C O O K I N G M Y WAY H O M E
Exploring the Sunny Ways of Citrus with living in a rental house in Northern California that included both an orange tree so large it shaded the backyard and a compact, yet fruitful Meyer lemon, which, lacking citrus knowledge, I mistakenly at first called a “minor” lemon. The orange tree was so abundant, I didn’t mind sharing with the squirrels, who dropped peelings from their snacking positions in the leaves and left what appeared to be whole oranges on the ground, completely hollowed with a squirrel face-sized hole in them. The lemon, too, was packed with the ultra juicy, floral-flavored lemons. It was worth gouging myself and dodging flocks of tiny birds that nested in the thorny, hedge-like tree. The indulgence of having a constant supply of fresh tart-sweet citrus had me turning a corner
BY R E B E C C A H O WA R D
from which I could never return. I was soon zesting and squeezing with a fervor, making everything from fresh lemonade to cakes flavored with orange rind infused in buttermilk. I still grow Meyer lemons (they have a rare and limited availability in the grocery stores), which are sweeter than the more commonly found Eureka or Lisbon. I even gifted my mother a pair of dwarf Meyer lemon trees, which she kept alive and fruiting in pots she transported Rebecca Howard inside to winter in her sunny dining room. I’ve been accused of putting citrus zest in everything (almost true, but I draw the line where it is incompatible), and while this may seem crazy, if you’ve never had pancakes with ricotta and lemon zest, you should not judge. I do see limitless possibilities with lemons, from squeezing them in warm water I drink every morning (a healthful habit I developed several years ago), to making sweet citrus curd to spread on scones, to adding slices atop salmon I bake in foil packets. Winter to early spring is peak season for lemons, limes, oranges (with varieties ranging from diminutive clementines to plus-sized Sumo) f 1 pound carrots, peeled and thinly sliced f 1/2 tsp. dried thyme and grapefruit. The sunny citrus f 1 medium onion, diced f 1 large orange abound this time of year, but I do f 6 garlic cloves, chopped f 4-1/2 cups reduced-sodium vegetable think many people wonder what to do stock (or chicken stock) f 1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled with these sweet-and-sour fruits. f Salt and pepper f 3 Tbs. olive oil or vegetable oil Aside from adding a needed dose f 1/4 cup sour cream or plain yogurt f 1 large sprig fresh thyme, of vitamin C to cooking and baking, plus more for garnish citrus adds bright flavor. Just a little Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add carrots, onions, garlic and ginger and cook, can sometimes make the difference stirring occasionally, until onion is golden and vegetables are beginning to soften, about 8 between good to great taste. And one minutes. While vegetables are cooking, grate orange to get about 2 tsp. of zest. Juice orange should be open to some unexpected to yield about 1/2 cup of juice. possibilities. A carrot soup I recently Add thyme (fresh and dried, see note), orange zest and stock to sautéed vegetables. Bring to made (I’ve shared the recipe here), a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover the saucepan and cook until carrots are tender, flavored with orange juice and zest, about 20 minutes. Using an immersion blender or, working in batches, a traditional blender or was so tasty it took me by surprise and food processor, puree soup until smooth. Return to the saucepan, add the orange juice and made me a fan. salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat until heated through, about 2 minutes. So, if you’ve got lemons (or limes, Garnish each bowl of soup with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and a sprinkling of fresh oranges and grapefruit), you can make thyme leaves. Makes 4 servings. lemonade or … NOTE: If you cannot find fresh thyme, using just dried will do. If you cannot find fresh ginger LEMON: Keep a bowl of this versaroot, substitute a small amount (1/4 tsp) of dried ginger when adding the thyme. You can also tile citrus on your counter. For cleangarnish the soup with chopped chives or scallions or additional orange zest. ing alone (cutting boards, microwave, Makes 4 to 6 servings. garlicky hands), they work wonders. I WAS ONCE BLESSED
Carrot-Orange Soup
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KANSAS COUNTRY LIVING
MARCH 2020
