The American July 2009

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The American

Over the Sea to Skye Maureen Gray discovers the joys of following in the Bonnie Prince’s footsteps. Photos by Roger Hague

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think it is the same love of tragic romantic themes which made me as a child adore the story of ‘The Tin Soldier’ by Hans Christian Andersen, (later progressing in my teenage years to Thomas Hardy’s equally poignant ‘The Trumpet Major’), that has always drawn me to the wonderfully melodic and soulful ‘Skye Boat Song’. The ballad recalls the escape in 1746 of Charles Edward Stuart, (better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie), after his defeat at Culloden, which marked the end of his attempt to wrest the thrones of England and Scotland back from the Protestant William of Orange. Sadly, you can no longer sail over the sea to this wonderful island lying off the north west coast of Scotland. Much more conveniently, albeit less romantically, it is now joined to the mainland by the Skye Bridge. Nonetheless, it is still the most enchanting destination and a place of spec-

”Speed bonnie boat like a bird on the wing Onward! The sailors cry Carry the lad that was born to be king Over the sea to Skye” tacular scenery dominated by the magnificent Cuillin Mountains. There is a wide range of accommodation on Skye, from luxury hotels to camping areas. Having a dog in tow, (Millie), we chose to stay in one of the many self-catering cottages. Our journey by car (not for the faint-hearted!) took 10 hours, 10 minutes driving time from the Wiltshire Dorset border to the village of Carbost on the mid west coast of the island. The village is probably best known as the home of the Talisker Distillery, an essential stopping off point for you lovers of a ‘wee dram’.

Having thrown our bags down in the hallway of the cottage at about 8pm, my partner, (who had done all of the driving), collapsed on the sofa, his face a kind of sickly green. I decided to drag him to the local pub, about a hundred yards up the road, which was happily dog friendly and where over a plate of fish and chips and several glasses of red wine he began to revive. ‘The Old Inn’ in Carbost turned out to be a wonderfully lively and social place and we were soon being entertained by live music from ‘Ali and friends’. Ali, a talented singer/guitarist

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