Most reviews by James Knight. Note: Those listings marked ‘WC’ denote wineries with caves. These wineries are usually only open to the public by appointment. Wineries in these listings appear on a rotating basis.
S O N OM A CO U N T Y
relationship with the West Block Pinot. 6192 Westside Road, Healdsburg. Thursday– Monday 11am–4pm. 707.433.2305.
Adobe Road Winery
Selby Winery Regularly
Award-winning Cab, Pinot, Zin, Cab Franc, Syrah and Petite Sirah. Their tasting room is located in Sonoma on the Plaza. 481 First St. W., Sonoma. 707.939.9099.
D’Argenzio Winery Much like the family-run, backstreet bodegas of the old country that the decor invokes. Sangiovese, Moscato di Fresco, and Randy Rhoads Cab. 1301 Cleveland Ave., Santa Rosa. Daily 11am–5pm. $10 tasting fee. 707.280.4658.
Eric Ross Winery Just friendly folks pouring Pinot, Zin and Marsanne-Roussane; don’t ask about the rooster. Ask about the rooster. 14300 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Thursday-Monday 11am–5pm. 707.939.8525. Littorai Wines The future of integrated, sustainable wine farms may be glimpsed through a window darkly, while Sonoma Coast Pinot and Chard are brilliant in the glass. Tour and tasting by appointment. In west Sebastopol. 707.823.9586.
Matrix Winery Taking over the former warren of Rabbit Ridge, Mazzocco Winery’s new spinoff promises (threatens?) “Wines to die for.” Pinot, Zin and Syrah are tragically good; bar stool seating and a relaxed vibe are pluses. 3291 Westside Road, Healdsburg. Tasting fee $5. 707.433.1911.
Ravenswood Winery The winery motto is “No wimpy wines,” and they make strong, much-praised Zinfandels. A great place to learn that wine is supposed to be fun. 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma. Open daily, 10am–5pm. 707.933.2332.
Rochioli Vineyards & Winery White House scrapbook details dozens of luncheon menus featuring waiting-list-only Rochioli wine. Tony Blair had a special
served at White House state dinners, Selby Chard has been through several administrations. 215 Center St., Healdsburg. Open daily, 11am–5:30pm. 707.431.1288.
Topel Winery Hailing from Hopland, Topel offers estategrown Meritage and other wines in this well-appointed tasting room with casement windows open to the street, across from Oakville Grocery. Cedar, chicory, chocolate and brown spice–makes one hungry for a portobellomushroom-on-focaccia sandwich. 125 Matheson St., Hopland. Open daily, 11am– 7pm. Tasting fees, $5–$12. 707.433.4116.
Vinoteca Vinify Wine Services is like a Russian doll of wineries within wineries making brands for still more clients. It’s in a generic industrial-park location, but with unique, single-vineyard wines from Frostwatch, Baker Lane, Bjornstad, Super Sonoman and others. 3358 Coffey Lane, Ste. C, Santa Rosa. Friday– Sunday 11am–5pm. $10 fee. 707.542.3292.
N A PA CO U N TY August Briggs Winery Tasting room is a white barn lit by skylights and often staffed by the owner’s wife or mother. 333 Silverado Trail, Calistoga. Open Thursday– Sunday, 11:30am–4:30pm. 707.942.5854.
Black Stallion Winery Owned by a pair of Midwest liquor-distribution barons who hired a capable winemaker and envision it to be a retaildestination winery. The wines are quite good. 4089 Silverado Trail, Napa. Open daily, 10am– 5pm. 707.253.1400.
Chateau Montelena The winery triumphed at the 1976 “Judgment of Paris” tasting where French judges, quelle horreur, found that they had awarded top honors to a California contender. 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga. Open daily, 9:30am–4pm. 707.942.5105. Frank Family Vineyards A media mogul imagineered a Napa Valley winery that’s surprisingly no-frills, friendly and free of charge, from the flute of bubbly welcome to the last sip of award-winning Cab. Emphasis is on the historic Larkmead winery, the wine and, natch, the guest at this popular tasting room set in the winery’s remodeled craftsman farmhouse. Frank Family Vineyards, 1091 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga. Tasting daily, 10am–4pm, $10; reserve, $25. 707.942.0753.
Olabisi & Trahan Wineries In the fancy heart of downtown Napa, a low-budget “cellar” where wines are shelved, with clever economy, in stacks of wood pallets; vibes are laid-back and real. Carneros Chardonnay and fruity but firm and focused Cab and Merlot from Suisin Valley, Napa’s much less popular stepsister to the east. 974 Franklin St., Napa. Open daily, noon–5:30pm. Tasting fee, $15. 707.257.7477.
Summers Estate Wines Excellent Merlot and that rarest of beasts, Charbono. Small tasting room and friendly staff. 1171 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga. Open daily, 10am– 4:30pm. 707.942.5508.
Uncorked at Oxbow Across from the Public Market, this remodeled house in Napa’s historic “Little Italy” is a casual and unaffected joint. Ahnfeldt and Carducci wines include estate Merlot, Syrah, Cab, vinted by Paul Hobbs. Don’t ask about the horse. 605 First St., Napa. Open daily, noon–8pm; winter hours vary. Tasting fee, $10–$20. 707.927.5864.
Sonoma Valley Portworks
I
n the middle of the night, friends of Sonoma Valley Portworks might get a call. No, they’re not unloading contraband down by the docks under cover of a fog that lurks over the slough like a jealous lover. Although it’s a smalltime crime to call a wine “port” when it wasn’t made in Portugal, it’s all on the level here in Petaluma—grandfathered in. For 20 years, Bill Reading has been creating flavorful dessert wines in a style all his own.
Where was I? Having another sip. Ah, yes . . . The folks at SVP make California port in an industrial sector of Petaluma that includes Cowgirl Creamery and Aqus Cafe, and which retains its ramshackle charm while drawing customers from the Theater District nearby. “We like to say it’s a well-kept secret,” says retail sales director Caryn Reading. “But don’t keep it a secret.” Damn, this port is good! If you have two glasses, don’t fret—it’s served in such tiny glasses . . . As I was saying: About those midnight calls, to produce some of their port, SVP practices the ancient method of foot treading. When it gets down to 9 percent sugar, the pressing must be done; feet rallied to action no matter what inopportune the hour. Curious tasters may simply sidle down Second Street on any long weekend. The warehouse is decorated with old vines and lights, the bar is a simple across-two-barrels affair. Tchotchkes are at a minimum, but everybody gets a button. One says, “Lick my glass!” This is the home of DECO Port ($18), the first California dessert wine packaged in a tall, thin bottle. This tawny-style, sweet wine made from California Zinfandel and Australian Shiraz and Grenache has just a hint of chocolate. The Aris Petite Sirah Port ($30) is a sweet, substantial ruby wine; while the Aris Petite Verdot Port ($30) is substantially different, with a dry, tannic finish and herbal high notes. The Maduro ($40) has nutty, Frangelico aromas and is said to pair well with aged cheese and desserts: “We have what I call high-calorie conversations,” Reading says of visitors whose imaginations are spurred by their wines. The Spirit of the Harvest Grappa ($35) is made from the juicy remnants of gentle foot-treading and imparts a clean, fruity, ghostof-the-grape aroma after being distilled next door at Stillwater Spirits. This spirit may be sniffed and purchased on the premises, but not tasted—some things are still verboten by the Fed, down by the docks. Sonoma Valley Portworks, 613 Second St., Petaluma. Thursday–Monday, noon to 5pm, and by appointment. No tasting fee; donations to Committee on the Shelterless accepted. 707.769.5203.—James Knight
NORTH BAY BOHEMIAN | FEBRUARY 1–7, 2012 | BOHEMIAN.COM
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Wineries
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