59 minute read
UP IN MICHIGAN
The author's Dad, enjoying a walk down memory lane.
A NICE DAY FOR A DRIVE
by CAROL VOTAW
Reliving sweet summer memories at Crystal Downs.
The deck is wet from last night’s rain. It’s gray and cool. What to do on a summer day when the weather didn’t get the message that you’re on vacation? Rather than let the day slip away, I come up with a way to pass a few cloudy hours. My 91-year-old dad is just finishing breakfast. He’s immersed in an article when I interrupt his reverie.
“Hey Dad, I’m going to Frankfort to pick up some smoked fish, want to come?”
“No, I think I’d rather stay home and read.”
Hmm … I try again: “Why don’t you come just to keep me company?”
“When are you leaving?”
“Fifteen minutes.”
“Fifteen, huh?”
“What else are you going to do on a cool, cloudy day?”
That did it. “You know, Carol, I think I will join you.” Yes!
The lake is churning out waves full of attitude. Clouds are slung low and heavy across the sky. I doubt Eeyore could have ordered a gloomier day than the looks of this one. Yet, soon we are cruising along the north shore of Crystal Lake listening to a new CD I picked up in Empire by a kid who just graduated from Hillsdale College. The bluesy folk music matches today’s moody clouds perfectly. As we round the west shore, I see the gate to Crystal Downs and suggest we take the scenic drive to the clubhouse that overlooks Crystal Lake to the east and Lake Michigan to the west. Summer homes nestle in the high hills above this remarkable Scottish links course that steals me back to another time. We drive through a tunnel of trees that winds higher and higher until it opens up to a vast backdrop of rolling land speckled with sand traps and tall, heather roughs.
Designed by Alister MacKenzie and Perry Maxwell, Golf Digest ranks Crystal Downs the 14th best golf course in the U.S., and Golfweek ranks it the best private course in Michigan. Arguably the greatest golf course designer of all time, MacKenzie also designed Augusta National, Cypress Point and the Royal Melbourne.
The views at Crystal Downs are spectacular, even on cloudy days. I park the car and we climb up to the restaurant. We make our way carefully, although we do take a daunting shortcut for a 91-year-old. It’s a bit steep, but I take Dad’s arm and together we climb. We make it to a long stone stairway with a wrought-iron railing that sweeps elegantly to the restaurant perched atop the hill. Like a trooper, Dad climbs to the top. We walk around the patio and admire the gardens and striking views. Five years earlier, I
watched the Chicago to Mackinac Race from this same vantage point. Four yachts sailed past, their spinnakers tightly trimmed, as a brisk breeze propelled them across the horizon.
The restaurant isn’t open, and even if it were, you’d have to be a member to dine. But we didn’t come for the food, we came to see an old friend—a place where the land rolls in green waves dotted with sandy islands tucked between two stunning, glacially carved lakes; a place where time seems to stand still. Overlooking this familiar course, time is unbound and the years tumble away. Looking at Dad, I see the joy of youthful memories in his smile. Tiny lines, earned by a lifetime of living, radiate from the corners of his eyes, making his smile unabashedly genuine.
A cool breeze hints at autumn days just around the corner. On the way back down, I see a sundial that says, “I count only sunny hours.” I pause wistfully and doubt the wisdom of these words. Today’s as cloudy as they come, a day the Scots would call dreich—devoid of sunshine! Yet, Dad and I are thankful to be here overlooking this beautiful course that kindles fond memories on even the dreariest of days. And, I’m secretly charmed to discover that Crystal Downs first opened for play the summer my Dad was born, 1929.
Before we leave, we poke our heads in the golf shop. Dad reminisces about playing the course years ago as I admire the Crystal Downs crest etched on fine glass pilsners and stout brandy snifters.
Soon we’re on our way, driving the narrow road that rises and falls with the bluffs. We pass carriage houses quaint as cottages, and I find it hard to believe they were originally built for horses. Before long, Dad and I emerge from the wooded drive that embraces this timeless golf course. We turn onto Homestead Road and I see a twinkle in Dad’s eye.
“I’m glad we did this Carol. I’ve always loved that course.”
Me too, Dad… me, too…
Carol Votaw is a children’s book author, freelance writer and piano teacher. Since she was a little girl she’s spent summers at Crystal Lake and, even on a cloudy day, it’s her favorite place to be.
When Northern Michigan is at your door, bring it in!
TOUR OUR BUILDING & DESIGN CENTERS
PETOSKEY | HARBOR SPRINGS | GAYLORD | TRAVERSE CITY
COPPER COUNTRY IS A newly imagined crop of cozy lodges, historic hotels and snug cabins on the Keweenaw is the perfect reason to head north. Way north. by Stacey Brugeman / photos by Aaron Peterson C AL LING
WHEN YOU PULL INTO CALUMET, located on Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula, the history—and onetime wealth—is striking. The massive sandstone buildings with arched windows and intricate details are a visual reminder of a long-ago era of serious prosperity. While this northernmost stretch of Michigan not far from the 47th parallel was once a bustling hub of mining commerce, that all dried up in the years following the Great Depression.
“Copper Country,” as the region is known today, has been relatively sleepy in the century since. Over the decades, the Keweenaw has become known for its recreation—a place to mountain bike 1.1-billion-year-old basalt cliffs, chase waterfalls, enjoy birding at Estivant Pines, take in a Lake Superior sunset from Great Sand Bay, hop the ferry to Isle Royale National Park, and otherwise get off the grid in a location where it’s easier to find a Yooperlite than a cell signal.
In the last few years, however, the energy in the Keweenaw is shifting. The recent addition of five refreshed lodging options signals a new dawn for Keweenaw tourism—one that is steeped in history, holds deep respect for the region’s sheer beauty and will make you want to head north stat. Whether you’re an empty nester visiting your grown kiddo at Michigan Tech, an avid cyclist looking to careen down a world-class mountain-biking center, a family craving summer vacation memories, a couple wanting to unplug, or even a foodie who knows there’s far more to the U.P. than pasties alone, here are five noteworthy hotspots to rest your head.
After a day spent viewing Houghton by paddleboard (above), sidle up to the penny-topped bar at The Vault Hotel’s guests-only speakeasy (middle) before retreating to one of 17 luxurious rooms, one of which features an original bank vault (top), now a sitting space.
THE EMPTY NESTER The Vault Hotel
HOUGHTON
Parents with students at Michigan Tech already know Houghton’s a sweet place to stay awhile. But even if your kids have flown elsewhere, this charming city on the Portage Canal makes a great getaway for folks looking to escape and reconnect.
Make your home base The Vault Hotel on Houghton’s main drag, Shelden Avenue. The stately sandstone building was originally built as Houghton National Bank in 1887, during the heyday of Copper Country’s mining boom, and remained a bank for more than a century until reopening as a boutique hotel in 2019. Following an extensive renovation, the 17room property is at once historic and modern.
The lobby is home to vintage safety deposit boxes and the original teller windows that once witnessed the transactions of the copper boom’s wealthiest players. Rooms have been outfitted with memory foam beds, soaking tubs, full wet bars (each with a coffee press), geometric wallpaper and lush jewel-toned window treatments. Those who really want to steep themselves in the region’s bygone era of glitz and glamour should book the first-floor “Vault Room,” which houses the bank’s massive 130-year-old vault, now a sitting room. Be sure to make time for a cocktail in the property’s subterranean speakeasy. The space is open only to hotel guests and features a rescued miningera piano and a bar topped in copper pennies. The Vault Hotel, 600 Shelden Ave., Houghton; thevaulthotel.com; peak-season rooms from $289. ~
OUT AND ABOUT: Grab lunch at Milly’s (millyshancock.com), which is just across the Portage Canal in Hancock and offers Detroitstyle pizza with gorgeous, inventive flavor combinations. Think: burrata cheese, housemade kale pesto and smoked salmon from Native-owned and nationally celebrated Peterson’s Fish Market (petersonfish.com). Work off lunch by heading to Portage Paddle Sports (portagepaddlesports.com) to rent paddleboards, which are the perfect way to see Houghton from the water.
THE FOODIE Fitzgerald’s Hotel
EAGLE RIVER
For years, foodies have flocked to Fitzgerald’s Hotel & Restaurant in the sleepy hamlet of Eagle River (population 112) for some of the best site-smoked barbecue, whiskey cocktails and sunsets in Northern Michigan. But now this dining destination boasts six fully remodeled, 520-square-foot rooms. Owner Mike LaMotte, who took over the family motel from his parents in 2007, spent Covid time wisely, using lockdown as an opportunity to convert the 12 original 1950s motel rooms into modern, well-appointed suites. Leather couches from Article, Leesa beds, West Elm side tables and “a metric ton of pillows,” as LaMotte jokes, are now available a stone’s throw—literally—from Lake Superior. Check in to your room, wander up and down Eagle River beach while you wait for your table at “the Fitz,” as it’s known, and order as much whiskey as you want knowing that a Pendleton blanket and morning room service are just a few footsteps away. Fitzgerald’s Hotel & Restaurant, 5033 Front St., Eagle River; fitzgeralds-mi.com; peak-season rooms from $270.
Don’t miss Keweenaw Coffee Works (below) in historic Calumet (above right) before checking in at “The Fitz” (top), one of the best restaurants in the Upper Peninsula and now also home to 12 stunning suites overlooking the rugged expanse of Lake Superior.
OUT AND ABOUT: If your long drive to Michigan’s northernmost peninsula calls for a pick-me-up before checking into your room, stop just shy of Eagle River in Calumet for a cold-brew coffee at Keweenaw Coffee Works (keweenawcoffeeworks.com). Wander the brick streets and take in St. Anne’s church, the Calumet Theatre, the historic Calumet Village Fire Station and other turn-of-the-last-century structures that are a stunning reminder of the region’s prosperous mining era. After an indulgent night at the Fitz, burn off those calories with any of the Keweenaw’s monster hikes. One of our favorites is the Grinnell Memorial Nature Sanctuary at Bare Bluff (pictured above), which is located off Smith Fisheries Road near Lac La Belle. Be sure to wear good footwear—there is a terrific scramble on the far side.
THE LOVEBIRDS Fresh Coast Cabins
EAGLE HARBOR
Lynn and Jason Makela met while students at Michigan Tech. After time in Seattle and Corvallis, Oregon, they are back in their old stomping grounds as husband and wife. The Copper Country sweethearts (pictured above) are rescuing Lakeshore Drive’s old Eagle River Lodge, a collection of nine cottages on a western-facing stretch of Lake Superior, and bringing them back to life as Fresh Coast Cabins—the most design-savvy rental cabins we’ve seen in Michigan. While each cabin has its own distinct personality, they are all inspired by Jason’s Scandinavian roots. “We wanted everything to feel like you walked into someone’s living room instead of a hotel,” says Lynn of the property’s carefully curated but still woodsy style.
We love Cabin 9 (pictured at top) for couples. This unit has everything you need for a romantic weekend away—a cozy queen-sized bed that’s covered in a Sunday Citizen duvet and throw from the Lake Superior Woolen Company, a rustic-chic kitchen, a freestanding midcentury modern fireplace, and a private patio with twinkle lights and frontrow views of Lake Superior’s basalt coves. Fresh Coast Cabins, 13051 M-26, Eagle Harbor; freshcoastcabins.com; peak-season cabins from $145. OUT AND ABOUT: Start at least one day watching the sunrise from the Point Isabelle stretch of Bete Grise Preserve (keweenawlandtrust.org)—a protected area of dune swell wetlands and Lake Superior shoreline that is one of the most undiscovered parts of the county. Couples should also rent a tandem kayak from Keweenaw Adventure Company (keweenawadventure.com), a Copper Harbor outfit that offers a variety of guided paddles. For experienced kayakers, we suggest paddling along the southern edge of Keweenaw Point past sea caves and arches to Montreal Falls, a remote waterfall that is best viewed from the water. Back in Copper Harbor hit The Genny—a vintage general store that carries bottlings from Gitchee Gummee Ciderworks (gitchegumeeciderworks.com). The Hancock cider house is using foraged, wild apples to craft dry cider, perfect for pairing with a Lake Superior sunset under those twinkle lights.
Montreal Falls (above) is one of the most remote waterfalls in Copper Country and is especially beautiful from the water. Rent a tandem kayak and commit a day to this 15-mile out-and-back paddle.
THE ADVENTURER Camper Cabins at Trails End Campground
COPPER HARBOR
While much of Northern Michigan is home to fertile farmland, the Keweenaw is beloved by mountain bikers for its steep volcanic cliffs and more than 100 miles of single track, especially the trails at the top of Brockway Mountain Drive. Trails End Campground, located at the foot of this famed cycling route, is a great spot for bikers to pitch their tents … or not. Tents are one piece of gear you can now leave behind thanks to seven new glamping cabins that were recently built onsite, with an additional seven in the works. The insulated cabins were built using Keweenaw cedar and remain primitive, with no plumbing or running water, but each are outfitted with BYO-linen bunks, an indoor dining table and chairs, solar-powered charging stations, a wood stove with as many logs as you want to burn through and plenty of hooks to hang all the gear you crammed into your car. Outside, guests will find a covered porch with chairs, picnic table and fire pit—the perfect place to swap stories from a day on the trails. Trails End Campground, 14203 M-26, Copper Harbor; campcopperharbor.com; 6-person camper cabins from $100.
OUT AND ABOUT: As you cross over the Portage Lake Lift Bridge in Hancock to finish your journey north toward Trails End, stock up on groceries and other campsite supplies at the Keweenaw Coop (keweenaw.coop), one of the best cooperative grocers in Northern Michigan. After a day careening down Brockway Mountain’s intermediate Flow Trail or experts-only The Edge, swap your padded shorts for a pair of pants and hit reset on the rocks at Horseshoe Harbor before heading to Harbor Haus (harborhaus.com), a German-themed institution. Skip the formal dining room and ask for a seat at the bar, where you can watch kayakers paddle out to Porters Island for sunset while you sip from an impressive list of dunkels and doppelbocks. You’ve earned it.
The modern, thoughtfully constructed camper cabins (top left) at Trails End Campground are located less than a halfmile from Brockway Mountain Drive (at left), a world-class destination for avid mountain bikers who journey north for the region’s steep basalt cliffs.
THE FAMILY Keweenaw Mountain Lodge
COPPER HARBOR
Families have been making the pilgrimage to Keweenaw Mountain Lodge since the 1930s, when this now-institution was built as part of FDR’s Works Progress Administration (WPA). In many ways the property—which is today listed on the national register of historic places—hasn’t changed since. The main lodge (pictured at right) remains one of the most beautiful log cabins we know, and the destination, long beloved by golfers, should stay on any regional bucket list for nine holes of golf.
The historically protected cabins are stuck in time—with, for now, the same fixtures and finishes you remember from when you were a kid. That said, the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge changed hands in 2018, when private owners purchased it at auction from the county. “The mission was really noble, with FDR’s New Deal and the WPA,” says owner John Mueller, who compares the vibe to that of the national parks, like “a mini scale of a Yellowstone or Yosemite lodge, or Timberline out in Oregon,” he says.
Inspired by the property’s history and with an eye on its future, Mueller has made several improvements in the years since. Among them, there is now a trail system on “the back nine,” a section of the golf course that was never finished. The trails (which double as Nordic terrain in the winter) fill a longstanding void for beginner mountain bikers and kids. Just this spring, Mueller acquired additional acreage, bringing the property’s total size up to 560 acres with some 15 miles of trails. Couple this with refreshed common spaces in the main lodge and the property’s commitment to becoming an International Dark Sky Park for stargazing, and it might be high time to introduce the kids to the type of cabin your parents took you to. Keweenaw Mountain Lodge, 14252 US-41, Copper Harbor; keweenawmountainlodge.com; cabins from $250.
OUT AND ABOUT: While it’s tempting to remain onsite, families should carve out at least one day to explore. Start by taking your little people to Lake Linden for Swedish pancakes at Lindell’s (906.296.8083), an old soda fountain. Stop by the famed Jampot (poorrockabbey.com) on your way back north and pick up some jars of thimbleberry jam made by Byzantine Catholic monks at Poorrock Abbey. Save time to wander the kid-friendly trails throughout the monastery. While you are there, don’t miss Jacob’s Falls. Its roadside location makes it one of the easiest Keweenaw waterfalls to spot. Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and travel writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Saveur, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.
Aaron Peterson is a photographer and filmmaker based in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. See more at aaronpeterson.studio
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
This northernmost stretch of Michigan is truly remote, with spotty WiFi and—in many places—nonexistent cell phone signal. We recommend packing a printed copy of this story in your duffel and mapping the selections you wish to visit in advance.
A DELIGHTFUL PAIRING
LEELANAU FOODIES MELANIE AND TIM GRIFFITH, AKA MEL & FELL, LOVE SHOWCASING LOCAL BOUNTY IN THEIR SEASONAL, GLOBALLY INSPIRED RECIPES, JUST RIGHT FOR THE PERFECT PICNIC.
BY CARLY SIMPSON
Melanie Griffith has been visiting Empire forever— or as her mom likes to joke, since before she was born. Her family purchased a cabin in 1969, and 50 years later they still go straight to the beach as soon as they arrive to say hello to the lake. Tim’s introduction to Northern
Michigan came later in life, after meeting Melanie. In 2003, they were both working at Beverly Hills Grill in Detroit,
Mel as a server and then a manager, and Tim as pantry chef and later sous chef. Shortly after being introduced, they began dating and, not long after, they were saying “I do” at Sleeping
Bear Dunes.
While still working in Detroit, the duo would head north every chance they got, packing the car after a shift and tooling around Leelanau County, the
“Land of Delight,” on their days off: smoked chubs from Fishtown, farmstand pitstops for dinner ingredients, evenings at the beach. In 2010 they were ready to be here full time, Tim taking a chef job at amical and Melanie working front-of-house at Trattoria
Stella, two of Traverse City’s most respected restaurants. In 2018, they made another leap, starting their own business Mel&Fell (melandfell.com), offering catering for small events and a weekly meal delivery service. Many of Tim’s recipes are inspired by global flavors and how to best pair them with local ingredients—think za’atar and grape tomatoes or a tahini sauce with grilled chicken. “I really enjoy making global flavors more approachable on a local level,” he says. Most of their produce is sourced from Lakeview Hill Farm in Traverse City, Cedar’s Second Spring Farm and Lost Lake Farm in Honor. In the summer, Mel and her fella (the couple earned the nickname Mel&Fell during their days together at Beverly Hills Grill) love cooking for visiting friends and family. These are some of their favorite dishes for the perfect picnic spread; elevated but easy, and each bite a delight.
Opposite: For Tim and Melanie Griffith, cooking and community go hand in hand. “That’s what we love the most about living up here,” Tim says. “The community.”; Special thanks to the French Valley Vineyard team for hosting us at their centennial barn in Cedar.
CHERRY LEMON BALM SODA
Servings: 4-6 Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes (2 hours inactive)
Ingredients:
2 cups sugar 6 cups water 12 ounces frozen tart cherries 15 leaves basil 10 leaves lemon balm* Juice from 2 lemons Club soda for serving
Combine sugar and water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil; let boil for 1 minute. Turn off and set aside to cool for 10 minutes. Add cherries and herbs (tie basil and lemon balm together so you can remove them easily later). Put in the fridge to cool completely, 1-2 hours. Serve over ice and top with club coda.
Note:
Mel and Tim grow lemon balm in their garden. If you can’t locate it, substitute lemongrass, or mint would be equally delicious.
GRAPE TOMATO & MILLET SALAD
Servings: 6 Time: 3 hours (2 hours inactive)
Ingredients:
1 cup millet, rinsed before cooking 6 cups water 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced 2 cups grape tomatoes, cut in half 1 small red onion, diced small 2 cups packed baby spinach PRESERVED LEMON AND ZA’ATAR DRESSING
Ingredients:
2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, chopped fine 2 Tablespoons preserved lemons, chopped (If you don’t have preserved lemon, substitute with 2 Tablespoons lemon zest and 1 teaspoon salt) 2 Tablespoons za’atar seasoning 1 cup vegetable oil For salad: Combine millet and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, then simmer for 20-25 minutes. Do not cover. Rinse with water until cool. Then mix all vegetables with millet. Toss the millet and vegetables with the dressing. Chill in the fridge for at least two hours for flavors to develop.
For dressing: Combine vinegar, garlic, preserved lemons and za’atar seasoning in a food processor or blend with a hand blender. Slowly pour in oil while blending to emulsify until smooth.
GRILLED SKEWERED CHICKEN TENDERS & TAHINI SAUCE
Servings: 6-8 Time: 4 hours, 30 minutes (4 hours marinade time, or overnight)
Ingredients:
3 pounds chicken tenders Bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 10-30 minutes, so they won’t burn
SPICE RUB
Ingredients:
2 garlic cloves, minced 1 Tablespoon salt 1 Tablespoon sugar 1 Tablespoon turmeric 2 teaspoons cumin 1 teaspoon coriander 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1⁄2 teaspoon black pepper 1⁄2 cup olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Dash of hot sauce, to taste
TAHINI SAUCE
Ingredients:
3⁄4 cup tahini paste 2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine 1⁄3 cup lemon juice 1⁄3 cup yogurt Salt and pepper to taste
Skewer the chicken tender pieces. Whisk together dry ingredients, add oil, lemon juice and hot sauce, and rub mixture on chicken. Let marinate for a minimum of 4 hours or overnight, in the refrigerator.
Preheat your grill to medium high, 350 F. Remove excess marinade from chicken. Grill chicken until 160 F on a thermometer, or until cooked through. Juices will run clear. While the chicken cooks, mix ingredients for tahini sauce. Serve sauce on the side.
GRILLED ZUCCHINI & CHARRED RED ONION WRAP
Servings: 4 wraps Time: 20-30 minutes, plus time to preheat grill
Ingredients:
1 medium zucchini, cut in half, then sliced lengthwise 1 medium yellow squash, cut in half, then sliced lengthwise 1 small red onion, cut in thick round slices 6 ounces feta cheese, 2-3 Tablespoons per sandwich 5 ounces pea shoots 1⁄4 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 4 flour tortillas
BASIL MAYO
Ingredients:
3 pasteurized egg yolks 2 garlic cloves Juice from 2 lemons 1 cup vegetable oil 10 basil leaves Salt to taste
Preheat grill to medium high, 350 F. For sandwich: To grill the vegetables, brush with olive oil and salt and pepper. Start the onions first, cook 3-4 minutes before starting squash and zucchini. Grill until charred and tender. Build sandwiches, spread the mayo first, then feta, layer zucchini, squash and red onion. Finish with pea shoots, wrap up like a burrito and enjoy!
For mayo: In a food processor, blend egg yolks, garlic and lemon juice. Slowly add the vegetable oil to emulsify. Add basil, puree until smooth, and salt to taste. Carly Simpson is the associate editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine and editor of MyNorth’s popular email newsletter The Daily Splash. Subscribe at MyNorth.com/Newsletter. csimpson@mynorth.com
Tim Hussey is the art director of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. He is also a fine artist and photographer who enjoys shooting stories that speak to him. husseyart.com
Day One
My adventure started with prepping my bike and making sure all my camping gear would fit snugly on it. As for the route? I stopped in Revolution Bike shop to pump tires and go over my plan with Chet. The goal was to cover 53 miles in two days. Day one, I’d stop at Young State Park, so I had all day to cover 28 miles. With a recommendation for a little restaurant on the water, I set off in search of lunch.
Heading south out of Charlevoix, I passed a big white barn behind a “Share the Road” sign and I knew I was going to enjoy this trip. Six quick miles later, I coasted downhill into Ironton. I felt no need to lock my bike as I slid into a two top on the dock for lunch at The Landing, where I demolished a lobster sandwich while watching the Ironton Ferry come and go a few times. After lunch, I hit the road and headed south on M-66. A couple of miles later, I came upon an old wooden barn, home to Otis Pottery, where I got to meet Andrew Otis, a second-generation potter running the family biz.
After a pleasant chat, it was time to get some miles in, and I pedaled south around the bottom arm of the lake, passing
I saw my neighbor
through East Jordan and back north to Advance. I turned right to make my last six miles to Young State Park, where I had a one-night tent camping reservation. I was pleasantly surprised to cruise into Boyne City—what a charming little town. Since it was early afternoon and I had plenty of time, I parked my bike outside Lake Charlevoix Coffee Company to have a look around before making my way toward the park.
My final stretch into Young State Park was down a treelined, winding trail away from the road into the campground. I set up camp and found it easy to make friends—as I was taking a short walk to refill my water bottles, I met the Sisson family playing on their slackline. I watched the kids and parents take turns for a couple of minutes before they invited me to join the fun. Back at my camp, I saw my neighbor sipping coffee with a classical guitar resting patiently on his lap and headed over to see what he might play. I met Mark and his wife, who were spending an easy weekend camping out of their fifth wheel. He graciously played me a song and his wife handed me the latest issue of Traverse Magazine for my nighttime reading. As the sun began to dip, all the campers gathered on the bank of Lake Charlevoix to watch the sunset.
Opening spread: Riding south out of Charlevoix on M-66; Hilly Boyne City Road; a stop at Lake Michigan Shores Roadside Park along The Little Traverse Wheelway. This spread: Chet Morris of Revolution Bike Shop; The Landing Restaurant on Ferry Road; Gunther’s General Store now operates as an Airbnb; a gravelly Eveline Orchard Road; Andrew Otis of Otis Pottery. A sleepy rainy morning view of Lake Michigan from US-31; Mark and SueBeth Balash enjoy a quiet happy hour at Young State Park; Scott Jasper and his daughter Lydia take turns with friends on a slackline at Young State Park; Campers join together to watch the light fade over Lake Charlevoix.
This spread: Arriving back in Charlevoix on Saturday morning; Michigan Beach Park; Horton Bay General Store; Looking west out the Round Lake Channel toward the Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse.
Day Two
The next morning, I only had to ride four miles to find coffee. I stumbled upon Horton Bay General Store, established 1876, which doubles as an inn. While there, I got caught up on the Hemingway history and lore of the area.
After refueling, I followed the hilly farm roads north to Bay Shore, where I joined the Little Traverse Wheelway. This rail trail, which starts in Harbor Springs, parallels US-31 all the way back to Charlevoix. The final nine-plus miles were pleasant, with views of the lake and plenty of fellow cyclists. I coasted back into the town of Charlevoix on Saturday afternoon. The drawbridge was constantly working for passing boats and the farmers market was in full swing; the loop had brought me full circle on a perfect summer weekend in the most beautiful of places. My final stop? To visit Chet at Revolution and share the highlights of my trip.
Gately Williams is originally from the Midwest but has called Charleston, South Carolina home for 15 years. He lives there with his wife and daughter. When he does not have a camera in his hands, he can be found on one of his bicycles. gately.format.com
INSIDER TIPS
CHECK OUT:
LITTLE TRAVERSE WHEELWAY, A 26-MILE RAIL TRAIL FROM HARBOR SPRINGS TO CHARLEVOIX. (NOTE: THE 1.25-MILE SECTION FROM EAST PARK IN BAY HARBOR TO MAGNUS PARK IN PETOSKEY IS CURRENTLY CLOSED.)
BITE:
GET DINNER IN BOYNE CITY AT CAFE SANTÉ. THE PATIO HAS INCREDIBLE VIEWS OF LAKE CHARLEVOIX.
SCENIC SHORTCUT:
TAKING THE IRONTON FERRY MAKES THIS SAME ROUTE JUST 33 MILES.
GEAR:
THE ROADS ARE IN GOOD CONDITION, MAKING ANY BIKE POSSIBLE. (YOU’LL WANT GEARS FOR THE HILLS THOUGH.)
a sweet dream of a business—most of the workers don’t get paid, yet the workplace is typically buzzing with activity.
The new 10,400-square-foot warehouse in east Traverse City hums with machinery and is filled with the sweet scent of honey, which is being extracted from the honeycombs and processed for bottling and selling. The crisp, black labels on the jars simply read Hilbert’s Honey Co., stamped with a white H in the middle of a hexagon reminiscent of a cell in a honeycomb.
It’s a far cry from its humble beginnings in 1887, but the company is flourishing, thanks to the passion for beekeeping and honey production that has survived and thrived across five generations.
Larry and Geana Hilbert own Hilbert’s Honey Company in its latest iteration. They are the fourth generation of Hilberts to stand with the bees—their sons James and Keith represent the fifth.
It’s a business fraught with risk and rich with reward, fighting against obstacles that would have been unthinkable in 1887, and succeeding thanks to savvy business strategies, profound dedication and a growing awareness that our most important pollinators are in a most precarious position.
The family business began more than 130 years ago, when Larry’s great-grandfather James Hilbert Sr., known as George, decided that hosting bees and their hives was the best way to encourage pollination on his fruit farms in Elmwood Township. And with that came honey. But honey wasn’t a full-time job back then, and he also owned the Hurry Back Saloon at what is now the site of Doug Murdick’s Fudge in downtown Traverse City. (A sign from the saloon now graces the Music House Museum in Williamsburg.)
By the time of the Great Depression, the Hilbert farm boasted 30 to 40 workers. Honey was just one of the components, as the farm was also home for operations in fruit, vegetables and dairy products.
In the midst of World War II, Larry says his family would seek butter on the black market and combine it with honey. It became a favorite, both for its taste and the fact that the honey made the product shelf-stable enough that a lack of refrigeration wasn’t problematic. “It was a huge treat,” Larry explains.
It wasn’t all sunshine and sweetness, though. By the time Larry’s father, Arnold “Bud” Hilbert, returned from the war, Larry’s grandfather, James Jr. (a.k.a. Eldridge), had basically abandoned the bees and the honey side of the business. So, Larry’s dad started anew with 10 hives, this time in Traverse City.
Fast forward a few years to the next generation; Larry and Geana began going out, and she became smitten—and not just with Larry. “We started dating and she fell in love with it,” Larry says, meaning the family business. Which wasn’t really what he was hoping for. “I was allergic to bees as a kid. I had no intention of being in the bee business,” he says.
Happily, it turned out Geana had fallen in love with him as much as the business, and the two were married. While Larry worked at Chef Pierre and helped out with the family business, Geana opted for honey full time. “I had no job,” she says. “I started working for his dad and I loved it. But Larry was worried about being allergic.”
Then their prayers were answered. Larry got stung and had a normal reaction. His allergy had disappeared.
Even better, Larry’s father had decided he’d had enough, and he wanted out. Larry and Geana—make that Geana and Larry—stepped up to take the helm. “There was no doubt in her mind,” Larry says. She was ready for the challenge. And it is a challenge, on many levels. Start with the extraction process. The bees have to be safely removed from the honey boxes. Workers (the human ones) evacuate them using a modified blower or a fume board, which produces a gas that hurts the bees’ eyes but is actually harmless.
The boxes are then loaded onto a truck and driven to the extraction and processing facility, which becomes, well, a hive of activity. The dozen or so workers open the wax combs and “decap” them by using a machine with a chain, similar to a chainsaw. While there are systems that require fewer people but more of an investment, the machine the Hilberts use is a huge advancement from how Larry’s forebears did it. “Back in the day, they’d scrape them (by hand). It was a lot of physical work,” he explains.
The process typically takes place over four or five weeks, from the end of July through August. Larry says the weather
conditions affect exactly when harvesting takes place. “It’s after the honey flow,” he adds—which is not, as one might think, when honey is actually flowing. It is the time when bees have the best opportunity to collect nectar, i.e., when there are abundant sources of nectar and the weather is suitable for bees to forage.
As summer turns to fall, the opportunities for pollination and honey-making decrease. “In fall it gets colder, there’s less sun, the hive is slowing down, the queens are laying fewer eggs,” Larry says. The warehouse is mostly empty of both people and bees as they await the next harvest season.
When things get quiet here, that just means it’s time to head to sunnier climes. The Hilberts load up for the big move south, putting four hives on a pallet, then stacking the pallets up to four high on semi trucks. The bees head to Florida, where they get back to the business of pollinating and the queens start laying eggs again. The Hilberts themselves soon follow.
A couple of months later, they’re off again: Come the end of January, they ship most of their bees to California to pollinate almonds, leaving the weaker colonies in Florida to build strength and help pollinate watermelons.
In the spring the Hilberts split all the hives, taking a portion of an established colony and transferring it to a separate hive, thereby creating two colonies. The end goal is to have two colonies, each with sufficient worker bee populations, stores and their own queen, thus making more honey. Their work in the sunshiny states done— “There’s not as much going on there in summer,” Larry says—the bees return to Michigan after the danger of snow and freezing is past. And the cycle begins again.
Above: The business dates back to the late 19th century, when current owner Larry Hilbert’s great-grandfather started collecting honey from the bees he brought in to pollinate his crops in Leelanau County. Two generations later, Larry’s father restarted what became the family business, this time in Traverse City.Top right: Producing honey is labor-intensive for the humans, too, who unpack honey boxes and decap wax combs to extract the honey, which eventually makes its way into jars and containers. Opposite: Thanks to the Hilberts’ dedication and passion for beekeeping, their company remains a successful multigenerational, family-run business.
Larry credits Geana’s enthusiasm for honey as a major reason for the company’s continued success. “She’s been a driving force,” he says. Today, Hilbert’s Honey has grown to become a major player in the industry, with more than 7,000 beehives. As evidence, look no farther than the 10,400-square-foot building that opened in 2019 to house the extraction and production sides of the liquid gold business.
While it’s always been successful on the wholesale side, it’s only within the last couple of years that Hilbert’s has entered the retail world, including both branding their own honey in stores and embracing e-commerce.
So, what’s the big deal about their honey anyway? Isn’t honey just, you know, honey? Not necessarily. As bees feed on different plant blossoms, it gives the honey decidedly different flavors. And since the Hilberts move their hives around the country, they are able to produce honey from a variety of plant species. For example, their Brazilian pepperhoney is the result of having their hives in Florida where their bees feed on pollen from Brazilian pepper trees. It offers a taste unlike any other. “It’s a very robust honey. It’s different from anything in Michigan,” Larry says.
“In Charlevoix, which is as far north as we go, it (the
The Hilberts collaborate with some 175 landowners to put beehives on their property—from farmers and gardeners to those who simply want their plants to thrive. The landowners reap the benefits of the busy pollinators.
bees’ pollen source) is basswood,” adds General Manager Jason Tamm. “It’s a light honey.”
While the honey they sell is a tasty treat, that’s not always the case. For example, Larry says the honey produced from the almond blossoms is very bitter. That’s one instance where the pollination process, rather than the honey, is the desired end result. Larry says the honey produced when the bees feed on tea trees in Florida is sweet, but not something they would sell at retail. “It’s a bakerygrade honey,” he explains.
Although they can’t keep track of every bee, they know where the hives are, as some 175 landowners let the Hilberts put the bees on their property. Larry says that includes a number of the same people every year, but things change over time. People die, or the property sells, and new owners maybe aren’t sure they want the bees nearby. “We’re always looking for new locations,” Larry says. The Hilberts see it as a win/win relationship for both landowners and themselves. Whether they place the hives with farmers, gardeners or simply those who want their plants to thrive, the landowners reap the benefits of the busy pollinators. Plus, they get a case of honey for their trouble.
The bees will travel up to a mile from their hive, so the Hilberts do their best to make sure they’re not placing their hives near other beekeepers’ hives. That’s easier in some places than others—for example, Larry points to South Dakota, where beekeepers have to register their operation as well as where they are placing their hives.
It’s not a business without risk. Natural disasters such as hurricanes, floods, tornados or forest fires can decimate the hives. Drought, late-season frosts or the like can do the same. “We deal with weather all the time,” Larry says. This past year, temperatures were cooler than the norm, setting back production. “We were about two weeks behind,” Jason Tamm says. The Hilberts also face other challenges, including the loss of habitat, diseases, pollution and pesticides, as well as climate change. They know it’s important to mitigate the risk. As Larry says: “Don’t put all your bees in one basket.” While murder hornets and pesticides have been in the news as hazards for bees, Larry says those aren’t as much of a worry for them at this time as the threat of a larger predator. “In Northern Michigan, the biggest [problem] is black bears,” he
explains. “They were never a problem for my dad in 40 years, but there are a lot more bears than there used to be. I lose $10,000 to $20,000 (annually) to bear attacks.”
Other concerns are growing as well. Most fruit growers are careful not to spray during times when the bees are pollinating, but the growers’ neighbors may not be so careful. “We do get hit pretty hard by chemicals, and lose a certain percent,” Larry says. “When we move north to south, we also lose some during the trip.”
Mites, disease and colony collapse disorder also impact the industry, as well. “The murder hornets are out on the West Coast. That’s scary for everybody,” Larry says. “The nature of the business has changed dramatically.” In his grandfather’s time, wax moths, which could take over a hive, were the biggest and just about the only problem. “Now there are two different mites, as well as beetles, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides,” Larry says. “Neonicotinoids, a relatively new class of insecticide, don’t affect adult bees, but when the adults feed the pollen to baby bees it has a very negative effect on juveniles.”
The Hilberts use nutritional supplements for the bees to help mitigate the impact of potential threats. Still, they say they are always picking up dead hives. While technology advancements have mitigated some of the backbreaking labor, it’s still a physical endeavor: placing the nearly 200 hives, collecting the honey, putting the frames on the truck and unloading them once they get to the production facility. Fun fact: A gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds, while a gallon of honey comes in at 12 pounds. “It’s a young man’s deal,” Larry acknowledges. He’s seen it firsthand. “Once Dad got to about 52 or 53, he just started slowing me down. He was more in the way.” So rather than becoming a burden as they get older, Larry and Geana are starting to let the next generation take their turn. “We still go out from time to time. We’ve become more like consultants.”
The company boasts tens of thousands of workers, but far fewer if you’re just counting the two-legged variety. “During harvest season, there are 13 to help harvest quickly,” Geana says. There are five beekeepers full-time in the field, with additional help as needed. Overall, there are between 12 and 25 employees, depending on the time of year.
Of course, this is still a family business. So, when there’s a big push, even Larry and Geana’s grandchildren help out.
Each generation of Hilberts has been about innovation. Beyond the honey butter, Geana says Larry’s grandfather was one of the first to market comb honey. Larry’s father was among the first to put bees on a pallet. And as tastes and needs change, the product line continues to evolve. “Honeycomb has become more popular, especially for charcuterie boards,” Jason notes.
It’s a challenging way of life. Given the travel, hard work, dealing with landowners and farmers … not everyone would embrace it. “It’s a different kind of lifestyle,” Geana agrees.
WHERE TO BUY
A part of the popular Taste the Local Difference program, Hilbert’s Honey is available at stores across the region, such as Anderson’s IGA, Bunting’s and Leland Mercantile in Leelanau County, Oleson’s Food Stores, Peninsula Market on Old Mission, Oryana and Harbor Springs IGA. And if you’re not near any of those, you can always shop online.
hilbertshoneyco.com
“We work with the grandchildren who are ageappropriate,” Geana says. “They earn a lot of money and learn about bees. Some are more interested than others.”
Could there be a sixth generation of Hilberts? It’s a little early to say for sure, but it’s a possibility. Likely a family legacy James Hilbert Sr. never imagined in his wildest dreams when he first brought bees to his farm. A sweet thought indeed.
Ross Boissoneau has covered the business, culture and lifestyle scenes in the region for more than 30 years. He’s written for numerous local and national publications, print and online, including Something Else! Reviews, the Ticker and Local Spins.
Brian D. Smith is a photographer whose work focuses on storytelling. He is influenced by the qualities of his subjects and summers spent at his grandfather’s cottage in Bear Lake, Michigan.
KTHE KNOCKOUT
MEET THE ALL-FEMALE SAILING CREW TAKING THE RACE SCENE BY STORM.
By EMILY HOPCIAN Photos by BETH PRICE On a wednesday evening in early June, there’s a slight buzz in the air at the Grand Traverse Yacht Club. Dinghies hum their way through the water out to vacant vessels, and as the various crews (around 40, in total) gather on their sailboats and get ready to race, they breathe life into the warm summer air. From a dinghy named Chase Her, chit-chat and laughter float on the breeze as a group of women motors out to their sailboat, a J/92 with a sleek, navy blue exterior and a white deck. One by one, the women climb aboard the boat and their chatter swiftly slides into a finely choreographed symphony of motions and sounds. Together, the women remove the mainsail from its cover. The wind tousles the sail as it is unfurled and hoisted up the mast toward the slightly cloudy sky. The winches click, click, click as the crew wraps and pulls ropes around them, finding just the right amount of tension with the breeze. Electronic GPS and wind instruments are turned on, meeting the action of the evening with a series of beeps. As the women continue with race preparations, Libby Tomlinson, the crew’s captain, navigates the sailboat through the yacht club mooring field and out toward the race course in Grand Traverse Bay. Near the starting area, the boat weaves in and out of a fleet of white sailboats, which are mostly crewed by men. Knockout, the J/92 these women are sailing, is the only sailboat crewed completely by women.
K
The crew formed in 2013 and has evolved over the years, though there’s always been a mix of skill levels, ages and more. Tomlinson has never actively recruited members, yet every season, without fail, a mix of veterans and rookies find their way to Knockout. These women share a desire to learn, grow in different disciplines and simply be in community with other women on the water.
Over the past nine years, Tomlinson and the seasoned members of the crew have cultivated a space that is welcoming and supportive. Though make no mistake—every week, these women come to compete.
KnocKout is not only a unique opportunity on Grand Traverse Bay, but is also so in the world of sailing overall, as the sport is disproportionately male.
Registration information from Yacht Scoring, a widely used regatta registration platform, reveals that a mere 16 percent of competitors across all regattas from August 2020 through September 2021 were women.
AS THE VARIOUS CREWS GATHER ON THEIR SAILBOATS AND GET READY TO RACE, THEY BREATHE LIFE INTO THE WARM SUMMER AIR.
experiment wasn’t really there.”
Marian had a desire to learn more and take on bigger roles. She wasn’t finding that through the crew she and Lovell were sailing with, so she eventually went off and pursued other passions.
Meanwhile, Lovell didn’t lose sight of Marian’s desire to develop and grow as a sailor. He kept an eye out for opportunities and ultimately, around a decade ago, found an ally in Tomlinson, a fellow Grand Traverse Yacht Club member with experience not only sailing, but also teaching.
Following some exposure to sailing in high school, Tomlinson joined the sailing team as a sophomore at the University of Michigan. She taught sailing at Northport Point and then the San Diego Yacht Club in California and has since sailed in Key West, Toronto and Europe. Today, she works for Quantum Sails, the second-largest
And a March 2022 article for Sailing World points out that sailing remains a male-dominated sport because people underestimate female sailors’ abilities, explaining that women are often “asked to round out a team in a way where the men expect minimal contribution to the sailing from them.” This, in turn, limits female sailors’ opportunities for development and growth into other roles on their crew.
This was, more or less, Kim Marian’s experience—and the inspiration from which Knockout was born.
When Marian moved to Traverse City more than 20 years ago, she started racing with her husband, Rob Lovell, an experienced change to a longtime sailor, and his crew. “It was fun,” she says. “I enjoyed going out, but as time went on, it became more evident to me that I was the wife of [a sailor] and not my own independent person.”
Marian is quick to note that the crew she was sailing with is top-notch and that her comment is not a criticism of its members. She learned a lot from that crew simply by being involved on the boat. “They were just a fine-tuned machine,” she says. “For me, the chance to explore and
sailmaking company in the world, headquartered in Traverse City.
“Libby and I had been talking for a couple years, making the observation that we needed to buy a boat for the women to sail,” Lovell recalls. “The men would let them do a little, but they wouldn’t let them do enough, and you learn better and quicker when you do things.”
Lovell and Tomlinson saw a need and had a desire to create a positive learning environment for Marian and other women, no matter their level of experience. It was decided Tomlinson would captain the crew, although she admits to having doubts about the decision.
“I did some skippering in college,” she says. “I had a Laser for a while and did weekly races at the yacht club for a couple of summers, but I didn’t have a huge amount of driving experience. So, I came into this thinking, ‘I’m a novice at the helm among a crew of mostly beginner sailors. This could be interesting! But I think I can do it.’”
Tomlinson and Lovell set out to find a boat that would be easy to own and ideal for teaching and sailing with a crew that ranged in experience. They landed on a B-25, a 25-footer well suited for a crew of five to six smaller people. “It was the right size, the right tool for the job,” Tomlinson says.
“I couldn’t think quickly enough of a reason not to buy it, so we did. That’s how it started,” Lovell recalls.
When it came to naming the boat, the women led the charge, but the whole yacht club was involved in the fun.
“We went round and round on the name,” Tomlinson says. “There was a whiteboard upstairs at the yacht club, and we probably had 50 ideas for names on there. All kinds of silly stuff. The meaning of the name was intended to be [twofold], playing on this idea of boxing and being tough—‘We’re going to knock you out in this competition’—and the idea that yes, we’re a bunch of cute girls.”
The Knockout crew sailed on the B-25 for their first six seasons. Then, in fall 2018, Tomlinson and Lovell sold the B-25 and bought a larger J/92, their current boat, to accommodate a growing crew of seven or eight.
It’s race night on knockout, and this evening’s crew consists of seven women: Tomlinson, Petra Kuehnis, Kristen Hasbrouck, Sage Brown, Tammi Hollis, Amy Ranger and Michelle Kuffer. As they glide toward the starting area, Tomlinson starts asking questions of the crew and calling out commands as they go.
As Hasbrouck checks the jib leads, Tomlinson notes how small changes in the control lines make significant changes to the shape of the sail and works with Hasbrouck to correct it. Knockout circles the race committee boat, and the women study a board displaying the race course and wind
Previous spread: Libby Tomlinson, Petra Keuhnis and Kim Marian aboard Knockout. This spread (clockwise from top left): Guest crew Katie Phelps pulls a halyard to raise a sail at the mast; Sherry Small, Petra Keuhnis, Michelle Kuffer and Tammi Hollis roll the mainsail post-race; (From left) Katie Phelps, Sherry Small, Petra Keuhnis, Tammi Hollis and Sage Brown sail out to the race course; Michelle Kuffer on the bow, checking for nearby boats.
direction. When another fleet takes off before them, they watch the boats in that group to see what they do and where they experience success.
All the while, Tomlinson and Brown, the youngest member of the team at 18 years old, keep an eye on the clock, counting down the minutes to the start of the race. Tomlinson steers Knockout toward the starting line, maneuvering among the other boats.
“One minute!”
There’s a somewhat nervous but mostly excited—and oddly peaceful—energy to the evening. Perhaps it comes with years of sailing together, though every week is undoubtedly a little different for this crew. From the bow to the
“Rob hung out at the yacht club a lot and started talking about what we were doing,” Tomlinson says. “People were hearing about it. Husbands were mentioning it to their wives. Friends were mentioning it to friends. People just came to me and said, ‘I heard about what you’re doing. I want to do this with you!’”
Today, the Knockout crew ranges in age from 18 to 63 and spans professions from a landscape architect, to a civil engineer, to a massage therapist, to a pilates instructor and more.
During Knockout’s first season, Tomlinson and Kuehnis were coming up to speed in their positions, working together and navigating
stern, each woman is fully focused. Some adjust sails. Others keep an eye on the race course for wind and other boats. All the while, their ears are trained on Tomlinson and Brown.
“Ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, two …” Following Tomlinson and Brown’s countdown, the echo of a signal horn marks the start of the race, and just like that, Knockout is cutting through the water alongside seven other sailboats.
Though this crew works and sails quite effortlessly together now, it wasn’t always this way. During Knockout’s first few seasons, these women were coming together as one crew—and some were learning to sail for the first time.
That first season, Tomlinson knew she needed at least one other woman with sailing experience to help run the boat.
“If I’m on the driving end trimming the main, somebody has to do the other end and be able to help coach,” she says. “My best friend, Petra Kuehnis, has been a very integral part of Knockout in that regard. She and I were the ones in the know when it came to sailing knowledge.”
Tomlinson and Kuehnis met through the Grand Traverse Yacht Club when Kuehnis first moved to Traverse City. They originally sailed on the same boat and then separately on other boats before Tomlinson asked Kuehnis to sail with her on Knockout.
From there, interest grew organically and the crew took shape.
Clockwise from top left: Libby Tomlinson at the helm with trimmer, Michelle Kuffer, during the starting sequence; The team sails downwind; Michelle Kuffer holds out a spinnaker sheet with her feet; Tammi Hollis spots the leeward mark; Swimming into the yacht club from the mooring after a race is a summer tradition on Knockout; Libby Tomlinson, Amy Ranger, Tammi Hollis, Petra Keuhnis and Sage Brown toast to great friendships and a successful race.
what they were doing while instructing the other crew members and answering their questions.
That summer, the Knockout women spent more time on the boat than most other crews, practicing on Tuesdays and racing on Wednesdays. From May through September, they worked on finding a position for each person to focus on. Each member learned their position as well as how to work together with the team. They’d go on mock roundings and, with time, started learning some different maneuvers.
“The first summer was really fun because I was doing something completely new and challenging myself,” Kuehnis says. “It was novel. There weren’t very many womenonly boats really anywhere. Everyone was so excited about it and willing to learn.”
The energy was electric. Everyone was excited to be on the water. Though the learning curve was steep, the women were getting better every time they went out, especially as they learned their positions and also how to communicate efficiently as a team.
“It was really cool because we were all out there learning together,” Marian says. “We all make mistakes as we learn, and it was a place where you could make a mistake. We learned from Libby and Petra and also through trial and error, which is sometimes the best way.”
The crew quickly found that on the boat it was time to focus. There was no time for chit-chat. “Being beginners, they didn’t realize everything that was actually going on and how they could contribute,” Tomlinson says. “Now, we have people watching for puffs and waves, keeping an eye on the competition or on the fleets ahead and looking for big shifts. There’s a lot to see out there, if you know where to look.”
That first season and in the seasons that have followed, Knockout has made steady progress. The crew has maintained excellent attendance, even achieving perfect attendance in some seasons, among the boats at the Grand Traverse Yacht Club.
“The yacht club was really excited about what we had done and how much improvement we made that first season,” Tomlinson says. “They bestowed the great honor of ‘Boat of the Year’ to Knockout, and we were truly shocked. That was a huge deal.”
Over the course of the first few years, Tomlinson says Knockout went from placing in the lower middle to winning races more often. The crew was awarded “Boat of the Year” again in 2019, their first season on the J/92, and has placed first or second each season since.
Sailing on Knockout isn’t limited to Wednesday evening races. The crew will occasionally race in other local events at the Grand Traverse Yacht Club as well as at other yacht clubs. They’ve also sailed out of Charlevoix and up to Beaver Island and back.
Following the race (Knockout places first in its fleet on this particular Wednesday), the crew sails back to the yacht club and derigs the boat. Then, with Knockout tucked in for the night, as the summer light glows across the bay, the crew pull out drinks and snacks, circle around the cockpit of the boat and sink into an easy rhythm of conversation and camaraderie.
“Once the boat is put away and you’re done racing, you talk about life,” Marian says. “You’ve got a built-in network of supportive people who are there to listen to you, offer advice and more. We’ve had crew members go through all kinds of things, and we’re always there to support each other.”
“The energy from this group is awesome,” Lovell adds. “The love that they have, the family bond—boats develop family bonds—the girls absolutely have that.”
Emily Hopcian is a writer, editor and content producer with a focus on character-driven stories of outdoor adventure and social and environmental impact. She calls both Northern Michigan and Argentine Patagonia home. emilyhopcian.com
Beth Price is an editorial and commercial photographer based in Northern Michigan. She’s passionate about capturing authentic human experiences that help achieve a greater appreciation for the natural world we live in.
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