SERVICE
End of an Era As Le Gavroche prepares to close its doors after 56 years of service, Michel Roux Jr reflects on his family legacy, whilst looking to the future. Words: Eleanor Howard • Photography: Courtesy of Le Gavroche
A
t the moment I feel as though
been through many ups and downs, but we’ve
Le Gavroche is in charge of my
always managed to survive.”
life,” states Michel Roux Jr,
According to Roux, the key to survival is being
reflecting on the decision that
“nimble, fast and adaptable, whilst staying true
sent shockwaves through the
to your roots”, something he has managed to
industry. “I want to be in charge
navigate deftly for over 30 years. Continuing the
of Le Gavroche, not the other way round.”
family legacy, Roux Jr took over from his father
In August of 2023, the two-Michelin-
in 1991, upholding the restaurant’s gastronomic
starred chef took matters into his own hands,
reputation whilst also putting a fresh spin on
announcing that the iconic restaurant would
traditional techniques. “Le Gavroche is very
close its doors after 56 years of service.
much recognisable to someone who dined
Started by his father Albert and uncle Michel
there in the 1960s, ‘70s and ‘80s,” he explains
Snr in 1967, Le Gavroche was one of the first
with pride. “If they come back today, they will
restaurants to bring classic French cuisine
find certain dishes still on the menu, though
to London, and the first in the UK to obtain
they may have evolved.” The eight-course
three Michelin stars. Having survived riots
Menu Exceptionnel for example, nods to the
and recessions, its longevity is quite simply
French classics of Soufflé Suissesse and Pigeon
a remarkable feat in today’s fast-paced world
Rôti, while Roux has introduced contemporary
of business. “Le Gavroche has been through
flavours in dishes such as the pickled and
several cycles, from the IRA bombings when we
torched mackerel topped with a miso dressing,
had to put chicken wire on the front windows,
apple and red radish meat.
to cooking by candlelight in the Winter of
During his tenure, an impressive roll call of
Discontent and, most recently, having to close
culinary talent have worked their way up the
during the pandemic,” he reflects. “We have
ranks before flying solo and making names