Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, May 2022

Traverse + BORCHERS AUSABLE CANOE & KAYAK

SIP: LILAC SQUEEZE

BIKE THE TART TRAIL

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Foraging Spring's Bounty

Veterans Set Sail For Healing

Real Estate: First-Time Buyers

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

Flying High An Angler's Return to the Hatch

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MAY 2O22

$6.5O

4/11/22 2:59 PM

Great investments take many forms.

At Greenleaf Trust, we invest in our communities just as we invest in our clients: guided by our commitment to make things better for generations to come.

With that in mind, we are pleased to have completed our renovation of Traverse City’s historic, former city hall building. Through specialized disciplines in wealth management, trust administration, and retirement plan administration, Greenleaf Trust remains client focused first and foremost, for generations.

Visit us in our new offices downtown to see how we could invest in you.

Traverse City 231.778.0050 | Bay Harbor 231.439.5016 | greenleaftrust.com

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YOU’RE INVITED

The viewers of Good Morning America chose it as the “Most Beautiful Place in America”.

National Geographic named its beach one of the “21 Best Beaches in the World”.

It’s the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

Other communities claim to be close to it but aren’t.

We don’t make that claim. It surrounds us.

So save the driving and gas...vacation here and stay here.

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joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 05.22 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

26 FINDING THE NORTHERN DREAM

Join two couples on the hunt for their first home. Which one would you choose? Plus, pro tips for new buyers from a local real estate expert.

BY RACHEL SOULLIERE

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photo by Beth Price

WILD AT HEART When you venture into the Northern woods in search of spring’s smorgasbord of wild mushrooms, juicy berries and edible flowers, you may find something even more special: each other.

BY MATTHEW DURSUM PHOTOS BY BETH PRICE

30 WELCOME HOME, WARRIORS

A one-of-a-kind program based in Charlevoix is teaching veterans how to sail, and helping these heroes heal.

BY CINDY ROSS PHOTOS BY BETH PRICE

36 A HEX UPON ME

No showers. No cooking. A healthy pinch of madness and suffering. When the mayflies hatch, it’s all about the trout.

TEXT AND PHOTOS

BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Does the current Real Estate Market wrinkle your brow?

Let my experience and energy take the stress out of buying & selling.

Together, we can make a plan that’s right for your needs and goals, without any pressure.

DE PART M E N T S

402 E Front Street, Traverse City, MI 49686

7 | EDITOR'S NOTE

Ann Porter

9 | UP NORTH

ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.944.4959

Abigail and Justin Davis usher in a new era at Borchers Canoe & Kayak, the beloved Grayling B&B and outfitter on the Au Sable.

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com Visit AnnPorterTC.com for more information.

15 | APRIL EVENTS

Elizabeth Elizabeth Blair Blair Fine Pearls Elizabeth Blair FinePearls

FinePearls

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46 | ON THE TABLE Turn a humble roadside vegetable into an elegant tart for Mother’s Day. 48 | LAST CALL

Did you know May’s best bloom is edible? That means it’s also drinkable.

51 | OUTDOORS

Catch a play, sip rosé, pick a bouquet for Mother’s Day.

Bike Traverse City’s TART Trail, stopping for burgers and ice cream along the way (because you can!).

17 | TRAVEL

52 | LOVE OF THE WATER

Four iconic ways to kick off summer Up North.

19 | UP IN MICHIGAN

A grandpa’s wish for the next generation.

The Inland Seas Education Association is expanding, creating new learning opportunities for Great Lakes advocates young and old.

41 | THE CULINARY NORTH Brunching in Bay Harbor; low-alcohol IPAs for your beach cooler; and a chicken soup that really is good for the soul.

115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ElizabethBlair.com 115 Springs, 115 W. W. Main Main Street Street ~ ~~Harbor Harbor Springs, MI MI 231.526.7500 231.526.7500 Jewelers of America WestMainPearls.com ~ ~ ElizabethBlair.com ElizabethBlair.com WestMainPearls.com Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society Jewelers of of America America Jewelers Cultured Cultured Pearl Pearl Association Association of of America America American American Gem Gem Society Society

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Follow Us On Social Media photos by Dave Weidner

Everyday Luxe Everyday Luxe

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ON THE COVER A Hex Upon Me

PHOTO BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 2

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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 41 | No. 12

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

PRESIDENT EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Rachel Watson Julie Parker Tabatha VanWingerden Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Nichole Earle Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $29.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50.

Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

When Northern Michigan is at your door,

bring it in!

TOUR OUR BUILDING & DESIGN CENTERS

PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WE’RE SURROUNDED

We’re surrounded by natural beauty. The beach National Geographic named one of the “21 Best Beaches in the World” is on our west.

The Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, which the viewers of Good Morning America chose as the “Most Beautiful Place in America”, is on our north and east. The most popular vacation activities in the national park and area, including biking, hiking, swimming, paddling, dune climbing, golf, tennis, shopping, sightseeing, wine tasting and dining are on our property or nearby.

Stay here...be surrounded, be glad.

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editor's note

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remember the feeling of the hit. Less of a yank, more of a dead stop. I called out “fish!” to the guide who was busy helping another angler reel in a 12-inch brown, but then, embarrassed, I turned back to the river. I tugged. As the fly rod bowed deeply and nothing budged, I thought, “Oh. Rock.”

But then the rock shot across the riffles and dove for an undercut. It was fish on. Really big fish on.

I’m not an angler—it’s not in my blood and it’s not how I spend my summer mornings or buggy, magical nights, but oh, how I enjoy the mindset of fishing. As a child, my sisters and I baited Eagle fish hooks with salami at the boat ramp.

With the boat sloshing gently against the dock, we would stare into the clear water and watch the wary schools of bluegill nose closer to the lunch meat. The actual catching was somewhat traumatic: spastic flipping, spiky fins and deeply lodged fish hooks. It was the waiting, watching and plotting that we loved.

take, and what it meant to the fish as it sought rest, then oxygen, then dove for a logjam, then made a run for a hole.

Soon it was just me and the fish in a flirtation borne from curiosity and an attempt to understand and entice. In that whole dance was habitat, rising sun, hatching flies, wings catching the sunlight, the sound of water chortling around rock and red-winged blackbirds heckling from the sidelines.

It was what I like to think of as “fish mind.”

The moment of guiding the exhausted trout into the net seemed anticlimactic. By that point it was less a trophy and more like 25 inches, five pounds and untold years of birdsong and browsing moose and willows. We released him with little fanfare; the fish mind remained.

WHAT LIES BENEATH

by CARA MCDONALD

As an adult, I didn’t fish until I moved to the North and had friends who did. Dave Scroppo, a friend, fellow Traverse mag colleague and revered fish slayer, taught me how to court walleye, how to enjoy their tap and retreat at the leech coiled tightly on the hook, and how to tug the leech along in a lazy, cheerful rhythm that piqued curiosity without arousing suspicion. The point of those outings was mostly drifting around Long Lake at sunset with a beer, but I couldn’t help but fall into the competitive spirit of the evening—not with Dave. With the fish.

That I was matching wits with a brain the size of a large pea wasn’t quite the point. It was the seduction of immersing myself into their world.

The seduction played out in full force on the river that morning. As the line sped out of my reel and the fish made for the rapids, I tugged, suggested, faked and ignored. I dosi-doed on the bank, waded into the water, reeled in, reeled out. The fish, the guide said, was possibly the legendary cutbow trout that haunted this stretch of water; a behemoth who had been caught from time to time but was mostly known for snapping lines and drifting off lazily to lurk under its grassy overhang. He said just to hook it was thrill enough; I wanted to bring that fish all the way in.

And that is when the transformation began. As the sun climbed and sweat beaded on my forehead, the guide walked me through the next hour of landing that monster trout. About why each move was happening. How the hatch was changing. What I needed to anticipate. The give and

This time of year always stirs in me an anticipation tightly knotted to the natural world. It feels right to breathe in the changing of the air and measure it against the cold of retreating winter, to wake earlier, welcome new notes in the evolving birdsong. This issue’s cover story, “A Hex Upon Me,” by Dave Karczynski, stokes that feeling completely; one of singular focus and a little madness, even, that calls us to settle into the moment and be seduced by the rhythm of the natural world. And in “Wild at Heart” by Matthew Dursum, we find a similar dance—one that links us to the seasons with the act of taking to the woods to forage for the goodness they offer.

Whatever outdoor adventure calls to your heart in this time of renewal, I hope the natural world settles deep into your mindset, keeping you company all season long.

Cara McDonald Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. POINTS NORTH Points North is a show about the land, water, and inhabitants of the upper Great Lakes.

Each week we look into what draws people to northern Michigan — the beaches, orchards, dunes, and forests — and the deeper stories behind these postcard settings.

Fridays at 6:45 a.m. and 8:45 a.m.

91.5 FM, Traverse City 90.1 FM, Harbor Springs/Petoskey 89.7 FM, Manistee/Ludington

pointsnorthradio.org

It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Senior Vice President, Investments Western Michigan Complex Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Financial Advisor Stoops, AWMA Jeff K.JimPasche, CFA®, CRPC® First Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments ® Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC® Traverse City Complex Manager Financial Advisor Dennis J. Brodeur Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Trevis E. Gillow Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Investment Portfolio Associate Shelley A. Stefanits Complex Administrator Manager West Michigan Complex Courtney C. Jackson Client Service Associate Barbara S. Shellman, MBA Sr. Registered Paul M.Client Bonaccini Service Associate

Vice President, Investments Accredited Asset Management Specialist Tyne Hyslop Financial Advisor Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Eric H. Palo Financial Advisor James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS Associate Vice President, Investments Robert Fenton Financial Advisor

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Traverse MI 49684 (231) 946-3650 S WestDr Bay• Shore Dr. •City, Traverse City, MI •49684 (231) 946-3650 • www.raymondjames.com/Traverse-City MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717

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©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

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4/7/22 11:28 AM

Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

Abigail and Justin Davis, owners of Borchers Canoe & Kayak

PASSING THE PADDLE

by CARLY SIMPSON

Abigail and Justin Davis usher in a new era at Borchers Canoe & Kayak, the beloved B&B and outfitter on the Au Sable.

F

photo by Dave Weidner

or years, abigail davis and her family made the four-hour drive from their home in Fort Wayne, Indiana, to Grayling, Michigan. The destination: Borchers Canoe & Kayak.

The trips to the riverside B&B began in high school, and like so many others, “We loved it so much it became an annual tradition,” Abigail says. More than a decade later, Abigail and her husband Justin still make the trek to Borchers; only now, it’s home, and it’s just a walk across the lawn.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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4/4/22 7:09 PM

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601 E Eighth St, Traverse City

Borchers has been a destination for paddlers on the Au Sable for nearly 90 years, since opening in Grayling in 1936. The business has only passed hands four times, with its most recent owners, Mark and Cheri Hunter, running it for 30 years. Abigail and Justin got to know the Hunters on their yearly visits, and when Mark and Cheri were ready to retire, the Davises knew they wanted to steer the boat. The purchase was finalized in December 2021 and the couple has been settling into their role as innkeepers over the winter.

Guests know the charm of the place, but if you haven’t visited before, picture this: a quaint, four-room B&B tucked on nearly two acres with 130 feet of water frontage and an on-site livery. The two larger rooms overlook the river and each has a second-story balcony that’s a treat on warm evenings. There’s a big yard with picnic tables and fire pits. Breakfasts are served family-style, the table set in front of a wood-burning fireplace. You can spend a few hours paddling then walk six blocks to downtown and grab a bite or brew. “It’s a nice little getaway,” Justin says. “Hit the river and nearby Hartwick Pines State Park.

Then take a day trip to Traverse City or Mackinac Island.”

If you don’t want to spend the night but are looking for a beautiful paddling day trip, Justin and Abigail recommend the eight-mile stretch between Borchers and Burtons Landing. It takes between two and twoand-a-half hours to paddle, is very family-friendly and it’s easy to stop along the way for a picnic or to use the restroom. The Borchers team will pick you up at the end and take you back to your car. There are plenty of options for longer paddles, including multi-night camping trips, too.

“It’s been a lot of fun,” Abigail says.

“We were just talking the other night about the guests that we’ve had so far.

You know, we are lucky enough to meet people from all different walks of life and all different places. It’s so interesting to hear people’s stories and what they love about Borchers.”

Book a room or view a handy river map: canoeborchers.com.

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^ NEW UP NORTH A monthly column highlighting new businesses and community updates.

BIRCH TREE BAKERY & CAFE 181 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS

Baker Nicole Hall makes coffee cake, cinnamon rolls, brownies, muffins and more sweet treats along with savory breakfast items like burritos and quiches. But one of her personal faves is the loaded cookie bar, stuffed with Oreos and candy bars. facebook.com/ birchtree.bakery.hs BUCHAN’S WEST BAY 13000 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY

The owners of Buchan’s Blueberry Hill on Old Mission Peninsula have opened a new ice cream shop in the former Wares Bros Frosty Treat space (Wares Bros’ second location on South Airport Road remains open). facebook.com/ buchanswestbay DOS ÁRBOLES 735 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT

Located next door to Birch & Maple, and operated by the same owners— sommelier Nick and chef Natalie Crawford—Dos Árboles will be serving tacos and tequila.

MUNDOS WEST & MUNDOS 305 720 W. FRONT ST. & 305 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY

photo by Lydia Mejia

Mundos Roasting & Co. continues to expand its coffee footprint with two new locations this spring. The West café will have limited indoor seating with a focus on single-origin batch brews and grab-and-go sandwiches. At Mundos 305, find large tables for meetings and a more expansive food and drink menu. mundosroastingco.com Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

SIP ROSÉ ALL MAY The popular Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail event returns during Michigan Wine Month. Ticket holders receive a three-ounce pour of select rosés from more than 20 participating wineries along with a signature souvenir glass and can travel along the peninsula at their leisure. The trail’s wineries offer a variety of rosé wines, including dry, sweet, sparkling and still. Tickets are available online for $35: MyNorthTickets.com.

RECYCLE YOUR BOAT COVER Boaters in Michigan can help keep shrink-wrap out of landfills thanks to the Recycling Run Program. For 10 years, the collection program has worked with marinas, boat dealers and individuals across the state to recycle plastic and give it a new life as composite decking (manufactured by TREX decking). The effort is a partnership between Dr. Shrink, the Michigan Recycling Coalition, EGLE, Bay Area Recycling for Charities and Emmet County Recycling.

How to participate: • Purchase your recycling bag(s) for $7 from Dr. Shrink. This is a one-time fee that includes the cost to collect, transport, bale and recycle.

• Fill out the program registration form.

• Remove shrink-wrap from your boat, place into the bag and deliver to a registered drop-off location near you, such as a marina or recycling facility.

Purchase the bags and find the form online at dr-shrink.com. Click “All Products” then “Recycling Run Program.”

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PA I D C O N T E N T

ADVENTURES IN

SAULT

STE. MARIE

BY KIM SCHNEIDER

For a few days away or a major vacay, our neighbor to the north welcomes adventurers of all stripes.

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pened borders have given michiganders

the chance to cross the bridge to explore favorite destinations, dramatic landscapes and new tours and trails.

These nine ways to vacation in Sault Ste. Marie, Canada will set your heart’s compass to true north, whether you’re heading up for a weekend or crafting a longer trip with family or friends.

RIDING THE RAILS: The Agawa Canyon Train line has run the same route for more than a century through landscape carved more than 1.2 billion years ago. The train winds through thick maple forests and past waterfalls to descend 500 feet to the floor of the Agawa Canyon and is the only way to reach Agawa Canyon Park. Here, a stop allows climbs to stunning overlooks, and the trip itself offers photo ops as it rumbles over trestle bridges and crosses the Goulais River. Narration given through headsets in multiple languages adds another layer with tales of the original Ojibwe settlers, fur traders, explorers and more.

BEACH BOUNT Y: Sandy Pointe des Chenes at the mouth of the St. Marys River is a perfect spot for both sand castle building and freighter watching. On the

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wilder side, Pancake Bay Provincial Park offers up kilometers of golden sand, crystal clear waters, loon calls and the Edmund Fitzgerald Lookout. At Old Woman Bay, you can spend the day hunting for driftwood surrounded by rocky cliffs that resemble an old woman’s face. Families love Batchawana Bay Provincial Park, a warm cove where picnic fare must include apple fritters from the Voyageurs’ Lodge and Cookhouse.

CULINARY TOURING: When Carole Blaquiere leads groups on her Blaq Bear culinary walking tours through downtown Sault Ste. Marie, the food is elevated by storytelling with tales of the city’s fascinating culture and history. A growing international population is reflected in the culinary scene with newcomers like Georgie’s Shawarma. A culinary tour favorite, the Machine Shop collective inside the Canal District is home to a steak house, gelato mill, freshly cooked pizzas in The Boiler Room and OutSpoken Brewing, all cleverly housed inside the renovated former Lake Superior Paper Company complex.

BIKING: The city has positioned itself as an adventure town, with a recent million-dollar investment in mountain bike trails that

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PA I D C O N T E N T

opened this spring. “It’s up with anywhere in the world, really,” says Jack Perrotta-Lewin, the Sault Cycling Club’s fat bike director. “Every day I wake up here it’s like I won the lottery.” The Hiawatha Highlands Trail System offers options for multiple skill levels. Those looking for a more leisurely ride can opt for the paved 22-kilometer John Rowswell Hub Trail that takes in the St. Marys River

and they share their heritage in more subtle ways, sometimes with singing and drumming on a paddle or hiking trip. On the Algoma University campus, take a tour of Shingwauk Hall, established in 1873 as a residential school for First Nations children, and operated as such until the Shingwauk Indian Residential School closed in 1970. The building is one of the oldest landmarks in the Sault Ste. Marie area.

for an outing in watercraft modeled after those used in the Canadian fur trade, offered with history/wildlife tours by the Lake Superior Watershed Conservancy. Or head out onto Lake Superior, easily done from the

shoreline base camp of Forest the Canoe in Goulais River. The company offers a tent and a tiny house rental for an overnight and tours along the red sandstone coastline.

HISTORY: History comes to life at the Ermatinger-Clergue National Historic Site’s exhibits related to the War of 1812 and the fur trade, shared by interpreters in period costume.

DESTINATION HIKING: The hiking along the Lake Superior Coastal Trail is “rugged enough to have beaten me up a time or two,” says ecotour guide Ryan Walker, who founded his company Forest the Canoe with partner Shana Shipperbottom in the area partly for the trail’s dramatic landscapes and geology. Come autumn, he and other area guides steer guests to the Robertson Cliffs within the Algoma Highlands Conservancy, widely considered some of the North’s best hiking to a fall overlook view.

FISHING: Fishing enthusiast Ernest Hemingway wrote that “the best rainbow trout fishing in the world is the rapids of the Canadian Soo.” But here’s the rest of the quote: “and it’s a wild nightmare kind of fishing.” That just means you’ll want a guide like John Giuliani leading you over boulders to the flowing rapids to what he calls the best fly fishing in North America. In a single day, he’s caught Atlantic salmon, rainbow trout and steelhead, something you can’t do anywhere else in Canada.

“It’s phenomenal,” he says, “and it’s right near downtown.”

INDIGENOUS TOURISM: Attend a Powwow like the competition-style Gathering at the Rapids at Algoma University or traditional Batchewana Powwow to experience dancing, sample foods and learn about the culture.

Thrive Tours, co-owned by two Indigenous guides, lead tours to Powwows,

PADDLING: From the Sault College Waterfront Adventure Centre on the St. Marys River, you can get a new perspective on the city with a canoe, kayak or stand-up paddleboard rental. Book with Indigenous-owned Thrive Tours, and you’ll get a similar view with a deeper perspective, or opt

waterfront and connects restaurants and museums. Rentals are available during summer months from Roberta Bondar Marina and Sault Ste. Marie Canal Historic Site.

But the city’s museum claim to fame is the Canadian Bushplane Heritage Centre — a former airplane hangar devoted to the history of the way bush planes opened exploration of Canada’s more rugged north as well as aerial firefighting. Experience the thrill of flight in a flight adventure simulator, climb aboard vintage aircraft and settle in to the cockpit of a Saunders ST-27 passenger plane.

Visit saulttourism.com for more information on maps, tours, lodging, how to book and more.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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More info at GreatLakesLand.net or call 231.633.6449

4/4/22 7:32 PM

TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

May

edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

THU

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THU

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FRI

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SAT

photo by Taylor Brown

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“Lungs”, a smart, funny drama that follows a couple through the surprising life cycle of their relationship as they grapple with questions of family and change, hope and betrayal. Presented by Parallel 45 Theatre in Traverse City. MyNorthTickets.com Opening night of “Chicago” at Traverse City’s Old Town Playhouse is sizzling, seductive and utterly irresistible. oldtownplayhouse.com Traverse City’s Downtown Art Walk runs from 4 to 7 p.m. Enjoy various displays at participating businesses. downtowntc.com Guided wildflower hikes with Sleeping Bear Dunes Tours let you explore different floral habitats and learn about early bloomers, woods and wildlife.

MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

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TUE

Happy Mother’s Day! Pick a bouquet of daffodils for mom at Old Mission Flowers. oldmissionflowers.com

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The Cooks’ House final wine dinner of the season features five courses and pairings from 2 Lads Winery. MyNorthTickets.com

THU

Boyne City’s National Morel Mushroom Festival returns this year with special morel-inspired recipes, live entertainment, a carnival, craft show and more May 12–15. bcmorelfestival.com

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The Fort2Fort 5 Mile Challenge starts with a blast of rifles at Fort Mackinac, then takes a winding route up to Fort Holmes (the highest point on Mackinac Island!). mackinacisland.org Rosé All May! Visit 20+ wineries along the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail for pours of rosé during the entire month of May. MyNorthTickets.com

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

SAT

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When a death on the dance floor makes this prom night a party foul, it’s up to you to figure out whodunit at a 1950s murder mystery dinner at Otsego Resort in Gaylord.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

The 15th annual Michigan Beer and Brat Festival at Crystal Mountain features an enormous selection of Michigan microbrews, meads, hard ciders, wine, liquor and gourmet brats. crystalmountain.com

SAT

The Harbor Springs Farmers Market opens for the season on the corner of State and Main. harborspringschamber.com

SAT

The Bayshore Marathon, Half Marathon and 10K has become a Memorial Day Weekend tradition for running enthusiasts who want to see the beauty of the Grand Traverse region and Old Mission Peninsula. bayshoremarathon.org

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled.

Check online or call ahead to confirm.

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CRYSTAL

SUMMER

There’s so much Crystal fun to be done when it’s warm out. Swim. Bike.

Hike. Ride the Alpine slide. Enjoy a massage or facial in the Crystal Spa. Play our championship 18-hole golf courses, both rated  by Golf Digest. Book your Crystal summer stay now.

C R YS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

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THOMPSONVILLE, MI

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travel

The SS Badger is escorted out of port on its maiden voyage of the season.

PARTY WITH THE SUN IN FISHTOWN

The annual “Here comes the Sun” party has been rocking historic Fishtown every Memorial Day Monday for 30 years, with the Covid-19 years offering the first pause. This year, The Cove restaurant is bringing back the long-time traditions: live band, outdoor grill going all day, a rowboat icing down the beer as it floats on the Leland River. Make it a weekend at the newly renovated Falling Waters Lodge, opening this month, or catch Manitou Island Transit’s Mishe-Mokwa ferry to South Manitou as it launches Memorial Day weekend. lelandmi.com

SAY HELLO TO SUMMER

by KIM SCHNEIDER

Four iconic ways to kick off our sweetest season.

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orthern michigan knows how to celebrate summer’s arrival, and with it, those lingering hours of blissful sunlight just right for time spent at the beach, on the boat and with buddies around campfires. This month, join a decades-long party that greets the sun, a ritual cannon firing and the cheering on of a ferry launch.

photo by Steve Begnoche/American Coot Photography

MAKE IT MACKINAC

It’s tradition for the reigning Lilac Queen to fire the first cannon when Fort Mackinac opens for the season, then open the gates to waiting guests. This year brings back a popular program (after a hiatus) that lets visitors learn to drill like an 1880s soldier, as well as a new reading room offering the chance to learn history through newspapers of the day. Afterward, toast from the popular waterfront decks at Pink Pony, or book a discounted pre-season lodging package at a spot like Mission Point Resort and tiptoe amid the 33,000 tulips turning their many-colored faces toward the sun. You may even share a ferry over to the island with a horse or two; they start clomping back to the island this month from their winter pastures. mackinacisland.org

CATCH A FLICK AT THE DRIVE-IN

Nothing says season opener of summer like Honor’s chance to catch the family-friendly double feature at The Cherry Bowl Drive-in. Pre-movie, make time for onsite mini golf and taking in the cartoons that feature dancing hot dogs.

Don’t forget to grab a bucket of popcorn topped with real butter made in the original 1953 popper. Get dessert first at another icon, The Cherry Hut, opening May 27 and celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. The restaurant’s famous cherry pies were first made as a way for the Kraker family to use fresh cherries from their orchard and are now a summer staple. You’ll be out late, so stay at another Benzie County icon, (circa 1930s) Chimney Corners, known for breezy porches and laid-back vintage charm. benzie.org HELP LAUNCH THE BADGER

The entire town, or so it seems, lines the streets of Ludington when the SS Badger sets sail for the season on May 12 and a fire department boat sprays it with a dramatic, boat christening-style bath. Even first-time sailors on this four-hour Lake Michigan ferry between Ludington and Manitowoc, Wisconsin, will find it hard to resist joining Badger Bingo (with prizes!), or catching an on-board movie. Look for themed shoreline sails, too, that cruise Ludington’s coast with live entertainment. ssbadger.com Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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up in michigan

A GRANDPA’S WISH

by JAMES MCCULLOUGH

Sharing summer’s secrets with the next generation.

photo by Meghan Leigh McCullough

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watched my 1-year-old granddaughter stump and wobble, holding my daughter’s hand as they walked up to the stream and pond beside our house where a half dozen frogs sit in the moss and on the rocks along the rim. She had yet to notice them, but soon would. I smiled deeply, as the scene pulled me backward to recollections of myself as a child, crouching beside Stroup Creek, a narrow, clean, sand-andpebble flow below my childhood home, with a frog pond farther upstream.

Once I was free to be alone in that world, I’d lose myself in space and time, breathing in more than atmosphere, feeling the aura of spring-fed, cold-moving water, the scented, oxygen-rich flora. I explored the microcosms of riffles and pools, turning over rocks to find wiggly mayfly nymphs that hatch each year in the same sequences of spring, summer or fall, and caddis fly nymphs that build protective, tubular casings of wood flakes and sand, awaiting their own emergences.

The stream teemed with an array of water striders and water beetles, silver minnows, tiny crayfish and, in the backwater of a deeper pool, a pair of stickleback minnows, thin and bony-backed, like inch-long sturgeon. They amazed me as they built a nest of vegetative detritus into which they would dart if threatened from above. If I remained still for a long time, they would come out, guarding the door so their eggs could be hatched in safety. I saw them as parents and children and felt their lives, their fears. I was their protector, keeper of their secrets. I would never show them to neighbor kids who might drop rocks on them, and I would visit them daily before hiking up to the frog pond at the south end of the grassy field that in the winter became the community skating rink. There, the source of Stroup Creek percolated up, filling pools with spring water from the hillside above it.

I’d investigate underwater life by dipping my butterfly net and studying what wound up there. There were giant water beetles, minnows and tadpoles, but the frogs entertained me the most. Common green frogs, large bull frogs and speedy, prized leopard frogs, all with their simple, contented faces

and dark, gold-rimmed eyes, fleshy white and yellow throats and circular tympanic membranes for ears. I would sneak up and gently net them, reach in to hold their back legs gingerly with my thumb and forefinger, study and smile at them before I let them go.

It’s my wish that my granddaughter will find her own natural settings where she can learn to closely observe in the presence of cold, clean water and untainted woods, until she, too, can recognize shifts in ecosystems by atmosphere, the transformations from summer’s earthy musk to autumn’s biting bracken fern, cedar swamp to river runs, pine stand to hardwood to field. I hope she can learn how life of one place depends on another, and on temperature, soil, sunlight and moisture. I hope the interdependences of plants, fish and the seasonal cycles of insects and animals will become apparent, and that she will find her own particular understanding of the kinetic, churning fabric of the living world.

Solitude in nature develops vision unclouded by cultural assumption, and though even in the midst of the crowd she may find disparity between her experiences, her understandings, her values and those of others, I wish for her the independence of thought, vision, confidence and joy nature provides. I wish this so she may feel these interconnections at her core. They are threads to the transcendent and can ground her, never leaving her lonely. I wish all of this, hoping to share with her the profound sense of belonging that opens the heart to love.

James McCullough is the founder of the University of Michigan's Bear River Writers Conference and the author of "Voelker's Pond (2003), a Library of Michigan notable book, and "Echoes" (2018), a series of outdoor essays. He offers writing coaching and workshops via Artium of Northern Michigan.

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W I L D A T H E A R T

B Y M AT T H E W D U R S U M P H O T O S B Y B E T H P R I C E

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Opposite: Morels are the most prized, and elusive, treat in our woods.

F O R A G I N G

THIS SPRING, YOU’LL S E E C A R S PA R K E D A LO N G

O U R LO C A L WO O D S A N D F I E L D S C O N N E C T S U S N O T O N LY T O O U R F O O D , B U T A L S O T O E A C H O T H E R .

RURAL STRETCHES OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S R OA DWAY S , T H E I R O C C U PA N T S T R E A D I N G THROUGH THE WOODS, G A Z I N G I N T E N T LY DOWNWARD. THESE PEOPLE AREN’T WALKING A I M L E S S LY . T H E Y A R E LO O K I N G FO R FO O D.

Not the packaged and easily available foods we’re used to buying at supermarkets, but food that’s the very definition of local. Our woods contain a botanical and mycological smorgasbord of wild violets, onions, mushrooms, berries and weeds like dandelions that are healthy, delicious and can be harvested throughout the year. For many of us, both here in Michigan and around the world, the act of foraging connects us with our food, the environment and, most of all, each other.

In many cultures, it’s not just families who gather over wild produce. When I lived and worked as

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an English teacher in the small village of Ei, Japan, my local friends and I would participate in annual spring foraging expeditions in the surrounding region. Our favorite place was a village on Japan’s southwest coast known as Bonotsu, about 40 minutes from Ei and an hour and a half from the city of Kagoshima and the active volcano Sakurajima.

When the relentless monsoon season begins in late spring, the region’s humid, subtropical climate and volcanic soil gets drenched in warm rainwater, producing a bouquet of wild plants, mushrooms and berries.

Plants like tsuwabuki and aso no udo sprout throughout the thickly forested mountains and valleys. Bamboo groves produce meaty shoots ready to be harvested by the dozens,

O U R

W O O D S

CO N TA I N A B OTA N I C A L A N D M YCO LO G I C A L

S M O R G A S B O R D

and fallen logs transform into colonies of edible mushrooms.

At these early morning harvests, or “foraging festivals,” as many people liked to call them, groups of people of all ages would set off up steep mountainsides carrying thick bags on their backs. The older generations took great care explaining to the children and me, the overly confident foreigner, how to properly identify and prepare these tasty treats.

After we were done collecting, we would return to town and prepare Top to bottom: Matt Dursum samples some berries and harvests leeks; Ella Skrocki shows off an oyster mushroom she picked near Sleeping Bear Dunes.

Opposite: Wild violets and berries are two of the North’s edible delights found throughout the spring and summer.

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the feast. Every morsel was used as the star ingredient in dishes ranging from savory soups to tempura and rice dishes full of mountain greens.

Whatever was left was taken to industrial kitchens to be made into pickles bearing Bonotsu’s emblem and sold throughout the region.

What inspired me most was not just the diversity of ingredients the forest could produce or the flavors we could make, but also how this festival brought the community together.

Generally, for us in the United States, foraging is done in small groups of friends and families, or by individuals looking for the soulquenching solace that only nature can provide. When I was a child, I would join my friends every year on a foraging journey through the forests in Grand Traverse County. Equipped with hiking boots, bags, digging tools and plenty of snacks to hold us over, we would spend hours scouring the forest floor. I’ll never forget the first time I stumbled onto a grove of wild blueberries. I discovered the spot by accident after wandering into a sandy meadow off the trail. I was trying to find sweet ferns and before I knew it, voila! I was surrounded by bushes full of ripe treasure. I still travel to this fruitful place every summer when I’m home, and I’m always delighted with the berries I find.

Even though I left Michigan after high school, I always look forward to coming back in the spring and summer months and hitting the woods with my friends. Finding fiddlehead ferns, wild leeks and the occasional morel fills us with excitement similar to a hunt. That excitement overflows when we unload our goods in the kitchen and prepare a feast. Much like my experiences in Japan, the meals run late into the night and are remembered throughout the year.

T H E R E I S N OT H I N G MORE

H E A L I N G TO T H E I N D I V I D UA L O R T H E G RO U P T H A N FO O D AND

N AT U R E

dense clusters within our hardwood forests. (Note: Always harvest leeks and other wild plants on private property. Also know that a toxic look-alike species known as Death Camas grow in similar clusters but away from woodlands. They lack the telltale onion aroma of leeks.)

Cooking wild leeks is especially fun. Sautéing them in butter with a pinch of salt is simple yet satisfying. Stewing them for hours with bones and other vegetables creates a broth that will impress even the pickiest ramen snob. By far my favorite way to enjoy them is to create a Michigan version of a northern Spanish tradition. Every year in Spain’s Catalonian region, communities gather to indulge in rich green onions known as calçots.

These pungent tidbits are covered in olive oil, cooked over smoking wood coals and washed down with copious amounts of red wine. This year my friends and I recreated a calçotada with Michigan’s wild

Northern michigan’s foraging season starts in early spring. Wild leeks (Allium tricoccum), also known as ramps, are some of the first edible plant species to make their appearance. These pungent greens resemble a richly flavored cross between garlic and shallots and are found in NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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ramps and local cab franc.

During ramp season, our hardwoods start providing delicious spring elixirs. Beginning with maples in March and yellow birch in April, nutrient-rich sap begins to flow toward tree buds and newgrowth wood. This year I found several healthy yellow birch trees on a friend’s property. I carefully carved my homemade tap using a yellow birch branch, inserted it into a small hole, and let the liquid drip into a canteen that I tied to the tree. After an hour of hiking, I came back to find my canteen full of the refreshing liquid. Birch sap is packed with nutrients and a small amount of sugar. For those familiar with making maple syrup, the same process can be used to condense birch sap into a thick, rich syrup.

By far the most famous, elusive and prized treat from our woods are morel mushrooms. Every year, hundreds of mushroom hunters descend into forests and orchards to find them (as well as to events like the annual Mesick Mushroom Festival and the National Morel Mushroom Festival in Boyne City).

Like morels, many species of wild mushrooms are harvested and celebrated throughout the world. Arguably the most famous and crowd-pleasing fungus festivals 24

occur in Northern Italy. These events are centered on the enigmatic white truffles that appear in the pastoral Italian countryside every fall. Thousands of people flock to villages in the region to partake in the foraging, preparation

Top to bottom: Cattail shoots make for great tempura (see recipe on next page); Stoking a fire to grill up some freshly foraged produce. Opposite: Nothing says camping like fresh oyster mushrooms and spanakopita cooked over a campfire.

and ultimate consumption of the fungi. Many regional specialties are made with them, including my favorite, truffle risotto. Morels, although lighter in flavor, can also be made into a fantastic risotto that perfectly captures the flavors of springtime in Northern Michigan.

As the warmth of summer approaches, many more delicious plants make their appearance Up North.

Cattails, with corn dog–shaped

flowers, grow ubiquitously throughout our swamps and shorelines. While every part of the plant is edible, the young shoots provide the easiest and most delicious snack. Similar to the young bamboo shoots I harvested in Japan, their crisp texture and soft taste work perfectly in tempura.

Like delectable desserts after a hearty meal, berries appear in our woods in early summer, and what could be more special than our wild blueberries? Their sweet and pungent flavor is something I crave every time I leave Northern Michigan. Many people use them in jams, sauces or even alcoholic infusions. Few places celebrate wild blueberries better than the U.P.—at Paradise’s annual Wild Blueberry Festival, blueberries hold center stage. The small berries became a staple of the local economy during the Great Depression, and today, with the tourism the festival attracts, they’re just as important.

Our region is truly special and, for better or worse, an increasingly desirable place to live. As traffic increases and our area’s cities and towns expand, our communities need these forays into the forest. There is nothing more healing to the individual or the group than food and nature.

In the end, what represents local pride more than foraging?

Matt Dursum is a writer from Traverse City who currently lives in South America. Matt specializes in food, wine, travel and surfing.

For more of his writing, visit wayfarersoliloquy.com.

Beth Price is an editorial and commercial photographer based in Northern Michigan. It’s here where she finds much inspiration in the color palette and light that falls throughout the changing seasons.

She’s passionate about capturing authentic human experiences that help achieve a greater appreciation for the natural world we live in.

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R E C I P E S Morel and Ramp Risotto INGREDIENTS:

2 cups water 4 cups chicken or mushroom stock 6 minced ramp stalks 2 Tablespoons butter ½ pound fresh morels or 1-2 ounces dried morels 2 cups risotto or Spanish short grain rice Splash of white wine Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup grated parmesan Fresh basil or oregano (optional) PROCESS:

Gently simmer the water and stock in a large pot. Dice the white ramp stalks and greens and separate. Sauté the ramp stalks in butter until translucent.

Add the morels and rice and cook for 5 minutes. After the moisture from the fresh morels has evaporated, add the heated stock and water a half-cup at a time, carefully letting the liquid absorb into the rice. Stir often to avoid burning on the bottom. When the rice is fully cooked, add a splash of white wine and another small splash of stock. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn off the heat and add the grated cheese and garnish with fresh herbs. *If using dried morels, soak them in water for an hour first before adding them in place of the fresh morels.

Catalonian-Style Ramps INGREDIENTS:

2 cups whole ramps, leaves left on 4 Tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Local cabernet franc or pinot noir PROCESS:

In a grill, heat up and evenly distribute coals and add your favorite smoking wood like cherry. Wash your harvested ramps and leave them intact. Coat the ramps in olive oil and add a little salt and pepper to taste. After the coals are hot and the wood starts smoking, add the ramps to the grill. Grill until the ramps are soft and slightly charred on the outside. Serve with local red wine.

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Dandelion Flower and Cattail Shoot Tempura INGREDIENTS:

20 dandelion flowers, destemmed 4 cattail stems Cold water and a few ice cubes 1 cup flour 1 egg 1 cup vegetable oil (I prefer grapeseed oil) 1/4 cup cornstarch Pinch of salt INGREDIENT PREP:

Gather 20 healthy dandelion flowers and remove the stems. In a clean area away from pollution, cut 4 cattails cleanly at the base of the stalk.

Remove the top 2/3 of the plant and keep the bottom stem. Remove several layers of the husk and keep the soft inside shoot of each plant. Cut cattail shoots into 4-inch-long halves (baton cuts work the best).

BATTER PREP:

Add ice to cold water and let chill in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. In a small bowl, sift the flour to remove any clusters. In a larger bowl, beat the egg softly with a fork or chopsticks until the whites and yolks are thoroughly mixed. Remove the ice water from the refrigerator and remove the ice cubes (do not add ice to the batter). Add water to the beaten egg.

Slowly add the flour to the water and beaten egg. Make sure to gently mix the flour into the mixture—you want to leave some lumps of batter.

FRYING PROCESS:

Heat vegetable oil in a deep-frying pan to around 350° F. Dip cattail slices and dandelion flowers into a thin layer of cornstarch or sifted flour to help the batter stick. Gently and quickly dip vegetables into the batter.

Add battered vegetables to the hot oil and fry until lightly crispy. Enjoy with your favorite dipping sauce. (I recommend tenstuyu, a sauce you can buy at an Asian grocery store or find simple recipes for online.)

4/4/22 7:42 PM

FINDING THE

NORTHERN DREAM NEWLYWEDS HUNT FOR THEIR FIRST HOME IN TRAVERSE CITY WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

BY RACHEL SOULLIERE

MEGAN AND NATHAN PETROELJE

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egan and Nathan Petroelje began searching for their dream home in Traverse City with a few musts in mind. Hagerty employee and self-proclaimed car guy Nathan knew he wanted a two-car garage for future projects, while Megan was more interested in finding a house that they could turn into a home. Born and raised in Michigan, the couple regularly spent time traveling North and vacationing with family, friends and each other. Most recently, they even got engaged and married in Northern Michigan.

The pace of life, proximity to water, natural beauty and happy memories were just a few of the things that drew Megan and Nathan to this area. “Beauty is all around us up here and that was one of the things that made it such an easy decision to make the move,” Nathan says. “Being asked to live in a town like Traverse City for a job is so rare for young people like us, so we jumped at the opportunity to head North.”

Before starting their house search, Nathan and Megan sat down and discussed what they most wanted in their home: the ability to host family and friends, a two-car garage for storage and projects, the ability to renovate and personalize, land for privacy (and a dog!), a maximum commute of 30 minutes from downtown Traverse City and a budget cap of $300,000.

They knew they needed a home with at least three bedrooms and two bathrooms to allow them to welcome frequent visitors. “We love hosting lots of family and friends in this area that we love so much, which is why one of the most important factors in our house search was a home that comfortably fits our visitors,” Megan says.

Megan and Nathan started their hunt with Realtor Erika Nita from Real Estate One. Erika took them to 15 different homes in the Traverse City area in hopes of finding the perfect one for the Petroeljes.

“A home is the biggest purchase that a young couple makes by a longshot,” Nathan says. “Erika’s expertise and knowledge made the stress of home buying, especially as first-time homebuyers, a lot more manageable for us. We were very measured in our approach and that didn’t bother her at all; she always went above and beyond and was completely patient and supportive through the entire process.”

After viewing all 15 homes, Megan and Nathan narrowed it down to their top three with the help of Erika. >>

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Finalist

No. 1

ROSELAWN IN TRAVERSE CITY This three-bed, two-bath family home was located on a private lot with state land directly behind it. It was 15 minutes from downtown Traverse City and featured a wood-burning stove, 1,500-square-foot pole barn, two-car garage and a four-season sitting room with cathedral ceilings. The spacious main floor living room led into a bonus lower level lounge and the home had easy access to local recreational trails.

Megan and Nathan loved the location of this home and the expansive landscape views. The pole barn was a bonus where Nathan could see himself completing future car projects. The biggest issue was how much work was required inside, including new walls throughout.

GRAND TRAVERSE COUNTY

> ASKING PRICE: $283,000

Finalist

No. 2

TIMBERLEE IN TRAVERSE CITY

Finalist

No. 3

CARLISLE IN TRAVERSE CITY Featuring an acre-and-a-half lot that backed up to a wooded area, this three-bed, two-bath home was the most private of all the options.

It offered open living areas, a fireplace and countryside views. Updates had been made throughout the house, but the bedrooms were smaller in size, and some rooms, like the kitchen, could still use upgrades.

Megan and Nathan loved the lot and the opportunity for easy upgrades and investments.

They were slightly put off by the painting inside, steep driveway and no air conditioning, something they knew they would need during summer months. This home was brimming with potential but missing a few key things they wanted.

GRAND TRAVERSE COUNTY

> ASKING PRICE: $265,000

This home in the Timberlee development was both family- and dog-friendly and featured three bedrooms and two bathrooms. The entire neighborhood was an active play place with a nearby dogfriendly trail, access to a tubing hill and an ownership interest in the Tamarack Beach Club's shared frontage on Lake Leelanau.

Outside of the unlimited neighborhood activities, this tri-level home featured new laminate flooring, an insulated two-car garage and newer updates throughout.

Megan and Nathan loved the location (which is close to downtown TC and Lake Leelanau), the backyard and how manageable future projects would be. The downside of this home was the lack of a finished lower level, which would make it more difficult to host family and friends.

GRAND TRAVERSE COUNTY

> ASKING PRICE: $255,000

WHAT HOME DID THE PETROELJES PICK? Discover which house Megan and Nathan bought and vote for the property you would have chosen: LINK.MYNORTH.COM/MEGANANDNATHAN

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FINDING THE NORTHERN DREAM

A LOCAL BUSINESS OWNER HUNTS FOR A STARTER HOME WHICH WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

BY RACHEL SOULLIERE

CHELSEY AND JASON SKOWRONSKI

Rachel Soulliere leads web content and social media for MyNorth. When she’s not posting new articles online or working on social media strategy, she’s most likely traveling or celebrating Northern Michigan.

Follow her adventures on Instagram @rlsoulliere.

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ommitted to connecting the Northern Michigan community with responsibly sourced goods, Chelsey Skowronski proudly opened her boutique, Poppy Things, in the heart of Suttons Bay just over two years ago. Her store features everything from jewelry to home decor and art, and Chelsey also sells a selection of eco-focused clothing, linens and accessories from her own line that she designs and sews.

Stepping into Poppy Things is an experience in itself. You’re instantly greeted with peach-colored walls, floral boho murals, a thoughtful layout, twinkle lights and more plants than you can count. The shop is, without a doubt, a reflection of this born-and-raised Leelanau County resident.

The majority of Chelsey’s adult life has been dedicated to growing Poppy Things, as she first started when she was 18 by selling goods at local farmers’ markets and art shows. After dedicating so much time to her business, most recently acquiring the store next door to expand her home decor selection, Chelsey and her husband, Jason, knew it was time to find a starter home for themselves and their two cats, Bella and Baby Kitty, and their dog, Memphis.

Growing up on a centennial farm on Lake Leelanau in Cedar, Chelsey knew she wanted to stay in the area and wanted to live close to water, as she swims every day during the summer.

“You don’t realize the connection you make with water until, like me, you move away from the area and find yourself miserable being landlocked,” she says. “After having that experience for a year right out of college, I knew I needed to come home. The happiness, way of life and ability to quickly get outside to play after the workday is magical and something you truly can’t find elsewhere.”

There were a few must-haves on the couple’s list, and as you might guess, one was close proximity to water. They also wanted a basement, storage space, an updated kitchen and a large yard that could be set up for Chelsey’s gardening. Lastly, they needed to make sure it was close enough to Poppy Things, but also still accessible to Traverse City for Jason’s job.

Knowing the realities of a growing business and fast-moving real estate market, Chelsey and Jason were fully prepared for their home hunt to move in slow motion. However, after connecting with real estate agent Kara Gelven at Live Local Realty, this couple quickly narrowed it down to two choices that would make for their perfect starter home.

“I met Kara when I first opened up Poppy Things and she has become a great friend,” Chelsey says. “She really fights for her clients and is always scouring the market—you can bet she’ll make your contract very appealing. I honestly don’t think we could have found our house or beat out the other 10 offers without her.”

With the help of Kara, the Skowronskis narrowed it down to these two homes. >>

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Finalist

No. 1

BIRCH COURT This three-bed, two-bath home was 10 minutes from Chelsey’s centennial family farm, close to Good Harbor Beach and had a little yard with garden beds. The kitchen was recently updated and featured new appliances and countertops.

The previous homeowners took care of it, however privacy was a bit of a concern, since it was in a subdivision and had an Airbnb right next door.

LEELANAU COUNTY

> ASKING PRICE: $259,000

Finalist

No. 2

BAYVIEW DRIVE Featuring a fenced-in yard for their dog, a finished basement and an updated kitchen, this four-bed, two-and-a-halfbath home was closer to Jason’s job and checked a lot of Chelsey’s boxes. While it would max out their budget, there were minimal updates that needed to be made.

LEELANAU COUNTY

> ASKING PRICE: $325,000

7 TIPS FOR FIRST-TIME HOME BUYERS

Real Estate Agent Kara Gelven at Live Local Realty shares must-know advice for new buyers.

No. 1 | Get pre-approved before you start looking.

A local lender who knows the market in your area is preferred.

No. 5 | Attend your home inspection. They are very informative and a good inspector can teach you so much about how the home works and suggested maintenance over the years.

No. 2 | Find a local agent who you connect well

No. 6 | Once you’re preapproved with a mortgage lender, do not make any

No. 3 | Remember your first home does not have to be your forever home. Your starter home doesn’t have to be perfect. Prioritize the things you can’t live without.

No. 7 | It’s a seller’s market! Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get the first home you place an offer on. Your agent will work hard to get you into a home you love.

with, as you might be working together for some time to find the perfect home.

No. 4 | Look past the cosmetic aspects of a home. Things like paint colors, backsplashes and carpet can be easily changed to update the home.

large purchases or career changes. This could negatively affect your ability to get a loan. Talk with your lender more about this if something comes up.

Connect with Kara Gelven at kara@livelocal-realty.com or call 231.632.5448.

WHAT HOME DID THE SKOWRONSKIS PICK? Discover which house Chelsey and Jason bought and vote for the property you would have chosen: LINK.MYNORTH.COM/CHELSEYANDJASON

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HOME WARRIORS PHOTOS BY BETH PRICE

WELCOME

BY CINDY ROSS 30

✭

From its new home in Charlevoix, a one-of-a-kind program pairs veterans and sailboats to find healing on the open water.

✭

From left: Amanda Rush and Travis Johnston are two of the veterans participating in the Charlevoix-based Warrior Sailing program.

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T

ravis Johnston stares off across the open water while his strong hands delicately adjust the wheel of the sailing sloop. The words “Warrior Sailing” stretch across the T-shirt on his broad chest.

His eyes are on the horizon—the same eyes that navigated dark nights in the Afghanistan mountains on dangerous missions. Today these eyes are soft and full of hope—he’s navigating a sailboat on Lake Michigan, along with a crew of other Warrior Sailors, and he’s in his happy place.

It’s a place some veterans struggle to reach from time to time. Travis served as a U.S. Army Ranger between 2006 and 2010 in both Operation Iraqi Freedom and Operation Enduring Freedom. The 75th Ranger Regiment is one of the most prestigious units in America’s Special Operation Forces, a light-infantry force involved in direct-action strikes to seize, capture or recover enemy matérial and personnel. Because of the intensity of these missions, veterans often have a difficult transition once home.

Last July, Travis participated in the Warrior Sailing (WS) program. Director Ben Poucher offers sailing camps for veterans with disabilities in various locations around the country throughout the calendar year, but 2021 was the first year they had a clubhouse to use as their base, right here in Charlevoix. While nationwide Warrior Sailing camps continue to be offered, Charlevoix now serves as the

official summer home for the program, which extends from June through September.

Ben brought the program, which is accredited by the American Sailing Association, to Charlevoix for a few reasons—the first being that he has roots here and learned to sail as a youngster on Lake Charlevoix and Lake Michigan.

Lake Charlevoix is more protected and a good stepping-off point to Lake Michigan, to which it connects, making it an ideal classroom for disabled veterans. And then there are the health benefits of the natural and small-town environments found here—a big help for veterans struggling with PTS (post-traumatic stress) who do better with a laid-back atmosphere and less social pressure from crowds. The land surrounding Charlevoix also has an abundance of outdoor opportunities, and many of the veterans who come to learn to sail also enjoy hiking, running, cycling, fishing and camping.

The Warrior Sailing program serves ill and injured veterans, in addition to those who are combat-wounded. One crew member is a retired commissioned officer who developed Crohn’s disease, which put him in the hospital for two months. He has an ostomy and wears a bag under his WS microfiber shirt. Another veteran struggles with military sexual trauma. Many WS vets experience post-traumatic stress and the invisible wounds that war delivers. Others have limbs missing. But all are able to find a position and be an integral part of the sailing team.

Victor Prato is one such Warrior Sailor. His legs don’t work anymore, ever since an Afghan suicide bomber plowed

“

As veterans, we will always have that common bond, but sailing together as a team of warriors really does forge relationships that are very healing.”

– TRAVIS JOHNSTON

This page (from left): Travis Johnston, Victor Prato and Amanda Rush prepare to set sail.

Opposite (top to bottom): Amanda Rush, David Quichocho and Andre Kok get out on the water; Ben Poucher, Warrior Sailing National Director.

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into his Humvee in 2017, leaving Victor with a spinal cord injury. Fortunately, there is a built-in lifting device onboard the J95 sailing sloop he crews with fellow sailors. He’s first fitted into a bosun’s chair, then raised out of his wheelchair with the main halyard and lowered into the boat.

The Purple Heart recipient loved sailing as a young boy and never thought he’d get to speed over the water again. “There are a lot of challenges adapting a boat for paralyzed sailors, but Warrior Sailing has helped me overcome a lot of obstacles,” he says, smiling as he shimmies his body across the seat. It takes trust to allow his fellow Warrior Sailors to help navigate his heavy, 240-pound body (Victor was a defensive lineman at Princeton before joining the Army), but that is what this program is all about—working together.

The veterans live together in rental homes in the area but all classroom work is conducted at the clubhouse located on Ferry Avenue across from the Charlevoix Yacht Club. It’s a relaxed setting with large whiteboards for teaching, comfortable couches for relaxing, good Wi-Fi, a kitchenette, and a short walk to the marina from which the group sails.

On the walls of the clubhouse are framed photos of every camp and class the organization has held. “The Warriors have been embraced by the local folks in the community,” Ben says. “They sign up to bring breakfast and dinner [to sailors] throughout the entire 10-day program. They appreciate the opportunity to give back to the veterans, and get a chance to meet and know them a bit.” Upon completing the program, some Warrior Sailors stay on at the rental house and continue to sail with locals to gain experience, become

more skilled and develop lasting relationships. They find that the environment promotes relaxation, camaraderie and teamwork.

✭ the organization’s nationwide model is to partner with sailing facilities for basic-level instruction.

Core programs were established in San Diego, Annapolis and St. Petersburg, where there are vibrant military populations, and since 2013, the program has taught more than 500 wounded warriors to sail. Beginner-level sailing programs are still offered throughout the country, but the clubhouse in Charlevoix is also where graduates from those camps can come together to further their sailing skills by taking more advanced classes.

“Our program is different from other sailing programs,” Ben says. “We don’t use volunteers to coach. Our coaching staff is comprised of professional sailors whom I have identified from my various networks. They must have the right attitude to know how to work with these veterans.” Ben explains that his coaches can identify the veterans’ unique learning challenges, be it traumatic brain injury, physical disabilities or PTS, and then teach them the proper skills to successfully sail. “Warrior Sailing does not take veterans on boat rides,” Ben says. “We teach them how to sail.”

Beyond the basic sailing course both Travis and Victor participated in while they were in Charlevoix, they also completed the program’s Coastal Cruising Certification (the American Sailing Association’s 103-level certification),which builds on the skills learned in the basic class, providing more NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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knowledge and confidence and the hope that the Warrior Sailors can go on to take their own families sailing. Toward the end of their class, Travis and his crew of five sailed 14 nautical miles down Lake Charlevoix testing their new skills, docking the boat, grabbing lunch downtown and motoring back to Charlevoix.

At the same time that Travis’ and Victor’s class was being held, there were also nine more advanced WS at the clubhouse. The veterans learned to race with the goal of participating in the legendary Chicago Yacht Club Race to Mackinac at the end of the program. All of the Warrior Sailors, cruising- and racing-certified alike, conclude their education session by participating in a Safety at Sea certification program administered by Warrior Sailing staff and aided by Charlevoix’s U.S. Coast Guard.

In Safety at Sea, the sailors fire and hold hand flares; shoot signal guns; inflate PFDs; activate, blow up and flip

over life rafts, then hoist one another inside, zip up the cover and feel what it’s like to crowd together when the seas are very rough. They learn to make formations in the water to become a larger, more visible mass, how to cradle an injured comrade in the water, huddle together to conserve body heat and hook together in a long line and swim to conserve energy. Although these are life-saving skills for emergencies, the sounds of laughter and joking ring out across the water as the WS practice them with their buddies.

The sport of sailing provides an environment for the kind of intimate teamwork that other individual sports don’t offer. Everyone works together on the same boat and learns to navigate and repair it as needed. The Warrior Sailors are challenged by trip planning, boat preparation and dealing with inclement weather. The components of self-reliance, goal-setting and a destination-driven focus bring them right back to the same teamwork they experienced in the

This page (top, from left): Warrior Sailing coaches Katy Perrin and Dan Perrin; Warrior Keith Poynor; Outreach coordinator and coach Ian Holtzworth.

(Bottom, front to back): Warriors Travis Johnston, Amanda Rush, Andre Kok and David Quichocho enjoy a day on the water.

Opposite (top): Amanda Rush and Victor Prato guide their vessel.

Bottom: Back row, from left: Keith Poynor, Bo Darlington, Andre Kok, James Burge, Trevor VanAssche and Ben Poucher.

Middle, from left: Kelly Patterson, Pete Sarris, Megs Bryant, Katy Perrin, Dan Perrin, Amanda Rush and Sammy Lugo.

Front, from left: Gabe George, Victor Prato, David Quichocho, Ian Holtzworth and Travis Johnston.

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“

Warrior Sailing does not take veterans on boat rides; we teach them how to sail.” – BEN POUCHER military. “These guys are banged up physically and mentally,” Ben explains, “but they know how to work in a group and are very good at it. As a unit, they are very powerful.

They will never let their brothers and sisters down.”

“It’s been a lot of fun, grounding and humbling to be around these other veterans,” Travis says, “especially the ones who have legit physical disabilities—are amputees or are paralyzed—and they are doing something with their lives like learning to sail. They know they need it to maintain their sanity and it’s very impressive. As veterans, we will always have that common bond, but sailing together as a team of warriors, really does forge relationships that are very healing.”

immersing himself in the natural world can do wonders for every part of his being: physical, mental and emotional.

Travis still struggles with the memories of the fire fights that took place in the Afghan mountains. “Discussing it is painful and I relive it almost daily,” he says. “Some days I hurt more than others; some days those memories are absent, yet sometimes they seem to occupy every corner of my brain. I’ve accepted that I will deal with this the rest of my

✭ sailing is a very good example of “eco-therapy” (or green or nature therapy), an applied practice of psychotherapy based on the principle that people are a part of the web of life; that our psyches are not separate from the environment and that the earth and nature have a self-righting capacity.

When immersed, people experience improved mental health.

And being on the open water has a profoundly regulating effect. In his book “Blue Mind,” marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols documents the effect open water has on our brainwaves, producing relaxed alpha-wave patterns. These waves help to rewire the emotionally dysregulated PTSD brain into a calmer, focused one capable of new learning and new experiences. The emotion of awe also plays a big role in our

health, happiness and well-being. By making us feel small in relation to something larger, awe humbles us and strips away feelings of entitlement or arrogance. It also lowers levels of inflammatory cytokines and boosts the immune system.

“When you get onto the boat with the sails trimmed and you’re cruising, and all you hear is the water hitting the hull, it’s exciting, but it’s peaceful and calming at the same time,” Travis says. “The wind and the waves, they speak to me. It makes me feel good to be out there and to be in control of this craft, one that I could theoretically take around the world.”

Since retiring, Travis has taken huge steps toward healing. He has backpacked more than 8,000 miles across America’s loftiest mountain ranges, realizing that

life, but I am determined to improve and work on forgiving myself and others. I can’t change the past. The present and future are my priorities. I want to always be getting healthier and sustain my perpetual improvement.” Today, Travis has harnessed his need to be of service and is currently working as a firefighter and attending paramedic school.

Travis is only one success story in a long line of disabled veteran sailors’ stories. One of the initiatives in Warrior Sailing’s BOLD Campaign, unveiled in 2021, is the goal to change the lives of 750 disabled veterans over the next five years. This comes with a price tag of about $3,000 per person to take the course and a grand total of $500,000 annually to run the program.

Ben is looking to offer additional “Safety at Sea” certification courses in Charlevoix for both the public and warriors to help raise funds to support programming. He also hopes to start a director training camp in Charlevoix, which would teach Warrior Sailor graduates to become directors themselves. “I want to teach Warriors real life stuff,” Ben says, “and I want to give them a future.”

For more information on the Warrior Sailing program, visit warriorsailing.org.

Cindy Ross is the author of nine books with the latest, “Walking Toward Peace: Veterans Healing on America’s Trails,” featuring Travis Johnston. Cindy is also the director of the nonprofit River House PA: Healing Veterans in Nature. cindyrosstraveler.com Beth Price is an editorial and commercial photographer based in Northern Michigan. It’s here where she finds much inspiration in the color palette and light that falls throughout the changing seasons. bethpricephotography.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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A HEX UPON ME

NO SHOWERS. NO COOKING. NO SLEEP. WHEN THE MAYFLIES HATCH, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TROUT.

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TEXT AND PHOTOS

BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI 4/4/22 7:50 PM

“I

haven’t Hexed in five years.” Last fall I started mumbling this compulsively to anyone in my vicinity, like the ancient mariner who tells his tale to one in three. Should read one of three per the poem I told my barber, my colleagues, my students—the latter of whom exchanged knowing glances with each other, their suspicions of madness finally confirmed. While it’s anyone’s guess how non-anglers understood my moaning—perhaps bewailing a hiatus from devil craft?—my fishing friends appreciated the depth and direness of the situation. To the Midwestern trout angler, the mayfly known as Hexagenia limbata is the universe’s one clear compensation for our region’s missing mountains, our absent ocean, the danger of moving through life knowing that, one day, you may be called upon to drive through Indiana. To miss Hex limbata, the great redeemer, five years in a row points to an existential crisis that asks, “What, oh angler, are you doing with your life?”

The problem lay in the fact that every year, I seemed to get a juicy writing assignment that coincided with Hex time. There was the June I spent surrounded by thousands of puckering grayling in a Polish mountain valley smeared with wildflowers. The June I spent in Alaska swinging tiny remote tributaries for early-run king salmon. The June I spent hammered by black flies while hammering landlocked Atlantic salmon in Labrador. But no matter how good the day had been, when I went to bed each night in one of these distant rivers, I was haunted by what I was missing out on back home in Michigan: Gigantic, demon-eyed trout with spots as big as your fist, and moonlit mudflats that went from calm to boiling in the blink of an eye. “Next year, I fish Hex,” I would whisper to myself in the darkness after the camp generator was killed, or the northern lights glittered forth above a horizon of spruce. But then winter would come again and some exotic opportunity would drift into view, and like a spring brook trout, I’d rise to it. And then, last year, I snapped. “No more,” I thought. And just to show the universe how serious I was, I bought a trout camp.

It isn’t fancy and it isn’t huge, just 10 acres at the end of a Kalkaska County two-track, undeveloped but for one rottedout late ’60s camper and a busted Jenga tower of a deer stand.

But it’s just a few hundred yards from a stretch of river where the swift current slows, the cobble peters out to sand and silt, and the white pine forest yields to farmland. In short, 10 river miles of the most perfect Hex water you could imagine. a fawn sloshing through a shallow riffle. A file of baby raccoons winding through the alders. All the sets of eyes, large and small, high and low, watching you from the woods.

I’d forgotten how strange and beautiful it is to row a boat through the darkness with freshly greased oarlocks, silent as a drifting log, straining your ears in the darkness for the sound of a good fish feeding. June had finally arrived, and after a long spring of daytime fishing Hendricksons, sulfurs

and mahoganies from my new trout camp, I was finally plumbing the darker side of things. The idea was to spend a week or so learning a few beats of river in the dark and waiting on the first big bugs of the season to make their appearance. Once they arrived, I’d blow a loud bugle to friends all across the Midwest with whom I hadn’t Hexed in years.

At the time of this particular outing, I had already been there four nights and felt my familiar nocturnal form returning. Like a snowshoe hare adapts to its winter surroundings by turning pale as a ghost, I commenced a series of physiological changes. My night vision improved to the point where starlight provided more than enough light to navigate the boat, and a full moon had me wanting sunglasses. My hearing had become so honed I could tell the locations of logjams by the tinkling sounds they made in the current. The song of the whip-poor-will, which for weeks had signaled the end of the fishing day, now portended the beginning.

But I hadn’t seen a single Hexagenia mayfly yet—naturally. Suffering through a fair amount of nothing is necessary for anyone interested in the beginning of anything. There’s nothing like a slab of pork belly the moment it emerges from the smoker, or watching the first deer of the season pass within bowshot of your deer stand, and there’s nothing like fishing Hex on the first night the bugs appear and the trout eat your most outlandish creations—all the exploded hummingbirds and busted boutonnieres in your fly box.

I turned a bend and glided into a long calm straightaway

where the trees opened up and the moon glazed the river in a silver trim. That’s when I heard it: down in the distance, where the river narrowed into darkness and curved to the left, the baritone rise and fall of a large trout’s head. My heart stumbled. My ears rang. I quietly drew anchor and strained my eyes at the black water flowing past me. And indeed, there was a trickle of mayflies—glowing pale yellow in the moonlight, their erect wings looking like tiny sailboats. After several years of waiting it was finally happening: Hex season was here.

I exited the boat and waded slowly along the shallow bank, aurally triangulating the fish—it rose about once a

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next three hours we moved quietly over the water through glades of moonlight, listening to the current curl over wood, watching the eyes watching us in the woods.

There was the night we almost Previous spread: While the hatch proper commences at stayed in our tents, a cool damp, dusk, eager anglers can fill the afternoon drizzly night where you wish the hours fishing weighted nymphs through beer was warm or that you had a deep, dark holes; As the hatch wears on, dry winter parka handy. Ideally trout become increasingly selective—and wary. A wide range of patterns helps seal both. We didn’t expect any action the deal on difficult fish. at all but it happened to be the very best night of the year—a minute—until it was rising no more than 20 feet away from long, slow, steady spinner fall where we all caught fish in imme, deep in moon shadow. It rose again and I counted to 40 possible places: from deep within the overhangs of leaning before making my first cast. And then I waited. With my cedars, to the crooks and crags of gnarly logjams. There was peripheral vision I could just barely detect the white wings the night of the new moon when we fished black and purple of my fly as it oozed downstream. “death hexes” and ran the boat aground six times, catching fish And then I heard a gulp. in spite of ourselves. And the night we found an old wooden I set the hook into great weight and immediately panpaddle on the bank during a pit stop, on which we scribbled icked. It was a better fish than I was mentally prepared for, the night’s best scores: Dave K, 21 inches, Hex emerger. Rob and I had no idea what sunken wood lay out where it was tryR, 21.5 inches, Hex dun. Tom H, 22.75 inches, Hex spinner. ing to bury its oversized head. But I got lucky, and moments Friends came and went. Moons rose and set. Then one later I was releasing my first big trout of the night fishing day close to the Fourth of July, after the last crew of visiseason. It was a healthy, barrel-chested, 20-inch brown, the tors had bid their farewells, I awoke in my hammock to kind of fish you catch maybe once a month at best, except at something jarring—heat like I hadn’t known since a fishHex time, where odds are good you can get one every night. ing trip to India several years prior, so blazing hot it had Thus, I opened up the revolving door of my trout camp, gummed up the hands of my watch, stopping time. There summoning friends from southern Michigan, Minnesota had been some fairly warm days in June, but this was the and Illinois. They arrived brandishing all the best accoutre- first day that promised to be insufferable for someone livments of long night floats: salmon jerky, venison backstrap, ing off the grid, and indeed, the thermometer hanging even wild turkey confit. from the tree read 95. I opened a cardboard box of soup We passed a beautiful two weeks. There was the night we and ate it cold, suffered through a hot cup of coffee, then had a seething emergence, snouts poking skyward in every did my best to submerge my entire body in a small icecalm pool as if the trout were trying to darn the moon’s refleccold creek that ran through the property. Time dragged tion to the water, during which time we caught fish on every on. Five hours before it was time to go to the river. Four cast. But then, suddenly, the bugs just disappeared, and for the hours. Three and a half. Three and a quarter. Three.

Breathing through an open mouth is illadvised when the hatch is in full swing; The hex hatch is when big fish are at their most vulnerable. Handle them quickly with wet hands before giving them back to the dark.

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By this point in my Hex journey, I had accomplished each and every goal I’d started out with, along with a few new ones I’d invented along the way, and the sane reader is correct in wondering why it was that I didn’t break camp and return to civilian life. But the fact of the matter is, once Hex fishing has you in his talons, there’s not much you can do to free yourself. The force that prevents you from leaving a large fish rising in the moonlight, even though it is in an impossible place and ignoring your flies, is the same that prevents you from packing the Jeep and heading back

pavement the last three weeks, was caked in a grime of dust so thick the taillights barely glowed. But before leaving the river, I cracked open a beer and toasted the end of the season. The sun was blooming nectarine above the treetops, and the morning birds were chasing each other from bough to bough. With Hex season over, life was about to get very different. I was going to bathe in something that wasn’t a creek and sleep in something that wasn’t slung between two trees. I’d eat my food hot. I’d put on comfortable shoes with clean socks and walk on pavement, looking straight ahead, no need to pick my steps of

“SUFFERING THROUGH A FAIR AMOUNT OF NOTHING IS NECESSARY FOR ANYONE INTERESTED IN THE BEGINNING OF ANYTHING.” –DAVE KARCZYNSKI home. You can’t help but go out night after night. You can’t river rock and root wads. And I was okay with all that. Even help but replay missed or lost fish in your head over and more than okay. over, again and again. Rather than enjoying any sort of saAs I packed up camp in the morning fog, I felt downtiation, the endless conveyor belt of flies and fish turns the right giddy. And that’s the thing about Hex fishing: The Hex angler’s desires ever more gluttonous. Instead of patonly way to know you’ve truly done it right is if you’re glad ting yourself on the back for having caught your best trout when it’s finally over. in years, you wring your hands and wonder: Is tonight the night that I catch the fish of a lifetime?

Dave Karczynski is the author of “From Lure to Fly” and coIn time, the afternoon light started to soften, and without author of “Smallmouth.” He splits his time between teaching friends around I had begun my self-shuttle procedure, consist- writing and photography at UM-Ann Arbor and chasing the ing of launching my boat at the put-in, parking the truck at bugs Up North. Follow him on Instagram: @davekarczynski. the take-out and walking the dirt road back to the launch—a journey of roughly one hour. At the halfway point, I came across a turtle who’d met a particularly grueLanding gear Go with an oversized net for Hex fishing, or some vehicular fate, its shell a conventional net with an extra deep bag. shattered in dozens of pieces. As I Fishpond sells deep replacement bags, and paused to consider the scene, it attaching them to your existing net is not struck me that I was looking into as difficult as it sounds. a metaphysical mirror of sorts, fishpondusa.com that after three weeks of solid Hexing I was also frazzled, fracAttire Excessive bug spray is bad for fly lines and bad tured and spent. My sleep was for your health. I love items with Insect Shield, poor, my diet worse, my hygiene Tackle which is built-in protection that lasts for years. only theoretical. For any newChoose a 5–7 weight rod and tippet strong Grab an Insect Shield hoody, neck gaiter, hat and comer looking to get in on Michenough to respectfully fight the fish. A 6-weight sun gloves and you’ll only need a spritz of bug igan nighttime bug action, heed strikes a nice balance between strength and dope on your face to be mosquito-proof. These this warning: Absolute Hexing stealth. And 1X or 2X tippet at the end of your line items are available from a variety of manufacturmeans you are ready to battle a substantial trout. ers, but the offerings from SIMMS are built corrupts absolutely. with the angler in mind.

But the end was near. The Flies simmsfishing.com bugs that night, for the first time Trout are most selective to spent patterns, since the Hex hatch first began, called spinners, so you’ll want to carry a few Aquatic thermometer were very sparse. Only a few fish different styles in sizes 4, 6 and 8; the 6s will be The peak of Hex season generally spans from rose. The river, also, was getting your bread and butter. Pinch down barbs to June 22 to July 4, which means the odds of make for easy nighttime releases. Carry a few hot weather are high, and water temperatures dangerously warm for trout. The emerger and dun patterns as well. over 70 degrees can be lethal to trout. The one good fish I caught was so largest fish in the system are at peak vulnerabilexhausted from the ordeal that it Light ity during Hex time, and it doesn’t take many took almost 10 minutes to revive While a headlamp with red-light functionality anglers mishandling thermally stressed fish to him. And just like that, the Hex is essential, I also strongly recommend carrying take out a meaningful portion of a river system’s season was over. a second small, high-powered tactical flashlight. largest and oldest. In case of warm water, head At the take-out, I hooked up Being able to direct light in two ways at once upstream a few miles to find cooler water, or aids greatly when it comes to clambering home seek out the nearest tributary stream, my boat and dragged it out of the in the dark. which will run cooler. inky black water one last time. My truck, which had barely seen

Essential Hexing Gear

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136’ on on Lake Lake Charlevoix Charlevoix 136’ 136’ on Lake Charlevoix

11180 Evergreen Lane, Charlevoix Charlevoix 11180Evergreen Evergreen Lane, Lane, 11180 Charlevoix

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136’ on Lake Michigan 150’toon onNMMLS Lake Michigan Michigan by volume sold | Office address: 325 E. Lake Street, Petoskey, MI 150’ Lake $5,900,000 * According $5,900,000 $4,599,000 According to to NMMLS NMMLS by by volume volume sold sold || Office Office address: address: 325 325 E. E. Lake Lake Street, Street, Petoskey, Petoskey, MI MI *** According According to to NMMLS NMMLS by by volume volume sold sold || Office Office address: address: 325 325 E. E. Lake Lake Street, Street, Petoskey, Petoskey, MI MI * According 0522_TVM_culinary north.indd 40

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4/4/22 7:57 PM

T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

dock k dock dock

N N N

AN AN

“

5, 5,

We try to support local as much as possible with what we’re putting on the menu.

photo by Dave Weidner

—PHILIP MORRISON, MAPLE + BATTER

LOW-CAL IPAS P. 43 THE BEST CHICKEN SOUP P. 43 MAPLE + BATTER P. 45 ASPARAGUS TART P. 46 LILAC SQUEEZE P. 48 Maple + Batter in Bay Harbor puts a local twist on its bloody mary with Gypsy Vodka and Mammoth Distilling’s spicy mix.

0522_TVM_culinary north.indd 41

4/4/22 7:57 PM

Shawn Schmidt Smith

4TH GENERATION ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.499.1990

Experience matters.

3 decades of experience is priceless.

Put this experience to work for you.

522 E FRONT ST, TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49686

Outdoors Newsletter Head outside with us and explore all that Northern Michigan’s woods, lakes, and trails has to offer.

Delivered to your inbox monthly:

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Flow

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The trail nirvana.

A feeling all mountain bikers seek where one obstacle melds into another just perfectly. You know it when you’ve found it.

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TRILLIUMSHORE.com Custom Homes Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com

42

Wild Card Cycle Works “Your L.B.S”

436 W. Front St. Ste.B, Traverse City, MI 49684 231.421.3187 • wildcardcw.com

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 2

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4/7/22 12:55 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Trends SESSIONABLE SIPPERS

Tree Love

Cheboygan Brewing Company 101 N. Main St., Cheboygan

Disc golf fans will appreciate the name and can design. (Non-players, let me fill you in: tree love is when the frisbee hits part of a tree and then travels in a favorable direction.) With a 3.8% ABV, this light beer has the lowest alcohol content in the group, but it’s definitely not low on flavor. Michigan Copper, a hop cultivar known for its tropical fruit punch aromas, makes the beer perfect for warm days. Available in 16-ounce cans; 115 calories per 12-ounce serving. cheboyganbrewing.com

by CARLY SIMPSON

Three local breweries share their take on a national trend: low-alcohol, lowcalorie IPAs. Pack these in your weekend cooler.

Stone Skipper

MiddleCoast Brewing Company 329 E. State St., Traverse City

J UST a BITE Homemade Chicken Soup This is no ordinary chicken and rice soup.

Husband and wife Angel and Mimi Sanchez, owners of Mimi’s Taqueria in Interlochen, have put a Mexican spin on it, adding pico de gallo, cilantro, finely diced jalapeños and crispy tortillas for a just-right salty-spicy kick. And that lime wedge served on the side? Squeeze it on top for a zesty finale.

Call ahead so you can bring some home for dinner on Cinco de Mayo, along with an order of churros, of course.

2070 J. Maddy Parkway, Interlochen mimismi.com –C.S.

photos by Dave Weidner; Cheboygan Brewing Company

don’t let the simple name fool you.

With a name like that, how can you not take it to the beach?! The 4% ABV beer is packed with five hop varieties—El Dorado, Southern Cross, Mosaic, Citra and Cascade. “Hops add zero calories to beer, so we went all in with those,” says Joel Mulder, co-owner and lead brewer/distiller. “If you’re an IPA lover, this won’t disappoint.” Stone Skipper is light and crisp, but has a citrus aroma that’ll put you in a summertime mood any time of year. Available in 12-ounce cans; 100 calories. middlecoastbrewingco.com Lil’ Huma

Short’s Brewing Company 121 N. Bridge St., Bellaire

Imagine the Huma Lupa Licious (aka brewer Joe Short’s favorite beer) as Lil’ Huma’s big brother. Both have heady aromas of pine and citrus and a gorgeous gold color. But while Huma Lupa has a 7.7% ABV, the Lil’ is just 4.5%, making it a great choice for family BBQs and all-day cornhole championships. Available in 12-ounce cans; 95 calories.

(Pssst! Also, watch for Short’s limited release of Local’s Light Lime this summer.) shortsbrewing.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0522_TVM_culinary north.indd 43

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4/4/22 7:57 PM

Sleeping Bear Woods

Two Wo oded

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

3426 Old Trail • mls 188

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57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

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Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC. Architecture by Peterssen/Keller Architecture, Minneapolis, MN.

©

Mary was suffering from chemotherapy induced peripheral neuropathy or CIPN. “My feet and hands were constantly burning - standing and walking was agony” shares Mary of northern Michigan.

Petoskey and Traverse City MI Petoskey and Traverse City MI Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com www.tmmill.com www.tmmill.com Petoskey and Traverse City MI

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2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC.

©

To learn more go to www.LiveWellTC.com or call 231-492-7600 126 Boardman Ave. Traverse City MI

© 2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC. 2021 Marvin Lumber andMarvin CedarLumber Co., LLC. © 2021 and Cedar Co., LLC.

©

2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC.

©

44

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 2

0522_TVM_culinary north.indd 44

2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC.

©

4/4/22 7:57 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Served D I N I N G OUT

MAKE BRUNCH PLANS

by CARLY SIMPSON

This month, celebrate Mother’s Day and Maple + Batter’s brand-new menu.

I

t’s fitting for families to gather at Maple + Batter. The new Bay Harbor restaurant is very much a family operation: co-owned by twin brothers, Philip and Bryant Morrison; their wives, Laura and Jamie; father, Scot; and friends Thomas Bayer and Greg Ruvolo. Opened in July 2021 in the former (and now beautifully renovated) Pancake House space, Maple + Batter is bright, modern and inviting, with wraparound windows overlooking the village’s downtown and patio seating.

For Mother’s Day, the restaurant is offering This summer, food and beverage spewatch for Maple + Batter’s cials and the first five mobile cart serving pastries, reservations will score biscuit sliders and coffee mini bouquets from at the Boyne City Farmers Petoskey’s Sweetwater Market and along the Bay Floral. Guests will also Harbor waterfront. have a chance to try the new menu that launched in early April. Share a charcuterie board with the table, then move on to the breakfast quesadilla with chorizo or apple sausage omelettes. Maple + Batter is putting its twist on the classics and using locally sourced items whenever possible, including Plath’s sausage and bacon and Gypsy Vodka from High Five Spirits.

^

photos by Dave Weidner

MAKE IT A DAY (OR A WEEKEND!)

After brunch, spend a few hours exploring Bay Harbor, which Philip says is a “hidden gem.” For a longer stay, book a room at Village Suites Bay Harbor, a boutique collection of suites and penthouses tucked above Main Street’s shops.

Maple + Batter 4165 Main St., Bay Harbor mapleandbatter.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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4/4/22 7:57 PM

T he Cu l i nary North On the Table DINING IN

A DEAR SPEAR

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Turn a humble roadside vegetable into an elegant tart for Mother’s Day.

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

A

46

sparagus is notoriously tricky to grow. Like many plants it is susceptible to weeds and weather, but it’s the fact that this perennial takes a few years to establish that causes many professional farmers to skip the May vegetable. “You’ve got to baby it along those first two or three years,” says Harry Norconk, the 74-year-old who has been farming the edible spear in Benzie County’s sandy soil since 1978. Much of the asparagus sold in Michigan comes from beyond state, even national, lines—which means those of us Up North are especially lucky to have local options. If you whiz past a roadside stand touting asparagus from Norconk Farm in Honor, Elmcrest Acres in Daggett, Gordon’s Produce in the Soo, or any other farmer who has taken the time to bring this slender spring stalk to our table, turn around and grab a few bunches.

Often, I simply toss trimmed asparagus onto a baking sheet, drizzle it with a smidge of olive oil and roast it under the broiler for a few minutes.

If I’m cooking for a crowd, however, this tart is an elegant showpiece that can easily be made in advance. Inspired by Tarte Flambée, a caramelized onion classic from Alsace, I slather puff pastry with crème fraîche before layering local asparagus atop it. The dish tolerates resting for a few hours and can be cut into as many pieces as you have guests. Raise your hand if you’re dining in for Mother’s Day brunch this year!

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 2

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Asparagus Tart Makes 8 generous pieces

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

1 8-ounce container of crème fraîche 1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard scant ¼ teaspoon salt 1 bunch asparagus, rinsed and fibrous ends removed

231.299.1020 LD • BAR $-$$ •

The Painted Lady Saloon Old-town vibes and American cuisine. 723 KOSCIUSKO ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.2487 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Papa J’s Ice Cream & Eatery Ice cream, sandwiches, hot dogs, pizza and more, plus watersport rentals. 4825 MAIN ST.,

1 Tablespoon olive oil

ONEKAMA, 231.889.4410 LD • $-$$

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed

P&L Sammich Barista Coffee, sammies, snacks. 375 RIVER ST.,

MANISTEE, 231.489.8358 BL • $-$$

zest from one lemon

2. Set a small skillet over medium high heat. Place unpeeled garlic cloves in the pan and toast, turning from time to time, until all sides have had a chance to develop some blackened spots, about 8 minutes. Place garlic on a cutting board to cool, remove the paper from each clove and smash the roasted garlic with the back of a knife, forming a paste. In a small bowl, mix the garlic, crème fraîche, mustard and scant ¼ teaspoon salt until thoroughly combined.

3. Place clean, trimmed asparagus on a platter, drizzle with olive oil and shake the platter to thoroughly coat.

4. On a lightly floured surface, unfold the puff pastry and roll it out with a rolling pin just until large enough to drape over the pan with enough dough to line the sides. Fold any extra dough over, pressing it into the fluted sides of the pan.

5. Using a spatula, evenly spread the crème fraîche mixture onto the dough, being careful to stop just short of the sides. Artfully place each asparagus spear onto the tart and bake in the center of the oven for 30 minutes, until the dough has puffed up like a parachute in gym class and the corners are golden.

6. Remove the tart from the oven and allow the dough to relax. Sprinkle with lemon zest, several grindings of fresh black pepper, a few pinches of flake salt, and let cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting into pieces to serve. –S.B.

215 ARTHUR ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4398 LD • $-$$

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the draw-bridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with pub fare and excellent craft beers on tap. 86 WASHINGTON ST., MANISTEE,

| WATER VIEW | RED HOT BEST RESTAURANT 2021 BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES UNDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

3 garlic cloves still in their paper coats

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter the bottom of a 11 ½- by 8-inch tart pan. Place a piece of parchment paper that has been folded to fit on top of the buttered surface, then butter the top of the parchment paper.

La Riviera Mexican Grill Colorful spot for Mexican food.

day. 5159 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.7133 BL • $-$$

parchment paper

Maldon flake salt to taste

• $$–$$$ •

M-22 Grill Charming eatery serving breakfast and lunch all

butter, for greasing the pan

freshly ground black pepper to taste

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734 D • BAR

River Street Station Homemade soups, sandwiches, burg-

MANISTEE COUNTY

ers and all-you-can-eat Friday fish fry. Beautiful ivy-covered deck with river views. 350 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8411 LD • BAR

ARCADIA/BEAR LAKE Arcadia Bluffs The Dining Room at Bluffs Course: Fresh fish,

aged beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan at this award-winning golf course. 14710 NORTHWOOD HWY.,

ARCADIA, 231.889.3009 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Arcadia Ice House Ice Cream Shoppe Old-fashioned

ice cream and soda shop with nostalgic décor and furnishings from the 1900s. 17073 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA,

231.889.4555 LD • $

Grille 44 Casual family-friendly restaurant with burgers, sandwiches and a broasted chicken dinner. 12951 PLEASANTON HWY.,

BEAR LAKE, 231.864.4000 LD • BAR • $$

• $-$$ •

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Ultra-fresh tacos on handpressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and burrito plates. 344 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4441 LD • BAR • $-$$

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for paninis, Mexican cuisine and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. 399 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174 LD • BAR • $$ Two Slices A fast, casual sandwich shop with housemade bread baked daily and hearty soups and salads, plus sweet treats. 719 KOSCIUSKO ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4577 L • $ Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods.

4850 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008 BL • $

Lakeside Café Breakfast served all day, plus great burgers,

sandwiches and homemade desserts. 7833 LAKE ST., BEAR LAKE, 231.970.2424 BLD • $-$$ •

T.J.'s Pub

Rosie’s Place Pizza, subs, burgers, salads and a Friday fish

fry. 9567 CHIPPEWA HWY., BEAR LAKE, 231.889.4653 LD • BAR • $-$$

MANISTEE/ONEKAMA AJ’s Pizzeria Local pizza spot. 34 ARTHUR ST., MANISTEE,

231.299.3019 LD • $-$$

Big Al’s Pizza Pizza, submarine sandwiches and Mexican food. 221 W. PARKDALE RD., MANISTEE, 231.723.6239 LD • $-$$ Bill’s Bar & Grill Classic bar with pub eats. 522 RAMSDELL ST.,

MANISTEE, 231.887.4144 LD • BAR • $-$$

Blue Fish Kitchen + Bar New American cuisine, traditional fare, vegetarian and vegan. Fab riverside deck. 312 RIVER ST.,

MANISTEE, 231.887.4188 LD • BAR $$-$$$ •

Blue Slipper Tavern Historic pub from the 1880s with light appetizers and dinner. 8058 FIRST ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.7101 D • BAR • $-$$

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs, fishfry specials and perch. 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000 BLD • BAR • $$

The Daily Bakehouse A local bakery known for its sourdough loaves. 76 DIVISION ST., MANISTEE, 231.299.1401 L • $ Diner 31 Cozy hometown restaurant with breakfast skillets, omelets, burgers. 267 ARTHUR ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4158 BL • $-$$

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired piz-

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

zas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121 LD• BAR • $-$$

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0522_TVM_culinary north.indd 47

photo by Taylor Brown

^

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4/4/22 7:57 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

BOTANICAL BEVVY

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

T

here is a route in leland that I love walking, especially in late May when lilacs bloom.

A hedge of the showy shrub appears just after a steep hill and I always pause to catch my breath, sticking my nose deep into the fragrant petals for a long, slow inhale.

My love affair with lilacs is nothing new. As a kid, I was so enamored with the peak-season precursor that when I F R O M

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.

Gitche Gumee Ciderworks’ Phillip Kelm (a 2022 Tastemaker finalist) is beloved by his peers for using wild Keweenaw apples to make dry cider.

“Phil has a passion for old world cider that’s aged in oak, fermented with the yeast from the apple and is often bone dry,” says Mike LaMotte, the beverage boss and owner at Fitzgerald’s Hotel and Restaurant in Eagle River. While Kelm hand-presses a few different bottlings, we are especially excited about the Gitche Gumee Rhubee right now, which is made using homegrown rhubarb and the perfect kiss of wildflower honey. gitchegumeeciderworks.com; $15 per 750ml bottle –S.B.

48

graduated from my crib, I picked out a bedspread with lilacs on it. Ironically, it was during my chapter in New York City’s concrete jungle that I learned that these purple petals are edible. While my Tribeca roomies spent their first post-college paychecks on shoes or handbags, I spent mine on cookbooks. One Saturday, I was flipping through Rose Levy Beranbaum’s gamechanging tome, “The Cake Bible” (Morrow, 1988), and came across a photo for her White Lilac Nostalgia cake.

There, dotted across a layer of white chocolate buttercream, were my favorite childhood blooms—crystallized with sugar. How had this foodie never heard that her favorite flower just so happened to also be edible?

This month, as your snowbird friends return North, welcome them home by snipping a few extra lilac branches—some for the vase and some for the glass. Inspired by a lemon drop cocktail, this drink’s freshly squeezed citrus lends an acidic backbone while the neutrality of a good, clean vodka lets the fragrant, floral notes of fleeting lilacs shine. Grab a bottle of Lake Leelanau’s Ice Dunes vodka (northernlatitudesdistillery.com), Cedarville’s Straights vodka (lescheneauxdistillers.com) or some other hometown hooch and toast to peak season.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

photos by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

Did you know May’s best bloom is edible? That means it’s also drinkable.

T R AV E R S E / M AY 2 0 2 2

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4/4/22 7:57 PM

^ Lilac Squeeze Serves 1 5 blueberries 2 ounces vodka 1 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 ounce Lilac Syrup (see below) ½ ounce orange liqueur Place ice cubes in a coupe glass to chill it.

In the bottom of a shaker, muddle 5 blueberries to release juice from their skins. Add ice, vodka, lemon juice, Lilac Syrup and liqueur to the blueberries and shake until cold and combined. Discard the ice in the coupe and pour contents of the shaker through a cocktail strainer and into the glass. Garnish with a cluster of fresh lilac flowers and serve.

Lilac Syrup Makes 8 ounces 1 cup water

WEXFORD COUNTY CADILLAC After 26 Depot Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults

with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. 127

W. CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526 BL • $

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. 304 N. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.5461 BL • $

Burke’s Waterfront Laidback hangout on a forested lake

with traditional American fare. 2403 SUNNYSIDE DR., CADILLAC, 231.775.7555 BLD • BAR • $$ •

Cadillac Grill This lodge-style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs

from bar food to fine dining. 7839 E. 46 1⁄2 RD., OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663 LD • BAR • $$

Cast Iron Kitchen Home cooking and a family-friendly atmo-

sphere. 621 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC BLD • $-$$

Chico’s Taco House Cute little yellow house with enchiladas,

tostadas, chimichangas and much more. 5954 E. M-55, CADILLAC,

231.775.7272 LD • $-$$

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, woodfired pizzas, grilled Angus burgers. 106 MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar and restaurant with

1 cup sugar

Northwoods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC,

1 cup fresh lilac flowers, about 3 large stems or thryses

Dockside Inn Restaurant Overlooking Lake Cadillac with a

Working over a bowl, pinch the individual lilac flowers off the plant. Much like plucking grapes off a cluster, leave the flower’s small green stem behind. In a saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the water and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. As soon as this mixture reaches a boil, reduce the heat to a low simmer and add the flowers, letting them steep while simmering for 3 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool. Using a strainer, pour the syrup into a storage container and discard the spent flowers. –S.B.

231.862.3212 LD • BAR • $$

large deck, premium steaks, pasta, seafood. 2404 SUNNYSIDE DR., CADILLAC, 231.775.9322 D • BAR • $$ •

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room Restaurant—Stellar water and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Firehouse 115 Coney Island restaurant specializing in unique

breakfasts like lemon French toast. 6080 E, M-115, CADILLAC,

231.444.6255 BL • $-$$

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an Alpenhaus-style dining room. 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 LD • BAR • $$

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks.

1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 LD • BAR • $

House of Hunan Made-to-order Chinese food. 505 N. MITCHELL ST., 231.779.0988 LD • $-$$

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club-style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL DR., CADILLAC, 231.775.5332 LD • BAR • $$ •

Mr. Foisie’s Pasties Freshly made pasties, pies, apple dump-

lings and cinnamon rolls. 154 LEISURE ST., CADILLAC, 231.779.9042 BLD • $

Primos BBQ Located inside Willow Market & Meats. Texas-style pit BBQ. 916 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.779.1575 LD • $-$$

Clam Lake Beer Company

Raven Social BBQ plates, burgers, soon-to-be-famous pou-

tine, house-brewed craft beer. 119 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC,

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib, pasta, whitefish, craft beer, regional wines, gourmet pizza, specialty salads. 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Truck Stop Specializing in smoked brisket and pork. Live

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

music, volleyball court, patio seating, full bar. 902 W. 13TH ST.,

CADILLAC, 231.884.5752 LD • BAR • $-$$

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Kelly Rewa

231.444.6396 LD • BAR • $-$$

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outdoors

BIKES & BITES ON THE TART

by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Grab your family, rent some wheels and cruise through Traverse City this summer.

Y

ou can invent a different family adventure every week on the Traverse Area Recreation Trail (TART) in Traverse City. The TART runs from one side of TC to the other (a total of 10.5 miles) with a multitude of tasty spots for meals or snack breaks along the way.

Proof ? On a random Wednesday after school, I convinced my two teenage sons to head out on a 10-mile bike ride with their ol’ Ma. The bribe: burgers and ice cream.

We parked at the parking area at the corner of Parsons and Three Mile roads and headed toward Acme on our mountain bikes. On this stretch, the TART is paved, flat and secluded with few road crossings. There are several sections of fun boardwalks, and the railroad runs next to the trail. Very occasionally, a slow-moving Great Lakes Central Railroad train will happen by and the conductor will wave at the kids.

photos by Kandace Chapple

DESSERT FIRST

We headed out at 3:30 p.m., right after school, so we had only one choice: dessert first. We biked about a mile and soon had several opportunities, all right off the trail: • Don’s Drive-In: This 1950’s diner offers a step back in time. Order one of their large chocolate shakes—it’s served in the mixing cup and can be poured into individual glasses to share. They have carhop service, too, which you can try on bikes.

• Doug Murdick’s Fudge: This classic 1964 building has become a landmark along Grand Traverse Bay. Visitors watch as fudge is cooked in copper kettles, then poured out on huge marble tables and cooled. Try the peanut butter, our fave.

• Woodland Sweets & Eats: This is where we ended up — an instant “yes” when we saw they serve Moomers Homemade Ice Cream, which was voted best ice cream in America by “Good Morning America.” The boys ordered Oreo malts, and I got cookies-and-cream ice cream. (You can order hand-tossed pizza from East Bay Pizza here, too.)

Eat in their woodsy-styled dining area or their huge outdoor covered picnic area. We sat outside with our ice cream and watched the waves move on East Grand Traverse Bay—gorgeous.

BURGER FINISH

There are plenty of places to get great food along the TART, but if you’re an evil mother like me, you’ll want to pick a spot several miles away to get the actual bike ride in.

We headed back toward TC, aiming for Oakwood Proper Burgers, 3.5 miles away. It sits a bit off the TART, but can be accessed by cutting down Riggs Alley (behind Huntington Bank) right to Oakwood’s distinct, dark blue building on Eighth Street.

Their signature? Loaded smash burgers with endless toppings on an Old Mission Bakery bun served up with a fat steak knife staked in the middle. Menu items are made with care; co-owner Leslie Bilby uses Michigan Craft Beef and knows her farmer (Tom and family) personally. She proudly uses environmentally friendly and sustainable products in everything they prepare.

We pedaled off toward the car happy, tired and full—a successful bites and bikes adventure under our belts.

Need wheels?

Rent bikes at Brick Wheels or Mission Cycles, both on Eighth Street right on the TART in Traverse City. In Acme, rent from Einstein Cycles, also right on the TART.

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and founder of the Michigan Girl Bike Club. She can be reached at kandacechapple.com.

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photo courtesy of Inland Seas Education Association

love of the land

NEW HORIZONS

by ALLISON JARRELL

A nonprofit expands, creating new learning opportunities for Great Lakes advocates young and old.

L

ast december, Inland Seas Education Association (ISEA) announced a significant expansion after acquiring a 0.7-acre lot south of their Suttons Bay campus—a development that means more opportunities for meaningful programming and environmental advocacy at the nonprofit’s waterfront property.

Potential plans for the site include a boat shop, ship maintenance space and an outdoor classroom to allow for four-season use and new year-round programs. ISEA officials say all of these uses align with their five-year strategic plan, which focuses on offering “year-round, STEM-based educational programming designed to highlight and fully utilize all of [their] shoreside assets.”

“ISEA is proud to commit to Suttons Bay and Leelanau County as our forever home, and the addition of this property will greatly enhance our future plans,” says Fred Sitkins, ISEA executive director. “The Edmund F. and Virginia B. Ball Foundation has been a critical part of ISEA’s legacy, and this partnership will ensure that future Great Lakes scientists, engineers, educators and science-literate citizens will be inspired in Suttons Bay for generations to come.”

To view ISEA’s work firsthand, stop by the main campus at 100 Dame St. in Suttons Bay, where visitors can see exhibits in the newly remodeled Education Center and request a tour of the dormitory and lab space. Those interested in helping to expand year-round programming can contact Fred Sitkins at fsitkins@schoolship.org. Check out the sailing programs offered by ISEA at fareharbor.com/schoolship or schoolship.org.

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> edwardjones.com | Member SIPC SIPC > edwardjones.com | Member > edwardjones.com | Member SIPC

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231-932-1290 231-933-5263 Rating may not be indicative of future MKT-11677A-A-AD-JDP © 2021 D. JONES & CO.,&L.P. RESERVED. MKT-11677A-A-AD-JDP © EDWARD 2021 EDWARD D. JONES CO.,ALL L.P.RIGHTS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Edward Jones ranks highest in in Edward Jones ranks highest > edwardjones.com | Member SIPC investor satisfaction with fullfull service investor satisfaction with service Edward Jones ranks highest in brokerage firms, according to the brokerage firms, according to the investor satisfaction with full service J.D.J.D. Power 2021 U.S. FullFull Service Power 2021 U.S. Service brokerage firms, according to EdwardSatisfaction Jones ranksStudy highest inthe SM SM Investor Investor Satisfaction Study J.D. Power 2021 U.S.with Full Service investor satisfaction full service Edward Jones ranks highest inSM Investor Satisfaction Studyto the brokerage firms, according investor satisfaction with full service J.D. Power 2021 U.S. Full Service brokerage firms, according to the SM Investor Study J.D. PowerSatisfaction 2021 U.S. Full Service Investor Satisfaction StudySM

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Jim Mellinger John W Elwell, AAMS® 12935 SW Bay Shore Dr, Ste 310 3588 Veterans Dr 231-947-1123 231-947-0079

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