will work towards the successful completion of the apprenticeship,’ says Caroline.

NHBF Members benefit from free apprenticeship agreements or deeds at nhbf.co.uk/contracts

Pay their dues

You must pay your apprentice the correct apprenticeship rate – this applies across the UK. ‘Don’t be caught out,’ warns Caroline. ‘An apprentice must get the National Minimum Wage appropriate for their age in the second year of their apprenticeship.’ Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/national-minimum-wage

NHBF Members have access to a free 24/7 employment helpline for apprenticeship advice and support. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/legal

5

Make sure the apprentice is a good fit by making them do a taster day. The employer will have a set of criteria that they want from the apprentice, but it works both ways. Think about logistics: how much money do they need? Are they a care giver? Have they left home to live with a partner? That’s happening a lot because, financially, it makes a difference to a young person’s life. All these things contribute to retention. And the apprentice must have the right attitude.

RESOURCES

● Calculate what funding could be available towards your apprentice’s training costs: apprenticeships.gov.uk

● Create an account to manage apprenticeships: bit.ly/GOVapprenticeship-account

● NHBF resources – Taking on an apprentice: the basics: nhbf.co.uk/ resources-apprentices

● Get on the Register of Apprenticeship Training Providers (RoATP): bit.ly/GOV-RoATP

● Create an apprenticeship advert as an employer: bit.ly/GOVapprenticeship-advert

● Training and funding schemes vary across the UK:

England – bit.ly/apprenticeships-ENG

Wales – bit.ly/apprenticeships-WALES

Scotland – apprenticeships.scot

Northern Ireland – bit.ly/ apprenticeships-NI

THERE WERE ONCE MANY APPLICATIONS FOR EVERY VACANCY, BUT THIS IS NO LONGER THE CASE

IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE?

With Summer in full swing, here’s some cracking colour creations you’ve been showing off.

@serenehairandbeauty Broadstairs

@hairbyabigailmcmyer Farnworth

@totallypolishedbyffion Tadcaster

@totallypolishedbyffion Tadcaster

@jessmaynard_nails Camberley

Our next moodboard theme is afro and textured hair. Make sure you include the hashtag #salonfocus on the posts you’re particulary proud of and your shot could end up on these pages!

FASHIONABLE OR A FAUX PAS?

MOON SHOT

A versatile trend, half-moon nails draw on 1950s Hollywood glamour and are proving popular across socials right now. Some technicians are painting the entire nail and leaving the lunula bare, or decorating the lunula only, emphasising its crescent moon shape. Other designs paint only the outline of the lunula, leaving the nails neutral except for one small, curved line. You might have seen an example on Olivia Wilde in the film Don’t Worry Darling, while performer Dita Von Teese has been sporting the look for years.

Other popular nail art adaptions include the double French manicure, using two different colours on the tips of the nail, and the inverted or reverse French manicure, where the lines are drawn along the nail bed and the rest of the nail is painted a different colour. Two great ways to offer options to your summer manicures.

REPORT THE VALUE OF BEAUTY 2023

The latest report from the British Beauty Council and Oxford Economics shows the evolution of the beauty industry since their 2019 report. The figures show that, in 2022…

MARINE MIRACLE

How much do you know about sea moss? The buzzy superfood, made up of various species of red algae and seaweeds, is already a key ingredient in certain skincare products, but is now moving into haircare, body and beauty supplements. Also a sustainable food source and playing an important part in the regeneration of marine ecosystems, sea moss is the ingredient of the moment, with more than 235.9 million views for #SeaMoss on TikTok – expect to hear more about it in the months to come.

£5.1bn

was contributed to the UK economy by hair and beauty service providers

550,000 people were employed by the personal care industry, meaning…

Whether you embrace the trends or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

ANYTHING GOES

ANY

The long and short of it is…just that: this summer’s hair trends will either be very long or very short. Did you see Florence Pugh’s shaved head at the Met Gala (above)? No single style will rule this season, but layers seem to be key to most styles. From the curve cut’s choppy ends and the shaggy lob’s collarbone-grazing layers to the short piecey bits in pixies and bixies, it’s all about texture.

There’s no one trend dominating for men this season, either – it’s pretty much ‘anything goes’. Perms for men are still gaining popularity, with more men looking to add texture and curls to their longer locks. Have you had more perming requests from male clients? Elevating short and sharp cropped and faded styles with bleach is another popular choice for the summer and could be an option to put to clients.

1.1% of total jobs in the UK were represented by the personal care sector

BACK TO BLACK

A rep

arou black tried from app,

A report on the top nail colour trends around the world has revealed that black polish is the most frequently tried-on shade globally. Using data from Perfect Corp’s YouCam Nails app, which allows users to try on virtual nail colours and designs, neutral tones such as pearly white, sand and black were found to be the most trending. Classic reds were the next most popular colour family, particularly across Middle Eastern countries such as the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Qatar and Oman.

High shine, metallic and chrome tones were another trend, with China and Mexico showing a significant preference. The metallic trend was also reflected in the nail art designs tried on via the app.

UGLY BEAUTY

From messy make-up to unconventional beauty looks, ‘ugly beauty’ is one of the newer trends being led by Gen Z, with #uglybeauty racking up more than 13 million views on TikTok. Think smudged lipstick, clumpy mascara, messy eyeshadow, and bleached or no eyebrows – the anti-beauty trend is about creating looks for the individual, not conforming to general beauty ideals. The main concept is making a statement and taking a new approach to what is thought of as beautiful.

Closely related is ‘unsexy beauty’, with brands and consumers embracing and highlighting the ‘ick factor’ of certain beauty issues – the number of TikTok videos tagged with #BodyHairPositivity have had more than 100 million views, for example. This trend is about destigmatising issues and putting product and service names to them, discussing topics from ingrown hairs, pimples and sweat patches to melasma moustaches and pigmentation – all things beauty salon owners and staff are equipped to deal with!

209,000 people were directly employed in the hair and beauty services sector

aroundtheworldhasrevealedthat WHAT'S TRENDING THE INSPIRATION 49 SALONFOCUS | SUMMER 2023

80,000 recognised industry qualifications were completed – 70% being GCSE equivalent standard and 21% at A level equivalent standard

JO IRVING

The salon owner, life coach and business mentor on why she’s passionate about empowering hair stylists to reach their potential in all aspects of their life.

I’ve always been quite self-motivated… and I opened my first salon aged 20. It was close to Gretna Green, so I began doing wedding hair, and after a few months I was doing bridal hair for up to 10 clients a day! It was a strange set-up, but it was great.

After my daughter was born… I moved back to Surrey and continued my bridal hair business there. It quickly went from me working on my own to being one of the biggest hair and make-up agencies in the

UK, with 75 different stylists working for the business all over the country.

My work took me all over the world… which was amazing, but I ended up burning out really badly and knew I needed to make a change. It was my love of yoga and wellness retreats, and their positive impact on me and my business, that sparked the idea to run retreats for hairdressers. Based in the UK and Ibiza, the retreats provide a nurturing space for both wellness and business, giving participants the chance to reconnect and focus on themselves and what they need.

You can be the best business owner or stylist ever… but if you’re not feeling good in yourself, you’re not going to be able to show up for yourself and reach your potential. My work is about getting in tune with who you are and what

you need as a person, and building that confidence.

When you understand yourself as a salon owner… and understand your team better, you can create an authentic environment where people feel brave enough to share who they really are. And that’s where all their good ideas come from – they’re in a safe space to be authentic and feel good about themselves, so their communication and connections with clients and each other will be better, and their competence in learning new skills will improve. Everything just goes up a level, helping the business.

The main things holding stylists back are… fear of judgement, lack of self-belief, and always connecting happiness to the future when they can be happy in the here and now. I advise people to find out what their joy is: Being in nature? Music? Wearing red lipstick? It could be so small, but if it makes you happy, try and incorporate it into your everyday to bring that little piece of joy.

MORE FROM JO joirving.com and lovehair.co.uk