Traverse + MAWBY FAMILY FARM
THE HEMINGWAY DAIQUIRI
WHITEFISH PÂTÉ
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Five Shores Brewing
Eat, Drink, Persevere
Chef Loghan Call
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
WELCOM E TO
T H E
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N O R T H
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Inspired Life
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joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168
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Traverse 03.21 INSIDE
F E AT U R E S
MyNorth .com DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.
24 GOOD CALL Chef Loghan's visionary vegan cuisine is rooted in nutrition and sustainability in many ways, including this beautiful pop-up dinner in Leelanau County. B Y G R E G TA S K E R | P H O T O S B Y B E N L A W
30 | BOUNTY HUNTING Fry 'em, whisk 'em, whip 'em. Four ways to cook and celebrate spring's abundance of farm fresh eggs. R E C I P E S B Y E M I LY T Y R A | P H O T O S B Y T O D D Z A W I S T O W S K I
32 | BEER FOR THE PEOPLE Opening a business during a pandemic wasn’t the plan, but Five Shores is glad they chose Beulah, where community makes all the difference. BY CHRIS LOUD | PHOTOS BY JESSE DAVID GREEN
38 | DON'T CALL IT A COMEBACK When the pandemic hit, local food and drink businesses fought back. They share the challenges and triumphs of 2020 (and a few goodies you're going to want to taste this month). B Y C A R LY S I M P S O N
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Chef Loghan Call sees food as medicine, and his business, Planted Cuisine, is committed to sharing that message.
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Good Call
Inspired by Northern Michigan’s rich and bountiful landscape, CHEF LOGHAN CALL
shares his visionary vegan cuisine, rooted in nutrition and sustainability.
by GREG TASKER photos by BEN LAW
i
t seems appropriate that Loghan Call, a chef passionate about building a regenerative food system, would plant himself in northwest lower Michigan, a largely rural community that has long embraced the bounty of the rolling, bucolic landscape: acres and acres of cherry and fruit orchards, flowing fields of corn and grains, gardens brimming with berries and vegetables, and forests thick with mushrooms and other edibles. The abundance and that connection to the land—and the lakes, for that matter—has sprouted mom-and-pop farms, niche food entrepreneurs and a farm-to-table movement that consistently ranks Traverse City among the top foodie towns in the country. Less publicized, and perhaps far lesser-known, are efforts to cultivate organic fruits and vegetables and create a healthy food system that begins to put soil health first.
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by Chris Loud / photos by Jesse David Green
Beer for the People. Five Shores Brewing—a beloved addition to Benzie County’s craft beverage scene
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Award-winning brewmaster Oliver Roberts, along with his business partner Matt Demorest, opened Five Shores Brewing in January 2020— surviving the pandemic thanks to a supportive community.
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WHEN THE PANDEMIC HIT, LOCAL FOOD AND DRINK BUSINESSES PUT ON THE GLOVES.
DON'T CALL IT A
COMEBACK
BY CARLY SIMPSON
ONE LONG YEAR AFTER THE FIRST CASE OF COVID-19 WAS CONFIRMED IN MICHIGAN, SOME BUSINESSES HAVE CLOSED THEIR DOORS PERMANENTLY AND OTHERS ARE STILL STRUGGLING. YET DESPITE THE FEAR AND UNCERTAINTY CAUSED BY THE PANDEMIC, OR PERHAPS IN DEFIANCE OF IT, THERE ARE ALSO STORIES OF SUCCESS AND GRATITUDE. WE TALKED WITH A RESTAURATEUR, FARMER, GROCER, WINEMAKER, BREWER AND OTHERS WHO SHARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES OF 2020, THE TRIUMPHS AND A FEW GOODIES YOU’RE GOING TO WANT TO TASTE THIS MONTH.
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D I S T I L L E RY :
Iron Fish Distillery 14234 DZUIBANEK RD., THOMPSONVILLE IRONFISHDISTILLERY.COM PARTNER: SARAH ANDERSON
MOST PROUD OF: I believe our team has so much to be proud of, but first and foremost was our incredibly quick pivot to producing hand sanitizer when our region was in desperate, dire need. We ended up being the exclusive supplier to the Munson Healthcare system at a critical period of time and donated over 500 gallons of hand sanitizer to regional frontline workers and nonprofits. We created connections to communities and people we never dreamed of, and so many other regional businesses were there to help us get it done. Being able to help when things are scary and hopeless, it was a gift everyone at Iron Fish will be eternally grateful for.
PAIR IT: A Thistle Burger from Thistle Pub and Grille at Crystal Mountain. We are lucky to have Crystal Mountain as our neighbors at the distillery (2.5 miles away), especially now because the takeout food they offer is amazing! The Thistle Burger is local beef, topped with Guinness Cheddar. The spirit-forward sweetness of the salted maple old f ashioned is a perfect complement.
G R O C E RY S T O R E :
Hansen Foods of Suttons Bay 91 W. FOURTH ST., SUTTONS BAY HANSENFOODSOFSB.COM OWNERS: CONNIE FROST, COREY FROST, DANI FROST-DERIGIOTIS, DAN DERIGIOTIS
MOST PROUD OF: We quickly adjusted to offer curbside service. We nailed down a system that worked for us, all while still getting items to customers in an efficient manner. Unlike corporate stores that have third-party outside help to make this service work, our own staff was doing everything to fulfill orders. From responding to emails, taking orders over the phone, shopping and checking out items, processing payments and carrying the orders out to vehicles ... it truly was a team effort we are proud of. The willingness of our staff to adjust, all while keeping our normal daily operations flowing, was (and still is) commendable.
photo by Andy Wakeman
FAVE COCKTAIL TO MAKE AT HOME: A salted maple old fashioned. This cozy sipper combines our bourbon finished in maple syrup barrels, our barrelaged maple syrup and our barrel-aged aromatic bitters! The glorious trifecta is topped with a few flakes of highquality salt and an orange peel.
Sarah Anderson
GROCERY SHORTAGES: The shortages we experienced were a major problem. We had maximum allocation amounts that we could order on highdemand items. Our allotment was at times one case of an item. If that allotted case held 12 units, that meant only 12 shoppers would receive it. At times we were running out of items moments after we stocked them on our shelves. In turn, this meant an entire week would go by before we were allotted another case. And the cycle continued. It was frustrating to us and frustrating to the public. We still have limits in place on items like rubbing alcohol, disinfectant wipes and paper products. Some brands are foreseeing shortages that could run all the way into summer 2021. SOMEONE YOU’D LIKE TO THANK: We have to foremost thank our incredible staff for sticking with us. Many of them could have decided to not show up, but their loyalty to us and their dedication to the community is truly remarkable and unforgettable. We have also received countless thanks from our customers. From handwritten letters, generous gratuities and positive words—it means so much to all of us.
NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE
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The Culinary North Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST.,
TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH
North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD •
Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD •
BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325
BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168
Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124 CASS,
Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239
Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR
TRAVERSE CITY–WEST
Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY,
13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079
Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.
• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393
Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT
$$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093
Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832
231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800
231.941.7632
LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053
ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733
Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger and lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807
Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
Rough-hewn eatery affords a great Apache Trout Grill bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$
Harrington’s By The Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRAVERSE
Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165
RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213
The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203
Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY,
West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922
Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N.,
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860
Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000
Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 US31,
BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE
The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843
Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, award-winning Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST.,
• $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121
The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,
231.352.4114
The Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136
North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST.,
Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas. LD • BAR
VILLE, 231.378.2554
• $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441
Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BENZIE
Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines. LD • BAR
BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499
• $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751
Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere. Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR,
T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD • BAR •
231.227.1200
$ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174
The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere.
LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZONIA, 231.882.9631
Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD • $-$$
CADILLAC
50
231.723.8000
Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSON-
Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR • $-$$$
231.534.8888
Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE,
FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118
245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250
Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,
FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA
Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD
TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773
255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000
BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810
86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020
BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC
• BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000
TRAVERSE CITY–EAST
Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. LD •
Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717
231.929.8989
231.929.090
231.775.5332
FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702
Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's hot brunch spot serves up what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300, TRAVERSE CITY, Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY,
Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC,
The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. LD• BAR
TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453
231.409.8382
• BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575
CITY, 231.252.4648
Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR
• $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912
Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD
Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461
Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD
FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants
• BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563
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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call
I
t is well known that Ernest Hemingway spent childhood summers at Windemere, on Walloon Lake. It’s also common knowledge that the famed 20th-century writer went on to become a heavy drinker in later years. But did you know there is a classic cocktail named for the notorious novelist? According to biographer A. E. Hotchner, Hemingway frequented a Havana bar called El Floridita, where bartender Constantino Ribalaigua would make the Nobel laureate a goblet of lime juice, grapefruit juice, a scant splash of maraschino liqueur and a whopping two-and-a-half jiggers of rum. This original, dubbed a Papa Doble, was “sour to the point of undrinkability,” writes Dale DeGroff in “The Essential Cocktail.” Over the decades, DeGroff and others have better balanced the original, creating a classic that is now known as the Hemingway Daiquiri. Some add a dash of simple syrup, but doing so makes it less, well, Hemingway—the author avoided sugar. While many associate daiquiris with the sun-kissed days of summer, we love shaking this classic during citrus season. It is traditionally garnished with a lime wedge, but here in our fruit belt a local cocktail cherry feels best, “especially a bourbonsoaked cherry,” says the Walloon Lake Inn’s Melissa Ogden (walloonlakeinn.com). The stone fruit garnish further eliminates a need for that dash of sugar, but if you sneak a few drops of syrup from the cherry jar into your glass, Northern Michigan’s summertime son will never know.
Prost, Papa! by STACEY BRUGEMAN
Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.
The Hemingway Daiquiri: A classic cocktail Michiganders should know about.
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F RO M
Hemingway Daiquiri
Add ice to a coupe glass to chill it. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the rum, lime juice, grapefruit juice, and maraschino liqueur. Shake vigorously until the mixture is cold. Discard the ice in the coupe, strain contents of the shaker into the glass and garnish with a cherry.
C E L L A R
Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.
WINE:
Amanda Danielson, sommelier of TC's Trattoria Stella, recommends the 2017 Shady Lane Cellars Blaufränkisch, a bottling with notes of blackberry, cedar and “an alluring crack of black pepper,” says Danielson. Suttons Bay winemaker Kasey Wierzba “took the generosity of the 2017 vintage, rewarded it with balanced oak and created a complex, cool-climate red wine.” shadylanecellars.com; $28 per bottle
BEER: Rick Jaissle, beer enthusiast at Blue Goat Wine & Provisions in Traverse City, is a fan of Barrel + Beam’s Pivot Point, a bière de garde that is lagered in Marquette. Jaissle suggests pairing the amber farmhouse ale with shellfish and salads. Give it a whirl with this month’s recipe (page 49) for Spring Greens with Whitefish Toast. barrelandbeam.com; $6 per 375ml bottle –S.B.
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photo by Dave Weidner / shot at Walloon Lake Inn
Serves 1 2 ounces white rum 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice 1/2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice 1/2 ounce maraschino liqueur such as Luxardo
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