Looking for more? The What’s On Iceland tourist information and booking centres are located in downtown Reykjavík. Visit us during your stay in Iceland for information and tour www.whatson.isbookings.Laugavegur5• 101 Reykjavík
The northern lights are back. They never really left, of course. But during the bright summer nights of the subarctic island, the midnight sun is powerful enough to outshine the stars, the moon, and the aurora borealis.
The northern lights are a natural phenomenon, occurring when solar storms eject gusts of particles out into space. When they hit the atmosphere, they burn up, appearing as wisps of coloured light in the night sky above the earth’s magnetic poles. The lights appear above the clouds so for the perfect conditions for a northern lights viewing, head out of town on a cloudless night, when the aurora forecast looks promising (more on that in this issue of What’s On) and let your aurora hunting guide take you to the best viewing spots. Be patient! You never know when the lights come out. Once you’ve checked that box, it’s time to enjoy the rest of your trip. Take your time and relax. The northern lights may be temperamental but the waterfalls, glaciers, and mountains aren’t going anywhere.
WHAT’S ON — VOLUME 40 — ISSUE 9 Published by: MD Reykjavík ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Tel.: 551-3600 Contact us: info@whatson.is Publisher: Kjartan Þorbjörnsson Distribution: info@baeklingadreifing.is Tel.: 662-6122 Map of Reykjavík: Friðrik Bjarnason Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is Content writers: The What’s On Team Ad sales: Sigurþór Marteinn, sm@whatson.is Printing: Kroonpress Ltd. WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavík. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVÍK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change. 5041 Kroonpress0787 NORDIC SWA N ECOLAB E L 4 WHAT’S ON Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
Ok, so Reykjavík is a vibrant and lively city. Iceland’s waterfalls are impressive and the glaciers majestic, not to mention the south coast’s glacial lagoon. And yeah, visiting an erupting geyser and then a few minutes later relaxing into a pool of geothermal water is pretty cool and all, but we all know why you’re really here.
CONTENT LIST FROM THE EDITOR WHAT’S ON 4-67 REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP 50-51 EVENTS 68-83 ART & CULTURE 84-88 PUBS & NIGHTLIFE 90-91 WINING & DINING 93-95 What’s On Information Centre, Laugavegur 5.
BreathtakingExperienceis a A journey into RAUFARHÓLSHELLIR For more information and www.thelavatunnel.isbookings:+354519 1616 +354 760 info@thelavatunnel.is1000 Only 35 min. from Reykjavík The highlight of our Iceland trip! The “Must See” event in Iceland Reviewed on TripAdvisor
THE WHAT’S ON CHECKLIST
Here are What’s On’s tips for this month: 6
Rediscover how little you are by gazing at the immensity of the northern lights’ solar wind. Watch a movie in the pool at Sundbíó, part of the Reykjavík International Film Festival. Sea swim at Nauthólsvík geothermal heated beach. Go on a whale watching tour to meet some dolphins, minke whales and humpback whales. Tour the Snæfellsnes peninsula, aka “Iceland in Miniature.”
While you’re checking things off the list, snap some photos and tag #whatsonrvk on Instagram.
Check out the wildly colourful Icelandic Pop art master Erro at Hafnarhús Museum. Sniff the drying fish heads on top of the land art installation at Þúfa hill by the harbour.
September is a great month to be in Iceland. As the seasons turn, the longer evenings mean the awesome cosmic event that is the northern lights are coming to town. Why not hike to the eerie landscape around the ‘will it/won’t it keep erupting’ Volcano at Meradalir on a clear day, then soak in a geothermal pool to soothe those tired muscles. Need a cold water reset? You’re in the right place, why not take a dip in the (slightly) heated bay at Nauthólsvík thermal beach.
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@edu_calde @eyrunlydia #WhatsOnRVK on Instagram@gabrykara @coraliedudafotografie @ania.churas @annas_walkingadventures So you’re in Iceland, taking in the sights and everything else this magnificent country has to offer. Why not share it with the world? Tag your photos #WhatsOnRvk and you might be featured in our magazine next month! Browse the entire What’s On catalogue at www.whatson.is. 8 WHAT’S ON Find us on Instagram! @whatsoniceland
@ritinhascardoso @sharon.blanche@veronicasantosgoncalves@thor_photography @paul_oostveen@lottasworld 9 WHAT’S ON Find us on Instagram! @whatsoniceland
ÍSEY WITHSKYRBLUBERRIES
Kea skyr comes from the northern part of Iceland, and this is one of the most popular flavours available. The taste is full and creamy, with zero fat. Its mild and creamy flavour also makes it popular as a base for desserts.
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KEA WITHSKYRVANILLA
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ÍCELANDIC PROVISIONS SKYR If you find yourself in the US, craving skyr, don’t panic! This is the only skyr available in the US that’s made with traditional Icelandic skyr cultures, passed down through generations of Icelanders. Rich in protein but low in sugar, with flavours that have a Nordic twist, such as Strawberry with Lingonberry. Icelandic Provisions skyr is only available in the US and is a sister brand of Ísey Skyr.
ÍSEY SKYR WITH DARK CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA Skyr producers have been experimenting with new flavours in Ísey skyr while still keeping it as nutritious as possible. One of the more recent additions is Ísey skyr with dark chocolate and vanilla flavour.
LIVINGHEALTHYSECRETICELAND’STO SKYR
Ísey skyr is a remarkable dairy product unique to Iceland. High in protein and naturally fat free, Ísey skyr is delicious, rich in flavour with a thick and creamy ture. Ísey is a beautiful Icelandic female name, meaning ice (ís) and island (ey), in honour of the women who passed on Iceland‘s secret to healthy living from generation to generation.
Legend has it that the Vikings introduced Skyr to Iceland when they settled in the country some 1.100 years ago. Travel back in time to any farm, and Skyr would be on the table – essential nourishment for young and old. Generations past may not have been able to measure the nutritional content in the way we can now, but the life expectancy of the average Icelander was proof enough that something good was going on. Icelanders have ever since loved the smooth texture of this incredibly healthy dairy product, and today it plays a big role in the modern diet. Skyr is high in protein and a virtually fat-free dairy delight. Thick and creamy in consistency, it is also rich in calcium and other nutrients. Skyr can be found at almost every home and workplace. Enjoyed at breakfast, lunchtime, pretty much anytime, it has also become a healthy “fast-food” for active people on the go. Delicious in smoothies or energy-boosting drinks, it even features on the dessert menus of many top restaurants, which are bringing a contemporary twist to this established favourite.
ÍSEY SKYR – PLAIN Skyr was originally only available as plain and was made at every farm in Iceland. Nowadays, there is a huge variety of flavours available but many still prefer the plain one, especially served with sugar and/or cream.
ICELAND‘S SECRET TO HEALTHY LIVING HIGH PROTEIN – FAT FREE iseyskyr.is
LAUGAVEGUR 54 / 101 REYKJAVÍK
WHAT TO DO IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY TO SPEND IN ICELAND
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The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík – and it’s easy to see why. The classic route includes three stops that also happen to be three of the most captivating natural wonders in Iceland. Tour operators may add their own twists, but you’re sure to stop at Þingvellir, a national park straddling the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; Gullfoss, an awe-inspiring waterfall that lends its name to the Golden Circle (gull translates to gold); and the Geysir geothermal area, with an erupting hot spring guaranteed to impress. You can complete the Golden Circle in half a day (depending on the tour you book), leaving you time to squeeze more into your short stay.
Our first piece of advice if you have just one day to spend in Iceland is to change your flight and stay for at least a week. If that’s not an option, here’s what we suggest to get the most out of this unique destination in such a short time.
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If you just want to see the highlights
If you want to visit the latest volcano
The Reykjanes peninsula reminds us for the second year running why Iceland is known as the Land of Fire and Ice. The Meradalir eruption began on August 3rd. At the time of writing it is still active (the only thing predictable about volcanoes is their unpredictability). Only time will tell how long the eruption lasts. The site of the eruption is an hour’s drive south of the capital and accessible to anyone that can handle a four to five hour hike, plus however
14 long you want to spend gazing at the volcano.
There is also of course the birds-eye view option by helicopter or light aircraft. If you do hike, please don’t walk on the young lava fields in the adjoining valleys! Lava takes years to fully cool, so there may be molten lava just beneath the seemingly solid surface. Check out the what’s on Iceland website, www.whatson.is for up to date info. If you want to see a glacier There’s no better way to get a feel for the latter half of Iceland’s “Land of Fire and Ice” moniker than to go on a glacier hike. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and accessible for most, especially because professional gear is provided. You get to walk on a glacier with guides who know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. What’s cooler than that? If you want a little luxury What’s better than a spa day? Visiting a geothermal spa fed by Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver. At Krauma Natural Geothermal Baths, the water from the hot spring is mixed with cool glacial water for a perfect temperature. It has five hot tubs and one cold bath, plus a relaxation room, two steam baths and an infrared sauna. Alternatively, if you don’t want to leave the capital area, book the seven-step “Ritual” at the Sky Lagoon for a luxurious afternoon of soaking, steaming, scrubbing and other soothing activities.
If you want an adrenaline rush Are you looking for a thrill? Go on a buggy ride. A buggy is a fast, sturdy and stable ATV, perfect for anyone who loves to get their blood pumping in the great outdoors – and who doesn’t mind getting a little dirty in the process. Driving a buggy through rough Icelandic terrain, over mud puddles, dirt roads or snow, makes for an exhilarating day. If you want to hit the high seas Marine life abounds in the water around Iceland, and you can see everything from harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins to minke and humpback whales on a whale watching tour. Tour boats depart Reykjavík’s old harbour throughout the day, cruising to the spots where sightings are most likely. Nothing beats the thrill of seeing a massive whale breach or watching one slap its enormous flukes on the water’s surface. If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition to learn more about these gentle giants.
Stop by the What’s On information centre, or send us an email, info@whatson.is , and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.
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A great experience regardless of lights. Going by boat is a very good choice for those who want to ensure they get something out of their tour even if no lights are found. Being out at sea and viewing the city lights from the water is in itself a great experience.
Different ways to see the northern lights: Towards the end of August, it gradually starts to get dark at night again. Luckily, that means that the northern lights are back. They never really left, they were just drowned out by the midnight sun. Seeing the northern lights is a sublime experience, and we recommend seeking them out while you are in Iceland. The phenomenon is caused when solar flares interact with the earth’s magnetic field about 80 miles up. It’s sometimes called the ‘solar wind,’ which moves like a wisp of smoke caught in a slow draft. Their movement might seem familiar, but the scale is so vast and unlike anything else that it’s… well, it’s hard to put into words. Better to see for yourself.
Going by boat:
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Going by coach: Cheap and effective. A northern lights tour by bus or minibus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about being surrounded by a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and it gets the job done.
The northern lights aren’t a reliable attraction, and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.
backLightsNorthernTheare
WHAT’S ON Going by super-jeep: Exclusive and thrilling. Going on a hunt for the lights with a specially modified superjeep is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of a superjeep makes for a great adventure, the lights are just an added bonus. 1 GET OUT OF TOWN The city lights block the northern lights! 2 MAKE SURE IT’S DARK Daylight and northern lights don’t go hand in hand! 3 MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR The northern lights appear way above the clouds! 4 GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT! The northern lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky! 5 SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as northern lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed! 6 WEAR SOMETHING WARM It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time. 7 KNOW YOUR CAMERA! Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends! 8 ENJOY IT! Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy! Book your northern lights tour now online or at the What’s On tourist information centre, at Laugavegur 5. Top 8 tips for the northern lights Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings. DON’T rule out taking a photo on your phone’s camera.
If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5.
NORTHERN LIGHTS PHOTOGRAPHY s AND DON'Ts
DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the northern lights every day!
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DON’T forget to plan ahead when booking your northern lights tour- finding a stable surface on a boat is difficult, and large group tours might make your photography ses sion more difficult.
DO
DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5 and 20 seconds (30 seconds is only for very faint lights, basically).
DON’T forget your tripod. However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move and it’s enough to make your photos blurry.
DO consider using continuous shooting, so that while shooting the lights, you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera.
DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes.
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White means no clouds while dark green means very cloudy. The different shades of green then mean more, or less, cloudy.
The numbers
HOW TO READ THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
The Colours
FORECASTFindmorearticleslikethisatwww.whatson.is
The numbers are a combination of how likely it is for the lights to be active and how active they will be. Don’t be discouraged if the number is low, it’s actually very rare for the number to be higher than five. Also, take the scale with a grain of salt; a low number doesn’t mean that they won’t come out or won’t be impressive, and a high number isn’t a guarantee that they will be glorious all through the night. The northern lights forecast can be found on en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/, but it is a little hard to decipher if you’ve never seen it before. Our handy-dandy guide should make things a little bit easier.
Going on a tour?
There are many tours taking you far from the bright city lights for a better chance of seeing the aurora. These tours will be cancelled if there is no chance of seeing the lights. All major operators can be trusted to do this, first of all, because there is a high standard of professionalism in Iceland, but more importantly, because they lose money if they take you out needlessly – most of them promise to take you out again for free if you don’t see anything.
Reykjavík101 CourseCrash more articles like this at www.whatson.is
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WHY IS THAT?
Well, the centre of Reykjavík has a history of being home to people that like to think they know more than the rest of Iceland. Not only have the rulers of Reykjavík and Iceland always lived and worked there, but some of Iceland’s oldest and most respected schools are also there, including the University of Iceland. Hallgrímur Helgason’s book 101 Reykjavík (and the movie based on the book) also helped to solidify the reputation of 101-dwellers as hopeless dreamers that never do an honest day’s work and spend their nights partying. You’ll have to decide if that’s a negative or positive stereotype. HOW IS IT? As the heart of the Icelandic capital, 101 has plenty of things to see, do, eat, and drink. It’s also ripe with historical buildings, museums, galleries, shops, and restaurants and boasts the highest café-to-building ratio in all of Iceland. If you’re staying in Reykjavík, you must visit 101 Reykjavík. In fact, you could have a perfectly nice vacation (or a life) never leaving 101 Reykjavík at all.
area. However, 101 has gained some deep-rooted cultural connotations over the years. It’s a way of life. In the eternal struggle between city life and country life, 101 Reykjavík has become synonymous with the intellectual, artistic type who sips lattés and wears scarves.
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GLJÚFRASTEINN THE LAXNESS MUSEUM
Gljúfrasteinn was the home of writer Halldór Laxness (the winner of The Nobel Prize in Literature 1955) and his family for more than half a century. The house is now a museum, where the author’s home is preserved just as it was when he lived and worked there.
The museum is open on Tuesdays to Fridays from Audio10:00–17:00.guidesofthe house are available in Icelandic, English, German, Swedish, and Danish, as well as an illustrated guide in French.
Gljúfrasteinn-Laxness museum is located in the valley of Mosfellsdalur on the way to Þingvellir National Park, only a 20-minute drive from ForReykjavík.moreinformation, go to www.gljufrasteinn.is.
2. And in second Place… Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan - 85km2
3. Enter the Volcano In Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth, the heroes climb down a crater on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to find vast oceans filled with extinct prehistoric creatures. While an encounter with a herd of mastodons is unlikely, a trip to Þríhnúkagígur (Thrihnukagigur) still feels pretty Jules Verne. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world
1. Liberty, Equality, Fraternity... Volcanicity? The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was the biggest eruption in recorded history. An estimated 42 billion tonnes of poisonous gases and dust darkened the skies. Haze from the eruption floated east as far away as India, disrupting the monsoon and leading to drought and crop failures. The famine that hit Egypt in 1784, was a result of the eruption, and killed roughly one-sixth of its population. While back in Iceland an estimated 20–25% of the population died from famine, and over half the livestock was poisoned or killed by giant hailstones. Food shortages contributed to social unrest across Europe and contributed to the French Revolution of 1789 that gave birth to western democracy.
22 WHAT’S ON Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
7 FACTS DON’T(PROBABLY)YOUKNOW ABOUT VOLCANOES
4. New Earth Surtsey, Iceland’s most southern point was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law, and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, which has, of course, been invaluable to scientists
million years ago, our volcanoes would have been terrorising dinosaurs somewhere in Canada.
7. Iceland has a volcanic eruption every 4-5 years The island has somewhere between 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. The most recent eruption at Meradalir is about 1 kilometre from 2021’s eruption at Fagradalsfjall valley, which marked the first eruption on the Reykanes peninsula in over 700 years. where you can descend into the magma chamber. Discovered in 1974 and opened to the public in 2012.
5. SuperFresh Lava Iceland has a third of the world’s fresh lava. ‘Fresh’ is a relative term that may need defining. When discussing Arctic Char, it’s best measured in hours. In geological time fresh lava means lava that’s less than five hundred years old. Iceland is full of these ‘Here’s one I prepared earlier’ landscapes offering snapshots of geological time and processes.
6. Icelandic volcanoes are on the move! Due to changes in on the tectonic level of the earth, Iceland’s volcanoes are actually moving east. Veeeeeeeery slowly. If you visited Iceland 20 million years ago, the volcanoes would all have been situated in the West Fjords. Fifty million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, you would find our volcanoes living happily in Greenland, and 70 Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
CHECK OUT THE SAFE TRAVEL APP
3. Be extra careful when visiting geothermal areas
The emergency number in Iceland is 112. You can dial it free of charge to reach emergency services like ambulances, rescue teams, and the police, and there is also a 112 app that can send your information to emergency services at the press of a button
1. Familiarise yourself with Iceland’s emergency numbers
With a subarctic climate and a tiny population, Iceland is a little different from other popular travel destinations. Desolate landscapes, extreme weather, mountain roads, geothermal areas, and the ocean can all catch the unprepared off-guard. Keep the following six safety guidelines in mind when planning your trip to Iceland. www.safetravel.isVisit www.whatson.is
2. Follow updates on Safetravel.is Icelandic weather is infamously fickle, and extreme weather is not uncommon. In wintertime, high wind speeds and snow can frequently limit visibility. Safetravel.is offers up-to-date road-condition maps, weather alerts, and plenty of helpful tips and information on the best and safest way to travel around the country. There’s an app for that, too. It’s well worth downloading and checking regularly throughout your travels.
How TraveltoSafely in Iceland Find more articles like this at
The water in geothermal areas can reach temperatures upward of 100°C. Falling in or slipping can result in severe burns. Safe paths are clearly marked, so stick to them, and never walk on ground that is steaming.
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someone
You can
www.safetravel.is. WHAT’S ON www.safetravel.isVisit M U L T I M E D I A E X H I B I T I O N
4. Keep a safe distance from the ocean
you’re
If you’re
Sneaker waves – disproportionally large waves that encroach farther onto shore than regular waves – are frequent occurrences at the Reynisfjara and Kirkjufjara beaches in South Iceland. Sneaker waves are more powerful than people expect, and accidents have proven fatal in the past. Keep a safe distance from the water and observe nearby signs. Stay on the path Whether visiting a waterfall, a geothermal area, or hiking in the mountains, staying on the marked footpath is imperative. Respect when paths are closed and heed all signs. It’s closed for a reason, either to protect you or fragile nature someone know where going planning on hiking or hitchhiking, let know where going and when you’ll be back. also upload your travel plan to
5.
you’re
6. Let
LAVA Centre is the best place to learn about the new Fagradalsfjall eruption, with new exhibits explaining the eruption and new film footage in the volcano cinema.
MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT www.lavacentre.is Open every day 9:00 - 16:00 Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland
The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area.
The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition. A world class exhibition on volcanoes and earthquakes surrounded by active volcanoes
Once you’ve crossed back over Skothúsvegur on your way back to City Hall, you’re at the spot with the best views over Tjörnin. Along this stretch of the walk, you’ll find the statue Úr Álögum, one of Einar Jónsson’s phenomenal statues decorating the city. This one depicts the tale of Saint George and REYKJAVÍK more articles like this at www.whatson.is
3 WALKS IN AND AROUND
ONCE AROUND THE POND
One of the first things you’ll discover upon visiting Reykjavík is that it’s very walkable. The majority of the city’s restaurants and shops are located along two streets – Skólavörðustígur and Laugavegur. If you want to explore the city beyond the confines of these well-trod roads, we have a few suggestions. Stretch your legs on these three walks in and around Reykjavík.
28 WHAT’S ON Find
Smack-dab in the middle of town, you’ll find Tjörnin, Reykjavík’s central pond. We recommend starting this walk at the north end of the pond, where the ducks congregate and take a clockwise route. You can start with greeting the ducks. If you have a snack for them (heed the signs about when it is and isn’t allowed to feed the ducks), a few may even swim alongside you on the first stretch of your walk. Take the lower sidewalk and cross over Skothúsvegur to leave the roadside and enter Hljómskalagarður park. While looping around the southern end of the pond, you’ll see the octagonal Hljómskálinn pavilion, the first structure in Reykjavík built for music events a statue of beloved poet Jónas Hallgrímsson, and a sculpture garden showcasing the works of some of Iceland’s most renowned female sculptors.
Walking along, you’ll encounter Pétur Bjarnason’s sculpture Partnership, which has a twin in Miami, U.S. The sculptures were made to commemorate 50 years of diplomatic relations between Iceland and the United States. Further along is Jóhann Eyfells’ Íslandsvarðan sculpture, which was completed in 2006 by pouring liquid metal into moulds the artist dug in the earth.
From here, either retrace your steps or cut up Katrínartún to Laugavegur and hang a right to meander back to the city centre.
DITCH THE PAVEMENT
If your idea of a walk means venturing off paved paths, head to Öskjuhlíð. Perlan tops the wooded hill on the outskirts of the city centre, and it is a lovely forest to wander through. It’s crisscrossed with rough paths, mountain bike ramps and massive rocks that are undoubtedly the remains of poor trolls that got caught out in the sun.
The DIY approach is all fine and good, but sometimes you want someone to guide you and regale you with fascinating trivia while you walk. If that’s more your speed, check out Reykjavík walking tours on WhatsOn.is. Happy walking! www.whatson.is
A personal favourite sculpture of this writer is Shore Piece by Sigurður Guðmundsson. It’s the largest piece displayed along this route, so you shouldn’t miss it.
the Dragon. There’s also a park bench at this point in the walk with a bronze likeness of poet Tómas Guðmundsson and a QR code you can use to listen to a reading of his poem “Hotel Earth”. Finish your walk with a visit to Reykjavík City Hall, where a massive topographic map of Iceland is often on display. Finally, exit City Hall via its long footbridge over the end of the pond, snap a picture with the Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat and head off to your next adventure. Distance: 1.5 km LET’S TALK ABOUT ART, BABY
Continue to the bright yellow Höfði lighthouse, and cross over Sæbraut to see Höfði House, where former Russian and U.S. presidents Mikhail Gorbachev and Ronald Reagan met in 1986 to discuss the end of the Cold War.
Öskjuhlíð was used as a lookout by British and American soldiers during the Second World War, so you may come across some abandoned bunkers during your walk. Signs have been erected explaining the history of the bunkers. Spend an hour wandering among the birch and pine trees, or continue down to Nauthólsvík geothermal area and follow the path due west to follow the seaside around the Reykjavík airport, heading back into the city centre when the path joins up with Suðurgata.
Distance: 1.5 km from Harpa to Höfði House
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The coastal path running east from the Harpa Concert Hall is named the Sculpture and Shore Walk. While it is dotted with some lovely art, it’s also an excellent path to walk, jog or cycle to get that fresh sea air in your lungs and sweeping views of Esja forever imprinted on your soul – it’s a stunning mountain.Butlet’s talk about the art. The walk starts at the Harpa, as mentioned above, so it should be pointed out that it is a work of art in its own right. Its iconic glass facade is the creation of Icelandic-Danish artist Ólafur Elíasson. Explore the interior and be sure to look up for a complete immersion in the majesty of the building. On with the walk. The first sculpture you’ll encounter is the beloved Sólfar, or the Sun Voyager. While it’s often mistaken for a Viking ship, artist Jón Gunnar Árnason created it as a sun ship, meant to convey a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It was unveiled on August 18, 1990, to commemorate Reykjavík’s 200th birthday.
Distance: Varies FOLLOW THE LEADER
It’s very old
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While Iceland’s horses get all the attention for being unique to the island, modern day Icelandic sheep are also direct descendants of the livestock that arrived with settlers in the 9th century. As such, they boast some characteristics that have long since disappeared from their relatives in Europe. Like their ancient forefathers, the Icelandic sheep are double coated, with an outer layer of long, coarse hair called ‘tog’ that repels water, and a short, soft and fluffy undercoat called ‘þel’, which is a perfect insulator.
This is a big part of what makes Icelandic wool –and the garments made with it – so special. … but it’s not old fashioned
There have been innovations in Icelandic wool. For instance, the two coat layers used to be separated by hand (a very labour-intensive process) and used for different purposes. In the 1920s, however, quicker new methods of processing the wool were created and Iceland’s famed ‘lopi’ – consisting of the two coats spun together to produce strands that are simultaneously light, warm, tough and waterproof – was born.
It’s colourful Icelandic sheep have always been bred in a variety of colours, and some farmers even pride themselves on preserving specific colours. The result is Icelandic wool being produced in as many colours as there are sheep, with the most common
6 TOTHINGSKNOW ABOUT WOOLICELANDIC 30 WHAT’S ON
Another of lopi’s magic tricks – one we absolutely 31
Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is and grey. Besides these classic “sheep colours”, lopi can also be found dyed in every colour of the rainbow. It’s great for knitting That double coat mentioned above gives lopi its dual-fibre structure, making it perfect for knitting garments that are warm, waterproof and light. Whether you intend to knit a scarf or try your hand at the intricate patterns of a famous Icelandic lopapeysa, lopi is ideal. Not only is it beautiful, it’s also easy to knit with (the loose-spun wool can be twisted back together if broken) and it felts easily. As any Icelandic child will tell you, lopi is scratchy right against the skin, so it’s best used for outer layers of clothing – unless you get your hands on some lambswool, that is. It’s magical stuff By “magical” we mean it’s self-cleaning, which is just about as close to magic as it gets for any parent trapped in an endless laundry cycle. Lopi garments need to be hand-washed, but it almost never needs to be washed. Thanks to the structure of the hair fibres, lopi doesn’t hold bacteria like cotton or synthetic materials do. So the only time you might need to wash your woollens is when they get stained (which is also rare, since they’re fairly waterproof). So just air them out and call it a day.
It’s versatile Icelandic wool looks great just about any way you knit it. And if you don’t knit yourself, just check out the range of products Icelanders have made with their wool as proof of its versatility – and its beauty. You can find everything from simple hats and mittens to the colourful scarves and blankets by Vík Prjónsdóttir. Of course, the most popular wool garment in Iceland is the Lopapeysa, the classic sweater with intricate and unique patterns around the yoke. An infinite range of classic lopapeysur can be found at the Icelandic Handknitting Association, while Farmer’s Market boasts a fashion-forward
the lopi in question – is that it doesn’t burn. It may light up if you put it right in a flame, but it will selfextinguish once you take it out. Amazing!
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Must try dishes > Lamb & Flatbread > Arctic Charr & Blini > Icelandic Platter > The Lamb Burger > Skyr Eton Mess Cheesecake FJALLKONAN WELCOMES YOU! Fjallkonan is a lively restaurant & pub in the heart of Reykjavík offering a selection of Icelandic and international dishes from local ingredients. Casual and cosy atmosphere with a fun and festive vibe. Stop by for snacks & drinks, lunch or dinner. Icelandic Delicacies fjallkonan.rvk fjallkonanHafnarstræti 1–3 > Tel. +354 555 0950 > fjallkona.is
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IF YOU LIKE ROMANCE NOVELS AND SOAP OPERAS – START WITH LAXDÆLA SAGA Laxdæla is the thrilling story of bonds of friendship torn asunder for the love of a woman. The love triangle of the formerly inseparable friends Kjartan and Bolli, and the beautiful and clever Guðrún has orWilldestiny,wrenchingconsequencesfar-reachinginthisheart-storyofhonour,loveandbetrayal.Guðrúnfollowherheartherpride?Aretheyallmere pawns of fate? Will her efforts to overturn destiny prove fruitful… or fatal? THE SAGAS OF THE ICELANDERS
A GUIDE TO READING
The Sagas of the Icelanders, written in the 12th and 13th century and telling the stories of the early settlers of Iceland from the 10th century, are an amazing treasure trove of historical knowledge about the early years of settlement in Iceland. Better yet, they’re also impressive examples of literary excellence that still hold their own when it comes to enthralling storytelling. The sagas might be several centuries old and originate in a society with completely different values to our own, but the stories they tell are universal and timeless. Just like modern literature, they deal with love, loss, honour, adventure and everything in between. If you want to start reading the sagas but you’re just not sure where to begin, here’s our guide to reading the them. Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
IF YOU’RE INTO FANTASY – START WITH VÖLSUNGA SAGA Völsunga saga has it all, dragons, sleeping beauties, magical swords, revenge and a dash of incest. It’s basically Game of Thrones for the 13th century! It’s the story of the Völsungs, a dynasty of kings and heroes. The best-known
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Egill’s saga tells the story of the fascinating antihero Egill Skallagrímsson and his adventurous travels all over the north of Europe. A fierce fighter and clever poet with severe anger management issues, Egill’s saga weaves together the stories of the first time he killed a man (at the tender age of 7), his impending beheading thwarted by some seriously great poetry, and a drunken feast turned massacre (where our hero at one point cuts off a man’s head before vomiting down his neck), to name a few.
IF YOU LIKE ACTION MOVIES AND ADVENTURE STORIES – START WITH EGILL’S SAGA
If you aren’t completely sold yet, there’s also the story of Egill in his old age, plotting mischief involving his treasure. He wanted to throw his silver in the air at a parliament session, and sit back and watch people fighting over it. When those plans were thwarted, he decided to bury his treasure, creating the legend of Egill’s silver. All the sagas are available in English in
IF YOU’RE A FAN OF LEGAL DRAMAS AND GREEK TRAGEDIES – START WITH BRENNU-NJÁLL’S SAGA Njála, as this saga is affectionately known, is the most revered of all the sagas in Iceland and its main character, Gunnar of Hlíðarendi, is probably the most idealised hero in all Icelandic literature. Familial obligations, honour and, most importantly, love, throw him, his best friend Njáll and everyone they hold dear into a whirlwind of theft, lawsuits, murder and punishments. His fate is marked from the moment he lays eyes on the woman he loves, and not even Njáll’s sage advice can save him. As an added bonus, Gunnar’s wife, Hallgerður, happens to be arguably the best female character in all medieval literature.
Adventure Ground SkaftafellMýrdalsjökullSólheimajökull Adventure Ground ON THE SOUTH COAST An exciting selection of outdoor activities in the beautiful south coast of Iceland. With regular departures from two dedicated Base Camps, less than 10 minutes driving distance from each other, you can fill your day with adventure. All in one place From Reykjavík the Adventure Bus is the easiest way to an Needadventure.unforgettablearide? Book your adventure now AdventureGround.is or call us +354 587 9999 Adventure Ground Offered by: Mountain Guides & Arcanum
Reykjaví k´s Thermal Pools swimmingThermalpools steambathsSaunas,Hotjacuzziandtubs Admission Adults 1.100 isk. Children 175 isk. changetosubjectisPrice2022.AprilAdmission Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of health, relaxation and pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot tubs with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F) Free entry for children 0-5 years old and senior citizens aged 67 and over
Squat, muscular, and built to withstand the elements, the Icelandic horse is the embodiment of how Iceland likes to view itself: small but mighty. They’re very friendly
7 Things
First things first: It’s not a pony! Yes, Icelandic horses stand, on average, 140 cm to their withers. And, yes, that’s well within the parameters of a “pony” (read, anything shorter than 147 cm). But they’re horses, plain and simple, because, well, Icelanders say so.
The Icelandic horse has earned a reputation at home and abroad for being easy-going and friendly. Like well-trained dogs. Which is funny, considering how impolite some Icelanders can be – the language doesn’t even have a word for “please.” Their temperaments can be attributed to nature, since their genetics are so protected (more on that later), or nurture, since Icelanders tend to treat their beloved horses like members of the family. So their relaxed attitudes may just be a result of the horses’ relaxed lifestyles. They have a fancy walk
The Icelandic horse is good at a lot of different types of walking and can perform five gaits. The three common horse gaits are walk, trot, and canter, but the Icelandic horse can also pace and tölt. Tölt is a four-beat lateral gait that comes naturally to the Icelandic horse. It’s a sped-up version of walking but much more impressive as the horses lift their front legs up high, with only one hoof touching the ground at any time.
Tölt is a very useful gait for Iceland’s often uneven ground, providing a steady ride. It was presumably the gentlest on the riders’ backside back when horses were the main mode of transportation.Thatsaid,not all Icelandic horses can tölt, and those that can are usually trained to do it properly. to Know About the Icelandic Horse
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Book your horse riding tour on WhatsOn.is
So when you take a riding tour, be sure to ask for a horse that can tölt, so you get to experience a truly unique trait of the Icelandic horse. They’re guaranteed purebred
Following an unsatisfactory attempt to crossbreed Icelandic and oriental breeds, Iceland’s Viking age parliament moved to prevent the degradation of their horses’ genes by forbidding horse imports to Iceland as far back as the year 982. This is the kind of thing you can do when you live on an island. That means Iceland’s horses have been purebred for over 1000 years. As a result, there are also remarkably few livestock diseases in the country –and authorities keep it that way by even prohibiting riders bringing their own saddles or riding boots with them to Iceland. The Icelandic horse’s forefathers first arrived with Viking settlers from the British Isles, between 860 and 935 AD. While they’re known ancestors of Shetland, Highland and Connemara ponies, they also have some genetic similarities to the Mongolian horse, which arrived in Scandinavia through Russia. They can never come home again No, Icelandic horses don’t spend their days reading Thomas Wolfe; rather those same restrictions that prevent the import of other breeds from abroad also apply to any Icelandic horse that leaves the island. They can’t return to Iceland. As a result, Icelanders participating in international riding competitions never take their best horse along, since they will likely sell it before heading home. The crème de la crème of Icelandic horses are kept in Iceland to compete domestically or breed. They’re part of Iceland’s heritage Icelandic horses feature heavily throughout the country’s history books. In the Book of Settlement of Iceland, chieftain Sela-Þórir established his settlement at the place where his mare Skálm decided to rest. Meanwhile, in Hrafnkel’s Saga, Njál’s Saga, Grettir’s Saga, and others, horses play important roles in fights, as status symbols, and as plot devices. For example, when the epic hero Gunnar á Hlíðarenda falls to the ground when his horse trips, he looks at his beautiful country and decides to stay rather than be outlawed, which ultimately leads to his death.
Icelandic horses have the standard four legs, but it can look like eight when they’re zipping along at flying pace. You can ride one any time Possibly the best thing about the Icelandic horse from a visitor’s perspective is that you can ride one just about any time. There are riding centres all over the country offering riding tours so visitors can experience Iceland’s uniquely beautiful nature from the back of Iceland’s uniquely wonderful horses. Thanks to their aforementioned temperament and size, the Icelandic horse is ideal for inexperienced riders taking a shorter tour, and their smooth gaits make them comfortable for more experienced riders looking to spend a whole day in the saddle.
In Norse mythology, the most famous equine is, of course, Óðinn’s eight-legged steed Sleipnir.
GlAcIeR IcE CaVe & SnOwMoBiLe Experience a snowmobile tour from Gullfoss Café to our new Glacier Ice Cave in Langjökull. Come with us inside the Glacier www.mountaineers.is ice@mountaineers.is +354 580 9900 Daily departures: 10:00, 12:00 and 14:00
Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is REYKJAVÍK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 29TH OF SEPTEMBER TO THE 9TH OF OCTOBER. 40 WHAT’S ON
Descend 120 meters into a volcano that erupted 4.000 years ago One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die. - CNNThe world feels a little more remarkable having seen the inside of its machinery. - Financial TimesBook your adventure at InsideTheVolcano.com
Pu n Rescue Centre & Aquarium Visitor Centre Open Daily, including Pu n Rescue Centre & Aquarium Select Bay Boat Trips to see the World’s first Beluga Whale Sanctuary Little White Little Grey School & Group Rates available, contact us now for details NEW! OnlineBook & Save! Aegisgata 2, Vestmannaeyjar 900 +354 620 2724 Tour our visitor centre to hear the fascinating story of Little White & Little Grey, our famous resident Beluga Whales! See the centre’s local species aquarium and heart-warming pu n rescue centre before taking a trip out to the bay to see the whales. belugasanctuary.sealifetrust.org
The Settlement Exhibition Reykjavík 871±2 is another family favourite. Built around the remains of a Viking longhouse excavated smackdab in the middle of Reykjavík, the museum tells the story of Reyjavík’s settlement (in the year 871, give or take Reykjavík is an amazing place to travel with kids at any time of year. It’s bursting with colourful houses, squares and parkettes, and interactive museums that encourage young (and old) imaginations to flourish. Here are a few of our favourite things to do with kids in Reykjavík.
7 FUN THINGS
Soak up some culture We’re of the opinion that you’re never too young for museums. Reykjavík has a lot to choose from, but those that we’ve found to be most kid-approved have an interactive element or two.
The Maritime Museum will teach the whole family about Iceland’s fishing tradition from the olden days up to modern times, while allowing kids to dress up like fishermen, go on a scavenger hunt through the exhibit, and try their hand stacking crates of fish with a forklift.
Meet the ducks Reykjavík’s central pond, Tjörnin, is home to a healthy population of ducks, geese and swans, in part thanks to its proximity to Vatnsmýri, a protected wetland and bird sanctuary, to the south. A stroll around the pond is a great way to spot the pairs of ducks floating around and doing theirFeedingthing. bread to the ducks is frowned upon – and not allowed at all over the summer when ducklings arrive – but if you happen to have frozen peas or birdseed in your pocket, feel free to toss that for your new beaked buddies. Expect to see mallards, gadwall, greater scaup, tufted ducks and teal, plus greylag geese and TO DO WITH KIDS IN REYKJAVÍK
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a couple years) with interactive screens to learn more about the rocky remains. There’s also a room where kids can dress as Viking settlers and play old games. Also great for families travelling with younger members are the Árbær Open Air Museum, with its turf houses and olden-day charm, and the National Museum of Iceland, which has a room for families to enjoy.
For an activity that your kids will be ooh-ing and ahh-in over long after you’ve departed Iceland, take them inside a glacier. A tour atop Langjökull glacier and into a man-made tunnel dug into it a few years back is a suitable adventure for the whole family.
If you’re spending a day or two exploring Reykjavík’s museums and swimming pools, consider buying the Reykjavík City Card. Available for 24hr, 48hr, and 72hr periods for kids and adults, it gives you access to museums, swimming pools, public transport, and more at one low price.
Those travelling with adventurous kids 6-years or older are also able to take a tour of the natural ice cave in Katlajökull glacial tongue, part of the glacier covering the mighty Katla volcano.
A number of whale-watching tours depart from Reykjavík’s old harbour year-round, taking you out on Faxaflói Bay or a chance to spot humpback whales, minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbourThere’sporpoises.arealthrill in the hunt, and the excitement onboard goes through the roof at the sight of a humpback’s mighty fluke slapping the water. Go later in the spring or during the summer to also see puffins, which are not the most graceful of birds –kids and adults will get a laugh as they crash-land on the water’s surface.
Kids that don’t have the patience (or the stomach) for a three-hour tour might opt for a visit to Whales of Iceland, where they can come face to face with the true scale of the gentle giants of the sea, learn about whales and play on the orca-themed climbing structure.
Don’t feel like schlepping to a real glacier? Perlan has brought the ice cave experience to Reykjavík. Just catch a shuttle to the glass-domed building on Öskjuhlíð to visit Perlan’s Ice Cave and Glacier Exploratorium, the world’s first indoor ice cave. There’s also an ice cream parlour and cafe at Perlan, which you definitely won’t find atop a real glacier.
Visit Laugardalur If it’s a nice day to spend outdoors, there are few better places to be than in Reykjavík’s Laugardalur neighbourhood. Take the kids to the Reykjavík Family Park and Zoo to meet Icelandic farm animals, plus foxes, seals and reindeer. Let them run wild and jump on the air trampoline in the park’s expansive play area, and then wind down with a stroll through Reykjavík’s Botanic Garden. It’ll be a day well spent just outside the city centre.
Hit the high seas Introduce your kids to whales while in Iceland.
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
Go for a dip Iceland’s thermal pools are good for swimming laps and lounging around in, but they’re also tons of fun for kids. Many locations have kids pools, with fountains and slides for the littlest ones, and bigger kids will get a thrill out of the bigger slides with their twists and turns.
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swans. There’s also a sign on the north end of the pond (by City Hall) with descriptions of some birds you might spot in the area.
Just remember: shower with soap before suiting up and jumping in. Ride a horse Even if you’re not a family of avid equestrians, you can enjoy a day on horseback in Iceland. Icelandic horses are known for their calm and friendly nature, making them perfect for inexperienced adults or children to ride – plus they’re shorter than horses you find in other parts of the world, so climbing into the saddle is less intimidating an experience. Always check the minimum age requirements before booking a riding tour, but some will welcome kids as young as 7-years old. It’ll be an unforgettable experience for kids of all ages.
Go inside a glacier
Do you want to have a whale of a time?
The waters around Iceland are the natural habitat of these gentle giants, so this is the perfect place to spot them. Baleen whales are a migratory species, and most travel long distances to tropical waters in winter and back to polar regions in summer. The best season for whale watching in Iceland is, therefore, between April and October. Going on a whale watching tour and actively searching for whales is an exciting and unique experience! Whale watching in the Capital Area
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You don’t have to travel far to go on a whale safari, as Reykjavík offers good options for whale watching. Different whale watching companies have regular departures from the Old Harbour area.
White-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises are seen year-round in Faxaflói bay, a large bay next to Reykjavík, stretching from Reykjanes to Snæfellsnes. In the summertime, there are regular sightings of humpback whales and minke whales.
You can choose to go on a bigger boat with a refreshment bar, or on a small RIB. The bigger boats have snug inside areas that offer shelter from bad weather, but the small boats have the advantage that you can get very close to oceanic wildlife. At the ticket offices, you can ask for complimentary
BEST WATCHINGWHALE SPOTS AROUND ICELAND
Whales of Iceland exhibition Whales of Iceland is an exhibition in the Grandi area of Reykjavík. It showcases 23 man-made life-size models of whale species that occur in Icelandic waters, like a 25m long blue whale and a full-size sperm whale. It offers a great opportunity to see the actual sizes of these whales (they are even bigger than you think!) and to learn interesting facts about each whale at the same time by reading plaques and watching videos. Educational and fun!
Combo tours – whales and puffins
Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is 47 ON motion sickness pills, but don’t worry, tours are cancelled if the waves are too high.
You can also see whales outside of the Capital Area. In wintertime, the fishing town Grundarfjörður is where it’s all at. The bay is filled with herring feeding on phytoplankton. Now, seeing breaching herring is probably not the reason why you travelled to Iceland. However, this herring aggregation attracts all kinds of cetaceans, like dolphins, porpoises, and most importantly, killer whales! Can you think of anything more spectacular than seeing a pack of killer whales swim by? There are also excellent whale watching opportunities in North Iceland. The town Húsavík is also known as the whale watching capital of Iceland, because of the many whales in its bay, Skjálfandi bay. Humpback whales, blue whales, minke whales, pilot whales, and sperm whales are often sighted. Because of the deep waters in the bay, there is also a higher chance of seeing rare species like the basking shark, the northern bottlenose whale, and the beluga!
Minke whale: a small baleen whale measuring 7m to 8m in length, weighing between 5 to 10 tonnes. It’s black and grey, has a dorsal fin, and will live for 30 to 50 years. It’s not likely to breach, so look for its back and dorsal fin during a tour. Also called “stinky minkes” because they smell of rotten fish.
White-beaked dolphin: the most common dolphin in Icelandic waters. It is 2.5m to 3m in length and weighs up to 350kg. They are often spotted in big groups, sometimes hundreds together! They love playing, jumping out of the water, and splashing about. Harbour porpoise: the smallest cetacean around Iceland. They are only 1.5m to 2m in length and weigh 55kg to 70kg. They are usually quite shy but sometimes jump out of the water and play with the whale watching boats. Contact info@whatson.is or stop by the What’s On Information Office on Laugavegur for more information.
Whale watching outside the Capital Area
COMMON SIGHTS
WHAT’S
In summer, puffin colonies are found all around Iceland. The first small flocks arrive in April, and the last ones leave in September, but the best months to see puffins are between May and August. Most whale watching companies offer whale and puffin combination tours. For puffin spotting, it’s best to be on a small boat and to bring binoculars. Puffins are tiny, and the closer you can get to them, the better the experience will be! These puffin tours are possible from Reykjavík. Just off the coast of the city, puffins breed each year on three small islands. Next to puffins and whales, common sights during these tours include arctic terns and the great skua.
Humpback whale: a large baleen whale measuring 12m to 16m in length and weighing about 36 tonnes. It has long pectoral fins, a stubby dorsal fin, and a knobbly head. They are known for breaching, their high spouts of water, and for showing off their flukes as they go for deeper dives!
The volcano is an hour’s drive from the capital and easily accessible to anyone that can handle a few hours hiking. Below is everything you need to know to get there and back safely.
Parking 1 on the left adjoins the main trailhead, with overflow parking farther on.
The Meradalir volcano is about 50 km south east of Reykjavík as the crow flies. About 10 km outside the village of Grindavik, there are two car parks built for the crowds visiting last year’s eruption in the adjoining valley. They are impossible to miss.
First, a disclaimer, as we go to print the Volcano is still erupting, but as we go to press the eruption has slowed. Eruptions are predictably unpredictable, that said even if it is on pause or stopped by the time you read this, the new landscape around the volcano will still be awesome, amazing and unbelievable.
Another, more scenic route is possible by taking the 42 as you leave Reykjavík. This route will bring you alongside Kleifavatn lake and through Krýsuvík geothermal fields. You can, canny driver, combine both routes so you make a circular route and make the most of the journey. If you want to be prepared for your trip, contact the What’s On office on Laugavegur and get some advice!
48 WHAT’S ON VISITING THE VOLCANO
Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is Awesome! Amazing! Unbelievable! Superlatives are overused and lose their meaning but the volcano at Meradalir, really is all these things.
By Private car
Helicopter
Day time or Night time?
Light Aircraft The flight leaves from the private plane terminal at Reykjavik domestic airport, literally 5 minutes away from the Reykjavik downtown area.
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The total duration of the tour is approx. 45 minutes. The helicopter does not landing at the eruption.
There are a range of bus and Private tours that will pick you up at an arranged spot or at your accommodation and may include a private guide to the volcano. (You’ll find links on our website at whatson.is)
How tough is the hike?
The first section from Parking 1 is along the valley floor over a level earth path. After a gentle incline you meet one of the edges of the lava field made by last years eruption. To the left a switchback climb takes you to another level section before another steep climb across up to a plateau, which is the longest section. About 2 km of this section has been cleared, but the second half is rocky and uneven and every step requires some care. To your right, last year’s crater, still smoking, rises up from its vast lava field. After another descent you again pass the edge of last year’s lava. There is a temptation here to set out across last year’s lava field. Don’t. The lava is brittle, and still cooling, you’ll likely see smoke rising from sections. Bring water. How long will it take? It takes about two hours each way, more if you take breaks and definitely more if its nighttime. How long you spend there is of course, up to you, but be aware there are copious toxic gasses escaping along with the lava, don’t spend too long by the advancing lava and be sure to stay upwind. You may want to bring a gas mask rated for sulphur dioxide. If you are meeting a bus to return to the city, or have a flight to catch, give yourself lots of time, you do not want to be rushing or trying to overtake people. Who can go? Anyone over twelve years of age in reasonable fitness. It’s not recommended to bring dogs, the gasses can gather low along the ground and in depressions. When to go? The routes may be closed in bad weather conditions. Consult the weather forecast before setting out. The route has been closed on several occasions because of poor weather conditions so far. Are there shops, refreshments, facilities nearby? There is a fish and chip food truck in parking 1. There are, at the time of writing no bathroom facilities. The nearest town is Grindavik. The gas station stocks everything the heart could desire snack-wise.
By Bus and Tour
Sunset in September is around 9 to 9:30 pm, with sunrise just around 6 am. The volcano is of course at it’s most impressive at night. As mentioned above, the hike has some steep and uneven sections, so give yourself twice the amount of time to return if walking in the dark. You will, of course need to bring a torch, preferably a headlamp, and poles are highly recommended for night hiking.
It’s not exactly a walk in the park, but if you are in any kind of shape, it will not pose too much of a challenge. The route is over rocky, uneven terrain.
There are several long steep sections where every step requires care. The path is being improved all the time by volunteers, clearing rocky sections with small earthmoving equipment, but decent footwear remains crucial. Hiking poles come in very handy on the steeper sections. The trail is crowded and narrow in parts, requiring opposing lines of traffic to pass at points that are slippy when wet. It takes time to cover this type of terrain, and rain will slow everything down. Do allow lots of time, at least two hours each way, and more in dark or wet conditions.
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7 Check out the article Reykjavik Sights to See on pages 40-41 for more information about the places numbered here. 6 4 9 3 1 8 2 i1 2 3 5 6 8 119 BSÍ i 14
REYKJAVÍKCITYMAP 10 What’s On Tourist Information and Booking Centre Locations 10 12 Tour Pick UpsMain areas Sights i 13 5
Reykjavík sightseeing has something for everyone! The city is filled with things to do, places to go, and stuff to see, but some things are just a little bit more important than others.
Check out the map in the centre of the magazine to find the exact location of these Reykjavík sights. sights to see
Reykjavík
2 PERLAN Standing at 25m, Perlan is one of Reykjavík’s most striking buildings. Built on top of the city’s hot water tanks, Perlan is known for its unique architecture. Inside Perlan, you can visit Wonders of Iceland, an exhibition spread over multiple levels. A visit to a real ice cave, planetarium shows, exhibitions on Iceland’s history, glaciers, volcanoes, and water, and a spectacular 360° viewing platform are all included in a ticket. On the top floor, there is a restaurant and coffeehouse for guests in need of refreshment. Surrounding Perlan is the Öskjuhlíð area, one of the many green spaces in Reykjavík, perfect for a walk on a sunny day.
3 TJÖRNIN Tjörnin (The Pond) is the heart of the city centre and offers some of the most amazing views in Reykjavík. There is no better place in the city to enjoy a beautiful sunset, and you can watch or feed a huge variety of birdlife that calls the lake home while you’re at it. When the lake freezes over in winter, geothermal water is pumped in to defrost an area for the birds and feeding them is a popular family pastime all year round. Those who can handle the cold take to the lake on ice skates.
4 AUSTURVÖLLUR When the sun is shining, Austurvöllur is the place to be. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants, this public square is a popular spot for locals to dine outside, soak up some sunshine or recline on the grass with picnics. In fact, whatever the season, Austurvöllur is the place to be. It’s used for celebrations on holidays, and in December, the city’s biggest Christmas tree is located there. Due to its proximity to The House of Parliament, Austurvöllur is also a popular gathering spot for political protesters. At the centre of it all stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the renowned figure who is credited with leading Iceland to independence. Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights
1 HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It’s the largest church and the 6th tallest architectural structure in Iceland. The church tower offers a fantastic view of the city. It’s named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Petursson, author of the Passion Hymns. The architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed it to resemble the basalt lava column flows of Iceland’s landscape. Construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1984.
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The whole 28,000m2 of Harpa stand at the edge of Reykjavík Harbour. It houses Iceland’s biggest concert hall, suitable for a broad range of concerts and cultural events, a conference centre with meeting facilities and in-house catering, as well as a couple of fine restaurants. Harpa also hosts promotions, plays, and public events. Harpa was designed by a Danish firm in cooperation with Ólafur Elíasson, an Icelandic artist, and opened to the public in 2011.
7 THE OLD HARBOUR
Though it’s the oldest harbour in its original form, Reykjavík’s Old Harbour is no longer the busiest for freight. Instead, it’s an oft-visited area where you’ll find a community of shops, galleries, electric bike and scooter rentals, and tour operators. You will also find numerous whale watching companies willing to take you out to sea on unforgettable excursions. The area is filled with excellent restaurants (pizza, seafood, burgers, etc.) and cafés. The atmosphere at the old harbour is friendly, the air is fresh and salty, and there are plenty of interesting activities to check out.
A beautiful sculpture of a Viking ship located by the ocean on a small peninsula by Sæbraut, close to downtown Reykjavík. The sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason symbolises the Viking past of the Icelanders and is an ode to the sun. It serves as a reminder of our history and heritage when the first Viking settlers came sailing to Iceland.
9 HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT Founded in 950 AD, Iceland’s Parliament, Alþingi, is the oldest extant parliament in the world! For centuries, the Parliament gathered in the open air (on the aptly named Þingvellir, Parliament Fields), but in recent years, the members of Parliament have met in Reykjavík. The House of Parliament is a modest classical building of hewn Icelandic dolerite, and it gives Austurvöllur square a dignified look. The Parliament garden behind the building is small but lovely in the summertime.
10 LAUGARDALSLAUG Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. Icelanders’ favourite pastime is going swimming.
Laugardalslaug is the city’s largest pool with extensive facilities, located in Laugardalur valley. Its facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, an outdoor children’s pool and a paddling pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs, a steam bath, gym, and a mini-golf course. There really is no better place to be on a sunny day or a cold one for that matter. Right outside, you will find a hot dog stand where you can buy traditional Icelandic hot dogs.
THE SUN VOYAGER
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5 HLEMMUR The Hlemmur bus terminal has been a city centre fixture for decades – although the reason for its popularity has changed. It was transformed into a food hall a couple years back, it’s difficult to imagine Hlemmur square without it. The food hall attracts a fun crowd, and the place is booming! With Neapolitan pizza, LA-style tacos, gourmet burgers, gelatos, and specialities from the Michelin Bib Gourmandawarded Skál, there’s something for everybody!
Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights
The Sun Voyager looks its best when the sun is setting, at whatever time that may be. The unforgettable view of the sculpture with a backdrop of the ocean and Mt. Esja is every photographer’s dream.
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InSveinsson.2001,archaeological remains of a settlement-era hall were excavated, which was inhabited from 930-1000. North of the hall, two pieces of a turf wall were found, which were built before 871. These findings are the oldest relics of human habitation found in Reykjavík. An innovative, interactive exhibition gives an impression of what life was like in those times. Objects from the age of settlement found in central Reykjavík and on Viðey island are also on display. The nation’s most precious treasures are kept and displayed at the National Museum of Iceland. The museum was established in 1863, and it gives an insight into Iceland’s cultural heritage from the time of the settlement up to modern times. There’s a permanent exhibition of Icelandic history and culture from the settlement era on, as well as temporary exhibitions highlighting specific eras or aspects of Iceland’s cultural heritage. ON Reykjavík’s history reaches more than a thousand years into the past, and the city has a rich cultural heritage. What better way to learn more about Icelandic culture than visiting the city centre’s museums?
Museums in ReykjavíkDowntownCheck out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights
THE REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM
Hafnarhús serves as the museum’s institute of contemporary art, where new developments in art are explored through rotating exhibitions. An exhibition of paintings by well-known pop artist Erró is a permanent feature. Kjarvalsstaðir is devoted to one of Iceland’s most influential painters, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, and Ásmundarsafn is the former home and workshop of sculptor Ásmundur
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THE REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY
The Reykjavík Art Museum has three locations: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, and Ásmundarsafn.
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The Museum of Photography’s main objective is to present both historical and contemporary photography in an artistic, social, and cultural context, as well as to nurture public and scholarly interest in photography. The collection’s themes range from family photographs to photos from portrait studios, industrial and advertising photography, press photography, landscape
1 2 3 4 5 656 7 7 Check out our centerfold map for the locations of these sights
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BEST POOL TO CHAT WITH LOCALS
BEST POOL FOR SERIOUS SWIMMERS
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Laugardalslaug is Reykjavík’s biggest pool and the best one for a long swim. It’s an Olympic-size swimming pool, used for recreational swimming,
SWIMMING!Laugardalslaug
Whether you visit a thermal pool in Reykjavík, a luxurious spa, or a natural pool in the countryside, swimming in Iceland is a unique experience. Nothing beats relaxing in warm water while breathing in fresh cold air.
BEST KID-FRIENDLY POOL
Swimming pools are one of the most kid-friendly activities you can find in Iceland, so the short answer is – all of them! To be more specific, the centrally located Sundhöll has a great outdoor area, and so does Vesturbæjarlaug, but Árbæjarlaug is a hidden gem, a perfect stop if you’re going out of town anyway, and pairs well with a visit to the Árbær
GO
Locals love going to the pool, and chilling in a hot tub is a good way to connect to Icelanders. Often, Icelanders meet in the pool and use this time to chat and catch up on the latest developments. Good options for hanging out with locals are Vesturbæjarlaug, Seltjarnarneslaug, and
Árbæjarlaug (Tel. 411 4200)
Grafarvogslaug (Tel. 510 4600) Mon
Sun:
BEST LUXURY SPA In need of pampering? You’ve heard of the Blue Lagoon with its milky blue waters and mud masks, but did you know a brand-new spa opened just 10 minutes by car from downtown Reykjavík? Located at the edge of the bay of Kópavogur, the pool offers amazing coastal views. Sky Lagoon boasts a modern approach to traditional Icelandic swimming culture, making it the perfect spot to relax, enjoy a drink, socialise, and soak in the sun.
• Sat
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• Sat
• Sat - Sun: 8-22 Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
58 exercise, and competitions. The big indoor pool is also used for training and competitions. Laugardalslaug also offers plenty of hot tubs, cold tubs, and steam baths for relaxation after a healthy swim, and to top it off, a fitness centre and spa are located next to the pool.
• Fri: 11-19 • Sat
• Sat - Sun: 9-22 Laugardalslaug (Tel. 411 5100) Mon
SWIMMING POOLS
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IN SUMERREYKJAVÍKOPENINGHOURS
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BEST POOL FOR A DAY TRIP Basically every town in Iceland has its own pool. Almost all of them are beautifully located, next to mountains and overlooking fjords and the ocean. If you plan to make a day tour out of your pool visit, head to the Westman Islands and visit Sundhöllin Vestmannaeyjar on Heimaey island. The ferry ride out to the island is an adventure, and there is a great indoor pool, a large outside pool with hot tubs, and cool waterslides.
More info on www.sundlaugar.is
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Klébergslaug (Tel. 566 6879) Mon
Mon - 6:30-22 - 9-22 - 6:30-22 - 6:30-22 - 6:30-22 - 9-22 - Fri: 6:30-22 - 9-22 - 11-22- 6:30-22
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Sun: 11-18 Sundhöllin (Tel. 411 5350) Mon
Breiðholtslaug (Tel. 557 5547) Mon
Vesturbæjarlaug
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• Fri - Sun: 8-22 Vesturbæjarlaug (Tel. 411 4200) Mon
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Game of Thrones (2011-2019) Some of Iceland’s most recognizable wonders and locations made their way into the compelling fantasy drama. Þingvellir national park made for the perfect setting for the entrance to the Eyrie. Kirkjufell mountain is featured in several scenes.
Iceland’s otherworldly nature and landscape provide the perfect backdrop for historical, science fiction, fantasy, and even action films. Below are some of our favourite movies and TV series filmed at some of the most fascinating locations here in Iceland. See if you can spot some of these familiar settings as you venture out into the countryside.
When the Night’s Watch ventured beyond the Wall, they were often trekking across the magical Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which sits next to the Eyjafjallajökull glacier in South Iceland. Later in the series, the Wildlings lead an attack on northern farmers, which also takes place in the south of Iceland in the beautiful Þjórsárdalur valley.
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FILMED IN ICELAND
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The Northman (2022) Robert Eggers’s bone-crushing Viking tragedy is as visually stimulating as it is violent. And while the majority of the action was filmed in Ireland—even while supposedly taking place in Iceland—we get a glimpse of the breathtaking Svínafellsjökull glacier, which sits on the edge of the massive Vatnajökull glacier in South East Iceland. Svínafellsjökull should look familiar—it was also featured in Batman Begins (2005) and Interstellar (2014).
Lost in Space (2018-2021) Reviving a beloved science fiction series from the 1960s is risky, but with the help of CGI and Iceland’s natural beauty, this revitalized Lost in Space developed a strong following and received high praise from critics. In the second season, you can spot the beloved Skógafoss waterfall and Dyrhólaey island, both of which can be found in — you guessed it — South Iceland. But the southern coast is not the only landscape that feels like you’re on another planet. American astronauts came to Mývatn lake and the surrounding area in the north during the 1960s to prepare for landing on the moon!
Fast 8 (2017) Family is very important for Icelanders. So it’s only natural that Hollywood’s favourite dysfunctional family came to the island to film its eighth instalment. Although speeding muscle cars do not typically bring Iceland’s sublime nature to mind, the crew decided to try their hand at driving across a frozen lake—Mývatn lake to be exact. The filming, however, came at a heavy cost. A strong wind blew a fake iceberg from the set, fatally injuring a horse from a nearby farm.
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Rogue One: A Star Wars Story (2016) A galaxy far far away—or a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Reykjavík? Arguably the best Star Wars movie in the franchise’s turbulent history, Rogue One follows the life of Jyn as she joins the resistance against the Empire while learning about her mysterious past. Flashbacks of her childhood show a dramatic landscape, which can be found once again in the south of Iceland. The black sand beaches will look familiar to anyone who has visited Vík and the neighbouring Reynisfjara beach. But proceed with caution. The danger in visiting this stunning locale is not Stormtroopers but rather the sneaker waves that have made the beach a dangerous stop for tourists.
Die Another Day (2002) Vin Diesel was not the first Hollywood actor to drive across a frozen lake in Iceland. In Pierce Brosnan’s final role as James Bond, the actor drove one of the famous Bond cars across an icy landscape. The scene was shot at Jökulsárlón lagoon—one of Iceland’s most stunning places to visit. But James Bond shouldn’t be the reason for a visit to the lagoon. Its floating icebergs, deep blue water, and the backdrop of Vatnajökull glacier are enough to warrant a trip to the South East. Journey to the Center of the Earth (2008)
This Will Farrell movie gave many Icelanders a chuckle when it aired on Netflix during the pandemic. While the Icelandic accent of Pierce Brosnan—our second Pierce Brosnan sighting!—may not have impressed the locals, the appeal to their love of Eurovision certainly did. Much of the film takes place in Húsavík, a charming fishing town in the north of Iceland. Not long after the song “Ja Ja Ding Dong!” delighted viewers, a bar opened up in Húsavík under the same name!
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While Jules Verne might be rolling in his grave at this adaptation, the filmmakers nevertheless stayed true to Verne’s depiction of Snæfellsjökull glacier as the entrance to the centre of the earth. Former teenage heartthrob Brendan Fraser was filmed on location on Snæfellsnes peninsula—which is reason enough to visit! But the glacier is also one of the most beautiful sites in Iceland, even visible from Reykjavík on a sunny day.
Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga (2020)
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MERADALIR Everything you need to know about Iceland’s latest eruption 64 WHAT’S ON Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
There are, however lots of nasty gasses around Meradalir. On a still day, these can lay low to the
WHO? Is a volcano a who? If so, this one goes by the name Meradalir, meaning the valleys of the Mare, as in female horse, following the equestrian theme of last years eruption was at Geldingadalur of Gelding valley (a gelding being a castrated horse).
WHAT? The eruption at Meradalir is a fissure eruption, similar to last year. So far, it seems to be developing along the same lines. The fissure opened as a 100-meter-long tear in the earth, spewing lava from multiple points. In the weeks since, these fountains have consolidated into a single vent surrounded by a shield or cone. The cone is currently 20 meters high, and despite slowing as we go to press, it’s impossible to predict what will happen next. Last year’s eruption in the neighbouring valley also slowed for a period before coming back stronger than ever. Only time will tell. So far the eruption at Meradalir has been what Iclanders call a tourist-class eruption. It looked for a minute as though the lava was about to breach the valley wall and make a run for the nearby coastal road. However, the latest developments suggest the lava is changing consistency, becoming more viscous and changing direction, so fingers crossed. Again, only time will tell. Effusive or fissure eruptions like the one at Meradalir are characterised by thick and sticky lava. Unlike the explosive eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, which sent ash and gasses high into the stratosphere creating aviation chaos, Meradalir is not disrupting flights.
ground, one of the reasons the routes are closed to children under 12. So do be cautious, don’t spend too long by the lava’s edge and follow the advice of the safety wardens. When you hear their detectors beep it’s time to move!
65 WHAT’S ON MarinaHotel Geirsgata
WHERE? About 50 km south of Reykjavik. The nearest town to the eruption is Grindavík. The eruption occurred at the edge of a lava field created by last year’s eruption in the neighbouring valley. This eruption is a little harder to get to, requiring a 9 km hike from the impromptu car park set up to cater for last year’s crowds. The hike is over uneven and often steep terrain, but improvements are being made to the trail all the time. A word of caution: visitors have been observed taking walking over last year’s lava fields. This is highly dangerous. The lava is very brittle and still cooling in pockets. Recent earthquakes - and there have been literally tens of thousands preceding the eruption - have created a highly unstable terrain. WHEN The first signs of the Meradalir eruption were at eruption, which lasted 181 days, was the first on the Reykanes peninsula in over 700 years. As events unfold, it may be that we look back and consider this and last year’s eruption, which ended in September, as parts of a new cycle of activity.
WHY? Iceland’s location on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, astride both the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, mean that the island is being pulled apart at a speed of about 2 cm per year (about half the speed your fingernails). It is this that is largely responsible for Iceland’s ongoing volcanic activity.
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Brand Wine & Grill
Zenato - La Trattoria
From the owners of the ever popular Fish Market and Grill Market, Zenato offers Italian food and wines. Fuego All taco lovers in town are familiar with Fuego in Hlemmur Food Hall. Fuego is expanding its tasty tacos to Hafnatorg Gallery. Kualua Poke Bar Kualua is a Brand-new Poke Bar, as the name suggests! Get ready to try their poke bowls.
Black Dragon Reykjavik Black Dragoon Reykjavik mixes French and Asian cuisine with an Icelandic touch.
Plantan Kaffihús (Njálsgata 54) Plantan kaffihús is a small café located just a couple of steps from the downtown swimming pool, Sundhöllin. This coffeehouse is perfect if you want to spend some time alone, with your friends or with your family. It focuses on plant-based food and ethically sourced quality coffee. It also offers a small menu with hot food along with a variety of pastry options and sandwiches.
Since the beginning of August, Hafnatorg Gallery has been slowly opening a variety of new restaurants and shops. Now, several new restaurants opened their doors serving a wide variety of cuisine styles that will suit everybody’s tastes. Pizzas, tacos, ice creams, you name it, you can find it here in the newest and most modern part of Reykjavík.
New in Town
Hafnartorg Gallery Plantan Kaffihús Find more articles like this at www.whatson.is
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Using the Japanese Robata grill, Brand Wine & Grill is the right place to go if you like the taste of charcoal in your food. To top it up, they also offer a variety of quality wines and cocktails.
NEÓ Pizza Flatey Pizza Napoletana introduces NEÓ Pizza offering New York pizza style and several draft beer options.
Hafnartorg Gallery - Food Hall (Geirsgata 17)
EVENTSNOTABLE
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September’s program at Harpa concert hall kick off with ‘Favourite Classics.’ As we go to print the program is TBA, but it is sure to feature some favourite classics.
ICELAND SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA (SEVERAL SHOWS)
After a two-year hiatus, Októberfest, the largest student music festival in Iceland is back, in September! ( So like, who ever said Októberfest had to happen in like, October?). There are busloads of up-and-coming Icelandic bands, Gaggles of DJs, a forecourt of food trucks, oodles of beer and masses of students, you know the rest.
Trifonov plays Beethoven on the 8th. The Russian pianist and 2018 Grammy award winner has been described as “arguably today’s leading classical virtuoso”. Trifonov will also perform a solo concert on the 10th, also at Harpa. Other highlights of the ISO’s September program includes the return of Iceland’s very own Disella Larusdottir, 2022 Grammy winner and Met veteran, Disella will perform from a light classical repertoire including Charles Ives, Mozart, and Leonard Bernstein on the 15th.
1. - 4. SEPTEMBER 2022 2022 marks the 20th anniversary of the Ljosanott (the night lights) festival. Held in Reykjanesbær a stone’s throw from Keflavík Airport. The town is the historic and spiritual home of Icelandic rock, (due perhaps it’s vicinity to the US base’s in the post WW2 war period). Four days of art exhibitions, street fairs, fencing contests and backyard gigs culminate in an open air concert and fireworks display on Saturday the 3rd of September.
LJÓSANÓTT - THE NIGHT OF LIGHTS FESTIVAL REYKJANESBÆR
OKTOBER FEST MUSIC SEPTEMBER 1-3
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GAMLA BÍÓ - 16. SEPTEMBER
RIFF - REYKJAVÍK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
RIFF, Reykjavík International Film Festival, offers a wide selection of new and independent cinema. Screening around 200 films from over 40 countries over ten days with special guests and events for film lovers and filmmakers. As ever, there’s an emphasis on highlighting the work of young and emerging filmmakers and focused programs. This year the spotlight turns to Spanish cinema and Inuit horror films.
SEP. 29 - OCT. 9
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EVENTS
MAMMOTH & KÆLAN MIKLA WITH SPECIAL GUESTS
EVENTSNOTABLE
Beloved Reykjavík rockers Mammút and Kælan Mikla play a one-off co-headline show at Gamla Bíó on September 16th 2022. Critically acclaimed MAMMÚT, a household name on the Icelandic music scene are joined by Kælan Mikla, much beloved by fans of dark and dreary genre. Both acts share a sense for the dramatic and theatrical and a memorable sonic deep dive is guaranteed.
ROKK Í REYKJAVÍK KAPLAKRIKI - 17. SEPTEMBER Heralded as the biggest rock punk concert in Icelandic history, Rokk í Reykjavík, brings together the elder statesman of Icelandic Punk rock with new and emerging talent. The festivals takes it’s title from Friðrik Þórs Friðriksson’s 1982 documentary film, which documented the excitement and energy of Iceland’s punk and new wave scene, clips are on YouTube if the spirit moves you. The concert is held in Kaplakriki stadium in Hafnarfjörður. Punk not dead! (It just smells that way).
SEVERAL LOCATIONS
REYKJAVIK ART ÁSMUNDARSAFNMUSEUM
Ásmundur Sveinsson and Unndór Egill Jónsson: Contemporary sculptor Unndór Egill Jónsson presents a new body of work framed as a response or conversation with the work and legacy of Ásmundur Sveinsson. The museum itself was designed and built as a studio and home by Ásmundur. All about light, the modernist concrete structure is (apparently) a mix of the Mediterranean and nordic styles, though that might take a minute. If you’ve not been, it’s a very cool space and well worth checking out. Unndór Egill’s practice mixes woodwork, furniture and kinetic timber machinery. It will be interesting to see how it fits with the singular vision of Ásmundur’s beautiful, peculiarly space.
EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
AURORA REYKJAVÍK
Aurora Reykjavík’s latest additions are virtual reality goggles featuring the world’s first 360° movie of aurora displays entirely shot in Iceland. If you can’t catch the northern lights yourself, this utterly realistic experience is definitely the next best option to witness the beauty of this truly amazing phenomenon.Capturing the northern lights with your own camera can be challenging, but at Aurora Reykjavík, you receive instruction by the experts: bring your camera and try the right settings at the Northern Lights Photo Simulator. In the exhibition, you will find an entertaining selfie booth – have fun looking all fabulous under the northern lights!
EVENTS
SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM A Mural without a Wall A poster and sculpture exhibition relating the story of Sigurjón Ólafsson’s monumental relief Stacking Saltfish, which was originally supposed to decorate the house of the Fish Industry in Reykjavík. In the end, the relief became a free-standing wall in the vicinity of the College of Navigation in Reykjavík. New research revealed severe deterioration in the relief, suggesting that previous repair-work was unsuccessful.
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Catch the Aurora Borealis All Year Round Unndór Egill Jónsson beauty of a northern lights display. However, those unpredictable, ever dancing lights don’t always show up on cue – and fade away during the summer months. So, it is with great joy that we welcome Aurora Reykjavík – The Northern Lights Centre, where the northern lights are always on display. Aurora Reykjavík’s pull and ace up its sleeve is its fantastic 4k timelapse film of the Aurora Borealis.
monkeys.is | Klapparstíg 28–30 | Hjartagarðinum
EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
HOME OF AN ARTIST A Window in Reykjavík –Ásgrímur Jónsson’s house
NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND Jewellery by Dieter Roth Dieter Roth (1930—1998) was a pioneer who respected no boundaries: a thinker, trailblazer, poet, musician, filmmaker and visual artist. A less well-known aspect of his career is that he also made an impression with his creation of innovative jewellery, starting in Iceland in the late 1950s. The first pieces of jewellery designed by Roth were made in collaboration with his wife, artist Sigríður Björnsdóttir, at the kitchen table in their home; but before long, they were offered better facilities in the atelier of goldsmith Halldór Sigurðsson at Skólavörðustígur 2 in central Reykjavik. Roth‘s jewellery, generally composed of screws, bolts and other mechanical parts, could be assembled in various different ways, and reconfigured. His jewellery-making was characterised by the same approach as his art: he made use of materials that were generally dismissed as waste or refuse, which he transformed. No two objects are alike; Dieter Roth was familiar with the qualities of the material and worked directly with it. In the 1960s, Roth embarked on a collaboration with Swiss goldsmith Hans Langenbacher; the two men had first met at the atelier of goldsmith Jón Sigmundsson in Reykjavík in 1958, and had been impressed by each other‘s methods, use of materials, and skill.
Margrét H. Blöndal: Ode to Join Margrét H. Blöndal’s exhibition Ode to Join comprises drawings made with oil and powdered pigments, plus three-dimensional pieces created directly onto the exhibition venue as a response to the space. Movement arises from partitions to be installed in the space, the placement of the works and the relationship between them. Ásgrímur Jónsson
The exhibition A Window in Reykjavík comprises a selection of works by Ásgrímur Jónsson. The common feature of these works is that they relate to the artist’s surroundings in Reykjavík. Ásgrímur Jónsson (1876–1958) is one of the pioneers in the history of Icelandic art; he was the first Icelandic painter to make a career in art. The view from the window of Vinaminni, where he first lived on his return to Iceland, became a favourite motif for him, with its vista of Reykjavík Harbour and Mt. Esja across the bay. Watercolour was an appropriate medium for capturing the quality of the light over the waters of Skerjafjörður and the houses on Laufásvegur. Ásgrímur’s life and oeuvre span a long period of Iceland’s history – a time when the old rural society was starting to decline and Reykjavík was growing from a town into a city. Many of Ásgrímur’s paintings from Reykjavík, painted in the first half of the 20th century, depict a peaceful along the ocean shore; yet they also show economic activity, such as workmen building roads as the new urban society evolves.
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THE MUSEUMNATIONALOFICELAND
Heads from Clouds - Jóhannes S. Kjarval’s portraits
The Only Constant is Change
Throughout his entire career, Kjarval created portraits, and this extensive exhibition features oil paintings of known people from all eras, watercolour portraits of Italian people from 1920, a selection of ink and india ink drawings from 1928-1930, sanguine portraits of friends and family, and lesser known portraits from the artist’s later years. Stitches and threads Stitches and Threads is an exhibition of works by contemporary Icelandic artists who embroider or make use of the needle and thread as a tool in their art. They either look to the past to work with the heritage of the craftsmanship and its tradition, or employ the needle as a tool in progressive experiments with other media. The exhibition includes new and recent works by a varied group of artists, both representatives of the younger generation and artists who have made their mark on the Icelandic art scene.
The Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland
KJARVALSSTAÐIRARTREYKJAVIKMUSEUM
Kristinn G. Harðarson
In keeping with the National Gallery’s remit as an archive, repository and collector of Icelandic Art, the Gallery’s latest show, Some New Works does exactly what it says on the tin, showcasing recent acquisitions alongside the museum’s extensive collection. The best place to get an overall snapshot of Iceland’s visual art history, the Gallery’s permanent collection contains works dating from the 16th century to the present day. It’s expanding collection, with newer works showcased here illustrate the Galleries commitment to it’s statutory role in collecting work reflecting movements in Icelandic and international art.
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Jóhannes S. Kjarval
Some New Works
The Only Constant is Change bears an element of familiarity as the artist revisits and combines components from former works in a new manner. The multifaceted piece conforms to its own inner operating system, on one hand, and the presence of guests, on the other, disguising the starting point of motion.
Ingunn Fjóla Ingþórsdóttir:
The National Museum of Iceland’s permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation – Heritage and History in Iceland, is intended to provide insight into the history of the Icelandic nation from the settlement to the present day. The aim is to cast light on the Icelanders’ past by placing the cultural heritage preserved by the National Museum in a historical context, guided by the question: what makes a nation? The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects dating from the Settlement Age to the present, as well as about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century.
The exhibition is conceived as a journey through time: it begins with the ship in which mediaeval settlers crossed the ocean to their new home, and it ends in a modern airport, the Icelanders’ gateway to the world.
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EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
Ingunn Fjóla Ingþórsdóttir’s installation
Árbær was an established farm well into the 20th century, and the museum opened there in 1957. Árbær is now an open-air museum with more than 20 buildings which form a town square, a village and a farm. Most of the buildings have been relocated from central Reykjavik.Árbær Open Air Museum tries to give a sense of the architecture and way of life and lifestyles of the past in Reykjavík and during summer visitors can see domestic animals. There are many exhibitions and events held at the Museum, which highlight specific periods in Reykjavik’s history. These include craft days, vintage car displays, Christmas exhibitions and much more. There is something for everyone at Árbær Open Air Museum. ancient craftmanship has since been forgotten to time, leaving numerous questions about the bloomery process unanswered. For a long time, scientists have attempted to answer questions about bloomery in Iceland. How was bog iron processed? How were bloomery furnaces constructed, isolated, and ignited? What quality of iron could be produced from Icelandic bog iron? The exhibition From mire to metal explores bloomery research in Iceland. Bloomery experiments were carried out at Eiríksstaðir, successfully smelting iron for the first time from Icelandic bogs in centuries Making of a Nation
76 EVENTS
In the shadow
Saga of Hofstaðir, Unearthing the Past in North Iceland At Hofstaðir, in the district of Lake Mývatn, north Iceland, extensive archaeological excavations have been carried out over the past three decades. The site includes remains from the Viking Age to the 20th century. A huge Viking-Age structure was excavated: a hall or longhouse where people gathered on social occasions, with other smaller buildings around it. The hall is one of the largest structures ever excavated in Iceland. In addition, a churchyard was excavated at Hofstaðir, which is one of the oldest churchyards unearthed in Iceland. Whole families were laid to rest in the cemetery, and their bones yield evidence about their lives. The face of one of the women buried at Hofstaðir has been reconstructed using DNA technology, and a drawing of her is included in the exhibition.
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Women pioneers of photography take centre stage in an exhibition in the National Museum’s photography room. The exhibition highlights ten women photographers in Denmark, Iceland, and the Faroe Islands in the latter half of the 19th century. The exhibition title has a double meaning. The women stood behind the camera and out of the spotlight, but also in the shadow of their male contemporaries. Sometimes, their work was even attributed to their husbands.
From mire to metal In the past, iron smelting from bog iron was performed in Iceland. The use of metallurgical furnaces called bloomeries were used to smelt iron throughout the Middle Ages. Thereafter the practice steadily declined until it was completely abandoned in the 17th or 18th century. The knowledge of this ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM
EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
+354nationalmuseum.is5302200@thjodminjasafn The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 102 Reykjavík Opening hours Daily Closed10-17onMondays 16/9-30/4 W E LCOME TO T H E NATION A L MU S EUM OF ICEL A ND
79 EVENTS Karólína the Weaver Karólína
THE EXHIBITIONSETTLEMENT
Consumption - Reykjavík in the 20th century The exhibition aims to show the huge and rapid changes that took place in consumption patterns in Reykjavík during the 20th century –to explore the factors that affected consumption, and how technical advances, government actions, wars, and events in Iceland and abroad influenced the daily life of the people of Reykjavík.
This is a museum in the heart of Reykjavík that houses the work of Iceland’s first sculptor Einar Jónsson. The museum contains close to 300 artworks spanning a 60-year career: carvings from the artist’s youth, sculpture, paintings and drawings. A beautiful tree-clad garden adorned with 26 bronze casts of the artist’s works is located behind the museum. The task of the museum is to collect, preserve and display the work of Einar as well as to conduct research on his life and art.
decadesin(1897-1981)GuðmundsdóttirlearnedweavingCopenhagen,andforseveralsheranaweavingatelier on Ásvallagata in Reykjavík. She wove upholstery and curtain fabrics for public bodies, businesses and homes, where the colours and textures harmonised with their surroundings. Her embroidery fabrics were used in school pupils‘ needlework projects for many years, and embroidered wall-hangings and cushions from Karólína‘s atelier adorned many Icelandic homes. She was thus an influence upon Icelanders‘ home furnishings and taste. In addition, her work led people to recognise the fine qualities of Icelandic wool and changed attitudes to crafts and needlework.
EINAR MUSEUMJÓNSSON
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The Settlement Exhibition An open excavation where Viking ruins meet multimedia technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work in 2001, these archaeological remains turned out to be the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city, with some dating to before AD 872. Careful excavation revealed a 10th-century hall or longhouse, which is now preserved in its original location as the focal point of the exhibition. Interactive technology immerses you in the world of the Reykjavík farm at the time of the first settlers, including information on how Viking Age buildings were constructed and what life was like in the hall. The Settlement Exhibition is part of Reykjavík City Museum Árbær Open Air Museum Einar Jónsson Museum
Gissur Guðjónsson - Site Gissur creates landscape photographs that include traces of human activity. The focus is in the found and the accidental. Images reframe the discarded, overlooked and left over inviting new interpretations. A recent graduate from Ljósmyndaskólinn –The School of Photography, Gissur is based in Selfoss.
AÐALSTRÆTI 10 Aðalstræti ...and the story continues Family-friendly and informative exhibition about the development of Reykjavík, from farm to city. This new display is a direct continuation of The Settlement Exhibition, representing Reykjavík’s history from settlement to the present day. Visitors get an insight into the complex history and culture of Reykjavík through the development of house construction and planning with a stop at the oldest house in the city centre, Aðalstræti 10. The admission is valid to both Aðalstræti 10 and The Settlement Exhibition in Aðalstræti 16.
REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY
EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
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80 EVENTS made use of various media in the visual arts. Within it you will find everything from performances, video works, graphics, multiples and collages, to larger works in public spaces and paintings of all scales. All have helped to earn his place in the art history of Europe. Here presented is the most extensive exhibition that has been realised of the artist’s works in Iceland. The exhibition The Power of Images reflects Erró’s remarkable career and is based upon the artist’s donation of his art to the City of Reykjavík. It is installed across Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús, with more than 300 artworks of various kinds, as well as, photographs and other information about the artist exhibited.
REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM HAFNARHÚS Erró: The Power of Images Erró is one of the few Icelandic artists who has gained a foothold in the international art scene. The Power of Images is a comprehensive overview of the artist’s colourful career that has Erró Elvar Örn Kjartansson
Elvar Örn Kjartansson - The System Elvar Örn’s carefully considered collection of images presents images of industrial plant machinery, engineering works, treatment plants and other functional infrastructure. All the stuff you never see, or even think of unless it breaks. Photographed with a clinical and utilitarian approach, these are the spaces upon which our civilisation rests. An interesting and thought provoking show.
Experience the amazing Langjökull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity Find us: #intotheglacier www.intotheglacier.is Daily departures from Húsafell center and Reykjavík
Fish • Lamb • Whale • Icelandic cuisine with a twist Icelandic music and nightlife Mix with the locals ...and all the Icelandic beers in one awsome place! INGÓLFSSTRÆTI 1A 101 REYKJAVÍK www.islenskibarinn.is postur@islenskibarinn.is sími: 517 6767
The Icelandic Punk Museum is located at Bankastræti 0, an underground location that served as public toilets from 1930 to 2006. The museum honours the music and the spirit that has shaped musicians and bands to this day; people who dared to be different. Objects, photographs, videos, posters, etc. from roughly 1978 to 1992 are on display with texts in Icelandic and English, and the main music from the period is available to guests.
83 EVENTS
HOUSE COLLECTIONSOF National Treasures
The National Gallery of Iceland’s collection contains over eleven thousand works. In the exhibition Treasures of a Nation, a selection of works from the collection displays the evolution of art in Iceland from the early nineteenth century to our times. Punk Museum House of Collections
EXHIBITIONS&MUSEUMS
Welcome to Jómfrúin, the home of Danish smørrebrød in Reykjavik. It all began in 1888 with Oscars Davidsen’s highly praised smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. An unbroken tradition of quality and Danish culinary culture for the past 100 years. Enjoy! Open every day 11:00 - 22:00 | Lækjargata 4 | 101 Reykjavík | jomfruin.is
THE PUNKICELANDICMUSEUM
THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION
VIÐEY ISLAND
A harbour museum exploring Iceland’s dramatic relationship with the sea. The survival of a nation depended on generations of brave fishermen heading into the unknown. Exhibitions and artefacts bring our ocean history to life. Guided tours of Óðinn Coast Guard Vessel: Grandagarður10-17. 8, Reykjavík | www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is411-6340
REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
WHALES OF ICELAND
A museum with indoor and outdoor exhibitions dedicated to the work of Einar Jónsson Iceland’s first modern sculptor (1874-1954). The museum was built in the early 1900’s when Einar Jónsson offered all of his works as a gift to the Icelandic nation. Hallgrímstorg 3, Reykjavík 551-3797 | www.lej.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17
REYKJAVIK CITY LIBRARY FREE ENTRY
Looking for a place to hang out, browse the internet, get access to Wi-Fi or meet the Reykjavik locals? Then Reykjavik City Library is the perfect place to visit. Have a seat and dip into the latest magazine or relax while checking out their great selection of Hours:411-6100Tryggvagatabooks.15,Reykjavík|borgarbokasafn.isMon-Thu:10-16,Fri11-16
ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM
REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
Reykjavík’s only open air museum, where you can stroll through the past and experience the way we lived. Fun, fascinating and full of surprises, this living museum takes you on a journey through time. Guided tours at 13:00 all year Kistuhylur,round.Reykjavík411-6304|reykjavikcitymuseum.isHours:Daily13-17
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REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY
An island, where art, history and nature lie just beyond the city shore. The combination of stunning views, historical ruins and contemporary art pieces make Viðey island something special. Just a short boat ride takes you to another world. Ferry Schedule: Weekends only. Viðey www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is411-6356.Reykjavik
An open excavation where Viking ruins meet digital technology. Just below ground in downtown Reykjavík, this open excavation uncovers the city’s Viking Age history. Discovered during building work, then carefully excavated, these remnants of the past are the earliest evidence of human settlement in the city.
AÐALSTRÆTI 10 REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
An exhibition in Reykjavík consisting of 23 life-size whale models - fun to touch and explore. Learn more about whales with in-depth multimedia and interactive information displays, videos and audio guide in several languages mixed with soothing whale sounds and underwater ambient lighting. Fiskislóð 23-25 , Reykjavík 571-0077 | www.whalesoficeland.is Hours: Daily 10-17
REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM
EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM
Aðalstræti 10 & 16, Reykjavík | 411-6370 Hours:www.reykjavikcitymuseum.isDaily10-17
CULTURE&ART
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Reflecting the contemporary, while archiving the past – this is Reykjavík’s home of photography. Reykjavík’s main photography museum offers an ongoing programme of contemporary and historical exhibitions, and an onscreen archive of thousands of images from the past. Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavík | 411-6390 reykjavikcitymuseum.is | Hours: MonThu 10-18, Fri 11-18, Sat & Sun 13-17
The city’s oldest house, built in 1762 houses an exhibition detailing the history of Reykjavík, and the daily life of the people who inhabited it, continuing where the nearby Settlement Exhibition leaves Aðalstrætioff. 10, 101 Reykjavík 411 6300 | www.borgarsogusafn.is
Prices & availability are subject to change without notice. Over 100 tours & 9.499 ISK Book on re.is Volcano Hike with Guidance Northern Lights Tour TransfersAirport The Flybus operates in connection with all arriving & departing flights at Keflavík International Airport. All flights Free WiFi45 min For our flexible schedule, please visit www.flybus.is 10%DISCOUNTPROMOCODE:WHATSON22 3.499 ISK Book on re.is 6.291 ISK 6.990 ISK Book on re.is
Over 100 tours & activities on re.is BSÍ Bus Terminal - City Centre •101 Reykjavík 4.999 ISK 5.999 ISK Book on re.is Round-Trip Transfer 18.999 ISK Book on re.is Wonders of NationalSnæfellsnesPark 8.799 ISK Book on re.is Golden Circle Direct 21.999 ISK Book on re.is Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon & Diamond Beach SPECIALOFFER
AURORA REYKJAVIK
The Northern Lights Center, Aurora Reykjavik, allows you to experience the northern lights in a completely different way, both if you saw them, but as well if they escaped you while in Iceland. The centre features information, education and of course stunning visuals of the elusive lights that’ll get your heart racing.
FLYOVER ICELAND FlyOver Iceland utilises state-of-the-art technology to give you the feeling of flight. You will hang suspended, feet dangling, before a 20-metre spherical screen while the film whisks you away on an exhilarating journey across Iceland. Special effects, including wind, mist and scents, combine with the ride’s motion to create an unforgettable Fiskislóðexperience.43, 101 Reykjavík. 527-6700. www.flyovericeland.is Hours: Mon-Fri, 11:00-19:00 & Sat-Sun, 11:00-19:00.
Probably the most unique museum you’ll visit on your trip, the Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of a kind. Here you’ll find a collection of more than two hundred penises and penile parts belonging to almost all land and sea mammals that can be found in Hours:561-6663Hafnartorg,Iceland.Reykjavík|www.phallus.isDaily10-19
A museum that Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson’s wife founded as a tribute to his life and work in 1984. She had his studio in Laugarnes converted to an exhibition space to house his collection of works, including sculptures, sketches, drawings and biographical
THE PHALLOLOGICALICELANDIC MUSEUM
SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM
Offers state-of-the-art exhibitions on the cultural history of Iceland. The permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation - Heritage and History of Iceland, gives a comprehensive picture of Iceland’s cultural history through the ages to the present day.
HOME OF AN ARTIST
Its objective is to collect, study and present Icelandic design and crafts from 1900 to the present day. This young museum, the only one of its kind in Iceland, holds regular exhibitions of Icelandic and international design during the year. Exhibitions from the museum‘s own collection are regularly held.
One of the pioneers of Icelandic art and the first Icelander to take up painting professionally. Having died in 1958, he bequeathed all his works, as well as his studio home to the Icelandic Bergstaðastrætination. 74, Reykjavík Hours:www.listasafn.is515-9625Tue-Sun10-17 www.whatson.is
CULTURE&ART Find more recommendations on
Suðurgata 41, Reykjavík 530-2200 | www.nationalmuseum.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17
Grandagarður 2, Reykjavík 780-4500 | www.aurorareykjavik.is Hours: Daily 9-21
Varmahlíð 1, Reykjavík 566-9000 | www.perlan.is Hours: 9-22
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND
MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART
Hours:553-2906Laugarnestangimaterial.70|www.lso.isTue-Sun13-17
PERLAN This peculiar building, built on top of six water tanks on a hill overlooking the city, houses two exhibitions, The Wonders of Iceland and Water in Icelandic Nature. In addition, Perlan has a recently-opened planetarium, a café and gelateria, and an observation deck with a 360° view of the city and its surrounding nature.
Iceland's leading art museum, established in 1884. Its collection consists mainly of 19th, 20th and 21st century art. The National Gallery possesses a coherent array of Icelandic works and a fine collection of international art. Together they constitute around 11,000 items.
Garðatorg 1, Garðabær 512-1525 | www.honnunarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17
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Fríkirkjuvegur 7, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is
NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND
HAFNARBORG FREE ENTRY
Sigtún, Hours:411-6430Reykjavík|www.artmuseum.isDaily10-17
GERÐARSAFN
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GLJÚFRASTEINNLAXNESS MUSEUM Halldór Laxness is arguably the most famous Icelandic writer of all time, and the only Icelander to have won a Nobel Prize, which he received for literature in 1955. Gljúfrasteinn was his home until his death, and today it is a museum dedicated to his life and work.
HOUSE OF COLLECTIONS
Tryggvagata 17, Reykjavík 411-6400 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17, Thu 10-22
Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur 441-7600 | www.gerdarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17
The old harbour warehouse, Hafnarhús, offers a progressive exhibition program with local and international contemporary artists. The work of current notables, art canons and newcomers is presented in six galleries.
Mainly devoted to paintings and sculpture by well established Icelandic and international artists. Kjarvalsstaðir offers a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, as well as changing exhibitions that explore various thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art.
KJARVALSSTAÐIR
Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær 586-8066 | www.gljufrasteinn.is Hours: Tue-Fri 10-17
THE NORDIC HOUSE
Iceland maintains strong ties to other Nordic countries, and the center of this cooperation is the Nordic House, designed by acclaimed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto in 1968. The Nordic House is the venue if you want to enjoy the best of Icelandic culture as well as experiencing rich culture of the Nordic Hours:551-7030Sturlugatacountries.5,Reykjavík|www.nordice.isTue-Sun:10-17
THE LIVING ART MUSEUM
Flókagata 24, Reykjavík 411-6420 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17
A progressive modern art museum in Kópavogur, dedicated to sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir; the only museum in Iceland dedicated to a woman. Its collection consists of more than 1,400 works by Gerður, as well as the works of the most celebrated Icelandic artists of the 20th and 21st century.
House of collections was built in 1906 and for most of the 20th century served as the country’s National Library. The stately building currently houses the National Gallery’s exhibition Treasures of a Nation, displaying works from the Gallery’s extensive collection depicting Iceland’s art history from the early 19th century to our times. Hverfisgata 15, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Daily 10-17 ÁSMUNDARSAFN Opened in 1983, the collection is housed in a unique building designed and constructed mostly by the artist himself from 1942-1950. The original building served Sveinsson as studio and home; behind it he built a crescent-shaped structure as a work and exhibition space.
An active exhibition space that has organized many exciting exhibitions throughout the years. They put an emphasis on introducing young Icelandic artists, as well as showcasing work by better-known Icelandic and foreign modern and contemporary artists.
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Hafnarhús is also home to the works of Erró (b. 1932), a significant player in the international pop art scene.
CULTURE&ART
Hafnarborg has a collection of Icelandic art and regular exhibitions presenting leading Icelandic and international artists. Collection exhibitions are a regular part of the program. Around exhibitions are workshops and guided Strandgatatours. 34, Hafnarfjörður 585-5790 | www.hafnarborg.is Hours: 12-17, closed on Tuesdays
The Marshall Hours:551-4350GrandagarðurHouse20,Reykjavík|www.nylo.isWed-Sun:12-18
Laxnes Horse Farm is a family run business and the oldest tour operator in Iceland. Founded in 1968, the farm offers horseback riding tours all year round for travelers interested in the gentle Icelandic horse. www.laxnes.isinfo@laxnes.is+354 566 6179 BOOK YOUR TOUR HERE
Port 9 wine bar is a hidden gem just off the main shopping street. Serving selected wines and a unique blend of appetizers made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, Port 9 is one of the best spots in the city to stop by for a glass of quality wine in a relaxed Veghúsastíguratmosphere. 9, Reykjavík www.port9.is897-8212
NIGHTLIFE&PUBS
This hostel café/bar is bright and spacious; the perfect place to start the night. The hall hosts events most nights and on summer afternoons, the balcony is the best place in town for a beer in the sun. Last but not least, Loft has the best foosball table of all the bars in the city centre.
Laugavegur 86, Reykjavík
If you are visiting Iceland for the first time then you must stop by the Lebowski Bar. Open every day from 11AM, happy hour from 4-7PM, food served until 10PM, Quiz every Thursday (free entry), live sport events on 5 HD screens and Reykjavik nightlife every Friday & Saturday.
Laugavegur 22 www.kiki.is
In a cellar underneath Restaurant Reykjavík, just off Ingólfstorg square, you will find Micro Bar. This ambitious bar serves only beer from microbreweries! Carrying an impressive 140 different kinds of beers from all over the world, this is definitely the go-to place for beer fans.
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PORT 9
RÖNTGEN In the early 20th century, Hverfisgata 12 was home to the country’s first X-ray clinic. Today, the building houses one of the city’s newest bars but the name pays homage to the building’s long history. Expect cocktails, natural wines, and the city’s artsiest crowd having a night out. Hverfisgata 12, Reykjavík www. www.rontgenbar.is peckish after a few glasses of their delicious wines, they also serve snacks and small plates. The cosy bar is perfect for having a few glasses of wines with friends or a date. Laugavegur 27, Reykjavík 888 2380
This cozy little bar is named after the Icelandic word for weather, Icelanders’ conversation topic of choice in most situations. Offering a selection of wine, beer, and cocktails, Veður is a great spot for hanging out with friends, and the large windows make it ideal for people-watching over a drink. Klapparstígur 33, www.vedurbarinn.isReykjavík
LOFT HOSTEL
Bankastræti 7, Reykjavík 553-8140
Laugavegur 20a, Reykjavík www.lebowski.is552-2300
Beer enthusiasts look no further!
KIKI - QUEER BAR Kiki is the only queer bar in town these days but it is also the best one! If you’re worried you won’t find the place, don’t be. The rainbow coloured street entrance, stream of people in a dancing mood, and the far-off sound of dance-heavy beats should lead you where you want to go!
VEÐUR
EINSTÖK
There’s nothing like an Einstök beer after a long day of exploring Reykjavíkand now there’s a whole bar dedicated to this popular brew! Einstök literally means unique and after a few sips of their refreshing craft ale, brewed with fresh water from Northern Iceland, we’re sure you’ll agree. The recently opened Laugavegur bar makes it even easier to enjoy their variety of ales, ranging from citrusy fresh white to the darkest of Laugavegurporters.10,Reykjavík
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This homey pub with a Danish theme is popular among locals. Happy hour every day from 4-7pm and live music with talented Icelandic musicians every night. Beer bingo every month and other fun events! Located in the heart of the city centre. Ingólfsstræti 3, Reykjavík www.danski.is552-0070
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A popular pub in city centre. The English Pub offers happy hour every day from 4-7pm, live music every night, wheel of fortune and all major sport events are shown on 6 HD screens. Special events: Open Mic Tuesday, Guinness Thursday and Whisky AusturstrætiSunday. 12, Reykjavík facebook.com/enskibarinn578-0400
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DEN DANSKE KRO
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American Bar is named appropriately since it’s an American Bar in Reykjavík, of the kind you’re probably familiar with from other countries: there are dudes, chicks and random university students partying to the latest MTV tunes. They specialize in American culture and 571-9999Austurstrætientertainment.8,Reykjavík
Best known as Damon Albarn’s hangout place back in the day, this most famous bar in Iceland is a popular destination for the artsy crowd. During the week it‘s more of a café, but on the weekend the volume rises and KB becomes one of the hottest bars in 551-1588BergstaðastrætiReykjavik.1,Reykjavík www.kaffibarinn.is
THE IRISHMAN PUB
THE ENGLISH PUB
AMERICAN BAR
An Irish-style pub in downtown Reykjavík. Happy hour every day from 12PM to 7PM! Guests can enjoy a game of darts, listen to live music Thursday to Sunday evenings, spin the wheel of fortune and you can even book a private karaoke room! Sláinte. Klapparstígur 27, Reykjavík www.irishman.is581-2020
One of the coolest bars in Reykjavik these days is Kaldi Bar. In close cooperation with north Icelandic micro brewery of the same name, Kaldi offers you a selection of craft brewed beers on tap. Great happy hour and great fun, Kaldi is a place not to be Laugavegurmissed! 20b, Reykjavík 581-2200
Ingólfsstræti 2a 3rd floor, Reykjavík 563-4000 | www.ktf.is
PETERSEN SVÍTAN Built in 1926 as an apartment, the Petersen Suite is one of Reykjavík’s hidden gems. Take the elevator up to the third floor above the historic Gamla Bíó concert hall to reveal an elegant bar with one of Reykjavík’s best views. On sunny days, you need to get there early, the sunny patio fills up quickly!
MIAMI The 80s style cocktail bar Miami is colourfully decorated on Hverfisgata. Downstairs, you’ll find a ping pong stadium where punters can take on challengers. Miami comes alive at night when the colours pop out, such as the neon-lit bar. There are G&T and Cuba Libre on tap and try to find the Möet switch for all your champagne theneeds.newly established Club Sólon is booming with music, dancing, cocktails and drinks on two floors until 4AM in the morning. Start your evening on the cozy 1st floor lounge area with 2-for-1 cocktails and then dance the night away with the local Bankastræticrowd. 7a, Reykjavík 562-3232
SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is 990 1.690 INHAPPYHAPPIESTHOURREYKJAVÍK ICE L A N D I C G A S T ROP U B
THE LAUNDROMAT CAFE
SPÁNSKI BARINN
Situated right downtown in Austurstræti, Laundromat houses laundry facilities and a family-friendly environment. A spacious recreational room downstairs will keep your children busy while you’re chomping on the bistro menu. Whether it’s brunch, board games or beer you’re looking for, Laundromat should have you Austurstræticovered.
GRANDI MATHÖLL
9, Reykjavík
DINING&WINING
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Find
Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík 599-6660 | www.nautholl.is
Grandi Mathöll is a must visit for foodies. Situated in the hip Grandi area, the European style food hall has everything from fresh salmon ceviche to Vietnamese spring rolls and Korean tacos. Right next door is one of Iceland’s busiest harbours, and visitors can see a feed of live ship arrivals. Grandagarður 16, Reykjavík 577-6200 | www.grandimatholl.is restaurant institution at this point, having opened in 1979. Situated in downtown Reykjavík, it was the first Italian restaurant in town and is as strong as ever. Expect fresh pizza, made right in front of the guests in the open kitchen. The cozy place is also a decent spot for people watching, with its large 551-3340Hafnarstrætiwindows.15,ReykjavíkIwww.hornid.is of British and Icelandic culture, with fresh, quality Icelandic fish served in the traditional British way. You can even get mushy peas and malt vinegar with it! Festing on hot fish and chips while looking over the old harbour is an unbeatable Reykjavík experience. Between the Reykjavík Maritime Museum and Reykjavík Marina Hotel 840-4100 | fishandchipsvagninn.is more recommendations on www.whatson.is MarinaHotel Geirsgata
A restaurant opposite the old harbour that offers traditional steak dishes along with some exciting and fairly unorthodox choices. The pride and joy of The Steakhouse is the Mibrasa charcoal oven, a rare oven that is designed to cook the perfect steak by mixing modern technology with ancient Tryggvagatatradition.4-6, Reykjavík 561-1111 | www.steik.is THE ICELANDIC BAR
Situated just off Laugavegur, the Spanish style bodega Spánski barinn offers fresh tapas and a quality wine selection. In a dim and cosy basement, guests can enjoy a quality happy hour chock full of wines from Tempranillo to Rioja, as well as a house red on tap. Ingólfsstræti 8, Reykjavík 832-8881
THE STEAK HOUSE
The Icelandic Bar is very aptly named: it is an Icelandic bar. But more than that, it is a bar that aims to preserve the essence of being Icelandic by
DUCK & ROSE
This trendy restaurant overlooking Austurvöllur square serves light and delicious food, inspired by French and Italian cuisine. The duck dishes are highly recommended but whatever you do, don’t forget to order one of their expertly mixed cocktails!
NAUTHÓLL Looking out over the Nauthólsvík beach, this charming Scandinavianinspired bistro is the perfect oasis from the stress of the everyday. Whether you’re there for a light lunch, a glass of wine on a sunny afternoon, a cup of hot coffee on a cold one, or a lovely dinner with a loved one, Nauthóll is the place to go.
As the name suggests, Reykjavík Meat is the city’s newest new steakhouse. The food is cooked over coals giving it a delicious flavour, and crowning their menu is the award-winning sashi marbled beef. They also offer seafood, lamb and vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as delicious cocktails!
JÓMFRÚIN An open-sandwich restaurant in the Danish tradition offering authentic Danish smørrebrød along with a selection of hot dishes. The restaurant is located in the heart of the city centre and seats 80 guests. It is a popular lunch venue, especially with people from the business sector.
DINING&WINING
BÆJARINS BEZTU
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur literally means The Town’s Best Hot Dogs. A must try while visiting, it is the perfect on-the-go food. We dare you to time the hot dog artists at Bæjarins Beztu after you order ‘ein með öllu’ (one with everything). They are incredibly quick to make a concoction of raw onions, fried onions, ketchup, remoulade, Icelandic mustard and the dog Tryggvagataitself.1,101 Reykjavík 511-1566 | www.bbp.is
FORRÉTTABARINN Tasty tapas with an Icelandic twist. With a new spin on traditional Icelandic cuisine and an extensive selection of local beer, Forréttabarinn – “The Starters Bar” – is worth seeking out when you need a bite to eat or a place to start your night out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose from the refreshingly creative menu, you’re in for a Nýlendugatatreat! 14, Reykjavík 517-1800 | KRYDD is an à la carte restaurant that offers a dinner and lunch menu, along with appetizers and a state of the art cocktailbar. On Sundays, it offers a brunch buffet between 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM. StrandgötuHafnarborg,34, Open:www.kryddveitingahus.isHafnarfjörðurM-T11-23,F-S,11-01,S 11-23 Hlemmur Mathöll is a European style food hall featuring global delicacies alongside tasty Icelandic dishes. A former bus station, Hlemmur is now the new home for gourmands and fast food lovers alike in Reykjavík. Hlemmur brims with life on both weekends and weekdays alike, so head on down to see what the fuss is about. Laugavegur, Reykjavík 787-6200 | www.hlemmurmatholl.is
YUZU The east-Asian citrus fruit was a stranger to Icelandic palates until a few years ago and now there’s a whole burger place dedicated to its aromatic sourness. This upscale burger joint will keep your belly full and your taste buds delighted with an array of burgers, cocktails and even a signature brew. Vegan options available!
Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is
Bankastræti 7a, Reykjavík 562-3232 | www.solon.is
FORSETINN Feeling presidential? Why not sit down for a powerful beverage (hot or cold) or even a light meal fit for a president in the cosy retro atmosphere on the city’s main street. Forsetinn (Icelandic for President) is a versatile spot - café, bistro, and bar - perfect for people watching at any time of the day.
Frakkastígur 8, Reykjavík 557-7665 | www.rvkmeat.is
REYKJAVÍK MEAT STEAKHOUSE
Lækjargata 4, Reykjavík www.jomfruin.is551-0100
Hverfisgata 44, Reykjavík
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SÓLON BISTRO & BAR
Sólon offers seafood, lamb, salmon, salads, hamburgers and juicy steaks, as well as a delicious fish of the day. Sólon resides in a beautiful old building on the main shopping street with high & wide windows, perfect for people watching! Local beer, wine, coffee, cocktails, and Black Death are served at Sólon Bistro & Bar.
Frakkastígur 16, Reykjavík Fákafen 11, www.braudogco.isReykjavík
Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is
KOPAR Kopar is a restaurant by the old harbour in Reykjavik which has an emphasis on adventure and experience in a brasserie setting. Their menu is composed of various locally sourced ingredients from sea and land, and aims to give you a taste of Iceland in a single evening. Geirsgata 3, Reykjavík www.koparrestaurant.is567-2700
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PUBLIC HOUSE This Laugavegur gastropub is a great place to treat yourself to a a dinner and some drinks with friends, old and new. With a delicious menu of Asian-fusion inspired small plates to share and an even more delicious menu of cocktails, Public House is a recipe for a fun evening. If you want a fun morning or a fun afternoon instead, check out their bottomless brunch! Laugavegur 24, 101 www.publichouse.isReykjavík
Head out to Brauð & Co. to get your hands on the scrumptious sourdough bread and tasty cinnamon buns. The early bird gets the worm, so don't be late! Keep in mind that the queue can get quite long, but it's well worth it.
FISH COMPANY Quality, fusion and fun are the Fish Company’s main characteristics. The interior is stylish and the quirky tableware fits in wonderfully. The menu is a world of adventures from starters to deserts. It’s designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters but a trip around the world. Vesturgata 2a, Reykjavík 552-5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is
DINING&WINING
LA PRIMAVERA One of Iceland’s most treasured restaurants has made a comeback. The Italian delicacies of La Primavera are here to stay. Situated in the Marshall building, a former fishing warehouse, the building is also home to an art gallery, an art studio and the Living Art GrandagarðurMuseum.20&Harpa Concert hall, www.laprimavera.is519-7766Reykjavík
Opens early, closes at 18:00.
BASTARD This Irish-bar looking restaurant is one of the city’s best places to sit down for a quick lunch and end up whiling away a whole afternoon in the cosy booth while the game is on or on the sunny patio. The weekend-bottomless brunch is particularly popular. so make sure to get a www.bastardbrewandfood.is558-0800Vegamótastígurreservation!4,Reykjavík
BREWDOG Hop lovers, rejoice! UK’s Craft Beer Phenomenon just opened a bar and restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, located at the corner of Hverfisgata and Frakkastigur. Featuring 20 taps including BrewDog’s headliners, seasonals and one off brews as well as great local Icelandic craft beers. Highly impressive food menu and a very cosy www.brewdog.comFrakkastíguratmosphere.8,Reykjavík
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Monkeys is an exciting restaurant offering Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese recipes and traditions with Peruvian ingredients. Exciting flavours of miso, ginger, soy, wasabi, and rice vinegar are mixed with quinoa, bell peppers, Andean potatoes, and corn, in a beautiful setting that creates just the right atmosphere. A great addition to the Reykjavík culinary scene! Klapparstígur 30, 101 Reykjavík 519-5350 | www.monkeys.is
GRILLHÚSIÐ A fun restaurant, with the look and feel of an American Diner. Reasonably priced, offering delicious food and a very good service, you‘ll definitely get great value for your money here. They put a special emphasis on using only high quality ingredients, making for a terrific Laugavegurmeal.
www.grillhusid.is527-5000
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IF YOU NEED MORE INFO, INFO@WHATSON.ISCONTACT
There are different parking zones which charge different rates. Look for a parking sign (the familiar big P) indicating zones 1-4 and parking garages. Look for the nearest black terminal to pay, with cash or card, and type in your car’s number plate, no ticket necessary!
Getting an Icelandic SIM card is easy, you can get them at the airport, phone companies, and, of course, the What’s On tourist information centre at Laugavegur 5.
GO SWIMMING
GET TO THE AIRPORT
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HOW TO ...
PARK IN THE CITY CENTRE
Iceland’s international airport is located in Keflavík, about 50km from Reykjavík. If you rent a car or take a cab, it will take about 45 minutes to get to Reykjavík. A cheaper but just as reliable option is taking a bus to and from the airport. They connect to flights and will drop you off or pick you up at bus stops close to your accommodation in Reykjavík.
There are 18 swimming pools in the capital area and if you have the time, you should try them all. Swimming is great, but don’t miss relaxing in the hot tubs – this is where the community gathers and socialises. If you haven’t packed a bathing suit, you can rent one at the pool.
Strætó is the Icelandic bus company, and their yellow buses are easy to spot around the city. In November 2021, Strætó introduced the KLAPP payment system in their buses. You have three ways to pay. With a top up KLAPP card, with the KLAPP app, and with KLAPP ten, a bus pass with ten tickets. You can buy KLAPP cards and KLAPP ten at selected gas stations, convenience stores, museums, and swimming pools. For more information, go to https://www.klappid.is/en/sales
INFORMATIONPRACTICAL
Iceland has its own currency, the Icelandic króna (ISK). It’s best to get króna at any bank (open Monday to Friday, 9-4), including the one at the Keflavík International Airport (open 24/7). You can either exchange money or go to an ATM to get cash.
Find more recommendations on www.whatson.is
TAKE THE BUS
MAKE CALLS
Credit card and debit card payments are widely accepted in Iceland.
Visit What’s On at Laugavegur 5 or contact us at info@whatson.is.
TEL: +354 571 1100 - Skólavörðustígur 14, 101 Reykjavík - www.sjavargrillid.is
Meet some of Iceland’s finest designers Epal Skeifan 6 / Epal Design Kringlan / Epal Icelandic Design Laugavegi 70 www.epal.is
BOO ALSOTRYWHALEWATCHING WE GO THE EXTRA MILE GOLD CLASS ENV RONMENTAL UM V R SF O KU Ó CERTIFIED TRAVEL SERV CE +354-560-8800 specialtours.is info@specialtours.is New Special Tours Iceland multilingual app FROM REYKJAVIK LIGHTSNORTHERNBYBOAT THE ORIGINAL
Your Warmth This Winter Minutes from the City Centre ICELAND'S ALL-NEW GEOTHERMAL LAGOON
