HIMALAYAN HIDEAWAY

ANEW PILGRIMAGE TRAIL IS SET TO MAKE THIS MOUNTAIN KINGDOM EVEN MORE MAGICAL,SAYS SARAH MARSHALL

It’s hard not to smile in one of the world’s most mystifying and charismatic countries, autopian mountain kingdom where GDP has been ditched in favour of Gross National Happiness as ameasure for charting the country’s development.

First open to tourists in 1974, Bhutan is ahidden Himalayan Kingdom –which sits between India and China –and hasattracted asteady stream of curious visitors intrigued by the country’s strong spiritual beliefs, social cohesion and fondness for outlandish, folkloric tales.

Now there’s even more reason to explore Bhutan’s steep mountains and deep valleys, with the launch of anew pilgrimage trail.

Apathway to greatness

Once used by Himalayan traders and garps (royal messengers) in the 16th century,a network of trails connectedthe country from east to west, providing a means of communication which played an important role in the unification of Bhutan in 1907.Whenroads arrived in the 1960s, these trails fell out of use. But an ambitious project instigated by Bhutan’s King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck –also akeen hiker –has been undertaken to repair and restore these historic routes.

“I think this may be the greatest, long-distance trail in the world,” says Sam Blyth,co-founder and chair of charity the Bhutan Canada Foundation, who worked alongside the Royal Bhutanese Government and the Tourism Council of Bhutan to complete the new 403km Trans Bhutan trail.

When we meet at theKhang Residency hotel in Bhutan’s surprisingly modern capital Thimphu,Sam speaks enthusiastically about an ancient network ofpathways he’d heard about 40 years ago and always dreamed of walking.

“There’s not another country in the world where you could build a400km trail in three years,” he enthuses, praising the 1,000-strong team of Bhutanese DeSuung members (a voluntary organisation empowering unemployed people to become guardians of the peace) who “hand-cut 10,000 stone steps and built 18 bridges”.

Retracing history

It would take around 30 days to do the full trail, but tour operator GAdventures has condensed some of the best sections into an escorted group tour led by Dorji Bidha, one of Bhutan’s few female guides.

“My grandparents meteach other crossing these valleys,” says the petite 32-year-old, who has temporarily swapped her national dress of akira (a wraparound robe) for hiking gear andamachete slung loosely around her waist. “My grandfather would bring meat, cheese and butter to barter for rice.”

Our first 13km trekbegins 3,000 metres above sea level at theDochula Pass, an historic crossroads where 108 memorial stones –knownaschortens –commemorate soldiers killed in a2003 conflict with Indian insurgents.

Downhill all the way,Istep over thick carpets of moss sprouting with mushrooms and wander through tunnels of twisted hemlock trees draped in garlands of lichens. Dressed in orange boiler suits, volunteers from the DeSuung are pulling back branches to keep paths clear –ajob, Isuspect, which will keep them busy for some time.

Almost 70% of Bhutan is covered in forest, providing ahaven for Bengal tigers, black bears and takins (an oddly put together animal resembling an antelope and agoat). In abrave move, authorities recently introduced acontroversial daily tourism levy of $200USD per person to bolster sustainable development. The only country in the world to confidently declare itself carbon negative, it’s aplace where nature remains apriority

Throughout our week of treks, the only dangerous creatures we encounter are needle-thin leeches who have atalent for wriggling into my hiking boots. But storiesof flying monks and cannibalistic demonesses are enough to keep dreams dramatic during anight spent camping on valley slopes, metres away from agushing river swollen with monsoon rain.

Although endless stretches of fairy-tale scenery are abig selling point for the Trans Bhutan trail, community encounters and an opportunity to learn about myths and legends is justas important. Iexchangesmiles with elderly women spinning prayer wheels outside temples, sharelunch with afamily sat cross-legged in afarmhouse, and receive ablessing atashrineset below aweeping cypress tree in theplayground of aremote primary school.

Atempleinthe sky

Several temples and dzongs can be found along the Trans-Bhutan trail, but one of the country’s most iconic religious sites requires asmall, worthwhile detour Carved into asheer rockface overlooking Paro, the Tiger’s Nest monastery is an architectural marvel and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Within easy reachofParo airport, it’s atrip Imanage to squeeze in before making the long journey home.

Winding through forests where hydro-powered prayer wheels chime and prayer flags flutter in thebreeze, we climb steep pathways andhundreds of steps to reach the complex. Wrapped in maroon robes, young monks scurrybetween prayer rooms, disappearing into wafts of incense smoke. Farfrom theroar of trafficand hum of mobile ringtones, they practisetraditions cherished for hundreds of years.

In the five centuries since trails were first built in Bhutan, the country has changed dramatically,but there’s still a deep respect for the past. In decades to come, I’ve no doubt valleys will still be smothered in forests, and candles will continue to burn in precipitous temples.

Factfile

GAdventures(gadventures.com; 0207313 6953)offersan11-day escortedCampthe TransBhutanTrail itineraryfor £3,449pp, including amixture of camping, hotels andhomestays,and thedaily Sustainable Developmentfee.Internationalflights extra.