Greek Odyssey – Interview with co-founder of Ancient Greek Sandals, Christina Martini

ODYSSEY

Founded on the mantra of paying tribute to the heritage of Greece, Ancient Greek Sandals have become a global success. As the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary, Co-Founder and Creative Director of the brand, Christina Martini, talks us through the journey of building the AGS brand.

WORDS: OLIVIA MORRIS

IMAGES: SUPPLIED Talk us through your career. I grew up in Athens, Greece and studied footwear design at Cordwainers College in London. My first job was as a product manager for an Italian, luxury footwear factory called IRIS, where footwear collections for brands such as Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton were made at the time. This is where I met the footwear designer of Louis Vuitton who asked me to be his assistant. In December of 2002, I landed at the Louis Vuitton studio in Paris. It was a dream come true and I really enjoyed my six years working alongside Fabrizio Viti and under the creative direction of Marc Jacobs. I was working for the women’s shoe [commercial and show] collections. I then went on to work at Balenciaga, with the amazing Pierre Hardy, under the creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere. When I fell pregnant with my first child, I realised that I wanted to return to my homeland… at least for a year [or so I thought]. But it was then that I, alongside my business partner Nicolas Minoglou, founded Ancient Greek Sandals. What inspired you to enter the fashion industry and to launch Ancient Greek Sandals? Ever since I was a little girl, I was really drawn to fashion. I loved my mother’s fashion magazines; and her closet! When I started studying shoe design, my goal was to work for a big fashion house. Then, once I had realised this dream, I decided that I wanted to do something which is closer to me; more personal. I always loved the tourist sandals that are sold around The Acropolis in Athens and on the Greek islands. I had an idea in my mind to develop these, in terms of design and quality, and then I met Nikolas, who happened to have the exact same idea but a totally different skillset. It was perfect, so we joined forces and finally launched AGS in 2011. Talk us through the design process for AGS pieces. I always start with the concept of each collection. I usually choose a domain or era of Ancient Greece. Once I have decided where I am going to focus, I then go to museums or buy archaeological books and do my research. From this research, I start to create my first sketches and then choose the best ones, which I make final drawings of in order to make prototypes. The prototypes are made in Athens by four different manufacturers with whom we work very closely tohandmade in Greece and I think nowadays, since so much is mass-produced, this gives an extra value to the brand. Finally, everyone has an idea about Greece, either because of the holidays that they’ve been on, the mythology that they have been taught or Greek food! So, I guess Ancient Greek Sandals are familiar to everyone too… Over the years, what have been the hurdles you’ve experienced when building the brand? We have experienced difficulties in the beginning, mostly related to quality and our endeavour to create the highest quality sandals we can. Fortunately, we were able to resolve these problems and move on, thanks to the amazing dedicated craftspeople we work with. And the milestones? There have been many exciting milestones. Firstly when Rainbowwave showroom [headed up by Maria Lemos – a fellow Greek, based in London] started to represent us and show our brand to their amazing clientele. Colette and NET-A-PORTER picked up our sandals from the first-ever presentation, which was amazing. We have done many collaborations with fellow designers and many monogramming events all over the world – and these are always very close to our hearts. When it comes to summer dressing, what are your go-to pieces? Lem Lem dresses and kaftans because of their light fabrics which are perfect for the Greek summer. A Jacquemus sarong dress for summer gether. When the sandal is done, I try it, and nights. In terms of Greek designers, I wear make corrections based on fit and design. a lot Kimalé – a Greek brand with naïf Once we have validated and corrected the prints, and Angelos Bratis for his bias-cut prototype, we proceed with samples in order satin dresses in rich colours. Finally, I alto present them to buyers during markets. ways wear jewellery by Lito and Sergakis – Where do you get your inspiration? Each Greek jewellers and friends. season, it’s different: it could be Ancient This is The Summer Escape Issue – where Greek Jewellery, Architecture, Ceramics do you want to escape to this summer? I and Statues – all of which have been a huge normally go sailing on the Ionian Sea, exinspiration. Other times it could be just a ploring small uninhabited islands. It’s one myth in my head or something that I might of my favourite things that I dream about have dreamt. Every time I design something, all winter. This year, we are planning to go I have in mind a friend that could wear this to the Epirus mountains and the Acheron sandal because I want to create wearable River which will be a new experience for us. and easy styles for everyone. You’re celebrating your 10-year anniversary for AGS this year. How has the brand evolved since it launched? We started the brand with 30 women’s leather sandals in just two colours! Now, 10 years later, we have five different constructions of sandals, as well as the original natural leather sole: the comfort sole, flip flop sole, memory foam flatform, and jellies. We have also developed over the years to add a men’s collection, kids and from summer 2022 home and bags. We now sell in more than 80 countries at about 300 stores, and in 2019, we also opened our flagship store in Athens. A lot has changed over the years, and yet nothing much. We still remain a fairly small company and stay true to the same values and goals we have upheld since the very beginning. What sets AGS apart from other brands? We created AGS because we believed that there was a gap in the market for what we were creating. There wasn’t any brand doing qualitative, handmade medium-priced sandals that could sit next to other big brands in international stores. The sandals are all

“A lot has changed over the years, and yet nothing much. We still remain a fairly small company and stay true to the same values and goals we have upheld since the very beginning.”

“JADE Swim’s overarching brand concept was to be the go-to brand for quality, timeless swimwear that transcends seasonal trends.”

What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? Recently, I’ve started a new morning routine of writing a gratitude journal. It really refocuses my energy and starts the day in a positive way. I then head straight to emails afterward. What inspired you to start JADE Swim? From covering the swim market as a fashion editor and stylist, I saw a void in the marketplace for high-quality, minimal, clean silhouette swimwear that could also transition from a swimsuit to RTW doubling as great layering pieces. I wanted to provide a go-to line of swimwear with styles that shape and accentuate the body, give minimal tan lines and also seamlessly pair with your closet essentials. Who is the JADE Swim woman? The JADE Swim woman loves the clean cuts of the line and responds to the high quality. She loves that she can purchase a suit and make it her own. JADE Swim pieces seamlessly integrate into the rest of her closet, allowing her to wear them to the beach but also to layer to get so much more use out of the pieces. And, because cuts are classic and timeless – she knows she can keep wearing and reinventing these pieces every summer. Your pieces offer UV protection, can you tell us more about the fabrication of this? Some of our products have UV protection, depending on colours and styles from a certain fabric and vendor, making it the perfect way to lie in the sun stress-free. JADE Swim is designed with every woman’s body shape in mind. Was this a key focus from the outset? Of course, all of our suits are made with high-quality fabric using shape retention technology, to smooth, shape, and accentuate a woman’s body. Every suit we make has a four-way stretch and is lined on the inside with the same quality level of fabric as on the outside, allowing the suits to be a higher quality and provide a more sculpting and supportive fit. We also have a lot of suits that draw attention to certain parts of the body through cut outs and strap detailing. Your pieces are designed with multifunctional versatility. How was this a challenge and how did you overcome it? That’s been the brand’s mantra from day one – that our swimwear can be worn and styled in countless ways. Just like our one pieces which are worn by customers as bodysuits way beyond the beach setting. Our collections are always designed with multifunction and versatility in mind. We offer styles that can be worn from day to night, from beach to city and as both swim and ready-to-wear. When you’re buying a JADE swimsuit, you’re really investing in a piece that can span across your closet’s needs. Sustainability lies at the core of the brand. How has this been an important factor in building the brand? Sustainability is a large focus for us at JADE Swim. From the start of the company, we have produced the majority of our collections using recycled and Oeko Tex-certified fabrics. We also have conscious production where all products are made in the USA at a factory our team visits almost daily ensuring that various initiatives are continued to be followed such as upcycling fabric scraps, working with local trim vendors, limited production runs with all retailer orders made to order instead of mass produced. On the packaging side, all e-comm and retailer orders are shipped in 100 per cent recycled plastic or biodegradable bags as well as recycled boxes. We have compostable thermal labels and recycled plastic packing slip pouches. Beyond all of our direct efforts, we are Climate Neutral certified, a partner with 1% for the Planet and for every order, a tree is planted through our partnership with the Eden Reforestation Projects. Sustainability is really the future of fashion. A lot of sustainability talk stops at fabric and packaging but there are so many other conscious decisions from office operations, factory choices, packaging and trend-less design to sustainable operations that can help a brand maintain its sustainability goals. We try to keep that in mind with every aspect of the business. For example, we produce only for the retailers that order in advance from us and for our e-commerce business, so when production arrives, each unit is already spoken for in a sense, reducing waste. We often sell out of styles or can’t offer a store a restock but keeping production levels and waste levels low is a huge part of our decision-making. Additionally, JADE Swim’s overarching brand concept was to be the go-to brand for quality, timeless swimwear that transcends seasonal trends. What piece of advice would you give to your younger self? I would tell myself to just start. You’ll never know every single aspect of owning a clothing line or starting a business, but you’ll learn along the way. Trust yourself, your life experience, your skills and most importantly, your intuition. I would tell myself that you will make mistakes but, mistakes are a normal part of life and great to learn from. This is The Summer Escape Issue – where would you like to escape to this summer? The Maldives – the last time I went there was about four years ago when I got engaged. It’s such a beautiful place to disconnect and fully relax.

WORDS: SARAH JOSEPH

What do the first 30 minutes of your day look like, your morning routine? It completely differs day to day, however, I do try to wake up as early as possible to maximise productivity. As I’m an early bird, I wake up and immediately go to the gym, as I love to begin my days with an effective workout. I then enjoy a big cup of decaf coffee and begin with my emails, as I like to have everything planned ahead, so my team can ensure their day functions smoothly. What inspired you to start JANTHEE Berlin? I think my adventurous soul is what motivated me the most. By the time I was 18, I Beach Ready was travelling the world, seeing what was out there and realised that there was a lack in the European swimwear market that needed to be filled. As a keen swimwear enthusiast, I didn’t find what I was looking for, whenever I went on a summer vacation.

Linda Hausser, founder of swimwear label JANTHEE Like me, many others felt the same way and I thought this was the perfect opportunity to test the waters and here we are today. How has the brand evolved and what is the core DNA? I started the brand back in

Berlin, on creating versatile 2016 and it has evolved hugely since then. It has been almost six years of continupieces that customers are bookmarking ahead of summer ous learning, as we’re trying to perfect our products both in terms of wearability and consciousness. Since we launched and I become more aware of the market, the focus has shifted to sustainability and fair production. This is why it was important for me to leverage a European supply chain. All our materials are sourced within the EU and our suppliers are certified to ensure they’re being fairly paid and under good working conditions. As our DNA champions versatility and long-lasting pieces, we want to be known as the brand that sells premium bikinis that cater to all.

IMAGES: SUPPLIED Some pieces can be worn eight ways. Was versatility a key from the outset? Yes, indeed. When I started, I was on a tight budget and was my own client. That meant at a young age, I didn’t have the means to mass shop. Hence, I always chose simple, timeless pieces that I knew could be worn on different occasions in many ways. I wanted people to have bikinis that were premium and efficient, yet still affordable. Many of the bikinis can be worn by the poolside and for a night out, making it a must-own for any costumer. What makes JANTHEE Berlin unique compared to the breadth of offerings that already exists in the market? I would say that even though there are plenty of swimwear brands in the market, I feel the relation between quality and price varies greatly. At JANTHEE you get a unique piece you won’t have seen anywhere else. We’re also very proud to be able to say that we have something not many or any brands have yet to achieve in the market which is the combination of timeless pieces, fair fashion, quality and sustainability. We know around 90 per cent of our competitors are still producing in China for low rates and high quantities, that is not what we aim for and that’s probably why ever since we entered the market, we have been gained more and more the trust of consumers. The materials you use are resistant to chlorine and salt water. How challenging was this to incorporate? This is interesting because the challenging part wasn’t finding these details on the fabrics and accessories, but actually finding the right partner who would be willing to embrace this project with me. I wasn’t looking for just a production space, I wanted someone who would share my vision and who would believe in my goals and work alongside me on the challenges that come with the launch and creation of a completely new brand and concept. From the beginning, the goal was to create long-lasting pieces that you could wear either to the pool or the sea and we needed someone with both the skills and the understanding as we didn’t want to be just one more brand in the market. Which styles drive sales season after season? Our bestsellers are definitely the ones you can use in multiple ways because they are so unique, and you don’t really find that elsewhere. For the next collection, dropping end of this year, we are stepping up the game and combining colours in reversible styles, so you can buy one set and have two different hues at once. This is The Summer Escape Issue – where would you like to escape to this summer? Usually, I’m a fan of Mykonos where there’s a good balance between lounging and partying, as I absolutely love the azure waters. However, as I’ve travelled quite a bit already, I’m looking forward to some downtime in Athens, as it’s the perfect mix of beach clubs and peaceful venues. I plan on renting a boat and spending most of my time by the ocean. By the end of summer, I am definitely travelling to my country of origin, Thailand, to spend some quality time with my family. Since COVID, I haven’t had the opportunity to spend much time with them, so we are taking some time to reset and prepare for the next season.

SPECT R UM

WORDS: AMY SESSIONS

MISSONI MARE WELCOMES SUMMER WITH BOLD, BRIGHT WEAVES FOR SS22

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cool

COMFORT

Australian fashion brand Deiji Studios is the go-to to keep you cool and comfortable for summer. Co-Founders Emma Nelson and Juliette Arkeness talk us through the journey of the brand which started as just linen bedding six years ago

Talk us through your career(s). Between us, we worked in various roles within the fashion industry for 10 years – design, graphics, visual merchandising and in retail. We drew on all facets of these experiences when developing the idea of what Deiji was to become. What inspired you to work in the fashion industry and launch Deiji Studios? The initial brand started with linen bedding which organically turned into loungewear which is what we are now known for. We wanted to create timeless pieces that would take you from your bed and around the home to out and about, for a coffee with friends through to even a nice venue with the feeling of comfort whilst still looking your finest. We live by the coast so having that carefree slow lifestyle really inspired us to design clothing that you didn't need to put much thought into, though made you look and feel your best. Talk us through the design process of Deiji Studios pieces? A lot of our design process is a collaboration of ideas by Emma, myself and our head designer. Most of our designs are unisex cuts, oversized and based on how the certain shirt or pants makes you feel more than anything. We take care to produce only things that we would wear ourselves. Boxy shapes and small details frequent our designs. Where do you get your influences for your designs? We are influenced by culture and furniture. Through our years of travel, we have found inspiration in Japan, Korea and France. From the effective simplicity and less is more attitude within Korea and Japan, to the chicness of the French culture. We are lovers of furniture and lamps, these also inspire us when designing. You're celebrating the six-year anniversary of Deiji Studios this year. How have things evolved since the brand launched? Time has flown by so fast, our team has grown and so has our love for what we do. Our brand has truly evolved more than anything to be more conscious of the materials that we use for our designs – that have a flow-on effect on the state of our planet. We always design with the thought in mind – “is that sustainable?” “can it break down?” “will people be wearing them this year?”. With that forefront, we design pieces that will become favourites or staples in your wardrobes for years to come. What sets Deiji Studios apart from other brands? We like to keep things simple and steer clear of anything ‘on trend’. We believe in slow fashion and creating unique pieces that can easily add to your wardrobe as staples. We don’t drop huge collections, rather design small collections that are easy to wear with great shapes and cuts. Over the years, what have been the hurdles you've experienced when building the brand? And milestones? Working with sustainable materials has been difficult, though something we are really adamant on using and one of our core focuses of the business. Delays during Covid from factories and lockdowns have presented many challenges in recent years. Our achievements would by far be the great team we are lucky to work with every day and other creatives we have met within the industry. When it comes to summer dressing, what are your go-to pieces? My consistent go-to’s for summer are the Ease trouser and any of the soft separates. They are light and feel so lovely against the skin during the warmer months. This is The Summer Escape Issue – where do you want to escape to this summer? I would love to escape to New Caledonia or Greece this year, who knows…!

WATERRESISTANT ALLURE

The travel-friendly submersible watches to transition from day to night

WORDS: VARUN GODINHO & SARAH JOSEPH

Limited-Edition BR 03-92 Radiocompass

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Summit 2+ Smartwatch, 43.5mm

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Lady Watch

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Ultra-Chron Box Edition

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