CHEF’S TABLE
Tom Aikens The Chef Patron of Muse by Tom Aikens recalls how a Norfolk childhood surrounded by homegrown produce sparked a lasting respect for seasonality.
When did you first fall in love with cooking?
the impossible with food and he made it look
It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking?
I got my passion for food from both of my
so effortless. I was visiting El Bulli as far back
Sunday is family time. I make pancakes or
parents. My twin brother and I used to help my
as 1996, and each time, the standard got better
waffles with the kids, then we go to feed the
mother out in the kitchen – she would involve
and better. The evolution of his cooking and
chickens. In summer, I do BBQs or make pizzas
us in home baking and weighing ingredients.
technique was spell-binding, he’s a true genius;
on the Gozney oven outside, which they love!
Living in Norfolk, we had a large back garden
even the explanation of how to eat each course
where we grew our own fruits and vegetables,
was fascinating.
And what’s the soundtrack? I have a whole collection of old LPs, so it could
and as a result, I learnt about seasonality from a young age. I was also fortunate enough to travel
And your favourite drink?
be anything from Aretha Franklin to David
to France for family holidays, which allowed me
I am a lover of the whisky sour and I often use
Bowie, Sting, The Beatles, Run DMC or Michael
to discover French cuisine. I remember going
it as a benchmark to judge how good a bar is.
Jackson. Even classical music, sometimes.
into amazing pâtisseries and delicatessens,
One of the best is at The Connaught in London. Where do you get your creative inspiration?
and visiting the vineyards and cellars with my What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?
Inspiration can come at any time or place,
The settings at One & Only Resorts are always
however, it is more often when I’m away from
Tell us about your most memorable meal?
exceptional. I’ve cooked in their kitchens a few
the kitchen. Since the pandemic, I’ve spent more
On one particular trip to France, my father
times and they consistently create genuinely
time in the countryside - I’m a country boy at
booked us into a Michelin-starred hotel
exciting collaborations. The combination of the
heart, so ideas often come when I’m foraging
restaurant by complete accident. He only realised
surroundings, strong culinary ambition and
with my two daughters and my dog, Dottie.
when we arrived to find our car surrounded by
attention to detail always makes it special.
father, who was in the wine business.
Which chefs have inspired you?
four guys wearing white gloves and bow ties. That evening, I had the most amazing meal: a
Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?
The chefs that have given me the most inspiration
beautiful tomato salad with fragrant olive oil,
I am really interested to try Plates London by
are Pierre Koffmann and Joël Robuchon. Pierre
basil, finely diced shallots, coarse sea salt, black
Kirk Haworth – it’s plant-based, and Kirk is so
taught me skill, speed and organisation, and
pepper and chives, followed by a fillet steak that
creative in the way he prepares vegetables, from
from Joël, I learnt about attention to detail – his
melted in my mouth and an accompanying stack
the cooking to the fermenting and pickling.
style was very intricate, so everything had to be in the right place.
of perfectly cooked chips in beef dripping. I remember it like it was yesterday.
Are you an easy-going or a demanding restaurant customer?
Which city is food heaven for you, and why?
Do you have a favourite dish, and who cooks it?
I’m very much there for the food, first and
Paris. The depth of culinary heritage, the respect
I still think about the dishes that I ate at El Bulli
foremost. I understand the demands of a
for technique and the sheer quality of ingredients
before it closed. My wife and I had a seemingly
busy kitchen, so I’m always respectful of the
at every level is extraordinary. You can have a
endless tasting menu that was magical from
process and the team behind it. I look for
life-changing meal in a grand restaurant or a
start to finish. Each course had a unique
honesty, flavour and a sense of care, rather than
simple bistro, and both are approached with
temperature and texture, and I kept thinking,
perfection. Sitting on the other side of the table
the same seriousness and pride. It’s a city that
how did he do that? Ferran Adrià was creating
is a privilege - I never forget that.
constantly inspires me.
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