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JANUARY
HIGHLIGHTS
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SHOPPING: ILLUMINE
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FEATURE: TRENDING NEW FASHION BOUNDARIES
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BLOOD,SWEAT AND INK
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SELF-BEAUTILATION
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THE BARE NECESSITIES
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ILLICIT ART
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INTERVIEW: THE CULTURE OF DISORDER
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THE ART OF POLITICS
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FASHION SNIPPETS
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ARTS & DESIGN SNIPPETS
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LISTINGS
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REGULARS
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EDITOR’S NOTE
issue 01 Is produced by
EDITOR IN CHIEF Cornelyus Tan cornelyus@modamagsg.com
EDITOR
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Akito Kun akito@modamagsg.com
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ay Den ay.den@modamagsg.com
FASHION EDITOR
CANNOT BE
SILENCED
WILL BE
HEARD SEEN
CAN YOU REALLY
FEEL IT
Aaron Han aaron@modamagsg.com
CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER Gladys Nggladys@modamagsg.com
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Natalie Thery Hiu Zhi Wei
CONTRIBUTors Aaron Han Gabriel Tan Matthew J Fam Amanda Mok Lijuan Yeo
Photography | Cornelyus Tan Lighting | Richard Chen & Alex Low Make-up |Zann Toh Hair | Mark Cheng Styling | Reyme Husaini & Gabriel Tan Model | Alex Lim (LOOQUE)
C o v er Page P hoto: Outfits from Josiah Chua, shoes from DEPRESSION, Black Stone Ring, Stylist’s Own
Valerie Foo For advertising enquiries:
SPECIAL THANKS: ALESSANDRA CORY MARCELO WORLD-IN-THEATRE 6 DRUNK MEN LOMOGRAPHY SINGAPORE TOURISTPADS GAVIO
work and vision have helped shape M .O.D.A and allowed us to reach you today.
The community today faces challenges unlike any other; the unpredictable folly and terrifying pace of modern life weighs heavy on all our shoulders. Will we make it? Will we break it? As we mature, issue 01 celebrates the growing pains and the defiance through our expressions in art, design and fashion and pays tribute to those who have paved the way for us through their blood, sweat and tears.
advertise@modamagsg.com If you want to collaborate/ contribute/submit your work:
And it is in this spirit that i must give thanks to the lovely ms. Alessandra cory marcelo – her hard
contribute@modamagsg.com For any other enquiries or if you just want to say hi: general@ modamagsg.com
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FIDE COUTURE WEEK As fashion events go, there is none more watched than the haute couture shows. Traditionally shown in Paris, haute couture has crossed the great divide a second time and landed in Singapore, the only other place outside of Paris to show haute couture. This year’s event proved to be the grandest yet, 17 designers from across the world over the course of 6 days. Starting with Asia, with designers like Gou Pei from China, to Parisian designers like Yiqing Yin, Fide couture week brought in the most renowned couturiers from around the globe. It was a proud moment for Singapore, with Thomas Wee participating in the Special couture afternoon. Returning this year too was Christophe Josse, Gustavo Lins and Alexis Mabille. This was a week of high craftsmanship and technical precision showcase in its most intimate form. M.O.D.A will be featuring exclusive interviews held with the designers in our online and e-magazine in upcoming months. Keep your eyes peeled for the inside scoop! FIDE Couture Week showcased local and international designers during 27.11.2012 to 02.12.2012 at the Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Singapore. For more information, please visit www.fidefashionweeks.com or www.facebook.com/fidefashionweeks
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STYLE STOREY Tucked away in Tiong Bharu is a cute twoin-one pop-up fashion boutique gallery, sporting some serious style for men in Singapore. With a chilled vibe, First Storey serves up a carefully curated series of apparel, accessories and knick-knacks from no less than 16 of Singapore’s local labels. Entering into the three rooms of refined masculinity, what catches our eye are the large range of bags and totes in a salacious
selection of prints and sizes - perfect for stylishly carrying the necessities of the modern male. Be sure to check them out at 78 Guan Chuan Street 01-49, Tiong Bahru Estate between 1:00 pm - 8:30 pm on weekdays, or 12:00 pm - 8:30 pm on weekends before its closure on February 13 – do keep an eye on them online at: www.facebook.com/1ststorey
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Harpers Bazaar’S ION Orchard Calling all photographers… calling all photographers! The Harper’s BAZAAR & ION Orchard Photography Awards is back for 2013 and open to all photographers on the island. In addition to being featured in both the Singapore and International issues of Bazaar, the first prize includes an amazing exotic 5D/4N stay for two in the Spa Pool Villa at Hilton Shillim Estate Retreat & Spa, India (worth over S$6,000), a Balmain Watch Elegance (worth $1,400) AND a $2,000 ION Orchard shopping vouchers!!
SHOE GASMIC Fans of the local sneaker boutique Leftfoot rejoice! Provisions (aka P.V.S.) has set up shop in Orchard Cineleisure showcasing an eclectic and elegant collection of shoes and accessories ranging from well known labels such as G.H. Bass and Nike, to up and coming labels such as The Sak.
May! So start your creative juices flowing and get snappy! For a full set of competition details check out the January or send an email directly to bazaar@sph.com.sg with “Harper’s BAZAAR and ION Orchard Photography Awards 2013” as the title. Good luck and don’t miss out!!!!
Founders Anthony Ho and Kevin Low will make sure your trotters are well styled with their carefully curated fashion forward and vintage collections in store. What’s tickling our toes right now? The ever so dangerously death defying spikey heelless heels by Jeffrey Campbell! Be sure to get yourself a pair and pound down Orchard in these not-as-hard-to-walk-in-as-you’dthink super statement shoes - bitches better beware…
So how do you score a chance to win? It’s easy! All you have to do is submit three to five images along with 200-300 words describing how ION has inspired you to shoot a series that is “Uniquely Singapore”. How will you be able to catch that moment where Singapore’s heritage and culture meets fashion/lifestyle and arts? Will it be a fashion forward editorial with a touch of Kampong glam? It’s all up to you! BUT – you gotta get your entry in before 8th of
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P.V.S is located at 8 Grange Road #02-05 Cathay Cineleisure Orchard, Singapore, Singapore 239695 TEXT: AKITO
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ILLUMINE WHAT DETAILS A LITTLE MORE LIGHT SHOW Art Direction Styling
Aaron Han Aaron Han
Gold plated heart necklace by MANDY WU
Gold Mother-of-pearl Sunglasses by Sunday Somewhere Blue Braid Necklace with Bolt detail by Foreword Leather Harness with Gold Spike Detail by Mandy Wu
Mash-up Necklace by Mash-up Purple Braid Bracelet with Fluer de lis by Mandy Wu 3D Stainless Steel Necklace by Alister Yiap
Yellow Pocket watch by Fullspot Multi-colored Braid bracelet with Skull by A.k..a Way ward Teawood Round Frame Sunglasses & Printed Bandana (both by Waiting for The Sun)
FEATUREFASHION
I watch a lot of Japanese anime and ... elements are popular and ...used in street art, particularly in Japan. I am fascinated with Tokyo street youths and Streetwear. I am a fan of myths and legends. Stories that involve some kind of magic - something of another world - fantasy and weird creatures. Legends and myths might not be real but they make people think and question reality... fascinate and sometimes make one want to find out certain truths. It’s like a creative trigger catalyst it cause a reaction and in my clothing creating (sic) a visual impact.
TREADING NEW FASHION TERRITORY If appearances are outward expressions of internal truth, then we’re about to delve deep in search of ... what lies beneath. For the underbelly of fashion culture has a phenomenon brewing that’s as disorderly as it defies.
in the renewal of mankind during a catastrophic event. Fuelled by the concept of renewal and a new way of life, Josiah’s vision for his collection was to challenge preconceptions and the boundaries for menswear.
Two up-and-coming local labels Josiah Chua and Mash-Up, drive hard at this new aesthetic as they traverse cultures, subcultures, cross reference different eras in cohesive collections in their own striking ways.
In a twist of history they never taught in school, these futuristic Egyptian gods are reincarnated as modern-day ‘street gods’, transported right into the heart of Japan, living and breathing the culture of Harajuku. Their divinity has been resurrected, in all its opulent glory, bearing the iconic essence of ancient Egyptian royalty. Through the use of opposing elements and fabrics, unconventional silhouettes, and clashing hues, an OTT (Over-thetop) effect was achieved, with the unmistakable DIY aesthetic often seen in street art and fashion.
Evident in both labels is the element of subversion, of going against what is commonly acceptable and mainstream. ‘Mashups’ occur in a process of appropriation where that which was preexisting, gets creatively removed from its original context and joined with another, to take on new life and meaning in its own entirety.
Hi Josiah! Could you tell us a little bit more about
And with that, we explore two labels which have traversed various elements they have internalized, experimenting to find a unique translation in a postmodern world of a fashion where style, is relative. Josiah Chua is strong in referencing a speculated future phenomenon with his collection Revelation; shedding light on the ancient Egyptian’s belief
Your Revelation collection was a mashup of different cultures and subcultures resulting in Egyptian street gods being transported to modern-day Harajuku. There are so many influences involved! How did you make the connection to bring them all together into a cohesive collection? The collection started out with materials and fabrication, looking at iridescent films and gold leather. I decided to revolve my collection around the madness in Japanese street wear and the colour inspiration of the Ancient Egyptian ornaments and artifacts. It wasn’t easy mashing elements together but mixing and matching things came very natural to me. I love mixing opposing elements and during my research I found out that Rei Kawakubo from Comme Des Garcons has already been experimenting and mixing opposing fabrics, using unconventional materials in her collections, her works have been a huge inspiration to me.”
yourself? “I am an average Singaporean guy who loves art and fashion. I am very Singaporean in terms of food, I love my nasi lemaks, chwee kuehs and teh pengs. I am a fashion designer... I design clothing, crazy and experimental pieces at the moment, currently I am exploring the option of creating a commercial line. However, I would very much like to keep the madness and creativity in the designs.”
We’re noticing a certain trend emerging - designers are increasingly pulling their inspirations from a very wide spectrum - modern and ancient, mainstream culture and subcultures in a mashup where something completely new is born. What is driving this new kind of aesthetic?
We understand that you design in the hopes that your opinions about life are embodied through them - what were some of these opinions that you were trying to c onvey through your Revelation collection?
“I feel that things have changed in fashion and it’s all thanks to technology. We get information much quicker now with the internet and social media, and we’re be able to gain access to trends, styles, what is popular, who is wearing what; all at your fingertips. This have revolutionized the way fashion, clothing, trend, style is being consumed by the industry. People see a lot and they will be inspired by not just one thing, well, you can be inspired by just one thing but at this age, it is also crucial to be able to mix and introduce new elements into a singular idea/ inspiration/theme to create fresh new creations.”
“Revelation is like my thoughts about fashion and how youths are constantly searching for an identity. I was looking very much into Japanese street wear as well, the madness and comfort fashion can sometimes give, it empowers and sometimes gives one an identity in garment form and all this mashed together ... I don’t detest minimalism or designs with cleaner cuts. I love clean and crisp designs, however, I find it very natural for me to explode into a car crash of materials, details and textures. I am seriously, learning how to commercialize my ideas into a more toned down version of my more experimental and conceptual pieces.”
What other cultures/subcultures have influenced your lifestyle and your style? “Japanese Street culture and works of the 3 Big Japanese designers, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto
What fuels your penchant for street art and mysticism?
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the Haida people and their strong graphic artwork was so dynamic and inspiring for Totemania.
and Rei Kawakubo. I also feel that the way that I was brought up by my parents, the cartoons that I watch and the toys that I play with as a child shaped my character and style as a designer.”
From an American basketball team to the mythical city of Atlantis, how in the world did you guys make the connection to bring them together?
We heard that you’re going to be opening a pop-up store with a new collection soon! When and where will this be, and what are some things that we can be looking forward to from your new collection? “My collection will not be launched till further notice but do stay tuned! I am finding ways to keep the creativity, yet commercializing the madness into basic cuts and wearables. I started a pop-up store Rocket, located at *Scape Underground. My friends and I will be launching our collection at Rocket and stocking up on some interesting accessories and one-off clothing pieces before launching our own lines. Do pop by and give us some support!” Another local Singaporean label MASH-UP is dancing this eccentric offbeat streetwear style - the brainchild of three designers Daniela Monasterios Tan, Nathanael Ng and Shaf Amis’aabudin who draw inspiration from ethnic heritage and pop culture to cinematography is certainly daring as it is dashing. MASH-UP seeks to bring new meanings to old things, physically and metaphorically. Using old garments that had their own history and function, they give it the DIY or remix treatment, creating for it a new use and function. In a sense, nothing is wasted, and everything that exists can be mashed up in a continual process of recycled retro reinvention. “We use fashion as a vehicle of expression and as a way to share stories; our own as well as those from the world around us”, proclaim Daniela, Nathanael and Shaf. And indeed, their maiden collection Totemania, was inspired by the Native American culture of telling stories through totem poles, infused with a strong dose of pop culture of the 90’s. The resulting collection was one that was feisty, loud and with a wacky sense of humour. Since then, MASH-UP has moved onto Atlanta goes to Atlantis, their Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection; where an American basketball team suddenly finds themselves in the mythical, lost city of Atlantis. In what is promised as a healthy dose of imagination, urban legend and current youth
Things just happen! We were really inspired by the Seapunk phenomenon and at that time, the lost city of Atlantis. Also because of all the rap and hip hop we were listening to, we thought Atlanta was a funny pun on the theme of Atlantis and it tied in perfectly because we had a lot of sports elements. Probably watching Space Jam was another influence.
cultures is a collection that sees unexpected fabric mixes, cheeky prints and glittery denim. A strong underlying influence is the Seapunk movement in which cartoonish aquatic themes, rave culture and cheesy 90’s internet imagery are mashed up to create these trippy nautical images. Since Mash-Up is emphasized as a collective, what do each of you bring to the table that makes things work collectively? “Shaf is obviously the singer, Nat the dancer and Daniela the lyricist! Shaf was a textile design graduate so a lot of what he does is textile and production related, making designs come into reality. Nat does a lot of the sketching and technical drawing while Daniela takes care of conceptualizing, troubleshooting and the business planning. However, we interchange roles very often and when it comes down the manual stuff like embroidering and DIY, all three of us come together. We also select the collection and research together.” On your website, you mention that you are interested in bringing new meanings to old things, and therefore use old garments that already had their own history and function. Would you mind telling us, where these old garments come from? “Everywhere and anywhere! a lot of denim was donated from Nat’s church friends, some we get at thrift stores and some are ours. A lot of garments are given anonymously so we can only imagine what their story is.
Your latest collection Atlanta goes to Atlantis, is about ‘Exploring the possibility of urban life underwater’. We’re really interested to find out what are your conclusions after these explorations? “We’ve concluded that wearing things that are too baggy are a drag underwater :)”
Tell us, what is a typical day at the Mash-Up office like?
How did you discover seapunk, and why was it important enough that you’d wanna make reference to it in your collection?
There are no typical days in Mash-Up. Sometimes we are lugging heavy bags in the bus and train, some days we watch documentaries and movies, some days we march on under the sun sourcing for fabrics and trims, and some days we are even in the library!
“We were seeing it everywhere on Tumblr and with artists such as Azealia Banks calling herself a mermaid etc, we really could relate to the idea of creating something that isn’t real and just mashing up styles.”
Last question - After Totemania and Atlanta goes to Atlantis, what other wacky and cool mashups are in the pipeline that we can look out for? We are going to have a Space Zoo theme for our next collection - we’re definitely bringing colours back full on again!
What are your thoughts on fashion crossing over cultures and subcultures to tread uncharted territories? “I quote Dries Van Noten when he says that for a long time, fashion was just going super fast from theme to theme, now we are starting to re-visit old things and it is a great thing. Crossing over cultures and subcultures has always been so integral to fashion, it’s always going to be there.”
After speaking with both Josiah and the Mash-Up creatives, one can see that the only thing fashion clings fiercely on to is dynamism. Sure, stick around here long enough and the merry-go-round will come right back around. Inspiration lies at every corner, new elements sitting static waiting to be unearthed, and mashed together by deft hands. Indeed, a new vision is dawning amidst chaos, re sulting in what can only be described as madly exhilarating.
What are Mash-Up’s proudest achievements to date? “I think every time we see someone in our garments is a proud day for us, once a few friends texted us to tell us they had seen someone wear Mash-Up in a mall, another day, a friend started speaking to someone he didn’t know was wearing Mash-Up and they realized they both knew us. That’s the power of independent designers, it’s like a tribe!”
TEXT: AMANDA MOK
In Totemania, what was it about the Native American culture that made you decide that it was going to be a major influence in that collection?” Their visual culture was super strong, just by looking at a totem pole, they could ‘read’ the symbols and be able to tell the family’s history. Also, the tribalism of
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GIRLS Neon vests and yellwo boots? Snore-bore-galore. We’re serving up a dish of hot construction couture with a side of industrial realness for all the hardworking girls out there. Hard hats are not a necessary accessory.
on BAYAN CULT OF NINE camo tee GRANNY’S DAY OUT vertical stripes high wasted shorts JEFFERY CAMPBELL black wedged shoes ST YLISTS OWN scarf, shades & belt on ALEX ANDRA ROBERT PIQUERAS at NIGHT VISION printed queen of england top MOONSPOON SALOON platform shoes CULT OF NINE knapsack ST YLISTS OWN front slit leggings
Photography Styling Makeup & Hair Models Dog Dog Handler
Nathalie Thery Nathanael Ng Ilyazid Ilias Alexandra and Bayan (Kauan) Latte Harresh K.
DANIEL PALILO at NIGHTVISION oversized jersey 20:TWOTHREE biker shorts MOONSPOON SALOON platform shoes MASH - UP earrings GRANNYS DAY OUT necklace
on BAYAN YESAH floral prints vest and shorts CULT OF NINE black mesh top MISHK A hat
on ALEX ANDRA BL ACKHEART at BL ACKMARKET jacket and mini shorts BERNHARD WILLHELM at NIGHT VISION printed tee
DANIEL PALILO at NIGHT VISION knitted pullover GRANNYS DAY OUT all accessories
BL ACKHEART at BL ACKMARKET laced leotard CULT OF NINE t-shirt YESAH denim high waisted shorts MASH - UP chain harness JEFFERY CAMPBELLS spiked lita’s
JOYRICH at NIGHTVISION varsity jacket with faux leopard fur PROUDRACE at BLACKMARKET body-con “virgin” singlet MASH - UP necklace RAEN shades STYLISTS OWN rings
on BAYAN JOYRIICH at NIGHT VISION smiley face printed tee SUPER R at YESAH checkered pants GRANNY’s DAY OUT necklace 20:T WOTHREE wrist cuff ST YLISTS OWN shoes and shades
on ALEX ANDRA 20:T WOTHREE wrist cuff JOYRIICH at NIGHT VISION checkered shirt SUPER R at YESAH checkered vest MASH - UP denim skirt MOONSPOON SALOON platform shoes
HIGHLIGHTFASHION
BLOOD SWEAT & INK Painting with needles on a canvas with a pulse – the art of tattooing have been around for a very long time. From its beginnings as a rite of passage or means of protection amongst tribes the Philippines, to the marking and punishment of criminals in Japan - the sub-dermal art form is evolving and not the straight forward or can-I-hide-this-under-my-clothes decision it once was.
The places where people can get inked have also changed - the first being tattoo parlours such as Ink by Finch a dedicated space for resident artists, patrons and enthusiasts - aptly equipped art studios such as the one woman show at Tarita Aurora’s workshop - to establishments eminating old Hollywood glamour where Bespoke tattoos has set up shop for both resident and international guest artists at the Hounds of the Baskervilles. Pain is another factor to consider, with larger artworks taking more time to complete. However most enthusiasts focus on the gratification in seeing “a part of you on the outside representing how you feel on the inside - it’s a rush. There won’t be anything like it if you’ve taken the time to design it.” Word of mouth and dedicated tattoo publications are good ways of assessing the skill of an artist, but now a days people are just one click away from viewing the artists’ work and determine who to work with on “what I want next. Can they work with colour? Can they do shading? Do they do realistic tattoos? What is their portfolio?” However the proof is in the prodding to see the skill of the artists and those who have already been inked are more than enthusiastic to share the sensation with those of us who remain virgin to the needle. Although they may be clasically and technically trained, most artists feel that the transition to skin comes with “factors like how they will react to the needle, how much pain they can take and how much they trust you.” Indeed, one of the most intimate of mediums any artist could work with. Where detailing can take up to six months to complete with various stages of the tattoo needing time to heal, the feeling that someone is painting under your skin, and the sense of elation during the process - this sort of commitment and connection is still probably the number one factor on how any design will blossom.
No longer are people limited to just getting tattoos just on their arms and legs – the attitudes of individuals, experience of artists and developments in technology resulting in more hygienic and colourful designs, continue to push tattooing forward.
Best said by Tarita Aurora, the process is “a deep-seeded thing. The energy behind it is ancient and spiritual. It’s an artwork that you carry with you, theoretically, until you die.” TEXT: AKITO
Although tribal and oriental designs remain popular, an explosion of options are now available. Although getting a tattoo from ones “armpit to his knee” or in the inside of ean ear can be seen as some as a little strange - individuals such as Rick Genest better known as Zombie Boy, and more recently with the art of eyeball tattoo artistry, pushing the boundaries of where this itch needs to be scratched.
CREDITS Joe Finch -Ink by Finch - Singapore - (http://www.inkbyfinch.info/) Feroze McLeod - Hounds of the Baskervilles Singapore - (https://www.facebook.com/HoundsOfTheBaskervilles) Tarita Aurora - Freelance Artist - Indonesia - http://paint-splattered.tumblr.com/
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SELF BEAUTILATIOAN The once distinctive line between style and surgery was always drawn as a hard line... then a dotted line… and a couple of arrows onto the skin of prospective cosmetic surgery patients. However these days, the line continues to blur as artists and enthusiasts submit themselves for new ways to embrace an old practice. One contemporary jewellery exhibition in Hong Kong questioned this boundary head on – simply entitled “Mmmmm…”, Artists Tricia Tang and curator Aidan Li put together a show which paired five contemporary artists with nine contemporary jewellers to create unwearable jewellery. Tang’s own work in the collection uses the geometric pattern of gemstone cuts engraved into traditional Chinese ink chops, which are normally used as a means to sign documents. These can be stamped directly onto the skin to form “jewellery” however, some don’t just stop here. Another fashion trend which is picking up ventures under the skin; bagelling and also subdermal implants push cosmetic enhancements into new territories. In Japan, bagelling (or “bagel head” as it’s better known as) is a temporary modification where saline is injected under the skin to form a small swelling which is then indented with a thumb. Although this is deemed safe as it is only using salt water, there are risks associated with infections and unnecessary
stretching of the skin (heaven forbid!). BUT for those who are looking for more permanent statement than what bagelling and Tricia Tang’s gemstone chops can offer, one can look into subdermal and transdermal implants – a type of body jewellery where silicone implants are placed under or just under the skin forming raised designs to both amazing and terrifying effects. Just to clarify, subdermal implants are those which are completely buried under the skin – and transdermal implants are those which are under the skin, but also protrude outside of the skin! Ouch!! As word of caution, any of the above procedures should be performed by trained professionals only; any DIY attempts are highly discouraged and can leave you with severe health and cosmetic complications. And as much as I am interested / fascinated / astonished at what people will do for the pursuit of beauty, for this surgery fearing writer – Tricia Tang; you’ll be the only one on my speed dial! “Mmmmm…” will be showing from January 24 to February 5, 2013 at the Gaffa Gallery – 281 Clarence Street Sydney.
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For more details please visit mmmmmexhibition.net. TEXT: AKITO
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70 Stamford Road Li Ka Shing Library Building #B1-42 Singapore Management University S178901 www.artfront.com.sg tel: +65 6337 9738
email: info@artfront.com.sg 033 fax: +65 63364078
INCONVENIENT IDEALS
Can I wear my hair this way? Do I need to tone this down? You mean its too much - but I think its too little. Why blend in; when you can stand out? So please excuse me. Excuse my beauty.
Photography Model Makeup Makeover Hair Styling
Gladys Ng Mariana Idzkowska Mich Mark Cheng Azawi David
Red Coat by MA X.TAN
ideals Shoulder Necklace by FOREWORD, PARCO NEXT NEXT
Blouse Yellow Choutte Print by JARDIN DE CHOUETTE, CODA Co. Skirt by MAY AZRIA, CODA Co. Silver Braided Clutch by DESTI SAINT, SOLE2SOLE
Jumpsuit Navy & Black by JARDIN DE CHOUETTE, CODA Co. Book Clutch by LULU, SOLE2SOLE. Shoes by UNITED NUDE, SOLE2SOLE.
Mash Jacket Pink by K A AL E SUKTAE, CODA Co. Skirt by MAY AZRIA, CODA Co.
Circle Shirt in Silver by DEPRESSION, DEPRESSION Wrapped around pants in silver by DEPRESSION, DEPRESSION Studded Heart necklace in blue by DEPRESSION, DEPRESSION Shoes in Gold Glitter by LUCY CHOI, SOLE2SOLE
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GENT LY GROOM ED
Lets just say... MISSION ACCOMPLISHED (two in fact)! The Impossible Project continues to bring instant photography to life with its new film type for the PX 70 and PX680 range of cameras. Utilizing chemicals that have been upgraded, the results are favourable with more dynamic colours with the injection of a vintage vibe. The light sensitivity of the film also progresses although protection of the print against the sun is still recommended to prevent overexposure. The Impossible Project has also gone ahead to release the work of its second collaboration with cult brand NIGO after its triumph with the first issue. This edition features the A Bathing Ape icon as an abrupt integration in its instant print, shot with the SX 70, to create art that should not be taken so seriously.
The marriage of local barber, Heist and letterpress experts from The Gentlemen’s Press is a gentleman’s dream. With a passion and focus on quality products and craftsmanship, the two have come together to create a baby that is a grooming kit for men. Dubbed The Anatomy of a Gentleman, the kit carries the basic grooming essentials of hair pomade (35ml), aftershave cologne (35ml) and a pocket comb all packed in a neat handcrafted wooden box. This labour of love is only limited to fifty sets, so a mad rush of snatching it up should be in place... in a gentlemanly way of course.
Available at The Impossible Project Partner Store right above Peek! (36 Armenian Street, #01-04/02-04, Singapore 179934) and Thirtysix (91 Bencoolen Street, Sunshine Plaza, #01-32, Singapore 189652).
MISSION IMPOSSIBLE
Available at Heist (http://heist.com.sg/ thevaultIII/), The Gentlemen’s Press (http://the- gentlemens-press.myshopify. com/) and Etsy (http://www.etsy. com/?ref=so_home)
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NATIONAL PRIDE Most Singaporeans are proud of their country but are they proud of their artists? Chan Hampe Galleries is an absolute fan and they are proud to present CRISIS OF MONUMENTALITY: Made/ Remade/ Unmade. Inspired by a European avantgarde art movement attacking monuments that were physical or symbolic of political and religious control and power over the masses but manifested into a revelation of hidden monuments in modern architecture, the group show comprises of local artists Boo Sze Yang, Tang Ling Nah and Tay Bak Chiang. Curated by Seng Yu Jin, the artists showcase a diverse range of mediums including painting, charcoal and Chinese ink to present a fascinating interpretation of a Western movement in various social and cultural contexts as Asian artists. Constantly in search for more local talent, the gallery also made an open call to emerging Singapore artists for artwork installations in a show they call: (Re)Claim Singapore! With an esteemed panel of judges, the show features six handpicked budding local artists and their response to the unique social, historical, and cultural significance of Raffles Hotel and the Bras Basah Cultural District with the constant change that Singapore’s landscape faces. Help champion the next generation of local visual artists by heading down to the gallery to appreciate these works of art. CRISIS OF MONUMENTALITY: Made/ Remade/ Unmade: 18.01.2013 – 17.02.2013 (Re)Claim Singapore: 12.2012 – 02.2013 Available at Chan Hampe Galleries (Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road, Singapore 189673)
Opening Ceremony As the gateway to the East and the West, it is only natural for this little red dot to have a bustling art scene especially in recent years. With this knowledge, it was with little wonder that the Galeries Bartoux Group, a family run business managed by Robert and Isabelle Bartoux, decided that they would open their first Asian art gallery, Galeries Bartoux Singapore, right here in this proud little nation. With an immense passion for and a tremendous experience for visual art, they hope to present fresh insights and perspectives on contemporary and modern creations. Their lineup of artwork is vast and impressive, heralding in work from the likes of Andy Warhol, DALI, Roy Lichtenstein and Pablo Picasso of whom we are very familiar with. Having opened it doors on 01.12.2012, all art enthusiasts now have the chance to get up close and personal with the works of artists that inspire them and maybe a fairy Godmother will grant them the means to even bring one home with them. Available at Galeries Bartoux Singapore (ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #01-12A/13, Singapore 238801) TEXT: GABRIEL TAN
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mythical creatures
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INTERVIEW
THE CULTURE OF DISORDER “Bold. Exaggerated. Crazy”, Nicholas Leong is unrestrained when describing his works of art with strong and loud words. It feels a little ironic especially since he seemed reserved, maybe a little shy and kept mostly to himself, I would have never really guessed that his art would be so outspoken. Like the true artist that he is, Nicholas is constantly affected by his environment and enjoys adding an element of humour to life by indulging in “just things that amuse” him. He elaborates how it “could be a television program, people on the streets, friends or daily life” but what is fascinating is his thought process that gradually evolves till the final work is complete. He plays with a word in his head, trying to connect imagery and meaning to it. Progressively, he continues to throw them around, bouncing ideas back and forth until they become something he can draw. That being said, he had to challenge himself to interpret the theme of M.O.D.A’s current issue - Art Defies: The Culture of Disorder. He admits it took him a little while to digest it because of its vague nature that created a wide scope for exploration. By the time he figured it out, he had made a personal connection to what he believed was “a culture of crazy mental disorder where individuals tend to let go a little bit (or all) of their delirious side because the margin between what is deranged and what makes sense is really quite narrow. However, it is this gap that actually allows them to express themselves accurately as who or what they really are and that is how the art we then create constantly defies its own definition”.
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Still new to the industry, Nicholas continues to strive to put his work out there and working with Kult was an interesting experience for him. Kult is a multi-disciplinary group based in Singapore, whose international team divides their time across social, commercial and outreach projects. They work primarily with the creative types both in Singapore and abroad, connecting designers and artists, like Nicholas, to gain more exposure through their networks and gallery space. He certainly enjoyed working with them because “it was quite cool to have artists illustrate their interpretation of a theme”.
The eventual result was a translation into “clowns and mimes, ding and artsy things to add a little circus theme to it. Clowns are after all “a symbol of funny and scary all at the same time”. They are the epitome of what Nicholas had been contemplating on and he feels that is “how all artists should be; dwelling on that fine line of crazy and pushing boundaries to create art that is innovative and provokes thought from people who set their eyes upon it”. The young budding artist credits his parents and loved ones as his pillars of support and is grateful that they understand the alternative path in life that he has chosen even if it is not easy to sustain with the instability that comes along. He mentions in jest how it is “not everyday that your father gives you permission to spray paint the exterior wall of your house and the driveway while your mother’s Instagram feed is full of your works”. Even his girlfriend is a psychic, who got him the exact color of Copic markers he needed and helps him order materials he needs when it comes to shopping online. He does of course have like-minded friends who share his passion for the arts and are always brimming with ideas. Collaboration seems to be an integral part of Nicholas’ work as he and his friends feed of one another’s energies to create magic. In fact, his proudest work to date was a joint effort with a friend. Titled “Food Fight”, the concept of the mural is basically a play of words depicting a battle between the drunken prawn and a spaghetti monster.
Nicholas admits he does not really have any role models in the world of art but he has taken on social media to stay involved with it. He is unafraid to add artists he admires as friends on Facebook because that is how he “keeps up with their work” as he browses through his home feed daily. Technically, he immerses himself into works that experiment with various mediums so that he can slowly discover his own style, a trait of some artists that he highly respects. However, more so than that, Nicholas believes strongly in the ethics of artists, especially those who work hard and stay humble. With such strong convictions, definitive creative talent, an open mind for experimentation and feet firmly grounded, Nicholas is on the cusp to becoming one of the next pioneers in the world of modern illustration. TEXT: GABRIEL TAN
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SPECIAL
THE ART OF POLITICS
Political cartoons are a visual expression - a tool wielded by an artist to communicate social or political propaganda. While they may or may not be considered offensive, they are without a doubt entertaining. With roots entrenched in Western culture, it is widely considered to be an important aspect of modern art. These cartoons grace pages in magazines and newspapers alike, and sometimes exist as stand alone copies in a a bookstore. Notable political cartoonists include British street artist Banksy, whose works have been reproduced on walls, streets, and buildings worldwide; and Scott Adams, brains behind Dilbert. With a strong emphasis on both content and artistry, political cartoons are created then accentuated; a social political reflection from the mind of its creator. Often, it carries one message, with interpretation and poignancy falling squarely on the shoulders of its readers. The flip side however, is how the humor and its message could be lost without a proper understanding of the situations and context to which it depicts. In a largely western dominated vocation, a political cartoonist is doing Asia proud with his pronounced humor and refined sketches.
celebrated artist who works with print house The Strait Times of Singapore, has provided a fresh spin to politics with his cartoons; wit, sass, punch intact. Considering how the peninsula does not tolerate acidic political commentaries in its media, Miel’s contributions are a breath of fresh air. He first attracted public recognition with his works in Jingle Magazine and later, under the tutellage of Nonoy Marcelo, excelled in his craft. In Singapore, Miel toned his cynicism to hone his aptitude in political cartoon. His works are esteemed by a worldwide coalition, Cartoonists and Writers Syndicate (CWS). “The cartoons that I do for CWS are for my own satisfaction, my lust to experiment and dwell on topics otherwise neglected in its treatment in the local (Singaporean) press”. A very brave statement, but one that is undoubtedly essential in balancing the socio- political equation of this rapidly growing society. With many artists in the region already having experienced censorship or worse, Miel is one artist we have our sights fixed on as this art form continues to push the boundary between voice and silence. TEXT: LIJUAN YEO
Deng Coy Miel, past winner of the National Cartoonist Society Newspaper Illustration Award, is a Filipino taking residence in Singapore. This
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HIGHLIGHT
THE BARE NECESSITIES New Year’s day in 1994 was ushered in with the flash of buttocks and trimming of pubic hair, in the small Art Space at Parkway Parade Shopping Centre. If Josef Ng, the original performer of Brother Cane, wanted to test the boundaries of nudity in performance art as part of his New Year’s resolutions, he certainly accomplished it at the Artists General Assembly arts festival that year. The performance did not sit well with the mainstream media of Singapore and quick to the table was the media’s playing of the Asian Values card with their rejection of nudity in Performance Art. Nudity was viewed as having no place in a conservative society, with arts groups like the National Arts Council calling it “vulgar and completely distasteful”. The case for nudity today, however, sings a different song with gradual relaxations of censorship laws over the years (the Performance Art ban was lifted in 2004). Despite being allowed in practice today, nudity within the art form totters along the fine line between being a necessary component of a visceral, engaging artwork, and
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However allowances of such alternate forms of expression are being guided by the increasingly modernized mindsets of modern Asia. Long have we transited from the days of stereotyped orientalism; having been imbued with a cosmopolitan lifestyle – with a notable maturing acceptance of alternate art forms containing nudity.
a bare backed disaster. It is perhaps especially in the internal tug-of-war that 21st century Asia embodies, holding onto conservative values of modesty while adapting to the open-mindedness of our contemporary society, which puts the necessity for nudity in question. Nudity in Performance Art is by no means a recent development - pioneers such as Carolee Schneemann have paved the way with her use of nudity in the piece Interior Scroll; where a scroll tucked in her vagina is removed and read, creates a visually impactful example of Performance Art. This freedom in performance, borne from the oftunrehearsed nature of this genre, grants the artist a license for subversion that when used irresponsibly, can be offensive.
Performance Art and nudity within the genre is not banned in Singapore. In fact, Brother Cane’s 2012 restaging in the M1 Fringe Festival, received the all-clear from the Media Development Authority and the National Arts Council. “Nudity is allowed and tolerated on stage, and has been for some years already,” assured Alvin Tan, Co-Artistic Director of the annual festival.
It is easy to pin point why most Asian cultures would shy away or even frown on such displays of artistic expression. (Bubblegum ban ring a bell, anyone?) Let’s face it – most Asian countries tend not to accept such risqué expressions as our Western counterparts; boob and boner must be well dressed under garments.
The re-staging of 1994’s Brother Cane by Loo Zihan (whose performance can be accessed online: http://vimeo.com/37993908) proves the point that legislation on Performance Art has relaxed since the 90’s. Loo clarifies that “all scripts for performances have to be submitted for vetting and licensing.” The said script, which involved a scene with Loo in the buff, received its license from the MDA. During the 90 minute performance, Loo strips and re-enacts
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a performed choreography. These photos are in turn layered upon each other resulting in sculptural forms ranging from a bird-humanoid hybrid Harpy’s, to an indistinguishable pattern of concentric swirls, in a beautiful disfigurement of the human form. Any sign of torso, face or phallus is lost in a fluid motion of taupe and tans. “I tried to capture the beauty of both the human body’s figure and its motion”, states Maruyama on his website’s statement on the series. Nudity, as insisted by the Japanese photographer, is vital to his thematic concern of anatomical beauty expressed through dance. It is merely a tool to convey the artwork’s message. Fact: Nudity for the sake of nudity is a no-go; but even with legitimate uses for it to express certain messages, coupled with relaxation of censorship rules, the stigma of its use remains. The audience chooses to interpret what they experience, and should this surmount to one’s indignation, however the onus lies with the artist who must accept the reality that though art is free for all to take away what they want to, differences in perception may inspire differences in reception. Nudity is a choice the artist must make in considering both sides of the equation, especially in an Asian society, where consequences and backlash may arise.
the motions of his 2011 staging of the same performance in Chicago screened on a projector, sans haircut.
The compliance to allow nudity in Art by no means suggests that we are neglecting conservatisms of modesty or heritage, but rather broadening our views on expression and allowing us to adapt to the changing face of art in Asia. Maybe the time has come for other artists to broaden the mindscape of Asian Art - Spencer Tunick; can you hear us?
The key lies in its manner of usage. Tan tells us that “if ...nudity (sic)... makes a statement and is essential to the work, it is fully justified.” Ultimately, the bare body should be viewed as a symbol in the artwork, which contributes towards the artist’s main vision. Ultimately, when presenting nudity in any art form, one must question the relevance of its use. Nudity without an overall thematic significance to the performance - it should not be nudity for the sake of nudity.
TEXT: MATT J FAM
Another artist Shinichi Maruyama adopts this meaning - by creating a series of photographs centered on the human anatomy in motion. At first glance, these works do not hint at nudity save for a bare leg, which peeps through the smudged conglomeration of swirls, in what almost seems abstract. Maruyama achieves this effect through the 10,000 shots taken in rapid succession during
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SANS SOLEIL
What was fashionable today, may be dead by tomorrow. What is “in” is only ever the result of our collective perception. Sans Soleil shows the idea of now - “As we know that time is always time, and place is always and only place. But what is actual is actual only for one time, and only one place.” Photography Hair & Makeup Stylists
Hiu Zhi Wei Airin Lee Reyme Husaini & Gabriel Tan
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HIGHLIGHT
ILLICIT ART How far would you go to create works of art? What would you dare to do? What is the cost? If you step into the home of Bryan Lewis Saunders, you’d probably notice a series of vibrant quirky selfportraits - but think not much further. The American artist has been creating these self-portraits on a daily basis since 1995 – but what sets him apart from other arists, is that he only produces these while under the influence. He uses a range of substances ranging from prescribed drugs like Xanax, to illegal drugs such as marijuana, cocaine, and even to some household items such as bath salts (to name a few). Globally, it is a known crime to consume or deal with such illegal drugs which is punishable by capital punishment and an instant criminal record - and it is very clear that the Asian authorities are gravely stringent on such offences. This, however, did not deter Saunders from experimenting with different drugs during his creative process resulting in some dark, as well as some spectacular pieces of work being produced.
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a sometimes semi-conscious sea of material for his books as well as the very poignant art of stand up tradegy. Hash Psilocybin Mushrooms All of the self-portraits reveal different sides of Saunders, depending on the kind of influence he was on under the time. When he took Hash, a less potent form of marijuana that invokes relaxation and heightened senses, he ended up producing a colourful trippy selfportrait with crayons. He achieved a similar outcome with Psilocybin Mushrooms (2 caps onset) where his self-portrait depicted excitement through the huge grin he is wearing and the use of bold colours. ‘Real’ Absinth
Bath Salts However, it’s not always sunshine and rainbows for the 42-year-old artist where hints of a darkness within while under the influence have been exemplified in his works. This is clearly reflected in “real ‘Absinth’”, where a charcoal drawing with smudges below his eyes that can be viewed as tears, suggesting sadness was resultant. Apart from that, a monochromatic self-portrait that consists of pen jabs was created when he experiemented with bath salts. According to an interview with huffingtonpost.com, he stated that bath salts induced a “real vicious angst” in him and that he would “never ever do it again”.
At this point in time, Saunders has drawn over 8,000 of such self-portraits and possibly consumed almost every drug there is out there – all in the name of art. Although interesting in its own right, such experimentation has not been without a high cost. From a professional veiwpoint, some within the community have suggested that this may just be a desparate cry for attention - where as others have viewed the works as a unique insight into his creative psyche and a dangerous method to which it is tapped into. On his website, he stated that he eventually became “lethargic and suffered mild brain damage” due to this
experiment. To ease the potential negative side effects, he now only takes drugs that “are given” to him and is conducting this experiment over greater intervals.
Honey Butane Oil
Let us be clear on one thing though: we do not condone the use of substances - illicit or otherwise - in tapping into “creative” juices. The effects of such use and abuse can be detrimental to both your self and your loved ones. The series of works however, do provide a unique insight into the inner workings while on such substances and definately asks the question of how far one would go for arts’ sake.
A striking self-portrait that caught my attention is the one he created while under the influence of Honey Butane Oil. Derived from cannabis, this oil resembles honey in terms of colour and texture. Its effects are similar to that of cannabis – a state of relaxation and bliss. I believe that this particular self-portrait vividly captures the euphoric feelings Saunders was experiencing after consuming the drug. He drew himself with closed eyes and a peaceful smile dancing on his lips, giving the impression that he has reached nirvana with simple morse coded messages being transmitted from his cerebral cortex. This suggests that he feels powerful and in control of his thoughts and happiness. I feel that this selfportrait is aesthetically pleasing due to the use of colours, as well as Saunders’ peaceful expression.
TEXT: VALERIE FOO
In addition to paintings, Saunders has also documented his experiment and tapped into
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