Included in this portfolio is a summary of my final major project that I completed during my final year at Birmingham City University. I have created a brand called One Way where I designed an ethical, sustainable and unisex collection, I also designed store mock ups, logos, packaging, marketing, and merchandise. As the brand One Way is targeting a digitally driven tribe of consumers, I designed an online store and app that works as not only a shopping platform but a social site where consumers can connect. For my final major project I will be inspired by my ‘Defect’ trend which promotes unisex, ethical and sustainable clothing. This trend also promotes our connection to nature through traditional tribes and shamanism beliefs. From using this trend research I designed a mid level high street fashion label aimed at millennials. I feel that there is a gap in the market for an ethical, sustainable and unisex, clothing line that people can afford. For the brand One Way I designed a small seasonless and unisex collection that is wearable throughout the year, this collection is about promoting slow fashion and why we should be buying better quality clothing that we can wear for longer. I wanted to be able to create a brand and a realistic business, this work included an in depth business plan where I outlined the brands circular system, eco partners and recycling schemes. This portfolio will also show some of the in-depth brand identity guide which I designed, this guide was created to show potential investors and customers every detail of branding style, from the logos, packaging, marketing, merchandise and store layout. A huge part of this brand is to educate consumers on how to be more ethical and sustainable with their purchases, I have created a look book journal which outlines how to be more conscious when consuming and all of the brands business ethics for example the; eco partners, fabrics, suppliers and circular eco systems. To create this visual brand I collaborated with photographers, videographers, models and makeup artists to create stylised photography. I also worked alongside furniture designers so that I was able to include modern furniture design for the location editorial photoshoot and the indoor studio photoshoots. The photography in this project is intended to show the brands company style and ethics, the clothing for the photography also includes knitted samples of my designs. The final outcomes of my final major project was a trend and design book, a brand identity guide, business plan, a look book for customers as well as styled editorial imagery for the website and social media platforms.
NATASHA TAGGAR
This trend will break through outdated stigmas to promote awareness of ethical and conscious fashion as well as equality throughout gender. As the driven youth push towards freedom and exploration, these new lifestyles explore casual comfort and practical clothing. Rural idylls inspire earthy hues and textures, this trend is inspired by traditional tribes, simpler times and our connection to nature.
UNISEX // PHASE ONE
Over the last 30 years the fashion chain has increased in volume and speed of production but at a cost. That cost being the people and the planet. Basic human rights and health and safety are being abused for our gain. 20 years ago we used to appreciate our clothing and purposely buy products that would last, however we are now addicted to the exciting turnover of our cheap clothing. We are in a vicious cycle of buying fashionable clothing because they are on trend but because they are cheap and poorly made they do not have a long lifecycle therefore we buy more. What needs to change is the way that fashion is consumed and produced, we need to buy less and buy better. We should be focusing on products that will have a longer life cycle and garments that have a timeless style, this will allow us to slow down our consumption. If you are buying clothing then you are having an impact, whether that be positive or negative, it is our choice. The fast fashion industry doesn’t support the workers or the environment, so does what you buy respect your values?
SHAMANISM
CHUKCHI This trend is inspired by simpler times and native tribes. The Chukchi people live on the peninsula of the Chukota which is in Russia. With only 15,000 Chukchi they are also known as ‘lygoravetlat’ which means ‘Genuine People’. Their traditional lifestyles and traditions has survived the test of time, their simplicity and generosity offer a different way of life to westernised cultures. The Chukchi people do not waste or over consume, they live of very little and make sure everything that they own has a long life span. This non westernised way of living needs to influence consumers on how to be more conscious and only consume what they need. Garments that the Chukchi make are usually from materials that have been hand crafted or from animals that they have kept, these materials are natural and are used for practicality and durability.
UNISEX // PHASE ONE
The Chukci practice a form of shamanism. Where every natural phenomenon has their own spirit, including; plants, rivers, mountains, forests, animals, bodies etc. Shamanism is a way to connect with nature, it teaches how to respect what the world has given us. This way of life teaches people how to be a more responsible consumer and connect with our planet not only psychically but mentally. Typical garments from the Chukchi tribe consist of very warm winter layers, garments that have side fastenings and majority of clothing does not differentiate between genders, the clothing style is generally universal for both genders as clothing is for practicality and durability.
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Inspired by the Chukchi Tribe and traditional prints, the prints for this trend will reflect nature and landscapes. Earthy tones with hints of blue will show through the geometric and repetitive style patterns.
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This trend focuses on tribes that travel and live a simple life, the clothing in this trend will be relaxed comfortable and durable styles that can be worn throughout different seasons. With varied climits in russia the Chucki often use clothing to layer in order to add more warmth in the colder climates. The colours in the clothing are often produced form natural resources, which is why the tones of the garments have an earthy colour palette.
Many of the garments use traditional tribal toggles and drawstrings to fasten clothing and have side openings for practicality and ease of use. The patterns for this trend have been inspired by the harsh landscape, natural tones and traditional repetitive patterns of tribal cultures.
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Key silhouettes from this trend will be side seams and side openings, wide sleeves, panelling, and adjustable waistbands.
The Russian harsh climates in Winter mean that the Chukchi need use lots of layers so that they are able to keep warm. Many garments consist of oversized knitted pieces that allow for movement and the wearer to protect themselves against the climate
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EPEAT PATTER NS
ONEGA P 174- 15C
SOCHI P 174- 15C
From looking at the Chukchi tribe there are many items of their clothing that have tie up fastenings. This traditional fastening style is easier for the tribe to make themselves and creates a practical fastening which can be used in various places on the clothing.
BROSNO P 174- 16C
ARAL P 179- 9C
BAIKAL P 179- 16 U
KIZI P 174- 15C
ABRAU P 174- 16C
BELOYE P 179- 9C
OREL P 179- 16 U
The colour palette of the trend ‘Defect’ has been inspired by the cold natural climates of Russia. The warm tones in the colour palette reflect the use of natural textures and animal hides in the Chukchi Clothing. For the fabric palette a variety of browns and blues will be used in organic Cotton, Wool, Bamboo and Tencel.
Inspired by the defect trend this unisex collection will feature comfortable and minimal clothing that is designed to last. The shamanistic way of life have influenced the design practicality with garments that have adjustable waistbands, rolled trouser cuff so that the wearer can stay active without clothing getting in the way.
For practicality and comfort some of the pieces in the collection will be unisex jumpsuits, these comfortable and durable items are very versatile to wear and will be ideal for the target market of travellers because these items of clothing are simple and seasonless.
Another traditional fastening style of the Chukchi tribe is the toggle fastening. This subtle design element will give the collection a hint of the tribal influences but also be a practical and sustainable way of fastening the garments as the toggles can be sourced from old recycled toggles.
The Defect trend has inspired the knitwear garments to be pieces that are worn over other clothing, they are layering garments for warmth. The design and style of the pieces has been created so that each garment practical, unisex and durable. The chunky knitwear, and extreme roll necks will keep the user warm in the winter months, and the large patch pockets are ideal for consumers with large smartphones.
The garments in this collection will feature knitwear which will use eco wool so make sure that the garment is ethical and sustainable. All of the pieces in the final collection will be designed to last, they will be buildable capsule wardrobe pieces which will stand the test of time.
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PHASE ONE - UNISEX
KAMA
TOBOL
SVIR
ONON
YENISA
KUBAN
VOLGA
Kama is a one sleeve cropped jumper with ripped neckline and open side, the wide sleeve has a rolled edge the same as the bottom of the jumper. The Onon roll neck jumper has been designed as a basic knitwear for consumers to be able to layer underneath garment like the Kama. The Volga trouser was designed for practicality with the adjustable waistband and large patch pockets.
Inspired by the Chukchi tribe the knitted Tobol tabard jumper has an oversized ribbed roll neck and open sides, this garment has been designed for layering. The Svir knitted jumper is a timeless capsule wardrobe piece available in a variety of colours. The Kuban trousers have contrasting drawstring and patch pocket, the patch pockets have been designed large enough to fit all smartphones.
KAMA
TOBOL
TRADE - £50 RRP - £125
VOLGA
TRADE - £80 RRP - £200
ONON
TRADE - £60 RRP - £150
TRADE - £60 RRP - £140
SVIR
TRADE - £55 RRP - £130
KUBAN
TRADE - £80 RRP - £200
The Yenisa jumpsuit has been designed for practicality and comfort, the loose fit jumpsuit has pattern panels on the sleeves and the fastening fold. Inspired by the Chukchi tribe the garment will have the toggle fastenings to secure the fit. The muted patterns have been influenced by the tribes of Russia and the geometric patterns of
YENISA
TRADE - £90 RRP - £220
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007. AMUR
BELAYA
MIUS
KOLYMA
DESHA
NEMAN
ALDAN
OKA
TEREK
OKHTA
The Okhta jumpsuit has been carefully designed for maximum comfort, the simple timeless design makes this garment wearable for all seasons. The Belaya knitted jumper has a wrap over design fastened by tribal inspired toggles. The Belaya jumper can easily be paired with many outfits to create multiple looks.
The Aldan trousers have a roll up hem that allows the wearer to transition the garment through seasons. The adjustable waistband makes it wearable for a wide market. The Desha top has tribal inspired printed cuffs and toggle tie neckline. The Desha top is has an oversized fit and can be layered with jumpers to keep the user warm.
The Neman trousers have a roll up hem that allows the wearer to transition the garment through seasons. The adjustable oversized patch pockets has been designed for consumer to fit their large smartphones. The Kolyma top has tribal inspired printed cuffs and rounded neckline. The Kolyma top is has an oversized fit and can be layered with jumpers to keep the user warm.
The Oka jumpsuit has been designed to for style and practicality, the simple timeless design makes this garment wearable for all seasons. With tribal inspired toggle fastenings and large pockets this garment has a purposeful design.The Amur knitted jumper has been designed cropped so that the user can layer the jumper with many outfits to create multiple looks.
The Terek jumpsuit has been designed to be seasonless, the simple design with short sleeves will be a capsule wardrobe piece. With tribal inspired patterned cuffs and hidden pockets this garment is practical and durable. The Mius knitted jumper has been designed cropped and sleeveless so that the user can layer the jumper with many outfits to create multiple looks and to keep warm in the winter months.
BELAYA
DESHA
KOLYMA
AMUR
MIUS
TRADE - £60 RRP - £150
OKHTA
TRADE - £95 RRP - £230
TRADE - £50 RRP - £125
ALDAN
TRADE - £90 RRP - £220
TRADE - £60 RRP - £150
NEMAN
TRADE - £70 RRP - £170
TRADE - £55 RRP - £130
OKA
TRADE - £35 RRP - £120
TRADE - £50 RRP - £125
TEREK
TRADE - £95 RRP - £230