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Paddles and forks are the main utensils used in the cheese-making process. The paddles are used in the first stage to stir the milk cultures. The forks are used to separate the curds in the later stage of the process.
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John Mylin, MAFC loan officer, shows one of the wheels of cheese that is aging in the underground cheese cave. The wheels and blocks of cheese produced by Wakefield Dairy are stored in the cave during the aging process.
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Enjoying Cheese with Ease:
Wakefield Dairy gives a home to artisan cheese-making story and photos by JENNIFER HETRICK
The cultivation of artisan raw milk cheeses is distinctively recognized in Peach Bottom, Pennsylvania thanks to the efforts of Wakefield Dairy. As a member of the Amish Community, Henry Lapp grew up in Lancaster County. Six years ago, he bought his current 60-acre farm. He had plenty of history with the property—he had previously rented the acreage and it was just a few miles from his childhood home. In 2001, after he and a group of fellow dairymen were unhappy with low prices they were receiving for their milk, he and the six other farmers decided to delve into cheese-making as a way to increase profitability.
ode to the cheese cave Today, Wakefield Dairy is made up of four of those original milk producers. The operation has become fine-tuned, especially with the addition of a cheese cave that Henry built under his creamery in 2003. In the early days, Henry worked with cheese consultants, often called cheese masters, who visited the farm and taught him how to do what
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now is an everyday set of tasks.
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On the Lapp homestead in Peach Bottom, Lancaster County (PA)—the cheesemaking equipment is only a few steps away from the house where Henry and his family live.
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But even with their help, Henry says the business was still struggling. A man from New York stopped by and suggested that what Henry needed was a cheese cave. That suggestion proved valuable, as Henry said his most popular cheeses are those which are aged in the 22-foot by 16-foot cave where he keeps many stored for two to three months. His oldest aged cheese is a 24-month-old cheddar. Henry keeps a sprinkler misting the room to ensure a high humidity level so that the cheeses won’t dry out and crack during the aging process.
Forks are shown fluffing the curds, bringing the cheesemaking process to an end. The curds are moved from the vats to square or round metal forms where they are pressed and compacted. Then they are placed in the cave for aging.
production for the palate
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Henry explains that time, temperature, and the added cultures are the most influential factors for what tastes of cheese will result. The other factor, of course, is flavoring that is added later in the process. The cultures Henry adds during cheese-making are produced in France, he says. Cultures are bacteria needed in cheese production, and they determine the cheese’s smell and texture. Milk from different breeds of cows has varying yields. As an example, when making Colby cheese, Jersey cattle will give you 13 percent yield
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The cheese is wrapped in plastic then placed on a rack and lowered into a steamer. The hot steam shrinks the wrapping so it fits tightly around the cheese.