SPRING 2015
$12
ONLINE SHOPPING MEETS IN-STORE SERVICE A WHOLE NEW eTAIL EXPERIENCE AT WILKESBASHFORD.COM!
WHITE ON WHITE 5 WHITE-HOT LOOKS FOR SUMMER
UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLE
WELCOME
GREETINGS FROM TYLER & WILKES
INTRODUCING OUR EXCITING NEW OMNI-CHANNEL APPROACH TO SERVING YOU BETTER!
IN-STORE & ONLINE: DELIVERING ONE INTEGRATED EXPERIENCE Happy spring! We hope you’ve been enjoying and getting familiar with our new online shopping site. While it may look like we were a bit late to the e-tail party, we deliberately took our time in devising how to deliver an online experience that would match, fully integrate with and ultimately elevate the level of service for which our stores are known. Unlike most retailer/e-tailers, our unique business model is meant to be fully omni-channel, blending our inventory and services together into one singular shopping experience. For example, if you see something you like online, you can zap it to the same Style Advisor you work with in store for advice, and then order it online or reserve it at your favorite store. Across channels, our prices are the same, everyone has faster access to the same collective inventory, there is no competition, and you can buy in store or online at your whim. More details can be found later in this issue. We look forward to seeing you in store and at wilkesbashford.com. We hope you enjoy the added ease and service it is designed to provide! With Hugs,
Tyler Mitchell & Wilkes Bashford
CLICK & SHOP 24/7/365!
WILKESBASHFORD.COM
WESTPORT | GREENWICH | HUNTINGTON | SAN FRANCISCO | PALO ALTO
Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street
FEATURES
6 Online Shopping Meets In-Store Service 36 Book Review: Hug Your Customers, Again! 56 Introducing Mattia Cielo 58 Tyler vs. Wilkes 62 Jewelry Hues of Summer 66 Tribute: Fashion Legend Oscar de la Renta 78 Documentaries: Remembering the Artist 82 Brunello Cucinelli’s Cool School
San Francisco 415.986.4380
450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto 650.322.7080 RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Wilkes Bashford CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell-Namdar MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Tyler Mitchell EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
FASHION
20 Studies in Style 38 What’s New: Our Buyers’ Picks 44 Eloquent Elegance 55 Kicktionary: Defining Sneaker Trends 60 Fashion Muses Past & Present 68 ’70s Redux 70 White on White 83 Would You Pass the Modern Fit Test?
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
DEPARTMENTS
2 Welcome Letter 12 The List 76 Travel: Marlon Brando’s Secret Hideaway 80 World Scene 84 At Your Service
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES
FOR
ADVERTISERS
CLAIMS,
UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
WILKESBASHFORD.COM
ONLINE SHOPPING MEETS IN-STORE SERVICE SEVEN WAYS OUR NEW MULTICHANNEL SITE OFFERS A UNIQUELY INTEGRATED EXPERIENCE. In creating our new online shopping site, our objective was to offer user-friendly functions that would enhance and complement the service we offer in-store. To that end, we have created several proprietary features to offer a fully integrated and unprecedented in-store/online experience! Several of these custom features live in a section we call “WBWorld.” These include your account information, personal invitations and message box, virtual wardrobe, recommendations from your Style Advisors, alterations status and more. We encourage you to register in WBWorld to fully enjoy this highly personalized service. We hope you enjoy exploring our site and the added convenience and service it offers. As always, we welcome your input on how we can serve you better!
1. Log in & SET UP A WBWORLD ACCOUNT to enjoy a unique suite of custom services 24/7!
2. Enjoy access to the COLLECTIVE INVENTORY of our five stores plus our web inventory.
3. PRE-SHOP! If you like something online, you can RESERVE IN-STORE & we’ll hold it in your favorite store.
4. Within your WBWorld, your online VIRTUAL CLOSET enables you or your style advisor to see your wardrobe anywhere, anytime.
5. You can buy an item online & bring it into a store for FREE ALTERATIONS & check your alteration status online!
6. When you buy online you can RETURN ONLINE OR INSTORE. Whatever’s easiest!
and the pi`ece de rĂŠsistance...
7. You can work online or in-store with the same STYLE ADVISOR!
Select your store of choice and choose a Style Advisor.
If you have an occasion, email your Style Advisor what you’re looking for.
Email online selections to your Style Advisor for input before you buy.
Your Style Advisor can view your virtual closet to make recommendations. Receive curated lists in your WBWorld account with suggestions from your Style Advisor.
Purchase online or have your Style Advisor hold items at your favorite store!
THE LIST
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
49ERS NIGHT OUT An August evening at a private home in Atherton featured shopping and a Wilkes Bashford fashion show with the ladies of the 49ers as models. This event of friends, fashion and FUNdraising benefited educational programs and youth at the SF 49ers Academy in East Palo Alto. Guests mingled among the pop-up shops while enjoying culinary creations and creative cocktails.
Top: Wilkes Bashford pop-up shop Above and left: Wilkes Bashford’s Jeff Garelick welcomes the guests.
MoAD CELEBRATES
Friends, patrons and donors of The Museum of the African Diaspora celebrated the recent renovation of this nine-year-old institution while gathering at partner Wilkes Bashford for an evening of cocktails and conversation.
T H E H O U S E O F PA U L M O R E L L I
DESIGNED
CRAFTED IN AMERICA
THE LIST
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
WHAT AN ELEGANT & ARTISTIC DAY! San Francisco Magazine’s Jennifer Bronson, Wilkes Bashford, cocommentators Joy Bianchi and Sandy Ceppos
The gallery setting inspired the fashion and art synergy. Photos by Eddie Hernandez
San Francisco Magazine and Wilkes Bashford San Francisco hosted luncheon guests in an artistic setting at the nearby renowned Caldwell Snyder Gallery on Sutter Street. It was the opening of a new exhibit entitled A Few Days, A Lifetime by artist David Bromley. Friend and client of Wilkes, San Francisco’s fashion icon Joy Bianchi, co-commentated the latest trends with Sandy Ceppos of Mitchells Family of Stores. The sleek and modern environment added to the ambience created by tightly wrapped high-top luncheon tables and contemporary stools, and a cool lunch menu was served from Carrie Dove catering. Afterwards, guests were invited back to Wilkes Bashford to shop the women’s beautifully edited collections while sipping Champagne and nibbling on dessert. Exquisite High Camp boxes of live gardenias were given as parting gifts — the perfect reminder of an elegant day!
Live Life Beautifully
THE LIST
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
ANNUAL HILLSBOROUGH CLASSIC... LOVE! Event chairs Bettina Mirsepahi and Alexandra Caban
Models had fun presenting trends from Wilkes Bashford’s designer collections.
Fundraising for the Hillsborough School Foundation was the main objective at the annual Hillsborough Classic, highlighted by the Wilkes Bashford Fashion Show and luncheon. Fall 2014 fashion must-haves, designer collections and trends from the Wilkes Bashford Palo Alto and San Francisco stores were presented to the excited crowd. Teachers, school administrators and parents walked the runway with such confidence one would assume they were all professional models.
Superintendant of Hillsborough City School District, Anthony Ranii
THE LIST
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
“THE BASH” COCKTAIL At the San Francisco Townhouse, Wilkes Bashford and Tyler Mitchell decided to take hospitality one step further and create a signature cocktail, “The Bash.” Made with mostly Italian ingredients, this cocktail is in keeping with the mostly Italian heritage at Wilkes Bashford. Like your wardrobe, there is a different sip for every part of your day: morning, noon and night. This signature drink is offered three ways depending on the time of day — or your mood. We can’t give away our secret ingredients, but we invite you to come by and experience our in-house mixology experiment. By the way, we just had to make the cocktails orange!
Tyler Mitchell and Wilkes Bashford toast with three versions of the brand new “The Bash” cocktail. Looking forward to seeing which one you like the best!
Left to right: Enjoy “The Bash” three ways: Morning, Noon & Night.
SPRING 2015 TRUNK SHOWS 3/6 3/6-7 3/6-7 3/7 3/7-8 3/7-8 3/13-14 3/18-19 3/19-21 3/20-21 3/20-21
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF BRIONI SPRING TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF GRAVATI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA BRIONI SPRING TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA GRAVATI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI FALL TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF DANA KELLIN TRUNK SHOW & PERSONAL APPEARANCE . .PA KITON MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF BRUNELLO CUCINELLI FALL TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA DANA KELLIN TRUNK SHOW & PERSONAL APPEARANCE . . SF
FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS, PLEASE VISIT
3/27 3/28 3/28 4/1-2 4/10-11 4/11 4/17 4/17 4/18 4/23-26 4/25
PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF FINAMORE TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA MONIQUE LHUILLIER FALL TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF ISAIA SPRING TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF HAMILTON CUSTOM SHIRT TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF TEMPLE ST. CLAIR TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SF PAUL MORELLI TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA KITON MEN’S & WOMEN’S TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA POMELLATO TRUNK SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .PA
WILKESBASHFORD.COM
studies
{in}
STYLE
NA N CY G O N Z A L E Z
N A R CI S O R ODR I GUEZ
Exploring the Art & Prose of DRESSING WELL Art. Literature. Music. Architecture. Fashion. Isn’t it wonderful how all art forms dance together to inspire and enrich our lives? Here, we present a study of some of life and art’s greatest themes... set against a painter’s backdrop, enhanced by the powerful words of artists from varying disciplines. Join us as we explore how the artistic creations from our fashion designers’ studios intermingle with the themes of fellow artists, thinkers and dreamers.
STUDIES IN STYLE: Beauty | S.15
“Beauty of whatever kind, in its supreme development, invariably excites the sensitive soul to tears.” -Edgar Allan Poe, American Author & Poet
VALE NTI N O
STUDIES IN STYLE: Beauty | S.15
series
023
ORDER ONLINE@ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
BEA UTY VA LEN TI N O
{206} INSPIRATION:
COLOR FIELD WES GO RD O N
DE R E K L A M
ORDER ONLINE@ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
STUDIES IN STYLE: Color| S.15
{149} INSPIRATION:
PRINT MAKING
YIGA L A ZRO U Ë L
PAULE KA
LO RO P IA N A
series
STUDIES IN STYLE: Form | S.15
{023 }
FORM
“Art strives for form, and hopes for beauty.” -George Bellows, American Painter
ER MEN EG ILDO Z EGN A
ORDER ONLINE@ MITCHELLSTORES.COM FREEFREE SHIPPING ORDER ONLINE@ WILKESBASHFORD.COM SHIPPING
SYLVA & CI E
{109} INSPIRATION:
BLUE PERIOD
OSCAR HEYMAN
STUDIES IN STYLE: Blue Period | S.15
ORDER ONLINE @ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
B R I ON I
JIM MY C H O O
“There are dark shadows on the earth, but its lights are stronger in the contrast.�
series
CONT RAST
-Charles Dickens, English Writer & Social Critic
{023 }
STUDIES IN STYLE: Craftsmanship | S.15
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
ORDER ONLINE@ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
STUDIES IN STYLE: Color Field | S.15
{217} INSPIRATION:
B RU NE LLO CU CIN ELLI
COLOR FIELD
K IMBE RLY McD ON ALD
ORDER ONLINE @ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
STUDIES IN STYLE: Tonality | S.15
series
{0 5 2 }
TOD ’S
TONA LITY
book review
HUG YOUR CUSTOMER, AGAIN!
AND AGAIN! IN OUR TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN ERA, THE RE-RELEASE OF THIS 10-YEAR-OLD CLASSIC REINFORCES THE VALUE OF RELATIONSHIP SELLING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN but, in a very real sense, a manual for a more meaningful life. I reviewed the book when it first came out 10 years ago and find the new edition even more relevant and life-affirming. “The heart of the re-release is the same as the original but with a new preface and, ironically, a new take on technology, the very thing that many predicted would put specialty stores out of business,” says Jack. Since the book’s original publication, the Mitchells purchased two more iconic stores 3,000 miles across America during the worst recession of our time, and more recently launched a highly personalized interactive website that somehow manages to convey their culture of hugging through cyberspace. (Personalized selling on the internet? If anyone can do it, it’s the Mitchells!) The essence of the book is tough to sum up; it’s Jack’s wonderful anecdotes that bring it to life. Among my favorites: the time he opened the store on a Sunday just so a woman could buy her irate husband new underwear. (They were in the process of moving and she had inadvertently packed and shipped all his boxers…) It Jack Mitchell never set out to write a book. For that was a small sale but Jack was delighted to make it, theorizing matter, he never intended to be a retailer. With a that he might have saved a marriage! (Editor’s note: How did this stranger reach master’s degree in Asian studies and hoping to work the store owner on a Sunday? A family member’s for the U.S. embassy in China, he graduated personal phone number is always on the store’s just at a time when the U.S. and China broke answering machine after hours.) off relations. With zero demand for U.S. And the time when the CEO of a luxury cruise ambassadors in China and desperately needline was complaining to Jack about dinner attire ing a job, he halfheartedly went to work for on his ships: the women would show up looking his father’s small clothing store in Westport, glamorous and the men like slobs. To solve the Connecticut. problem, he and Jack came up with a program to About 10 years ago, he wrote a little book lend tuxedos to male passengers (and also offer on customer service, the hallmark of his on-board alterations) in order to raise the bar on family’s atypically successful apparel busidress code. The concept worked brilliantly ness. The inspiration for the book was an (despite the fact that they didn’t provide industry conference that predicted online footwear; guys would show up for dinners in retailing would soon put brick-and-mortar their elegant tuxes worn with brown boat shoes stores out of business. Jack was one of the or scuffed sneakers). Still, once seated, they speakers but didn’t buy into the premise: his looked great in the professional photos. The elefamily’s two apparel stores were among the vated mood among passengers jumpstarted most respected in the country, if not the sales in the casino and throughout the ship, as world. Yet their secret was neither high tech Giorgio Armani well as bookings for future cruises. nor profound: treat customers first as peoThinking out of the box, cooperation instead Chairman and CEO, The Armani Group ple, then as clients. Caring inspires loyalty of competition, creating a hugging culture, chalinspires increased sales. lenges not problems, the power of new: there’s much to learn from the new ediThe initial version of Hug Your Customers is in its 17th printing, selling well tion of this fabulous book. “I’ve added some fresh insights and new stories,” over 200,000 copies in North America and tens of thousands around the world notes Jack, who defines a hug as any personal touch that impresses or delights. (Brazil, Japan, China, Russia, Mexico, the UK, even Estonia!). What’s more, Jack “But the key message I want to convey is that hugging worked 10 years ago, it’s suddenly became a highly sought-after motivational speaker who’s presented at working today and I believe it will work 100 years from now. So try it! It might more than 200 conferences around the globe. Why? In this writer’s opinion, the book is not just a guide to personalized selling start out as a business strategy but ultimately becomes a way of life.”
“It is increasingly important to provide customized solutions, including offering customers a unique experience. In his stores, Jack Mitchell has always pursued this goal by focusing on the one real added value: the human factor. An inspiring example that is worth following, at work and in life.”
36
what’s NEW Our buyers’ picks on what’s trending this season... SPRING 2015
Introducing 28-Year-Old Sensation...
WES GORDON Sensual Sophistication We are thrilled to introduce Wes Gordon in Wilkes Bashford San Francisco and at wilkesbashford.com! The New Yorkbased, Atlanta-born designer infuses the luxury and timeless sophistication of his southern heritage with the youthful edge and energy of New York City. Launching his first collection upon graduating college, this season the designer has more clearly identified his woman. “She’s uppercrust, but she lives in Tribeca,” says the designer. Mixing luxe fabrics like cashmere, silk and chantilly lace, his clothes combine an elegant pedigree with a sensual and artsy flow and vibe.
“
MY SHOES ARE L I K E H I TC H CO C K B LO N D E S . L I K E K I M N OVA K A N D G R AC E K E L LY, T H E Y H AV E A D I ST I N C T LO O K T H AT I S M YST E R I O U S A N D B E AU T I F U L . E AC H O N E T E L L S A STO RY.
BETTYE’S
BACK!
After a brief hiatus, Bettye Muller is back and better than ever. From easy espadrilles to chic sandals, Muller has it covered. Muller’s shoe collection reflects her love of luxe fabrics and travel. In styles that range from ’50s modern to the ’20s and earlier, Bettye Muller shoes are inspired
”
by vintage fabrics and intense colors that create a sense of fantasy for women. Attracting modernday blondes from Katie Couric to Cameron Diaz, the artist says that women who wear her pieces have a great sense of self and a distinct style. “They’re a statement, so the women
who wear them must be confident.” The beauty of her shoes lies in the details: faux fur-lined interiors, vintage brocades and vibrant beaded accents are just a few special touches that distinguish her footwear. “They’re original, and I always want to keep them that way,” says the designer.
FRESH FROM ITALY!
PT01 OUR “MOST ACCESSIBLE” MEN’S SLIM CUT DOESN’T SKIMP ON THE DETAILS. We are pleased to have recently added Pantaloni Torino’s PT01 slim cut line to all of our stores. The highly sought-after Italian brand is getting lots of fans, due to its elegant fabric and construction and innovative use of special details. We find it to be the most accessible slim fit in the market. While the clean flat-front basic is our best seller, we also carry stunning models designed for golf and travel!
Jonathan Simkhai @ WB Palo Alto! Jonathan Simkhai is a born-and-raised New York City original. Since the launch of his first women’s wear collection in 2010, he has delivered a unique take on sophisticated dressing for the modern, cosmopolitan woman. Simkhai likes to blur gender lines, taking cues from menswear and translating them into sexy and feminine silhouettes. A favorite of celebrities ranging from Jessica Chastain to Kim Kardashian, we are particularly taken with his fresh and highly wearable interpretations of the midi!
THE ULTIMATE
MIDI
MEN’S MUST-HAVE FOR SPRING!
designer SNEAKERS No women’s OR MEN’S wardrobe is complete this spring without a great-looking pair of designer sneakers. The ultimate marriage of style and comfort is everywhere... and takes you just about anywhere (well, almost). Add edge and sophistication to your casual look. We have a feeling this trend will be around for the long haul!
Bohemian Luxe
ULLA JOHNSON
Growing up with archaeologist parents, Ulla Johnson developed a sensibility for comfortable elegance that moves. Flowy skirts and bell-bottoms are often mixed with more tailored pieces. Retro touches like crochet, eyelet, gypsy pantaloons and ponchos give a nomadic-chic feel to her work. Designed for the woman who globe-trots or is simply on the run in her own town, Ulla Johnson stresses not to fuss with her clothes. A little rumpling is fine! Come discover her fun and highly wearable creations in Wilkes Bashford Palo Alto or at wilkesbashford.com!
BOGLIOLI
The Ultimate Unstructured Men worldwide can be thankful that 10 years ago, Pierluigi Boglioli had the big idea of taking the structure out of jackets. Today, this renowned family design house from Brescia in Northern Italy is the world’s best maker of soft jackets. Each coat is garment dyed and washed by hand. Their mastery of fit and feel is like none other in the market.
NOW AT PALO ALTO: FRANK & EILEEN
CRINKLY PERFECTION Venice, California-based designer Audrey McLoghlin named her shirt company for her grandparents Frank and Eileen. The brand celebrates the story of their grand romance and her fond memories of visiting them in Ireland as a child. Frank & Eileen is known for shirts that stand the test of time. “We marry fine Italian fabrics with California design and production to make the highest quality product while also creating jobs locally,” says McLoghlin. The company employs a “secret wrinkle-wash to give the shirts a slight worn-in and lovable look that will never go out of style.”
ALEXANDER
McQUEEN From Skulls to Studs to Geometric Prints! We are thrilled to announce we have added Alexander McQueen handbags to our ready-to-wear collections from the designer. Quirky, creative and fabulous as only McQueen can do it, a McQueen handbag will add excitement to your day and spring to your style!
eloquent
ELEGANCE
8-1)0)77 ;36(7 32 *%7,-32 0-*) &)%98= *631 731) 3* 0%8-2 %1)6-'%¸7 1378 43)8-' 1-2(7
4VIWIRXMRK SYV WTVMRK ¸ÿă GSPPIGXMSR WIX EKEMRWX XLI QEKRMÁ GIRX TEMRXIH GSPSRMEP FEGOHVSTW SJ 1I\MGS¸W ERGMIRX GMX] SJ 1IVMHE ,IVI [I JSYRH MRWTMVEXMSR LMHMRK EVSYRH IZIV] GSVRIV ERH XLI WSYRH SJ 0EXMR %QIVMGE¸W TSIXMG ZSMGIW WIIQIH XS IQEREXI MR XLI EMV [MXL [MWHSQ JSV XLI EKIW
A K RI S
ORDER ONLINE @ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
KI TO N
“YOU ARE THE STORYTELLER OF YOUR OWN LIFE, AND YOU CAN CREATE YOUR OWN LEGEND, OR NOT.” -
Isabel Allende
BR UNE LLO C UC INELLI
ORDER ONLINE @ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
M IC HAEL KOR S
ORDER ONLINE @ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
“IT IS NOT TRUE THAT PEOPLE STOP PURSUING DREAMS BECAUSE THEY GROW OLD, THEY GROW OLD BECAUSE THEY STOP PURSUING DREAMS.”
-Gabriel García Márquez
ISAIA
“FEET, WHAT DO I NEED THEM FOR WHEN I HAVE WINGS TO FLY?”
M A N OLO BL AHN I K
- Frida Kahlo
RO B ERTO C AVA L L I
VI NCE
ORDER ONLINE @WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
“THE MOST VALUABLE POSSESSION YOU CAN OWN IS AN OP E N H E ART.”
- Carlos Santana
T E MPLE ST. CL AIR ORDER ONLINE@ WILKESBASHFORD.COM FREE SHIPPING
DONNA KARAN NEW YORK
“ YOU C A N C UT A LL THE F LOWERS B UT YOU C A N N OT K E E P S PRING F R O M CO MI N G.”
- Pablo Neruda
BOG N ER
KICKTIONARY DEFINING THE TRENDS YOU’LL SEE WALKING DOWN THE RUNWAY.
1. THE TRAINER 1.
2.
Sneaker inspired by the traditional cross trainer, laces up with a tread sole and a mix of luxe materials. Use: “These Cucinelli trainers are great for work, errands, events and anything that requires you to look chic effortlessly.” Not intended for use during actual workouts, except if your goal is to have the best shoes in the room. See also: Brunello Cucinelli + glitter fabric = super-sport luxe.
2. THE SKATE Glammed up slip-on sneaker inspired by those worn by skateboarders. Use: “I live in my lace skates from AGL— maybe I’ll even get married in them…” See also: Brunello Cucinelli, Ferragamo, Stuart Weitzman, Jimmy Choo.
3. THE ESPADRILLE 3.
Hybrid shoes, mixing 1 part woven raffia with 1 to 3 parts rubber, leather, suede, and/ or fabric. Can be a lace-up, slip-on, high or low-top. Use: “What is metallic and suede and casual too? My new favorite Jimmy Choos!” See also: Gucci, Bettye Muller, Tod’s.
4. THE LOW-TOP Lace-up sneaker that hits below the ankle. Thick laces make for an updated look that says “I’m not trying too hard but I still know what’s going on.” Use: “These frayed satin Pedro Garcia low-tops are so sporty luxe.” See also: Lanvin, Saint Laurent.
4.
5.
5. THE WEDGE High-top with a lift; the original fashion sneaker. Use: “I’m about to take a walk on the wild side of this trend with these snakeprint Zanotti sneaker wedges... and I’m not coming back.” See also: Wild-side fabrics from Lanvin, Gucci.
JEWELRY AWARD-WINNING CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
INTRODUCING
MATTIA CIELO REVOLUTIONIZING FINE JEWELRY DESIGN matter how precious, should enhance design and not the other way around. Cielo believes his design partner Massimiliano Bonoli is the most talented in the field. This was proven immediately when one of their bracelets won first place at the 2010 Design Awards, shortly after launching their jewelry brand. We are delighted to offer Cielo’s groundbreaking and stunning contemporary creations at Wilkes Bashford Palo Alto and at wilkesbashford.com.
Jewelry is in Mattia Cielo’s blood. The 32-year-old designer’s father, Sergio Cielo, is one of the key players in the Italian goldsmith sector and founder of Worldgem, now known as Cielo Venezia 1270, one of Italy’s leading jewelry firms. After growing up in a large family jewelry business, Cielo studied finance and business management, first working in finance in London and then the jewelry business in Spain. After these experiences, traveling the world and learning several languages, he returned to Italy with a more globally informed perspective and a grand vision: to revolutionize the design standards for fine jewelry.
Cielo is passionate about the significance of innovation in jewelry design and believes it should evolve, experiment and strive to break new ground as is done in other disciplines, like architecture and painting. He considers his jewlery to be “a modern industrial design object,” citing ergonomics and movement as being at the core of his design philosophy. To this end, Cielo is constantly experimenting with techniques and materials. He believes materials, no
VIEWPOINTS
HAVING THEIR SAY
TYLER VS. WILKES OUR TWO IN-HOUSE TASTEMAKERS GIVE THEIR TAKES ON SOME NEW TRENDS & OLD FAVORITES...
TYLER MITCHELL
WILKES BASHFORD
FAVORITE MEN’S TREND FOR SPRING
Light jackets. Most people think of outerwear for the winter, but spring outerwear is all over Europe and we want to bring it to San Francisco, where it’s always chilly.
The Eisenhower jacket. Short, fitted and flattering on men of all ages
EYEWEAR
Tom Ford. I have multiple pairs… he does big dramatic glasses better than anybody, I think.
Morganthal Frederics (pictured). Unique, therefore distinctive. Fond of anything in tortoise.
WOMEN’S DESIGNER TO WATCH
Wes Gordon (pictured) is young with an impressive resume, well connected on both coasts. He worked with Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford. His collection is all about modernity and clean simple lines. The celebs have taken note!
Oscar de la Renta. Their new designer, Peter Copping, was formerly the creative director for Nina Ricci. He’s a wonderful British designer with a great resume.
TYLER MITCHELL
WILKES BASHFORD
FILM GENRE
I like to laugh... a lot. My favorite comedy is probably My Cousin Vinny.
Art films or dramas with passion... Think Black Swan or Nebraska.
MONK STRAP SHOES
LOVE… but only with suits for me.
I love monk strap shoes, especially in suede.
COLOGNE
Terre D’Hermes. Super mensy. (Available at Mitchells of Westport, call to order!)
Penhaligon’s Lavandula. Suits me just fine.
BEST DRESSED FEMALE CELEB
Blake Lively. She is young, sexy and very sophisticated. She can wear trendy as well as classic modern styles.
Cate Blanchett exudes style, sophistication and old Hollywood glamour. She is the ultimate chic, modernday women. Her style is as iconic and classic as her performances.
FAVORITE CHARITY EVENT
Tipping Point. All my friends are there, it’s for a great cause and they always have an awesome musical guest. (Last time was One Republic.)
Haute Dog SF. This year is a benefit for Muttville — it’s a dog fashion show. I have a smile from ear to ear the whole night.
BEST NEW SAN FRANCISCO RESTAURANT
The Heirloom Café. Deep in the Mission, I go there only with my wife — we sit at the bar overlooking the open kitchen. Always get the burger; it’s not on the menu.
Fog City. I like to go there with four or five people, grab a booth, and look out on the Embarcadero (VERY San Francisco).
INSPIRATION
THE DESIGNER/MUSE RELATIONSHIP, A GRAND TRADITION
FASHION MUSES PAST & PRESENT Since antiquity, captivating “goddesses” have given artists endless inspiration from which to create — be it music, poetry, painting or any art form. Today, the magic of the muse is often found in the world of fashion, where designer/muse relationships may last for one season’s collection or result in many years of collaboration.
MUSES PAST Hubert Givenchy & Audrey Hepburn
Valentino Garavani & Jackie Kennedy
Yves St. Laurent & Loulou de la Falaise
The beloved actress and her couturier have one of the most famed designer/ muse relationships in history. They met when he was costume designer for Sabrina and worked together on many films, most notably Breakfast at Tiffany’s, for which he designed her iconic little black dress. Said Givenchy of Ms. Hepburn, “She was someone unique. She was real. She could do everything. She could do Shakespeare or other grand writers. She had it all.”
Shortly after the death of President Kennedy, Jackie Kennedy saw a friend from Italy wearing Valentino and was so struck she ordered six black-and-white dresses from the designer, which she wore through her year of mourning. From then on, she was a devoted client and friend, even having Valentino design her gown for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. “Jackie Kennedy, she was a fantastic muse to me!” Valentino said.
Known for her free-spirited nature, the unintentional muse captivated YSL when she began modeling in the 1960s. Over the years they collaborated and YSL designed iconic pieces for her, including his ’70s Rive Gauche collection and his legendary Smoking tuxedo. Said YSL of de la Falaise, “She has an extraordinary lightness of touch, along with a faultless critical view of fashion. Intuitive, innate, individual. Her presence at my side is a dream.”
and the way people dress worldwide. In the earlier days of fashion, couturiers would work with celebrities from the worlds of politics, the arts or society for years, building lifetime relationships and collaborating to create iconic looks that were integral to the celebrity’s identity. One of the most famed collaborations was Audrey Hepburn with Givenchy; others include Bob Mackie and Cher, and Madonna and Jean-Paul Gaultier. One of the world’s most unwitting muses is British actress-turned-Parisianchanteusse Jane Birkin, for whom Hermès’ eponymous Birkin bag was designed. Birkin met Hermès chief executive JeanLouis Dumas while sitting next to him on
an airplane. She lamented the challenge of finding a good weekend bag as the contents of her straw bag spilled out onto the floor. The rest, as they say, is fashion history. The Birkin soon became one of the hottest and most collectible handbags in the world. In today’s more fickle world, with such a dirge of designers and celebrities, muse/designer relationships often last for little more than a collection or two. Many designers cite the models they have signed for their upcoming season as their muses. However, some designers still latch onto that special someone who captures their imagination throughout their career. As long as there’s fashion, there will be modern-day goddesses that inspire it.
Manolo Blahnik & Sarah Jessica Parker
Akris’ Albert Kriemler Jason Wu & & Princess Charlene Diane Kruger
It was “love at first sight” when Manolo Blahnik met SJP in Madeleine Gallery on Sunset Boulevard, and his shoes were made a recurring “guest star” on Sex in the City by the on- and off-screen fashionista. Their two names have appeared together ever since. He’s named shoes after her and they are collaborating on a new shoe line together. Said the designer, “Ms. Parker gave me a huge push all over the world, so until I drop, I’m very grateful to her.”
Princess Charlene, the South African Olympic swimmer-turned-royalty upon her marriage to Prince Albert of Monaco, often looks to Swiss fashion house Akris for her glamorous appearances.... from the Oscars to affairs of state to Monaco’s famed Grand Prix. The feeling is apparently mutual and has given creative director Albert Kriemler his ideal woman for whom to design. “When I design a collection I always think of her,” Kriemler told In Style Magazine.
MUSES PRESENT
The original muses found in Greek mythology were the nine daughters of Zeus, who were the goddesses of the inspiration behind literature, science and the arts. Ever since, a muse has been known as someone who inspires and influences any type of artist or creator, and in so doing, becomes the image and vision that drives an artist’s work. In the world of famous fashionistas, there are few things more flattering and exciting than being a fashion designer’s muse. Most celebrities work with stylists who choose their clothing and help define their signature look. When a designer’s entire collection or long-term vision is at stake, being a muse is an opportunity to have one’s personal style influence fashion
Jason Wu, who is inspired by strong women, jumped into the spotlight for designing both of Michelle Obama’s inaugural gowns. For his spring ’15 collection, he cites Diane Kruger and Charlotte Rampling as his muses. “They have impeccable style,” Wu says of the actresses, 30 years apart in age. “I imagined them in every single piece.” His fashion house calls German actress/model/“it girl” Diane Kruger his “perennial muse.”
FROM FASHION TO JEWELRY, OUR DESIGNERS “PAINT” WITH THE SEASON’S MOST SUMPTUOUS COLORS.
hues
OF SUMMER
celestial & ethereal by KATHLEEN DUGHI JEWELER Top to bottom: Reve Diamond, Lilac Spinel and Morganite Earrings in platinum and 18K rose gold; 9.11ct Blue Sapphire and Half Moon Diamond Ring in platinum — handmade, one of a kind; Nebula White Coral Necklace with blue sapphires in 18K white gold.
See more of the collection at wilkesbashford.com
under the sea The visual poetry that is summer color knows no bounds. From the muted, sun-drenched tones of beach and sea to the brilliant hues of an exotic garden or a ďŹ eld of wildowers, this season our designers capture summer in their bedazzling palettes.
See more of the collection at wilkesbashford.com
by TEMPLE ST. CLAIR Top to bottom: 18K Large Flower Earrings with rose cut blue and white sapphire (5.92cts), $2,850; 18K Classic Ring with peridot (8.02cts) and diamond granulation, $15,000; 18K Crown Ring with royal blue moonstone (6.00cts), $6,500; 18K Bombe Ring with royal blue moonstone (11.25cts) and diamond (0.12cts), $7,500.
enchanted gardens, blazing with color by OSCAR HEYMAN Multicolor Pastel Rosecut Sapphire Necklace with diamonds in platinum. Price upon request.
See more of the collection at wilkesbashford.com
summertime ssumm su mm mert m mer rrtim tim im ime m me
HUES H HU UE UE ES S
Ă IPHW SJJ [MPHĂ‚ S[IVW by SUTRA Clockwise from top: Paraiba Double Pear Earrings featuring 45 carats of paraiba, in 18K white gold; Paraiba Rose Cut Flower Ring, featuring 12 carats of diamond and 10 carats of paraiba, in 18K white gold; Mint Flower Earrings, featuring 15 carats of diamond, 30 carats of tourmaline and 16 carats of garnet in 18K white gold; Purple Drop Earrings, featuring 13 carats of diamond and 76 carats of kunzite, in 18K rose gold. Prices upon request.
See more of the collection at wilkesbashford.com
TRIBUTE
FASHION LEGEND OSCAR DE LA RENTA
A LIFE LIVED ELEGANTLY: OSCAR DE LA RENTA REMEMBERING THE ICONIC DESIGNER WHO DRESSED FIRST LADIES, FILM STARS & ROYALTY
The fashion constellation lost a bright and shining star with the recent passing of Oscar de la Renta, the legendary Dominican designer. Credited for creating “First Lady Fashion,” he has famously dressed First Ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy to Michele Obama for inagurations, galas, state dinners and any event where high glamour was on the menu. Most recently, Mr. de la Renta created Amal Alamuddin’s dress for her storybook wedding to George Clooney, to rave reviews from the fashion
press. He fitted her himself only weeks before his death from cancer. Oscar de la Renta was born and raised in Santo Domingo until age 19, then left to study painting in Madrid, which led him to an apprenticeship with Spain’s most renowned couturier, Cristóbal Balenciaga, whom he considered his mentor. De la Renta next became a couture assistant at Lanvin and was later the first Dominican to design for a French couture house at the House of Balmain. His worldrenowned eponymous family-run fashion
house will continue under the helm of son-in-law Alex Bolen and step-daughter Eliza. The Mitchell family has enjoyed a long relationship with the Bolens and we have no doubt they will beautifully uphold the designer’s legacy and vision. “He died exactly as he lived: with tremendous grace, great dignity and very much on his own terms,” they stated. He is also survived by his second wife, philanthropist Annette Reed, an adopted son and two other step-children. Celebrities of fashion, press and politics, from Anna Wintour to Michael Kors, issued beautiful statements about his friendship and talent. “His singular talent and exquisite taste elevated American fashion, and his warmth and friendship will be missed by our family and all whose lives he touched,” read a statement by Bill and Hillary Clinton.
THIS SEASON, DESIGNERS PAY HOMAGE TO A DECADE WHEN ARTISTS AND MUSICIANS “LET THEIR FREAK FLAGS FLY” AND BROKE GROUND IN EVERY WAY.
s 70 ’
redux
Lanvin
Bell Bottoms Go-Go Dresses Fringe Tassels Patch Pockets Stacked Heels Chunky Rings Trippy Prints Circle Earrings Flower Power Summer of Love!
Key parties. Peace rallies. Hair! Get ready for some ’70s-style fun! For spring/summer ’15, the world’s top designers take us back to the Summer of Love. We can’t think of a more liberating and sexy way to get the party going this summer!
Lanvin
Phillip Lim
TRENDS
Yossi Harari
Manolo Blahnik
Pant legs were wide, kaleidoscope prints were wild ERH Â S[IVW [IVI everywhere. Come see our curated retro collections. The ’70s have never been more chic!
Valentino
Mother
Kathleen Dughi Jeweler
Photography: Sergio Kurhajec Hair/Makeup: Claire Bayley Styling: Wendy McNett
white on white For spring & summer 2015, we can’t get enough white! Layered, cut out, crocheted, fringed, feathered, opaque, sheer, bright “off” & now, head-to-toe, nothing is cooler in the hot sun than white-hot white.
Dress with Fringe: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Sweater Dress: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Silver Belt: MICHAEL KORS
Sheer Chiffon Body Tee in White: RAQUEL ALLEGRA White-Over-White Crochet Tank: RAQUEL ALLEGRA Silk Pant in Tan: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
sheer, knitted & appliquĂŠd
white
Origami Sheath Dress with Belt in Optic White: MICHAEL KORS
fringy, sensual
peek-a-boo
white
This page: Crochet & Pleated Dress in White: ROBERTO CAVALLI On left: Fringed Top in White: IRO
TRAVEL
THE ULTIMATE SOUTH PACIFIC RETREAT
MARLON BRANDO’S SECRET HIDEAWAY THE BRANDO: A NEW ECO-HOTEL ON TETIAROA, THE PRIVATE TAHITIAN ISLAND THE RECLUSIVE ACTOR VISITED TO ESCAPE IT ALL. Hailed as the finest actor of his generation and one of the greatest of all time, Marlon Brando was equally known for his controversial behavior, often as stormy as his performances. When Brando first caught sight of the Tahitian island of Tetiaroa, he was fully primed to get far away from Hollywood. His second marriage was falling apart. He was becoming increasingly known as an ornery, misbehaving prima donna, who tried the patience of his colleagues and blew budgets with his bad habits and petulant demands. Passing up the lead in Lawrence of Arabia, he opted instead for Mutiny on the Bounty, in which the main character highjacked a ship to Tahiti. Despite seven Oscar nominations, the 1962 film was a commercial flop. Mirroring his character in the film, Brando highjacked the production itself, causing it to come in catastrophically over budget. Also like his character, he fell in love with Tahiti and a (19-year-old) Tahitian woman. Brando also fell in love with the Tahitian people and way of life. In 1966, he purchased the island of Tetiaroa for $267,000 as his second home. An environmentalist ahead of his time, the actor rechanneled his angst and the acting brilliance for which he was known into a passion for cleaning up the island
and preserving its natural gifts. He soon built a modest, ecofriendly lodge, where he even ocassionally hosted visitors from Hollywood. However, with beastly heat, it was hard for many to tolerate the lack of air conditioning. Brando became determined to build a hotel that would have 100 percent self-sustaining renewable energy. Investors and developers at the time told him it was impossible given the lack of infrastructure on the island, but he was relentless. While he put years of effort into the project, Brando never got to experience the ultimate realization of his vision. Developer Laurent Darcy, however, painstakingly imagined Brando’s response in every decision made in completing the resort. The 35 1,033 square-foot private villas combine Tahitian materials with Danish modernism and a hint of Malibu, each with an outdoor plunge pool. The main patio includes many sitting areas and panoramic views of much of the South Pacific and Tahiti. The beaches are an untouched electric blue in the sun, and
the all-inclusive resort features cuisine by Parisian chef Guy Martin, and Bob’s Bar, named for Brando’s original bar there. On-site is an “eco-station” with two labs. Marine biologists and students come to study specimens and conservation. Starting at $2,500 per night, the resort is breathtaking in every sense of the word. Most importantly, the Tahitian locals and all involved believe the resort would do Brando proud.
BRANDO’S GRAND, GREEN VISION TO BUILD A SELF-SUSTAINING RESORT ON AN UNDEVELOPED ISLAND WAS REALIZED WHEN THE BRANDO OPENED IN 2014, 10 YEARS AFTER THE ACTOR’S DEATH.
DOCUMENTARIES
FILMS ON ART & FASHION
REMEMBERING THE ARTIST ROBERT DE NIRO’S LOVING TRIBUTE TO HIS FATHER — A TALENTED, COMPLEX, LARGELY UNDISCOVERED ARTIST. Remembering the Artist is a son’s heartfelt tribute to his father, who died of prostate cancer at age 71 in 1993. Actor Robert De Niro provides an engaging, often moving, firsthand account of what it was like to live with a talented artist as a father. Robert De Niro, Sr. was part of the abstract expressionist movement that put American painters, including Jackson REMEMBERING Pollock and Willem THE ARTIST: de Kooning, in the ROBERT DE NIRO, SR. spotlight. HBO Films The film is Directed by Perri Peltz intensely visual. & Geeta Gandbhir Shots of De Niro’s studio, which his son preserved, dominate most frames. The artist’s rich, colorful canvases are displayed throughout. Snippets of home video provide an intimate look at an extremely gifted, yet largely unknown man. Interviews by Robert De Niro, Jr. as well as De Niro, Sr.’s friends help paint a picture of the artist as a person. One of De Niro’s friends recalled that he “loved to dance the jitterbug” and was a funny and very lively man. His son also reflects on the darker periods of his father’s
life, including his struggles with his homosexuality and depression that lasted throughout his life. Sadly, homosexuality wasn’t so widely accepted at that time and DeNiro, Sr. never came out. De Niro studied under famed Germanborn painter Hans Hofmann in the 1930s, which is where he met his wife, fellow artist Virginia Admiral. Hofmann apparently had said that Bob De Niro and Virginia Admiral were the best students he had in his class. While Admiral was
the first of Hofmann’s students to achieve success, she stopped painting after she had children. De Niro, Sr., however, painted up until he died. His early work was featured in an exhibit at Peggy Guggenheim’s Art of This Century Gallery in New York, along with the work of other abstract expressionist painters. Abstract expressionism was the first specifically American movement to achieve international influence and put New York City at the center of the western
A RISING STAR IN THE 1940s & ’50s NEW YORK ART SCENE, ROBERT DE NIRO SR.’S ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM FELL OUT OF FAVOR UPON THE ARRIVAL OF POP ARTISTS, LIKE ANDY WARHOL & FRANK STELLA.
Clockwise from top right: Seated Figure, Orange Shirt, Guitar Case, a promotional poster of the film featuring the artist and his son.
art world, a role formerly claimed by Paris. While De Niro was part of the abstract expressionist movement, he didn’t identify with the other artists. The individual artists’ work differed greatly from each other. And by the 1960s, a new kind of art burst onto the scene. This new wave of pop art was dominated by a young generation of artists led by Frank Stella and Andy Warhol. De Niro was personally opposed to this new form of art, because the artists suppressed the painterly quality in their work, whereas De Niro relished it. In the meantime, De Niro divorced his wife because of his homosexuality. He was struggling financially and moved to Paris to work on his painting. De Niro, Jr. recalls his father’s battle with depression while he was living in Paris. When he went to visit De Niro, Sr., he carried his paintings through Paris to different galleries, struggling to get his father to leave his apartment. Later, when De Niro, Sr. was diagnosed with prostate cancer, he resisted going to the doctor. De Niro, Jr. tearfully admits that he regrets that he didn’t follow through “with certain things with his parents” and didn’t push
hard enough to make sure his father was getting treatment. De Niro says that it is his obligation to document his father’s work because he never got the recognition he wanted. Said the actor, “The thought of what he’s done, all his work... I can’t not but make sure that it’s held up and remembered... So I just want to see him get his due. That’s my responsibility and he used to always say that artists are always recognized after they’re long gone.” The strength of Remembering the Artist is in the personal accounts of his son and friends, which provide a glimpse into the complicated character that was the artist. While there could have been more focus on the contents of De Niro’s paintings and the influence his work had on the modernist movement, the film was gripping because of its emotional component. The visuals of the paintings themselves, with their vibrant colors, in contrast with the rest of the shots, mostly black and white, were stunning. Whether you’re a De Niro fan or an art junkie, Remembering the Artist, produced by HBO, is a must-see.
world scene
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. THE LATEST SCOOP Ice cream is one of the great joys of spring and summer. (Actually, it brings joy all year.) Perhaps you’ve heard of High Road Craft Ice Cream, considered by many foodies to be the best in America. Chef Keith Schroeder originally created the artisanal treats just for chefs, but word spread and fascinating flavors such as Pistachio Honey Ricotta, Mango Chili Lime and Bourbon Burnt Sugar, along with elevated classics (think Vanilla Fleur de Sel), are now available to the public. What you might not know is that High Road also crafts bespoke ice cream. You can request your favorite ingredients, or if you’ve discovered a rare chocolate or happen to grow pecans in your backyard, supply your own. May we suggest chocolate with chocolate topped with chocolate?
MICHEL TALLICHET
MOSEY OUT WEST AND SIT A SPELL
80
Feel a hankering to get away from it all? Looking for peace and serenity? Big Sky Resort in southwest Montana, between Bozeman and West Yellowstone, is famous for skiing in winter and also offers a tranquil getaway during the warmer months. Half Hitch Home, one of the resort’s Signature Lodging Properties, is a three-level log house that boasts five bedrooms, five bathrooms, two full kitchens, a theater room with seating for eight, an exercise room, a game room, a spacious sunroom with hot tub, and three living rooms decorated in the western style. A private concierge will arrange transportation and deliveries of groceries and liquor (a wine connoisseur chooses wines from the resort’s impressive selection), schedule a masseur and book a Montana-trained chef who specializes in preparing wild game such as bison, elk and pheasant. Sounds as fine as cream gravy.
CHRISTOPHER MUELLER
A HISTORICAL FEAST Tugu Kunstkring Paleis in Jarkarta is celebrating its 100th anniversary (it was inaugurated in 1914 by the Dutch governor). Now under the management of Tugu Hotels & Restaurants Group, this legendary structure includes a gallery for art exhibitions, Suzie Wong bar, Ban Lam wine shop, bread corner and a restaurant that offers the Betawi Grand Rijsttafel, a sumptuous social feast that used to be celebrated by the Dutch plantation landlords when they hosted honorable guests in the 1900s. This special menu arrangement consists of 12 to 24 different dishes, presented by 12 waiters dressed in costumes from the period of colonial Java. Somehow, they find time between courses to perform traditional dances.
THE SHOW GOES ON The Signature Theater in Arlington, Virginia is renowned for its definitive Sondheim productions, inventive adaptations of overlooked or forgotten works, and fresh new projects. The theater takes big musicals and presents them in an intimate setting (with seating for only 275) without stripping down the cast or the orchestra. Signature also offers education and outreach programs that engage the area’s increasingly diverse population and target those traditionally underserved by the arts. As part of its 25th anniversary celebration, this spring Signature Theater is putting on quite a show, presenting the world premiere of Soon by Nick Blaemire, Kander and Ebb’s Cabaret, and Simply Sondheim, a brand-new Stephen Sondheim revue featuring six performers and a 16-piece orchestra. Bravo… bis.
THE ONLY WAY TO FLY
If first class leaves you feeling a little cramped, reserve the Residence on Etihad Airways. Measuring 125 square feet, the Residence provides a living room, separate double bedroom and shower room, all with luxurious appointments. A touchscreen control unit operates the ambient lighting and window shading, adjusts seat position and firmness, and activates the in-seat massage functions. You’ll have access to broadband with internet mobile and data capability, live TV, HDMI, an AC outlet and USB ports. A butler, combining the roles of concierge and maitre d’hotel after training at the Savoy Butler Academy in London, handles the details and plans your menu. To ensure a really cozy night’s sleep, the Residence will even provide jammies.
81
COOL SCHOOL Brunello Cucinelli is making it cool to learn the art of tailoring. He’s investing in young talent with his launch of the Solomeo School, a tailoring academy for the next generation of apprentices. In order to open the school, Cucinelli acquired the business branch of Sartoria d’Avenza, an Italian specialty maker of men’s ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits. There are four programs offered at the Solomeo School: two for Cucinelli’s direct business (Mending and Linking, Cutting and Assembly) and two to aid in the future of Solomeo (Horticulture and Gardening, Masonry). Cucinelli says, “The school is meant to be a vivid and concrete experience in which learning a craft occurs in an environment imbued with humanistic values… Like workshops back in the Renaissance, these are a noble expression of craftsmanship, halfway between art and technique; they complete the human, cultural and spiritual training that, I hope, might stir in our youth the desire to grow up and question itself, the honesty to admit one’s mistakes, the ability to use manual skills to serve intelligence and to be ‘concretely creative.’” The first program runs from October 2014 to June 2015. By training craftsmen for the future, Cucinelli intends to keep the quality in the craft, and in his apparel collections, for years to come. —EMD
Fast, free and convenient pickup/delivery throughout the San Francisco Bay Area Friendly customer service Green and state-of-the-art technology for cleaning various types of materials and garment constructions
“Alex’s has partnered with Wilkes Bashford for the last ten years. They stand for everything we strive to stand for here at Wilkes Bashford: quality service, quality product, a sense of urgency and a smile!” —Tyler Mitchell
Order a pick-up 24/7! Get our App
1-800-44-VALET | alexdryclean.com
82
WOULD YOU PASS THE
MODERN FIT TEST? ANSWER THE QUESTIONS BELOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR SUIT IS MAKING YOU LOOK OLDER, HEFTIER, OUT OF SHAPE, OR SIMPLY OUT OF DATE.
2.
The width of the shoulders (point to point) should complement your body. If padding is extending the suit shoulders beyond your natural shoulders, then your suit is too old.
3.
1.
Sleeves are trimmer and armholes higher than before. This is how Europeans have been wearing their suits for years, allowing for arm movement so you don’t lift up your entire jacket each time you raise your arms.
Lapels are slimmer, though your personal style will dictate how slim. If you can make the leap, try combining slim lapels and narrower ties for a sharp, stylish look. You’ll be surprised at how this takes years off your perceived age.
4.
5.
Take the button test. If, when you button your two-button suit, the bottom button hits at or below your waistline, it’s definitely time to shop for new clothing. Also, with your arms down, the bottom of your jacket should reach your knuckles, not your fingertips.
Modern dress pants should sit a bit lower on the waist and end higher off the ground than before, so forget the old rules about where pants should break. We like to say that the bottom of the pant should “caress” the top of the shoe. The good news: people can see more of that fabulous footwear you’re now wearing.
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA
P. S.
If you failed this test or have any questions, come in and try on some modern clothing. We guarantee that you’ll see, and appreciate, he difference. .
83
in-store services
EXPERTISE
MADE-TO-MEASURE
Our legendary Style Advisors have been with us an average of over 10 years and are passionate about developing trusted relationships with customers and advising on all clothing, jewelry and accessory matters. They always go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is efficient and enjoyable and that you are fabulously well dressed.
In all of our stores, we are known for our extraordinary Made-to-Measure Advisors, who will help you create bespoke suits, shirts, sportcoats and more. Choose from exquisite fabrics, buttons, linings and details from the world’s top fashion houses. Custom shoes, leather goods and other items are also available by request.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP
CLOSET CLEANING
BESPOKE JEWELRY
The only thing nicer than buying our merchandise is gifting it. And we can make it even nicer with complimentary gift wrapping. You choose the perfect gift… we’ll do the rest.
To help you integrate new purchases with old, enjoy a complimentary closet consultation. A Style Advisor will visit your home and make suggestions on how to edit, mix and match your wardrobe. An expert tailor can be on hand for adjustments. If desired, we will also create a photo catalog of your wardrobe for future reference.
As a full-service jeweler, we offer custom design services and can help you design the piece of your dreams. You can work with your own sketch, or with a famed design studio such as Kwiat or Oscar Heyman, to turn what’s in your head into something on your neck... or wrist... or ears... or finger!
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service is important to us, not only in our stores, but also in our community. We will help you clear out unwanted items cluttering up your closet, while providing for a local charity. We will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.
VIRTUAL CLOSET Through our new WBWorld services, we keep a visual electronic inventory of your wardrobe to remind you and your Style Advisor of what you have and in what size. A wardrobe is a serious investment. There is no substitute for building it wisely, with the guidance of someone takes the time to know your wardrobe, lifestyle and needs.
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS Whether you purchase in-store or online, we offer complimentary expert alterations on all regularly priced merchandise. Down to the last detail, we ensure that each article is tailored masterfully just for you. Alteration fees apply only on sale items 40% off or more.
SHOE & HANDBAG SHINE/ REFURBISHMENT Make a favorite old pair of shoes or handbag (almost) new again. Through our relationships with designers and world-class leather and skin craftsmen, we can bring new life to a tired treasure. Charges apply for these services. Call our stores for details.
AT YOUR SERVICE SERVICE IS
PARAMOUNT.
HOME DELIVERY We understand you have a busy schedule and want to do all we can to lessen the demands on your time. This is why we provide local delivery if you live in a reasonable proximity to our stores.
CAPPUCCINO, COFFEE, WATER, & DRINK BAR In this hectic world, sometimes a hot cup of coffee is just what you need... snacks for a pick-me-up can help, too. For a real treat, we offer signature cocktails and a Scotch Bar in the San Francisco Penthouse!
REQUEST AN APPOINTMENT We understand how precious your time is. Call or email your Style Advisor for an appointment and we’ll get you in and out with record speed!
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need repair and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge.
RETURN & EXCHANGE POLICY FASHION EMERGENCIES You never know when a fashion emergency will strike. We’re always prepared for them, even after hours just dial your main store number and follow the prompts to be connected to one of our family’s homes and we’ll come to your fashion rescue!
We want you to be 100% satisfied with everything you buy. If you are not completely happy with a purchase, feel free to bring it back within a reasonable period of time. We want to make sure you love your new items as much when you get home as you did in the store!
To really understand ourIt impacts service, only everyyou facet of our business, fromto our experience ability to bring youit. worldhave classour fashions to the friendly, You, customers knowledgeable sales associates who and areYou, atour customers helpfriends, and guide you. theandheart we at the friends,of areall ultimately of all that we do, and do,heart and we strive towe strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If constantly exceed your for some reason you feel that the level expectations. In-store of service we provide does not meet your expectations, us know. and now onlineplease as let well, we are available 24/7 to answer any of your questions or requests – big or small. Connect via email or call 415.986.4380.
All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES
WILKES BASHFORD FORUM SPRING 2015