From left: Falcon bracelet and Falcon cufflinks, ROBERTO COIN
Emerging Middle Eastern designers are certainly getting their chance to showcase their work alongside internationally renowned peers, and influential members of Saudi society such as Princess Noura bint Faisal Al-Saud have publicly praised the fashion industry, having worked hard to help the dreams of others come true by supporting local designers, both in fashion and jewellery. Dubai-based Bil Arabi is one of these designers; now one of the region’s most sought-after jewellery lines, Nadine Kanso launched the company in 2006 and frequently incorporates Arabic calligraphy in bold enamel on her precious pieces. Meanwhile, The Mukhi Sisters – Maya, Meena, and Zeenat – blend their heritage and family tradition with pioneering design, as does UAE-born Alia bin Omair, whose jewels depict the nature and foliage from the region – think fun-looking palm trees. Mother-and-daughter Nadine Hammond and Cherine Altobaishi are the design duo behind the regional jewellery brand NC Rocks. Their creative passion has been inherited, and thus their jewellery often draws on their multicultural heritage. The maison’s Byzantia necklace, for example, composed of sterling silver dipped in white rhodium, features dazzling diamonds and cabochon enamel in an avant-garde style that represents the grandeur of the Byzantine civilisation. “As Saudi women today, we are empowered by the change and evolution in our country,” says Nadine, before adding that their latest collection, called Armoria, was designed to reflect that sentiment. “Our pieces act as shields of armour, marking this new ideal,” she smiles.
For Cherine, it’s impossible not to embrace the Middle East in their work. “We launched our brand in New York and Paris, so our future plan is to focus more on our brand presence in that region,” she admits, thus agreeing with Jude that the West’s demand for Middle Eastern jewellers is growing. That being said, the duo have recently relocated back to Saudi Arabia from Dubai, which seems to be evolving into a luxury hub that’s a force to be reckoned with. It would certainly seem that, no matter where jewellery is being sold or, in fact, where the brands are based, the desire worldwide for Arabic-styled jewellery is on the increase. Whether it is because of a greater understanding of the region’s culture due to social and political changes, or whether it’s because jewellers from the Middle East are showcasing their skillsets on worldwide platforms more often than generations have previously, it’s yet to be decided. But one thing’s for sure, there’ll certainly be more things to come from the region’s emerging scene of jewellery designers.