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Filmmaker Rudy McClain saves Merlot from ‘Sideways’ sniping erlot is suing for libel, and Rudy McClain is its expert attorney. As the Napa Valley native boasts a rĂŠsumĂŠ as both filmmaker and wine aficionado, he is the perfect man to mount a defense for this defamed French varietal. His documentary, Merlove, celebrates its joys; V. Sattui Winery hosts an outdoor screening June 11. Onscreen, McClain interviews winemakers from Napa Valley, Washington state and Bordeaux, France, about their experiences with Merlot. He describes the film as a “fun, philosophical journey.â€? Ever since the release of the 2004 film Sideways, Merlot’s sales have dropped dramatically. Miles Raymond, the cantankerous protagonist portrayed by Paul Giamatti, spirals into a rage about the possibility that his company might want to drink Merlot. “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving,â€? he vows. This fictional character’s tirade seeped into wine consumer culture. “For a while, it was a faux pas to drink Merlot,â€? says Claudette Shatto, vice president of marketing at V. Sattui Winery. “Merlot has been something people hide in the back of their closets.â€? McClain has a theory on why a fictional character can influence the market. “I think it goes back to middle school,â€? he muses. “People are afraid to show up with the wrong clothes or the wrong watch. Anything concrete they can latch on to, they’ll go with.â€? This taboo against Merlot wormed its way into the wine community so wantonly that it devastated livelihoods. “Lots of [growers] picked up and replanted their vineyards,â€? Shatto says. “But Pinot Noir was flying off the shelves.â€? Miles, remember, favors Pinot Noir. But McClain is not so easily swayed. “Merlot is a chameleon,â€? he says. “Depending on where it’s grown, it tastes different. It can be an expression of where it’s from.â€? Shatto agrees, calling it “robust, bright, fruity and more food-friendly than Cabernet.â€? Merlove screens outdoors at V. Sattui Winery on Friday, June 11. Bring low-back chairs, blankets, children and even the family dog to eat a picnic dinner and drink a glass of wine (guess which kind?) under the stars. 1111 White Lane, St. Helena. Greet the filmmakers at 7:30pm; film at 8:30pm. $5–$10. 707.963.7774.

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Caroline Osborn

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