Traverse, Northern Michigan's Magazine March 2018

WIN $2,000 IN TRAVERSE CITY RESTAURANT WEEK DINING CERTIFICATES

MyNorth.com/TCRW18

THE FOOD ISSUE

whoa!

FOOD FINDS!

5 foodies, 40 favorite eats FARM TO FLASK Discover Iron Fish Distillery MEET THE RESTAURANT IDEA MAN Harvest, Gaijin, Alley's Market, Roaming Harvest …

LES CHENEAUX’S CHEF SCHOOL Unlikely Place, Delicious Education

DRINKS

Local Rums

DINING

Comfort Foods for Chilly March

OUTDOORS Panfishing in the Melt

SEPTEMBER MARCH 2018 2017

$4.50

Foodie friendly.

CGT Dry Riesling: from charcuterie, to barbecue, to oysters on the half shell, foodies continue to rave about and pair it with their favorite culinary creations... from classy to casual and everything in between. Come see us or find some CGT near you, pair it with friends and food, and uncork your North.

An original CGT charcuterie creation.

Savor the sips.

Enjoy the patio.

Take the tour.

Cherish the views.

Stay the night.

Open daily, year round • 8 miles North of Traverse City • 12239 Center Rd. (M37) • (800)283.0247 • CGTWINES.COM

LAKE CHARLEVOIX - Waterfront Home

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3770 N. Beach Street, Bay Harbor 5 bedrooms - 5 1/2 baths 5,000 Sq. Ft. - Panoramic views $1,990,000

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5 bedrooms - 4 1/2 baths 3,570 Sq. Ft. - Guest house $2,190,000

The First Name in Second Homes 654 Croswell, East Grand Rapids | 616.940.9288 516 E. Front St., Traverse City | 231.994.2168 joel@joelpetersonhomes.com

Discover more about Up North people, places, food and events.

MARCH 2018 • CONTENTS

Features

20

26

30

34

20 » Food Finds 2018 Five bona fide foodies. 40 delicious favorite eats. May we suggest a napkin?

26 » Simon’s Bold Harvest Some say this restaurateur with the audacious run in TC’s food biz is fearless.

He doesn’t see it that way.

30 » Dining à L’École On the shore of a 36-island archipelago, chefs learn the trade based on a distilled essence of local ingredients. Our correspondent investigates.

34 » Farm to Flask That grain you see growing in the field? It’s going in the whiskey you see on the back bar. Welcome to Iron Fish Distillery, a Michigan first.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

3

Departments

MARCH 2018

9

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/ EDITOR IN CHIEF VICE PRESIDENT, EDITORIAL/EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR WEB EDITOR PROOFREADERS REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

7 Editor’s Note 9

Up North

13

March Events

17

Travel Tasty reasons to roam the North this spring.

19

Carrie Tebeau reflects on eating with her husband, our food editor.

Kate Bassett, Janice Binkert, Lou Blouin, Heather Johnson Durocher, Kim Schneider, Tim Tebeau Gail Snable Theresa Burau-Baehr

Roger Lamb Chris Hunt

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

Jim Driver Ann Gatrell Jill Hayes Meg Lau Cyndi Ludka Drew Warner

MARKETING DIRECTOR

Rachel North

OFFICE MANAGER

Up in Michigan

Elizabeth Aseritis, Caroline Dahlquist

Breanne Kerner

DIRECTOR OF MYNORTH TICKETS

45

Carly Simpson

Rachel Watson

CIRCULATION FULFILLMENT MANAGER

Longer days, fun events. Get out and about!

Elizabeth Edwards

JUNIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

The north’s 22-year-old cookie dough entrepreneur (in 750 stores and counting), new restaurants to try, Wee Bee Jammin’s big birthday, we love Dripworks’ hot cocoa, new tech for richer red wine.

Jeff Smith

GRAPHIC DESIGNER WEB DIRECTOR/ CLIENT SALES

39

Deborah Wyatt Fellows

CONTROLLER

Jodi G. Simpson

Tom Klein Libby Stallman Chris Ruszel

39 Dining Comfort food for fending off the March chill.

43 Local Foodie

Editorial & Advertising Offices 125 Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391

Bake Irish brown soda bread for St. Patty’s Day.

45 Drinks

STAY IN TOUCH

A local-rum roundup and a chat with distiller Geri LeFebre, of Ethanology.

47 Outdoors Fishing at the edge of ice.

facebook.com/TraverseMagazine @mynorthmedia

48 For Land and Water Stronger economy. Stronger community. Stronger you. Local food helps make all that happen.

On the Cover: Over the Top Burger Creation, ingredients courtesy Slabtown Burger.

Photo by Michael Poehlman

4

MyNorth.com

Enter for your chance at $2,000 in dining certificates from Traverse City Restaurant Week participants. MyNorth.com/TCRW18

Subscriber Services Visit MyNorth.com and click on “Subscriptions” to change your address or to review your account. Please e-mail other subscription inquiries to traverse@pcspublink.com or call 800.785.8632 between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. EST. Reprints Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, P.O. Box 469053, Escondido, CA 92046. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $27.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2018, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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KIDS EAT FREE

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at Sunday Brunch 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Through March 31, bring a child 10 years old or younger with you to Aerie Sunday Brunch and they eat free.* Enjoy scenic views of East Grand Traverse Bay, a variety of traditional and assorted buffet items such as an omelette station, fresh salads, pastries and desserts, and more. Aerie Sunday Brunch includes a glass of Champagne per adult.

Adults: $22.95 | Ages 11–12: $7.95 | Ages 10 and Under: Free*

Reservations are highly recommended.

231-534-6800 | grandtraverseresort.com/Aerie *Offer valid though March 31, 2018 at Aerie Sunday Brunch.

Kids 10 and Under: No Charge with the purchase of adult brunch.

Owned & Operated by the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians

Editor’s Note

The Family That Hikes Together …

BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

ANGELA BROWN

For all intents and purposes, the snow had been gone nearly a month. There was a layer of slush on the ice rink. A blazing March sun masqueraded as a source of warmth, and we were in the mood to be believers in spring. Bundling our mildly protesting clan of four kids, ages 5 to 12, into the car, we ventured out in search of fresh air and exercise, maybe even a shoulder-season adventure.

Ours was the only car parked at the trailhead for the Pyramid Point trail in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The boys had brought a soccer ball that bounced off the frozen ruts of the rock-hard trail.

We didn’t follow the clockwise trek we know: March called for counterclockwise. Just before the meadow we came upon a marked trail heading up the side of a dune, beckoning with someone’s frozen sandy footprints.

The face of the dune was frozen and scaling it required using random sandy spots as though they were foot and handgrips on a mountain’s face. Our second son, Peter, scampered up the dune like a monkey, using all fours with an ease that made for much optimism. My husband, Neal, and third son, Austin, went next, and once at the top, Neal leaned over with encouraging words and outstretched arms as I guided 5-year-old Olivia. No wilting flower, this girl, but gripping the icy terrain required more strength than she could muster. I struggled to push her from behind with one hand as my other reached to find a grip. I was considering turning back near the top where it was almost unbearably steep when our oldest, Ben, lost hold of the soccer ball. As he lunged to catch it he lost his footing and slid down the face of the dune like a luge Olympian. Liv and I were only going up.

Liv was not very happy as Neal finally got hold of her jacket and pulled her up over the edge of the dune. They disappeared. I carried on, wondering with some degree of discontent why he had not stayed to lend me a hand in getting over the sheer edge of the cliff. As I heaved myself up and over with absolutely no sign of grace, I got my answer.

We had arrived on the face of the moon in the midst of a solar sandstorm. The rolling peaks and valleys of the dunes were awash in sand that swirled in the roar of a wind that made it impossible for Neal and I to communicate without yelling. Shielding Liv with his body, Neal signaled that we should get off the top and down into a valley.

“Where is Peter going?” I pantomimed. He turned to see

Peter some distance away, marching across the top of a dune toward the water with, I daresay, the determined march of Sir Edmund Hillary. He appeared to be the man to follow, at least to Austin and the dog, who trailed in his wake some yards back. Neal headed off in pursuit as I wrapped Liv inside my jacket and together we shuffled off the top of the dune. Somewhere behind me I heard Ben as he came over the top shout, “This is awesome!”

Liv and I landed in our own hushed, stunning little world, the wind howling distantly like a memory. All around us were delicate, impossibly beautiful works of art; sand frozen into shapes both graceful and bold, their ice-tipped edges catching the random rays of the sun, spotlighting them like orchestrated lighting in a gallery. We passed the time in our magical space, finding stories and shapes in the ice sculptures.

The boys returned, cascading over the edge of the dune and into our valley with that boundless enthusiasm of boy explorers. As Liv showed them the sculptures, I climbed out of our hideaway, happy for a moment to just stand and face the wind.

Our little column must have appeared as a line of refugees as we made our way, heads bowed, toward a path we knew lay where the forest meets the dunes. Winter had taken its toll on our trail, so that it was no longer the gentle climb we knew but rather steep and jagged. Ours was not a pleasant ascent and on tired legs made harder. Periodically, Liv would wail in the direction of Lake Michigan, “This hike is a disaster!”

Once back at the top and before heading down into the shelter of the trees, we all sat munching on snacks, marveling at the vastness of the midnight-blue lake. Peter was the first to speak with an understated, “Well, that was an interesting hike.” And so it began, even before the hike was even over, the laughter that would ultimately define the day. Ben teased us, “Did you guys wake up this morning and say, ‘What a day to take the kids outside and throw them in a sand storm that embeds sand particles in their skin and temporarily blinds them,’?”

No, I thought, as I watched our kids laughing, lounging with such confidence, this is what we came for.

Deb Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse/MyNorth. debwf@traversemagazine.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

7

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8

MyNorth.com

Up North PEOPLE

NATURE

AUSTIN GROESSER FOUNDER

ARTS

NOSTALGIA

BUZZ

WISDOM

Delish Hot Cocoa New Restaurants Black Stars' Wine Tech Wee Bee Jammin's 10th CURIOSITIES

COOKIE DOUGH!

Big Dipper Cookie Dough Co. By the time you’re reading this, the number of stores where you can find Big Dipper’s egg-free, edible cookie dough is guaranteed to be out of date. In just two years, the company’s 22-year-old founder, Austin Groesser, has managed to land the company’s made-in-TC product in the refrigerator cases of 725 stores across the country. But he confided in us that the explosive path to success has been a rocky ride.

CHASE RICHMOND DIRECTOR OF ANALYTICS

So, slow-and-steady seems to be the course for most small food startups. But with the cookie dough, you really seem to have your foot on the accelerator.

Well, ever since I was a kid, I knew I wanted to start a business. My dad passed away when I was 11, and I’ve been working full-time since I was 14, so I had to grow up kind of fast. When I was 19, and I had some money in the bank, I felt like I was ready to do something, but I wasn’t really sure what. So I went through all my business ideas and narrowed it down from 168 ideas to 10, and then finally to Big Dipper Dough. I spent five months testing different flours, sugars, and vanillas, unveiled to the market in November 2015, and my business partner and I made our first sale the next month. And now we’re in more than 700 stores.

Obviously you’ve done a lot right to earn that kind of success, but what’s something you had to learn by screwing up?

Well, first, I have to say we’re a long way from being successful. When you’re young, and you don’t really have much money or experience or credibility, it’s just kind of throwing sh*t against the wall and seeing what sticks.

I still make an ungodly amount of screwups. For example, I overhired this summer. We got picked up by a large chain grocery in the Midwest, and so I hired a ton of people. But once those stores were stocked up, of course, the sales become much slower. So I had to lay off almost everybody, and we blew through all our cash reserves. Honestly, we could have gone out of business last summer; I had to borrow a bit of money from my mom just to keep us from going under. We’re back on the right track now, but August and September were pretty painful months.

OLIVIA WHITE

DAVE WEIDNER

COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR

As you know, TC is a hotbed for small food businesses. What’s one piece of advice you’d give other entrepreneurs?

It sounds simple, but get out there and demo your product. The key to us building our brand has been putting in the work, going to stores as much as they’ll let you, and doing samples. That will teach you a lot, and learning to hear the word “no” is the best way to improve your pitch. Most stores love you being there, because you’re selling their product for them. Plus, then you can take that sales data and go to the second store and show them how you’ve been successful. Then, you just keep doing that until you’re everywhere you need to be. —Lou Blouin PODCAST: CHECK OUT BIG DIPPER ...

Check out Big Dipper on the next episode of Lick the Plate March 9.

MyNorth.com/LickthePlate

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

9

INVESTING TODAY WHAT IS YOUR MONEY FOR? FORSTANDING A BETTER TOMORROW

ENDOWMENTS ENDOWMENTS || CHARITABLE CHARITABLE ORGANIZATIONS ORGANIZATIONS || TRUSTS TRUSTS || FOUNDATIONS FOUNDATIONS || INDIVIDUALS INDIVIDUALS 2226 2226 S. S. Airport Airport Rd Rd Suite Suite C, C, Traverse Traverse City, City, MI MI 49684 49684 231.933.4396 231.933.4396 || 800.499.3000 800.499.3000 || FORinvestmentpartners.com FORinvestmentpartners.com

Mecky Kessler-Howell, AIF®

Securities & Investment Advisory Services offered through Western International Securities, Inc. Member FINRA/SIPC. FOR Investment Partners & Western International Securities, Inc. are separate and unaffiliated entities.

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Up North SWEET!

WEE BEE JAMMIN’S BIG BIRTHDAY It’s been 10 years since one of our favorite off-the-beaten-path familyowned businesses got its humble start in an incubator kitchen. Fast forward to today and you’ll find the hand-crafted jams, honeys, and other items from Bear Lake–based Wee Bee Jammin’ in more than 200 stores across the country.

Owner Simone Scarpace credits their success to never biting off more than they could chew, but that doesn’t mean they don’t still have big dreams. Case in point: WBJ’s plans for expansion include a new brewery next door to their cozy storefront on Norconk Road. —L.B.

HOT!

WHAT WE’RE LOVING … … hot cocoa at Petoskey’s Dripworks, where house-made chocolate syrup and steamed Shetler’s milk are the difference makers. Order it with oat milk for a non-dairy option that’s as rich as the real thing. —L.B.

find us on

NEW RESTAURANTS

TASTE IT Northern Michigan continues to add new restaurants to the already crowded roster, and diners saw several worthy newcomers in the past year.

Fuji (Traverse City) pairs an enormous sushi menu with reasonably priced Hibachi lunches and other Japanese favorites. For Mediterranean-inspired eats, you’ll find plenty of choices at Calypso Mediterranean Grill (Traverse City), where the menu also includes a lengthy list of craft beers, wines, and house cocktails. Elsewhere in TC, we’re loving Milkweed, the new street food–focused project from the folks who brought you The Cooks’ House; and looking forward to the launch of Third Coast Bakery’s new brick and mortar, focusing on glutenfree baked goods. Farther up the Lake Michigan coast, Colin’s Corner Cafe (Harbor Springs) dishes up some tasty breakfast and lunch options, but the real draw here is the inventive lineup of cakes, cupcakes, and other homemade sweets. Meanwhile, in Manistee, the opening of The Fillmore—which combines a hip vibe with a menu heavy on local food, coffee, wine, and beer—is more proof that the Victorian Port City’s renaissance is for real. —L.B.

NORA FLEMING STONEWARE Nora Fleming is the result of love. the harmonizing of a brother and sister’s distinct skill sets to achieve one goal — to bring joy to every table and every event.

• Items available in-store only • Stop in for the current selection; new items are arriving daily.

Located in the center of the village of Beulah. Visit us at 262 S. Benzie Blvd.

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231.882.5294

RED, RED WINE

BLACK STAR FARMS BRINGS THE TECH Northern Michigan already has earned renown for white wines, but the short, temperate growing season has always made heat-loving reds a tougher lift for Up North vintners. But Black Star Farms has a new high-tech tool that could allow winemakers in the region to produce fuller-bodied, darker vintages. Last year, the Traverse-area producer fired up a half-million-dollar “flash détente” processing system, which, among other things, ruptures the grapes at a cellular level and releases all kinds of otherwise hidden, deeper qualities in the fruit. “Rather than being lean, tart cherry, or raspberry in their profile, the wines might be more dark cherry, or blackberry, or black currant,” says winemaker and Black Star GM, Lee Lutes. He says the flashed reds will still be identifiable as Michigan wines, but with the added bonus of darker colors and other characteristics you’d expect from wines from warmer climes. Look for the debut class starting with table wine blends in mid-summer, with the higher quality merlots, pinots, and cabernets coming later in 2018. —L.B.

World Famous Smoked Pork Loin, Bacon, Ham, Hot Dogs, Bratwurst, and Smoked Fish.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

11

#LETSTAKEAWALK

(231) 922-2050 downtowntc.com

in Downtown Traverse City

445 E FRONT ST � TRAVERSE CITY

Pasta Bake

231.642.5333 � sweettartlette.com

Serving high-end, seasonal pastries and confections using local ingredients

Ingredients 1 lb Delverde Rigatoni tta 1 lb Fresh Grande Rico no Reggiano

igia 1/4 lb Grated Parm

nde Whole 1/2 lb Shredded Gra Milk Mozzarella 16 oz. Jar Folgarelli’s House Red Sauce

Directions

of degrees. Bring a pot Pre-heat oven to 375 d boil and add the riga salted water to a har for about 5-7 minutes toni. Boil the pasta in the pasta is done, dra until al dente.Once . lasagna-baking dish it, and place in a to zarella, and ricotta Add the sauce, moz d. until totally combine the pasta then stir esan, don’t spare Top with grated parm er Cov top. unt over the here, put a good amo and bake in the oven the dish with tinfoil let ove from the oven, for 30 minutes. Rem minutes, and then you the pasta rest for 10 are ready to serve.

Enjoy,

e Shop

& Win Folgarelli’s Market

424 W. Front St. 231.941.7651 | folgarellis.net Follow Us @folgarellis Facebook “f ” Logo

CMYK / .eps

Facebook “f ” Logo

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Red Hot

Best 2016 Winner

37 Brookharbor S, Manistee (Harbor Village)

Traverse City Restaurant Week February 25-March 3

Downtown Art Walk May 4

Sandwiches, Soups & Salads Free Wi Fi | 231-922-8022 43 Varieties of Artisan Breads Baked Daily 601 Randolph St. • Traverse City Near West End Beach www.baybreadco.com

Sara Hard Downtown Farmers Market Saturdays

DOWNTOWN GIFT CERTIFICATES MAKE THE PERFECT GIFT! 12 MyNorth.com CONVENIENT PARKING IN THE LARRY C. HARDY & OLD TOWN PARKING DECKS

Quite possibly the very best views in Manistee for the money! LAKE MICHIGAN and Man Made Lake views from all over this 2-BR/2-BA, 2-story, top floor condo. Updated about 6 yrs ago: from every light fixture, cabinet, counter-top, painted walls/trim and outlets ... on down to the carpeting. This condo has never been rented. You’ll love the stainless steel appliances and the coveted WASHER/DRYER. The original gas fireplace has been removed in the last yr so that you now can enjoy a gas fireplace that is flush against the wall, offering more space to live and view LK MI. The deck allows you to enjoy your morning coffee or an evening tea while overlooking the sunsets. And you’ll love the heated marble floors in the bathrooms. Indoor/outdoor pools and hot tubs. And a wonderful fitness room. $219,900

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Call/Text Suzanne Riley 231.620.9561

Featured Events TIX Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

March EDITED BY LIBBY STALLMAN

SAT

FRI

THE GOLDEN DRAGON ACROBATS

FRI

2

SAT

3

SUN

4

WED

7

SUN

3

2

And More | The Golden Dragon Acrobats’ amazing artistry, beautiful costumes and props provide a visual feast. Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City. 231.995.1055, MyNorthTickets.com.

And More | Suds & Snow, the ultimate party in the woods, returns with beer, wine, cider, local food and winter fun.

Timber Ridge Resort, Traverse City. 231.947.2770, MyNorthTickets.com.

And More | Harbor Springs

Restaurant Week offers delicious specials all week long: March 2-11. 231.526.7999, harborspringschamber.com.

Art | Glen Arbor Arts Center

exhibits Works In Cloth 2015-2017, fiber constructions by Leelanau County artist Molly Phinny. Visit anytime in March. 231.334.6112, glenarborart.org.

4

SUDS & SNOW

SAT

10 SUN

RESTAURANT WEEK

Sports | Dogman Challenge Fat Bike Race winds through the trails of Mt. McSauba and North Point Nature Preserve in Charlevoix. Don’t miss the fire pit, s’mores and excitement galore!

231.237.0900, charlevoix.org.

11

SPRING FORWARD!

FRI

Music | Irish Night features traditional Celtic and Irish music perfect for dancing, paired with beer and food.

Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee. 231.398.9770, MyNorthTickets.com.

16 SAT

17

SUN

18

Sports | Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day at Boyne Mountain’s Carnival Weekend or Boyne Highlands Krazy Daze.

Spring is right around the corner!

855.688.7022, boyne.com.

Symphony Orchestra’s (Beethoven + Shostakovich) concert with international soloist Suren Bagratuni and Kevin Rhodes, conductor. Corson Auditorium, Interlochen. 231.947.7120, MyNorthTickets.com.

SUN

Literary | The National Writers Series brings Anna Quindlen, a Pulitzer Prize– winning columnist and #1 New York Times bestselling author, to the Traverse City Opera House tonight. 231.941.8082, nationalwritersseries.org.

MON

Kids | Kids can spend their

25

DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME

Music | Enjoy Traverse

26

spring break tapping maple trees, tracking animals and building a campfire. Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire. 231.533.8314, grassriver.org.

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH > EVENTS

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

13

Events

FEATURED EVENTS Look for this symbol in our Events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

TIX

3/3 & 3/17 SNOWSHOE VINEYARD TOUR & TASTING Shady Lane Cellars

3/6 BEER DINNER Shady Lane Cellars

3/10 MAGIC ON THE VINE Chateau Grand Traverse

3/10 SIX APPEAL Crooked Tree Arts Center

3/15 LUNCH WITH THE MAESTRO – BEETHOVEN + SHOSTAKOVICH Corson Auditorium

3/16 - 3/18, 3/22 - 3/25 A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM Old Town Playhouse

2/17 JONATHA BROOKE Milliken Auditorium

For more information visit MyNorthTickets.com.

14

MyNorth.com

Events Save yourself a trip. Call ahead to verify all times and dates.

Find more events at MyNorth.com.

Fairs, Festivals and Holidays

Please find more Fairs, Festivals and Holidays at MyNorth.com.

Mackinac Island Celebrates St. Patrick’s Weekend: 16-18

Revelers are invited to play snow volleyball and partake in the Annual Jamie Bynoe Street Hockey Tournament downtown. And there is plenty of Irish cheer! 800.454.5227, mackinacisland.org.

MAGAZINE WORTHY DESIGN SERVICES

Kids

Please find more Kids at MyNorth.com and/or subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Go, Dog. Go!: 4

Follow Red, Blue, Yellow and Green Dog on a madcap romp through the City Opera House, chock full of comedic antics with a contemporary edge. cityoperahouse.org.

National Writers Series Presents: Peter Brown: 18

2nd Annual Battle of the Books! A quiz-bowl showdown with fourth and fifth graders to see which of the four finalist teams can remember the most facts about the award-winning books they read. Author Peter Brown hosts at the City Opera House, Traverse City. 231.577.6971, nationalwritersseries.org.

Music

Please find more Music at MyNorth.com.

Pure a Cappella 2018: 4

The Pure a Cappella concert is an annual event benefiting local music scholarships. Listen to TC Sings, Cherry Capital Men’s Chorus, NMC Chamber Singers, Judy Harrison Trio, Sashay Quartet (featuring Quad Pro Quo) and Canticum Novum. Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City.

231.995.1553, MyNorthTickets.com.

AJ Croce: 10

From his debut as a jazz influenced blues-based artist to his evolution into a pop music iconoclast, this son of the legendary Jim Croce is a singer-songwriter in his own right. Ramsdell Regional Center for the Arts, Manistee.

231.398.9770, MyNorthTickets.com.

Theater

Please find Theater at MyNorth.com.

Legally Blonde at the TC West Senior High School: 2-4, 9-11

Follow Delta Nu Sorority Sister Elle Woods as she tries to win back Warner by any means possible. Along the way, she tackles stereotypes and scandal while proving herself to the world. 231.933.7509, MyNorthTickets.com.

And More

Please find And More at MyNorth.com.

Sausage Making Workshop: 31

Learn to make sausage from scratch. Wren the Butcher, Traverse City. 231.252.8001, MyNorthTickets.com.

Libby Stallman is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at mynorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Libby@mynorth.com.

BUILD BEAUTIFUL Kitchens planned for the way you cook.

Decks designed for entertaining. Closet systems to tame the chaos. Build beautiful form and function with the professional guidance, insights and technology of the design consultants at Preston Feather.

Tour our gorgeous design showrooms.

BUILDING CENTERS & DESIGN SHOWROOMS PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY |

prestonfeather.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

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WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. ®

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Paul M. Bonaccini Vice President, Investments ® Accredited Asset Management Specialist

Robert Fenton Financial Advisor ® Wealth Management Specialist

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Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Eric H. Palo Vice President, Investments

Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC Financial Advisor

Jeff K. Pasche, CFA Senior Vice President, Investments Traverse City Complex Manager Dennis J. Brodeur Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Trevis E. Gillow Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

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Paul M. Bonaccini Vice President, Investments Accredited Asset Management Specialist Tyne Hyslop Financial Advisor Jennifer Youker, CFP®, CRPC® Financial Advisor Eric H. Palo Financial Advisor James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS Associate Vice President, Investments Robert Fenton Financial Advisor

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Dr. •Bay Traverse City,DrMI•49684 • (231) • www.raymondjames.com/TraverseCity S West Shore Traverse City,946-3650 MI 49684 • (231) 946-3650 ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

Travel

Tasty Trips Food, glorious food! Of course it’s what we think about most when we’re making travel plans. (Wait, it’s not just my family, right?) A sampling of food-focused, worth-thetrip events making our mouths water this spring ...

BY HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

Catch a flick, enjoy a cold one. The fifth annual Dark and Stormcloudy Film Series in Frankfort queues up great food and a flick. Join fellow viewers at the historic Garden Theater March 13 for a showing of Lucky while feasting on four American Southwest courses prepared by Stormcloud Brewing Company’s executive chef, Joe Meyers. These will be paired with four handcrafted Stormcloud ales. New this year for the film series: a special beer-pairing workshop March 18. Reservations for the multi-course dinner required; just 40 seats available. STORMCLOUDBREWING.COM.

Indulge

Snack and sip. Does your go-to nightly snack taste just as good with a riesling as it does with a pinot noir? Find out during Sips, Chips & Dips, an afternoon Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail event this March 24. The tastings, from noon to 5 p.m. at participating wineries, pair everyday snacks with local vintages. Your $10 ticket includes a souvenir wine glass and a snack-and-wine pairing at each spot.

Special lodging packages available in Leelanau and in Traverse City. LPWINES.COM. Raise a glass Lake Superior–style. Toast the warmer weather at Spring

Ferment, a celebration of Michigan-made wines, brews, ciders, meads and kombuchas in Marquette. Food vendors and live music also are featured at the March 24 event at the city’s Lakeview Arena. Tickets are $35 online, $40 at the door; includes 15 drink/cheese servings and a commemorative glass. Designated driver admission is $5 at the door and includes a festival glass and two tickets for kombucha. All proceeds go to local charities. MARQUETTEHOMEBREWERS.COM.

Savor slopeside. Head to Crystal Mountain this Memorial Day weekend for

the resort’s 13th annual Beer and Brat Festival, featuring dozens of craft beers and specialty brats May 26. Jam to live music during the Saturday afternoon event—and consider signing up for the following day’s on-site North Mitten Half Marathon, 10K or 5K run/walk to break a sweat (and burn those extra calories consumed) post-party. CRYSTALMOUNTAIN.COM.

Try new tastes. One week a month, November through May, downtown

Traverse City’s Amical creates dinner menus from selected cookbooks. The popular “shoulder season” cookbook series offers a blend of cookbooks old and new (Alice Waters's The Art of Simple Food II is featured April 8–15, while Nopalito Mexican fare is the focus May 7–12). Reservations suggested. AMICAL.COM/COOKBOOKDINNERSERIES.

Traverse travel editor Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City. She is founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast. Heather and her family get outside and explore as much as possible. travel@traversemagazine.com

DOWNTOWN • 128 East Front Street Traverse City, MI • 231-941-7632 poppycockstc.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

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CHELSEA PARK II TRAVERSE CITY

Butch Broad, Developer/Builder 231-218-4965

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Up in Michigan

Learning to Eat Before I met him, tuna sandwiches made up a significant part of my diet.

BY CARRIE STRAND TEBEAU

I can still feel the birdshot between my molars in a bite of one of the most important dinners of my life. It was the autumn of our senior year at the University of Michigan, a month after we’d met, and the first meal Tim ever cooked for me. In an attic apartment amidst the scarlet canopy of the maples on Catherine Street, everything seemed aflame: the candles Tim had set out, the burner under the sizzling pan, my heart. No one had ever cooked for me like this before; the counter was an entropy of garlic and onion skins, potato peels, naked twigs of thyme. There was wine; good wine, the sort people’s parents drank. The knife in Tim’s left hand flashed with rhythmic precision. It was the first time I noticed he was left handed, and I liked him even more for the anomaly. Dinner was pheasant; Al Nick, who owned Tapawingo, the former Ellsworth restaurant, had hunted it in South Dakota and given it to Tim. At the table we made the music of eating; forks and knives clinking, wine glasses making their crystal reverberations when we picked them up and set them down again. I could make a life of this, I thought, and that’s when I bit the birdshot, the full stop it made in my mouth, as though I myself had been shot. I suddenly felt the life of the pheasant in my own mouth. I became so aware of my carnivorous proclivities, and the tight space between me, a dead bird, and a gun. I quietly spat the lead into my napkin and balled it up tightly in my fist under the table, trying to swallow my horror.

Tim is the person who taught me how to cook. Before I met him, tuna sandwiches made up a significant part of my diet. My mother always resented that the cooking fell to her.

She characterized it as an irritatingly necessary Sisyphean task. But Tim relished an hour in the kitchen, his knife and its motions a meditation. I learned to see food as regular opportunity for creativity. I learned how to shop, too, not for the ingredients to make a dish, but for the ingredients in season, the things available locally, and how to let those ingredients suggest what to make. I stopped reading cookbooks as a set of step-by-step instructions and started to see them as a discussion on methodology, flavor, and balance.

After our children were born we began crafting date nights in our own kitchen. Once the girls were in bed we’d pour glasses of wine and begin working side by side, splitting the effort of making a meal, transforming lemon, capers, parsley, fennel, olive oil, and walleye into a way of saying I love you.

When Tim began thinking that he would like to start hunting deer, I understood why. Venison is a lean, free-range, organic protein; it’s not raised in a crowded industrial barn and never faces a slaughterhouse. But as the opening day

of rifle season drew near, I found myself uncomfortable.

Suddenly my husband, a person I’d met as a sensitive poet back in college, was clad in camouflage and a neon orange hat, a rifle slung over his back. He was going into the woods with the specific intention of killing a living creature, and furthermore, in my intention to eat the meat, I was complicit in the kill.

The day he brought the deer home, he opened up the back of his pickup truck to reveal the animal on a blue tarp.

In its motionless state the body seemed so unlike the agile, timid deer I knew from the woods. Tim and his brother hoisted the deer up on ropes hanging from the pole of our backyard laundry line. The November sky was its usual nickel-colored cloudscape. A few snow flurries punctuated the air, a harbinger of the cold season to come. The deer, stiff with rigor mortis, swayed gently in the breeze, its legs comically, horrifyingly, refusing to yield to gravity.

That night Tim revealed that in the woods, when he’d gutted the deer, he had also removed its heart, which he’d carefully wrapped up and brought home for dinner. He intended to cook it as a way of honoring the deer, of thanking it for its life and the way it had provided for us. It was a way of being exceptionally close to an animal transmogrified into food. This notion closely followed the logic of what I’d learned to believe about food: that we should be close to it, know its origins, cook with whole ingredients both native and seasonal. And yet, all I could think of was the Brothers Grimm retelling of Snow White, when the hunter was asked to lead her into the woods, slaughter her, and come home with her heart as proof of the kill. Our best cast iron pan has red enamel on its outside. When the heart touched the hot pan it sang out in a sharp sizzle. Red meat in the apple-red pan: I recalled that first meal Tim ever made for me, the birdshot, my horror.

Every meal he has ever made for me has been an act of love, both for me and the food. When we eat we should be aware of what we are eating, of where it came from, of the life, death, and subsequent act of creation that made it a meal on a plate. I didn’t eat the heart; the body it belonged to still hung in our backyard. I could read the hurt on Tim’s face, the hypocrisy in my own plan to eat the deer anyway, once it was venison in neat packages in our freezer. I am still learning how to cook and how to eat and how to be in love.

Carrie Strand Tebeau writes from Petoskey. Her husband, Tim Tebeau, is the Traverse food and wine editor. crstrand@gmail.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

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food finds 2 018

FIVE BONA FIDE FOODIES. 40 DELICIOUS FAVORITE EATS. (MAY WE SUGGEST A NAPKIN?) TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU // PHOTOS BY JESSE GREEN

GRAND TRAVERSE DISTILLERY // MANHATTAN

20 MyNorth.com OUR FOODIES FAVORITE JAMS AND SALSAS

RED GINGER // COCONUT MILK GREEN TEA MATCHA ICE CREAM

ariel mokdad In one of her rare quiet moments, Detroit native Ariel Mokdad can be found in her home kitchen cooking a rich winter bone broth and chopping mint and parsley for fresh tabbouleh.

The rest of the time this 26-year-old dynamo splits her time between teaching undergraduates at Wayne State, where she’s pursuing a Ph.D. in composition and rhetoric, packing her trunk with fresh pita from Detroit-area bakeries or tasting wines to pour by the glass at Olives & Wine, her Traverse City wine bar and Lebanese eatery. Ariel loves the way in which small farms are empowering the Northern Michigan food scene. This month she’s off to explore the cuisines of Morocco.

FOODIE ARIEL MOKDAD // SIREN HALL // FRUITS DE MER TOWER

SPINACH SAUSAGE OLDS FARM | 7579 West 4 Road, Mesick | Spinach lends a bright green high note to the flavor of free-range hens in these succulent chicken sausages from Mesick’s Olds Farm.

COCONUT MILK GREEN TEA MATCHA ICE CREAM RED GINGER | 237 East Front Street, Traverse City | 231.944.1733 Earthy, herbal green tea and sweet coconut milk commingle in cold fusion bliss. Love the color.

CAVIAR & OYSTERS BOATHOUSE RESTAURANT | 14039 Peninsula Drive, Traverse City 231.223.4030 | Cold-water oysters with mignonette and a sidecar of salty black osetra caviar with blinis and crème fraîche is so worth the tariff.

TOM KHA SOUP SAMSARA | 4025 Chums Village Drive, Traverse City | 231.486.6155 A deep umami undercurrent runs through this bright and fiery Thai soup laced with chili oil, lime juice, fish sauce and fresh vegetables.

THE REVOLVER ROCKWHICH | Traverse City | 231.357.2845 Chase the Rockwhich food truck for this stack of roasted yardbird, bacon, crispy chicken skin, lettuce and tomato slathered in proprietary fried chicken mayo.

FRUITS DE MER TOWER SHOWN ABOVE Siren Hall | 151 River Street, Elk Rapids | 231.264.6062 Siren Hall serves fresh-from-the-sea hedonism with shrimp cocktail, fresh shucked oysters, mussels and lump crab calamari salad bedded in a silver tower of crushed ice.

MONEY CLIP MANHATTAN OLIVES & WINE | 201 East Front Street, Traverse City | 231.943.2850 Spicy rye whiskey, the herbal nuances of top-shelf amaro and walnut bitters conspire in this brilliant late-winter Manhattan.

NAMASTE NECTAR KOMBUCHA CULTURED FERMENTS | drinkcultured.com, Traverse City Cultured Ferment’s electric pink staple kombucha marries snappy hibiscus notes with dark berry infusions.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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chris treter Chris Treter found the inspiration to launch Higher Grounds Coffee while advocating for the rights of indigenous communities in Chiapas, Mexico. Traveling throughout the coffeegrowing world to meet with farming communities has seen Chris savoring falafel in Jenin, Palestine, beef tips served on injera bread in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, and unmatched chicken soup in Chiapas. At home in Traverse City, Chris, his wife, Shauna, and daughter, Pearl, love cooking with seasonal produce or pawing through stalls at area farmers markets. Chris values the development of our Northern Michigan food economy as a distinct reflection of our unique local culture.

FOODIE CHRIS TRETER // PÁTISSERIE AMIE // OMELETTE RATATOUILLE

RED VELVET PANCAKES RED SPIRE BRUNCH HOUSE | 800 Cottageview Drive #30, Traverse City 231.252.4648 | This decadent Southern bakery staple is reborn in breakfast form as rich red cocoa-laced hot cakes.

OMELETTE RATATOUILLE SHOWN ABOVE PÂTISSERIE AMIE | 237 Lake Avenue, Traverse City | 231.922.9645 Fresh herbs, Gruyère and a Provençal-style vegetable medley deftly folded in an airy eggy envelope.

BLUEBERRY LAVENDER JAM FOOD FOR THOUGHT | 10704 Oviatt Road, Honor | 231.326.5444 Sun-ripened Michigan blueberries boosted with fragrant lavender buds make for an addictive accoutrement to toast or triple-crème cheeses.

RHUBARB PIE GRAND TRAVERSE PIE COMPANY | 525 West Front Street, Traverse City 231.922.7437 | Chris gets as-good-as-grandma vibes from this tangy confection of early summer rhubarb, buttery crust and sweet crumb topping.

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STOKER PIZZA THE FILLING STATION | 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City | 231.946.8168 Wood-fire-roasted onions, peppers, garlic and tomatoes studded with housemade sausage and mozzarella slide into the inferno atop a crisp Neapolitan crust.

NORTH SHORE VILLAGE CHEESE SHANTY | 199 West River Street, Leland | 231.256.9141 The lines are deep outside Fishtown’s favorite sandwich shack for tasty strata of turkey, bacon, Swiss and cucumber on salty pretzel bread.

CHICKEN SHAWARMA NADA’S MEDITERRANEAN GOURMET DELI | 542 West Front Street, Traverse City | 231.947.6779 | Marinated chicken, pickled vegetables, parsley and powerfully delicious garlic toum twisted in tender pita make up Nada’s divine Middle East street food staple.

HENRY’S PIPPIN HARD CIDER LEFT FOOT CHARLEY | 806 Red Drive #100, Traverse City | 231.995.0500 Five Northern Michigan varieties lend their apple essence to this Solera Method hard cider that unites mellow, barrel-aged complexity with fresh apple flavors.

chris dennos Born to a food-loving, globe-trotting family in Long Island, New York, lifelong foodie Chris Dennos suffered something of a culture shock when she moved to Traverse City at age 14.

She recalls a formative food epiphany at 18 while tasting fresh-from-the-sea calamari on a beach in Crete. Launching a travel agency after college, Chris has traveled the world sampling nuanced pho in Vietnam and wild game cooked over open fires on safari in Africa. When she’s not sampling Chef James Bloomfield’s latest creations at Alliance, her favorite, Chris can be found entertaining in her home kitchen building lavish brunch spreads or cooking fresh pasta with lemon cream and caviar for friends.

FOODIE CHRIS DENNOS // BLACK MARKET // HAND PIES

MANHATTAN GRAND TRAVERSE DISTILLERY TASTING ROOM 215 East Front Street, Traverse City | 231.946.1259 | Drive out the residual chill with GT Distillery’s Ole George whiskey stirred with bitters, a splash of vermouth and whiskeysoaked cherries.

KETTLE CHIPS GREAT LAKES POTATO CHIP COMPANY | greatlakespotatochips.com, Traverse City | Crisp, salty thick-cut chips that encourage compulsive enjoyment to the envy of controlled substances everywhere.

CHAMPAGNE DILL HONEY MUSTARD HERKNER FARMS | 13561 South West Bay Shore Drive, Traverse City 231.947.7000 | Champagne vinegar twang dosed with honey, garlic and dill take deviled eggs to the next level.

HAND PIE SHOWN ABOVE BLACK MARKET | 144 Hall Street Suite 100, Traverse City | 231.714.5038 Fruit filling with a soupçon of tang enrobed in flaky pastry. Makes the macchiatos go down easy.

OCTOPUS ALLIANCE | 144 Hall Street #107, Traverse City | 231.642.5545 Chef James Bloomfield achieves cephalopod perfection with a three-part harmony of sous vide, flash grilling and piquant shawarma spices.

BLACKENED SALMON CAESAR AMICAL | 229 East Front Street, Traverse City | 231.941.8888 Amical delivers fresh salmon armored in scorched spices on a bed of judiciously dressed romaine with croutons and shards of Parmigiano Reggiano.

SWEET POTATO TORTA RADUNO | 545 East Eighth Street, Traverse City | 231.421.1218 Roasted sweet potato, black bean spread, Loma Farm greens and salsa macha on fresh baguette converts even the staunchest carnivores.

BRAISED BEEF TACO MAMA LU’S | 149 East Front Street, Traverse City | 231.943.2793 Mama Lu’s crew drops the taco mic with tender strands of slow-braised beef dressed with spicy tomato marmalade, onion, cilantro and a crispy sweet potato chip.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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kalin sheick Former 9&10 News reporter and passionate foodie Kalin Sheick has given up green screens for purple fields as the proprietress of Stems & Sprigs—Kalin’s floral design business and working lavender farm near the shores of Walloon Lake, where she spent summers growing up. She, along with husband, Matt, hosts an innovative dinner series, called The Gather, in their barn, which networks local food entrepreneurs around a shared meal. In the cold months, Kalin can be found slow-cooking Bolognese or chili in her farmhouse kitchen, while summer means local fish and CSA veggies on the grill. A southern-France sycophant, Kalin plans to hit up Provence to explore lavender farms and local eateries.

FOODIE KALIN SHEICK // POUR // TUNA POKE NACHOS

TAYLOR’S HASH CHANDLER’S | 215 1/2 Howard Street, Petoskey | 231.347.2981 Chandler’s signature brunch indulgence matches your martini hangover against a stuffed hash brown with bacon, Gouda, poached eggs and hollandaise. The hash wins every time.

FARM STYLE CATSUP HARWOOD GOLD | 230 Bridge Street, Charlevoix | 231.437.3900 Harwood Gold ups the condiment game with a tomato soul sauce sweetened with maple syrup from their Charlevoix sugarbush.

COFFEE ICE CREAM BRIAN’S ICE CREAM EXPERIENCE | 217 Bridge Street Unit C, Charlevoix 231.437.6037 | The small batch ice cream wizard of Bridge Street amplifies everything you love about coffee in sweet cream solid form.

JOHN CROSS SALMON PALETTE BISTRO | 321 Bay Street, Petoskey | 231.348.3321 Sage-laced brown butter sauce and butternut squash risotto sing backup for a toothsome fresh-off-the-boat slab of John Cross salmon.

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BLACK BEAN NACHOS BARREL BACK | 4069 M-75, Walloon Lake | 231.535.6000 This melty pyramid of black beans, avocado and brisket begs for an escort of cold IPA and an eyeful of Walloon Lake’s azure waters.

WHITEFISH BLACKENED & GRENOBLE SIDE DOOR SALOON | 1200 US31, Petoskey | 231.347.9291 Kalin endorses a two-pronged approach to Side Door’s fresh whitefish: a smoky spice crust taken over the top by bright lemon caper sauce.

GOTTA TRY THIS JULIENNE TOMATOES | 421 Howard Street, Petoskey | 231.439.9250 Join the afternoon queue at Petoskey’s favorite lunch spot for roasted turkey, avocado, sprouts and sun-dried tomato mayo on Crooked Tree’s Parmesan pepper bread.

TUNA POKE NACHOS SHOWN ABOVE POUR KITCHEN & BAR | 422 East Mitchell Street, Petoskey | 231.881.9800 Order a flute of champagne with these crispy triangles of housemade wonton piled with tuna marinated in ponzu and sprinkled with sesame seeds and pickled jalapeños.

nicole knapp Leelanau County native Nicole Knapp skied and traveled the world before resettling in Manistee to open The Fillmore, a hip coffee house and cafe dedicated to showcasing Michigan ingredients. A passionate advocate for Northern Michigan’s local food economy, Nicole networks area farmers and companies like Higher Grounds Coffee to supply her restaurant and is excited about businesses like the Yellow Dog Café and Iron Fish Distilling, which are putting Manistee/Benzie on the food map. Nicole’s favorite food memories trace back to the kitchen of her Grandma Lila, whose homemade chicken and egg noodle dish is a favorite in her own kitchen. A self-described sweet tooth with a crème brûlée addiction, Nicole looks forward to learning more about Thai cooking.

FOODIE NICOLE KNAPP // THE GLENWOOD // BLUE CHEESE FILET MIGNON

FARMER’S SKILLET IRON WORKS CAFÉ | 254 River Street, Manistee | 231.887.4401 Local farm fields volunteer their freshest veggies to stand alongside goat cheese, housemade sausage and fresh eggs on the front lines of breakfast.

TRADITIONAL WOOD-FIRED PIZZA THE FILLMORE | 318 River Street, Manistee | 231.887.4121 | Hand-stretched dough made daily is the canvas for The Fillmore’s signature pie of pepperoni, sausage and mushrooms.

TACO TRIO TACO ’BOUT IT TRUCK | thetacoboutittruck.com, Kaleva | 231.233.2803 Legit street-style tacos are best wolfed in threes. Taco ’Bout It makes it easy with a trifecta of chicken, pork and beef.

FAJITAS THE ROADHOUSE | 1058 Benzie Highway, Benzonia | 231.882.9631 Magnum salt-rimmed margaritas quench the fire between bites of sizzling chicken and steak, grilled peppers, guacamole and housemade salsa at Benzie’s Tex-Mex watering hole.

ESCH ROAD PEACH SALSA FOOD FOR THOUGHT | 10704 Oviatt Road, Honor | 231.326.5444 Summer peach sweetness lends verve and versatility. Dunk chips or serve it with grilled fish.

TRUFFLE BROWNIE THE DAILY BAKEHOUSE | 76 Division Street, Manistee | 231.299.1401 Crispy corners and liberally drizzled caramel guard a fudgy inner sanctum.

Get there early before they sell out.

BLUE CHEESE FILET MIGNON SHOWN ABOVE THE GLENWOOD | 4604 Main Street, Onekama | 231.889.3734 Marbled tenderloin picks up a dose of moxie from tangy blue cheese cream sauce at this resort-town icon.

WINE & CIDER FLIGHTS DOUGLAS VALLEY TASTING ROOM | 431 River Street, Manistee 231.887.3333 | Sip your way through the vineyards and orchards at Douglas Valley paired with charcuterie boards or Nicole’s favorite, Halloween candy.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com // Photographer Jesse Green shoots commercial, wedding and lifestyle photography from Detroit and Leelanau County. Jessedavidgreen.com.

WANT MORE? Check the MyNorth food pages for more eat and drink! MyNorth.com/food_drink

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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...he’s fearless .

SIMON’S BOLD HARVEST

SO MANY RESTAURANTS, SO LITTLE TIME. MEET SIMON JOSEPH, THE MAN BEHIND THE MINI-EMPIRE SPAWNED BY ROAMING HARVEST FOOD TRUCK.

TEXT BY JEFF SMITH // PHOTOS BY JON-PAUL ALLGAIER

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I

asked a friend of mine, a man who’s part of Northern Michigan’s food and microbrew scene, if he knows Simon Joseph. “Yeah. I do,” he said. I explained I’m doing a story on Joseph, asked my friend what he’s like. “Cool guy. Home-grown. Awesome chef,” he said. He paused a moment. “Also ... he’s fearless.”

Fearless—about the restaurant business anyway—seemed to fit from what little I knew of Joseph based on casual observation of his nearly audacious run in Traverse City’s food scene. In 2012 he opened TC’s first high-profile food truck, Roaming Harvest, a Latin-Asian-multi-ethnic concept (Korean Beef Tacos, Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts, that sort of thing.) that built an instant fan base. He then led the initiative to pass a food truck ordinance—paving the way for himself and, of all things, competitors, and helped ignite food truck dreams all over the north.

In June 2014 Joseph opened Harvest restaurant, a brickand-mortar iteration of his food truck. Then in June 2016 he unveiled TC’s first ramen shop, Gaijin. About a year later, he moved Harvest to bigger digs on Union Street and turned the original Harvest space into Alleys, a market and pizza place specializing in Detroit-style pizza pies.

Assuming you got lost in all that, basically Joseph opened nearly one new venue a year during each of his first five years in what’s considered by many to be one of the Midwest’s most crowded and highly competitive restaurant markets.

Each of Joseph’s venues was inventive. Each was smart. Each delivered high quality. Each had an ephemeral element of fun and sharp surprise that satisfied both the intellect and the soul.

And what I hadn’t even known about was the expensive imported Japanese ramen noodle machine that might be the foundation of the next venture: selling fresh TC-made ramen at retail.

On a morning in early November I walk through a windowless brown metal door that has Suite 104 Gaijin Ramen stenciled on it to find Joseph alone in what he calls “the noodle factory.” He typically makes ramen alone, but the room is 25 by 40 feet with a 12-foot ceiling, and Joseph and the ramen machine take up such a small space that it feels like a one-man act on a way-too-large, very bright stage. Joseph’s favorite podcast, “How I Built This,” plays from a speaker. It’s a show about the trials and tribulations of entrepreneurs.

Joseph concedes he is something of a science nerd, and it’s on display this morning. He’s standing at a counter with Pyrex beakers and Pyrex stirrers and a digital scale. He’d look like a scientist if not for the brown Bolshevik-style billed cap, gray Roaming Harvest T-shirt (slogan: Eat standing up) and jeans. He’s in the midst of weighing potassium carbonate and adding the white powder carefully to the beaker of filtered water. “Potassium carbonate doesn’t like to go into solution, so you really have to stir it,” he says. And so he does. Stir, stir, stir, stir, stir, stir, stir ... the glass stir-stick clinks rapidly against the beaker wall. He’s staring at the swirling suspension, eyes peering from below his trademark cap. He’s focused, intent, waiting for the white flecks to dissolve and disappear.

“Ramen was originally a Chinese noodle,” he says, glancing up, but still stirring the potassium carbonate. “And where they originally made it, the lake where they got the water had naturally high concentrations of alkaline salts, which made the noodles really bouncy and gave this interesting texture.” When the potassium carbonate finally dissolves, he pauses to turn off the podcast, and explains that the potassium carbonate also reacts with the high-gluten flour to give it the yellowish color.

Japan’s love affair with ramen started after World War II, when American high-gluten wheat was imported to the country. “The Japanese really liked that texture part. The high gluten noodle was even more slippery and bouncy and there were lots of interesting things about eating a ramen bowl, more than just the flavor,” he says. The soft egg, the bouncy noodles, the hot broth, “the real unctuous pork.”

(Unctuous: smooth and greasy in texture and appearance.) In Japanese culture, food texture, mouthfeel, is very important, he explains. By now Joseph is sifting flour into the ramen machine’s hopper, and the sound of the sifter—sift, sift, sift, sift, sift, sift, sift whispers through the noodle factory space, the locally grown, locally milled wheat becomes a white rain into the mix.

The ramen machine doesn’t extrude the noodles (that is, it doesn’t push the dough through little holes to make a noodle).

Instead, the machine creates a flattened sheet of dough and then cuts the dough with a finely machined cutting dye.

“But I noticed that one of the blades got a tiny nick in it somehow,” Joseph says. He shows me a set of cutters sitting on a shelf, and we zero in on it to scrutinize the microscopic chink. “It was leaving a little nick in the noodle,” he says.

He pulls out a piece of emory cloth (sandpaper for metal things) and, in the middle of the interview, starts to gently sand the rough spot. “It’s a bummer because these cost like $1,200 apiece, but it’s already somewhat ruined I guess, so how much damage can I do with a piece of sandpaper?”

He could take it to a machinist ... but “I’m a fan of, if I can do it myself ...”

So Joseph is a self-professed science nerd. But by the time he’s done with the noodle lesson, I realize he’s also into history and also culture and he knows how to correctly use the word “unctuous,” and he’s a DIY guy. In short, Joseph is doing his research, keeping an eye on the quality and paying attention to the details.

The ramen machine was expensive—he asks me not to publish the price—but if he were buying high-quality, fresh ramen, the cost would have been $2 per-serving at Gaijin.

With the machine, he can cut that unit price to 35 cents. “You can see it pays for itself pretty quickly,” he says, as the first sheet of dough comes out of the machine. He’s contemplating using the machine to make ramen to sell in stores.

Simon Joseph grew up on the shore of Lake Michigan in Onekama. He was from a Polish family, so he was raised with homemade cooking and a diet of the classics: kielbasa, sauerkraut, pierogis, golumpki and paczki. “My great-grandma would go to the church in Manistee to make paczki with the nuns,” he says.

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Is fearlessness the magic fuel?

His first job was washing dishes in a bowling alley restaurant. It was a bar with standard fare, like burgers, pizza and Manistee’s version of Mexican food. “I still have an affinity for the wet burrito because of that place,” he says. “… It’s true.”

As he edged into his late teens and early 20s, he worked the circuit of Benzie County restaurants. The Manitou, JoAnne’s, the Cabbage Shed, even Ray’s Coffee Shop in TC, for a spell.

And when he hit the road, the food industry allowed him to roam America’s byways, and he easily found work in Seattle, Del Ray Beach, Florida, Seward, Alaska. “If you are good at hospitality, you can go anywhere and get a job.”

But when Joseph got married, he and his wife, Rebecca Brown, were on opposite schedules. He tired of missing birthday celebrations, holidays, and date nights, so he changed careers, opting for construction. He loved construction for its attention to detail, the use of geometry, the satisfaction of building something like a house, but he missed the adrenaline of the food biz, the urgency, the crush of an insane night in the kitchen. And, he discovered that he’s a hospitality guy at heart. He missed that too. “I’m the guy at the party who’s in the kitchen all night and then doing dishes at the end when the party’s over,” he says.

In 2009 he started thinking about a food truck, noticing that there were none in Traverse City. “I researched and researched it,” he says. “Basically that means a lot of web surfing.” And with the help of his CPA—and now business partner—wife, he put together a business plan. He found a rig for $3,500 in Grand Rapids, a retired delivery truck for a linen company, and put his construction skills to good use installing the kitchen. Back in 2012, the first place he parked Roaming Harvest was by Munson hospital, at the corner of Elmwood and 7th Street. He put the word out on social media, let people know he was ready to sell his first Korean Beef Taco. “We opened the window and somebody was standing there, and I was like, holy s**t! This is gonna work!” he says. He laughs, like he can still barely believe it.

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Fast forward five-and-a-half years from that opening day to early winter 2017. It’s 9 a.m., and Joseph is sitting in a booth in Gaijin. The ramen shop doesn’t open for a couple of hours, so it’s quiet except for the occasional clank of a pan lid or sound of a walk-in cooler door opening and closing as the prep cook does his work. The moment seems right to reflect on how far and how fast Joseph has traveled since that first food truck taco.

Is fearlessness the magic fuel? “People say I’m fearless, but I don’t really see it that way,” he says. “I think of it more like I see opportunity and I pursue it,” he says. He, in fact, denies that being focused on fear or even being focused on money, is helpful.

“Fear of failure, money, those can’t be the first goals if you want to be successful in a restaurant. It’s hospitality and comfort. If that’s not our focus, the money will not happen. About 80 percent of restaurants fail at year two.

But we are still here. Why? We are focused on the service, the hospitality, the comfort.”

He pauses, looks around Gaijin, much of which he spent time on doing a light remodel himself in recent months.

“The whole chain restaurant thing is crumbling,” he says.

“Corporate CEOs have no idea about restaurants. Their jobs are numbers. Efficiencies. For them, it’s not about creating comfort. We’re about creating comfort. Fear doesn’t even enter the equation.”

Jeff Smith is editor of Traverse. smith@traversemagazine.com. // Jon-Paul Allgaier photographs lifestyle, food, product and weddings from his base in Traverse City. greyscalegroup.net.

JOSEPH SHARES A RECIPE...YUM! Get it here!

MyNorth.com/simonjosephrecipe

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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Dining á LÉcole A TEMPLE OF FARM-TO-TABLE—AND EVEN FOREST-TO-TABLE—LEARNING HAS RISEN ON THE SHORE OF A 36-ISLAND U.P. ARCHIPELAGO. OUR CORRESPONDENT INVESTIGATES THE OFFERINGS. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

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rossing the Mackinac Bridge has always induced a complex Pavlovian response in me: a twitch in my casting arm from my favorite muskie river; a tickle of pebbles underfoot from the Porcupine Wilderness lonely coast; a full-body heat wave from my friend’s Ottawa Forest brook trout camp, and the woodstove sauna that still hasn’t met an ill it can’t cure. All these Upper Peninsula favorite things have in common the fact that they are west, even far west, of the bridge. But today, in a moment of cognitive dissonance that even the Jeep registers with a stutter, I do something I’ve never in 12 years done. I exit east.

The eastern U.P.—by which I mean the far eastern U.P.—is a sort of hinterland of my Michigan imagination, and nothing is more mysterious to me than the Les Cheneaux archipelago.

If you haven’t heard of this cluster of 36 islands that creates a network of calm bays and lucent channels perfect for sailing, boating and fishing, here’s your primer. Back in the industrial revolution, the region was where industrialists from Chicago, Detroit and Toledo went with their families to escape the heat and smog. Today, this watery realm is full of quirky towns, miles of hiking trails, and the raison d’être of my voyage up from the South Mitten, the Les Cheneaux Culinary School, which for four years has been bringing the diverse spoils of the Eastern U.P.’s farms, forests and fisheries to the proverbial table.

It’s this hyper-local, proudly regional commitment that makes LCCS unique among culinary schools. And it wouldn’t be possible without the school’s main engine, Chef Zach Schroeder, a lifelong resident of the Upper Peninsula who has been fishing, foraging—and cooking—for most of his life.

“We’re really proud of what we’ve been able to do here,” Chef Zach says as I shadow him during dinner service. Or, at least, I try to shadow him. Zach seems to be in at least three places at once, chopping over here, instructing there, searing, slicing this, tasting that. It’s the work ethic of someone with the highest regard for honest labor, whether it’s his own, that of his students or of the farmers and ranchers who back their trucks up to the school’s back entrance several times a week. At LCCS, whatever comes in the door goes on the menu—that night.

“To be a true farm-to-table restaurant,” Zach explains, “you can’t ask a farmer for a certain product, and you also can’t pass on anything they offer: You buy what they have,

when they have it. I’ve never turned down an adequate product at a fair price.”

This buy-everything-first, figure-out-a-use-later approach encourages, even requires, Zach’s students to be extra creative.

“He lets us play, lets us experiment with things like this,” one student says, pointing to a pile of garlic scapes and spring onion greens she’s preparing for fermentation. When I ask what she might use it for, she pauses and gets a dreamy look on her face. “It’s going to have a savory and spicy taste, a sort of kimchee, so I could see this on top of a faro risotto in a few weeks’ time.” Here she closes her eyes and squints at something on the other side of her lids. “Topped with a strawberry-bacon jam.”

Running a restaurant is often compared to captaining a ship, but how often does the nautical comparison also extend to the décor of the dining room? With its rustic wood walls, heavy wooden beams and view of Hessel Bay, the dining room in which the culinary students serve up final drafts of their latest homework could be the deck of a Spanish galleon. I sit down at my table as the room slowly fills with laughter, rattling of ice-cubes and a keen sense of expectation.

Sipping a cocktail based on a rhubarb vodka made in-house and looking over the menu, it’s probably accurate to say I’ve never been quite so ready to eat.

The first dish, a salad of bitter greens and Johnny JumpUp flowers, is full of color, creativity and, perhaps most important, connectivity: the flowers and pea tendrils come straight from the garden of the culinary school’s next door neighbor, Picklebelly Point, a gift shop owned by Les Cheneaux resident and author Bonnie Mikkelsen. With its bright colors, complex textures, and lingering aromatics, the salad sends a clear, appropriately maritime message to the senses: it’s all hands on deck tonight.

The next dish, a whitefish cake, is Chef Zach’s regional answer to the classic Boston crab cake but also something more. Zach explains: “When I was undergoing chef training in Traverse City they didn’t touch on the subject of Great Lakes fish—despite the school being right on the lake. That didn’t feel right.” His fish cake is a rejoinder to and redemption of that unfortunate elision. A Jerusalem artichoke purée serves as the base for the dish, followed by a nest of wilted Indian spinach.

My first bite is a game of Twister on the tongue: the tender Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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press of the savory, spicy, and aromatic fish; the subtle nuttiness of the beurre blanc; the salty crunch of the capers; the juicy bursts of pickled sweet corn.

Words sometimes fail in expressing the deliciousness of food, but actions don’t, and for my second bite I pick up the biggest fork on the table and turn my chair so that no one can see me eat.

The next dish, an au poivre bison filet so tender you can almost spoonslice it, comes from a ranch just a few miles north of the school. In this, as in all Chef Zach’s creations, there’s a care—and carefulness—to feature ingredients in their most flattering light. Here the peppercorns get an almost Zen-like treatment: “Usually with an au poivre, you’d first pepper the filet and then sear it,” Zach explains, “but we find that it adds an astringency to the pepper. So we simply salt the meat and butter baste it, and save the peppers for the sauce and garnish.” My first bite reveals Chef Zach’s instincts to be superb.

The three varieties of peppercorns form a subtle polyphony of heat tones, and they all have a different job to do. The bright vibrancy of green peppercorns enlivens the cognac crème sauce, while the earth-heat of the black peppercorns gives structure to the filet.

And then there is the tart pop of the occasional pink peppercorns—there to keep all eaters on their toes with every bite. After a few bites I turn my attention to the raft of roasted asparagus, on top of which appears to be a mound of crumbled feta. But it’s too soft to be cheese.

“That’s thyme snow,” Zach clarifies.

“We take maltodextrin and mix it with a thyme infused oil until it turns into a kind of a powder.”

I finish almost everything on my plate and then take a quick walk onto the patio to recuperate. In a different kind of perfect world I would take an hour—or a day—to prepare for the grand finale—a seared duck breast with wild rice pilaf, orange gel and spruce tip air—but today the show must go on. For strength of stomach I summon some of my inner Jim Harrison, quite possibly the greatest gourmand the North Country has ever seen.

Back at my table, Chef Zach—and

a particularly toothsome duck—are waiting.

“This duck is raised near the Soo by some Amish friends of ours, and the pilaf was cooked in a broth made from mushrooms foraged just a few miles from here. For the garnish we take foraged spruce tip juice, which is very acidic, and mix it with an alkaline component that creates these very stable bubbles.” It’s a perfect poem of land and lake, forest and fowl, but as I chew I note another tonality—something aromatic and smoky. This, it turns out, is an ash onion purée. In the same way Zach doesn’t waste any of the produce farmers bring him, he also doesn’t waste any heat energy generated from other cooking processes, especially when that heat comes from wood. “We smoke our bacon in-house, and once we take the meat out of the wood smoker, there are still a lot of coals going. So we throw whole green onions with their skins onto the embers overnight. Then the next morning we remove the burnt skins of the onion and purée the rest in the blender with a little bit of butter.”

I’m too full for dessert, but after dinner service is over I enjoy an espresso with Zach at the bar. It’s dark by now, and night-hatching mayflies are resting on the opposite side of the window, shaped just like the sailboats bathing in moonlight out on the bay. The bugs are hexagenia limbata, the biggest mayflies of the year, and I rest easier knowing that the fish are also eating well tonight.

Over a night cap, talk turns to the future of the culinary school, and I ask, given how successful the school has become, if there are plans to expand.

“We want to keep this particular program intimate,” Chef Zach replies, “with between 13 and 16 students. So I wouldn’t want to change anything about this facility. Rather I’d like to see the number of similar facilities in this area—and even other areas—grow.” Zach explains the type of compounding positive impact a place like this has on rural farming communities: “Having people like me, who will buy everything and anything, fights against monoculture in farming. Farmers have the freedom to grow more diverse crops, which is good for biodiversity, good for the soil.

It’s a win for everything and everyone.”

The next morning, I leave my hotel with a spread of leftover boxes on the dashboard, bound for one of those beautiful “secret spots” that sometimes, but not always, lives up to billing.

This one—a secluded beach that one of last night’s diners told me about—is just what it was promised to be. I lay brunch on a large boulder and look out over the water as the forest starts to come alive with bugs and birds.

The shadows of cruising smallmouth bass appear and disappear beneath the shimmering sunlight of the bay, and I make note to bring a fly rod on my paddleboard later in the afternoon. I finish my morning coffee and then start to eat with my hands, scooping each box clean of its victuals before moving on to the next, like an otter with a feast of clams. A waft of wind brings the smell of sunbaked spruce out of the woods just as I’m biting into the spruce-air duck, and for a moment I can’t tell where the forest ends and my tongue begins. And maybe that’s the true beauty of a cuisine as local and thoughtful as Zach’s, that it shows us the connections between all the things around us: the forests and farms, the lakes and fields, even—here I nod in thanks to the nameless stranger who steered me to such a perfect brunch spot—each other.

Dave Karczynski is a writer and photographer based out of Ann Arbor, Michigan. You can reach him at dekarczynski@gmail.com.

WANT TO CHEF?

Les Cheneaux Culinary School admits up to 16 students per year. The program lasts one year and runs non-stop from September to September (the third Monday in September to the day after Labor Day). In addition to the constant tutelage of Chef Zach, students receive instruction from a host of visiting experts with specialties in everything from butchering to baking to chocolatiering. Application deadline is September 1.

INTRIGUED BY LES CHENEAUX? Learn way more!

MyNorth.com/lescheneaux

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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GRAIN FIELDS SPREAD ALL AROUND AND A SHINY DISTILLATION COLUMN RISES RIGHT ON SITE. WELCOME TO IRON FISH DISTILLERY, WHERE SPIRITS ARE AS LOCAL AS THEY CAN BE.

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T

he hunt for Iron Fish Distillery can be complicated.

Drive 33 miles southeast of Traverse City, past a half-dozen half-hidden lakes, miles of forests and remote Benzie County cabins and still, there are no hints that a sophisticated, modern distillery lies just ahead, down a gravel road–and barely beyond the Manistee county line.

Then a modest, well-tended farmhouse and several outbuildings appear. Next comes a massive barn that shows extensive updating.

Finally there’s a visual jolt when you spot a new, 5,000-square-foot building that sports a pair of massive, state-of-the-art copper stills, each of them 22 feet tall.

On the day of this visit, the sun shines. The temp is warm. Musicians are knocking out blues tunes on the patio.

Small groups of adults sit side-by-side in Adirondack chairs and talk. Some sip cocktails. Children run around the yard.

All of this is part of the appeal. The family-friendly atmosphere shouldn’t come as a surprise. Iron Fish is after all a family enterprise, owned and run by Richard Anderson, his wife, Sarah Anderson, Sarah’s sister Heidi Bolger and Heidi’s husband, David Wallace.

Get to know them, and you realize that they also happen to be close friends.

In the best possible way, Iron Fish’s remote locale and flat terrain remind me of an old saying about my home state, Kansas: “On Saturday morning, you can see your Sunday guests on their way.”

Dense woods surround Iron Fish, but mostly at a distance.

Large fields and big, open skies dominate the landscape. I grow nostalgic watching a large combine harvest wheat right across the road from the distillery, and it’s pleasing to notice that beautiful, deeply green rye grows right up to the parking lot.

“There’s a bit of a hidden gem aspect to this place,” Richard says. “Sometimes people’s expectations are low when they drive down this dirt road the first time. This is an authentic experience. It’s about as real as it gets.”

It makes sense that one Iron Fish gin bears the name Slightly Lost.

All that good vibe-setting aside, how Iron Fish performs its core business is also surprising and rare: it’s Michigan’s only farm-based distillery, or as Richard, who acts as my tour guide, is quick to point out, “At least we’re the state’s only legal farm distillery.”

The wheat being harvested today, and soon the rye that still

bends in the afternoon wind, will form the basic ingredients for those beverages everyone is enjoying out on the patio.

In a sense, Iron Fish is a surprise even to its owners, all four of whom have worked hard these past few years—and obviously invested a whole lot of money—to make this happen.

The original idea was to turn the 120-acre farm, which was abandoned and run down, into a quiet retirement retreat for the close-knit, extended family. A spot to do a little gardening, maybe raise some hops and enjoy the nearby Betsie River.

“We laugh about it now,” Richard says. “We wanted a quiet little place.”

Before that could happen, though, a trip to Scotland’s venerable Kilchoman Distillery on the Isle of Islay changed everything.

“On the flight back, we said to ourselves, we can return this farm to production and use the grain to make whiskey,” Richard says. All four partners bought into the scheme and went to work. Plans started taking shape. The idea of laid-back “golden” years disappeared in a rush of excitement.

There was plenty to do. Learn about whiskey making.

Buy a commercial-grade still from German maker Kothe (wait time 21 months). Study Michigan’s craft spirit market (less than 1 percent of state spirit consumption). Design the multi-purpose structure that would house the distillery operation, rick room (warehouse for aging), tasting room and small kitchen.

It would be wrong to think this was a romantic lark. Well, mostly wrong. There is a bit of dreaming to all this, as when Richard expands on his vision. “This might turn out to be like the farm distillery we visited in Scotland. It was almost like a monastery,” he says.

“Maybe this could be a working farm for the next 300 years.”

At the same time, each of the four owners knows how to start a business and make it thrive. Richard was in economic development in the Upper Peninsula. Sarah is a consultant.

Heidi is a CPA. And David is a veterinarian with his own practice in Saginaw.

Together, they developed a business plan that encompassed farming, marketing, distilling, managing employees, distributing the finished products around the state and creating a welcoming atmosphere for customers. What they didn’t know, they learned from others.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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But first came the monumental job of fixing up the farmhouse and barn and the slow process of bringing back into production fields that had been idle for at least 15 years—all tasks that might have overwhelmed many a startup venture.

“We took 10 tons of moldy hay out of the barn,” Sarah says. “We used tarps. There was no other way.”

Today the barn, now cleared out and structurally reinforced, serves as a venue for weddings and other special events. The farmhouse, which was nearly in tear-downand-start-over condition, is now fully remodeled and rented to guests. And the once-forgotten fields are well kept and productive.

“In the beginning, only one visitor to Iron Fish in about 20 said we’re smart to do this,” admits David. “But we’re starting to hear more and more that they’re happy we did this. They’re moving from incredulous to thanking us.”

Dig a little deeper, and you begin to understand why this ambitious, multi-layered experiment works. I think it’s because Sarah, Heidi, Richard and David use their heads and their hearts.

“We make data-driven decisions about things that affect the budget,” Sarah says. “That’s why we’re able to move through decision-making pretty rapidly.”

David agrees, but adds another dimension—one that speaks more to the heart. “Anything about the business that might get in the way of the family, we’re not going to do it.

Family comes first.”

Iron Fish follows the five steps of traditional whiskey making: malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation. “The only one of those steps we don’t do here is malting,” Richard says. “That’s done at a malt house. In our case that’s at Great Lakes Malting Company in Traverse City.”

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Wheat vodka, gin, rum, and a couple of finished bourbon whiskeys are for sale at the distillery and at retail sites, cocktail bars and several Michigan restaurants. Estate whiskey is still aging. “We have a lot of whiskey going into barrels that will be sitting there for years,” David says.

For all the precision and planning, there’s one step during the aging process that no one can control—the “angel’s share,” a nifty term for the 2 percent or so of barreled whiskey that is lost each year to evaporation.

Despite, or maybe, because of its location, Iron Fish is becoming a destination. Many first-time visitors become steady customers. In winter, a woman who owns a condo at Crystal Mountain skis to the distillery once a week to meet friends.

There are plenty of guests representing the older generation, but an energetic, 20-something wait-staff also helps attract a younger demographic.

The limited, on-site food service is currently augmented by visits from a popular local food truck. But that’s about to change. The addition of a new 5,000-square-foot building will free up space for a large wood-fired oven and allow for an expanded menu that will include pizzas and other dishes made with locally grown ingredients.

“Build it and they will come,” is an adage come to life at Iron Fish. And once they get there, most visitors like the experience. “They’re interested in the open, working landscape. It’s not manicured like in a vineyard,” Richard says.

“These days, not a lot of people have spent time on a farm.”

At its roots, the entire undertaking is a return to a time when distilling was considered a part of many farms. Then whiskey-making became a corporate venture and Prohibition (1920 to 1933) took its toll. In earlier days, homemade whiskey could be used for bartering (and, of course, drinking).

In fact, this very farm once had its own working still. (Some original distilling equipment remains.)

Evidence of that interrupted history shows up in a photo that hangs in the tasting room. It shows Wexford County Sheriff Charles H. Nixon proudly displaying some 80 stills he and his deputies confiscated from area farms.

“We always joke and ask, ‘how did that guy get reelected?’ ” Richard says. “At that time, there must have been more people distilling than in the church pews.”

All the owners of Iron Fish have a clear sense that they are, in a way, re-creating the past. They also believe there is a bright future in this business.

“We’re just at the beginning of where the state’s craft brewing movement was 15 years ago,” says Richard, who also thinks the growth of craft distilling can widen the local market for Michigan-grown grains.

“What we’re doing is returning spirits to their origins by controlling everything from soil to finished product,” Richard says. “We’re all about bringing flavor back to spirits. And visitors seem to pick up on the passion we have for the next phase of our lives, and find it inspiring.”

As he looks over the wheat field and a patio full of guests on a warm summer’s day, Richard grows reflective. “For us, the work here is never done, but the enjoyment isn’t either.”

Clark Miller writes from Traverse City. clark@clarkmillercommunications.com // Andy Wakeman is an editorial and commercial photographer proud to call Northern Michigan home. andywakemanphoto.com.

LICK THE PLATE PODCAST: Iron Fish talks whiskey.

MyNorth.com/LickthePlate

THE SLEEPING BEAR COCKTAIL • 2 ounces Iron Fish Michigan Woodland Gin • K ounce honey syrup* • K ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice • lemon twist for garnish Pour first three ingredients into a cocktail mixing glass, top with ice, shake and double strain into a chilled champagne or martini glass.

Garnish with fresh lemon twist and enjoy!!

HONEY SYRUP Heat equal parts honey and water in a saucepan until the honey melts into the water. Cap and store in the fridge.

—Sarah Anderson, co-owner Iron Fish Distillery

IRON FISH HOSTS PUBLIC AND PRIVATE EVENTS • Live music on a regular basis • Outdoor films (projected onto the wall of the old barn) • Fundraisers for nonprofits • A Kentucky Derby celebration featuring mint juleps and a race with retired thoroughbred horses from a local farm (the event raises money for scholarships in Benzie County) • A fat bike ride (Thursdays, year round) • Weddings • Reunions • Outings for guests from Crystal Mountain and elsewhere • Group meetings There are plans to add more activities, including a story-telling series and possibly a monthly barn dance.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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C21SleepingBearRealty.com

408 Main St. • Frankfort • 231-352-7123

223 St. Joseph (M-22) Suttons Bay, MI (231) 271-6033 Follow Us! Winter Hours: Wed-Sat 10:00-5:30

Dining RESTAURANT GUIDE & LOCAL FOODIE

More Comfort Food Page 41 Recipe: Irish Brown Bread Page 43 Local Rums Page 45 TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU // PHOTOS BY DAVE WEIDNER

TAGLIATELLE WITH ROASTED RED PEPPERS AND SPICY SAUSAGE

Comfort Food for the March Chill We combat winter’s final act with some of the North’s best cold weather comfort food.

DAVE WEIDNER

WREN THE BUTCHER | 329 EAST STATE STREET, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.252.8001 At Wren the Butcher, a shiny stainless steel grinder extrudes local pork, farm fresh herbs and aromatics into fat green links of chorizo verde. Broken shards of whole potato are lifted from a flash fry in hot oil and painted with sausage gravy and tender cheese curds in a decadent, rustic poutine.

Uniformed in a butcher’s apron and landing

plates in front of hungry patrons seated at the wrap-around counter is local culinary wunderkind Adam McMarlin. The former Cooks’ House sous chef and proprietor of The Bay Leaf struck out on his own last summer in the State Street Marketplace to harness his love for whole animal butchery into an honest, dynamic counter service eatery

built on seasonal sausages, charcuterie and handmade pastas. The menu—rustic and beer-friendly to complement the adjacent Monkey Fist Brewery—fluctuates almost daily, featuring slow-cooked brisket sandwiches with remoulade and red onion, or hearty potato leek soup with smoked duck breast and grilled brioche.4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

39

e

erienc p Ex g in

Din Serving fresh made y l i m Mexican and American food eat Fa

Gr

Happy Hour - 1/2 Off All Alcohol Mon-Fri 3-6pm and 9pm to close

Breakfast, Brunch & Lunch Classics unquely prepared with elegant simplicity Closed Tuesdays February — April Week Days 7 am - 4 pm Saturday - Sunday 9 am - 3 pm Located in the Mercato in The Village of The Grand Traverse Commons Reservations Accepted 231.252.4648

RedSpireBrunchHouse.com

Thank you for your support in Round 1 of THE RED HOT BEST COMPETITION. Don’t forget to vote again in round 2!

(231) 946-8168 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

40

MyNorth.com

TRAVERSE CITY (2 locations) • Petoskey Mount Pleasant • Lansing • Gaylord Like us on Facebook

LaSenorita.com

Dining

ON THE ROAD FOR COMFORT FOOD

YELLOW DOG CAFE 4850 MAIN STREET, ONEKAMA | 231.508.5008

Buttery scones, sourdough baguette sandwiches and airy quiches built from locally sourced ingredients.

GAIJIN 136 EAST FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY | 231.421.5466

Umami-rich ramen with housemade noodles, soft-boiled egg and seared slices of pork belly in fragrant dashi.

HARWOOD GOLD CAFE 230 BRIDGE STREET, CHARLEVOIX | 231.437.3900

Hearty Australian-style meat pies served with a side of this Charlevoix farm’s artisan catsup.

SAM’S GRACES CAFE 339 STATE STREET, HARBOR SPRINGS | 231.242.1230

FOODIE FILE

Adam McMarlin

This cozy Harbor Springs hangout slings wood-oven pizzas, spanakopita and poached eggs with quinoa, kaleroasted root vegetables and lemon tahini sauce.

CHEF/OWNER | WREN THE BUTCHER, TRAVERSE CITY

DAVE WEIDNER

After graduating from Western Michigan University, Adam McMarlin’s chef apprenticeship found him honing French technique in San Diego before moving to Traverse City with his new wife to launch The Bay Leaf in 2010. His brief tenure there and a three-year stint as sous chef at The Cooks’ House paved the way for Adam to strike out on his own with Wren the Butcher. Between bites of housemade sausage, we sit down to talk inspiration and cooking to counter the March chill.

How has your cooking evolved since moving to Traverse City?

One thing that I taught myself once I got here was utilizing local proteins and practicing whole animal butchery. Trying to build a menu around a whole animal has become important to me. I’ve also had to learn to embrace root vegetables.

Tell us the inspiration behind Wren the Butcher?

We’re looking at this as a stepping stone to build our reputation in the

community by making honest, rustic food. This casual setting gives us a lot of space to be creative and have a small menu entirely made in house.

What defines great comfort food?

For me it’s all about heavy starches: pastas and potatoes … leeks, celery root. Those deep earthy flavors are so satisfying in the winter. Poutine has been popular. Our bratwursts will get seasoned with nutmeg and lemon this time of year.

It’s mud season, what should we try cooking at home?

Make the small investment of getting yourself a pasta roller. Making fresh pasta may seem intimidating but it’s very simple and makes such a huge difference in the quality of your dishes. Practice up so you’re ready when ramps, fiddleheads and morels start coming up.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

41

Restaurant Guide

new Pour

Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served. $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 Water view $$$: Above $20

231.881.9800

121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge.

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$

charlevoix/central lake/ ellsworth/east jordan

CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants at MyNorth.com/restaurants

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

EMMET AND NORTH

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City Pellston

Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Emmet and North Frankfort

Manistee

231.487.9900

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777 Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING CHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

CRAWFORD/KALKASKA

Gaylord

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication..Mackinaw LD • BAR • $-$$$ City

INN AT BAY HARBOR RENAISSANCE LAKE MICHIGAN GOLF RESORT, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

petoskey/harbor springs/ Traverse City cross village /pellston/bay harbor

Charlevoix

Beards Brewery PIZZA, BURGERS, SALADS, WINGS AND CULINARY SURPRISES INCLUDING PHO. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221 The Bistro Saucer-sized homemade pancakes, comfort food.

Cadillac

Petoskey

Ellsworth

Boyne City East Jordan Bellaire

Chandler’s Art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Frankfort

Traverse City

new Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas

LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour.

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

Pierson's Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

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MyNorth.com

D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827 Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR •

Kalkaska

215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

231.347.7570

Gaylord

Elk Rapids

BL • $ 1900 US 31., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

City Park Grill Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 Manistee Cormack’s Deli Fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY,

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $

Grayling

$$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

elk rapids

Charlevoix-Antrim- KalkaskaCadillac Otsego-Crawford

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD

bellaire/boyne/walloon

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, freshoff-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELKCity Mackinaw

7 Monks Taproom The hip-hopping 7 Monks of Traverse City launches a Boyne City twin serving up rustic charcuterie boards, fried Brussels sprouts, Monk ’n’ Cheese and a universe of artisan brews to wash it all down. D • BAR • $$ 202 LAKE ST., new

231.264.0530 • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELK RAPIDS, LEELANAU

RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4215

Petoskey

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. LD • BAR $-$$$ 04069

Northport

M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875.

Café Santé

Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800

Moka A fireplace in, a rustic-modern patio out, plus Italian coffees, irresistible sandwiches and baked creations. BLD • $ 102 SOUTH BRIDGE LANE, BELLAIRE, 231.533.6262

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Gaylord

Leland Empire Frankfort

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

Leelanau Manistee

Cadillac

leelanau county

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

The Bluebird Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season.

Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.90814

Dining LOCAL FOODIE

Christina Marbury Boone Dock’s Shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers. LD • BAR

• BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888

• $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Bay Bread Company Artisan breads, sandwiches, salads, soups.

Big Cat Brewing Company Great comfort food including pot roast, perch and Southern-fried chicken, but now with housebrewed beer. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386. 5511

Joe’s Friendly Tavern Whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506 Knot Just a Bar

Fish and burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY

SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944 Leland Lodge Bogeys— BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.8022

Bistro Fou Fou Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux also of La Bécasse in Maple City brings his country French cooking downtown. LD • $$-$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.6583 Blue Heron 2 Local ingredients used in homemade bread and soup and other scratch dishes like roasted vegetable breakfast bowl. BL • $ 408 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.2583 Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515 Bubba’s Burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House Sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700 Gaijin Japanese eatery serving legit ramen, bao buns and craft sakés. LD • BAR • $$ 136 EAST FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5466

Irish Brown Bread

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY.,

Firefly Sushi, steaks and burgers. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE

MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

The Franklin Flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

1 ½ cups all purpose white flour

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. BL • $ 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE

1 ½ cups whole-wheat flour

CITY, 231.944.1228

½ cup cake flour (use all purpose

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on scratch regional cuisine. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub (Whitefish, prime rib, and yellow LD • BAR • $$ 420 belly perch) , fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans.

GRAND TRAVERSE ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

CITY, 231.932.1310

Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, soups, salads and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

CITY, 231.922.7437

great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST.,

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network.

Full menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Harvest Mackinaw City Hip Asian and Latin influenced menu. LD • BAR • $ 127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6037 Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

Petoskey

Tucker’s of Northport Bistro-style casual fine dining. Meet.

Dine. Bowl. LD • BAR • $-$$ 116 WAUKAZOO, NORTHPORT, 231.386.1061

Frankfort

Acme Traverse City Interlochen

Grand Traverse

Cadillac

old mission peninsula

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

traverse city—downtown

Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with upand-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5545

if you don't have cake flour)

½ cup wheat germ or oat bran 2 tablespoons sugar 1 ½ teaspoons baking soda 1 ½ teaspoons cream of tartar 1 ½ teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons butter, softened

Mackinaw Brewing Co. House-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT

1 ½ cups buttermilk

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793 Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Manistee

231.946.6925

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100 Gaylord

Old Mission

PHOTO COURTESY CHRISTINA MARBURY

From her home base in Traverse City, Christina Marbury combines passions and skills to round out her unique résumé: food photographer, food blogger, digital marketer focused on local food businesses and special order baker. She also loves celebrating her Irish heritage, especially around St. Patty’s Day, with this robust recipe for traditional Irish soda bread. Find Christina at tootsweetness.com and follow her on Instagram @tootsweetness. —E.E.

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic stea and burger house. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325 Olives and Wine Middle Eastern small plates with a self-serve wine bar. D • BAR • $$ 201 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2850

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Place flours, wheat germ, sugar, baking soda, cream of tartar, and salt in a large bowl and whisk until fully combined. With your fingers, rub softened butter into the flour mixture until completely incorporated.

Create a well by pushing some of the flour to the sides of the bowl, and pour in the buttermilk. With a fork, stir the mixture gently to incorporate the buttermilk into the dry ingredients. The dough will come together in large clumps. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and use your hands to bring it together to form a 6-inch round. It will be a little uneven; don't worry!

Place the dough in a 12-inch cast iron, or on a baking sheet, and score a deep cross into the top of the bread, nearly reaching each edge, and about half an inch deep. Bake bread at 400 degrees for 40–45 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Let cool for about 20 minutes. Best served warm with butter.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

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TOSKI TOSKI SANDS TOSKI SANDS SANDS MM EE AA T TM M AA RR KK EE T T& &W W I NI N E ES S HH OO PP M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P

Dining Great Lakes Pastures.

Great Goat Cheese.

EXETXEN T SNIV EE SESLEECT SIV XTE LEECIO N NEN TIO OSFIV S E QU T E O C FE T QA TP IT IOIN ULL OP YW ALIT N EO O Y QU W O ,EFA, T IN IT AA TALT Y 151%5 O WFINE, LALLP L % F A AT 15% OF. F. LL OFF.

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700

TOSKI TOSKI SANDS SANDS

Sorellina Authentic Italian from Antipasta to pasta. D • BAR • $$-$$ $ 120 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P M E AT M A R K E T & W I N E S H O P

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500

EXTEN SIVE SELEECXTTEN IVE SE IONSO LECTIO Q N U OP A OFF TTO L IT Y WIN QUALIT WINEE,, ALPL AT 1Y5% A T 15% O OFF. ALL FF.

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900 Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-tofork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263 WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

traverse city–east

P RPERM I EIRE RM M E AETAST S& &F RFERSEHS HF IFSIHS /HS/ESAEFAOF O EM OD OD P RW EM E R M E A T S &Y FBREEES R H F I S H / S EOARF O O D I NII E W N,ES, PSEPCE ICAILT A LT Y B E E R& &L ILQI U QUOR WCI INAELT , SYP E CRIOACLT Y IB E E&R P&R O L IDQUUCOER S PSE G E R E S P E C I A LT Y G R O C E R I E S & P R O D U C E P EP C I ATLT Y G R O CMEERSI T E S & P REOED UCE ISM I MO PR O RETD E D& &D O D O M E SITCI CC H C H ESEES E I MDP EOLRI T& E D & D ORM E S FT O IC C HEESE D E L I &P RPERPA E PAERD ED FO OD O SD S D E L I & P R E PA R E D F O O D S

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000 McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8800

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WW WW. W.TO TOS S K I SA N D S M A R K W K ET. ET.C CO OM M M--111199,, P P ETO ETO S SK KE 22229944 M EY Y || 22 3311--334477--11557711

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31, TRAVERSE

wi n n i ng th e most 2017 Ame rican Ch e ese Soci ety Goat Ch e ese Awards N O R T H P O R T, M I C H I G A N

I DY L L FA R M S . C O M

CITY, 231.938.2773

Smoke and Porter Public House A new American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits.

LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8888 Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303 traverse city–south

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials.

D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 new Common Good Bakery

Handmade pastries, bread, croissants, breakfasts, soups, sandwiches.. BL • $ 537 W 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8002

The Pantry Staple.

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta, sausages, charcuterie and salads. LD • $-$$ 545 E EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE new

CITY 231.421.118

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $, 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687

Healthy, versatile, delicious and always ready for your recipe or on-the-go snack. Dried cherries, cranberries and blueberries made in Frankfort, Michigan. Now in organic! GracelandFruit.com.

traverse city–west

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393 4

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Drinks

SALUTE SPRING

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE

BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD

WITH LOCAL RUMS

CITY, 231.252.4648

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

IRON FISH DISTILLERY MICHIGAN WHITE RUM

Mackinaw City

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989

Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and MickeyPetoskey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7795

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. new

Gaylord

LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

Traverse City

HOOCH FILE

Onekama Manistee

Molasses and Sleeping Bear Farms honey. Clean sugarcane and citrus.

100 percent cherry blossom honey. Caramel. Toffee.

Subtle citrus.

NORTHERN LATITUDES DISTILLERY WHALEBACK SPICED RUM

MAMMOTH DISTILLING WOOD BOAT RUM

White rum infused with fruit and spices. Warming and smooth.

100 percent blackstrap molasses. Smoky vanilla.

Dried fruit. Brown spices.

Geri Lefebre

CO-FOUNDER/DISTILLER | ETHANOLOGY, ELK RAPIDS Cadillac

Benzie-Manistee-Wexford frankfort/elberta

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails). BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

A native of Ishpeming, Geri Lefebre met husband Nick, from Alden, when they were undergrads at Northern Michigan University. Their dream of starting a business integrating agriculture and entrepreneurial spirit in northwest Michigan crystallized amid the craft spirits zeitgeist. The couple set to work researching the business and science of distillation before Ethanology started production in February 2017 with Geri as the state’s first female head distiller. We sit down with Geri and a dram of their Mel Volcatus to talk hyper-local hooch and the science of honey rum.

Tell us about the farmers that fuel Ethanology’s spirits?

Our goal is to capture Northern Michigan terroir in every bottle, so every ingredient we use is grown within 33 miles of the distillery. Shooks Brothers Farm grows blue corn for our bourbon.

Andrew Boyer in East Jordan grows our barley.

And all of the honey for our rum comes from hives in the surrounding cherry orchards.

Find More Northern Michigan Restaurants!

Go to MyNorth.com/restaurants DAVE WEIDNER

ETHANOLOGY MEL VOLCATUS HONEY RUM

Honey rum?

We’re one of only two distilleries in the world to make an oak-aged honey distillate. It takes 1,000 pounds of honey to make each single barrel batch of Mel Volcatus. We did some calculations, and each bottle equates to approximately 5 million flower visits and 6.3 million hours of bee work.

What does all that bee work taste like when it drips from the still?

We use a sauvignon blanc yeast in the initial

fermentation, which draws a lot of pineapple and citrus notes from the honey. The honey goes through the still and then ages in new Missouri oak, where it picks up its color and caramel/toffee notes. The yeast gives it a rich mouthfeel.

What’s the sipping protocol?

We like to treat it like a fine whiskey and drink it with a big ice cube or muddled in our Mel Fashioned: K teaspoon of raw cane sugar muddled with a N-of-an-orange slice, bitters and a Luxardo cherry. Pour in 2 ounces of rum, add ice and a splash of soda water and stir 20–30 revolutions.

Traverse food and drinks editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR '18

45

sit back

relax

and watch the

storm roll in

12oz cans m a k i n g l a n d fa l l

2018 Stormcloud Brewing co.

DOWNTOWN FRANKFORT, MICHIGAN

- Family Owned & Operated -

Authentic Mexican & Fusion Foods Fresh local ingredients traditionally prepared with our twists & blends to keep it fresh, fun, & exciting!

For Location & Menu Visit Our Website

www.th e tac obou ti ttr u c k.c om

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MyNorth.com

Outdoors

Bluegills on Winter’s Edge As the first inklings of spring emerge, and lakes begin to ice out, stalk the shorelines to reel in famished panfish.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

The days of late winter and early spring often boast brooding gray skies and a sparse landscape not yet sparked to life.

Despite the bleak vistas, the lake shallows exposed by receding ice are often teeming with activity. Set out for smaller bodies that will be among the first to shed their winter ice sheet.

Lakes like Arbutus and Cedar (just minutes from downtown Traverse City) are viable options for fishing the spring thaw.

As your boots submerge in the lake-bottom ooze, watch for the water surface to pop and gurgle as bluegills in the reeds retreat in haste. Thankfully, the fish are a forgetful breed. Stand still, and soon the school will ease back to reeds they fled.

While a canoe or kayak may be suitable once open water appears, wading the shallows is the most efficient means for early spring efforts. Hike up your waders and head for the north shore. This time of year, the northern lip of the lake is exposed to more sunlight and winds that push in warm top water. This fringe of rising temps will corral cold-blooded bluegill seeking pleasant climes.

Like all methods of panfishing the pleasure lies in its simplicity. Pack in a 6.5- to 8-foot medium-light or ultra-light rod for hucking your presentation over the pike reeds. A slim float (fixed or slip bobber), one to two small split shot and a number 8 Aberdeen hook are all that’s required. Depths are likely to range only two to four feet with ’gills cruising the upper portion, so set your hook to dangle 12 to 18 inches below bobber. Waxworms are a reliable initial bet with trout worms on backup. The smaller presentation is more akin to grubs and larvae that drop from the limbs of overhanging trees.

Select an appealing piece of real estate, settle in and other than casting, be still. Excessive movement will startle fish that are sidling up to the shallows. Cast your line a good distance—space between yourself and your bait diminishes incidental disturbance. Aim for where weeds meet open

water, reel up slack, and let it drift. Patience is your best ally as prespawn bluegill tend to be peckish. Watch as the float is slowly submerged or slyly pulled sideways, and then set the hook! Keep rod tip up to water-ski the fish over weeds and obstructions.

The consistent action of ice-out bluegill fishing is a great way to jumpstart your spring angling aspirations. Rather than waiting on open water, don the waders and hone in on a mess of early season bluegills.

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrian@umich.edu

EQUIPMENT RECOMMENDATION:

For those with a preference for slip bobbers over spring locked, consider the Slip Lock Bobber from Clearly Outdoors. Easily slip the line into a groove cut into the side of the float and then secure the two snaps. Bypass retying the hook or the thread-the-needle tedium of traditional slip bobbers and spend more time preying on panfish.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | MAR ’18

47

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Feed Your Family … and the Local Economy Stronger you. Stronger community. Stronger economy. Local food can make all that happen.

BY TRICIA PHELPS

SAT. APRIL 21, 10 AM TO 6 PM Enjoy wine at each of 8 wineries while you and your friends meet wedding resources galore!

48

MyNorth.com

Fifteen years ago, the average consumer had no idea where her or his food came from. There was very little understanding of the value that local agriculture brings to the economy, and young people didn’t consider farming a profitable career choice.

But, recognizing early on the positive impacts of a strong local food system, it was exactly 15 years ago that Taste the Local Difference (TLD) was created here in Northwest Michigan to help build the consumer demand for local food.

Today’s vibrant local food scene would be unrecognizable to people in that previous time, but even now only a fraction of the population today routinely purchases locally grown food.

The potential for growth is significant and TLD’s efforts are proven examples of developing strength in the local food community by engaging and connecting with more consumers. Without demand, the farmers and producers who supply local food simply cannot thrive.

When the goal is to have more people actively purchasing locally grown food, then more people need to be made aware of the benefits it can bring— like strengthening the local economy, connecting people to one another and improving community health. Once introduced to these benefits and the delicious taste of freshly harvested produce, consumers will need resources to help them find local food and farms in the area. These are the types of resources that Taste the Local Difference provides.

Through consumer education, developing free community food system resources, and providing affordable marketing services, TLD improves the success and resiliency of Michigan’s farms and food businesses. Today, Taste the Local Difference is growing statewide, mapping the distinct community food systems that exist throughout Michigan and making connections between farmers and buyers.

Connection itself is multi-dimensional, so when it’s said that TLD is “making connections” this involves several different meanings of the word. By sharing stories, TLD helps consumers relate to local farmers and food producers on a personal level. Collecting data and ensuring transparency means TLD consumers can choose foods that tie in with their values, like a farm’s growing practices or how many miles away means local to them.

The TLD brand, resources and marketing materials help consumers find local food in their community. And because TLD is constantly building relationships throughout the food system, this network means you’re only one quick introduction away from that perfect local product you’re after.

Rallying a new network of passionate and invested consumers is what TLD is up to next. So if you’re committed to local food, love eating well, and support your community, then this is for you.

Like everything at Taste the Local Difference, developing a supportive network starts with a commitment to buying local. If you can pledge to spend at least $10 a week on local food, TLD invites you to become a Local Food Enthusiast and reap the benefits. You’ll receive a set of awesome local food gifts, invitations to cocktail hours and meet-ups with other local food enthusiasts in your region, and we’ll keep you up to date on all the best local food and farming stories.

As a consumer, this is your chance to support the work that TLD has done in our community for 15 years. It is the work we continue to do here in Northwest Michigan and now throughout the state.

Learn more at localdifference.org/ ieatlocal, and join us to strengthen our community by eating well.

Tricia Phelps is CEO of Taste the Local Difference, a social enterprise of the Groundwork Center for Resilient Communities.

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