SERVICE
The Game Changer Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines brings his terroir cuisine to the UK capital, transforming The Stafford into a destination for contemporary fine dining. Words: Hannah Currie • Photography: Courtesy of The Stafford Collection
M
ichael Caines’ first London residency
almost
Born in Exeter in 1969, Caines studied at
didn’t
Exeter College before beginning his professional
happen. Before he signed
career at Grosvenor House Hotel in Mayfair.
with The Stafford earlier this
From there, he trained under Raymond Blanc
year, he was approached by
at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and later in
another hotel about opening a
France with the legendary Bernard Loiseau and
restaurant in the capital. “I got very close to
Joël Robuchon.
agreeing,” he recalls. “But I had a sudden feeling
Having learnt from the best, he became Head
that it wasn’t quite right.” Determined not to
Chef at Gidleigh Park in Devon aged just 25, and
let an opportunity slip away, Caines turned to
went on to secure the restaurant two Michelin
his PR company, who had previously worked
stars, retained for some 18 years. By 2016, it
with The Stafford, for guidance. “I asked them
was time to strike out alone with Lympstone
where they thought would be suitable and they
Manor near Exmouth, a Georgian country house
produced a list of opportunities. But it was The
reimagined as a hotel, restaurant and vineyard.
Stafford that kept coming up.”
“Lympstone is the realisation of a dream,”
The historic St James’ hotel has given Caines
Caines says, reflecting on what the passion
the space to do things his own way. From this
project has become today. “It’s me at my most
vision, Michael Caines at The Stafford, formerly
creative.” Within six months, the Relais &
The Game Bird, is born - a modern European
Châteaux property earned a Michelin star for
restaurant that brings the chef’s signature
its cuisine, and has since become a platform
‘terroir cuisine’ to London’s fine-dining scene
for the chef’s wider ambitions, from launching
with an offering that feels as confident, and full
a cookery academy to planting vines that
of character, as the chef himself.
now produce award-winning sparkling wine.