National Geographic Traveller India March 2016

Page 27

Intensity The alpine crossing and frequently windy or rainy weather makes this walk somewhat arduous in parts.

atlas

Kepler Track, Fiordland, New Zealand

Auckland

NEW ZEALAND Christchurch

ìKepler Track, Fiordland

One-third of New Zealand’s land is reserved solely to create national parks and nature reserves, and for people to enjoy the outdoors and promote ecotourism.

Moderate

demanding

Zealand’s Great Walks. They are basic but homely accommodations with heating, a common area, kitchen, bunk beds, and toilets. Backpackers have to carry their own sleeping bags and essentials like utensils, matches, and food. Drinking water and cooking gas are available, but there is nothing for purchase. At Luxmore Hut, I met Pat, a passionate and endearing resident ranger who gave us a tour of the premises while sternly reeling off the dos and don’ts. On his suggestion, I hiked 15 minutes to the nearby Luxmore Caves. They are a great place to applaud the handiwork of time while admiring fantastic stalactites and stalagmites. The next morning, a forecast of blue skies meant clear views around the lakes. The weather played an important role on the second day of the Kepler Track because the trail is entirely above the bushline and boasts unobstructed views of sweeping sierras in all directions. I was ready to be blown away and I literally was. Braving wind speeds of 60 kmph, with the snowcapped Murchison Mountains ahead, the south fiord of Lake Te Anau on my right, and grassy slopes on my left, I was on top of the world. The 14.6-kilometre scenic alpine crossing from Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut has two emergency shelters, the Forest Burn Saddle and Hanging Valley. The restrooms with jawdropping views are possibly the most panoramic

bill hatcher/national geographic creative/alamy/indiapicture

The starting point for the Kepler Track is the car park on the southern end of Lake Te Anau in Fiordland National Park. But due to the downpour, I took a 15-minute water taxi ride from the town of Te Anau on the eastern shore of the lake to the western shore, where the boat dropped me off at the Brod Bay trailhead. The one thing I quickly learnt is that the weather in New Zealand is utterly unpredictable. Clouds gather and disappear with alarming capriciousness. After hiking past limestone bluffs, panoramic views opened up as I ascended above the bushline (treeline). Taking in emerald green fields of the Te Anau basin, cerulean lakes, and tussock-covered montane forest slopes, I shed my waterlogged jacket with joy, the dreary rain becoming a mere memory. The 8.2-kilometre trail from Brod Bay winds through a red and silver beech forest, climbing resolutely to Luxmore Hut at an elevation of 3,560 feet with views of the Takitimu Mountains. Intrepid hikers aspiring to finish the Kepler Track in 2-3 days often forego staying at Luxmore and continue on the alpine crossing to Iris Burn Hut. But that is not the best thing to do, especially if your goal is to enjoy New Zealand’s majestic natural beauty at a leisurely pace. The huts established by the Department of Conservation are one of the greatest things about New

Easy

The well-maintained trails have boardwalks to cross marshes, steps in steep sections, and and sometimes, more natural aids, like a fallen tree trunk.

march 2016 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA

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