CWB 114

A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS

cwb-online.co December/January 2019 Issue 114 £9.95

IT’S SHOWTIME THE LATEST TRADE SHOW NEWS EMBRACING COLOUR THE KEY A/W 19/20 COLOUR STORIES FOR CHILDRENSWEAR THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE THE MARKET INTELLIGENCE RESOURCE FOR DATA AND INSIGHTS ON KIDS, PARENTS AND FAMILIES

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CONTENTS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

CONTENTS 14

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25 REGULARS 05: COMMENT 06: NEWS 08: NCWA 10: LEGAL ADVICE 12: RETAIL THERAPY Store profiles and retail news 14: BRANDS TO WATCH Editor’s pick of brands 16: LAURA LOVES The coolest products for kids 58: TALKING POINT Romaine Coonghe, founder of Junior Style and Tangereene Magazine

FEATURES 18: EXHIBITION CALENDAR Round-up of the season’s trade shows 20: TOP DRAWER S/S19 Preview of PLAY, the show’s dedicated kids’ area

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20 22: PITTI BIMBO Preview of the a/w 19 show 25: EMBRACING COLOUR Industry expert Fiona Coleman highlights five important colour stories for a/w 19/20 28: INDX KIDSWEAR Preview of the a/w 19 show 30: THE MIDDLE DAUGHTER Deborah Ramswell, former co-founder and designer of No Added Sugar, discusses her new kidswear venture 32: LET’S MEET ANYWARE Singer-songwriter and podcaster, Jessie Ware, on the launch of her kidswear brand, anyware 34: CUCKOOZ NEST London’s first co-working space and pay-as-yougo nursery for working parents and small businesses 36: KIMBA KIDS The latest on Kimberley Walsh’s kidswear brand, Kimba Kids

40: APPETITE GROWS FOR PUD Growth plans for Pud, the northern independent chain of childrenswear outlets

SCHOOLWEAR 44: NEWS 47: SA AWARDS 2018 The results of The Schoolwear Association’s second industry awards, which were celebrated at a presentation in October following the first day of The Schoolwear Show 51: PAVING THE WAY FORWARD How schoolwear manufacturer Rowlinson Knitwear is steering its efforts to facilitate the business’ next phase 54: INNOVATION BY NAME, INNOVATIVE

BY NATURE Michelle Cohen, head of accounts and export at Innovation Schoolwear, discusses the company’s latest developments, including new products and services and improved customer focus

38: THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE The market intelligence resource for data and insights on kids, parents and families

FRONT COVER: W ILD & GORGEOUS www.wildandgorgeous.co.uk UK AGENT: SOLOBI 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 03

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COMMENT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

COMMENT The year 2018 was an eventful one for small businesses; GDPR, business rates relief and of course, the ever-present uncertainty of Brexit. And, whilst I’m sure 2019 will come with its own share of developments, there are also some exciting advances in the pipeline for the childrenswear industry.

As you will discover this issue, many of the industry’s trade shows are evolving for a/w 19. For instance, the UK’s largest childrenswear trade show, INDX Kidswear, is expanding yet again with the opening of a third showroom bringing the event’s line-up to over 200 brands. Top Drawer, which is joining forces with Pulse London in September 2019, continues to build on its kids’ destination PLAY, offering design-led toys, interiors, gifts and childrenswear. Plus, the a/w 19 edition of Pitti Bimbo is set to host inspiring new collaborations and over 551 collections. Meanwhile, children’s fashion trade show Bubble is relaunching at Pure London on 10-12 February 2019 at Olympia London, enabling Pure to now offer its visitors womenswear, menswear, childrenswear and sourcing show Origin all under one roof.

Elsewhere, Picaflor, organiser of the Playtime trade shows in Paris, New York and Tokyo, is adding a new destination to its calendar with the launch of Kid’s Hub Las Vegas in February 2019. Ciff Kids is rebranding to Ciff Youth, bringing with it new designers and brands as well as a new, independent location within Bella Center, whilst Dot to Dot London is moving to the new venue of The Crypt on the Green in Clerkenwell and is introducing visitor workshops. Finally, Mini Mode, the new platform to showcase kids’ fashion during London Fashion Week, is expanding from a one-day to a two-day event.

In the schoolwear section this issue we bring you coverage of the SA Awards 2018 as well as the latest happenings at Rowlinson Knitwear and Innovation Schoolwear. Over the coming weeks cwb-online.co will also be reporting on a major issue concerning the Welsh Government and a review of school uniform, which The Schoolwear Association is closely monitoring. If you haven’t done so already, why not sign up to our schoolwear newsletter to ensure you receive the latest news directly to your inbox?

It’s quick and simple to do, just register your email address on the homepage of our website.

If you have reservations regarding the business year ahead, one form of support to consider is joining your industry’s trade body, whether that be The Childrenswear Association (NCWA) or The Schoolwear Association (SA). Maybe membership is something to look at in 2019 if you aren’t already involved?

On that note, I’d like to sign off by wishing you all a healthy, happy and prosperous New Year.

Don’t forget, you can stay updated throughout the season by following cwb-online.co and our social media channels.

Laura Turner, Editor

EDITOR LAURA TURNER laura@cwbmedia.co.uk SALES MANAGER MICHELE ALI michele@cwbmedia.co.uk DESIGNER MICHAEL PODGER podgerdesign@outlook.com REPROGRAPHICS/PRINTING IMAGE DATA GROUP LTD 01482 652323 cwb-online.co CWB is published 4 times per year by NCWA, 3 Queen Square, Bloomsbury, London WC1N 3AR +44 (0) 20 7843 9488 | enquiries@ncwa.co.uk | www.ncwa.co.uk Copyright© 2018 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither NCWA nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

CWB is a fashion business publication owned and produced by The Childrenswear Association.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 05

CWB-ONLINE.CO | NEWS

NEWS ROUND-UP NEW RETAIL CONCIERGE SERVICE TO SUPPORT INDEPENDENTS IN LONDON’S WEST END

PULSE LONDON JOINS FORCES WITH TOP DRAWER UK industry event Pulse London is moving from a standalone event to a co-located one at Top Drawer.

Pulse will join Top Drawer for both the s/s and a/w editions, with the first taking place on 8-10 September 2019 at Olympia London.

Alejandra Campos, event director at Top Drawer, says: “Highly regarded by buyers, Pulse has always been at the forefront of industry trends, presenting the next wave of design talent and cutting-edge content, making it the perfect addition to Top Drawer.

“With the re-location of Pulse, our visitors will now have access to the UK’s largest platform of commercially-ready emerging brands, affirming Top Drawer’s place as the home of leading design-led brands and new talent.”

London landowner Grosvenor Britain & Ireland has launched a new Retail Concierge Service to support smaller independents setting up shop in the capital’s retail heartland.

The service includes project management of the store opening and help sourcing cost-effective contractors and quality fittings and furniture. It also supports the set-up and management of utilities and provides access to marketing and PR services. Post-opening it enables access to rich customer data for the local customer base as well as recommendations for cost-efficient general maintenance providers and staff training on a budget.

Commenting on the service is Tor Burrows, director of placemaking at Grosvenor Britain & Ireland. “With so many young and independent brands on the estate, we are acutely aware of the stress and time that is involved in launching a store. Our Retail Concierge Service makes it a lot easier for ambitious retailers to take new space.

We provide critical support and infrastructure in a cost-effective and collaborative way, helping prevent the most common mistakes and accidental overspends. The experience of those on our pilot was phenomenal and we are now excited to be offering this to new brands wanting to come to our estate.”

LITTLE STAR JEWELLERY FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY

NEW KIDS’ NIGHTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

Premium jewellery brand Little Star is targeting kidswear independents with gifting options for the whole family. Based on the concept of celebrating special moments it caters for babies, boys, girls and parents. Popular items include pendants for new mothers, diamond pendants for girls and christening bangles. There are also Mummy & Me and Daddy & Me ranges. Key materials include sterling silver, rose gold and diamond. Personalisation is central to Little Star’s concept, with the brand holding all items in stock and ordinarily turning engraved pieces round in three days.

Contemporary POS material, product and lifestyle imagery and star lined gift boxes and accompanying gift bags are also available.

Lola + Blake is a new British-designed brand of children’s nightwear and accessories. Created to be handed down and to stand the test of time both in terms of style and quality - the unisex collection offers three hand-painted designs: Woodland, Dino and Jungle. Pieces include classic cut, 200 thread count pyjamas featuring piping, pockets and pearlised buttons together with matching fully-lined canvas wash bags.

Other highlights include cotton knit babygros with scratch cuffs and dribble bibs. The brand also offers 200 thread count quilts that can double-up as playmats or bed spreads, four different gift sets comprising combinations of the products and wrapping paper.

KID’S HUB LAS VEGAS BY PLAYTIME Picaflor, organiser of the Playtime trade shows in Paris, New York and Tokyo, is adding the new destination of Las Vegas to its calendar. The first edition takes place on 4-5 February 2019 at Planet Hollywood, Las Vegas. Tailor-made for American buyers, it promises a stimulating environment aimed at supporting meetings and orders. The new project follows Playtime New York’s double increase in visitors in both February and August 2018.

Elsewhere, Picaflor continues its strategic changes to both Playtime Paris and Tokyo, including improvements to the live-experience at Playtime Paris together with new services for exhibitors and buyers. Meanwhile, Playtime Tokyo on 4-6 February 2019 is set to host a special party to celebrate its 10th anniversary.

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NEWS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

A MONDAY IN COPENHAGEN JOINS LITTLE ICONS

DOT TO DOT LONDON 11 Children’s trade show Dot to Dot London will host its 11th edition on 1-2 February 2019 from the new venue of The Crypt on the Green in Clerkenwell.

Key a/w 19 returns include British brands Poco Nido, Knit Planet and Twinkledust and from further afield, Korean favourites Bebebebe and Licomas, Spanish label Violeta E Federico and German brand Infantium Victoria.

International newcomers include Greta’s Room from Spain, Latvian label Rock’n’Mouse, Lule Design from Italy and Loved Ones from the US. Spark, the area of the show for new launch brands, includes Another Fox, Totem and Wildchild London.

New for the show this season is the addition of workshops. Led by industry experts, they will inform visitors on topics including Brexit, buying and sustainability.

CIFF KIDS GROWS INTO CIFF YOUTH In a bid to engage with youth culture in a more meaningful way, children’s fashion trade fair Ciff Kids will become Ciff Youth as of January 2019.

As well as new designers and brands, the refreshed platform will also include new offerings in lifestyle, sports and art. Furthermore, from January 2019, Ciff Youth will take place alongside Ciff in a new, independent location within Bella Center.

Ciff Youth takes place on 30 January to 1 February 2019.

Danish childrenswear brand A Monday in Copenhagen is joining UK childrenswear agency, Little Icons. The brand for baby up to 14 years is the creation of Anne Katrine Montag, former designer of Mini A Ture. Each collection features a carefully defined colour universe and a focus on quality, with fabrics based on 100 per cent organic or Oeko-Tex certified materials.

A/w 19 and s/s 19 appointments are available. Buyers can view the collection in London from 13 January 2019 and also at Playtime Paris on 26-28 January 2019.

BLADE & ROSE TEAMS WITH WWF Childrenswear brand Blade & Rose has collaborated with WWF on a new range of organic leggings.

Ten per cent of the sales from the range will go to WWF, supporting its mission to create a world where people and wildlife can thrive together. In keeping with the brand’s iconic designs, each of the five leggings for the WWF campaign features a vulnerable animal on the bottom: a tiger, elephant, panda, rhino and marine turtle.

BUBBLE @ PURE LONDON Children’s fashion trade show Bubble is relaunching at Pure London on 10-12 February 2019 at London Olympia. Bubble @ Pure London will play host to childrenswear brands including Chloe Ann, Agatha Ruiz, Braemar Kids, Little King, Mazel Trading, Princess and The Cake, Witch & Witch (pictured) and Ty Toys, with its new Ty Fashion range.

Gloria Sandrucci, head of sales at Pure London, says: “News of Bubble’s closure caused huge disappointment in the industry. Following Pure London’s sale to ITE Group, our introduction of Pure Kid last season, and lengthy research amongst retailers and brands, it became apparent how much the industry wants and needs a platform for kids. Pure London now offers its visitors womenswear, menswear, childrenswear and sourcing show Origin all under one roof, creating London’s largest festival of fashion.”

MINI MODE RETURNS FOR THIRD SEASON Mini Mode, the new platform to showcase kids’ fashion during London Fashion Week, is returning for its third season. Expanding from a one-day to a two-day event, it takes place on 15-16 February 2019 at St Mary’s, Wyndham Place, London.

Founded by UK childrenswear designer Amanda Rabor, Mini Mode covers fashion for toddlers through to teens.

An Industry Show on 15 February will preview a/w 19 collections to professionals including buyers, bloggers, press, digital influencers and celebrities. The Consumer Show on 16 February is open to the general public and offers see-now-buy-now collections for s/s 19 and also children’s entertainment.

Mini Mode is donating 10 per cent of all ticket sales to the Osteopathic Centre for Children charity.

NEWS IN BRIEF Henri Lloyd boys is launching childrenswear in the UK and Europe through its European license partner Brand Machine Group (BMG). With a focus on functional lifestyle clothing, the children’s range for 3 to 15 years reflects the brand’s core values and aims to support a new generation of active and adventurous lifestyles.

BMG is working with strategic retail partners and independents to launch the childrenswear range from January 2019.

A new study commissioned by Royal Mail shows one in five German shoppers have purchased from a UK site in the last three months. Of these shoppers, the average spend on UK websites is £48 per month. German shoppers largely buy from the UK to purchase items that are exclusive, while 65 per cent like to purchase British brands. Furthermore, over eight in ten German shoppers trust items from UK sites not to be fake.

British lifestyle brand Joules has received planning permission to develop its new head office in its home town of Market Harborough. The brand is planning a new 60,000 sq ft facility that will see all of the company’s UKbased head office teams united under one roof for the first time. Work on the new site, which is adjacent to the existing leased head office buildings, begins in early 2019.

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | NCWA

NCWA NEWS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT The exhibition season will soon be upon us, with companies eager to show their designs for the coming autumn/winter season. Despite the fine summer we enjoyed last year, autumn and winter clothing still accounts for more retail sales, whether it be for girls, boys, women or men.

I continue to extol the virtues of visiting exhibitions, whatever your role in the industry. If you are a retailer, you need to see what your competitors will be selling, even if you tend to place your orders via agents or direct with suppliers. Do not forget too to think of refreshing the offer in your store, whether it be bricks and mortar or online or both. Some of the new brands on offer will be household names in the future, so if you choose wisely you will be ahead of the game.

If you have decided as a brand not to exhibit this season, do take the opportunity to look at what each exhibition offers and what it may, therefore, offer you. Visiting an exhibition also gives you the chance to catch up with what other brands are doing as well as to meet up with those you know in the industry and to make valuable new contacts. For agents too, a visit to an exhibition gives you the chance to keep up with trends and fashions.

Do not forget to prepare before you go to an exhibition. Check the list of brands exhibiting, so that you can be sure not to miss anyone you really want to see. If you are an exhibitor make sure you have all the information potential customers will need and expect to have, not just prices and delivery dates, but fibre content and care labelling. If you are dealing with export customers be sure you know what currency you are dealing with and who will be bearing the cost of freight. Above all, let your target retailers know that you will be exhibiting.

It might make all the difference as to whether they visit the show and whether they seek out your stand.

There are two short videos on our website, “How to Walk a Trade Show” and “How to Exhibit at a Trade Show”. Do have a look at them – they should remind you of what you need to do in advance and at the show itself.

At the time of writing, we have just heard that BSI, the British Standards Institution, will remain a member of CEN, the European Standards Institution, post-Brexit. This is good news for the whole of the clothing and textile industry, allowing the UK to have influence over Standards which are the benchmark throughout Europe and which in some cases have to be followed by law.

Are you a member of The Childrenswear Association (the National Childrenswear Association of Great Britain and Ireland)? If not, do look at our website, www.ncwa.co.uk. You can also contact us by telephoning 020 7843 9488, or by emailing info@ncwa.co.uk.

There is so much that membership can offer and you can easily join online. There are not many trade associations that offer membership for as little as £100 + VAT a year.

Elizabeth P Fox Executive Director

NCWA COUNCIL: Chairman: MARK BARNETT, Barnett Agencies Imm. Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH, RSB Associates Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS, David Luke Ltd — COUNCIL MEMBERS: NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent, DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent, DANIELE SISMONDI Brand Stable Agent RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer, EMMA-JANE ADAM Love My Smalls Ltd Manufacturer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX

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FENDI SPECIAL EDITION FOR CHILDRENSALON Childrensalon.com, the online retailer for children’s designer fashion, has launched an exclusive collaboration: Fendi Special Edition for Childrensalon.

The capsule collection marks Childrensalon’s first partnership with the luxury fashion house to create a childrenswear range and presents 16 mix-and-match casual styles for boys and girls. Available for ages 3 to 14 years, the limited-edition collection draws inspiration from Fendi’s ready-to-wear adult lines and includes bomber jackets, T-shirt dresses, polo shirts and track pants.

Fendi Special Edition for Childrensalon is available exclusively online at Childrensalon.com.

SMALLS LAUNCHES MEN’S AND WOMEN’S COLLECTION British brand Smalls, which offers fully traceable merino essentials for children aged 0 to 14 years, has introduced a men’s and women’s capsule collection produced in 100 per cent merino wool.

For men there is long sleeve top and the 24/7 Trouser. The trouser comes in a choice of two weights; 280g, suitable as a smart track or lounge pant and 190g, which is ideal as a ski base layer. The women’s collection includes the V-neck style EverCami, a long sleeve top and the 24/7 Trouser.

Read our blog and follow us on Twitter

THE NATIONAL CHILDRENSWEAR ASSOCIATION OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND Membership is open to everyone involved in the British childrenswear industry.

Associate membership, open to non-British organisations, is now available.

Membership costs from £100.

NCWA | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LITTLE LORD & LADY TARGETS CHINA

FRUGI SEEKS TO INSPIRE FUTURE GENERATIONS FOR A/W 19

UK childrenswear brand Little Lord & Lady has launched a WeChat online store to enable direct sales in China. WeChat is a Chinese multipurpose messaging, social media and mobile payment app with over 1 billion users. The development follows a successful s/s 19 season for the brand exhibiting to trade in Shanghai.

“Using a local application service means the look and feel of the site meets market expectations,” confirms brand director, Katie Lockwood.

Little Lord & Lady is now working to maximise the benefits of WeChat’s key features.

JOULES ENCOURAGES FAMILIES TO GET OUTDOORS British lifestyle brand Joules has commissioned a study into the changing relationship between families and the great outdoors. The research supports Joules’ Let’s Explore campaign in partnership with The Woodland Trust, which includes a downloadable Let’s Explore activity pack.

Findings from the study show 90 per cent of parents surveyed said their kids spend less time playing outside than they did when they were children. Furthermore, 41 per cent of parents have never played conkers with their children and over a third have never built a woodland den.

Claire Tait, Joules’ head of marketing, says: “Our Let’s Explore activity pack created with The Woodland Trust will hopefully encourage and inspire families all over the country to put on their coats and wellies, get outside and explore the great outdoors, whatever the weather.”

LILLY + SID LAUNCHES STARRY NIGHT COLLECTION Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first moon landing, Lilly + Sid’s a/w 19 collection for 0 to 8 years looks to the night skies for creativeness. Highlights for Baby include prints and appliques featuring Little Bear and Cygnus the Swan constellations, the brand’s biggest collection of reversible pieces and a reintroduction of sets. The a/w 19 Brother and Sister collections for 2 to 8 years are the largest to date and follow the same trends as Baby interpreted in age appropriate styling.

Key developments for Lilly + Sid in 2018 included a record number of new UK stockists, a collaboration with the Natural History Museum and further expansion in Europe, the US and the Far East.

Frugi’s a/w 19 collection, The Brave and The Brilliant, offers childrenswear, homeware, maternity and breastfeeding clothing inspired by courageous historical figures.

New styles in the Baby & Toddler range include the Rory Reversible Pull Ups with a white rhino all-over print, a tribute to Sudan the last male white rhino.

The Kids’ range for 2 to 10 years includes the return of the popular Sofia Skater Dress, which for a/w 19 features endangered animals such as tigers, pandas, gorillas and orangutans.

Meanwhile, a first for the brand is the Jordan Printed Jeans. Inspired by palaeontologist Mary Anning they feature an all-over white dinosaur design applied by laser. New Playtime Character Backpacks are also available in a choice of three animal designs.

NEWS IN BRIEF UK childrenswear agency Solobi is representing Mani, the new teen outerwear collection from the company behind Mini A Ture, which is set to launch for a/w 19. Other brands in Solobi’s portfolio include Unauthorized, The Little Tailor, One We Like, Wild & Gorgeous, Mini A Ture and Billy Loves Audrey.

The John Lewis Partnership has begun the search for a successor to Sir Charlie Mayfield, who will step down as the Partnership’s fifth chairman in its nearly 100-year history during 2020. The process for selecting a new chairman has been extensively modernised and will be overseen by a Nominations Committee comprising two elected directors, two independent non-executive directors and the chairman. The new chairman will be announced in the second half of 2019.

It is with regret and sadness we announce the death on Saturday 24 November of Mrs Carmenza Denison, wife of Henry. Carmenza was known to many in the industry from the Pretty Originals stand at exhibitions including Premier Kids, INDX Kidswear and Bubble London.

Her enthusiasm for the industry, and her designs in particular, were infectious and her presence has been much missed during her fight against cancer. Carmenza’s funeral was held on Monday 17 December at South Essex Crematorium.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 09

CWB-ONLINE.CO | LEGAL ADVICE

OPEN TO BUSINESS BRINGING YOU STRAIGHT–TALKING LEGAL ADVICE

Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.agentlaw.co.uk

HOW CAN PRINCIPALS ‘SQUEEZE’ THE AGENCY TO REDUCE PAYMENTS TO AGENTS? Terminating an agency agreement can be very costly.

Commercial agents are entitled to many rights and protections: damages for failure to give the appropriate termination notice, pre-termination commission, post-termination commission, back commission and compensation or indemnity.

Whilst some entitlements (such as post-termination commission) may be excluded in the agreement, most of them cannot.

With this in mind, some principals have been creative in reducing their agents’ entitlement to compensation within the confines of the Commercial Agents Regulations.

The compensation due to a terminated agent is calculated by reference to the value of the agency at the time of termination to a notional third party purchaser. In turn, this will be affected by the commission earned by the agent prior to termination.

In respect of compensation, the valuation of an agency: • is a reflection of reality determined by reference to the agent’s net income stream; and • takes into consideration factors such as the health of the agency and the market for the brand at termination.

So by decreasing the net income stream of the agency, the principal will be able to significantly reduce the amount of compensation due to the agent at the date of termination.

Whilst not a new strategy, suppliers are now adopting what appear to be new tactics in an attempt to limit the compensation which may eventually be payable.

One tactic consists of excluding variants of existing designs or “sub-brands” from the range covered by the agency agreement. By taking advantage of loosely defined terms in the agency agreement, a principal stands a reasonable chance of achieving its objective easily.

Another example is shown by turning a key customer account into a house account.

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This can be achieved by relying on a clause in the agency agreement which entitles the principal to turn a customer account into a house account – usually with a payment being made to the agent. In this situation, the principal is anticipating that such a payment made now will be cost effective in the future by reducing the amount of compensation which will be payable when the agency agreement eventually comes to an end.

This is due to the fact that the sales generated from this account will no longer be included in the calculation of the compensation.

The same result can also sometimes be achieved by the principal informing the agent that the principal is taking back the account and then trying to sweeten the pill by promising the agent a reduced commission on the account (as the agent is no longer involved in servicing the customer), which the principal has in mind to further whittle away over time. In this situation, the principal is taking a chance that the agent will not claim that the principal’s action is a material breach, which would entitle the agent to treat the agency agreement as terminated and claim under the Regulations.

A FORM OF HOBSON’S CHOICE? If the agent chooses not to claim material breach, it is unlikely to be sufficient for an agent simply to express his dissatisfaction with the changes introduced by his principal and hope for the best. This is because the agent will be continuing to perform the agency agreement, so allowing his principal more time to implement his “squeezing” strategy.

The agent’s continued performance may also entitle the principal to argue that his agent is prevented from commencing a claim against the principal since the agent will have performed for the agency on the basis of the principal’s changes.

Ultimately the choice is yours. © 2018 Fox Williams LLP

CWB-ONLINE.CO | RETAIL

RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques, as well as news from the world of childrenswear retail.

ACORN & PIP 6-7 Carr Lane, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire Lucy Estherby launched Acorn & Pip online in April 2016 offering sustainable and design-led toys, clothes and décor for kids. Initially started as a project during her maternity leave, Estherby took the business to the next level in November 2018, opening a bricks and mortar store in the village of Slaithwaite in Huddersfield.

The Acorn & Pip shop is best described as a wonderful, eclectic mix. In its previous life it was a gents’ outfitters, which was well-known in the local area. Conscious of retaining the integrity of the shop, Estherby has incorporated the original units, which have been the heart of the store for so many years. Infusing raw wood to contrast against the darker units, she has created a unique look with a fresh, modern edge. Large windows swathe the shop in natural light and as the stock rotates, the shape of the space evolves, offering a new feel with each delivery.

While Acorn & Pip is predominately a toy shop, it also stocks children’s clothes alongside nursery pieces, décor, homeware and books. One side of the store also incorporates a café area serving coffee and cake and there are two dedicated play areas for children.

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In-store events are a focus for 2019. Starting in December with the Sling Library, a baby carrying consultancy, Acorn & Pip will also host photography events and mindfulness sessions for parents. The ultimate goal is for the store to become an intrinsic part of the community, where families come to relax, reconnect and make memories. www.acornandpip.com

RETAIL | CWB-ONLINE.CO

From teaching in the Middle East to opening a shop in the seaside town of North Berwick, Veeann James has had a busy couple of years.

Together with her husband and two young sons, James moved back to the UK a couple of years ago after nine years living in the Middle East.

After settling in North Berwick, she began considering a new career. Having enjoyed working in retail in the past, James created a business plan for a childrenswear shop before opening Coastal Kids in September 2018.

Coastal Kids offers childrenswear, accessories, gifts and fair trade and sustainable toys. A display unit featuring colour-changing LED lights provides a focal point in the shop’s modern, white interior, while well-worn floorboards and a beach hut full of toys adds to the seaside feel.

To develop Coastal Kids, James is currently looking at several ideas involving other local businesses. She is also working on ecommerce and recently undertook shoe fitting training with Start-Rite. www.coastalkidsnb.com

WEBWATCH LITTLE PRINCE LONDON www.littleprincelondon.com

NEWS

COASTAL KIDS 40 High Street, North Berwick, East Lothian, Scotland

Alice Holland launched online boutique Little Prince London in September 2018 to cater specifically for customers looking for stylish yet understated boyswear.

Inspired by blogs she has followed over the years, Holland has chosen a clean website design featuring plenty of white space and high-quality photography. In terms of brands, the store offers Wedoble, Scarlet Ribbon Merino, Bebe Bombom and Weekend A La Mer in ages 0 to 2 years.

The long-term goal for Little Prince London is to become known as the best place to buy clothing for boys, and not just baby boys. To help achieve this, Holland is broadening her age range to also include toddlers and young children starting with a new own-brand sweatshirt collection available up to 8 years of age.

Little Prince London only uses eco-friendly packaging, with purchases wrapped in tissue paper and sent in kraft boxes together with a thank you card made from recycled paper.

NEWS IN BRIEF French Children’s Apparel Ltd (FCA) has brought French childrenswear brand Sergent Major to the UK, with five stores opening in London throughout September. FCA is part of a group of companies including French Childrenswear, which previously traded as Jacadi in London. FCA has the exclusive rights to develop the Sergent Major brand in the UK with plans being to open 30 stores nationwide over the next five years.

Parisian online childrenswear boutique Melijoe has launched an exclusive, limited edition Moncler x Melijoe collaboration. Inspired directly by Moncler’s iconic designs, the onlineonly capsule collection features two mini-me styles: Medis, a puffer jacket in ruby pink and Charleval, a puffer jacket in bondi blue. Available in sizes 4 to 14 years.

MARIE-CHANTAL OPENS NEW LONDON FLAGSHIP Luxury childrenswear brand Marie-Chantal has opened a new flagship store in London. Located on Motcomb Street in the Belgravia neighbourhood, the shop is home to the brand’s iconic Angel Wing collection and baby gifts. This is alongside seasonal girls’ and boys’ collections, special occasion dresses, boys’ suits and a unique curation of jewellery and gift items. Interior designer Fran Hickman, who recently created impressive new spaces for Goop, Moda Operandi and Emilia Wickstead, is the talent behind the new store’s design.

MAMAS & PAPAS UNVEILS FIRST NEXT HOME CONCESSION Mamas & Papas has opened a concession in Next Home at Bristol’s Cribbs Causeway Retail Park.

The first of its kind for the nursery brand, the 2,500 sq ft space offers products for parents and parents-to-be including clothing, nursery furniture and interiors, pushchairs, car seats and gifts. In-store services include group educational events for parents-to-be, personal shopping and a free car seat fitting service. The concession marks Mamas & Papas latest phase of investment in its brand and retail proposition.

Beyondtot.com is a new London-based online shop selling a curated selection of previous seasons’ clothes and accessories for babies and children.

The store covers a variety of designs and styles ranging from eco chic through to heritage. Catering for children aged 0 to 12 years, Beyond Tot’s clothes and accessories are 30 to 40 per cent less than their original price.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 13

CWB-ONLINE.CO | EDITOR’S PICK

01

BRANDS TO WATCH CWB EDITOR LAURA TURNER SELECTS THE MUST-HAVE COLLECTIONS TO GET IN STORE.

14 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

01: ARI LONDON

02: RASPBERRY REPUBLIC

Launched in January 2018, ARI London is the creation of Fatimah Hussain, founder of ARI London Studio. Bridging the gap between luxury and sustainability, all garments are made in-house between Hussian’s two design studios in Scotland and London. Instead of creating seasonal collections, the girlswear label offers clothes that are fluid and transient with a focus on simple silhouettes. Key pieces include silk shorts in nude tones with satin lined pockets and satin playsuits with silk ruffles. Future developments include hand embellished dresses and more designs made in sustainable fabrics. Wholesale prices £35 to £140 www.arilondon.com

Raspberry Republic is a young, organic childrenswear brand based in Warsaw, Poland.

Launched in 2016 by husband and wife Piotr and Magdalena Stepinski, it began as a small collection sold online. Interest from stockists has since seen the brand move into wholesale, with Raspberry Republic now available in over 35 countries. Catering for 0 to 11 years, colourful collections include bodies, leggings, dresses and sweatshirts alongside recent trials in underwear and playwear. The brand is manufactured entirely in Poland under ethical working conditions with a focus on sustainability.

Wholesale prices £7 to £17. www.raspberryrepublic.pl

EDITOR’S PICK | CWB-ONLINE.CO

02

03

04

05 03: TOTEM

04: TOUCAN TOUCAN

05: MANÍ

Totem is the latest venture of Kate Bonhôte who set up the award-winning, London-based brand and concept store, Beyond the Valley. In September 2018, after taking time out to raise her two sons, Bonhôte launched eco-friendly kidswear brand, Totem. Exploring cultural and visual themes, it offers digital printed organic jersey and fleece items designed in collaboration with a different artist each season. The clothes are constructed to be practical, comfortable, durable and fun, with a focus on recycled wool, organic denim and gingham organic cottons. Styles lean towards everyday streetwear as well as nongender pieces. Wholesale prices £12 to £48. www.thetotemkids.com

Launched in June 2018 by husband and wife John and Clementine Pickering, ToucanToucan specialises in gender-neutral, organic sleepwear for children. Pieces include sleepsuits for 0 to 2 years, traditional button through pyjamas and a jersey two-piece for 2 to 6 years, sleeping bags for 0 to 3 years and also swaddles and muslin cloths.

The brand’s prints are key, featuring hand painted illustrations digitally printed onto GOTS certified cotton. All items are available in a choice of six, non-gender defining designs. The core collection prints are ‘leafy’, ‘toucans’ and ‘dino’ alongside the a/w 18 prints ‘desert’, ‘game birds’ and ‘fish’. Wholesale prices £3 to £16. www.toucantoucan.co.uk

The company behind Mini A Ture is launching Maní, a brand-new teen outerwear range providing both style and functionality. Making its debut for a/w 19, the new luxurious outwear offer is designed to appeal to the young fashionista. Responsibly produced, the collection has a strong design signature that addresses the teenage girl with personality and style. The timeless designs do not limit themselves to a specific age, however, and will also appeal to younger girls and mothers. Maní is represented in the UK by childrenswear agency Solobi.

Wholesale prices on request. www.solobi.co.uk DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 15

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PRODUCT

LAURA LOVES

MONICA RICHARDS

THE BOOK OF YOU

WEE GALLERY

Shark Wall Head sales@nomadoriginals.co.uk www.nomadoriginals.com

Keepsake childhood journal for ages 1 to 16 years hello@colourchronicles.com www.colourchronicles.com

Nature-inspired number cards rachel@5minutes.eu www.weegallery.com

LELLO

SPOTS & STRIPES

CLOCKWORK SOLDIER

Bunny night light by Teeny & Tiny cecile@lellokids.co.uk www.lellokids.co.uk

Earth-friendly skin and body care for tweens and young teens charlotte@spots-and-stripes.com www.spots-and-stripes.com

Create your own Giant World Map info@clockworksoldier.co.uk www.clockworksoldiershop.co.uk

16 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

1/2 FEBRUARY 2019 The independent children’s trade show for design led brands and new designers

MadPax backpacks are for those, unafraid to face the jungle out there and make perfect gifts for kids or those of us who remain kids at heart. www.madpaxworld.com E: sales@madpaxworld.com T: 01132 843477

Poco Nido are an award winning British brand specialising in barefoot infant and children’s shoes. This season view the new collection of soft soled Mini Shoes and be among the first to see their new flexi rubber soled, chrome free leather Mighty Shoes™️ at Dot to Dot. Sizes Eur 17-26 salesandpress@poconido.com

wholesale.poconido.com

• poconido.com

www.dottodotlondon.com 11th Edition for A/W19, The Crypt on the Green, London

THE AGENTS DIRECTORY RMR BRANDS LTD RMR Brands Ltd represent a selection of exclusive high end Spanish baby & childrenswear brands such as Miranda, Dolce Petit, Rochy, Naxos, Cesar Blanco, Loan Bor, Popys and Aurea Knitwear.

Our highly sought after brands bring quality craftsmanship, beautiful fabrics and timeless designs to the UK and Irish market directly from Spain. We have seen our exclusively chosen client portfolio go from strength to strength over the last 6 years.

Our hand picked collections are displayed in our showrooms every season – in both Essex and Leeds, ensuring we meet the demand of the entire UK market.

Contact details: Rosa Ruiz Email: rosamruiz1974@gmail.com Mob: 07958 575068 RMR Brands Ltd, Waterhouse Business Centre, Chelmsford, Essex CM1 2QE

GLL WORLD BABY AGENCIES GLL World Baby agency is an experienced fashion company founded in 2011.

Specialized in the representation and distribution of kids clothing, it offers a high level of product and market expertise. The aim is to show and sell the finest collections in children’s wear and to offer to our suppliers and customers a good and transparent service. We are also high level children’s toys and exclusive distributors.

Contact: Mobile: 07388 368940 Telephone: 0141 258 0542 gllworldbaby@gmail.com

TO BOOK YOUR ADVERT, PLEASE EMAIL MICHELE ALI ON MICHELE@CWBMEDIA.CO.UK

CWB-ONLINE.CO | TRADE SHOWS

EXHIBITION CALENDAR CWB’s guide to the upcoming UK and international trade shows.

CHILDREN’S CLUB

PLAYTIME PARIS

06-08 January 2019 Jacob Javits Center, New York www.ubmfashion.com

26-28 January 2019 Parc Floral, Paris www.iloveplaytime.com

–

–

CBME TURKEY CHILDREN BABY MATERNITY EXPO

CIFF YOUTH

09-12 January 2019 Istanbul CNR Expo Centre, Turkey www.cbmeturkey.com –

TOP DRAWER S/S19

30-January – 01 February 2019 Bella Center Copenhagen www.ciff.dk –

DOT TO DOT LONDON

13-15 January 2019 Olympia London www.topdrawer.co.uk

01-02 February 2019 The Crypt on the Green, London www.dottodotlondon.com

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–

PITTI BIMBO

FIMI

17-19 January 2019 Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com

01-03 February 2019 Pabellón de Cristal, Casa de Campo, Madrid www.fimi.es

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THE TOY FAIR 22-24 January 2019 Olympia London www.toyfair.co.uk

–

SPRING FAIR 03-07 February 2019 NEC, Birmingham www.springfair.com

KID’S HUB LAS VEGAS

BY PLAYTIME 04-05 February 2019 Planet Hollywood, Las Vegas www.gotokidshub.com –

PLAYTIME TOKYO 04-06 February 2019 EBiS 303, Tokyo www.iloveplaytime.com –

INDX KIDSWEAR 10-11 February 2019 Cranmore Park, Solihull www.indxshow.co.uk –

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON 10-12 February 2019 Olympia London www.purelondon.com –

PLAYTIME NEW YORK 10-12 February 2019 Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building, New York www.iloveplaytime.com

INDX KIDSWEAR

PITTI BIMBO

TOP DRAWER

MODA FOOTWEAR 17-19 February 2019 NEC, Birmingham www.moda-uk.co.uk –

HARROGATE INTERNATIONAL NURSERY FAIR 24-26 March 2019 Harrogate Convention Centre, Harrogate www.nurseryfair.com –

PULSE 12-14 May 2019 Olympia London www.pulse-london.com –

MAKE IT BRITISH LIVE 29-30 May 2019 Business Design Centre, London www.makeitbritishlive.com

OUT OF THE ORDINARY Our extraordinary and distinctive edit of all things kids gathers the most original design-led toys, interiors, gifts and childrenswear so you can create something out of the ordinary.

Register at topdrawer.co.uk/CWB

13—15 JANUARY 2019 OLYMPIA LONDON

Image Credits: Londji | Wee Gallery | S C Brands | Little Concepts

S/S 19

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

TOP DRAWER S/S19 Curated lifestyle show Top Drawer returns to Olympia London on 13-15 January 2019 for its S/S19 edit. Amongst its 11 sectors is PLAY, a destination for all things kids, showcasing design-led toys, interiors, gifts and childrenswear.

FIONA WALKER ENGLAND

PLANTOYS

Breaking boundaries and defining trends, Top Drawer will present a global edit of the very best products across the lifestyle spectrum for its S/S19 show. Taking place at Olympia London from 13-15 January 2019, the show will offer an expert selection of more than 1,500 design-led brands across 11 curated lifestyle sectors including PLAY, the new dedicated kids’ area.

Returning after a successful September launch, PLAY brings with it a unique curation of children’s products ranging from textiles and clothing through to beautiful treasures that will capture the imagination of both kids and their parents.

From playroom details and toy-chest treasures to covetable clothing and accessories, an abundance of inspiring pieces will be showcased from the likes of Bertoy and Londji. New products to watch include Djeco’s designed craft kits, a unique range of colour-in trainers from Jex and puzzles, premium wooden toys and timeless pieces to evoke a sense of nostalgia from And The Little Dog Laughed. S-C Brands, meanwhile, will showcase its ranges of toys, children’s clothing, nursery accessories, gifts and homewares, offering buyers a one-stop-shop across a range of kids’ products.

TY FASHION

20 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

Names to look out for within PLAY this season include: 1 Two Kids, Bling2o London, ChunkiChilli Knitwear, Clockwork Soldier, Craftholic UK, Daisy & Bump, Diddywear, Elbelle UK, Five Minutes, From Babies with Love, Hatley UK, Little Concepts, MCH Baby Gifts, Kitpas, Noook, The Porch Fairies, ThreadBear Design, Usborne Publishing, Vekemans Bvba Bertoy, Zippy Baby, TY UK, Penguin Books, Oli & Carol, Grass & Air and KidCentral.

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LOVE MAE

BLING2O LONDON

GRASS & AIR

1 TWO KIDS

OLI & CAROL

REGISTRATION FOR TOP DRAWER IS OPEN NOW, VISIT WWW.TOPDRAWER.CO.UK TO GUARANTEE YOUR PLACE.

PICCA LOULOU

CLOCKWORK SOLDIER

AND THE LITTLE DOG LAUGHED

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 21

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

PITTI BIMBO Pitti Bimbo, the leading international trade show for kids, returns for a/w 19 with a focus on research and lifestyles.

The 88th edition of international kids’ fashion exhibition Pitti Bimbo will take place at Fortezza da Basso, Florence, on 17-19 January 2019. Presenting over 551 collections, 357 of which are international, the event expects to attract around 10,000 visitors.

Pitti Bimbo’s theme for a/w 19 is The Pitti Box, which represents the event’s varied, ever-changing content. ‘Pitti Boxes’ will bring the theme to life, creating a multi-sensory journey for visitors ranging from a large indoor arena dedicated to sharing food and ideas through to a series of ‘fun boxes’, which include a special video art gallery.

In terms of the show’s areas, Apartment returns with its curated line-up of sophisticated clothing and accessories collections. Brands this season include Belle Enfant, Caramel, Hucklebones, Leoca, Piccola Ludo, Pom D’api, Raspberry Plum and Velveteen.

Meanwhile, KidzFizz, the fair’s hall of creativity, sees a line-up including Agneau, Bandits London, Carbon Soldier, Duo Boys and Mini Me Girls, Gosoaky, Hilda.Henri, Infantium Victoria, Mini

22 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

Rodini and Wolf & Rita.

One of Pitti Bimbo’s newest areas, #ActiveLab, represents collections blurring the boundaries between technical clothing and leisurewear. This season it will take place in the Archivi complete with a dedicated new layout. Expect to see labels such as ACBC, Barn of Monkeys, Carlijnq, Gardner and the Gang, It’s in my Jeans, Loud Apparel, Mousse Kids and Nununu. Also housed in the Archivi as of this season is Nest, the show’s offering of directional, emerging labels. Exhibitors in this area include Apocalypto Kids, ARI London, Hannah & Tiff and The New Society.

Offering collections with ethics and sustainability at their core is EcoEthic. A/w 19 signings in this area include Dear Eco, Filobio, Kidiwi Handmade, Maxomorra, Mini-la-Mode, Naturapura, Twin and Chic and Wooly Organic. Elsewhere, Kids Evolution is the section of the show dedicated to designers creating mini-me versions of adults’ collections.

Other developments this season include the show’s lifestyle

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

17-19 January Fortezza da Basso, Florence www.pittimmagine.com

space, Fancy Room, which has doubled in size for a/w 19. Offering everything from interior décor through to gadgets and toys, brands in this area include A Little Lovely Company, Affenzhan, Franck & Fischer, Jellycat, Kiddimotto, Matchstick Monkey, Moulin Roty, Plan Toys and Play & Go. The main area of the show is the go-to for large, global kids’ fashion labels such as C.P. Company, Little Marc Jacobs, DNKY, Miss Blumarine, Monnalisa, Oilily, Roberto Cavalli and Timberland.

The Sport Generation hall, which focuses on sportswear, outerwear and leisure-led collections, will play host to leading international brands including Molo and Woolrich Kids. The show’s SuperStreet area offers collections centred on denim as well as those influenced by sport and activewear.

For exhibitors, Pitti will present Nice Licensing, a space presenting 20 key licenses relevant to fashion, including National Geographic, Miffy, Felix The Cat, Ghostbusters and Popeye.

Other content includes the addition of KidsLab, a new

programme of family-friendly workshops created in conjunction with Florence’s leading museums. Described as an “edutainment” project, it will see representatives from a selection of museums welcome young visitors to take part in some more educational forms of entertainment.

Finally, Pitti Bimbo will host three fashion shows this season, presenting a selection of brands from #ActiveLab, Apartment and KidzFizz. Shows will also be hosted by Monnalisa, Stefania and Children’s Fashion from Spain.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 23

BUBBLE AT PURE LONDON AW19/20 10-12 February 2019 Olympia London

purelondon.com/bubble-at-pure

REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

EMBRACING COLOUR Industry expert Fiona Coleman selects five important colour stories for a/w 19/20.

FIONA COLEMAN Fiona is a colour and trends consultant for brands and retailers working on bespoke projects. She is a regular speaker at events and a member of the British Textile Colour Group. With extensive industry experience, she has headed up teams at WGSN, Paul Smith and Uniqlo. www.fiona-coleman.com

ALL FIRED UP Orange continues to grow in importance for a/w 19/20 as a bright sportswear shade alongside cinnamon and deep red. This trio is used either individually or together for a burst of autumnal warmth. Burnt oranges emphasise the intense, natural pigments and earth tones we’ve seen emerging for adults and should translate commercially for the childrenswear market.

BRITANNICAL

LE MU

LITTLE LORD & LADY

MINI A TURE

>>> DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 25

CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

GREEN STATE Retro-inspired, true greens are an important new group for men’s and womenswear this season. For kids, shades are brightened slightly to work across babies’, boys’ and girls’ product. An alternative to the commercial blue family, deeper shades work across unisex product while pale green brings to mind cosy knits and ethereal, shimmering party dresses.

WILD & GORGEOUS

BRITANNICAL

LITTLE LORD & LADY

LE MU

ASTRAL AURA

RASPBERRY REPUBLIC

BRITANNICAL

26 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

MÜSLI

Lilac tones continue to influence both purple and blue this season, becoming even more important for casual, denim, sports and party. A cool tinted pastel and a bold violet are both versatile and can work across genders and ages, whilst a deep, celestial blue is commercial and universal. These are sophisticated shades that work tonally or as singular notes.

LILLY + SID

REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

BERRY TONES For a/w 19/20 intense yet natural shades of pink dominate, superseding the artificial, millennial pinks we’ve previously seen. Deep raspberry and damson complement a warm rose pink. There isn’t a pastel in the range of fashion pinks this season - although it continues as a classic - the trend is for more interesting, tonal variations.

LITTLE LORD & LADY

FRED’S WORLD

PIGEON

LE MU

MOCK BRIGHTS Colour is expressed in abundance this season, although the newest shades aren’t true brights. We look to off-kilter primary and secondary hues such as petrol blue, sulphur yellow and lipstick pink for interesting harmonies. Impact is given by strength in colour, with either bold combinations or use as an accent in a palette of darks or neutrals.

WILD & GORGEOUS

RASPBERRY REPUBLIC

LITTLE GREEN RADICALS

MANÍ

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 27

CWB-ONLINE.CO | PREVIEW

INDX KIDSWEAR On 10-11 February 2019 INDX Kidswear will host its largest show to date with a line-up of over 200 brands.

MINI-LA-MODE

ART & EDEN

INDX Kidswear, the UK’s largest kidswear trade show, is increasing its exhibition space once again this season. The development follows two successful shows in 2018 where the event opened a second showroom, raising the brand offering to over 150. The a/w 19 show on 10-11 February will occupy a third showroom, bringing the line-up to more than 200 brands.

“Every season, INDX Kidswear attracts an increase in registrations, visiting buyers and exhibiting brands,” says show organiser Varsha Chohan. “However, it is important the show continues to evolve whilst still concentrating on delivering a focused and relevant product mix. Our buyers come from a broad range of retailers, from specialist boutiques to department stores. They are looking to source items and place orders across all age ranges and product categories spanning everyday items to special occasionwear.”

Among INDX Kidswear’s new signings this season is leading Spanish brand Tutto Piccolo and French label Petit Bateau. The Mayoral Group will also be debuting its new special occasionwear brand Abel & Lula while St Bert’s will be showcasing its retroinspired childrenswear. Also new is the brand portfolio from Gary Kirkland Agencies, which includes Balloon Chic, Chua, Milon and the sustainable, organic brand, Art & Eden. Other key organic 28 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

PETIT BATEAU

exhibitors include Frugi, Kite, Pigeon and Little Green Radicals.

Those returning following successful debuts at the July show include British pyjama brand Jammie Doodles alongside Ancar and Mini-la-Mode.

Whilst INDX Kidswear is a growing success, the organisers are not resting on their laurels. “We cannot afford to be complacent,” continues Chohan. “INDX Kidswear (formerly Independent Kids) has been established for over 15 years. Over this time, support for the exhibition has grown significantly. The event’s reputation for unrivalled facilities, the largest brand offering in the UK under one roof and a central location served by comprehensive transport links gives it a firm footing. As demand grows from brands, we are keen to maintain a comprehensive line-up that remains commercial and meaningful to buyers. The professional yet relaxed environment is also a key factor and another reason why INDX Kidswear is the must visit show in the UK.” www.indxshow.co.uk

PREVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

INDX KIDSWEAR 10-11 FEBRUARY 2019 CRANMORE PARK SOLIHULL

TUTTO PICCOLO

BRANDS INCLUDE: A-Dee • Aardvark • Abel & Lula • Abuela Tata • Agatha Ruiz de la Prada • Aigner • All About Emma • Ancar • Angel’s Face • Antonio Villini • Art & Eden • Artesania Chari • Artesania Granlei • Artie • Azul de Colibrí • Babidu • Babiné • Baby Gi • Babybol • Baja Costura • Balloon Chic • Barbaras • Beau Kid • Bebüş • Bella Bambini • Best Years • Big Fisch • Blue Seven • Bluebell & Co • Blueberry London • Blues Babywear • Bonds • Bowtique • Bufi • Calamaro • Candy Bows • Caramelo • Carlomagno • Chamomile Baby • Charli Chair • Cheeky Chimp • Cheeky Chompers • Chipmunks • Chua • Coccode • Coco Collection • Cocote • Cotton Boulevard • Country Kids • Cute Cute • Cutey Couture • Cutey Pie • Ceyber Baby • Dadati • Daga Collection • Dandelion • DOT Baby • Dr. Kid • Dulce Nena • EMC • Emile et Rose • Foque • Frugi • FS Baby • Funky Feet Fashions • Grass & Air • Hatley • iDo • Inch Blue • InCity Kids • Isoki • Jam Jam • Jammie Doodles • Jam London • JbLondon • Jeep • Jelly Bean Accessories • Jim Jamz • Jose Varon • Juliana • Just Lovely • Just Too Cute • Kidiwi • KCL • Kissy Kissy • Kite • Kris X Kids • LaPiyama • Lapin & Me • Leon Shoes • LiaLea • Lilly + Sid • Little Darlings • Little Fella • Little Giants • Little Green Radicals • Little Lord & Lady • Magnola Baby • MarMar • Mayoral • Meia Pata • Milon • Mini-laMode • Mintini Baby • Mitch & Son • Möm(e) • MP Denmark • Nanai • Newness • Nibbling • Nico Dingo • Nursery Time • The Oxford Shirt Company • Pagoda Kingdom • Patachou • Pebble • Pesci Kids • Petit Bateau • Phi Clothing • Piccalilly • Piccola Speranza • Pigeon • Pocholo Socks • Poco Nido • Potwells • Powell Craft • Premier Designs • Pretty Originals • Pureté • Qubies • Rahigo • Rapife • Ricittos • Rochy • Rockahula Kids • Ruth Lednik • Sanchez de la Vega • Sardon • Sätila of Sweden • Seesaw • Sevva • Silly Billyz • Smafolk • Snuggle Baby • Sonia Baby • Spotted Cow Creations • St Bert’s • Steiff • Sundiatic • Sweet Elegance • Teeny Tiny • TNY • Tiny Baby • Toby Tiger • Trespass • Trestelle • Tutto Piccolo • Under the Nile • Watch Me Grow • Weekend a la Mer • Za Za Couture • Ziggle

CHUA

JAMMIE DOODLES

MAYORAL

ABEL & LULA

FRUGI

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 29

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

THE MIDDLE DAUGHTER Deborah Ramswell, former co-founder and designer of No Added Sugar, discusses her new girlswear brand, The Middle Daughter, which launches for a/w 19.

Laura Turner: What’s the story behind the launch of The Middle Daughter?

Deborah Ramswell: In January 2018 we very sadly and unexpectedly had to close No Added Sugar after 17 years of trading. An investment deal we had relied upon fell apart at the eleventh hour leaving us without funding to continue.

Then the same ‘investor’ shockingly went on to take over the brand himself.

It has been a horrible experience and devastating to lose something that we devoted so much to; witnessing someone else impersonating themselves as us has been difficult.

However, I believe a crisis can be liberating.

It has provided us with the opportunity to fuse our extensive knowledge with a passion for fashion-forward girlswear in order to create something new, relevant and accessible. The Middle Daughter is a wonderful new beginning.

LT: After 17 years running No Added Sugar, is there anything you want to do differently with your new brand?

DR: When we took out that metaphoric clean sheet of paper, our unanimous direction was to create design-led, affordable collections exclusively for girls. The design element that has always been pivotal to what we do remains, but to be able to offer the design at a lower price point is very exciting. It will allow us to stock the lovely independent stores that No Added Sugar was too expensive for and therefore the brand will be more accessible to the consumer. We think it’s a win-win.

LT: What is the market level of the brand?

DR: Our intention is to appeal to our No Added Sugar wholesale customers globally, which includes high-end stores, but with this new, 30 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

competitive pricing structure we hope to open up our market to more independents.

The communications we have had thus far with our No Added Sugar customers have been heart-warming. We are so looking forward to introducing The Middle Daughter to them - and everyone.

LT: You’re focusing on girlswear for 4 to 14 years. Is there any chance this could be expanded upon further down the line?

DR: We are open to where this journey takes us but for now, devoting our attention solely to girlswear is hugely compelling. Should we at some point move into boyswear, we would have to get our naming hat on.

LT: What can we expect from The Middle Daughter’s debut collection?

DR: Our own developed prints to sateens, modals and sweats are the foundation of the collection and from which colours and textures arise. I wanted pieces to be really lovely to wear, so soft, lofty sweatshirting is a big focus and has been used across all categories.

Dresses are definitely key, in sateens, jersey, sweatshirting and stretch corduroy, as are separates, with simple outfit-building pieces that combine to create a strong, individual look. Our love for accessories is apparent with coordinating tights, caps and bags, which complete a look.

We’ve approached The Middle Daughter with a directional emphasis. It’s girlswear for girls who are perhaps a little minimalist in their taste, who want something with ease of wear yet without compromising style. The handwriting of the collections will undoubtedly have the flavour of No Added Sugar but with this refined aesthetic. It’s also a true reflection of my personal

style; pared back with standout pieces.

LT: What are your plans for wholesale?

DR: We shall be wholesaling The Middle Daughter globally. We have appointed Solobi as our exclusive UK agent, which will have the collection in its showroom, and we will also be showing to trade at Playtime Paris in January.

LT: Does The Middle Daughter have a website and social media?

DR: The website is currently in development and will launch in the coming months at www.themiddledaughter.co.uk. Our social media is live, we can be found on Instagram (@themiddledaughterlondon) and Facebook (The Middle Daughter).

LT: Where did the name The Middle Daughter come from?

DR: I am a middle daughter myself and the brand name was always going to include ‘daughter’ as we liked the clarity it projected of being exclusively girlswear. When ‘the middle’ arose, it resonated. I guess unconsciously it had been there all the while.

LT: What are the plans for the brand?

DR: In the short-term, to have fun and enjoy the process of creating something new. This is mine and my husband Ric’s third brand-building venture together and I have always loved the creating-part best of all, so I see this as an unexpected gift.

Long-term, who knows? If we can match No Added Sugar’s 17-year life span we’ll know we’re doing something right. www.themiddledaughter.co.uk

A BESPOKE TRADE SHOW FOR ALL INDEPENDENT RETAILERS

10-11 FEBRUARY 2019

‘the original Pima Cotton layette collection’

Poco Nido are an award winning British brand specialising in barefoot infant and children’s shoes. This season view the AW19 collection of soft soled Mini Shoes and be among the first to see their new flexi rubber soled, chrome free leather Mighty Shoes™️ at Indx.

Sizes Eur 17-26 salesandpress@poconido.com

wholesale.poconido.com

• poconido.com

Explore the magical night skies with the Lilly + Sid AW19 collection . Cosmic characters and on-trend silhouettes in the biggest collection to date for the British brand . Signature styles in new print and fabric combinations for that L+S twist expect the unexpected !

Contact wholesale@lillyandsid.com for more info

STAND: 120

OVER 200 BRANDS MANY EXCLUSIVE TO INDX KIDSWEAR

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From cute and cuddly, to fun and frivolous, for every occasion, there’s a Ziggle accessory that’s perfect. Award-winning bibs, zipped suits which take the stress out of changing, knitted leggings with fun characters, bamboo swaddles which regulate temperature...

Great for parents as well as babies – they make wonderful gifts too!

+44 (0)1625 569530 www.ziggle.co.uk

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

32 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

LET’S MEET ANYWARE Jessie Ware, the critically acclaimed singer-songwriter and podcaster discusses the latest string to her bow, her new kidswear brand, anyware.

Laura Turner: With a hugely successful music career, a podcast series and a second baby on the way, what inspired you to launch your own children’s clothing line?

Jessie Ware: I have always loved buying clothes and really hold onto my favourites, things that I have worn and will wear for years because they are so timeless. When I had my daughter, this was no different. I was heartbroken when she grew out of my favourite outfits (I would sometimes buy the same jumper in a bigger size).

When I realised how much of my daughter’s outgrown clothing I was storing in my loft I thought, ‘there must be an answer to this?’

LT: The brand was developed by George Reddings, the designer behind Little Bird by Jools Oliver for Mothercare. What was your initial concept and how did George help bring it to life?

JW: I have a very clear idea of how I like to dress my daughter, but that was it. I knew what I liked and what I didn’t like. From the moment I met George it was so exciting. She brought her knowledge of design and building a collection and completely understood and steered my enthusiasm into tangible and creative ideas.

After some great brainstorming sessions and design meetings it all started to fall into place.

LT: How would you sum up the look of the collection?

JW: The designs are boxy, oversized shapes, which are easy to wear and quite minimal. All of the fabrics are natural - cottons and linens - and the colours are fun and sophisticated. I didn’t want anything too neutral or black, but I wanted something that would work for both boys and girls. It’s not really about slogans or graphics that become subjective, it’s much subtler than that.

LT: What does the collection comprise?

JW: There are tops and bottoms that can be mixed and matched together. Also, playsuits and dungarees that can be worn with something underneath or over them or simply on their own.

We wanted everything to be very versatile and rather timeless.

LT: The garments are designed to grow with a child. How is this achieved?

JW: We came up with clever ways that ensure each piece can last longer, allowing more wear out of the garments. Features like sleeves and legs that roll up or down, waistbands that synch in or out and tunics that can be worn as a dress or a shirt as the child grows.

LT: Who is your target audience?

JW: We aim to appeal to those who want to have a smaller impact on the environment and to shop differently. It was important to me that we don’t use single-use plastic in our packaging.

Everything is reusable, from the cotton drawstring bags that the clothes are wrapped in through to the recycled cardboard boxes they arrive in.

LT: When and where is the brand officially launching?

JW: We are launching online at anywarekids.com in spring 2019 and we are also showing to trade at Playtime Paris on 26-28 January 2019.

LT: What are your plans for wholesale?

JW: We would love to see our brand in some small, forward-thinking independent shops. It would be a dream to see it in LA and Japan as I think those markets would really get behind the concept. The collection is split into two phases: Phase One is available in February 2019 and Phase Two around June 2019.

LT: Does the brand have social media?

JW: Yes, we are on Instagram - @anyware_kids - as this is where we feel our customers are.

We are using the hashtag #anywarekids for our customers to share pictures with us, as we would love to see how they mix and match items.

We will also be adding Twitter and Facebook as we grow.

LT: You host the podcast series, Table Manners, with your mother where you discuss ‘food, family, and the beautiful art of having a chat’.

Who has been your favourite guest to date?

JW: The guest that made me laugh until I

choked on my food was Alan Carr. However, having Stacey Dooley on was an absolute pleasure for me as I didn’t know much about her beforehand but fell in love with her on the spot, as did my mum.

LT: Will you be discussing the collection on your podcast?

JW: I feel like it is a separate project. I don’t plan on ramming it down the guests’ or listeners’ throats but if it felt natural to come up in conversation then yes, absolutely, I would love to talk about it. I’m sure my mother will beat me to it on that front though.

LT: As a mother, what do you look for in children’s clothing?

JW: I guess I love a little nostalgia; shapes or colours that remind me of my childhood.

Timelessness is key. I’ve always wanted my daughter to feel comfortable and confident in her clothes, so nothing too tight or limiting.

She’s a kid, I want her to play and feel free and her clothes to have an element of fun to them (but also with a little attitude, I love her in a bandana necktie, especially because she is constantly teething so it’s handy and they dress up an outfit). I don’t want her to look like a mini-me or wear anything too on-trend or serious. I think H&M’s Conscious range is great, I always get a good cardi or knit from Zara and I think Nom Nom kids has some cool shapes. I love to window shop on Mama Owl’s website and think Caramel has beautiful outfits, too.

LT: Did you have a favourite item of clothing as a child?

JW: Osh Kosh dungarees, always. Also, an oversized holiday T-shirt and my Kickers.

LT: What are the long-term plans?

JW: We have big plans for anyware as a brand.

The kids’ collection is just the start. It’s all so exciting but for now, you’ll have to watch this space...

Follow anyware on Instagram @anyware_kids DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 33

CWB-ONLINE.CO | BUSINESS

34 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

BUSINESS | CWB-ONLINE.CO

BRINGING NEW LIFE TO THE WORKPLACE CWB learns more about Cuckooz Nest, London’s first co-working space and pay-as-you-go nursery dedicated to supporting working parents and small businesses.

The kids’ fashion industry is full of working parents, many of whom were inspired to enter the business after having children. However, running a company – in any industry – whilst trying to juggle childcare can prove anything but inspiring.

First-hand experience of the all too common work vs. affordable childcare dilemma is what led entrepreneur and mother-of-one Charlie Rosier and her business partner Fabienne O’Neill to launch hybrid workspace, Cuckooz Nest.

1 IN 7 FREELANCERS IN LONDON ARE WORKING MUMS Admittedly, co-working is nothing new. Over the last 10 years it has become the preferred choice for many freelancers, self-employed businesses and start-ups. However, where Cuckooz Nest differs is that it offers a co-working space with a fully flexible, Ofsted registered nursery on-site catering for children aged 0 to 2 years. What’s more, it allows parents to book office and creche space on a pay-as-you-go basis with absolutely no commitment.

Cuckooz Nest has three membership levels to cater for clients’ varying needs, prices for which are all inclusive of the workspace and creche. Flexi membership starts from one hour and requires just 24 hours’ notice to book.

Clients are invoiced weekly in arrears to ease cashflow, with prices starting from £14 per hour.

Monthly membership requires a commitment of eight hours a week minimum.

Clients can book prime sessions in advance or alternatively with just 24 hours’ notice. The cost is £12 per hour, irrespective of whether the client uses eight or 50 hours a week.

Finally, there is also the option of Desk Only membership, which is charged at £400 + VAT per month or £20 +VAT per day. Creche sessions can also be booked on an ad-hoc basis for £12 per hour with 24 hours’ notice.

THE CRECHE Cuckooz Nest’s on-site creche is designed by working mums who understand the concerns new parents have when leaving their child to return to work. Working with professionals from the world’s leading educational institute - UCL Institute of Education - and in consultation with the National Day Nurseries Association, Cuckooz Nest has built a space specifically to cater to the needs of children under two.

Everything from the choice of toys and reading materials through to the sleeping room and nappy changing facilities.

Furthermore, by partnering with Londonbased education and childcare agency Manny & Me, the creche is able to deliver educational programming provided exclusively by Ofstedregistered nannies.

THE LOCATION Cuckooz Nest is tucked away on a quiet cobbled street in the heart of Clerkenwell, one of Central London’s most vibrant neighbourhoods. A short walk into the heart of the city, Clerkenwell also has great transport links, with Cuckooz Nest just five-minutes’ walk away from Farringdon station, London’s newest transport hub, which has access to three tube lines, National Rail and Crossrail.

As well as all of the practical benefits, on a purely aesthetic-level, Cuckooz Nest offers a truly beautiful and inspiring work environment, which is the creation of award-winning designer Leo Wood.

“Cuckooz Nest is a very creative space,” says founder Fabienne O’Neill. “It also has a real sense of community, which we’ve worked really hard to build. We offer a great workspace solution for any ecommerce business, online retailer, designer, agent or stylist working in the childrenswear industry - we’re looking at collaborating with Childrensalon on an event at the Nest soon. Anyone who needs a desk and

regular childcare - from any industry - will benefit from Cuckooz Nest.”

A COMMUNITY OF LIKE-MINDED CO-WORKERS Rosier and O’Neill already run a successful serviced apartment business, Cuckooz, which operates apartments in six locations across London. Prior to founding Cuckooz in 2016, seasoned property professional Rosier held senior positions at property investment firms IP Global and Blackfish in Hong Kong. O’Neill, meanwhile, has almost a decade’s experience managing large scale property, design and technology events. As O’Neill mentions, a key element of Cuckooz Nest is creating a “sense of community” for its members and one of the main ways it does this is through events.

“We have a jam-packed schedule with events running on a weekly basis,” continues O’Neill.

“Our events are so varied, ranging from child nutrition workshops to entrepreneur focussed supper clubs and breastfeeding cafés through to book signings with figureheads such as Vicki Psarias, founder of Honest Mum. “We’ve hosted events with bloggers such as Clemmie Telford (Mother of All Lists - A Collection of Lists About Parenting & Beyond) and Matt Coyne founder of Man vs. Baby and author of the Sunday Times’ bestseller, Dummy.

We’re also running various events aimed specifically at helping small businesses grow.”

Tours of Cuckooz Nest are available to book every Monday and Friday for prospective clients to see the office and creche in action. And if you’re wondering, yes, Cuckooz Nest will soon be opening in more locations.

“We are looking to open our second and third sites in London in 2019, so watch this space,” confirms O’Neill. www.cuckooznest.co.uk DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 35

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

36 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

INTERVIEW | CWB-ONLINE.CO

KIMBA KIDS Former Girls Aloud band member, TV personality and mother of two, Kimberley Walsh, recently unveiled her own kidswear brand, Kimba Kids. Following a successful and exclusive launch at Next online for a/w 18, Walsh is now planning Kimba Kids’ growth, which includes moving into wholesale. Laura Turner learns more.

Laura Turner: What led you into the world of childrenswear and the launch of Kimba Kids?

Kimberley Walsh: After having my first boy, Bobby, I found it extremely boring shopping for him. I felt there was a real lack of colour and print on the high street, particularly for boys.

My brother, Adam, works in design and manufacturing and has the expertise needed to launch a new brand. It was a natural partnership for us to start creating our own collection.

LT: Is Adam still involved in the brand?

KW: Yes, he is very involved in Kimba Kids. He sources the factories, works alongside me on the design and basically makes my ideas a reality.

LT: How would you describe Kimba Kids’ identity?

KW: The brand ethos is all about letting kids be kids. The clothes we design are fun and cool but with an emphasis on being practical and comfortable. We focus on colour and print and kids love wearing it.

“ WE ARE CURRENTLY IN TALKS WITH A NUMBER OF RETAILERS ABOUT STOCKING KIMBA KIDS FOR S/S 19. WE ARE KEEN TO PARTNER WITH SOME KEY RETAILERS, BOTH ONLINE AND BRICKS AND MORTAR.” LT: What does Kimba Kids’ debut a/w collection offer? Also, what can we expect from the upcoming s/s collection?

KW: A/w 18 offers a fab selection of prints with plenty of colour and super comfy shapes for the colder weather. Our colour palette is bright, but not overwhelming. This season we have a signature coloured camo print, which had been a huge success for us.

S/s 19 is also shaping up very nicely; we are extremely excited about that collection.

LT: Where do you source design inspiration?

KW: I take inspiration from everywhere, but primarily my boys, nephews and friends’ kids. We listen to their feedback on what they love to wear and concentrate on those shapes while adding some ‘wow factor’ with our prints.

My oldest boy is very vocal about the range and what he likes to wear. Thankfully he is currently obsessed with the coloured camo print so he’s a happy boy.

LT: What’s the age range for the brand?

KW: Our current age range is 3 to 12 years for girls and boys.

However, I’d love to introduce some baby pieces at some point as well as some matching items in adult sizes, too.

LT: You recently launched a website?

KW: Yes, we have just launched our website kimbakids.com, which we are very excited about. It will give us so much more flexibility when it comes to developing our range, which is really important to us.

LT: Where is the brand currently available?

KW: Kimba Kids is currently available through our new website and also through Next online. We were really happy to discover that Kimba Kids was the first kidswear brand to be stocked on Next’s website. It has given us a lot of confidence when it comes to what we have achieved with our brand already. It’s been a great platform for Kimba Kids.

LT: What are your plans for wholesale?

KW: We are currently in talks with a number of retailers about stocking Kimba Kids for s/s 19. We are keen to partner with some key retailers, both online and bricks and mortar.

LT: Will Kimba Kids be available to view at any trade shows during 2019?

KW: At the moment we are focusing on growing the brand organically. However, we would definitely be interested in participating in trade shows like Playtime Paris in the near future.

LT: Which childrenswear brands do you buy into for your kids?

KW: I don’t tend to go for particular brands. However, as I mentioned, both of my boys are quite opinionated about what they will wear, so they don’t always listen to my suggestions anyway.

LT: What is your go-to store for childrenswear?

KW: I have to say that Next is brilliant for having everything you need under one roof.

LT: What are the plans for Kimba Kids’ development?

KW: At the moment we are focusing on getting the brand established in the UK before we start to focus on international growth. Our retail partners will definitely play a key part in this process. www.kimbakids.com

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 37

CWB-ONLINE.CO | REPORT

AN INSIGHT INTO THE MARKET RESEARCH PEOPLE Nick Richardson, founder and CEO of The Insights People, discusses his dynamic market research company which provides data and insights on kids, tweens, teens, parents and families.

We are delighted to have teamed up with CWB to write a regular column sharing some of our data and insights into the attitudes, behaviour and consumption of children, parents and families.

Firstly, however, I wanted to provide an introduction to who we are, what we do and how our data and insights help shape some of the world’s biggest brands’ advertising, content, licensing, marketing, product and sales strategies.

The Insights People launched Kids Insights UK in May 2017. Since then, we have continued to grow and expand, introducing Parents Insights UK and Kids Insights US. Our vision was to become the most comprehensive and dynamic market intelligence resource on everything kids, parents and families - not just in the UK, but globally. Looking at where we are now, I would say we are on track to achieve that.

Kids Insights UK surveys 400 kids aged 4 to 18 years every single week, which is more than 20,000 every year. Parents Insights surveys 200 expecting and new parents with children up to the age of 4 years every week, so 10,000 different parents a year. Furthermore, we work with some of the most respected research panels in the world to gather our data, all of which is collected ethically and is compliant with GDPR and COPPA legislation.

Due to the frequency with which we survey, together with the size of our data sets, our results have 99 per cent statistical significance. This ensures our survey findings are independent and unbiased, meaning our clients receive a fair, full and honest picture of what is important in the world of today’s kids and parents.

Also, as we are providing information in real-time with expert insights into flash and global trends every quarter, our approach means we are recognised as the go-to insight company by some of the world’s biggest brands including 38 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

Warner Bros., games business SEGA, toy manufacturer Hasbro, trading card company Topps and broadcaster Turner.

We firmly believe market intelligence has never been more important. It is our belief that the sector has failed to innovate, continuing to produce market research that relies on small data samples which are often out-of-date. Our vision is to be the market intelligence company of the future, today, which we achieve by innovating, being agile and utilising technology to provide clients with access to the most comprehensive and dynamic market intelligence available.

Our data and insights are used by brands, retailers and agencies to help inform their decision-making at crucial times of the year, including the run-up to major events such as Easter, the summer holidays, Halloween and Christmas.

THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE TEAM We essentially have three key parts of the business: the product team, the tech team and the commercial team.

The product team is very much the nucleus of our organisation; the glue that holds everything together. We have Jonathan, who is our product manager for Kids Insights and Jenny, our product manager for Parents Insights. They are responsible for working with our team of researchers, strategists and future thinkers to produce our reports.

We then have the tech team headed by Richard, our CTO, which is responsible for turning our vision into reality. Richard and his team work closely with the product managers to oversee performance and future development.

Lastly, we have the commercial team, which in the UK is led by Deborah who is responsible for raising awareness of what we do and

demonstrating the power of our insights to potential clients.

We also have a great board, which includes Howard Blumenthal, who was Nickelodeon’s first head of production and created PBS’s US game show, “Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?”.

So, why is it more important than ever that retailers, manufacturers and marketers are engaging with market research?

The ecosystems of children are evolving faster than ever before. This brings key challenges for business leaders across advertising, content, licensing, merchandise, marketing, product and sales.

Personally, I believe a lot of this change is being driven by the fragmentation of media and the impact of technology, which in turn is enabling children to be more individual than ever before.

From a media perspective, the nucleus of the children’s ecosystems used to be the television. Today, for younger children it is the tablet and for older children the smartphone. As a result, it has never been harder for brands, retailers and manufacturers to reach their intended audience, as it is an audience who has so many options.

Ten years ago, the approach to marketing was based around buying X amount of TVRs and listing to the key retailers. Fast forward to today and it has not only changed significantly, but it continues to evolve at a rapid pace.

Over the past 12 months, our data shows Amazon continually selected by children as their favourite online shop, gaining a significant boost in popularity over the school holidays with an increase of over eight percentage points. We also see Amazon as the top pick for new items amongst parents across all age profiles. Mums particularly favour Amazon for both purchases

REPORT | CWB-ONLINE.CO

and as a platform for video on demand (VOD) and on average we see expecting mothers subscribing to Prime TV make an astonishing 30 per cent more purchases for their child via Amazon compared to non-Prime TV subscribers.

Additionally, as the media landscape continues to fragment, we are seeing many developments in the way the next generation of parents and kids consume content and engage with brands. Facebook is the preferred platform for teenagers – both boys and girls - to keep up to date with their favourite shops. And, although Facebook is behind competitors such as Snapchat in terms of kids’ favourite apps, this shows it is utilised by kids when it comes to keeping up to date with information.

KIDS INSIGHTS UK • Surveys 400 different UK children (between the ages of 4 to 18 years) each week, equating to 20,000 a year.

• Provides all data to clients in real-time via an online portal, which also allows clients to view, filter and interrogate data to their own specific needs.

• Produces four reports every 12 weeks providing insight-led analysis of data, plus hundreds of other data points and resources which are reviewed daily.

PARENTS INSIGHTS UK • Surveys 200 different expecting and new parents (of children between the ages of 0 to 4 years) each week, equating to 10,000 a year.

• Provides all data to clients in real-time via an online portal, which also allows clients to view, filter and interrogate data to their own specific needs.

• Produces four reports every 12 weeks providing insight-led analysis of data, plus hundreds of other data points and resources which are reviewed daily.

To receive a free report, visit www.kidsinsights.co.uk/CWB. For a copy of the Kids Insights 2019 Future Forecast report visit www.kidsinsights.co.uk/futureforecast

KEY PARTNERSHIPS IN 2019 Our partnership with SuperAwesome, the kid-friendly technology company, will see us really ramp up our US operation in Q1. As I sit writing this in Chicago, it looks like we are going to have some fabulous brands signed up very quickly to our US service. We’re also aiming to expand into other regions, the plan being to work closely with SuperAwesome to do this.

Our work with the Association of Town & City Management will also expand into 2019.

Plus, we are working on finalising a really exciting partnership opportunity in the UK, which we hope to announce in January and will have some significant interest from the toy industry.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR THE INSIGHTS PEOPLE? In November, we launched our new data portal.

This has further enhanced our service to clients by offering even more data - including cross-

73-75 Lever Street, Manchester, M1 1FL or call +44 (0) 330 159 6631

referencing with Office for National Statistics (ONS) in the UK and the National Census Bureau in the US - to provide illustrative, real-world numbers in addition to the percentages given in our results.

In 2019 we will continue to expand into new territories and, with our award-winning portal technology, clients will also be able to look at our data from a global or region-specific perspective. We will be releasing future details on our expansion in the coming months.

Finally, our Future Forecast 2019 report (which can be downloaded via www. kidsinsights.co.uk/futureforecast) has just been released setting out what we believe will be some of the key trends to look out for. With

nine of our 10 2018 predictions coming to fruition, we are quietly confident that our form will continue for 2019.

So, before you prepare your 2019 strategies and budgets and commit to spending for the coming year, I urge you to think about how in tune you are with your audience and if you can afford not to be the first to know the latest trend. For example, children between the ages of 4 to 6 years who like Paw Patrol are 20 per cent more likely to purchase Paw Patrol toys and games than those who prefer other shows.

By choosing to license a different children’s TV show, you could potentially be missing out on a further 20 per cent of revenue from licensed products.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 39

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INTERVIEW

APPETITE GROWS FOR PUD Frances Bishop, former Apprentice contestant and owner of Pud, a northern independent chain of childrenswear outlets, discusses her growing business.

LT: You recently opened another shop?

FB: Yes, in September we opened a store in Mansfield occupying the Four Seasons Shopping Centre. It’s my first store in a prime retail territory and the reception has been fantastic.

Being an independent amongst nationals feels really good.

We also have another two new stores opening in March 2019, taking the portfolio up to five shops. Once we reach this point we will be looking to ensure systems are in place to support further expansion.

Laura Turner: We last spoke back in 2015 when you had just opened your first stores in Doncaster, Nottingham and Newark. How has business been since then?

Frances Bishop: Since 2015, I’ve doubled both turnover and profits year-on-year, which is some feat in the world of retail nowadays. Both the Doncaster and Newark stores have doubled in size; we’ve found that we really thrive in secondary towns as opposed to city centres.

The business has also evolved to have a very strong personality within the industry. We now operate one of the largest Facebook groups of any independent retailer in the UK along with having the largest independent children’s apparel store in South Yorkshire.

As a concept, we have proved a lot of people wrong. We entered the market at a very crowded time with a great deal of local competition.

However, through our strong values we have come out fighting, going on to win Best Independent Apparel Retailer 2017 in the national Progressive Preschool Awards.

LT: Have you received any other awards?

FB: Yes, in November I won Entrepreneur of the Year in the 2018 Nottingham Post Women in Business Awards.

Last year we won Best Retailer in the Doncaster Business Awards and this year we’ve been shortlisted for the Success through Innovation award thanks to our social media strategies and interaction with customers. We do have a very different way of doing things; people either love it or hate it.

40 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

LT: Given the challenging high street conditions, what do you attribute your success to?

FB: Nationally we have become recognised as a retailer that is genuinely bucking the high street trend. We keep things truly personal and caring in store and all of my team are exceptional in their daily roles. I love high street retail and the connection and relationships it gives you with customers.

Although I read all the doom and gloom in the media, I do believe that over the next five years our high streets will be shaped to leave us with a great assortment of successful retailers and mixed-use properties.

LT: What is The Pud Store’s offering?

FB: We cover everything from children’s shoes and accessories through to everydaywear and occasionwear. You name it, we probably sell it. To fill the gaps in the market left by other retailers we now cover ages 0 to 14 years, too.

LT: How many brands do you stock?

FB: Unlike most independents we get deliveries at least every week, more often than not twice a week, to each of our stores. Sometimes we are so busy we are literally selling out of the boxes. I couldn’t even begin to tell you how many brands we stock as it changes every week. We import a lot as well.

LT: Where do you source brands?

FB: When we first started many brands wouldn’t even answer my calls, which was hard to deal with. Others told me they had retailers in the areas we operated in, so we couldn’t even stock past season items.

Today, I get two to three enquires a week

from brands who want to work with us. Many appreciate the fact we can raise their profile through our prolific use of social media.

LT: What do you provide in terms of customer service?

FB: We do everything from babysitting children in the shop and throwing birthday parties to simply listening when people talk to us. You find customers just want to enjoy their shopping experience and not feel pushed into making rash purchases.

We also show a responsibility to our local communities and try to help each individual customer as much as we can. For example, we often open the shops out of hours if people are travelling to see us. We also care about what we sell to people. When we are selling shoes, for instance, if we know they aren’t right for the child, we won’t sell them to the customer.

LT: Talking of customer care, The Pud Store is promoting the Take a Seat scheme in its stores.

Can you tell me more about this?

FB: The scheme sums up our philosophy perfectly. Grandparents want - and should - be able to enjoy shopping with their grandchildren.

So, by providing seating in our stores they don’t feel rushed and can enjoy the experience, too.

LT: You’re currently bricks-and-mortar only. Do you have plans to sell online?

FB: All of our growth to date has been done without a website, which does shock people.

However, I am currently working with tech experts to create a website unlike anything done in the UK before. It’s something I am investing a lot of money and time in because I know it will allow us to go international.

LT: Would you ever expand The Pud Store concept to the South?

FB: It’s something we are looking at and we have had serious offers of franchising. At this point nothing is being ruled out.

LT: What are your plans for the business?

FB: Ultimately, to prove I’m not bonkers and the high street can still have success stories.

Pud is everything to me and I will do all that I can to make it known across the UK and beyond.

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20/12/2017 20:04

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SCHOOLWEAR BUYER THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

44: NEWS 47: SA AWARDS 2018 The results of The Schoolwear Association’s second industry awards, which were celebrated at a presentation in October following the first day of The Schoolwear Show.

54: INNOVATION BY NAME, INNOVATIVE BY NATURE Michelle Cohen, head of accounts and export at Innovation Schoolwear, discusses the company’s latest developments, including new products and services and improved customer focus.

51: PAVING THE WAY FORWARD How schoolwear manufacturer Rowlinson Knitwear is steering its efforts to facilitate the business’ next phase.

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 43

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR NEWS

SCHOOLWEAR NEWS The latest news from the schoolwear industry.

TRU SCHOOLWEAR TEAMS WITH CARE UK Retailer and supplier Tru Schoolwear of Accrington is pledging its support for Care UK, the Charity Aid Recycling Enterprise. A Cheshire-based charity, Care UK collects and distributes aid to send to refugees in Syria, Greece and the Greek Islands as well as assisting refugees in the UK. Tru Schoolwear made its first delivery to the charity in October, providing hundreds of knitwear and sweatshirt garments. In November a second contribution was made, this time to The Hope Project. The company is now planning future donations.

DAVID LUKE WINS SUSTAINABILITY AWARD David Luke has won the Sustainability Award at the 10th anniversary British Business Awards (BBA) 2018 in China.

David Luke is well-known within the UK schoolwear market for its Eco Uniform made from recycled plastic bottles. However, less than 12 months after opening offices in Nanjing, the family-owned firm is now cementing its sustainability credentials in the Chinese market.

“Since opening our Nanjing office David Luke has become the pioneer in revolutionising the Chinese schoolwear market, promoting sustainable and high-quality school uniform solutions using fabrics made from 100 per cent recycled materials,” says David Luke’s MD, Kathryn Shuttleworth.

The BBA is organised by the British Chamber of Commerce in China.

WILLIAM TURNER APPOINTS HEAD OF SALES

F.R. Monkhouse has acquired Early Years, a leading independent schoolwear retailer based in Solihull. Early Years will operate standalone from Banner and will be run by the existing team overseen by F.R. Monkhouse’s MD, Peter Monkhouse. Early Years’ MD, Gill Phipps, is remaining in the business for a few months. She will ensure a smooth transition before taking retirement.

“Early Years is a super business that has been incredibly well run by Gill and her team,” says Peter Monkhouse. “We were very happy to agree a deal with Gill when she advised that she was looking to retire.”

Phipps, adds: “I am delighted to have secured an exciting and long-term future for the business and all of the Early Years team who have supported me over the years and contributed to making the business the success it is today.

Partnering with Monkhouse means together we can further build on our strong reputation for service and quality with the schools and community we serve.”

Mike Humble is joining William Turner, UK manufacturer and supplier of premium quality ties and accessories, as head of sales.

Humble brings with him over 20 years’ teamwear experience. During that time, he has worked for a raft of leading sports brands including Samurai, Kukri, Puma, Umbro and also JJB. He joins William Turner from the Behrens Group where he established stock and bespoke teamwear solutions for trade customers and sportswear brands.

The third-generation family business is currently preparing to celebrate its 50th anniversary next year and will be embarking on ambitious growth plans. The appointment of Humble to lead the club and corporate wear division is a key part of this future success.

“The appointment of Mike shows our commitment to growth as we celebrate reaching 50 years and look to the future,” says Daniel Turner, MD of William Turner. “Mike’s background means he is well placed to steer the new direction for our club and corporate wear division. He’s got an enviable understanding of the marketplace and knows intrinsically what sports clubs and corporate clients need.”

Humble, who is looking forward to playing a large part in building a stronger club and corporate wear division, adds, “William Turner has a proud heritage as a family business and UK manufacturer and an enviable reputation in the schoolwear sector. I am hugely excited to build on that pedigree to attract more sports clubs, associations and corporate clients with our growing club and corporate wear offering.”

Over the festive period, schoolwear retailer Total Clothing opened a Christmas webshop offering personalised Christmas clothing, accessories and gifts. For children, clothing items ranged from babywear and bibs through to children’s pyjamas and jumpers as well as Christmas-themed fancy dress outfits such as nativity play costumes. For adults, items included T-shirts, jumpers, shirts, dresses and nightwear alongside novelty gifts and accessories.

Trutex recently participated in an anti-bullying event in Blackpool as part of its partnership with The Diana Award. Over 30 schools and 350 young people and school staff joined the event, participating in workshops including drama, dance and art to inject energy into their school’s antibullying campaign. Inspired by Trutex’s Power Blazer, two workshops were held to create bespoke blazer linings with messages of encouragement for people who may be affected by bullying.

MONKHOUSE ACQUISITION OF EARLY YEARS

NEWS IN BRIEF Global stationery brand Maped Helix has created a Roald Dahl stationery set taking inspiration from the popular author’s books. Launched in time for the Christmas season, stationery items in the set include HB pencils, a pencil sharpener, eraser, colouring pencils, a pencil case and notebook. The set also includes a sticker sheet featuring Roald Dahl characters such as Matilda and Willy Wonka, which children can use to personalise their stationery with pictures from their favourite novels.

44 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

ESSENTIALLY ALL YOU NEED APTUS Essentials, Banner’s new stylish entry level sportswear range for Back to School 2019.

Thoroughly researched and designed in-house with a singular focus on school sport, the range has been created to suit all ages, sizes and body types and along with APTUS Performance offers a one stop solution for all your sportswear requirements.

For information about our exciting incentives to support the launch of APTUS Essentials and to request FREE APTUS Essentials samples, contact your Regional Sales Manager or customerservice@banner.co.uk, or call 0333 7000 888.

Visit banner.co.uk to view the full range.

Product – Ten modern multi-purpose garments.

Colour – Vast array of colours across the range that can be mixed with APTUS Performance.

Sizing – Comprehensive sizing offer for both Primary and Secondary students.

Pricing – Attractive prices that work for everyone.

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SCHOOLWEAR | CWB-ONLINE.CO

SA AWARDS 2018 The results of The Schoolwear Association’s second industry awards, which were celebrated at a presentation in October following the first day of The Schoolwear Show.

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST 2018 (LESS THAN 10 FULLTIME STAFF) – Sponsored by David Luke

TOTAL CLOTHING – WINNER Total Clothing has been trading for 29 years, supplying over 125 schools through a multi-channel approach and growing its school market by an average 22 per cent a year over the last five years. Recent developments include redesigned production facilities, two new warehouses, the launch of a green initiative and tours of the business for local primary schools.

— Early Years – FINALIST

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SPECIALIST 2018 (MORE THAN 10 FULLTIME STAFF) – Sponsored by Trutex

STEVENSONS SCHOOL UNIFORM OUTFITTERS – WINNER Founded in St Albans in 1925, Stevensons has expanded from supplying school uniform to around 40 local schools to over 500 schools throughout the UK via 14 high street branches countrywide, 13 school campus shops, over 240 school pop-up selling events a year on school premises and hundreds of school online-shops. The strategy to increase business organically as well as through acquisition has pushed the year-on-year sales forecast to +40 per cent, building on 2017’s 36 per cent increase.

— Fosters Schoolwear – FINALIST

BEST DIGITAL SCHOOLWEAR 2018 – Sponsored by Banner

SCHOOLBLAZER – WINNER Schoolblazer’s website includes its own intelligent sizing solution, with refinements this year meaning parents can now see an avatar of their child.

Investment in infrastructure has seen the business achieve Back to School availability of over 98.5 per cent. Furthermore, 100 per cent of orders are shipped within three days and almost 70 per cent within 24-hours of ordering, which includes the sewing of name tapes free of charge. Today, Schoolblazer serves 150 UK independent schools and eight schools internationally.

— Michael Sehgal & Sons – FINALIST >>> DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 47

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

BEST SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIER 2018 – Sponsored by Marton Mills

DAVID LUKE – WINNER David Luke is well-known for its support of independent retailers and schoolwear stockists, with customers being at the core of everything it does.

Examples include providing sessions with a specialist trainer to show retailers how to complete tenders, inviting stockists to become Eco-School Assessors and providing customers with bespoke marketing materials.

Investment in service level improvements to help customers include an online trade ordering site, dedicated account handlers in customer relations and an increase in stock levels by almost 40 per cent.

— Banner – FINALIST

BEST COMMUNITY PARTNER 2018 – Sponsored by Rowlinson Knitwear

EARLY YEARS – WINNER Early Years has been a proud member of the Solihull community for 50 years since opening its first shop in Knowle in 1968. The business is always on hand to sensitively help those struggling with uniform purchases, including supplying schools with vouchers that can be distributed to the neediest of the pupils, not charging extra for special items and accepting uniform grants from a local Education Foundation Trust. Early Years also supports its schools through sponsorship of tours, music/drama productions and the supply of raffle prizes and backs local charities and fundraising events; in 2017 it sent over £15,000 worth of unwanted uniform to charity.

— Whitakers Schoolwear – FINALIST

OUTSTANDING SERVICE TO SCHOOLWEAR 2018 – Sponsored by William Turner

HEATHER WALKER, TRUTEX – WINNER Heather Walker has been described as having Trutex running through her veins, with her whole working career – over 30 years - dedicated to the firm. Heather began in product development and was instrumental in the launch of key, industry changing products and ranges. Her industry knowledge then led her into a sales role and today she leads the sales team, looking after retail customers and schools across the country. In 2010, Heather joined Trutex’s board of directors.

— Siobhan Margetson, The Schoolwear Centre @Margate – FINALIST

48 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

WINNER BEST SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIER 2018 .

colour and pattern into the uniform market.

As the check pattern is only seen in the inverted pleat it gives a bespoke, high end look for schools who would like to introduce house colours in a subtle way.

Jenifer Nairne, Product Development Manager David Luke Schoolwear

“

START. 2019 ON TREND.

think you know pleats think again!

“IfTheyouinverted pleat is a fantastic way of introducing

Innovation in product development is at the heart of our business. Inspired by market trends, our new launches for 2019 will make it easy for schools to embrace change in a modern, wearable way.

To find out how David Luke can help your business in 2019 call us on 0161 272 7474.

DURABILITY IN MIND ETHICS AT HEART.

DAVIDLUKE.COM

Have you bagged yours?

A new style Primary Book Bag due early spring 2019.* Team with the Bottle Mate, an ideal accessory to carry a water bottle to school.

Also new for 2019 EcoPure Bio Bottle

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www.william-turner.co.uk 0161 480 8582 / sales@william-turner.co.uk

WT_1972_CWB_190x136mm_Ad_Jan 19_AW.indd 1

04/12/2018 15:21

SCHOOLWEAR BUYER THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY

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PAVING THE WAY FORWARD How schoolwear manufacturer Rowlinson Knitwear is steering its efforts to facilitate the business’ next phase.

Over recent years, Rowlinson Knitwear has introduced a number of key developments that are now providing the foundations of a new era for the company. The stirrings of change could be seen in 2015 when, on its 80th anniversary, Rowlinson became employee-owned, meaning the business can never be sold. For a company whose driver for success has always been ethics and people – its staff, customers and suppliers – this was the most significant step in the firm’s history. As well as an ethical investment, the fair-for-all philosophy has delivered economic benefits including increased productivity, enhanced customer satisfaction and retained profit.

In July 2016, the company made its next strategic move with the appointment of commercial director, Neil Ward. Ward, Rowlinson’s new managing director in the making, was formerly a highly qualified banker and area director at HSBC and has extensive first-hand experience advising international businesses on their growth strategies. With his drive for decision-making coupled with a fair and

open leadership style, Ward is the perfect fit for the company’s culture and future plans.

Moving into 2017, we see Rowlinson consolidate its position further with a relocation to new and improved premises. The modern, 76,000 sq ft site - which has storage capacity for 2.4 million garments - is located at Discovery Park in Stockport, only a few miles away from the company’s former premises at Woodbank Mills. As well as expanding the business’ logistics, particularly during peak times, the new site also provides improved working and social areas for Rowlinson’s 56 staff.

SERVICE TO CUSTOMERS With Ward’s appointment and the new premises securely in place, Rowlinson turned its attention to its product offering. Not content with just providing quality garments to the schoolwear market, the company’s aim is to revolutionise the sector. By listening to the market, it has been keenly developing new and innovative products that directly meet its customers’ needs.

Responding to the growing trend of schools choosing bespoke striped knitwear as part of their uniform, Rowlinson unveiled its stock specials service at The Schoolwear Show in October. Formed on customer opinion and its own market research, the new service enables the company to hold vast stocks of a number of special striped designs from its Performa® 50 and Rowlinson Courtelle ranges. All of the items are available for next day delivery from Rowlinson’s UK warehouse with no minimum order requirements. The aim of the stocked specials service is to enable retailers to win more business from schools. Essentially, it allows them to promote a special striped garment with the confidence of receiving a sample garment the next day. Furthermore, by holding a significant stock of specials and offering next day delivery, Rowlinson can act as the warehouse for all of its customers. Not only does this reduce the financial outlay and risk for retailers, it also frees up space in their stores. The initial range comprises 18 of the most popular designs, but more will be added based on demand. >>> DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 51

CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

ENHANCEMENTS TO PERFORMA® The other key product launch is Performa® 25.

Created following extensive research and customer feedback, Performa® 25 is a new, ultra-lightweight, ethically produced option available in a fully-fitted V-neck pullover and cardigan in black, grey or navy. The single bed knit garment composed from Rowlinson’s Performa® 50 yarn combines the comfort of cotton with durability and colour fastness.

Designed to offer the smarter, more refined look popular with students, Performa® 25’s light handle and tailored silhouette is expected to prove particularly useful for wear beneath blazers and jackets.

In line with the launch of Performa® 25, Rowlinson has also rebranded Performa®. The new design, which offers a clean and contemporary look to reflect the garments’ premium quality, will be rolled out across neck labels and swing tickets for all Performa® garments.

A VALUES-LED CULTURE Like any business, the ultimate goal of Rowlinson’s strategy is to remain successful.

However, for this company, market success and moral standards must go hand in hand. Because of this, a clear vision and focused set of values continue to underpin the company. The business’ vision is that great things happen when people with shared values work together in the pursuit of common goals. Where business is done well, while also doing good.

In terms of values, trust remains paramount; earning the trust of its customers, supplier partners and people by being open, fair, honest and respectful. Also, care for customers, colleagues and suppliers through service is a constant aim, as is striving to be a great company to work for and with. Finally, the value of ‘Be Better’ acts as a reminder to continually strive for improvement in all that the business does.

ETHICAL ETHOS Another defining characteristic of Rowlinson is its transparent and ethical approach to business, a quality it continues to enrich. Amongst the company’s credentials is its membership of the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI). This ensures that Rowlinson only uses factories that can demonstrate they are fully compliant with all local health, safety and labour regulations.

Rowlinson’s policy in relation to ethical trading,

52 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

“ LIKE ANY BUSINESS, THE ULTIMATE GOAL OF ROWLINSON’S STRATEGY IS TO REMAIN SUCCESSFUL. HOWEVER, FOR THIS COMPANY, MARKET SUCCESS AND MORAL STANDARDS MUST GO HAND IN HAND. BECAUSE OF THIS, A CLEAR VISION AND FOCUSED SET OF VALUES CONTINUE TO UNDERPIN THE COMPANY.” therefore, is aligned with the principles of the ETI Base Code, which drives the company’s activity in the area of supply.

Rowlinson is also among 12 brands and retailers to recently sign the Responsible Sourcing Network’s Turkmen Cotton Pledge, which commits companies to not source cotton from Turkmenistan until forced labour in its cotton sector is eliminated. Alongside Rowlinson, Adidas, Columbia Sportwear Company, Designworks Clothing Company, Gap, H&M Group, M&S, Nike, Royal Bermuda, LLC, Sears Holdings, Varner Retail and VF Corporation have all signed the pledge.

Rowlinson has also published a Cotton Policy, which describes how it will address concerns over forced and child labour in the cotton supply chain and its intentions with regard to alternative and more sustainable

cotton sources. Equally, it has a Modern Day Slavery Statement providing information on its activities and commitments to prevent modern slavery in its business operation and supply chain.

THE FUTURE The last few years represent something of a transition for Rowlinson, but there is more to come. The company will continue to develop its people, services and products to meet customers’ needs, including investigating other products to add to its range. However, as much as Rowlinson is embracing innovation and change, the core values that define the business are unquestionably here to stay. www.rowlinson-knitwear.com

INTRODUCING STOCKED SPECIALS WE HOLD STOCK OF STRIPED KNITWEAR* – SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO.

PERFORMA 25 ®

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24-HOUR SERVICE ON STRIPED GARMENTS

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NO NEED TO TIE UP CASH

NO MINIMUM ORDERS ORDER 1, 100 OR 1000!

FAST CUSTOMER SERVICE 18 DESIGNS FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY

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CWB-ONLINE.CO | SCHOOLWEAR

INNOVATION

BY NAME, INNOVATIVE BY NATURE Michelle Cohen, head of accounts and export at Innovation Schoolwear, discusses the company’s latest developments, including new products and services and improved customer focus.

Laura Turner: How has business been since we last spoke in October 2017?

Michelle Cohen: Busy - we have experienced a lot of change since then. In January 2018 we moved into our fabulous new purpose-built warehouse near the Spurs stadium in London.

Plus, we now have in-house embroidery and print rooms, which allow us to have more control on turnarounds and new processes in those markets. Finally, in July 2018, my brother Samuel Cohen became director and Ben Cohen, who was responsible for the purchase ledger and payroll, retired.

LT: How did 2018 Back to School (BTS) compare to previous years?

MC: We found BTS started later. It was a slow start but when it picked up customers were ordering in larger quantities than before and we had out-of-stocks that we could not replenish fast enough. Our customers told us that they felt there was more money available and parents were buying more, but they were unsure as to what inspired that change. We’re not complaining though.

LT: What feedback did you get from retailers at The Schoolwear Show?

MC: We discovered that many retailers did not know that we embroider and print in-house as well as customise leavers’ hoodies. They also told us that when ordering online, if they find an item is out of stock, they want to know when it is coming into stock via our website; essentially, saving a phone call. Customers also asked us to abolish the back order £2.95 delivery charge and suggested that we relaunch our patch pocket blazer. I am pleased to confirm that those 54 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

THE EXHIBITION TEAM: LEFT TO RIGHT; AARON COHEN, TRACY MANNERING, EMMA JONES, MICHELLE COHEN & MOHAMMED OUGOUAG

changes have been listened to and will be implemented from January 2019.

LT: In terms of your product, are there developments in the pipeline for 2019?

MC: Yes, we are adding three new stock lines for 2019 and will be introducing some new colours to existing lines. The three new lines are boys’ slim fit shorts, 450ml infant water bottles and boys’ and girls’ refined blazers.

Additional colours to existing lines are: black, emerald and jade poly/cotton sweatshirts and cardigans; orange polo shirts; black knitted cardigans; black sturdy shorts; water bottles with maroon lids; and emerald and jade shoe bags.

LT: Can you tell me more about the Phoenix by Innovation brand?

MC: Phoenix by Innovation is the brand we launched after our warehouse fire in 2015 and is named after the Phoenix bird that was reborn

from the flames. Within that range we have six stock supported lines: poly/cotton sweatshirts and cardigans; hi-vis vests; 600D infant book bags; junior book bags; and document cases.

LT: What are the main challenges you’re currently facing as a business and how do you plan to overcome them?

MC: For 2019, our main focus is ensuring we are holding more stock than in 2018 so that we don’t experience out-of-stocks again. All of our 2019 orders have now been placed and we are accepting customer forward orders until the end of January 2019 in case we need to place further orders with our manufacturers.

LT: Are there any other improvements you’re planning to make?

MC: Yes, there are two major changes we are implementing from February 2019. Firstly, a new website with live stock visibility and 24/7 online

SCHOOLWEAR | CWB-ONLINE.CO

THE COMPLETED, PURPOSE-BUILT INNOVATION BUILDING

ordering. Secondly, we are unifying the ages/ inches sizing across our schoolwear range. For example, an age 6/7 years will now be a 28” for both sweatshirts and polo shirts, making it easier to pair and sell garments for our customers and also the end user; parents.

LT: How do you support your customers?

MC: I think we best support our customers by caring about their concerns and requirements and also listening to their feedback. For example, the new, enhanced website and the introduction of new lines for 2019. We also provide product images for retailers’ websites, POS if required, we offer extended credit terms on BTS invoices, plus special price incentives on bulk business. We even design and print personalised A5 flyers. Ultimately, we aim to help our customers throughout the year, not just at BTS. If we can do it, we will.

LT: Why do think your customers select Innovation Schoolwear over its competitors?

MC: For the personal service they receive from us across all three departments: schoolwear, embroidery and printing. Throughout the busy BTS season we did a number of very late finishes to ensure the majority of stock orders left for next day delivery. Our on-site embroidery and printing rooms managed the seven-day turnaround throughout the summer – quite a feat if we may say so ourselves. We are a family-run business that cares, so when something does go wrong we address it, rectify it and ensure our customer is happy with the result.

“ THROUGHOUT THE BUSY BTS SEASON WE DID A NUMBER OF VERY LATE FINISHES TO ENSURE THE MAJORITY OF STOCK ORDERS LEFT FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY. OUR ON-SITE EMBROIDERY AND PRINTING ROOMS MANAGED THE SEVEN-DAY TURNAROUND THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER – QUITE A FEAT IF WE MAY SAY SO OURSELVES. WE ARE A FAMILY-RUN BUSINESS THAT CARES.” LT: What are your views on the current schoolwear market?

MC: It is a very competitive and fast-moving market with great importance placed on customer service. I found it interesting that most of the schoolwear suppliers had issues with out-of-stocks in 2018, including us. I don’t know if it was because of the uncertainty over Brexit or because - as we found - customers ordered more and later in the season.

LT: What opportunities do you see for your business’ growth?

MC: As the school uniform market is huge worldwide, I want to work on targeting more accounts; furthering sales and our customer base both abroad and in the UK, regardless of the Brexit outcome. The fact we manufacture 40 of our stock lines in the UK really matters to our customers, the British are proud and supportive

people. Finally, our fabulous polo shirt that is stocked in 17 colours needs to be pushed into the workwear market along with our Hi-Viz vests.

LT: Innovation Schoolwear recently joined The Schoolwear Association. What inspired this move?

MC: At The Schoolwear Show in October I had a great chat with The Schoolwear Association’s chairman, David Burgess, and felt that as a business we should join and support the Association. We really identify with its campaign, ‘Every child is worth it. We also think it is important to have a strong, collective voice for all of the suppliers and retailers in the market in order to reinforce the importance of ethically sourced, quality school uniform to government, the press, schools and parents. www.innovationschoolwear.co.uk DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 55

CWB-ONLINE.CO | INFORMATION

NAMES & NUMBERS A A Monday in Copenhagen nicky@littleicons.co.uk www.littleicons.co.uk • ARI London 07399 408599 www.arilondon.com B Banner 0333 7000 888 www.banner.co.uk • Blade & Rose emma@bladeandrose.co.uk www.bladeandrose.co.uk • Britannical 01273 455845 www.britannical.com • Bubble @ Pure London 0203 855 9551 www.purelondon.com C Colour Chronicles (The Book of You) 07880 558888 www.colourchronicles.com • Clockwork Soldier 07936 434894 www.clockworksoldiershop.co.uk • Cuckooz Nest 0203 950 2539 www.cuckooznest.co.uk D David Luke Schoolwear 0161 272 7474 www.davidluke.com F Fiona Coleman fiona.coleman@me.com www.fiona-coleman.com • Fred’s World 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk • Frugi 07880 491437 www.frugiwholesale.com G Grosvenor Britain & Ireland 020 7408 0988 www.grosvenor.com H Henri Lloyd 0207 837 3838 www.brandmachinegroup.co.uk I INDX Kidswear Show 0121 683 1415 www.indxshow.co.uk • Innovation Schoolwear 0208 887 8778 www.innovationschoolwear.co.uk J Junior Style info@juniorstyle.net www.juniorstyle.net • Joules 01858 435261 www.joulesgroup.com K Kimba Kids www.kimbakids.com L Lello Kids 07340 474657 www.lellokids.co.uk • Le Mu 077961 73771 www.le-mu.co.uk • Lilly + Sid 01788 824455 www.lillyandsid.com • Little Green Radicals 07902 873684 www.littlegreenradicals.co.uk • Little Lord & Lady 07734 357865

www.littlelordandlady.com • Little Star info@littlestarjewellery.com www.littlestarjewellery.com • Lola + Blake 07894 962286 www.lolaandblake.co.uk M Maní 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • Maped Helix 01384 286860 www.mapedhelix.co.uk • Mini A Ture 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • Monica Richards sales@nomadoriginals.co.uk www.nomadoriginals.com • Müsli 0045 70702502 www.bygreencotton.dk P Pigeon 01865 379230 www.pigeonorganics.com • Pitti Bimbo 0033 055 3696222 www.pittimmagine.com R Raspberry Republic info@raspberryrepublic.com www.raspberryrepublic.pl • Rowlinson Knitwear 0161 477 7791 www.rowlinson-knitwear.com S Schoolwear Association info@schoolwearassociation.co.uk www.schoolwearassociation.co.uk • Smalls 020 7002 7799 www.smallsmerino.co.uk • Spots & Stripes 07711 416680 www.spots-and-stripes.com T The Insights People +44 (0) 330 159 6631 www.theinsightspeople.com • The Middle Daughter 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • Top Drawer 020 7384 8167 www.topdrawer.co.uk • Totem 07557 642898 www.thetotemkids.com • ToucanToucan 07493 557766 www.toucantoucan.co.uk W Wee Gallery 01225 863118 www.weegallery.com • Wild & Gorgeous 07711 746276 www.solobi.co.uk • William Turner 0161 480 8582 www.william-turner.co.uk

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AGENTS REQUIRED

UK Agents Required We are an exciting, globally established bag brand, looking to grow in the UK. With over 30yrs experience in the backpack and accessories market our products are high quality, durable, colourful and eye catching making them perfect for kids of all ages!

If you are interested in becoming part of the Totto team and have an enthusiasm for growing new brands we would love to hear from you.

Email: paul.collier@totto.uk.com Tel: 07892 713258 www.totto.uk.com

SCHOOLWEAR

SCHOOL TIES

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We are an established, family-run school uniform wholesaler that has been supplying quality schoolwear for over 50 years. We pride ourselves on servicing our customers with excellent stock availability from our modern 80,000 square foot warehouse in London.

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SCHOOLWEAR EMBROIDERY PRINTING Our on-site embroidery and printing rooms allow us to turnaround logoed garments on a 7 day turnaround, all year round. You can expect to receive the goods back, ready to sell or wear; making it an easy, hassle-free process.

Call: 0208 887 8778

Email: sales@innovationschoolwear.co.uk Visit: www.innovationschoolwear.co.uk

AGENCY

WELDON AGENCIES ACCESSORIES

Established for over 25 years, two generations, covering all areas of the UK. Representing leading brands from Europe, Canada and Russia.

Catering for boys and girls 0 to 16 years. Styling from contemporary to traditional.

FUN & FUN, LE CHIC, DEUX PAR DEUX, FOQUE, SARDON, LARANJINHA, JEYCAT, GULLIVER Weldon Agencies, Southport, Merseyside Tel: 01704 576033 Email: barrieweldon@btconnect.com, andrewweldon@btconnect.com www.weldonagencies.co.uk

ORCHARD AGENCY

BamBam – innovative, high quality but also surprisingly affordable.

Chris, Carol, Lisa & Ray are the team behind Orchard, a leading second generation childrens clothing agency in the UK, with expertise in London and the South East.

Orchard Agency, 28 Fourth Avenue, Frinton-on-Sea, Essex CO13 9DX Tel: 01255 674301 Email: chris@orchardagency.co.uk carol&ray@orchardagency.co.uk

Tel: 01442 248099 Email: sales@finestforbaby.co.uk

BABY & KIDS SHOES

WT Classified 40mm Ad_AW_OUTLINED.indd 12/11/20181 10:47

www.inchblue.com

TO ADVERTISE IN THE CWB DIRECTORY PLEASE EMAIL MICHELE

michele@cwbmedia.co.uk DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019 - 57

CWB-ONLINE.CO | TALKING POINT

TALKING POINT ROMAINE COONGHE Founder of Junior Style and Tangereene Magazine Romaine Coonghe, founder of the digital kids’ fashion portal, Junior Style, discusses her latest projects including a new magazine and a collaboration with Playtime Paris. news, contributor posts and editorials, it also provides marketing services. Leveraging nearly two decades of experience and contacts in the childrenswear industry, we offer kids’ fashion brands and retailers a range of PR and marketing services with an emphasis on digital content marketing.

I love to nurture entrepreneurs. Through my business knowledge and experience in the industry I help grow kids’ fashion brands as well as providing consulting and mentoring services.

Laura Turner: What led you into a career in kids’ fashion?

Romaine Coonghe: After having my first son nearly 17 years ago now - I was uninspired by the boys’ clothing market. I started researching the kids’ fashion industry and found there was really only the high street and designer brands available. After discovering a few emerging childrenswear designers I decided I wanted to create a business to showcase the collections to a wider audience. I come from a family of entrepreneurs and whilst I was growing up I helped my parents in their businesses. I learned all of the basics, from customer service through to accounting, so starting my own business felt like a natural step.

LT: How did you get Junior Style off the ground?

RC: I began in 2003 by holding kids’ fashion events in various locations in London. I would showcase the wonderful, independent brands I had started to discover alongside sample collections and overstock from kids’ fashion agents.

Shortly afterwards I built an online platform - Junior Style - to run alongside the events. It became apparent very quickly that Junior Style was an influencer in the kids’ fashion industry.

With this in mind, I created a portal where I could showcase brands and retailers and raise the global visibility of their businesses.

LT: How has the platform evolved since?

RC: Today, Junior Style not only houses an international kids’ fashion blog sharing industry 58 - DECEMBER/JANUARY 2019

LT: Can you tell me more about your new magazine?

RC: Tangereene magazine launched in October to provide fashion and inspiration for the youth of today. It includes a great balance of editorial content, features, interviews and discussions aimed at inspiring kids to be the best version of themselves in their families and communities.

While the heart of the magazine is a love of kids’ fashion, the editorial content is more than just pretty faces in the latest styles. Tangereene is passionately committed to inclusion, exploring fashion through the lens of multiple perspectives.

My vision is for every child looking through our pages to see themselves, their community and

great content. I also hope that the magazine will be in print by mid-2019. This reflects my ideal of parents and kids reading and discussing the topics raised in the magazine together while also taking kids away from their personal devices.

LT: Can you tell me about your project with Playtime Paris for 2019?

RC: For the next two seasons I’ll be selecting the 12 brands in Playtime Paris’ New Now section, which is an area of the show for new brands entering the kids’ fashion market. I’ve also been enlisted to advise and guide the brands to ensure that they get the best trade show experience possible. I’ll be offering tips with regards to preparing for the show as well as supporting them during the event.

Out of the 12 brands I’ve selected, five are from the UK. I’ve chosen a variety to reflect the diversity of the businesses showcasing at Playtime.

LT: Is there anything else you’re working on?

RC: Another big project I have in the pipeline is with the organisation behind Vancouver Kids Fashion Week, which I was lucky enough to be invited to in September. Watch this space.

“ IT WAS ALWAYS MY VISION TO CREATE A PLATFORM JUST FOR YOUTH. JUNIOR STYLE IS AIMED AT PARENTS AND TANGEREENE AT YOUTH, BOTH INTRINSICALLY LINKED THROUGH FASHION.” their friends authentically reflected. Tangereene also focuses on what it means to be a young person in a multi-cultural, digital and global society. It looks at the challenges the next generation will be tackling head-on, from the plastic crisis and runaway consumerism to equality and human rights. As of March, Tangereene will be available on a bi-monthly basis.

It was always my vision to create a platform just for youth. Junior Style is aimed at parents and Tangereene at youth, both intrinsically linked through fashion.

LT: What are your long-term plans for Tangereene?

RC: To keep inspiring the future generation with

LT: What’s currently inspiring you in kids’ fashion?

RC: I find it inspirational that despite the current climate, there are still new brands emerging and taking on the challenge of breaking into this overcrowded marketplace. I take my hat off to their courage in carrying out their dreams, despite the uncertain times ahead.

I’m also enjoying the brand collaborations I’m seeing. For example, Reebok teaming up with The Animals Observatory and Dear Giana, the nine-year-old artist we first featured when she was just starting out over two years ago, who is now collaborating with Nike to produce a collection. www.juniorstyle.net

Children´s Clothing and Shoes 0-16 years

INDX

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LARGEST KIDSWEAR TRADE SHOW IN THE UK 17-19THE February 2019 10 - 11 FEBRUARY 2019

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Over 200 brands

A Bespoke trade show for all independent retailers Cranmore Park Conference and Event Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1415