Boheme North Bay 2023

EPICUREAN ADVENTURES IN THE NORTH BAY

Sensuality Sense and

As one might imagine, editing a magazine entitled Boheme requires living la vie boheme

I’m uniquely suited for the task, seeing as my interests lay somewhere in the nexus between moveable type and a moveable feast. We can thank Gutenberg for the former and Hemingway for the latter. But when it comes to living here, I thank my lucky stars.

As the character Mark sang in the musical Rent (which borrows heavily from Puccini’s La Boheme—our publication’s namesake), “We raise our glass—you bet your ass to—la vie Boheme!”

It’s been a decade since I’ve been back in local climes, and I’ve not since ceased

raising a glass. The only way I rest my arm is by taking a sip. It’s been bliss. I’m what’s called a “repatriate.” After years of living elsewhere, I was happily returned to my place of origin like some plundered artifact. And when I shuffle off this mortal coil, I hope they lower me into the loamy soil so that I may become part of the terroir and haunt bottles forevermore.

Until then, I’ll enjoy my front row seat on the continued evolution of Sonoma, Napa and Marin counties from rural exurbs to world class epicurean locales— and continue ushering readers like you down the aisle as the North Bay enjoys its time in the limelight.

To continue the theatrical metaphor, the edition you’re reading now is but

The North Bay is an epicurean epicenter

a mere preview of our area’s copious offerings. Think of it as a playbill, an enticement to the experience to come.

From fine wines and culinary coups de coeur to hedonic spa days that you’ll want to last for weeks—our intrepid journos have sought to highlight experiences sure to charm everyone’s inner sensualist. It’s one of the dividends of our profession that we were able to experience much of what follows firsthand (we are accredited members of the media, after all). And now it’s your turn, dear reader.

As Epicurus himself wisely intoned, “Not what we have, but what we enjoy, constitutes our abundance.”

In abundance,

Daedalus Howell, Editor

PHOTO BY KELSEY CHANCE

CHEERS Let’s raise a glass to la vie boheme.

‘Epitome The of Us’

Couple’s wedding theme is a perfect pairing

Newlyweds Ashley Battaglia Brueske and Gabe Brueske were brought together by family, friends and fate in the form of a well-timed guitar workshop. Love bloomed, and an interstate romance flourished. After a few years, Gabe—a wine and spirits professional and lauded local guitarist—and Ashley—a VP of business development and partnerships, foodie and dog lover—knew it was time to savor the moment in a big day that “was the epitome of ‘US.’”

PHOTOS BY OSCAR URIZAR

NEWLYWEDS Gabe Brueske and Ashley Battaglia Brueske met in New York.

How did you meet?

Ashley: We met at my cousin’s birthday dinner and reconnected maybe a year later in New York, where sparks flew. After that, we started dating long-distance for three years, which was quite an experience.

Gabe: We met at my best friend’s brother’s birthday party. We connected a year later when Ashley lived in New York, and I traveled there for a guitar workshop.

When and how did you know each other was the “One?”

Ashley: On Gabe’s first trip to NYC, we were sipping champagne and eating oysters with our friends in SoHo, and I turned to my cousin and said that’s the guy I will marry. He laughed, but I was serious. Gabe was the missing piece to my puzzle, the one I didn’t even know I was searching for. When you know, you know. He also had the most endearing smile.

Gabe: When our conversations didn’t stop.

Please describe the process/proposal that led to “Yes.”

Gabe: We started our day with a picnic at the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco. After that, I took her to a hotel room decorated with roses. I serenaded her with a song before getting down on one knee and proposing. She said yes!

Ashley: What Gabe said. It was amazing. It’s always a plus when your partner can play an instrument and sing well.

What was your vision for your wedding? Was there a theme or a particular vibe you wanted to create?

Gabe: Elegant Rock ‘n’ Roll

Ashley: Nailing down the vision for our wedding was a bit of a rollercoaster ride. Every day seemed to bring new ideas and inspirations, and it felt like we were constantly evolving the plan. But it ended up being everything we dreamed of and more. Our big day was the epitome of “US”—a perfect

We were sipping champagne and eating oysters with our friends in SoHo, and I turned to my cousin and said that’s the guy I will marry.

— ASHLEY BATTAGLIA BRUESKE

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blend of rock ‘n’ roll vibes, timeless elegance and a touch of Italian flair.

How did it go?

Nerve-wracking, easy-peasy?

Spill some tea.

Ashley: The wedding was amazing! It was stressful because we decided to plan it in two months, but I thrive under pressure. What made it truly special was the involvement of our loved ones. From my sister baking our wedding cake and acting as our day-of coordinator, to my cousin officiating the ceremony and our friends arranging the stunning floral arrangements— each guest contributed something truly meaningful. It was a day filled with love and support that exceeded all our expectations.

Gabe: Nerves were there, but so was excitement. We didn’t spill

any tea, but some champagne definitely got spilled.

Any shoutouts to vendors that went above and beyond?

Gabe/Ashley: Yes! Big shoutout to...

Photographer Oscar Urizar, redeyecollection.com

Hair & Makeup Artist Caysi Jean, caysijean.com

Shane Baldwin from North Beach Restaurant, northbeachrestaurant.com

How has life changed postwedding?

Gabe: We call each other wife/ husband and have a little more swagger.

Ashley: Not much has changed except for the extra bling and a longer last name. Life is good!

— Weeklys Staff

US The couple’s wedding was ‘a perfect blend of rock ’n’ roll vibes, timeless elegance and a touch of Italian flair.’ Beautiful lingerie for a special day

Magnolia, Larkspur 415.924.0505

Jeff Bartee Photography

Panoramic vistas with floor to ceiling glass walls in

lounge, stunning views of San Francisco Bay, Angel Island, Belvedere, the Bay Bridge and Sausalito.

Distilled

BROS Chris Matthies (left) and Brandon Matthies are the brains behind Sonoma Brothers.

Distilled

The Spirits of Wine Country

Sonoma County has always been known for its wineries and, during the last two decades, its craft breweries and cideries. Yet, lately distilleries with unique and refined flavors are on the rise.

At the moment, 16 distilleries reside in Sonoma County, each offering a unique take on popular blends and styles of spirits. We did a brief jaunt covering a few different distilleries in Sonoma County and also spoke a bit of behindthe-scenes shop talk about the fun and challenging work that comes with running a distillery.

Sonoma Brothers distillery, located at 7759 Bell Rd. in Windsor, is owned and operated by, you guessed it, two brothers. Twins, at that. Chris Matthies is the recipes and numbers guy, while brother Brandon is head distiller. The two established Sonoma Brothers in 2012 with a focus on a New American-style gin that offers “notes of fresh juniper berries, coriander, fennel and citrus orange zest,” as well as a vodka and a very limitedinventory bourbon that is only available through their spirit club and distribution.

Asked about the number of newer distilleries popping up, Chris Matthies, who is also a firefighter engineer for the City of Santa Rosa, said, “When we started our business over 10 years ago, there were only a handful of distilleries in Sonoma

County. With the changes in ABC laws, it has allowed craft distillers to have tasting rooms where we can sell direct to the consumer, and now ship directly to the consumer within California.” He added, “Distillery regulations are still very restrictive, but these changes have allowed distillery owners to grow their business in different ways.”

When it comes to their inspiration, Brandon Matthies, who when he’s not distilling is a police sergeant for the Santa Rosa Police Department, said, “We strive to make each one of our spirits stand

BY DON R. LEWIS

out within their category. Whether that is with flavor profiles, unique grains or small barrel lots.”

One of the better known distilleries in Sonoma County is Petaluma’s Griffo Distillery. Back in 2008, husband and wife Michael and Jenny Griffo had grown tired of the 9-to-5 grind and were brainstorming ways they could work together and build a sustainable life and family. With Michael Griffo’s doctorate in physics and “knack for innovation,” and Jenny Griffo’s background in sustainable community building, the two decided a distillery was exactly the kind of business they could build, run and contribute to the community with.

It took seven long years of saving up and scraping by before the Griffo Distillery opened near the Lagunitas Brewing Company. In the years since, it has become a revered Petaluma hangout. It’s important to note that one of the ways Griffo gave back to the community was by teaming with Lagunitas and turning their distilled spirits into hand sanitizer during the COVID lockdown.

In 2020, Lagunitas put the finishing touches on their popular seasonal Waldos’ Special Ale, a triple IPA that Lagunitas calls “the dankest and hoppiest beer ever brewed by Lagunitas.” But because restaurants and tap rooms were shut down, the keg beer was going to waste. When Michael Griffo put out the call asking for anyone with extra alcohol to help make hand sanitizer, Lagunitas

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SONOMA BROTHERS DISTILLING

EST. Sonoma Brothers launched in 2012.

head brewer Jeremy Marshall responded, and Waldos’ Special Ale became Griffo hand sanitizer.

Alas, this isn’t a sob story about “wasting beer.” As Griffo and Marshall created their hand sanitizer, they noticed a sweet and enticing aroma emanating from the tanks. This led the two to collaborate again this spring for Still Waldos’, a singlemalt whiskey made from the mash created while brewing Waldos’ Special Ale distilled

down and placed in Seguin Moreau wine barrels to settle and age. It’s available now at Griffo Distillery and on their website for around $96 a bottle.

Griffo also features a Scott Street Gin, a Stony Point Whiskey, a Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur made using Marin County-based Equator Coffees & Teas, and a muchtalked-about vodka.

Petaluma Hotel on Washington Street, is Barber Lee Spirits. In 2017, after taking over the space in an early 1900s-era warehouse, wine-making team Lorraine and Michael Barber teamed up with Aaron Lee to create their impressive micro-distillery, which focuses on “harder to make, unique styles of spirits.”

When asked to explain that distilleryspeak to a newbie, Lorraine Barber said, “We don’t set out to do things in a

Across town in Petaluma, located around the corner from the revamped »»

FRESH START Back in 2008, husband and wife Michael and Jenny Griffo gave up the 9-to-5 grind and started their popular distillery.

harder way; we’re not masochists!” Laughing, she continued, “Our intention has always been and will always be to make things the right way or what we view [as] the right way … to add our voice to the conversation of spirits.”

Asked about the differences between a smaller distillery like Barber Lee and a large-scale one like, say, Jack Daniels,

Barber says, “Because our production isn't mechanized and all of our equipment is manually controlled, it allows full expression of the ingredients. Most, if not all, large-scale distilleries are automated and computer controlled, which makes every batch uniform in flavor.”

Barber clarified, “When we go to make our cuts, we are tasting throughout

the entire process and are guided by our individual palate. Each batch tends to have variation due to the natural ingredient itself, as well as the person distilling. We really lean into and celebrate those variations batch to batch because we get to have something unique to drink. Each batch is like a new work of art that way.”

COLLABORATION Wine-making team Lorraine and Michael Barber teamed up with Aaron Lee to create their impressive micro-distillery in 2017.

Featuring several unique blends, Barber Lee’s list includes a Single Malt Rye Whiskey, Heirloom Corn Bourbon, Apple Brandy, White Rum, Absinthe and even a Moonshine. “Our rye is definitely the most difficult to work with, because we exclusively use 100% malted rye, and we both ferment and distill grain in for maximum flavor extraction,” Barber says. “Malted rye becomes very sticky to work with, and mixing it and transferring it from fermentation to distillation is a trial, but one we’re more than happy to go through to achieve the best-tasting rye whiskey made.”

Barber Lee features shipping as well as a “Spirits Club,” wherein participants will be shipped two or four bottles of Barber Lee Spirits, three times a year. Both are only available in California.

The distillery’s tasting room is open Wednesday through Sunday.

A newer kid on the Sonoma County distillery block is Santa Rosa’s only distillery, Elk Fence Distillery, run by Scott Woodson and Gail “Shorty” Coppinger. The latter explains, “We originally wanted to build a distillery in Marin, but the planning department wanted nothing to do with us. They responded with blank stares.” From there, “we went to Sonoma County and ended up in Santa Rosa, where we navigated through permits and red tape until it was finished. It’s not for the faint of heart!”

Coppinger is clearly proud of what Elk Fence produces. “Our Gold Medalwinning Fir Top botanical gin, unlike Bombay Sapphire, is high proof. That’s something I really like about our gin; it

stands up to ice,” she says. “A lot of gins tend to weaken too much for my taste if shaken or stirred with ice. Even tonic can overwhelm lower-proof gins; FirTop doesn’t.” She adds, “We also kept it simple with our botanicals—only four, including juniper. Many larger company botanical gins have 10 to 12, sometimes more varieties of botanicals. It can get muddied; Fir Top is clean and bright.”

Elk Fence is located at 464 Kenwood Court, Ste. E, in Santa Rosa and features some truly intriguing beverages, including The Briny Deep American Single Malt Whiskey, Fir Top Botanical Gin, White Elk Double Pot Distilled Vodka and a soon-to-be-released Peated Bourbon. Their tasting room is open Friday and Saturday, 11am-4pm, or by appointment. w

Featuring several unique blends, Barber Lee’s list includes a Single Malt Rye Whiskey, Heirloom Corn Bourbon, Apple Brandy, White Rum, Absinthe and even a Moonshine.

Chill DestinationBody

MoonAcre Spa in Calistoga invites all

BY MICHAEL GIOTIS

The drive through Sonoma into Calistoga is a reset in itself, the gentle curves and forested hills lulling the stress of everyday life to let down its guard. The body somehow recognizes on its own that at the end of the road trip is a whole spa town built on the relaxation of generations. »»

PHOTOS BY EUNIQUE DEEANN

DOWN TIME MoonAcre Spa is nestled on the charming grounds of the Calistoga Motor Lodge.

Cruising through downtown, it’s apparent that Calistoga has managed to keep the old-time frontier village feel that goes back to the town’s origins 150 years ago. Post-Gold Rush pioneers settled this land where the Wappo people first discovered the benefits of the natural mud baths and warm springs that made Calistoga a famous destination even before “wine country” became a thing.

Rolling past the brick facades and ubiquitous outdoor seating, one comes to a row of mid-century motor-resort after resort, many of which rest on grounds bubbling up with cleansing hot mud. Yet since 2017, the town has received a modern upgrade to the ancient healing compounds that made it famous. The new compound offered is massage lotion infused with CBD, the non-psychoactive cannabis molecule that these days shows up in everything from soap to calming dog treats.

MoonAcre Spa sits nestled on the charming grounds of the Calistoga Motor Lodge, a modernized resort that manages to feel like it must have in the 1940s when it was built, while being very much of the

2020s. For example, directions to finding the spa include the phrase, “Just past the giant red lips,” referring to the, well, giant red lips outside of the lobby.

More on the resort later, but first to that CBD massage. Not all those skilled at massage have true natural talent. This writer was fortunate to be in the care of Stephanie, whose strong hands managed to soothe and unwind muscles—taut from the scourge of an average week of parenting, working and blunt force exercise—while staying right at my comfort level. Normally one for a deep massage, on this occasion I asked to be coddled and she obliged magnificently. No CBD was needed to relax in these hands.

Although muscle relaxation from the CBD kicks in about 20 minutes after application to the skin, the benefits really come into effect after the massage. The instruction is to not wash up after a CBD session, so the lotion can take full effect. The feeling was not the usual relaxation that follows a massage. Instead, it was as if the benefits continued to expand, the calm in the body extending in time, therapeutic

impacts continuing to soak in, as if the massage was ongoing throughout the day. This effect was noticeable even hours after the session with Stephanie.

On hand were Vital Body CBD products, formulated and produced in Santa Cruz. The products were originally developed by the Vital Body Therapy spa. The two entities have recently separated (with Essentia Body Therapy being the new name of the brick and mortar spa in SC). Customers can buy various formulations to take home.

Kimberly DiVico runs the spa with a clear sense of pride and an unavoidable sense of humor. “MoonAcre Spa [is] our whimsical little oasis in the heart of Calistoga,” she said with a smile.

“MoonAcre Spa was renovated in 2017 to become a relaxing environment where wellness and good-spirited fun go hand in hand,” DiVico added.

The spa feels inviting, stylish without being bougie. The design combines midcentury elements with modern bright colors. It is all very accessible. Silly signs remind patrons not to wash their feet in

TUB Humorous signage warns that no lifeguards are on duty to save anyone in the claw-footed salt bath tubs.

the toilet and warn that no lifeguards are on hand to save anyone in the clawfooted salt bath tubs.

Ah, the salt baths. Although the Calistoga Motor Lodge does not have direct access to the mud baths, they combine with salt baths and a massage in the spa’s popular “Signature Ritual.” Couples can have a ball painting each other in mud in a private outdoor space before bathing and having their choice of the massage menu.

While the mud is brought in, all the resort’s many pools are filled with the famous local geothermal waters. It is the full Calistoga experience without the Porsche-envy environment of other spots along the strip.

“I like to call MoonAcre my ‘keep it simple spa,’” said DiVico. “It’s a lot of lux without the fuss.”

The rooms echo the mash-up of midcentury modern with SoCal desert resort, filtered through that goofy sense of humor. Suites can include a full-size, diner-style booth that converts to a second sleeping area—Airstream style—and balconies give views of the mountains that surround the valley. A testament of success, the resort expanded from 62 to 99 rooms this year.

Onsite restaurant Fleetwood serves a perfectly this-end-of-burnt crust pizza fired in one of two wood-burning ovens in the open kitchen. Do not skip the bright and friendly cocktail bar, with a generous happy hour and scheduled activities like trivia night.

“Our clientele are coming more for the quality of the food and the friendliness of the service,” said Fleetwood’s general manager, Pascal Pinault, when asked about the draw of the place. “It is not pretentious, [yet] it’s very elegant and comfortable, low profile but with very good, high-end quality of food.”

It is true that the food has a simplicity to it. Flavors are not overpowered but instead balance the profile of say pesto with spicy sausage to allow full enjoyment without hitting the diner over the head with too big a flavor.

Many patrons choose to follow dinner up with a 10 minute ride into downtown on a bike made available by the hotel.

Belly full, body relaxed, happy resort goers fall back into Calistoga Motor Lodge rooms or take that lovely drive home and let their bodies rest deeply in familiar beds, which they suddenly find more comfortable than the night before. w

Flamingo Resort & Spa

For those who prefer an option a little closer to the 101 corridor, look no further than Santa Rosa’s retro-modern classic, the Flamingo Resort & Spa. The spa at the Flamingo offers a massage with “CBD Enhancement which alleviates inflammation and anxiety.” Stay at the hotel for great rooms and a facility that balances romantic getaway with family fun. Get a delicious breakfast from the pan-Asian American-diner fusion menu at the Lazeaway Club after working up an appetite dancing the night before at on-site disco, Vintage Space.

LUX ‘It’s a lot of lux without the fuss,’ says Kimberly DiVico, MoonAcre Spa’s director of spa and wellness.

Eclectica Enotech

Picayune Cellars & Mercantile

BY TANYA HENRY

Downtown Calistoga’s Picayune Cellars is a perfect example of how the wine tasting model that previously included packing in as many tastings in one day as possible has changed. A hat bar where visitors can design their own chapeau, a retail store chock-full of the founders’ “favorite things” and of course wines are all on the menu at this expanded tasting room experience. »»

KEY Most of Picayune’s labels include an image of an antique skeleton key, which is a nod to the negociant-style of Picayune winery.

«« The handsome two-story white building with dark trim is the newest location for Picayune Cellars, which was previously located behind the Depot Train Station in Calistoga. Part of the town’s permitting process required occupants of the prime Lincoln Avenue location to offer a retail component—and boy did owner Claire Ducrocq Weinkauf comply!

In February 2023, Picayune Cellars & Mercantile opened their doors to reveal an inviting tasting room with several seating options, along with a vast array of jewelry, handbags, Native American blankets, hand-picked artworks and much more.

Weinkauf’s initial foray into winemaking began with a purchase of what she had expected to be a barrel, but instead she received a tank. Thus began her winemaking journey. She aptly named the winery Picayune (very loosely translated to a little) and released her first wines in 2011. While Weinkauf cites her interest is first and foremost as a wine drinker, the French native was no stranger to the business before she started her own label.

She founded Claire de Lune, a wine marketing consulting firm in 2010 and before that gained invaluable experience working for Paul Hobbs Wines. While

she worked on the business side, she also learned a great deal about the winemaking process during time spent in Argentina. It was there that she saw firsthand that winemaking in South America and the U.S. was less bound by century’s old traditions as it is in France. This appealed to Weinkauf’s more accessible attitude toward winemaking, and she vowed to bring that spirit to her own wines.

“I am a wine drinker before a winemaker,” explains Weinkauf, who noticed the lack of good quality and affordable wine options by the glass in many restaurants. She wanted to

CHEERS Claire Ducrocq Weinkauf’s initial foray into winemaking began with a purchase of what she had expected to be a barrel, but instead she received a tank.

change that. “I started Picayune out of my desire to drink wines that I stylistically loved and that I could afford on a daily basis,” she said.

In 2011, she released her first sauvignon blanc with her good friend and then partner, Jennifer Roberts. Today Picayune produces over 10 different wines, including a rose made with 100% syrah grapes to a coveted Blanc de Noir Champagne (thanks to a partnership with a French family).

Most of Picayune’s labels include an image of an antique skeleton key (there is also a large replica of a key that adorns the exterior of the building). Tasting room manager Carly Silva explains that the key is a nod to the negociant-style of Picayune winery. This means the winemaker doesn’t own vineyards or a winery but instead dedicates herself solely to the making of the wines, or as Silva puts it, “All of the efforts go into the bottle and not all the fluff around it.”

As there is typically a fair amount of secrecy surrounding this type of winemaking, a key suggests the contents are under lock and key. In fact, one of the wines (a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and other Bordeaux varietals) is titled Padlock.

The wines at Picayune are indeed bright and accessible. Their sauvignon blanc is eminently drinkable, with a mix of citrus and mineral notes. While the winery is best known for their sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon (grapes are sourced from all over), there are also some unexpected offerings,

I am a wine drinker before a winemaker… I started Picayune out of my desire to drink wines that I stylistically loved and that I could afford on a daily basis.

— CLAIRE DUCROCQ WEINKAUF

SPACE The eclectic space may soon host live music.

including an albarino, a grenache and syrah blend, and of course the Champagne Blanc de Noir Grand Cru. The wines aren’t confined by limited varietals, but rather by what the founder likes to drink.

Just as the wines very much reflect the taste of the founder, so too do the mercantile offerings. And much like the wines that eventually became “a little bit” of everything (as their name suggests), the retail inventory also boasts an eclectic mix of wares. Weinkauf’s initial buying started with her own personal collections. Hand crafted knives from artisans in the region of France where Weinkkauf grew up are on the shelves. Locally made silk scarves, along with plenty of Native American artwork and blankets, are also on display. Lest it feel too designer-y, a large selection of whimsical socks are also available, along with attractive wine-country friendly housewares. Silva stresses the buying process is focused

on supporting artists and people, not corporations.

While the merchandise has been carefully curated, there is also a hat bar, where visitors can purchase a basic style and with Silva’s assistance can personalize and brand their selections with initials or insignias, and adorn them with feathers, ribbons and bows if they desire. It’s safe to say that designing and building a one-of-a-kind hat whilst enjoying a flight of wines decidedly raises the bar on tasting room experiences.

Picayune’s inviting interior is open and cheery, with plenty of air wafting through the large space from the front doors to the back of the store, which opens onto a newly completed back patio. A grand opening recently celebrated the completed space. Plans for live music are also in the works. Even the tasting experience will get a boost with the addition of a Chef’s Bites menu option,

including a whipped goat cheese crostini and wild mushroom arancini.

For visitors who can’t get enough of all things Claire Ducrocq Weinkauf, the Calistoga resident even takes 10-20 of Picayune wine club members on a journey to France every summer. She rents a barge with a crew; and travelers join her in visiting villages, historic sites, and of course, discovering plenty of food and wine along the way.

A visit to Picayune Cellars & Mercantile clearly includes much more than simply sampling locally made wines. This eclectic tasting room offers up things one didn’t even know they wanted, all under one white stucco roof in the heart of downtown Calistoga.

Picayune Cellars & Mercantile

Website: picayunecellars.com

Phone: 707-341-3410

Address: 1440 Lincoln Ave., Calistoga

Hours: Sunday–Thursday: 11am–6pm; Friday: 11am–8pm; Saturday: 10am–7pm

BOTTLE As tasting room manager Carly Silva explains, ‘All of the efforts go into the bottle and not all the fluff around it.’

GourmetGathering

Meadowood, from fire to ‘Forum’

BY KARY HESS

It’s taken a few years, but rising from the ashes of cataclysmic wildfires and a pandemic is Forum, a beautiful new restaurant at the Meadowood Resort in St. Helena.

A former 3-Michelin-Star establishment, The Restaurant at Meadowood, helmed by Christopher Kostow, was widely mourned when

it was completely lost in a devastating wildfire almost three years ago. It will reopen at a later date as rebuilding continues. But the silver lining right now is Meadowood’s new restaurant, Forum, a casual fine dining experience not to be missed.

“Since Meadowood’s reopening in summer 2021, we’ve wanted to give guests a fresh place to come together and break bread, and Forum is exactly

EAT A hearty cauliflower steak is among Forum’s delectable offerings.

Napa de Oro produces limited quantities of Napa Valley wines known for their complexity, balance, and sophistication.

These elegant and powerful wines are made with old world style while using the latest in state of the art technology.

Discover for yourself what makes our wines simply unique and special.

Located in beautiful St. Helena, Napa Valley.

that,” says director of communications Amanda Harlan of the new restaurant at the luxury resort, open to guests of the resort and visitors alike.

In 2020, the Glass Incident Fire blazed through 40,000 acres of the Napa Valley. It destroyed everything in its path, not discriminating against dozens of wineries and resorts, including White Sulphur Springs, the oldest resort in California, and the luxury Meadowood Resort— burning to the ground the beloved Restaurant at Meadowood. Since then, Meadowood was rebuilt with lodge-style rooms and suites designed by notable architect Howard Backen, who also designed their new, innovative restaurant, Forum.

Forum’s sophisticated indoor-outdoor

design appeals in the wake of the pandemic, when diners like outdoor options to be as attractive as indoors. The building, an elevated tent-like structure featuring warm yellow-and-white stripes overhead with floor-to-ceiling walls of windows looking onto an expansive outside lounge, means diners can enjoy their meal both indoors and outdoors.

The restaurant delivers the exquisite cuisine expected from Meadowood in a casual setting. Nestle into a cozy cream boucle booth inside and experience an intimate or family meal with a relaxing outdoor view of the surrounding woodlands. Or enjoy a premium glass of wine or a full brunch in the shady, comfortable, outdoor lounge. If one arrives at sunset for a cocktail, the space becomes

even more magical with twinkling lights. Or one might consider booking the spacious, private 20-person dining room for an upcoming special event..

Inspired by the seasons of the year, executive chef Scot Livingston’s thoughtful menus combine the sumptuous local ingredients of Northern California with global flavors and tastes. A former chef de cuisine at the Michelin-starred La Toque, Livingston has refined his approach to food at some of California’s best restaurants, including Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel and Montage Laguna Beach.

His style, both analytical and artistic, is rooted in summers learning to cook from his mother and to preserve the seasonal bounty on his grandparents’

TALENT Chef Scot Livingston brings inspiration and formidable technique to Forum’s menu.

«« farm. As such, his appreciation shines through for not only fresh produce but marked touches like preserved lemon or a simple but intricately created vinaigrette.

Chef Livingston’s international technique and refinement permeate the entire menu, featuring locally sourced ingredients, from spiced pancakes and carnitas Benedict for breakfast, to seared diver scallops or Petaluma chicken for dinner. And all is with an emphasis on enjoying community, whether one lives here or is a visitor.

“Forum was envisioned with community in mind,” explains Livingston. “We have created a place where Napa Valley visitors and community members can enjoy innovative yet familiar dishes with the intuitive and gracious service for which Meadowood is known.”

The singular dishes are accompanied by an exceptional wine list curated by wine director Jilian Riley. With a drinks menu for everyone, it also features handcrafted cocktails, craft beers and

non-alcoholic beverages. Yet Riley’s attention to detail when it comes to wines that pair well with Livingston’s cuisine is something one will want to be sure to experience.

Try a first course of green and white asparagus that Livingston has prepared with a luscious blend of sunflower seeds, sesame and cumin, along with a kaffir lime vinaigrette. Riley suggests pairing this beautiful dish with a glass of light, crisp 2018 Robert Sinskey “Abraxas” Riesling and Pinot Blanc.

Then try the Roasted Petaluma Chicken, dressed with Moroccan spices, almonds and my favorite ingredient, preserved lemon. Order a glass of Raul Pérez “Ultreia St. Jacques” Media Bierzo 2020, and one has an unusual and perfect pairing that will impress a date.

For dessert, keep the momentum going with one of pastry chef Kristin Davison’s inspired desserts. Davison and Livingston originally met at Montage restaurant, where their collaboration in

the kitchen led to romance and marriage. They have a mutual attention to detail that pairs well.

Each of Davison’s creations includes delectable and substantial garnishes that compliment the main dessert, like the Café au Lait Creme Brûlée, which arrives with a creamy vanilla chantilly accompanied by a crispy biscotti. Or, if one likes fruit, try the rhubarb tart, served with local strawberries and amaretto ice cream.

And for those who love chocolate, don’t miss the Valrhona Carmelia with chocolate fudge that effortlessly consorts with raspberries and dainty meringue “mushrooms.” While having dessert, remember to check out Riley’s ever-changing and inspired dessert wine menu with a choice of sweet.

All in all, a special experience in a historic setting, Forum is an exceptional place to slow down and enjoy notable local fare with a community vibe. w

VIEW Forum’s indoor dining room boasts lush verdant views.

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Arts Healing

Evo Spa + Lifestyle Boutique

BY ISABELLA COOK

One wouldn’t know simply by looking at the chic storefront of Evo Spa + Lifestyle Boutique that, just behind the front desk and through a pair of auspiciously tall, teal-streaked wooden doors, an entire realm of self-care, self-indulgence and spa-centric wonders awaits.

PHOTOS BY ISABELLA COOK

RELAX Gail Ann, owner of Evo Spa, stands outside the entrance to her lifestyle boutique alongside her trusted general manager, Sue Mun.

described “hippie.” She opened Evo Spa in 2004 with the goal of providing much-needed (and much-appreciated) de-stressing services to the Strawberry community. By opening in a shopping center, she hoped to bring high-quality spa treatments to an accessible and approachable platform for all.

“I was offered the [Strawberry] shopping center base to do the spa,” said Ann. “It was always my dream to have a healing center, a respite for the community to come to and just let go.”

Ann’s love of all things wellness did not begin with her entrepreneurial endeavors at Evo, however. Rather, she recalls her interest in spirituality, health and wellbeing as having begun in, “the middle of nowhere, California,” where she lived off the grid for a time, without electricity and deeply entrenched in nature.

“I would spend every day in such close connection with the land,” explained Ann. “I’d bake my own bread on this woodburning stove, and it really was such a life-changing era of my life.”

In 1975, Ann worked as a street artist in San Francisco, selling jewelry on the Fisherman’s Wharf and waiting to see where life would take her next. At the suggestion of a friend, the next step turned out to be a pilgrimage to Southern California to study the up-andcoming trend of facial treatments. While there, she received her credentials as an esthetician and officially became a certified member of the health and wellness community.

“I followed the yellow brick road, and that’s pretty much how I’ve lived my life,” said Ann. “I live very in-the-moment, and it drives people crazy.”

««

Crossing the threshold from boutique to spa feels very much akin to stepping into a speakeasy; the doors shut quietly behind, and all that remains is a clandestine-feeling hallway lit only by high-up crystalline chandeliers that spill refractions of soft light across the ceiling and down the walls.

On either side of the hallway are doors, all of which promise private spaces for spa treatments, such as massage areas, changing rooms and, at the very end, a

waiting room where guests may relax before and/or after their treatments.

“Uptight, wound-up people are an inspiring challenge,” said Gail Ann, owner and founder of Evo Spa in Mill Valley. “I’ve been doing this now for 44 years now, and I’ve always just loved connecting with people on a deeper level, loved healing and loved sharing what I’ve learned about health and wellness with others.”

Ann is a North Bay local and a self-

In 1988, Ann’s yellow brick road led her back to the Bay Area, where she has since remained with her daughter, Neka Pasquale. She took after her mother’s entrepreneurial spirit, as well as her interest in health and wellness, and has gone on to open her own business: a juice company called Urban Remedy.

“When I first opened this spa, people weren’t ready for a lot of the more advanced and alternative treatments, and now are willing to give more holistic approaches to wellness a try,” explained Ann. “It is in part because all those things I was into—oh, however long ago—are

SENSE Evo Spa provides a sensory-pleasing and chic experience.

Our mission today is the same as it has been for the past 23 years: to consistently serve amazing food while offering warm, welcoming service and to give back to our community, continuing to make Il Davide, our city and neighborhood better places for our customers and ourselves.

becoming much more mainstream, like yoga, for example.”

In order for Evo Spa to survive to see the evolution of mainstream wellness, it endured successfully for nearly two full decades—19 years, to be exact. But, ironically, the spa’s journey was not without a few incredibly stress-inducing situations.

In addition to outlasting the recent pandemic (thanks in part to offering outdoor massages in a time of greatly heightened stress), Evo Spa has weathered steadily through the economic crash of 2008, as well as a devastating fire in 2013. The blaze caused the establishment to close for four months and required the entire back of the building to be rebuilt.

“I got a call at three in the morning and was told that my building was on fire,” said Ann. “It was so unexpected, but I knew right away that we would rebuild.”

The goal date for Evo’s grand reopening was set, in Ann’s mind, for before the holiday rush. Her contractor, on the other hand, had other ideas:

“The contractor wanted to open later, you see,” explained Ann. “Before

Thanksgiving was my goal because I wanted to be open in time to do Christmas, but he didn’t seem to think it was doable. I convinced him otherwise, told him there was no other option and that ‘time is an illusion’—so long story short, we opened right before Thanksgiving!”

In the four months it took to reopen Evo Spa following the destructive wake of the fire, all but one of the 40 employees returned to their previous roles upon reopening.

“My team is just so amazing,” said Ann. “There are so many moving parts, and I simply don’t hire anyone who isn’t exceptional, and not just in talent and certification, but in energy and spirit as well.”

Evo Spa has evolved to seamlessly blend the spiritual and scientific realms of health, wellness and beauty into a sensory-pleasing and chic experience. The products sold in the boutique are selected for their high efficacy, and the treatments at Evo Spa rely entirely on the certified expertise of Ann’s hand-selected staff.

And the amethyst crystal healing biomats located under all of the massage tables certainly aren’t hurting anybody.

The spa offers a wide selection of services, including massage therapy, waxing and wellness procedures such as red light therapy, detoxifying foot baths and the far-infrared sauna treatment.

Perhaps the most impressive among Evo Spa’s services is the variety of facial treatments. Cleansing, hydrating, firming, calming and indulgent are just a few of the quick guide facial treatments available. Add-ons are also offered and may include hydrating eye treatments, ultrasonic wands, LED light panels and/or a scalp treatment.

“I wish these kinds of treatment could be free for everyone…it’s just so important to really take the time to take care of yourself,” concluded Ann.

Evo Spa is located in the Strawberry Village shopping center and may be reached by calling 415.383.3223. To schedule an appointment or learn more about spa services and products, visit evo-spa.com.

INSPIRED ’Uptight, wound-up people are an inspiring challenge,’ said Gail Ann, owner and founder of Evo Spa.

Homecoming

Station House Cafe back to its beginnings

BY ISABELLA COOK

For nearly 60 years, Station House Cafe has played host to the hungry locals and passers-by of downtown Point Reyes Station. And, as an exciting twist of fate, the restaurant has officially returned to its original building, the same one that launched its grand opening in 1964.

Though the years have seen changes in ownership, staff and site location, the spirit of this down-home diner has remained unimpeachably inviting. And the food, well, it’s exactly the kind of fare one hopes to find before or after a West Marin adventure, with downright delicious options for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner.

The 102-year-old historic Station House Cafe building has now been

PHOTOS BY MICHAEL WOOLSEY

BEGIN The original, 102-year-old historic Station House Cafe building has been completely restored.

completely restored, including a brand new kitchen, a fresh coat of pleasantly yellow paint (citrine yellow for prosperity, according to Sheryl Cahill, the current owner of Station House Cafe and Side Street Kitchen, another popular local eatery in Point Reyes). The indoor decor went through a complete overhaul as well and now toes the line between spacious, modern and minimal while simultaneously maintaining its inviting atmosphere and the most important elements of the original space.

Table Six, for instance, is one of the original tables from Station House Cafe and has a history of being a gathering place for the local community. This relic

of Point Reyes has a place of honor in the new Station House Cafe. The old Station House sign hangs behind the table, tucked high up over the entranceway.

Alongside the preservation of the old is the inclusion of the new, which Cahill has seamlessly integrated through local artists and artisans. The walls and halls of Station House Cafe are tastefully decorated with works from Mary Mountcastle Eubank, Rosalynd Roos Merrill, Art Rogers, Meryl Pataky and Urban Garden Studio (to name only a few).

“When I joined the staff, the cafe had just moved locations—it was brand new, and I was part of the first wave of rehires after the relocation,” said Cahill. “It was

really interesting and busy, and I got to know the community really well.”

“I started as a server,” continued Cahill. “I was a young mom, about 27, and after a few months I became assistant manager, then general manager and, well, now I’m the owner!”

Cahill left Station House Cafe briefly in 1998 to pursue her longtime dream of returning to university for higher education. She finished, having studied anthropology, and, in 2004, she was summoned to return to her roots at the Station House Cafe.

“When I finished school in 2004, I was contacted because the previous owner had passed away, and they were

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looking for a manager to get the place back in shape to sell,” explained Cahill. “I said I’d come and help her out for one year, and one year only. But when I got there, it felt like home, and six months later, I owned the cafe and it just felt incredible.”

As a North Bay local and longtime employee of Station House Cafe, Cahill was perfectly poised to ease the transition of ownership and maintain the memory of the original order of operations.

“I didn’t make any big changes, though I did gradually shift some things over time,” said Cahill. “But the big changes with the cafe came with this move and with COVID, which provided an excellent buffer for our transition.”

Cahill miraculously managed to see Station House Cafe through the pandemic, even though she was positive the establishment would close due to it. But after announcing the cafe’s imminent closure, she received a wave of support from not only locals, but from people all across the globe as well.

“I thought my business was basically over and had announced that we would be closing,” said Cahill. “But after the announcement, so many people reached out to me from all over the world to share their stories about Station House and what it meant to them: patrons, people who met their life partner here, those

who worked here—there were so many stories, and it fortified the foundation of my belief that Station House was and is something really special.”

With no small amount of determination, local support and a little bit of luck, Cahill was able to ride out the pandemic and, in the meantime, prepare to move locations back to the original building just a hop, skip and a jump down Point Reyes Station’s downtown strip.

“It was an unexpected and remarkable gift to get the offer to move back here, especially when just the roundedness of that, of moving back to where it all began…it made it feel like we weren't starting over, but were just moving into the next natural iteration of Station House,” said Cahill. “If it had been a random place we moved to, it would have felt a lot more like starting over than coming home. Continuity in a small town matters.”

Station House Cafe officially opened its doors to the public on Sunday, June 11, having received its final permit on Tuesday afternoon (and the furniture on Wednesday).

“The opening was a constellation of miracles, honestly,” admitted Cahill.

“I was just so touched by the way our staff, none of whom asked to start a brand new job, executed that pre-opening day

symphony,” continued Cahill. “Sure, we’re still working out some bugs, but to have everyone on the team’s enthusiasm to do the best they can is kind of an emotional realization for me—it was fun, and everyone was excited and they all did an amazing job with phenomenal attitude and enthusiasm through the roof.”

With an entirely refurbished interior, state-of-the-art kitchen included, and the passion of the people who comprise the Station House Cafe legacy, this local eatery will more than likely remain a hub of Point Reyes Station for another 60 years, at the very least.

“We hope that everyone will come and visit us, even if they just want to peek in and look around, find what’s familiar and what’s new or find their new favorite table,” concluded Cahill. “We’re just looking forward to welcoming everyone at the new Station House Cafe.”

Station House Cafe is now located at its original location and can be found at 11285 CA-1 in downtown Point Reyes Station on the corner of 3rd Street and Main. The eatery is open from 11am to 8pm Monday, Tuesday and Thursday; from 11am to 9pm Friday; 10am to 9pm Saturday; and 10am to 8pm Sunday. The cafe is closed on Wednesdays. For more information, visit the Station House Cafe website at stationhousecafe.com or call 415.663.1515.

The opening was a constellation of miracles, honestly.

—  SHERYL CAHILL