Wednesday March 2, 2022 | MontroseStar.com | PAGE 11
FOODIE DIARIES
IN ONE MONTROSE RESTAURANT
Travel the Culinary World By J im Ay re s met a friend recently for dinner at Traveler’s Table on lower Westheimer. It’s a restaurant that may not have the PR pull of Houston’s big players, but still it has found an audience. The place was jam-packed on this Thursday night. Traveler’s Table’s website tells us “We seek to modernize and elevate traditional dishes by making them lighter, brighter, and full of flavor… what we call, ‘curated global cuisine.’
Street Corn Soup. The corn is creamed with a a letdown. A small portion of fatty smoked few whole kernels popping up every now and duck is accompanied by a rather pedestrian then. The supporting ingredients — epazote, collection of sides (bok choy and sesame lime, and cotija cheese — brighten the umami noodles). I’m not sure what purpose the corn flavor considerably. lauded taro foam served, but we both agreed Argentinian Provoleta proved to be a the tamarind plum sauce was a welcome foil decadent way to share an appetizer with to the smoky flavors. friends. Smoked provolone cheese is melted To go with our meal, we selected a Prunotto right there on the skillet, and you’re invited 2017 Barbaresco. This spunky wine has a to take a wedge of nicely grilled toast and dig youthful vibrancy. According to Wine Enthusiast, right in. Roasted peppers, chimichurri and ew. “Aromas of violet and iris mingle with forest
ˆ Traveler’s Table Mexican Street Corn Soup
ˆ Traveler’s Table Brazilian Shrimp Moqueca
ˆ Traveler’s Table Argentinian Provoleta
While we may use a bit of creative license from time to time, we still try to stay true to the spirit of the originals.” In other words, most of the dishes here would not be called authentic. For the most part however, they’re still damn good! And that’s what we’re after, right? Two intriguing appetizers started our feast. I loved the excellent, if a tad sweet, Mexican
Of our two entrees, one was a big winner while the other missed the cruise ship. Brazilian Shrimp Moqueca is a fantastic dish from start to almost finish (I couldn’t eat it all). A coconut milk and white wine sauce, spiced with cumin and paprika, is a perfect topping for fresh grilled shrimp, while a sofrito and perfectly cooked jasmine rice make this a complete meal. On the other hand, Tea Smoked Duck was
berry and crushed herb in this sleek, savory red. The bright palate shows juicy red cherry, blood orange and star anise.” Isn’t that smart? And to end our meal, who could resist the comfort of New Orleans Bourbon Bread Pudding? My companion proclaimed this bread pudding to be as good as the one at Commander’s Palace. High praise indeed, but well deserved as a salted caramel sauce
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520 Westheimer, Houston, TX 77006
832-409-5785 T R AV E L E R STA B L E .C O M
and pecan praline bits (and the accompanying house made ice cream) make this a must-repeat happy ending. I thoroughly enjoyed traveling the world at Traveler’s Table. The menu is categorized by region (South America, etc.) and you’re sure to find something or someplace to drool over! ¶
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