FACE MASSAGE: MYTH OR MARVEL?

EXPERTS WEIGH IN ON THE TREND THAT’S SAID TO DELAYWRINKLES AND FIRM FACIAL MUSCLES

Alongside the rise of ‘skintellectuals’, with their carefully curated skincare collections and endless thirst for beauty knowledge, in the past few years there’s been a huge trend for DIY face massagetechniques.

Devotees –who include celebrities such as Goop guru Gwyneth Paltrow,model Miranda Kerr andsinger Lizzo –claim that devices such as thegua sha (a flat,heart-shaped tool that originates in Chinese medicine), jade roller or ice globes, are the key to glowing skin and snatched contours.

Impressive before and after videos from facialists, show how gentle strokes with the fingertips can seemingly smooth away forehead lines, plump cheeks, and sharpen cheekbones.

But does face massage help in the long-run, or is it just atemporary fix?

What arethe benefits of facial massage?

“It absolutely makes adifference, not only to the skin but to your collagen functions and facial muscles,” says Inge Theron (below), founder of FaceGym (facegym.com), the skincare brand with 12 skin studios around the world, providing ‘workouts’ not facials.

Face massageworks by strengthening the fibroblasts in our skin, the cells responsible for collagen production, which have to be kept under tension to workat their optimal level.

“Asweage, our fibroblasts start to lose this tension, andtheir efficiency begins to decrease. By using facial massage techniques, you are stretching out these fibroblasts, effectively waking them up, and stimulating them to work on collagen production.”

Plus, it can help with natural skin functions, she says: “Increasing circulation, boosting the lymphatic system and releasing tension –all resulting in firmer,toned muscles, enhanced contours and alifted, radiant complexion.”

Can it eradicate wrinkles?

Others aren’t so convinced that massage will transform your looks.

“There’s limited research to show whether tools, such as agua sha, can change your face shape or remove fine lines and wrinkles,” says Salome Dharamshi, dermatologist and founder of Sky Clinic (skyclinic.co.uk).

“However,there are short-term benefits to these tools. They can minimise puffiness through cooling (ice rollers) and lymphatic drainage, boost circulation, and minimise pores and puffiness.”

Dr Ross Perry(right), medical director of Cosmedics skin clinics (cosmedics.co.uk), says there are

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both direct and indirect effects: “Feeling relaxed and allowing yourself to destress does wonders for the skin. Done correctly, facial massage can help with blood flow and circulation.”

But you can’t expect afew swipes with agua shatocounteract lots of late nights and not enough sleep, he continues: “Eating ahealthy diet, drinking plenty of water,avoiding alcohol and cigarettes, agood skin routine, and exercise will contribute to great-looking skin.”

What do you need to knowabout DIY face massage?

“Before any of these tools are used, you need to start with athoroughly cleansed face, and aserum or moisturiser,toensure theskin is moist,” says Perry, who suggests watching an online video, and copying the movements an expert uses.

Dharamshi recommends using afacialoil: “It is important not to drag the skin, or use too much pressure, as this canresult in minor bruising, bleeding or even burst blood vessels.”

Youdon’t have to spend hours slaving away in front of amirror,Perry adds: “If you have time to incorporate aface massage once aweekintoyour skin routine, then do so. It can be very relaxing.”

Theron recommends the little and often approach: “Even just afew minutes aday can offer big results. If you’re a beginner,start by trying out thehand movements from knuckling, to cheek hooks and eye lifts.”

Once you’ve mastered the basics, try using agua shaalongside ahydrating face oil. “This is your all-in-one tool, it helps define contours, release facial tension, de-puff,drain waterretention, and much more,” she says.

“My top tip is to keep it in the fridge, for additional cooling and soothing benefits.”