Staying Relevant

By Emily Pometkov

The photo shoots were curated to pair with this article’s explanation of different strategies used by luxury brands to stay relevant. We have Diesel’s classic double denim, Ralph Lauren’s Ivy League aesthetic and finally the plastic cups piece inspired by Iris Van Herpen’s 2015 3D printed collection.

As consumers, we are spoilt for choice. Due to the ever-evolving fashion market, it is difficult for brands to stay in the spotlight. So how do fashion brands stay relevant?

Controversy is one-way to create hype around a brand. The idea is to keep them talking about you. One of the best success stories utilising controversy is Diesel. When you think of Diesel, three words come to mind: innovation, provocation, and denim. To outcompete Levi’s, which had taken over the European jean market, Diesel launched campaigns in the 90’s. These included Sun City: a black guy jumping into a swimming pool and LaChapelle’s two sailors kissing at a WWII peace celebration. By sparking conversation about race, sexuality and politics Diesel grew by setting itself apart. One thing was clear: Diesel will not bow down to the American Dream or common marketing strategies. Even now, Diesel does not disappoint. Their microskirt from the Fall/Winter 2022 collection generated titles like: “Diesel is furiously mocked” for a “chunky, low-waisted 90’s belt”. Perhaps, what was more outrageous was the speed with which this $1375 belt sold out. Whilst being a risky move, it was an homage to the past - to a fashion faux-pas!

The dream factor is another way of advertising that brands use to stay in the spotlight. Unlike Diesel, Ralph Lauren is all about the American dream. The Ralph Lauren aesthetic screams Ivy League, sophistication, and exclusivity. Ralph Lauren does not just sell clothes. No. It sells status. They seduce us into buying into their dream of living a prestigious life. It is the feeling of wearing these clothes that allows them to sell and to continue selling throughout generations. A friend once said, “you can tell it’s Ralph Lauren without the little embroidered logo”. Admittedly there has been a movement towards cable-knitted sweaters and polo shirts seen trickling down to many fast-fashion brands such as Hollister. This lets people achieve a similar style for less. However, no one does Ralph Lauren like Ralph Lauren. The fantasy created is why people always gravitate towards it and is precisely why they have stayed relevant. There was, is, and will always be Ralph Lauren.

Sometimes, it is not just about the controversy or the dream factor, sometimes you need to be the one to set new trends. This was the case when Iris van Herpen created her first 3D-printed garment in 2010, called the “crystallisation top”. This is very innovative as 3D printing is cheaper, faster, and reduces waste production. To successfully construct a collection with 3D printing, which many people believe “limits creativity”, is impressive. In fact, the collection was so successful that all their collections since have featured 3D printing in keeping up with their avant-garde aesthetic. I was inspired by this collection and the shift towards sustainable fashion to create a piece made from Pret cups after noticing these cups take up the majority of the rubbish bins in our library, thanks to the Pret subscription. Taking ethical and sustainable decisions garners a lot of traction for a brand. Already people are becoming aware and educating themselves on the morals of their chosen clothing brands. Diesel was able to create shocking campaigns because there was no platform for people to speak about these topics. Social media has impacted and consequently changed the fashion industry and by listening, brands can continue to survive and stay relevant.