May issue

Page 35

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Haute

N Nosh

Cuisine Written by Denis Toner

PhotograPhy by Michel Joly

Nantucket Wine Festival founder Denis Toner met up with Cru’s Executive Chef in Beaune to get a taste of her most recent experience cooking in one of the top restaurants in France. In a hidden valley just over the hill from Burgundy’s greatest red wine estate, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, there exists a tiny truffle “plantation,” L’Or des Valois, where I met visiting Nantucket chef Erin Zircher for lunch. Zircher was nearing the end of a fourteenday apprenticeship at Levernois, a Michelin one-star restaurant just east of Beaune that is at the top of the region’s culinary hierarchy. As we sat for lunch in this rustic twelve-seat truffle shrine, the Nantucket chef described the joys and terrors of toiling in a worldclass kitchen with its brigade of twenty uniformed chefs.

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