THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPH Volunteering in Huaraz!
Made in Huaraz
We have analized in this second edition of 2012 most of the organisations that offer voluntary work in Huaraz and some of the outcoming results were shocking for us. See pages 4 & 5 for the complete story.
42 years ago, one of the worst disasters in Peruvian history occurred only 55 km from Huaraz which killed around 25.000 people. Read more on page 8.
The Huaraz Telegraph presents Movil Tours as a new sponsor!
Evidence of the ´chanal´, making the original Santa Cruz Trek impassible. Photo PNH.
ORIGINAL SANTA CRUZ TREK STILL IMPASSIBLE. SOLUTION YET TO BE RESOLVED Full story on pages 6 & 7.
Panic at Laguna 69 as two Koreans almost drown On April 8th a group of around 10 people set off on a guided tour to Laguna 69, everything was going well everyone was enjoying themselves... read further on page 3.
Also in this May edition: • City map on pages 10 & 11 • Travellers information • The first reader´s contribution • Street children in Huaraz • Going to Trujillo/Huanchaco or Lima? Info on pages 16 & 17 Regional Director Abner Matos Meléndez showing the previous edition of The Huaraz Telegraph
Regional Director Abner Matos was happy to support The Huaraz Telegraph with a deal spanning for the duration of the future editions of this year. He said: ¨Movil Tours has many daily buses to the two main destinations after Huaraz¨, referring to Lima and Trujillo. ¨But Movil Tours goes further than Ancash, there is a direct connection from Lima to Cusco and for those visiting the north of Peru, Bagua, Chachapoyas,Tarapoto and even the town of Yurimaguas (with a 3 day boat trip to the jungle of Iquitos) are our destinations. Our newest destination is Brazil. Via Cusco, Puerto Maldonado tourists will reach the city of Rio Branco in the western part of Brazil. ¨We would like to thank The Huaraz Telegraph for their interest in us and wish them all the best for the future.¨
What to do in and around Huaraz See pages 18-19 for details.
Gastronomy of the Andes In this edition of The Huaraz Telegraph you will read about the typical food and drink that you might find on the restaurant menus or on the streets of Huaraz. Some are delicious, some are mediocre and others are... Read all about it on page 14. Sierra Andina micro brewery produces quality beer in Huaraz. Page 12.
Apart from i-Peru, cafes and many restaurants, The Huaraz Telegraph is also available for free at the following hostels or hotels in Huaraz. In return for their name, they receive our newspaper available for you to read in their hostel! The Huaraz Telegraph does not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral. Please inform us if you are staying in one of the places listed below and our newspaper is not available or have you seen our newspaper been thrown away or even burned in the chimney by your hostel owners or their employees, please inform us by writing to firstname.lastname@example.org
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
The Tourist Police What to do when you have something stolen or feel that you have been ripped off or are unhappy about your treatment by a tour agency, hotel, restaurant, transport company, customs, immigration or even the police? You can call the 24-hour Tourist Protection Service hotline (Servicio de Protecion al Turista, also known as INDECOPI). Staff are trained to handle most complaints in English. If an immediate solution is not possible, the service claims to follow up disputes by filing a formal complaint with the relevant authorities. Bare in mind that the police in popular tourist spots, such as Cusco, Arequipa and Huaraz have become much stricter about investigating reported thefts, after a spate of false claims by dishonest tourists. This means that genuine victims may be grilled more severely than expected and the police may even come and search your hotel, hostel or tour agency for the “stolen” items. However, provided your claim is genuine, you should stick to your guns and insist that you get a written report. Peru’s headquarters for the tourist police are in Lima at the Museo de La Nacion, Javier Prado Este 2465, 5th floor (tel 01/225-8699, 437-8171 or 435-1342). Huaraz´ tourist police can be found on the Plaza de Armas, Av. Luzuriaga 724 near the Municipality and i-Peru. Their telephone numbers are 42-2920 and 421351. Remember, the tourist police are there to help the tourists. Tourist police can be recognized by there green uniforms and their friendly smile.
To hostel owners: In case we have missed your hostel, our apologies. Please contact The Huaraz Telegraph and make sure your establishment will be mentioned in the next edition. In case of any errors, please also contact The Huaraz Telegraph by sending us an email at email@example.com.
The three outfits of the Tourist Police
Check out the photo to the left for how to recognize the Tourist Police.
¿Porque mi empresa no figura en esta Edición? Hemos tenido poco tiempo para presentarnos a la mayoría de negocios de Huaraz y sus alrededores. Sin embargo, el agradecimiento a aquellos emprendedores que se dieron un tiempo para escucharnos y considerar nuestra propuesta. Todo emprendedor sabe que el cliente es la razón de ser de su empresa. Con esa premisa, decimos que los auspiciadores son la razón de ser de The Huaraz Telegraph. Las empresas que depositaron su confianza en nosotros saben que al año se supera el millón de visitas de turistas entre extranjeros y nacionales (según cifras de i-Perú).Las empresas que depositaron su confianza en nosotros saben que al año llegan a Huaraz más de 30 000 turistas extranjeros y más de 800 000 nacionales (según cifras de i-Perú). Si usted es dueño de un bar, restaurante, lavandería, peluquería, sauna u otro tipo de negocio debería considerar trabajar con The Huaraz Telegraph. OJO: Encontrará un ejemplar de The Huaraz Telegraph en los hospedajes y hostales más importantes de Huaraz, así como en cafés, restaurantes, en el Peruano Canadiense, en el Centro de Idiomas de la UNASAM, i-Perú y por supuesto donde nuestros auspiciadores. Tambien se encuentra The Huaraz Telegraph en el Club House de Pinar. Para mayor información, contáctenos en - firstname.lastname@example.org ó llámenos para programar una cita con nuestro editor de The Huaraz Telegraph, Sr. Rex Broekman al 975-771-602.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
An interview with the Mayor of Huaraz
As promised in the first edition of The Huaraz Telegraph, here is an exclusive interview with the Mayor of Huaraz, Vladimir Meza Villarreal. What is your opinion about the fact that the city of Huaraz has its own English language newspaper? ¨I think it is very important and healthy for our culture, in the modern world, regions with high tourist facilities should be at the foreground and English is one of the most spoken languages in the world. Given this I believe that it’s great for the visitors of our city that the can read news about Huaraz in English.¨ Do you like that The Huaraz Telegraph is free and therefore accessible for everyone? ¨People will like that it’s free, furthermore I believe that tourists and residents who practice English will benefit the most and as an authority we welcome and support this initiative. The Huaraz Telegraph must know that is isn’t easy to start up something new, specially a written newspaper in a different language in a different culture. ¨ What do you think will be the effect on the young students who are exposed with the English language? ¨In Huaraz we have many English language schools and students studying tourism. In the past, tourism was the main source of income for the average Huaracino, with the mining company arriving in Huaraz, it as dropped to second place; however I am sure that the students of today will applaud that your newspaper is in circulation because it offers a very good opportunity to keep
by Rex Broekman practicing their English.¨ What is your opinion that a foreigner has taken this initiative? ¨We Huaracinos have learned over time to live with foreigners and I am glad someone has taken the opportunity to create something beneficial for the city and our society. I hope you will continue with The Huaraz Telegraph and I can assure you that the government will continue to support your project.¨ What are you as Mayor, doing for Huaraz in general? ¨Tourism is an issue that involves all of us but from the city of Huaraz we have several projects that are implemented. Firstly we are in talks with the various tourism stakeholders with whom we have a good relationship with. Secondly we have a program with a tourist calendar where we prioritize activities and finally we are signing agreements with private companies to rediscover some of the most popular tourist destinations within Huaraz, as is the case with some of the lakes in the Cordillera Blanca.¨ Is there something you’d like to say to our readers? ¨I´d like to say welcome to all those visiting the beautiful city of Huaraz and the Cellejón de Huaylas. Huaraz is a generous city and is on track to become a modern city one day. We as local authorities have a tourist office where they can send us any questions or complaints with full transparency. I´d also like to thank tourists for choosing Huaraz as their destination and hope that they will appreciate the beauty and generosity that our region has to offer. ¨
Panic at Laguna 69 as Koreans almost drown On April 8th a group of around 10 people set off on a guided tour to Laguna 69, everything was going well, everyone was enjoying themselves and some of them were even swimming in the freezing cold lake. Then two people from Korea decided that they wanted a picture of the lake so not realizing that a step drop loomed ahead of them, they gradually walked into the lake in the rain to capture their photograph, unfortunately neither could swim and all of a sudden they plummeted out of sight into the depths of the lake. At first, most at the lake didn’t realize the magnitude of the situation and thought it was just a joke, their Peruvian guide was laughing and a friend of theirs also from Korea jumped above one of them in the water thinking it was all just a bit of fun, when the two drowning Koreans didn’t resurface they knew something was seriously wrong. “One guy from
We thank Mayor Vladimir Meza Villarreal for his time and support.
The Tumi Hotel offers not only three star class nights, it also has a bar, cafe and a restaurant where all visitors of Huaraz are welcome. New: El Tumi Spa: massage, jacuzzi, facial and body treatments. Everything you need after a exhausting hike or climb.
Holland saved my life” recalled one of the Koreans as he described how he was pulled out of the lake, shaken with his lips turned completely blue. “It’s just the fear; I mean we are ashamed, we almost died. We were trying to take a photo in the rain, went into the lake gradually but all of a sudden there was a steep drop, we almost drowned and it was very scary. Some people thought it was funny, like it was a joke but it wasn’t a joke it was very serious. We just want to forget about the whole thing, everyone keeps asking ‘what happened?’ ‘Are you ok?’ but we just want to forget, we almost died.” He explained the morning after, still very much in shock about the events that had unfolded on the previous day. I asked if they had been to the hospital “No, there was a person from Switzerland who helped us with some emergency treatment” he replied. On this occasion it looks as if our two Korean friends were lucky and they would like to thank all of those involved in the rescue. It just shows you what can happen in the harsh terrains around Huaraz if you let your attention slip for just a second. We would like to respect their rights to privacy by not printing their names as requested.
What the laguna 69 looks like
4 List of volunteer opportunities around Huaraz There are many volunteering opportunities in the Huaraz area, below is a rough guide of what you can expect to pay and what you can expect to see in return for your contribution. If you’re thinking of volunteering in the Huaraz area for anything from a few days to a few months hopefully this page can help you decide. From small grass roots operations to what looks like multi national corporate organizations, Huaraz and its surrounding areas have quite a lot to offer on the volunteering front. Note: all information was correct at the time of writing. Prices, projects and conditions etc. are subject to change as is any information gained from the website of each organization. The Huaraz Telegraph accepts no responsibly as a result of these potential changes. Seeds of Hope – Founded in 2007 by Yury Chavez and 3 others, Seeds of Hope is an organization that focuses on providing opportunities to the poorer children of Huaraz. They currency have a school in Huaraz which last year housed 50 children, some of whom came to the school themselves seeking help and an education. Having been to the school myself I was greeted by the children who were clearly happy to be there, nutritious food was provided to them and they all brushed their teeth before leaving the school. I talked with Yury who said “the most important thing for Seeds is that we want to break the poverty barrier through
Volunteering options by Trevor Eagleson
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
education”. Seeds of Hope are currently asking for a donation of $200 per month to volunteer which they say is used for food and material for the children as well as the rent for the school grounds. Accommodation is available at their volunteer house for around S/. 500 per month per single person but if you’d rather look for your own accommodation they said that was ok as well. Although I sent them an e-mail under a different name asking if I could make a one time donation of $250 and look for my own accommodation to volunteer with them and received no reply. When the children leave the school, Yury states that it’s still very much a priority to aid their development through the Peruvian school system by supplying school materials and uniforms if needed. He added: “our long term goal is to see the children develop and give them as many opportunities as possible. We’re giving them what they need and we feel proud and happy about it”. Respons – A self proclaimed “for profit business” Respons prides itself on sustainable tourism which also offers the possibility to work in the Huascarán National Park, teaching English or helping with building improved kitchen facilities in the community of Vicos. We enquired about the costs of teaching English in Vicos for a period of 6 months and living with a local family in the village. “Normally the costs are around 12 - 15 USD per night (including food, no transport), but for a long stay like this we should talk to the local school and see what they can arrange for, maybe someone from the school or parents can host you. I am sure we will find some cheaper solution.”
A volunteer teaching at Andean Alliance
Bruce Peru – Based in Trujillo and formed in 2001, Bruce ‘Peru’ are now working in Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile, Argentina, Brazil and Venezuela. I have been informed that they have left Huaraz in 2008 but they still mention Huaraz on their website as one of their volunteer bases. Plus I have sent them an email under a different name asking them about volunteering in Huaraz to which they replied with an email detailing their volunteering accommodation facilities with no mention of no longer working in Huaraz. Bruce Peru asks for payment of $580 per month to volunteer, with small discounts available if you stay for six months or more. The volunteer fee does not include food as listed on their website (bruceperu.org) “We also help organize daily lunch & dinner at 2 restaurants within the volunteer complex @ about $2 per meal (*the cost of meals and transport to our projects – S/1 each way – are not included in the volunteer fee).” Included in the price is three hours of Spanish lessons per week, Cable TV, internet access or wifi if you have your own computer and use of a telephone. The organization specializes on giving the opportunity for street children to enter the school system to greater increase their prospects for a bright and prosperous future. I’ve been talking with Rachel Williams, the author of our street children article who volunteered for Bruce Peru in 2007 who had nothing but good things to say about the organization. She did however mention that when she volunteered she paid “about $150 a month for food and accommodation”. Inflation has went up in the past 5 years or so but not by almost 400%, I have tried to contact Bruce Peru on several occasions asking them to justify just a large hike in prices from an ‘NGO’ that also expects to gain income from - as written and spelt on their website, “tuitions from our language academies (including English and French for Nationals, and new Spanish courses for Foreigners); plus direct payments from Agenda SOS Intewrnational Inc, our
founder and friends” as according to their website under their ‘our estimated financial requirements for 2006’ section. A section which also mentioned their operating costs were in 2005 running at $12,000$15,000 per month. It’s unfortunate that they didn’t reply to my various emails asking for more information, they could be doing some amazing things in South America and Panama but since they don’t want to talk about it, the only thing we can look at is the price. Bruce Peru is easily the most expensive volunteer option that I have found in the Huaraz area, $580 per month to work and pay for your own food and transport in a city where you can find monthly accommodation with cable TV and wifi for S/. 450. Another quote taken from their website “in spite of the large number of volunteers who have served our programs, we remain a small organization” referring to their 2,228 volunteers to date. “We normally have between 5 and 45 International Volunteers serving at any given time”. Lets take from this quote off their website an average of 20 volunteers per month, meaning 240 volunteers per year, $580 for one month 240x$580 = $139,200 generated per year, not bad for “a small organization”. This is of course not even looking in their other organizations in the rest of Latin America… yep, such a small organization. We would love someone from Bruce Peru to contact us explaining what the monthly volunteer fees are used for and detailing the various activities conducted around the city of Huaraz in recent years. They could be the best thing Peru and Latin America have ever seen but we’ll never know unless they contact us. Teach Huaraz – Google ‘volunteer in Huaraz’ and Teach Huaraz currently comes up as number one and two on the search after the ads. With a ‘placement fee’ of $210 and a monthly fee of $420 for accommodation and food, I guess using as many key words as possible to gain these high Google hits and with it the best advertising possible for a volunteer-
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012 ing agency in Huaraz is hugely important for an organization charging so much. Run by the Delgado family, Teach Huaraz offers the possibility for the volunteer to teach in a local school and stay with a local Peruvian family, often the Delgado family themselves. Changes for New Hope – A genuinely small organization run by the American Jim Killon who asks for a one time donation of $200 if coming from abroad to volunteer specifically for the charity. Anyone in the area is free to drop by anytime and volunteer their time and experience free of charge. Founded in 2009, Changes for New Hope was created to help the local children living in poverty, malnutrition, and substandard living conditions. They currently have four locations around the Huaraz area dedicated to improve the lives of these unfortunate children and their families, they teach English, math, creativity development through art projects, interpersonal communication skills, self esteem and values, among many others. United States Peace Corp. – Requiring a two year commitment and unfortunately only available for American citizens. We would very much appreciate if one of the Peace Corp. volunteers in Huaraz would contact us so we can fully write about their role here. Sophie, a volunteer in 2011 said of her experience in the Peace Corp. in Huaraz: “I served as a Peace Corps volunteer in Ancash, Peru for over three years - the last of which was spent in Huaraz as the Volunteer Leader of the Ancash region. I’ve focused my time working with 70+ teenaged youth on sexual health promotion and teen-pregnancy, STI and HIV prevention through the support of a small PEPFAR grant.” The Way Inn Lodge – Ranging from short term volunteers of 2-6 weeks to long term volunteers of six weeks until “whenever you want to leave we guess, or until we get sick of seeing your face at the morning at the breakfast table” a direct quote from their website - bring a sense of humor if you decide to go with this one. Working for 6 hours per day comes with food and accommodation. Anything less than 6 hours work per day and you’re expected to either pay for your own food consumed for 2 hours work per day or pay a fee of S/. 35 per day for accommodation working 4 hours per day with food included, all volunteering options include one day off. Semillas de Vida – Founded by the Sierra Andina owner, his wife and a couple from Belgium, Semillas de Vida is a community-founded school near Huaraz, created to offer an alternative to the traditional education model with the core values of self-discovery, respect, environmental education and community. Their mission is: ¨to empower the children in our community with self-esteem,
by Trevor Eagleson
A quote taken from Bruce´s website “in spite of the large number of volunteers who have served our programs, we remain a small organization” referring to their 2,228 volunteers to date. “We normally have between 5 and 45 International Volunteers serving at any given time”, lets take from this quote off their website an average of 20 volunteers per month, meaning 240 volunteers per year, $580 for one month 240x$580 = $139,200 generated per year, not bad for “a small organization”. This is of course not even looking in their other organizations in the rest of Latin America… yep, such a small organization. curiosity, a connection to those around them and the natural environment, while providing the educational tools they need to succeed in whatever they choose to do in life.¨ Volunteers can contact Semillas de Vida by writing to email@example.com or just take combi number 15 to Unchus (not to Marian!). Volunteering involves working in their organic garden or in their school and lasts around six hours per day but the best part – volunteering is FREE. Long term volunteers of a couple of months or more can also expect free accommodation and they even have a paid teaching position which is currently filled by the Belgian Olivier. Andean Alliance – Located 12km outside of Huaraz via the Wilcahuain road and founded by a Canadian couple, Andean Alliance has been working for seven years within the community around the area and is currently developing a project called ‘El Centro de Desarrollo de Yurac Yacu’. The project consists of a classroom for young children, 3-5 years of age. A second room which is outfitted with donated computers and they are building a library for the local community as well. Also in the pipeline are courses for developing leadership and self-esteem skills, guiding skills and practical applications for the inhabitants of the local community. Short and long term volunteers are needed with a functional level of Spanish and a skill to offer Andean Alliance, long term volunteers receive free food and accommodation while short term volunteers can expect to pay the reasonable amount of S/. 20 per day to cover food and accommodation at their Inn.
New things spark new ideas, creativity and possibilities with changesfornewhope.org
We also found volunteering options at socialwellbeing.org, turmanye.org and stichtingweeskind.nl with hopefully more details to follow next month. We are not going to tell you which organization you should or should not volunteer for, everyone is free to do their own research and decide which organization is best suited for them. If you believe in the project and can afford the fees, why not choose one of the volunteer options asking for a large fee per month? On the other hand if you’d rather volunteer for one of the organizations asking for not much more than your time and efforts in return, we wish you all the luck and enjoyment in the world.
The most important thing in your volunteer experience is that you enjoy it and the money that to do pay or donate is going to benefit those who need it most and not so the owners of the organization can buy a second home in Lima. If you do come across an organization where you feel your fee is not being spent as it should be or if you simply have had a bad experience with a host family or volunteer placement please let us know about it at firstname.lastname@example.org. Ending on a positive note, if you have experienced another volunteer organization that we have missed and want to give others the opportunity to work with them, please be in contact at the same address and we’ll make sure they get a positive mention in our next edition.
THE LAZY DOG INN
Adobe Cabins with fireplaces and Central Lodge Freshly prepared meals Woodheated sauna and outdoor firepit Composting toilets and waste recycling Family owned and trained horses for guided trips Birds, treks and 5 valleys Walking access to great boulders Andean Alliance NGO for community projects: www.andeanalliance.org
At 3650 mtrs A SUSTAINABLE LODGE 1/2 HOUR FROM HUARAZ 943789330 / 971448314/#974606 www.thelazydoginn.com
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
by Rex Broekman
Santa Cruz Trek still a mess Parties hopefully getting closer to resolve the unfortunate situation
Martin Salvador was an expeditionary on the 10th of February earlier this year who tried to reach Cashapampa via Vaqueria. On that day risking his own life, he found severe devastation, many dead trout, horses and donkeys. In the previous edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we informed our readers about the following: According to Clodoaldo Figueroa Blas representing the SERNANP – National Park Huascaran, ¨it will take at least two months to clear the damage that has been caused by a landslide destroying the Hatuncocha Lake, creating a sea of mud. The damage does not only affect the tourists, it has also made many communities uncertain about their future living in the valley. Additionally he stressed that the National Park Huarscaran is not responsible for clearing the damage, as nearly all tourist agencies imply. “Tourist agencies are the first to point the finger at us but in all those years not one agency has contributed to the conservation of the National Park Huascaran. All they care about is money.” On February 8th this year, torrential rainstorms caused the breakthrough of a
higher lying lake resulting in the fact that the lake Arteson Bajo overflowed which filled the bigger Hatuncocha Lake causing the collapse of another embankment, filling the valley of Santa Cruz with a sea of mud making the original Santa Cruz trek impossible. Roads, bridges, farms and even two electric plants were also destroyed. One month later we thought we should visit an agency and the National Park Huascaran for an update.
An agency´s opinion The Huaraz Telegraph had an interview with Exploring Peru, one of the many tourist agencies that flourish in Huaraz to discuss the state of the National Park Huascaran after the recent devastating landslide. Victor Saenz Huerza, who is the general director of Exploring Peru said the following: “What happened is a natural disaster for all those involved, referring to the National Park, the villagers and the agencies. We have had meetings with the Asociación De Auxiliares de Alta Montaña de Cashapampa, a group of local villagers who offer muleteers, porters and cooks for the Santa Cruz trek and they are at the
Signs on the Santa Cruz trek
moment trying to restore some of the roads and bridges around Cashapampa. In addition we have been to meetings with the National Park Huascaran where we (meaning all agencies) have claimed or requested economic support to repair the damage and consequently the reopening of the original trek. The National Park Huascaran told us that there was no budget to remove the debris caused by the landslide. 85% of the entrance fee goes straight to Lima and the other 15% goes to the Assistants’ Association of Mountaineering in Cashapampa. We have also spoken with the Mayor of the District of Santa Cruz and in his opin-
Hi to everyone and welcome to the city of Huaraz.
ion the NPH should contribute. The Assistants’ Association of Mountaineering is happy to help as well in return for materials and food. They have already restored some of the roads in order to rescue their animals. We have always stressed to the National Park Huascaran (SERNANP) that they should invest in infrastructure in the park. They keep hammering on the fact that there is no money in Huaraz, everything goes to Lima”. He went on: “The Park is responsible for the toilet facilities but the facilities are simply not there anymore. They have constructed toilets but there were no facilities to wash your hands for example. In the end, the cows and donkeys were
March 22nd 2012
My name is Lucho and I am from the south of Peru. I would like to explain to you how the story of the 13 Buhos (owls) and Lucho´s beers started. At the end of the 90´s I came to Huaraz to work in agriculture and had not planned to stay here in the city. Due to the decent weather and the friendliness of locals and new friends I decided to stay. By coincidence I was offered the possibility of opening a bar, a decision that made me happy because I really adore beer, which brings me to another little story. My friends motivated me to enter the beer business and as soon as I created my first beer, customers of 13 Buhos liked it so much that I started to sell it. Lucho´s beer is now my most pupular beer. Nowadays I make 5 different beers with ingredients found in our own Andes. The beer is completely natural, as there are no added chemicals. I would kindly like to invite you to come to Trece Buhos and enjoy not only my own made beers but also many international beers that are imported from England, Belgium, Germany and Ireland. I truly hope you will relish your time in Huaraz and that life may give us the opportunity to celebrate your adventure in my city. Yours truly,
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Local News by Rex Broekman
of the National Park, then there is the local government who is responsible for access roads and the maintenance. We have the villagers who have lived in the area all their lives and finally the various agencies who are supposed to supply the tourists with some memorable experiences of the park by supplying the best possible trekking adventure possible.
using the bathrooms as shelters because of a lack of control. The agencies should unite with the NPH, the Municipality of Santa Cruz and the tourist industry. I think it should be possible to get the trek open and fully restored within a month. Additionally, I think the difference between a one day ticket for S/. 5 and an overnights stay of S/. 65 is way too much.” Referring to the fact that a ticket bought for only one night is valid for 30 days. Mr Saenz Huerza believes there should be different price brackets for certain number of nights stayed in the National Park. We would like to thank Mr Saenz Huerza for his time and contribution to our article.
The National Park’s response Salvador, chief in charge at the PNH, mentioned the trek can be done but restricted; agencies still offer the trek but make it a round trip meaning that your starting point (Vaqueria) will also be the ending point. At the moment of writing, villagers and other locals are trying to make the route accessible again, not because tourists want to do the trek, just because it’s their livelihood at stake. According to Salvador: ¨It will be a long process to get everyone headed in the same direction. We’re trying to make this a ´security project´ and then we hope the Regional Government will step in. The Municipality of Huaylas will be focused on the damaged agriculture and the NPH will focus on the conservation of the park. No machine can reach the carnage near the campsite and therefore everything will have to be done by hand”. Salvador couldn’t tell if the Santa Cruz trek, as
Above: The view of the Taulliraju from the Santa Cruz Trek.
it was originally known will be repaired before the high season starts but given the well known ‘Peruvian time’ it might take more than the couple of months mentioned.
Martin Salvador said: ¨the real people affected are the local villagers who lost their income, their land and their future. Should they be the ones cleaning up the mess? We don’t think so.¨
During the interview I also asked him what the role of the agencies in town was and could the National Park expect something from them? Salvador: ¨They know our address and tell us during meetings that they pay for the park entrance which is a lie. Tourists do, they don’t! Furthermore they complain a lot but refuse to do anything, even the poor ´campesinos´ (local farmers) are wondering what the contribution of the agencies will be.
The chief in charge of the PNH was unable to answer the question of how much money was involved in the project. As there are rocks as big as houses that have to be removed without the aid of machines because they can not access the landslide area, it’s not hard to work out how long the project could last for and the large finical implications it may have.
What we expect is that in a short space of time, agencies will need an official letter to do the newly reformed Santa Cruz trek and that they will be completely responsible for the risks involved.¨ As the director of the National Park Huascaran
E-mail to UNESCO As mentioned in the previous edition, there are many parties that use the National Park. First there is the National Park Huascaran itself, who say they’re responsible for the conservation and safety
As we are an unbiased newspaper we encourage our readers to send their opinions and contributions about the situation, as Bernd Karl did from Germany. He was complaining about the massive amount of toilet paper visible on the trek and wondered what UNESCO thought about the entire situation. He wrote “I will also write UNESCO about the bad condition in which the trek is. Especially not setting up compostable toilets is a definite no-go in a World Heritage Site! UNESCO has a section on Tripadvisor where they are asking for feedback on their world heritage sites”. Many people have been wondering what the PNH does with the entrance fees. The Park said that it is used for conservation of the Park but the Good brothers (owners of the Llanganuco and Way Inn lodges) said the following: ¨There are more than 40 National Parks in Peru, only four of those are making a profit, meaning that the bigger ones automatically are paying for the conservation of the smaller ones”. The Huaraz Telegraph would be happy to publish next month that all parties have come to an agreement and that the situation will be resolved and the local villagers given the help they badly need. We will print another update next month to inform our readers on the progress made or lack of as the case may be.
Brasa Roja offers the best roasted chicken, pastas and much more. For hostel delivery call 043-427738. To be found on Luzuriaga (main street) nr. 915
The best Peruvian, creole and international food. In the afternoon Rinconcito offers ´menu´, from 7 soles including an appetizer, a main course and a drink. A true bargain for budget travellers. To be found on: Jr. Julian de Morales 757 or call 043-422-875 / 944-455-956 for more info. Open every day from 07:00AM till 11:00PM and it offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. Free WIFI available.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
This month it has been 42 years since the occurrence of one of the worst catastrophies in the history of Peru which destroyed the nearby town of Yungay. While most were listening to commentary of the opening match of the World Cup in 1970 on the radio, the ground started to shake. Story written by Stuart Starrs
Could you imagine the ground trembling beneath your feet with such tremendous force that you could barely stand? Then have it stop abruptly with just enough time to get outside to apparent safety before a deep rumbling again shook the ground and darkness enveloped you? Nor could the little town of Yungay and its 25,000 inhabitants imagine they would be victims of Peru’s worst ever natural disaster. The earthquake lasted less than a minute, but measured a massive 8.0 on the Richter scale. At 3:23pm the Nazca and South American tectonic plates shifted, spelling the end for picturesque little Yungay in the mountainous Andean region of Ancash. The earthquake was so powerful that it was felt far and wide across the country causing untold damage to infrastructure and claiming many lives as buildings collapsed. Yungay, in the famed Callejón de Huaylas – a valley formed by the towering cordilleras Blanca and Negra, must also have been significantly damaged. Little did the survivors know, the quick deaths received by those crushed by falling buildings were a blessing. As they rushed outside, or to churches to pray for their salvation, the earth shook once more. From every part of Yungay people could see the brilliant white snow-capped giant that loomed over it. Mount Huascarán, Peru’s highest peak, had effectively split in two. A huge segment of the mountain had broken off. Ten million cubic metres of rock and ice thundered down the mountain and headed straight for the stricken town. As the avalanche picked up speed, it accumulated another seventy million cubic metres of icy debris. The force of the fall and the mixing of rock and ice underwent a blender-effect. Solid rock and ice became mud and hundreds of millions of boulders the size of cars.The worst part is, the people of Yungay would have seen it coming and would not have been able to do a thing about it. Projections estimate that it would have taken about 2 or 3 minutes for the kilometre-wide wave to hit the town. History suggests that the townspeople would have headed straight for the churches. It is unlikely that anyone tried to escape the town – there was clearly nowhere to go. 25,000 people where crushed and buried by the landslide. Hauntingly, only the tops of the palm trees of the plaza could be seen above the mud, and it was an image that was etched into the memory of
those who saw the events on TV across the country and around the world. But amidst the tragedy there was relief. By some miracle the children of Yungay, some 300 of them, were attending a circus in the local stadium. It was high enough and strong enough to survive the landslide and save the lives of the children. A handful of others who were at the town´s cemetery on higher ground also survived.
Pictures owened by yungayperu.com.pe Top left: main square Yungay in 1966, right: Yungay burried under rocks and bottom picture: The Huascaran seen from Yungay with the path of the avalance.
The sementary of Yungay can be visited by combi for 5 soles, buses leave every 5 minutes on Fitzcarald, just before the bridge on the right side of the street
Among these survivors was the engineer Mateo Casaverde who was accompanied by French geophysicist G. Patzelt and his wife. He recalls: ¨We were driving from Yungay to Caraz while, passing the cemetery of Yungay the earthquake started. You could see clearly the vertical part of the seismic waves rolling along the asphalt of the highway. We abandoned the car when the earthquake was just finishing. We heard a deep noise, different from the earthquake, but not so much so. It was coming from Huascarán and we saw between the mountain and Yungay a giant cloud of dust. The quake had caused an avalanche. Part of Huascarán was falling. The only place where we were that offered any protection was the cemetery. It was built on an artificial hill, the remains of the pre-Inca pyramid. We ran about 100 metres from the highway before entering the cemetery, which had also suffered from the effects of the earthquake. I turned to look at Yungay. At that moment you could see a giant wave, about 60 metres high, about to hit the left hand side of the city. This wave was certainly not dust. We ran up the stairs. We reached the 3rd level of the structure, which was more damaged, and found a man, a woman and three children trying to get up higher. We turned to the right, and ran along the third level. It was then that the wave hit. The avalanche reached the cemetery hitting the frontal part, practically at the same height as the third level. It passed us just below out feet, maybe about 5 metres away. The sky went dark. We looked around. Yungay and its many thousands of inhabitants had disappeared.¨ It wasn’t just Yungay that suffered. The earthquake claimed 100,000 lives in
total, whole towns across Ancash were levelled, including those on the coast. Roughly 150,000 were injured, 1,000,000 left homeless and 3,000,000 affected in some way.
and the monument can be visited from Huaraz. Poking above the surface are the palm trees of the plaza, bits of wall and part of the cathedral and the crumpled remains of a bus.
The Peruvian government declared Yungay a national cemetery and a monument has been built to remember the dead. The location where the town stood,
The town is now a graveyard and a monument to Peru worst human tragedy. And it is still towered over by the biggest mountain in Peru.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
A kids´ life on the streets in Ancash Huaraz being one of the most popular tourist destinations in Peru it is difficult to comprehend why there are so many children who have been forced into a life on the streets. There are, according to INEI (Instituto Nacional de Estadistica E Informatica) 3,568 child labourers in the State of Ancash, 2,425 living and working on the streets and 1,143 working at home, helping family without pay with the average being between 6-14 years old. Many of the children that we see on the streets in Huaraz come from small communities in the areas surrounding Huaraz, such as Sihuas or Huari, others from close provinces as Huanuco. Families are incredibly poor and many have no option other than to work on the streets in Huaraz to earn enough money to buy food. Many parents in Peru see a much simpler solution to send their children out onto the streets to work rather than looking for a job themselves. Exploitation is a serious problem, particularly with the younglings. With issues such as alcoholism and violence at home, parents see their children as an easy source of income as people are more sympathetic towards them, particularly tourists. A primary factor as to why there are so many children forced to work on the streets is due to the large families that indigenous communities continue to have. When parents were young, it was far easier to survive financially while still having a large family. Now however, prices of food and cost of living have
risen dramatically. Contraception is freely available in Peru but for culture reasons, many choose not to use it and so continue to have children that are impossible to afford. Child labour is for them an acceptable and necessary solution to the problem. Many of the street vendors in Huaraz actually live on the streets, thought it is not always the case that they have been thrown out of their homes. The children that work within small groups of other sellers, living in boxes on the streets or in shelters like abandoned houses. The older children act as authoritative figures and enforce the ‘rules’ of working on the streets. Sometimes, a child will be sent out by his or her parents to earn money for the family, though once he or she begins to work, he or she sees what a sense of community there is amongst the children and does not want to return to the problems at home. Earning enough money is a new experience for a young child and rather than giving away the money they worked so hard for, they soon learn from other street children that it is far easier to live on the streets and be in charge of their own earnings than to go home. Selling toilet paper, mints, sweets and shining shoes are the most common things that children do on the streets mainly because they are the cheapest for them to buy. Those who live on whatever food they can afford or in some cases is used to fund drug problems they develop, most commonly solvent abuse being the cheapest and most readily available. The future for most of the children on the streets in bleak, escaping work on the street is incredibly difficult. The money they earn is not enough to go to school
Would you like to improve your Spanish while in Huaraz? All levels and needs welcome!
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and so most will never learn to read and write. However the future for some can change. If a child can obtain basic literacy skills, their opportunities in life increase. Various volunteer programs across Peru aim to help children of impoverished backgrounds get into school and out of work in the streets. The children are approached by a social worker and information is gathered about their home life and circumstances. With consent from the family, the child can go to the various centres where they will meet other children of similar backgrounds. They can enjoy a few hours in a fun and safe environment while at the same time learning writing and reading skills, geography, science, maths and possibly Basic English as well. Free medial and dental care can also be made available for many of the children. Getting help form various NGO’s helps the children regain their self esteem lost from working on the streets or because of exploitative family situations. They are often given lessons in personal hygiene
and access to nutritional meals that were possibly not available at home or on the streets. Schools can be very expensive in Peru, especially when there are several children in a family. Uniforms, pencils, books, transportation and tutoring fees all contribute to an unreachable price. With more volunteers, companies and organisations like these continuing to help street children of Peru; we should start to see more children making if off the streets and back into schools. Making friends and playing in a safe place is a basic necessity for children, a need that they can rarely fulfil on the streets. The world they lived in taught them about nothing but neglect and distrust, being able to be among other children in the same situation as them and be with adults who cares for them will in time help restore their faith in a world they thought had turned its back on them. Originally written by Rachel Williams in 2005 for the Peripheria magazine and reedited and updated by Trevor Eagleson for The Huaraz Telegraph in April 2012.
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Advertorial/Publirreportaje by Trevor Eagleson
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Visit the Sierra Andina tap room
In September 2011 a new microbrewery opened its doors for the tourists and population of Huaraz, thirsty for a real full flavored beer to hit the Peruvian market.
A taste of home in Huaraz
Created by an American, Sierra Andina produces four distinct beers ranging from a smooth, mild easy to drink pale ale (lightest of the beers) to my favourite, a full bodied dark ale which if you’re missing Guinness as much as I am you have to try. All of the beers are available in most tourist restaurants around town but to truly appreciate the effort that has been put into creating this excellent beer you have to visit its tap room. The Sierra Andina bar is located in the Cascapampa area just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened Tuesday – Sunday from 3pm to 10pm. To greater involve yourself with the Sierra Andina beer and gain a better understanding of the brewing process they offer free guided tours of the bar with any questions you may have, answered by the friendly American bartender.
Fun and games at the Sierra Andina bar As well as guided tours on the educational side of the brewing process, like any other good bar the Sierra Andina tap room is the perfect place to kick back and relax after a long days trekking with some good quality beers, a wide variety of music and a friendly game of darts or various board games with your fellow travellers. For details on upcoming events such as live music, fun interactive competitions or if you simply have any questions regarding Sierra Andina you can visit their website http://sierraandina.com/ or join the Sierra Andina Facebook page.
The four distinct flavours of Sierra Andina Inti Golden Ale At 5% the light weight of the family but a popular one among Peruvians. Huaracina Pale Ale The editor´s favourite. Asked him to explain why, he couldn’t. “I couldn’t even explain a Dutch beer. Why I like Grolsch? (He shrugs his shoulders)” This one is possibly a bit strong for Peruvian taste buds but for us foreigners used to stronger beers – perfect.
Thirsty punters enjoy their beers at the Sierra Andina bar
In case you get smitten with a dose of the munchies, complimentary snacks are available or if you have a larger hole to fill American style hotdogs are available for purchase. Free filtered Andean water is also available to help avoid the dreaded morning after hangover and like any regular bar, wine and another drinks are also available
Coming soon: home brewing course At the time of writing Sierra Andina was in the process of creating a two day home brewing course in English for the tourists in Huaraz to help spread the home brewing philosophy and give the opportunity for you to create your very own unique flavored beer. The two day course will include hands on instructions of how to build your own home brewing equipment and practical information on brewing that perfect beer for you to enjoy in the comfort of your own home.
From personal experience of brewing my own homemade beer in Ireland I would strongly recommend it to any
beer fan out there, it’s great sitting and enjoying a beer bought in a bar or store but nothing beats the satisfaction of drinking a beer that you have nurtured into existence yourself. For further news on this exciting endeavor and to enquire about taking advantage of this fantastic idea please check out the Sierra Andina Facebook page.
Alpamyo Amber Ale Red in color with a hint of caramel which ranks as my second favorite beer. Don Juan Porter My pick of the beers. Initially hit with a coffee taste which subsides to leave a strong full flavored stout throughout. If you’re a fan of other strong, dark beers you will love this one. We encourage you to give each beer the attention it deserves, you never know over time which one will turn into your favorite beer.
What is the meaning of ‘ale’, you ask? Ale along with lager are the two main styles of beer. The primary characteristics of ale are: It is top fermented, meaning the yeast floats on the top of the wort in the fermenter rather than settling to the bottom. It is fermented at warmer temperatures, generally above 60°F. It is the oldest form of beer. Ale is typically fruitier and more full-bodied than lager.
The Sierra Andina bar is located in the Cascapampa area just a 5 minutes taxi ride from the Plaza De Armas and is opened Tuesday – Sunday from 3pm to 10pm. Tell the taxi driver to bring you to Avenida Centenario Cascapampa 1690 (frente a Coca Cola en Cascapampa)
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Suspension of Disbelief in the Andes The Young Man of the Bridge (A True Story)
By Edinson Márquez Trejo who can be found working at the University of UNASAM in Huaraz as an English teacher.
Juanpa and Fredicho were part of the school football (soccer) team and they were used to training early in the mornings from 5:30 to 7:00, three days a week. They were being coached to face another school, from another province as part of the regional high school football championship. They were excited for the chance to be part of the official team and consequently were training hard. Early in the morning of the day in which they witnessed the super natural events, they accidentally got up at 4:30 thinking it was 5:30 and went jogging to the Stadium to train. They passed the little park that is next to the local parish and headed towards the bridge that connects Chasqui with Pingullo the central neighborhood of the town, where the local business is carried out. They were going to Agoshirca, where the Stadium is located.
Readers´ contribution and Fredicho was extending his right arm to explore it, it started dimming just like the imprisoned giants and genies in the Arabian stories, which would return to the bottle like a tail of smoke. They almost stopped to notice the transformation of the specter but kept jogging more suspiciously. When they reached the place where the ghost was, it just disappeared from their sight and there was nothing except the wall that was part of the bridge and was built to dissuade people committing suicide. Then the two men ran crazily, without stopping for the next five minutes. When they finally stopped near the main square of the town to rest, Juanpa asked Fredicho – “Did you see what I saw?”- “Yep but I do not know what it was” replied Fredicho. Later they arrived at the stadium and told everybody the intriguing story of the ghost on the bridge. The physical education teacher confirmed what they experienced by saying that the bridge was cursed ever since a young man had committed suicide because of a lost love
La Plaza de Angoshirca, gracias a sihuasnoticias.blogspot.com
some days without talking to anyone. But one day, he confided in his relatives a dream in which she had talked to him and asked him to join her. He had agreed and she had suggested using water as a means to reach the place where she was now living. Water, she told him is the only thing that can take us safe and sound where God himself dwells and marries people forever.
Suddenly, something strange happened, the man turned into a type of monk with a white tunic with a hood that covered him from the top of his head to around his waist. They didn´t see his legs but saw his white monkish silhouette clearly. Both were surprised but not afraid because they were men of bravery. They continued jogging and approaching the strange and changing apparition. Fredicho, who was running on the right side of the street, which put him closer to the specter had a desire to see what it was and ran faster with the idea of touching the might-be ghost. But when they approached it at a distance of three meters
night and my wife had a stomachache that made her see death. There was a black out in the whole town so there were no people walking in the streets. I had to go to the hospital. You know it is located in Pingullo, which means I had to cross that bridge in order to look for medical help. I promised my wife and my two children to come back within thirty minutes with a doctor and some medicines. I was approaching the bridge in complete darkness lighting the way with an old oil lantern that we had at that time. I did not think of anything except for helping my wife but suddenly, I saw another person approaching me from the opposite direction lighting the way with a candle. The thrilling thing was that when we were about to pass each other, I noticed it was not a candle, but the humerus bone of a dead person that was shining like a candle. I couldn´t see anyone but I had the feeling that I saw the silhouette of a man dressed in a monkish type of tunic. I collapsed immediately.
Tamp, tamp, tamp, they were approaching the bridge silently. They saw another person walking quietly ahead of them, neither of them talked about this pedestrian who was walking at dawn because it is quite common for business people to do things during the early morning. So, without paying much attention to the figure, they went on jogging, advancing and shortening the distance to the man. Now, the man – the figure was a man for sure, entered the bridge and they were at a distance of about ten meters from him but outside the angle of vision of the last public light post that lighted that section of the town.
some years ago. The young man, who lived in the colonial neighborhood of Chasqui was recently engaged to a beautiful woman from Pingullo – pressured by his trainees, the coach started narrating the story. The couple had been planning their wedding some months ahead; everything was going well, except for one great tragedy. They suffered a car accident just some days before their wedding ceremony. The bus tumbled into a river from one of the bridges in El Cañón del Pato, Huallanca, Ancash while they were travelling to Chimbote to buy some clothing for their wedding. He survived the accident but it made him miserable because of the fact that his fiancée had drowned in the accident. After the death of the lovely girl, the young man was sad and depressed for
His relatives were obviously afraid of that dream because they interpreted it as an evident invitation for him to die. They tried to entertain him with other things but he kept quiet and devoted his time to the girl who had passed away. One night, a couple of weeks after his dream, at midnight without telling anyone of his decision, he decided to go to the bridge and jump into the river and drown himself. He thought it was fair to follow her in her way to meet God by falling and drowning from a bridge. Many ghostly stories of this type are frequently told about the bridge from that time on. For instance, remarked the coach - a couple of years ago, I myself woke up in the local hospital after a super natural experience just right there, on the misterously evil bridge. You know I live in Chasqui. It was mid-
The next day at dawn, a couple of people took me to the hospital. They told me I had been foaming at the mouth and I couldn’t speak for two days because my tongue had swollen from fright. When I told the doctors and nurses my story, one of them remembered that a couple of years ago, the young man who committed suicide on the bridge had been buried with that type of tunic. They told me it was definitely his ghost, which was restless because of the unfortunate circumstances that surrounded his departing from his short life. Later, I learned my wife had overcome her stomachache alone and everybody was worried for me at home. The place where these events happened is located in the Northeast of Ancash, in a province called Sihuas, Be aware when crossing the bridge that connects Chasqui with Pingullo at night, you never know what might happen. Send your story to: firstname.lastname@example.org
Gastronomy by Trevor Eagleson
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Food of the Andes and Peru You’ve possibly seen them in restaurant menus but what do they mean? That’s where we can hopefully help guide you through the wonders and delights of the local cuisine. Picante de Cuy (Guinea pig) - If you have owned a guinea pig as a pet you might want to avoid this barbequed guinea pig stew with aji panca, (a hot pepper sauce) and potatoes. For me it tastes like rabbit but others say chicken, make up your own mind if you can stomach the task.
Papa rellena – Deep fried mashed potatoes stuffed with boiled egg, mince, onion, an olive and various spices.
Cachitos – A horn shaped pastry filled with manjar blanco. A creamy sweet form of toffee butter.
Chocho (Tarwi) – Tarwi is a popular bean grown in the Andean regions of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia which can produce an extraordinarily bitter taste if Ceviche – The national dish of Peru. Traditionally, pieces of raw fish marinated in lime juice, onions and aji limo (red pepper) but other varieties are also available. Lomo saltado – A stir fry with beef, red onions and tomatoes with soy sauce, vinegar and chilli that they accidently dropped some French fries in. Served with rice because there weren’t enough carbohydrates with the French fries.
Papa a la huancaina – Literally meaning Huancayo-style potatoes, papas a la huancaina is a popular starter in menu restaurants across Peru.
Picarones – My favorite Peruvian dessert. A doughnut like dessert made with squash and sweet potato and served with a syrup called chancaca.
Tamales – Tamales – Boiled corn with meat and cheese that is wrapped in a maize leaf (panca) and tied with a piece of string to hold it together. In my opinion they are absolutely disgusting.
Olluquito con charqui - Olluco is a yellowish tuber domesticated by the Incas and is similar to the small Andean potato but with a distinct crunchy texture when cooked. Charqui is the technique employed in the Andean highlands to cure meat by salting, then dehydrating. The dish is a stew of finely diced ollucos with charqui pieces, served with white rice.
Pachamanca – Try if you get the chance. An Andean specialty for festivals or large family celebrations pachamanca is an assortment of meats, vegetables, beans and herbs slowly cooked underground on a bed of heated stones - delicious.
Lúcuma – Famous for its ice cream, milk shake or lúcuma juice. Lúcuma is a dry and starchy fruit with an orange-yellow flesh. The fruit is grown at altitudes above 1000m and is native to Peru although it’s now grown in parts of Chile.
Sliced boiled potatoes served with a very mild spicy cheese sauce, often served with lettuce, olives and a boiled egg.
Drinks Alcoholic drinks
Chifa – Derived from Mandarin meaning ‘to eat rice’ chifa is a fusion of Chinese and Peruvian food. If you’re getting tired of white rice, chifa is perfect.
Chuchuwasi - It’s cheap, it gets you drunk and tastes good, what more do you want from an alcoholic drink? Made from a medicinal plant native to the Andean Sierra, chuchuwasi is a herby, syrupy, sweet liquor.
Quinoa – Grown in Ecuador, Bolivia, Colombia and Peru Quinoa are the seeds of a plant in the chenopodium family which is known as a pseudoceral.
Chicha de Jora or ‘beer of the Incas’ is an alcoholic beverage that is produced by fermenting various verities of maize and herbs depending on the region, barley
Chicharron de chancho – Fried pork.
Cushuro alga – Only found in lakes around Huaraz at 3000m or more and sold at the market cushuro alga is a bacteria known as nostoc. Anyone willing to try this can you please write to food@ huaraztelegraph.com with a brief description of taste and texture, for me it just looks like fish eyes.
Desserts Mazamorra morada - Made from the native Peruvain purple corn, Mazamorra morada is a jelly like desert made with cloves, sugar and occasionaly mixed fruits and lime is added. It’s often served with rice pudding (arroz con leche).
not left to soak in water for a day or two. High in protein it makes for a nice change in carbohydrate rich Peru.
Mazamorra de calabaza – Literally meaning porridge of pumpkin.
Pisco – The national drink of Peru, made from grapes in the wine region of Peru, Pisco is often compared to brandy. It was developed during Spanish rule for a cheaper alternative to the native imported Spanish liquor known as Orujo. Note: pisco is also made in Chile but don’t tell anyone, it’s a delicate subject.
Ensalada de Chocho – A salad that includes the chocho bean, onion, hot pepper, Lemons, cilantro (coriander), parsley and toasted corn.
Pisco Sour – a cocktail made from Pisco, lime juice, egg white and sugar. Non-alcoholic drinks
Aji de gallina – A yellow chicken stew made with onion, milk, yellow peppers, crackers, pecan nuts, egg and boiled yellow potatoes.
Chicha morada – Chicha de Jora’s non-alcoholic cousin made from the Peruvian native purple corn.
Yunca de gallina – A chicken and wheat soup from the province of Yungay. Charqui – Andean version of beef jerky, covered with salt and left to dry in the sun. If you order this in a restaurant expect it to be served with corn, onions, tomatoes and hot pepper.
and cloves are also used in the fermenting process.
Mazamorra de calabaza is a dessert made with calabash (bottle gourd), its seeds, sugar, flour and milk.
Inka cola – Peru’s favorite bubble gum flavored soft drink. Try it once, you’ll hate it, try it again and you’ll still hate it. Leche de tigre – A soup-like drink made with the ingredients of ceviche, if the ceviche doesn’t make you reach for the Imodium this one might.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
What else you should know for a pleasant stay in Huaraz. Renting bicycles Check all equipment before agreeing to hire a bicycle from anyone, there are a lot of poor bikes for hire in Huaraz and there has been accidents involving tourists in recent years. You should always ask for a receipt when hiring a bike and you should expect to pay anywhere between S/.20100 per day. The better quality bikes will be more expensive but it’s cheaper than crashing with a cheap, poor quality bicycle and ending up spending a night in hospital. Beware of drivers The driving in Peru is worse than their tamales. Look both ways on a one way street, in any other country green means walk, in Huaraz it means look both ways and then walk but keep looking. If you want to see the full extent of poor Peruvian driving I suggest talking the panoramic front seat (otherwise known as ‘the death seat’) on your next bus journey. It’s little wonder that Peru has so many deaths on the road each year.
Tourist Information by Trevor Eagleson
you will need to bring your passport. We suggest using one of the ‘casa de cambio’ places to exchange US dollars or Euros, for Sterling I’d suggest holding onto them until you return to the UK because the rates here are terrible but if you simply have to change Sterling wait until you’re in Lima and do it there. i-Peru tourist information and assistance Located at Pasaje Atusparia, the small alley in front of the Plaza de Armas i-Peru offers excellent, honest and free tourist information. They won’t be trying to trick you into buying a tour or any other service like some others do. If you have some genuine questions about what to do and how to do it in the area this is the place to go. City map also available.
Changing money If you decide to use a bank the cues will be long and slow moving, you won’t get the best rates available in Huaraz and
For those of you reading this that made a reservation but instead followed the guy at the bus station to his commission
By Ted Alexander
Almost every year people die from altitude illnesses in the Cordillera Blanca. It will only take five minutes to read the following information and it could save your life! What is considered “altitude”? •2400m – 3600m “High Altitude” About 20% of people who ascend quickly and sleep above 2400m suffer mild altitude illness. •3600 – 5500m “Very High Altitude” Over 50% of people develop altitude illnesses if they quickly ascend to 3500 meters, and everyone does if they ascend quickly to 5000 meters. •5500 + “Extremely High Altitude” Above 7500 meters is referred to as the death zone. 4% of all people who go that high die from altitude illness! The affects altitude has on us: 1. Less Oxygen The higher we go, the thinner the air is due to less atmospheric pressure. At 3600m there are 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath then at sea level. Our bodies must adjust to this before we can be happy at higher altitudes.
Trout farm A 20 minutes walk uphill from the centre along Raymondi Ave, I have to admit I’ve never actually visited the trout farm but I guess you should expect an artificial lake of some kind loaded with more fish than it should hold. You probably don’t want to read my opinion on farming fish but I encourage you to do your own research
on the subject and the effects on the environment in general caused by farming fish. The archaeological museum of Ancash Containing a collection of stone sculptures, a garden of monoliths from the Recuay and Wari cultures and a few mummies the museum is located on the main square one block up from i-Peru.
Touts hanging around the bus stations Reading this I presume you’ve already chosen your hostel or hotel, congratulations to those of you who made a reservation beforehand and ignored those waiting at the bus station to try to convince you to go to another hostel. They pick up a commission to send you to another hostel and a hostel that needs to send someone to the busstation at 6am probably isn’t going to be the greatest hostel in town.
gained hostel – shame on you.
Meanwhile, you may be out of breath at the top of the stairs, feel tired and “hung over” and your sleep pattern may be affected, often waking up several times at night. 2. Less Atmospheric Pressure: The affects of this are not completely understood, even by really smart people. In some cases it causes fluid to leak from the blood capillaries causing swelling. Acclimatization Despite this dubious news of leaking capillaries and sleepless nights, there still is hope! The human body has a remarkable ability to adapt to higher elevations through a process called “acclimatization” which: •Increases respirations •Produces more red blood cells to make the blood more efficient in distributing oxygen. •Increases pressure in the arteries of the lungs, forcing blood into parts of the lung that are not used at sea level (making them more efficient). What you need to do to help your body with the task of acclimatization: Ascend slowly. Go higher during the day and then return to a lower elevation for the night, increasing your sleep-
Clockwise from bottem left: Monolith from museum, casa de cambio and bike riding goes wrong!
ing elevation by 500m per night. Drink at least 3 liters of water a day and eat a high carbohydrate diet; this makes your body 70% more efficient in the acclimatization process. As everyone acclimatizes at a different pace regardless of physical fitness or how great of a climber they are, while at altitude you should monitor yourself and your group for signs of the following illness: Acute Mountain Sickness is the most common sign that your body has not adapted to a higher altitude. Symptoms of AMS: (one or more) 1.Headache 2.Fatigue 3.Loss of appetite 4.Nausea or vomiting 5.Inability to sleep Treatment for AMS: Do not ascend. Consider descending. Monitor for onset of HACE and HAPE. Do not leave this person alone. Other things that help are Ibuprofen and warm fluids. HACE: High Altitude Cerebral Edema. This is an advanced form of AMS. Your brain is swelling, causing confusion and weird behavior. This is LIFE THREATENING and must be treated with immediate action.
Symptoms of HACE: 1.All the same symptoms of AMS plus 2.Change in mental status – The patient acts “differently” or out of character 3.Ataxia –is a decrease in balance and coordination. Have the patient walk heel to toe along a straight line - anyone who has difficulty balancing at altitude should be suspected as having HACE. Treatment for HACE: Immediate descent to at least where patient slept without symptoms of any altitude illness. Don’t wait around for morning, or for your spaghetti to boil. If the Ataxia gets too bad the patient can’t walk making the decent more time consuming. HAPE: High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. This is LIFE THREATENING. Your lungs are filling with fluid that has leaked out of your capillaries. AMS does not always precede HAPE. Symptoms of HAPE: 1. Shortness of breath at rest 2. Extreme fatigue 3. Persistent productive cough 4. Gurgling sounds from the lungs (advanced cases) The treatment of HAPE is the same as HACE. Immediate decent. So… Get out there and enjoy the incredible areas around Huaraz but take your time and be safe!
16 Few travellers spend the time to fully
check out this fascinating and at times hectic city but those who do take the time to discover the wonders of Lima, its fantastic food, the many districts and its people are rarely disappointed. With a population of nearly 9 million Lima ranks as South America’s forth largest city but step into the central park near the National Stadium and you’d never guess. Below we have listed some of the attractions Lima possesses to help you build your itinerary to have a long and enjoyable stay in Peru’s crazy capital city.
Destination Lima by Timmy O´Toole
Barranco – My favourite district in Lima, other than the recently opened Starbucks just off the main plaza you won’t find all the American brand names here that are so prolific in neighbouring Miraflores, which is why I like it so much. A quite tranquil district by day compared to the rest of Lima which explodes at night during the weekend, with most bars and discos concentrated on one street just off the main Plaza, Barranco makes for the perfect weekend pub crawl. The Zoo – Located near Plaza San Miguel in west Lima (take a combi to La Marina) the Parque de las Leyendas zoo
scription about what Lima has to offer on the theater front visit limaeasy.com, the site is currently under reconstruction but they still have a lot of very good information about Lima in general. For all up to date information on theatre listings and live music performances around Lima you can also check out El Comercio on Mondays and it’s huggbkjkj section. Parks Parque de la Reserva (Parque de las Aguas) – Home to the spectacular array
Historic Center of Lima – No visit to Lima would be complete without visiting the 1988 UNESCO listed world heritage site of the historic centre of Lima which includes the colonial architecture monuments of The Cathedral, the Monastery of San Francisco, the Plaza Major and the Palace of Torre Tagle. If you’re into churches this is one place you simply must visit, the historic center Lima boosts some of the most impressive churches in South America, with Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Iglesia de San Pedro and Iglesia de San Afustin adding to the already impressive array of architecture. Miraflores – Walking around Miraflores and it feels like you could be walking around a small city in America or Europe, McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, Miraflores has most of the brand names you will be familiar with. Added to this is an array of large supermarkets, cinemas, bars, excellent restaurants, expensive clothes stores and the famous Larcomar Mall, overlooking the ocean offering tenpin bowling. It’s easy to see why most tourists flock to this metropolitan district with almost all home comforts available.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012 minimal entrance fee. Parque de la Exposicion – One of the largest parks in Lima spanning from The National Stadium near Movil Tours terminal on Paseo de la Republica through Wilson, Colon and 28th de Juilo. Home of the Museum of Art, Moorish pavilion and a small pond where possibly the only ducks in Lima can be found outside of the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, the park is an excellent getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. It can get quite busy at weekends but during the week in the mornings or early afternoon are the perfect times to visit if you’re in seek of some peace and quiet. Around Lima Pachacamac – Located around 35km southeast of Lima, Pachacamac is a large archaeological complex containing various palaces and at least 17 pyramids dated back as early as 200AD. Unfortunately some of the ruins have been damaged over the years, most notably by the heavy El Nino rains but it’s still worth a day visit from Lima.
boosts a nice variety of birds and animals from the three major geographical regions of Peru including the tucan, sloths, gallito de la roca (cock of the rock), spectacled bear, condor and armadillos. Theatre – As we know our readers are of a certain class your first question when you enter a new city is always going to be ‘where can I find a decent theatre?’, don’t worry we’re here to help you. La Tarumba Teatro in Miraflores combines theatre, circus and music to form an interesting fusion of art forms. For an in-depth de-
of water fountains which look even more impressive as night falls, when florescent lights engulf the nights sky. Currently open from 4pm-11pm, Wednesday – Sunday, the park is located between Paseo de la Republica and Arequipa Avenue and covers an area of 8 hectors and charges an entrance fee of S/. 4. ‘The Magic Water Tour’, as it is known is currently the world record holder for the largest fountain complex in the world, consisting of 13 distinct fountains and at a cost of U$D13 million to create in 2007 we’ll forgive them for their
Puruchuco – A massive Inca cemetery located about 15km from the Lima city center where around 2000 well preserved mummy bundles were unearthed in 2002. Chaclacayo – A perfect day trip from Lima, at 660m above sea level while most of the of the city is covered in a layer of costal fog the small village of Chaclacayo is often basked in pleasant sunshine. Activities include horseback riding with Parque Central one of the main attractions, located 27km from the centre of Lima on the valley of the Rimac River it’s easily accessible from the city by bus.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012 If Lima isn’t your next destination after Huaraz, Trujillo and Huanchaco probably will be and for good reason, the perfect mix of large city, small beach town and archaeological site makes for the perfect stopover. Trujillo – With a population of around 900,000 people Trujillo ranks as Peru’s second most populous city, home to the Chimu city of Chan Chan and the colonial streets of old Trujillo. The Plaza de Armas possesses the huge freedom monument which was erected in 1929 to celebrate Trujillo’s independence in 1820 and what is in my opinion the nicest Cathedral in Peru, although opening times are erratic.
Museums – A couple of blocks from the Plaza de Armas you will find the interesting Museo del Juguete (Toy Museum) with a vast array of toys dated from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Museo Huacas de Moche (Museum of Moche Temples) is located at the Temple of the Moon and shows the recent archaeological discoveries of the Moche ceremonial center. Created by the painter Gerardo Chavez the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art) displays work of established foreign and national artists and is located on Semirustica El Bosque. Ripley – Between the old colonial streets of Trujillo, the ancient archaeological site
Trujillo/Huanchaco by Al. B. Rovers
of Chan Chan and the laid back beaches of Huanchaco, Trujillo enters the new world with this gigantic mall possessing just about everything you may desire. A huge supermarket with a wine section almost as big as the ‘supermarkets’ in Huaraz (which is best avoided at weekends unless you like waiting in a queue for an hour), shoe stores, clothes, electrical equipment… the list goes on and on until you finally give into temptation and visit one of the many junk food options in the large food court. Huanchaco – Just 12km from Trujillo, (S/. 13 by taxi or S/. 1.50 by comi) for me a must visit destination on the Peruvian ‘gringo trail’, Huanchaco is simply beautiful. Sit back and relax with a cold beer in one of the many restaurants overlooking the seafront as you indulge yourself with some excellent seafood, the ceviche being an extra special speciality here. Excellent year round waves makes this little beach resort a surfer’s paradise and there are many places where you can rent a board or even take a few lessons if required. Watch out for the ‘caballitos de totora’ (little horses) if surfing in the morning though, these little narrow reed boats have been used by fishermen around the Huanchaco area for the past 2000 years. Get up early enough and see this historic fishing technique in action, you can even take one out for a spin if you ask nicely and pay the fisherman a small fee. Chan Chan – Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 Chan Chan is an ancient archaeological city constructed by the kingdom of the Chimú sometime in the late first century AD or early second century AD which survived until the conquest of the Incas in 1470 AD. Chan Chan covers an area of 20km²
which makes it the largest adobe city in the world. Unfortunately El Nino storm and floods have severely damaged the mud walls of the city, looters and earthquakes have also had their adverse affects on the ancient city but it’s still makes for an interesting visit.
Otuzco – Just two hours from Trujillo with an elevation of 2630m this makes for a spectacular day trip, other than the cobblestone streets the town itself isn’t that special but what makes this journey worth while are the views as you ascend from sea level up to the middle of the Andeans in such a short space of time.
The Temple of the Sun and Moon – Located in the Moche countryside on the south bank of the Rio Moche about 10km from Trujillo the Temple of the Sun and Moon predates the Chan Chan. The Temple of the Sun is the single largest pre-Columbian structure in Peru, although some of it has been wasted away by those pesky El Nino rains again.
Puerto Chicama – This place doesn’t have the facilities of Huanchaco, nor the same vibe but what it lacks in character it makes up for in giant waves. Diehard Surfers grab your broads because the waves here can reach an impressive 2m high and travel for an astonishing 2km when conditions are right, usually between April and June but don’t blame
As we all know though, size isn’t everything (the founders of the newspaper enthusiastically agree) as the Temple of the Moon is much more intriguing.
us if you go there this month to find tranquil swimming pool like conditions. Bring a wetsuit, the water is cold.
by Trevor Eagleson
Places of interest around Huaraz.
Caraz (2250m) Near the ending point of the Santa Cruz trek when it’s finally restored, Caraz lays only 1km from the pre Inca ruins of Tumshukaiko. 32km from the town is Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca which is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. At 22km Canyon del Pato a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra is also within reach of Caraz.
We would like to guide you through some of the bigger villages around Huaraz. Most of them are easily accessible just by catching a combi. Carhuaz (2645m) Situated 35km north of Huaraz, Carhuaz is home to a vibrant Sunday market were rural inhabitants descend from the surrounding villages to sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as manjar blanco. They also have a festival at the end of September each year held in honor of the Patron Virgin of the Mercedes “Meche Mama”, activities include ´visperas´, bands and bullfights. The town is also famous for its local ice-cream.
Chiquian (3350m) Starting point of the Cordillera Huayhuash circuit, Chiquian is famous for its Santa Rosa de Lima festival held every August. The town hosts nice views of the snow covered Cara Cara and Huara Pasca of the Cordillera Blanca to the north and the black Nudo de Chonta to the west.
Completely destroyed by the earthquake of 1970 that rocked much of central Peru killing 25,000 people in the town of Yungay alone, it is said that only 92 people survived in the town. The Peruvian government has since declared the location of the old town a national cemetery and forbidden excavation. With nice views of the Huascaran, Yungay while lacking in tourist services has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes.
A quiet colonial style town that possesses the mineral waters and thermal springs of Conococha, Ucuschaca, Pachacoto, Pumapampa, Burgos and Utuco. Located 10km south of Recuay, the small town of Catac is the ideal starting point for trips to see the Puya Raimondii plant, the largest flower in the world which grows at 4200m and can be found at the Huashta Punta pass on the Cordillera Negra.
Other places of interest
Huascaran National Park
Chavin archaeological site (Chavin de Huantar) – A 4 ½ hour drive from Huaraz with an entrance fee of S/. 11, read pages 12 & 13 for a detailed description about the history of Chavin.
Contact info, lakes and treks
Rataquenua lookout – If you look to the east you will see a large cross over looking Hauarz that is the Rataquenua lookout. To get there walk towards the cemetery and follow the road up hill. Be careful as people have been robbed here in the past, even taxis have caused problems. We suggest going to El Pinar instead, a mining village that has excellent views of Huaraz, to get there walk towards the trout farm and follow the signs to El Pinar. Wilcahuain– Located 8km north off Huaraz, Wilcahuain can be reached by bike, on foot, by car or by combi for S/. 1. If you do decide to go by bike, look out for the dogs on the way down. Monterrey – Thermal swimming pool located 6km from Huaraz, owned by a hotel with an entrance free of S/. 3:50. Combis take you to Monterrey for S/. 1 or you can use a taxi for around S/. 5. Chancos – A lot better than Monterrey, the Chancos hot springs and natural saunas are located 27km from Huaraz and also possesses a climbing wall.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Given protection status in 1975 by the Peruvian government and declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985, the Huascaran National Park boosts some of the worlds most beautiful treks and lakes. Located in the Cordillera Blanca it is home to various flora, fauna, birds and animals including the Puya Raimondii, Cougar, the Jaguar, the South American Tapir, many species of humming birds including the Peruvian Piedtail and the Guanaco. Spanning over 340,000 hectors the Huascaran national park is considered to be the highest tropical mountain range in the world with the Huascaran peak reaching the dizzy height of 6768m. Trekking can be enjoyed within the national park alone or with the help of an agency, whichever you decide is best suited for your needs and desires. When trekking without the help of an agency you have the sole responsibility to ensure the national park is left in the same condition when you leave as when you arrived, preserving this vast region for future generations of plant, animal, bird and human to enjoy is of utmost importance. If you compete a trek or activity with an agency and you notice they are not behaving responsibly in any way towards the environment please report them to the national park, with your help we can ensure the Huascaran national park flourishes for many years to come. One day excursions within the Huascaran National Park requires an entrance fee of S/. 5, with a fee of S/. 65 for an overnight stay between one night to when you decide to leave. To contact the national park you can call them at 422086, or visit their office on 555 Jr. Federico Sal y Rosas, Belén in Huaraz.
Llanganuco Lakes At 3800m the lakes of Chinancocha and Orconcocha are situated within the Huascaran National Park and are fed by the melting snow of the mountains Huascaran, Huandoy, Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Chopicalqui. Located just 25km from Yungay the Llanganuco Lakes can be reached with a 45 minute car journey.
Laguna 69 Starting at Cebollapampa and widely considered to be the most beautiful lake in the area and best one day trek in the Huascaran national park. The laguna 69 trek is often used to get better accustomed to the altitude before setting out for longer, higher excursions.
Laguna Churup Public or private transportation takes you to the small town of Pitec or Llupa to start the trek. Quite a difficult trek at times, to get to what is considered to be one of the least attractive popular lakes in the area, saying that it will not be as busy as some of the other lakes so can make for a nice, quieter alternative trek.
Pastoruri Glacier Are we there yet? Are we there yet? The receding ice caps, would again be an article for another edition. I’m sure this was once an even more spectacular sight than it is now as you’ll be walking for hundreds of metres of where the glacier once stood, to get to what is left. A bumpy ride for 4 ½ hours brings you to the starting point of the hike to the glacier, which should take approximately one hour. Only possible with tour agency.
The Huaraz Telegraph May 2012
Popular hikes Santa Cruz – As you’ve already read, unfortunately the Santa Cruz trek has been greatly affected by a large landslide in the area. Luckily you can still reach the main pass at Punto Union where you can see magnificent views of Taulliraju. The starting and finished point of the trek is now the town of Vaqueria. Alpamayo Circuit – This 7-8 day trek is considered to be one of the most spectacular treks in the region and with excellent views of the Nevado Alpamayo it’s easy to see why. The trek passes through Hualcayan and Wishcash with excellent views of Santa Cruz at Laguna Cullicocha (4650m) before passing through Paso Cullicocha (4850m) and Paso Osoruri (4750m). Leaving Osoruri you get the chance to walk around the scenic glacial lake of Jancarurish situated
by Trevor Eagleson
you can see nice views of various snowcovered peaks such as Umashraju, Huantsan and Rurec.
The Cordillera Huayhuash
The community owned Cordillera Huayhuash circuit boosts the World’s second highest tropical mountain in Yerupajá at 6634m. Avoid the mini-Huayhuash, as it is a waste of money and you don’t actually enter the Huayhuash, just the outskirts. Day 1 begins in the small town of Llamac and ends at Laguna Yahuacocha after passing by the 4m long Cholla Cacti. Day two sets up past the Solteracocha Lake and includes the Punta Rondoy pass (4750m) with views of Ninashanca (5607m). Day 3 starts at Matacanha which
Campers enjoy scenic Huayhuash trek includes many beautiful lakes and possible frequent condor sightings. The trail passes a metal cross erected in 2000 in honor of a Polish explorer who died there and ends at Laguna Mitacocha. Day 4 reaches, what is considered to be the most scenic lake on the trek by many, Laguna Carhuacocha. With the Carhuac pass (4650m) and excellent views of Siula Grande (6340m) if day 4 doesn’t raise the hairs on the back of your neck it’s time to head back to Huaraz. Day 5 continues across the Quebrada Carnicero to Punta Carnicero past a string of small lakes. After walking past Laguna Atocshaico, the campsite of day 5 Laguna Carnicero will appear. The Trek continues past Laguna Mitucocha to the top of Portachuelo de Huayhuash (4759m) and northwest to camp below Punta Cuyoc. Day 7 sees you reach Quebrada Guanacpatay via the highest point of the trek; on this day you will see nice views of Puscanturpo (5440m) and Pumarinri
(5465m). Day 8 can consist of various routes ranging from 7-11 hours to reach Punta Tapuish. The traditional circuit heads past Quebrada Guanacpatay to view the glacier clad pyramid of Jullutahuarco (5450m). The trail continues parallel to a huge waterfall walking down to the Rio Huayllapa. Day 9, the penultimate day begins with a short hike to reach the Punta Tapuish pass for panoramic views of the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca. The trail then reaches Laguna Susucocha and continues to the excellent Punta Yaucha pass. The campsite at Laguna Yahuacocha is reach via the Quebrada Huacrish valley where more condor sightings are possible and a scenic route beside a stunning waterfall is taken. The trek is completed on day 10 with a short trek from Laguna Yahuacocha back to the starting point of Llamac. *Note that different agencies can offer different itineraries for each trek mentioned in The Huaraz Telegraph.
Above: Typical street view in Recuay. Picture below: Huayhuash circuit map, courtesy of the Tourist Police (map available for free at the Tourist Police) beneath the Alpamayo with nice views of Jancarurish 5780m, Tayapampa 5860m and Quitaraju 6254m. From Jancarurish the trek continues to the Safuna Lagoons which includes a climb to the pass known as ‘Cara Cara’ at 4820m. From Safuna you continue to the Paso Pucajirca (4600m) pass and then down the valley to camp at Jancapampa (3600m) where you can see a large glacier. Due to the avalance in the Santa Cruz area, the itinerary will have changed, check with your travel agency for further details. Ulta Trek – Lasting only two days and reaching the altitude of 4850m at the Punta Yanayacu pass the Ulta trek is conseridered to be an intermediate level trek. Olleros Chavin – A three day trek with spectaculair views which ends at Chavin de Huantar. Day one starts at the village of Canrey Chico walking to the base camp of Sacracancha at 4080m. Day two ascends to the Yanashalla pass where
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STREETS A MESS IN HUARAZ Be very careful these days as some of the bigger streets of Huaraz are undergoing their four year repairation process. Our photographer lost his case making these pictures so also pay attention to your valuable belongings.
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White to move and mate in 4. Solution on page 10 Beware of ´Gremlins´ in Huaraz Why there are so many dogs wondering around Huaraz and their affect on the city is an article for another edition but rabies jabs are expensive so I’d suggest a cautious approach to the dogs in town. Some are friendly but one bite and you’re looking at a serious headache getting the rabies vaccine injections over a period of a month or so. Be extra careful when on a bicycle, they will chase you and try to bite your leg. From experience pretending to throw an imaginary rock does the trick of keeping them at bay but make sure you keep at eye on the road while doing it. If you do get bitten or fall off your bike fighting off the dogs, visit the San Pablo Clinic which is considered the most profesional one in Huaraz.