MAIN COURSE
says Wells, “and the emphasis is on Australian
his attention to hospitality spaces. Darwon has
glasses from Germany and Nachtmann whiskey
produce. We change our menu as often as
taken a ‘blank canvas’ approach, opting not
glasses from Austria, as well as Mepra cutlery
possible, and therefore offer our guests a
to cover up the building’s original concrete
from Italy. The plates and bowls are perhaps
different experience should they pop in on a
floors or replace its floor-to-ceiling windows.
the least conventional elements: they’re heavy
regular basis.”
Decorative details include a radial engine
and bulky with rough finishes and cream
reborn as a chandelier, but there is no artwork
colouring, giving them an almost prehistoric
Chippendale locals, seem to be the target
or bright colours. The goal, according to Wells,
feel. “The tableware was designed and created
demographic at Automata, which has been
was to create a venue that felt utilitarian and
by Loh Lik Peng’s cousin, Loh Lik Kian from
carefully designed to make diners feel at
remained connected to the site’s industrial
Singapore,” Wells explains. “He has a small
ease. The small restaurant accommodates 60
past.
production so we were lucky to work with him
Regulars, be they repeat hotel guests or
across two levels, with the majority of seats
“The design by Matt Darwon focuses on
on this. The colour scheme and bare materials
at two long, communal tables - there is also a
the bare and industrial look of the building,
reflect our minimal style allowing the focus to
scattering of two-person tables. The ground-
which was formerly Carlton & United
be on the food.”
floor kitchen is open, with a sturdy chef’s
Brewery’s administration building,” Wells
bench in full view of diners. Staff are young and
explains. Because Sydney is a young city,
might feel intimidated by Automata’s set-
stylish but also professional, treading the line
historic spaces that have been repurposed
menu concept and fish focus, he seems
between friendly and efficient with aplomb.
are relatively uncommon, and Wells says
confident that the restaurant’s other charms
Automata’s interior is, in some cases, as much
will endear it to international visitors,
at Automata,” says Wells, “whether you’re
of a draw as his menu. “Our clientele ranges
particularly those who want a more low-key
hoping to dine or work with us.” For staff, that
from creative types to young professionals,”
experience than those offered by Silvereye
means a relaxed dress code and contemporary
he says – “in fact, it’s anyone who is remotely
and Kensington Street Social. Sydney locals,
tunes on the stereo. For diners, it means
design conscious.”
meanwhile, seem to have been won over
“We want everyone to feel comfortable
unpretentious food and the ability to rub
The mezzanine level has a wonderfully
already. “We’ve received an overwhelmingly
shoulders with your companions. Says Wells,
tucked-away feel, with a curved ceiling that
positive response since opening,” Wells says.
“Both our dishes and the communal tables
features original dark-wood panels from the
“Small-plate menus are uncommon in the city,
allow for a sense of comfort.”
former administration building – arguably the
but Sydneysiders always seem ready to try new
least ‘industrial’ element of the whole design.
or different things. We’re incredibly grateful.”
Like the other two restaurants at the Old Clare, the interior of Automata was designed by Matt Darwon, aka Matt Machine, a local motorcycle mechanic who has recently turned
068
While Wells admits that some hotel guests
But even this space feels minimalist. That clean, uncomplicated vibe extends to the European tablewear: Spiegelau water
www.automata.com.au