MP issue#107 October 2019

DESIGNS OF THE TIMES Hamad Zubaid

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THE STYLE EDITION ISSUE NUMBER 311 - OCTOBER 2019

RE-INVENTING OURSELVES Dear Passionate Readers, Re-inventing myself was supposedly one of my biggest fortes throughout my life.

Yet, somehow along the way, there was a time that (I have to confess) I stopped wanting to re-invent.

Was it because I was becoming complacent in my comfort zone?

Or, was it the effect of so many people around me who looked like they were having a far more stable life as they navigated the same course throughout their lives?

Or, was it the words of caution and reprimand from those who don’t have it in them to take risks and saw me falter one more than one occasion?

Whatever it may have been, I would like to share with you some insights I had recently as the burning flame within my soul was, as if by magic, reignited again.

We are who we are, and we will never change!!

Those who are born risk takers will always take risks.

Those who are born cautious and over analytical will remain moving slowly yet steadily through life.

There is no right way or wrong way, to each his own. The world needs all sorts of people to go around, but one thing for sure is wrong: that is trying to be someone you are not!!

I have been cautious for years now, but I was never born that way!

I have tried to maintain the status quo, but life has changed so much that, thank God, it has forced me to change myself. To re-invent myself!

And I cannot begin to tell you how much I am truly enjoying the process!!

To re-inventing ourselves, Till next issue,

Zeina Mokaddam

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ON THE COVER: October 2019 While art and artists may legitimize themselves through a specific object or even an event, architecture – by necessity - dissolves into a blur of buildings. Under all of its constraints of engineering safety, function, climate responsibility and economy, architecture transcends to inspire us with ideas using merely space and light qualities delivered in the abstract.

A work of architecture is formed from an idea – in execution, it is an organic link between architect’s concept and physical form. The architect’s idea may remain a hidden thread connecting otherwise incongruous parts – but with exact intention.

Pieces cannot be subtracted or added without upsetting fundamental properties.

DESIGNS OF THE TIMES Hamad Zubaid

CONTENTS 18

The Perfect Meeting of Form and Funcation The Work of HZMB Architects Hamad Zubaid and Mona Al-Baghli

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THE BIG READ Nimbys VERSUS Yimbys

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BeEmpowered, BeDamas Damas’s CEO Asil Attar raises the region’s gold standard

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Tania Fares Fashion Trust Arabia – putting fashion at the heart of contemporary culture Designing Perfection Dolce&Gabbana’s Sicily bag

Expand this concept from building, to buildings, and then to neighborhoods and entire cities, and this is the world Hamad Zubaid and Mona AlBaghli inhabit. Learn more about them and their work in this month’s cover story.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nouf Al-Hajri LEGAL CONSULTANT Khaled Al-Kandari Al-Kandari Law Firm PUBLISHED BY

MANAGING DIRECTOR Zeina Mokaddam OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Mishleen AlKazzi MANAGING EDITOR Simon Balsom EDITORS Rawan Qabazard Anju Kakar CONTRIBUTORS Zeina Al-Ayoub Adel Al-Ansari Yousif Abdulsayed Jalil Marvin SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Shadi Moufied IN-HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY Maher Al-Nouri PH7 is a specialized publishing house based in Kuwait.

Telephone +(965) 2572 0810 Fax +(965) 2572 0860 Website www.ph7-kw.com To maintain the desired quality of our publication, your contribution and feedback are welcomed.

Please email your suggestions to info@ph7-kw.com For advertising, please contact info@ph7-kw.com For subscription, please email info@ph7-kw.com PH7 wishes to state that the opinions expressed in MEN’S PASSION are those of the authors concerned and not necessarily those of the publisher.

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The Perfect Meeting of Form and Funcation The Work of HZMB Architects - Hamad Zubaid and Mona Al-Baghli

Before looking at the work, and process, of one of Kuwait’s leading architecture practises, it is, perhaps, appropriate to take a moment and reflect on what architecture and an architect is.

While art and artists may legitimize themselves through a specific object or even an event, architecture – by necessity - dissolves into a blur of buildings. Under all of its constraints of engineering safety, function, climate responsibility and economy, architecture transcends to inspire us with ideas using merely space and light - qualities delivered in the abstract.

COVER STORY

Modern interpretation of classic design elements

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A work of architecture is formed from an idea – in execution, it is an organic link between architect’s concept and physical form. The architect’s idea may remain a hidden thread connecting otherwise incongruous parts – but with exact intention. Pieces cannot be subtracted or added without upsetting fundamental properties.

Expand this concept from building, to buildings, and then to neighborhoods and entire cities, and this is the world Hamad Zubaid and Mona Al-Baghli inhabit.

Let’s learn more about their approach to this noble cause…

What is HZMB’s design philosophy We provide optimum design solutions that address function with a clear vision of the form, shaping the mass and volume to create aesthetically pleasing and unique architecture that reflects the function housed within.

When we tackle function, we challenge it, reform it, philosophize it & develop it with clients because a correct space program is the key of a healthy design.

We create customized engineering solutions for each design to make it work efficiently in a way we call 0-FAT solutions.

Excellence is their goal, and they often quote Aristotle in this regard: “We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not and act, but a habit.”

What sets you and your firm apart from other architects?

Our product is our signature. Our uniqueness creates something within our work – an element that is difficult for others to replicate. This is the result of our extensive thinking, problem solving process and, of course, a lot of hard work. These elements change constantly, through careful evolution, developing to adapt and represent the moment in time it was created.

Building unfolds in harmony with the landscape, transforming compound into a resort...

COVER STORY

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“We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not and act, but a habit.”

What also sets HZMB apart from other firms is the collaboration between its two partners, Hamed Zubaid and Mona Al-Baghli, and their understanding of regional lifestyle and culture, the balance between male and female perspectives from different generations also perfects the equation.

What do you see as the important issues or considerations before taking on a new project?

Land, budget and client requirements are what define 50% of a project’s direction and, as designers, we can only control the other 50%. It is crucial to have a balanced equilibrium between the three elements to ensure the optimum design outcome.

What are the steps in the design process, and how are they organized?

1. Space Program – client requirements are outlined Concept Design – is outcome of an intensive problem-solving design 2. process presented as plans, designed with a clear vision of the exterior form of design.

3. Architecture Exterior Form Design – adding the third dimension and bringing the concept design to life… transforming it to the ultimate shape.

4. Interior Architecture Design - harmony between interior and exterior is crucial.

5. Working Drawings and Engineering - produced to ensure accuracy of construction, that it is highly coordinated and well-engineered.

6. Construction and Supervision Stage – supervision to ensure proper and intended construction of design.

What criteria are used to establish priorities and make design decisions?

Our ultimate goal is to create unique architecture through concepts the reach optimum requirements. To achieve this, transparency and harmony between interiors and landscape is essential. The use of natural light and

the creation of lighting scenes that transform spaces at night are key pillars within our architecture.

Everyone knows what they like, aesthetically. But there’s a difference between ‘good’ and ‘bad’ architecture. Can you quantify the cornerstones of each for us?

Good architecture should be unique and original, pleasant on the eyes, not forced, timeless, like a good song, with good lyrics and music. You enjoy it now and will appreciate it more as time passes.

And, simply, bad architecture is the opposite – strange, lacking originality and follows fading trends.

Kuwait’s approach to architecture: What is the temperature of the architectural scene in Kuwait today.

Are we getting it right? Or, how wrong is it all looking?

Kuwait architecture is an international melting-pot of different styles and influences. There are some successful attempts when it comes to major projects in Kuwait. This has happened as a result of the influence of international firms here over recent decades, and recently significant architectural landmarks have placed Kuwait on the global radar.

Yet, these stand as solo projects, without reference to any intelligible architectural language forming within the country. The private sector lacks direction or an overall comprehensive vision for the Kuwaiti architectural scene.

We would love to witness the spread of cultural awareness on the importance and ‘value’ of good design. We welcome clients hiring architects with expertise, and those who place value and appreciation on good design as much as they do on expensive marble.

We’re looking forward to society’s enlightenment, and the day when it understands design’s role and its significance in affecting every project’s outcome.

COVER STORY

Majlis Building: Symmetry & balance add a classic flavor to modern architecture... traditional elements redefined

Warm and welcoming shaded entrance designed considering harsh climate conditions of region

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Transparency... blurring boundaries between exterior and interior architecture...

What direction would you like to see the country head in – architecturally?

We would like to see more well-designed and well-engineered buildings.

Something pleasant to look at, something that defines our urban fabric, and building that respect each other. Regardless of architectural style, well-designed architecture will always be unique.

Looking back over the history of design and construction in Kuwait, what is the building you most admire?

From the 80s, distinguished buildings at that time such as the Banking Complex, the KFAS building and Al-Ahli bank Headquarters. From the more recent projects, we admire Al-Hamra tower.

Any regrets? (missed opportunities) you’d like to highlight? What key project(s) would you have addressed differently?

Hamad Zubaid: I regret all moments of my life where I did not design…. I am a designer and now I have realised that I can contribute most to my community as a designer. Then again, maybe those years spent on other areas made me the architect I am today…

Mona Al-Baghli: We change and develop daily, we learn new things and discover new potential at such speed nowadays it’s hard to keep up. So, if I was given the chance to redesign or address a project that I finished last year, I would definitely do it differently as who I am today is not who I will be next year.

Classic refined architecture in modern day Qatar

COVER STORY

The design approach transforms the traditional rigid compound stereotype into an oasis where buildings unfold in harmony with the landscape

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THE BIG READ Nimbys VERSUS Yimbys Frances Anderton’s Letter from Los Angeles

I moved to Los Angeles in the early 1990s, a fascinating time. It was a moment of transition between yesterday’s and tomorrow’s LA; the tail end of four decades of Reyner Banham’s LA of Four Ecologies, involving neartotal car dependency, sprawling and zoned development, and a lifestyle centered on private, personal space, much of it very affordable.

This was a time when architects, many attracted by LA’s theory-free variant on postmodernism by the then-subversives -- Frank Gehry, Thom Mayne, Eric Owen Moss, etc. -- were able to test formal ideas on affordable single-family homes or small commercial or art spaces, out of sight of the critical glare found in global cities.

Then came social, economic and physical upheaval -- the 1992 Rodney King riots, the 1994 earthquake, mass immigration. Out of strife came rebuilding, a greater engagement with the civic sphere, and the start of a huge infrastructure construction program intended to transfer the vast concrete LA River; and overlay a mass transit system on top of a reluctant Metropolis -- all in readiness for the 2028 Olympic Games.

Now LA is in boomtown mode, and seems to have join the pantheon of global cities, but housing has become a source of extreme tension.

Right now in downtown LA and on arterial streets there is an explosion of tall towers or medium-sized structures containing “market-rate” apartments. These multi-storey, multifamily buildings have ditched the personal back yard for the communal rooftop garden; and the once mandatory two parking spaces for a bicycle rack and a shared dog run on a terrace in the sky.

Some come in the form of glassy 30-50 story towers, developed by faceless conglomerates, mostly in the city’s downtown area, and mostly rather bland. A few have big design names attached: among them Herzog and de Meuron, Frank Gehry, Stanley Saitowitz, Rem Koolhaas and Bjarke Ingels.

Others are lower and conform to a building typology here nicknamed Five Over Two (two stories concrete, five stories stick and stucco).

At worst, these can be utterly generic.

At best, they are attracting LA’s most creative design firms -- LOHA, Kevin Daly, Brooks + Scarpa, Michael Maltzan, Koning Eizenberg -- who are making a mark in housing as they once once established themselves with houses. Projects like LOHA’s Mariposa 1038 tinker with the format to make more lively facades, using window designs, colors, murals, glazing and cladding treatments, and more interesting articulation of the facades, to break the uniformity.

But these projects are appearing at the very same time that Los Angeles is experiencing an extreme crisis of homelessness.

DESIGN

Almost 60,000 people now live on the streets of the Southland, many in “modern dome” tents (designed by camping enthusiasts in the 1970s who were inspired by Buckminster Fuller; they don’t need to be pegged into the earth) that can be set up on sidewalks throughout the region.

The jury is out on the exact causes of homelessness but the list includes the 2008 housing collapse, the 21st century opioid epidemic, the 1990s crack cocaine epidemic, the 1980s closure of state-owned mental institutions, the depositing of homeless people in LA from other cities; and the gentrification of much of Los Angeles housing stock, including much of the Skid Row area where the homeless once lived in SROs (Single Room Occupancy hostels) that are now converted into coveted loft living spaces.

So the above-mentioned architects are also trying to make the best possible “affordable,” or subsidized, housing, which is pieced together through complicated funding processes, can cost staggering amounts ($400,000 for the average “affordable” unit) and invariably faces intense pushback from Angelenos.

Because if anything denotes LA right now it is warfare over housing.

Almost every project, for rich and poor, involves a struggle; elected officials win or lose elections on the strength of their position on housing and you find an almost generational split between NIMBYs (Not in My Backyard) and advocates for more housing, known as YIMBYs (Yes in My Back Yard).

And here we get to one of the most intriguing aspects of the design process. When Gensler and the clients started work on the stadium, it was for a team that at that point didn’t exist.

The tension is because 80 percent of LA’s residential land is zoned R1, for single family homes; these zones butt right up against arterial streets where high density development is intended to be built.

Notwithstanding the bike racks, the new housing invariably adds traffic to already jammed streets and Angelenos who live in the R1 areas push back, even when new projects come in alluring packages by the likes of Ingels, Koolhaas, Herzog and de Meuron or Gehry.

After all, many people moved here to get away from density and mass transit and to enjoy a lifestyle that would not involve being packed in like New Yorkers.

So the region is in the midst of a fundamental change, as it transitions from one form of lifestyle and landuse to another, ill-defined, fifth ecology. Reyner Banham would be quite surprised if he could see LA now.

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BeEmpowered, BeDamas Damas’s CEO Asil Attar raises the region’s gold standard

With an impressive heritage stretching back more than 110 years, leading luxury brand Damas has put a whole new spring in its step as it raises the stakes for the Middle East’s other gold and jewelry brands through the launch of 25 new store openings and renovations. This comes just six months after the company placed Asil Attar at its helm – making her the first female CEO in the history of Damas. Our Hind Nassar met Asil in Dubai on the eve of the launch of the brand’s ‘City of Gold’ campaign.

DESIGN

“This is just the start of my journey.”

Shortly before the opening of a spectacular event at The Gaillard, hosted by Damas Chairman, Hamdi Chatti and CEO Asil Attar, during which the new stores were revealed across the GCC through a panArab live feed, Asil announced “Damas will continue to invest in the region, we sit on an impressive portfolio that we want to enhance whilst simultaneously identifying new opportunities in key markets.

International expansion is also on the agenda, as we continue to maintain and gain market share.” said Attar.

to be number one in whatever capacity that we can be. We need to be an example to others. Damas is already a leader – it has 100 years of heritage, it owns a great market share… combined, that’s a very powerful base to begin with. I’m proud to be the very first female CEO for the group. When you have a combination of history and heritage and a visionary mind that wants to take it to another level and maximize it and potentialize it, this means you’re focused, you have an objective, and you’re really going for it!

Damas - a regional brand with a global outlook, sophisticated, empowered cultured and modern – and now with a woman at the helm

HN: What, from its heritage, are you using to push Damas forward?

For the past decade, Asil has held a number of firsts, placing her as the first female CEO for three of the Middle East’s leading groups, most recently as the CEO for Damas Jewellery, their first female CEO in over 100 years. Attar is an ambassador for women empowerment, inspiring women of all ages to reach their potential and achieve their goals.

Hind Nassar: What’s your leadership style?

Asil Attar: I’m available 24/7, my door is open to everyone and they all know how to reach me at any time. All the employees know me – at whatever level they are within the company. We’re all in this together, and I’m one of them. My leadership style, if it has a name, is human – one-to-one - all the time.

HN: You’ve said before: “I do not compete, I succeed and lead with a focused strategy”. What’s your strategy for Damas moving forward in this belief?

AA: That’s an interesting quote – the DNA of how I lead any business is exactly with complete focus. I’m very clear on the direction and strategic vision that I have, and what leads me in this is that I want

AA: There are a number of key events in our history. 1907 is when we started as goldsmiths – that category of business is still very important to us, and will continue to be. As jewelers, 1959 saw Damas open its first store in Dubai’s gold souq. However, the most powerful thing I’m taking with me is the loyalty of our customers that have grown with us from the very beginning. It’s amazing for me as I sit with women or men of different ages, and they’ll relate stories to me about their grandparents buying things – and about how everything that was bought has become an important part of their family’s history.

It’s constant memory and nostalgia. I’m continuing this journey of emotion and nostalgia, and carrying it to a new era. I’m respecting those who have been with us for years, whilst also engaging a new generation.

HN: You have been with Damas for around 6 months now; how has your experience been so far?

AA: Well, to be honest, it feels more like six years! It’s been an overwhelming and emotional rollercoaster. The months have passed quickly, and with a huge sense of responsibility linked to my desire to make a change as quickly as possible, and to make a change with major impact. This rollercoaster will always continue for me… this is just the start of my journey.

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DESIGN

HN: What are the key directions that you believe will give you a competitive advantage over the next year?

AA: Our prime advantage is that there’s no other company in our sector with a woman leading it. When you have someone running a company who has such an affinity with a product, and the same sensibility as our customers, that presents a lot of advantages when we’re thinking of our growth and new directions. We make decisions from a different angle now… we want to empower and inspire women at Damas.

HN: Being the first female CEO for Damas in over 100 years is definitely a milestone. As a fellow woman, I sure am extremely proud and inspired. In your opinion and to offer advice to tomorrow’s generation of women leaders, what are the characteristics of those most likely to break through?

AA: The first thing is to possess a huge amount of self-belief and drive, coupled with the confidence to do whatever you want to do.

Arm yourself with knowledge too. You can achieve anything you set your mind to – as long as you believe you can achieve it.

What sets you back is when you start to overthink. Know you’ll get rejected a million times… I could tell you stories of a thousand

interviews I went to which, when I left I was certain I’d got the job… only to never hear from the company again. Some of these are brutal memories – you’re so sure you’re going to get it, and then you don’t.

But I’ve learned to accept that sometimes things just aren’t meant to be. Arm yourself with a bullet-proof heart.

And gather a support system of like-minded people who believe in the same things you do. You won’t succeed as a woman alone, you need to the right people around you.

Finally, know this: you are the only thing that’s holding you back!

Know more: Damas is a house of brands, with over 200 stores in the GCC. It is one of the largest standalone multi brand jewelers in the world, offering exclusive collections from some of the world’s most unique brands, Pasquale Bruni, Fope, Magerit, Leo Pizzo to name a few. Damas is also a strategic partner to coveted global brands such as Graff, Roberto Coin, Faberge and Mikimoto, that sit perfectly alongside the equally luxurious in-house brands created by Damas such as Farfasha, One-Six-Eight, Legacy and Rangoli.

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Tania Fares Fashion Trust Arabia – putting fashion at the heart of contemporary culture

In a world where ‘algorithm’, ‘empowerment’, and the ‘new normal’, compete to be amongst the hottest of today’s buzzwords, it is easy for fashion to be viewed as frivolous. In fact, fashion is at the very heart of our contemporary culture. Fashion is fundamental, not frivolous. This is true nowhere more than the Arab World and, if you didn’t already know it, Tania Fares and Fashion Trust Arabia are on a mission to put that right.

DESIGN

Victoria Beckham at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

Maria Milano at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

Donna Hourani at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

Yasmin Mansour at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

Established by Fares in September 2018, under the patronage of HH Sheikha Moza Bint Nasser as Honorary Chair and co-Chaired by HE Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad Al-Thani, FTA is the only initiative of its kind operating in the Arab world, and is dedicated to finding and nurturing talented fashion designers.

With just one year under its belt, for 2020 FTA is ready to step up its game. With new sponsors soon to be unveiled, and strong support from a freshly announced advisory board (which reads like a Rolodex of international fashion goodness), the global fashion industry wants this to succeed. Indeed, it is in their interest for it to succeed.

Tania Fares is a constant traveller. The day we meet – a warm day, still on the summery-side of the coming Levantine autumn - I find her in FTA’s Beirut HQ, huddled under a cashmere shawl, gently sipping her coffee.

“Our first year has seen us growing things slowly, organically. I was keen that we’d learn to walk before we run”, Fares notes. Reaction to FTA’s effects has been universally positive – “People aren’t surprised to see the talent coming out of the region, but they’re happy to see the depth of it. On our part, Fashion Trust Arabia is giving a voice to Arab designers”.

Her week had been nothing out of the ordinary – her ordinary at least.

With meetings in several countries over previous days, she’s touching down at home only until Monday when she heads off again, this time to Amman.

Well-connected within the world of fashion – in 2011 she founded her first Fashion Trust in Britain, is a long-time contributor to Vogue magazine, and extended her portfolio of Fashion Trusts by partnering with the CFDA in the United States – so, perhaps it was only a matter of time before, having chosen to return to her birthplace of Lebanon, that she would establish a Fashion Trust for her home region’s designers.

“I want to bring the west to the Arab World”, she says, her eyes burning brightly as soon as our conversation turns to her favorite topic. “I want everyone to see what our fashion designers are doing here”.

And what a voice: two FTA designers have recently found themselves covered by Vogue Italia. For Sabry Marouf and Krikor Jabotian it is a well-deserved honor indeed and, although they may have been destined for greatness, Fares correctly insists their emergence would not have happened so swiftly were it not for their involvement with FTA. For 2020, Fares and her team invited applications for support across four categories of womenswear - evening wear, ready to wear, accessories, and jewelry. A stipulation is that applicants must have been in business for a minimum of two years. The carrot? Winners of these categories will receive a financial grant up to $200,000 for key areas of business development. That’s quite some motivation.

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Hamza Guelmouss at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

New for FTA’s second round is the ‘Franca Sozzani Debut Talent’ category for applicants who have recently graduated university with a design degree and are beginning to launch their professional career. The winner will receive a financial grant to help jump start their business as well as a tailored mentorship program from industry figures and partners to develop their brand.

Maria Milano at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

“There’s always been talent in this region”, Fares continues, “and over recent years the eyes of the world have been upon us”. It’s fair to say that product designers and artists have been ahead of the curve, but the region’s fashion designers are now catching up fast.

“Our aim is to provide a global marketplace for Arab fashion.

Fashion Trust Arabia is not only about winning an award – it is an opportunity for designers to connect with and be mentored by some of the world’s leading designers and design influencers and, above all, to showcase their work”. Indeed, as Fashion Trust Arabia celebrates Arab designers, the one real winner is Arab design as a whole.

Big plans lay ahead, few of which Fares is prepared to share just yet.

Expect big news in November however and, further down the line, we wouldn’t be surprised to see the announcement of collaborations between emerging FTA designers and established global giants.

“We’re covering a broad region,” Fares reflects. “From Morocco to Oman and everywhere between, but our designers sense their common affinity. Through FTA they meet, and we’ve seen them begin to inspire each other and to realize they are sharing the same journey.

It’s not easy to be an emerging designer in the region, through us – and now together – they’re seeing a way forward”.

With a flick of her shawl and the return of her coffee cup to the table, I get the message that my time is up. With a flurry from her team of assistants, Tania Fares moves on to her next meeting and, 36 hours later, her next city.

guest at Fashion Trust Arabia Judging

Found out more about Fashion Trust Arabia at fashiontrustarabia.com and follow them at @fashiontrustarabia Tania Fares was talking to Simon Balsom

DESIGN

Hilda Khalife at Fashion Trust Arabia

Luke Evans, Roni Helou, Salim Azzam and Shanina Shaik at Fashion Trust Arabia

Krikor Jabotian at Fashion Trust Arabia

Krikor Jabotian at Fashion Trust Arabia

Ahmed Sabry and Daki Marouf at Fashion Trust Arabia Sonam Kapoor at Fashion Trust Arabia

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MEN’S PASSION

Designing Perfection Dolce&Gabbana’s Sicily bag

The history of the Sicily bag begins in 2009, and to this day, it is the most iconic Dolce&Gabbana handbag, with its elegant lines and contemporary practicality. The name Sicily encapsulates the world of Dolce&Gabbana: history, traditions, colors, passion and femininity.

DESIGN

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MEN’S PASSION

DESIGN

Since its creation, the Sicily bag has taken many different variations, ensure a smooth effect. Finally, the color is applied twice, respecting but keeping its most identifiable detail: the characteristic top handle the required drying times. fastened to two leather covered metal cylinders.

The inside of the bag is functional, spacious, with two compartments The Sicily bag’s history is rich in styles, ornaments, art and divided by a partition and adjustable leather straps. These straps make craftsmanship, ranging from classic leather, printed canvas, needle it possible to modify the capacity of the bag through small buttons, point, crochet, Sicilian lace to luxurious versions in python and personalized with the Dolce&Gabbana logo. The two models are hand-painted crocodile. All versions of the Sicily bag are elegant, embellished with an external Dolce&Gabbana plaque, made with an structured, recognizable and continue to impress with their strong innovative system that allows for a two-tone effect. identity and femininity.

The Sicily 58 features the classic external flap, which is a key characteristic of the Sicily, as well as a back pocket. The larger model The Sicily 58 and 62, whose names refer to Domenico Dolce and is available in the following colours: black, dark grey, poppy red, Stefano Gabbana’s birth years, 1958 and 1962 respectively, are the powdery pink, deep blue sea, black-black onyx, bluebottle, orange, mahogany/mud. The smaller model is available in black, powdery evolution of the iconic Sicily bag. pink, poppy red, deep blue sea, dark emerald green, periwinkle, Fine French and Swiss leather is used for the Sicily 58 and 62, to lavender, optical white, plum and black/cuoio. which a special treatment is applied in order to guarantee a natural finish. The nappa leather lining is cut using the central part of the hide The Sicily 62 is a shopper, which features a central opening on either side of the bag. This model is also available in two different sizes. The in order to guarantee the highest quality standards. large version is available in black, poppy red, deep blue sea, blackThe bag features a raw edge construction, resulting in a smooth and black onyx, while the small version is available in black, dark grey, rounded finish. Initially, a neutral base is applied to unify the edges, powdery pink, poppy red, rose, yellow gold, Sicilian Terra/ebony, which are then brushed in order to eliminate any impurities and bordeaux/mahogany and lavender.

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LIFE REFINED Our carefully curated guide to the finest from the spheres of horology, automobiles, style, travel, design and much more. In Life Refined we look at the best, and meet the people that are making things happen.

Automot ive: E f for t le s s Ever y w her e: T he Rol l sRoyce Cu l l i n a n p 4 0 ;

Fer r a r i 8 1 2 GT S: t h e V1 2

s p id er r et u r n s p 42 ; - Fer r a r i F8 Tr ib ut o p 4 4; Por s che Tayc a n p 4 8; - Por s che o p en s fac t or y for t he a l l- ele c t r ic Tayc a n A new ch apt er i n t he comp a ny ’s h i stor y p 5 2; Wat che s : T he weig ht i s over p 5 4; Z en it h P i lot Ty p e 2 0 Ad vent u r e p 5 6; O r i s B ig C r ow n P r op i lot X C a l ibr e 1 1 5 p 5 8; St y le: T he b e st of t he s e a s on p 6 0; B ot t e g a Venet a p 6 6; P au l Sm it h p70; Conc ier ge: He a lt h t h r oug h st e a lt h p7 2; G eneva p108; F ly : Su m m it i n UA E op en s do or for mor e i nve s t m ent s i n av i at ion s e c t or p76; B a n k i ng : D r e a m Big a nd W i n Big ger p7 8 38 39

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Effortless Everywhere: The Rolls-Royce Cullinan It is incomparable and dramatically evolves the parameters of superluxury travel, translating Rolls-Royce’s ethos of ‘Effortlessness’ into physical capability, anywhere in the world. Cullinan will simply take the world in its stride.”

Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars.

AUTOMOTIVE

When Rolls-Royce announced three years ago that it would launch Cullinan, it did so in the knowledge that its customers around the world had asked it to build “The Rolls-Royce of SUVs”, with luxury, performance and usability not seen before in the SUV market. Many of these customers were younger, very successful high-net-worth individuals who are heavily engaged in the experience economy, and wanted a Rolls-Royce that would take them to the ends of the Earth in ultimate luxury.

Automotive mobility has always been a fast moving and dynamic business, with new concepts – such as SUVs – appearing with great regularity. But those new concepts need to be perfected in order to be adopted by those customers who will accept no compromise – the patrons of true luxury. Hence the Rolls-Royce Cullinan.

Cullinan at a glance Quite possibly, the most anticipated Rolls-Royce of all time.

Named after the largest diamond ever discovered which now resides in the British Crown Jewels.

An all-terrain high-bodied car that makes the idea of authentic, luxury off-road travel a reality for the first time. Luxury travel is now Effortless, Everywhere.

The first “three-box” car in the SUV-sector. Cullinan’s partition wall creates a distinct environment for passengers, separated from the luggage compartment.

The most practical of Rolls-Royces. Cullinan is the most versatile, family oriented, fun-to-drive super-luxury SUV available today.

The second new Rolls-Royce to sit on the all-new aluminium ‘Architecture of Luxury’, Cullinan is the most technologically advanced, and only purpose-built, luxury SUV in the world.

Tested to destruction all over the planet, Cullinan is an incredibly capable off-roader that sees the development of the ‘Magic Carpet Ride’ for off-road enjoyment, without sacrificing any Rolls-Royce on-road behaviour.

Cullinan offers a suite of Bespoke features developed specifically for the many various lifestyles of its owners including the Viewing Suite and the Recreation Module.

The 6.75 litre twin-turbo V12 Rolls-Royce engine delivers 563bhp/420kW and 850Nm/627lb ft of torque to the all-new all-wheel drive, all-wheel steer system needed to overcome any challenge.

A century-long pedigree of adventurous quests and campaigns successfully carried out across all terrains thanks to the luxury offered by a stout vehicle that

Contemporary and functional design ensures Cullinan gains iconic status in the face of increasingly bland SUV designs.

was swift, stealthy and dependable. “A Rolls in the desert is above rubies” – T.E. Lawrence.

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Ferrari 812 GTS: the V12 spider returns And with 800 cv, it’s the most powerful production convertible on the market

Exactly 50 years on from the debut of the last spider in the Ferrari range to sport a front-mounted V12, the 812 GTS hails a triumphant return for a model type that has played a pivotal role in the marque’s history since its foundation.

AUTOMOTIVE

The Ferrari V12 spider story features many iconic models and began in 1948 with the 166 MM, an authentic thoroughbred competition GT that won the two most prestigious endurance races in the world in 1949: the Mille Miglia and the 24 Hours of Le Mans.

The last in that long lineage was the 1969 365 GTS4, also known as the Daytona Spider because of Ferrari’s legendary victory in the 1967 24 Hours of Daytona when two works 330 P4s and the NART-entered 412 P took the chequered flag side-by-side to occupy the top three places.

The front-mounted V12 architecture has not been used in a Ferrari series-production spider since the 365 GTS4. That said, four special series limited editions have been launched: the 550 Barchetta Pininfarina in 2000, the Superamerica in 2005, the SA Aperta in 2010 and,

most recently, the F60 America of which just 10 were built to celebrate Ferrari’s 60th year on the American market in 2014.

Like its historic predecessors, the 812 GTS sets a new benchmark in terms of performance and exclusivity. Sporting Ferrari’s majestic 800 cv V12, it is not merely the most powerful production spider on the market, but also the most versatile, thanks to its retractable hard top, a unique feature in this segment which also guarantees a larger boot capacity.

The retractable hard top (RHT), which opens in just 14 seconds at speeds of up to 45 km/h, does not impinge upon the interior dimensions, thus maintaining the donor car’s roomy cockpit. The electric rear screen, which acts as a wind-stop, makes the car truly useable with the top down while, with the top up, it can be left open to allow occupants to continue to luxuriate in the naturally-aspirated V12’s unique soundtrack.

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Ferrari F8 Tributo Live for the moment

An invitation to drive Ferrari’s sublime F8 Tributo on the roads around Maranello, and on track at Fiorano. It’s the dream ‘Save The Date’, right?

Not wishing to brag, but we’ve kind of grown somewhat accustomed to driving Ferraris. Not long ago it was their Portofino. Before that, the 812Superfast. Earlier still, the GTC4Lusso. Thoroughbred Italians all, and each the perfect expression of Maranello’s desire to satiate the automotive desire of some very demanding segments of the automotive buying public. Yet, the thought of sliding behind the wheel of the new F8 got our pulse racing in wholly elevated way!

AUTOMOTIVE

The twin-turbo V8 is the heart and soul of the F8 Tributo The latest in Ferrari’s illustrious series of V8 sports cars – a line that stretches back to 1975’s 308GTB and takes in six others until it reached the 488GTB in 2015 – the F8 Tributo has at its heart the thrilling performance of the best engine of the past 20 years.

These are not Ferrari’s words, neither are they our own journalistic hyperbole, instead they are a title conferred through its award as ‘International Engine of The Year’ time and time again.

Who is this car for? First and foremost – driving enthusiasts, and

Not ones to rest on their laurels, Maranello’s engineers took this highly praised motor, and made it even better. The F8 Tributo is, quite literally, a tribute to all (in particular the most recent of) Ferrari V8s. (Ferrari, 8-cyclinder, Tribute – get it?)

Yet, there is undeniably comfort – for both driver and passenger.

those who appreciate engine performance and great design. Ferrari predict this car will be mainly used as a second car – for weekends away or during free time. For sure, it doesn’t have the distancemunching comfort of the Superfast or GTC4Lusso – but it’s not intended to. This F8 is a close cousin of the Pista – and you know how radical that is!

The F8 cabin is, surprisingly, really rather capacious, and has the highest level of comfort for a mid-rear-engined Ferrari.

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The ‘glued to the road’ feel inspires confidence and allows the driver to better exploit the car’s vast capability Propelled by the most powerful V8 in Ferrari history – the 3.9 liter turbocharged F154 delivers 720 cv at 8,000rpm giving it a rather amgical 185 cv per liter – the highest specific power of any internally combusted Ferrari. Also, and we can now attest to this ourselves, it is delivered with no turbo lag. Not ‘nearly no turbo lag’, nor ‘reduced turbo lag’, but, actually, zero turbo lag. You will not know you’re driving a turbo. Fact.

Add to this (or, rather, subtract) a 10% drop in aerodynamic drag over the previous 488GTB, and you’ve got the recipe for one hot car.

Drivability is enhanced – another reduction, this time of 40kg vs the 488GTB – goes a long way to contributing to this. As does the new Sideslip Control 6.1 with Ferrari Dynamic Enhancer. What’s the deal here? You’ll find out through its delivery of more confidence

on the limit. A steering wheel of reduced diameter adds to precision of placement on the road.

Aesthetically, the F8 is a genuine Ferrari Berlinetta. A new clean and essential front design integrates efficient aerodynamic solutions, and a powerful rear design recalls legendary V8 Ferrari sports cars of the past – there’s even a nod to the F40 in this new car’s lightweight rear and louvered screen.

Performance figures are spot on – 100kmh is reached in a mind-bending 2.9 seconds, and 200 in just 7.8. That’s a full half second quicker than the hardly-aged 488GTB! Take your first close-up look at the F8 Tributo, then check back next month for our full drive review.

AUTOMOTIVE

A Ferrari must marry beauty with functionality. It must work both scientifically and artistically.

The F8 Tributo uses an improved version of Ferrari’s magnificent V8, an engine derived from motor sport

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Porsche Taycan: The sports car, sustainably redesigned

World premiere held simultaneously on three continents Porsche presented its first fully-electric sports car to the public on September 4, with a spectacular world premiere held simultaneously on three continents. We made it to one – the European premiere, outside Berlin, Germany.

Andreas Haffner, Lutz Meschke, Albrecht Reimold, Uwe-Karsten Städter, Manfred Harrer, Oliver Blume, and Michael Mauer with the Taycan Turbo S World Premiere in Europe

The Premiere

Neuhardenberg near Berlin representing solar power and a wind farm on Ping-tan Island, around 150 kilometres from the Chinese city of Fuzhou

The Porsche Taycan’s world premiere took place simultaneously in

in the province of Fujian representing wind power.

North America (9am local time), China (9pm local time) and Europe (3pm local time). Why? The most important sales markets of the new

“The Taycan links our heritage to the future. It carries forward the success

electric sports car are on these three continents. The event locations

story of our brand – a brand that has fascinated and thrilled people the

were also a synonym for three ways of sustainable energy management:

world over for more than 70 years,” said Oliver Blume, Chairman of

Niagara Falls at the border between the US state of New York and the

the Executive Board of Porsche AG, who opened the world premiere in

Canadian province of Ontario representing hydro-power, a solar farm in

Berlin: “This day marks the start of a new era.”

AUTOMOTIVE

are among the most powerful production models that the sports car manufacturer currently has in its product range. Less powerful variants of these all-wheel drive vehicles will follow this year. The first derivative to be added will be the Taycan Cross Turismo at the end of next year.

By 2022, Porsche will have invested more than six billion euros in electromobility.

Performance meets efficiency The flagship Turbo S version of the Taycan can generate up to 560 kW (761 PS) over-boost power in combination with Launch Control, and the Taycan Turbo up to 500 kW (680 PS). The Taycan Turbo S accelerates from zero to 100 km/h in 2.8 seconds, while the Taycan Turbo completes this sprint in 3.2 seconds. The Turbo S has a range of up to 412 kilometres, and the Turbo a range of up to 450 kilometres (according to WLTP in each case). The top speed of both all-wheel-drive models is 260 km/h.

Taycan The four-door sports saloon is a unique package, offering typical Porsche performance and connectivity with everyday usability. At the same time, highly advanced production methods and the features of the Taycan are setting new standards in the fields of sustainability and digitalisation.

“We promised a true Porsche for the age of electromobility – a fascinating sports car that not only excites in terms of its technology and driving dynamics, but also sparks a passion in people all over the world, just like its legendary predecessors have done. Now we are delivering on this promise,” emphasises Michael Steiner, Member of the Executive Board of Porsche AG – Research and Development.

The first models in the new series are the Taycan Turbo S and Taycan Turbo. They are at the cutting edge of Porsche E-Performance and

The Taycan is the first production vehicle with a system voltage of 800 volts instead of the usual 400 volts for electric cars. This is a particular advantage for Taycan drivers on the road: in just over five minutes, the battery can be recharged using direct cur-rent (DC) from the high-power charging network for a range of up to 100 kilometres (according to WLTP). The charging time for five to 80 percent SoC (state of charge) is 22.5 minutes for charging under ideal conditions, and the maximum charging power (peak) is 270 kW. The overall capacity of the Performance Battery Plus is 93.4 kWh. Taycan drivers can comfortably charge their cars with up to eleven kW of alternating current (AC) at home.

Pure exterior design with Porsche DNA With its clean, purist-design, the Taycan signals the beginning of a new era. At the same time, it retains the unmistakable Porsche design DNA. From the front it looks particularly wide and flat with highly contoured wings. The silhouette is shaped by the sporty roofline sloping downward to the rear. The highly sculpted side sections are also characteristic. The sleek cabin, the drawn-in rear C-pillar and the pronounced shoulders of the wings result in a sharply emphasised rear, typical of the brand. There are also innovative elements such as the glass-effect Porsche logo, which has been integrated into the light bar at the rear. With a Cd value from 0.22, the aerodynamically optimised basic shape makes a significant

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contribution to low energy consumption and thus long range.

Unique interior design with a wide display screen band The cockpit signals the start of a new era with its clear structure and a completely new architecture. The freestanding, curved instrument cluster forms the highest point on the dashboard. This places a clear focus on the driver axis. A central, 10.9-inch infotainment display and an optional passenger display are combined to form an integrated glass band in a black-panel look. All user interfaces

have been completely newly de-signed for the Taycan. The number of classic hardware controls such as switches and buttons has been greatly reduced. Instead, control is intelligent and intuitive – using touch operation or the voice control function, which responds to the command “Hey Porsche”.

With the Taycan, Porsche offers an entirely leather-free interior for the first time. Interiors made from innovative recycled materials underscore the sustainable concept of the electric sports car. “Foot

AUTOMOTIVE

garages” – recesses in the battery in the rear footwell – ensure sitting comfort in the rear and allow the low vehicle height typical of sports cars. Two luggage compartments are available: the front compartment has a capacity of 81 litres and the rear 366 litres.

Innovative drive motors and a two-speed transmission The Taycan Turbo S and Taycan Turbo have two exceptionally efficient electric ma-chines, one on the front axle and one on the rear axle, thus making the cars all-wheel drive. Both the range and the continuous power of the drive benefit from the high efficiency of the permanently excited synchronous machines. The electric machine, trans-mission and pulse-controlled inverter are each combined into a compact drive module. The modules have the highest power density (kW per litre of package space) of all electric powertrains on the market today. A special feature of the electric motors is the “hairpin” winding of the stator coils. This technology makes it possible to incorporate more copper in the stator, increasing power output and torque while maintaining the same component volume. The two-speed transmission installed on the rear axle is an innovation developed by Porsche. First gear gives the Taycan even more acceleration from a standing start, while second gear with a long gear ratio ensures high efficiency and equally high-power reserves. This also applies at very high speeds.

Centrally networked chassis systems Porsche uses a centrally networked control system for the Taycan chassis. The integrated Porsche 4D Chassis Control analyses and synchronises all chassis systems in real time. The innovative chassis systems include adaptive air suspension with threechamber technology including PASM (Porsche Active Suspension Management) electronic damper control, as well as the Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control Sport (PDCC Sport) electromechanical roll stabilisation system including Porsche Torque Vectoring Plus (PTV Plus). The all-wheel drive control with two electric motors and the recuperation system are unique. At up to 265 kW, the potential recuperation power is significantly higher than that of competitors.

Driving tests have shown that approximately 90 percent of everyday braking is performed by the electric machines alone – without the hydraulic wheel brakes being activated.

The profile of the different driving modes basically follows the same philosophy as in other Porsche model series. This is supplemented by special settings which enable optimum use of the purely electric drive. Four driving modes are available: “Range”, “Normal”, “Sport” and “Sport Plus”. In addition, individual systems can be configured as required in the “Individual” mode.

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Porsche opens factory for the all-electric Taycan A new chapter in the company’s history After a construction period of less than 48 months, Porsche officially opened the new production facility for its first all-electric sports car at its Zuffenhausen site, commencing the next chapter in the company’s history. “The zero-emissions Taycan is a new Porsche icon,” says Oliver Blume, Chairman of the Executive Board of Porsche AG. “It is different to our previous vehicles, yet is still a typical Porsche – innovative, sporty and emotive.”

AUTOMOTIVE

He added: “We have a level of responsibility for the environment and society. Production of the Taycan is carbon-neutral. Heritage meets the future at our parent plant in Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen, which is the heart of the brand.”

The positive response to the motor show presentation of the Mission E concept car in September 2015 marked the start of the largest construction project since the Zuffenhausen plant was first established. Less than 48 months later production of the first Taycan customer vehicle started.

The new production facility sets new standards in terms of energy efficiency and environmental friendliness. Assembly takes place in a “factory of the future” – flexible, networked and using 4.0 production technology.

It is a further step towards the “Zero Impact Factory” with no negative environmental impact: production of the Porsche Taycan with zeroemission powertrain at the Zuffenhausen site will be carbon-neutral. In addition to using electricity from renewable sources and biogas to generate heat, the new production buildings are designed to be extremely energyefficient. Further examples are the electrically powered logistics vehicles, the use of waste heat in the paint shop, the greening of roof areas and a continuous and holistic approach to other potential resource savings.

The Taycan heralds a new era in automotive production. Production is networked and flexible. Porsche uses automated guided vehicle systems instead of traditional conveyor belts to transport components and vehicles from station to station.

Production of the Porsche Taycan will see 1,500 new jobs created at the Zuffenhausen site, demonstrating that electromobility is generating employment at Porsche.

In total, the company is set to invest more than six billion euros in electromobility by 2022. The company has invested a total of 700 million euros in the new production facilities alone.

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The weight is over Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

In sport, every athlete looks for the advantage that will raise their game.

This is the same approach that OMEGA has taken to the new Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”. As the name suggests, this ingenious sports watch is designed for less weight and more comfort during play. To achieve that goal, every feature has been creatively rethought, resulting in a new edge of watchmaking innovation.

WATCHES

In sport, every athlete looks for the advantage that will raise their game. This is the same approach that OMEGA has taken to the new Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”. As the name suggests, this ingenious sports watch is designed for less weight and more comfort during play. To achieve that goal, every feature has been creatively rethought, resulting in a new edge of watchmaking innovation.

A push-in crown for comfort Another first for OMEGA is the telescopic crown, which can be stowed inside the case when not in use. This ergonomic feature means there is no disturbance to the movement of an athlete’s hands while playing their game.

Developed with OMEGA’s own leading athlete Behind the development of OMEGA’s latest Master Chronometer was one of golf’s major talents: Rory McIlroy. The OMEGA ambassador helped the product development team to create a watch perfectly suited to the needs of athletes.

Red, green or blue Each “Ultra Light” is presented on a rubber strap, and also comes with an in-play fabric strap for perfect comfort when required.

Designed for preventing glare from the sun, OMEGA’s matt finished Aqua Terra makes bold use of colour on the aluminium seconds hand, Seamaster logo, quarter hour indexes and strap stitching.

“I’m proud to have played a role in the development of OMEGA’s new lightweight sports watch. I know what an athlete needs in a watch and through collaboration with OMEGA we were able to modify the timepiece. The new “Ultra Light” is an absolute pleasure to wear, whatever sport you play.” - Rory McIlroy, OMEGA golf ambassador Light yet tough When presented on its sporty fabric strap, the ergonomic “Ultra Light” weighs just 55g. The case, caseback and crown are fashioned from an alloy called Gamma Titanium – a first for OMEGA. The unique material, used in the aeronautical industry due to its very resistant properties, is harder and lighter than conventional titanium. Thanks to careful research and trial, OMEGA also reduced the amount of material used to create the dial. This process further lightened the weight of the watch without affecting its visual impact.

Three colour choices are available: red, green or blue.

Master Chronometer Power Shedding the weight did not reduce the watch’s precision or performance. In fact, the timepiece comes with OMEGA’s full 5-year warranty. On the inside, the “Ultra Light” is driven by OMEGA’s first-ever titanium movement. All the bridges and the main plate are in ceramised titanium, which means there’s less friction between the components and it gives the movement this special dark grey colour. Calibre 8928 Titanium is a manual-winding calibre with CoAxial escapement. As a certified Master Chronometer approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the Calibre 8928 Titanium is resistant to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Much like OMEGA’s sporting ambassadors, it has proven its worth under the toughest conditions.

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Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure Urban outlook, unparalleled versatility

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure combines a wholly urban outlook with unparalleled versatility. Expressing reliability, comfort and robustness, the Pilot Type 20 Adventure also comes in a chronograph version, the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure. Guaranteeing trademark Pilot easy readability for adrenalined-up thrill-seekers and city slickers alike, along with two fully-interchangeable strap options, these additions to the Zenith Pilot line are set to be a high-energy hit for every occasion.

WATCHES

A natural heir to the onboard instruments developed by Zenith in the early years of aeronautics, the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure is powered by an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Not to be outdone, the Pilot Type 20 Adventure is equipped with an automatic Zenith Elite 679 calibre, ensuring total reliability and a 50-hour power reserve designed to outlast the most tenacious ambush.

Featuring the wide easily adjustable ratcheted crown of the original aviation instruments that inspired these must-have pieces of 21st century kit, both Pilot Type 20 Adventure have 45mm cases

in bronze. While titanium casebacks bear the ZENITH Flying Instruments logo in a final salute to the pioneering spirit of their role models, the very latest in urban must-haves is issued with grained khaki green dials packing oversized Arabic numerals entirely made of Super-LumiNovaÂŽ.

Making the Pilot Type 20 Adventurer the ultimate accessory if you’re into where the action is, these high-flying timepieces come in a choice of camouflage alligator leather or suave khaki matrix calfskin leather straps, both with protective rubber lining and a titanium pin buckle.

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Oris Big Crown Propilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s latest is a contemporary masterpiece and a symbol of the independent Swiss company’s watchmaking vision.

The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 lays bare Oris’s historic watchmaking roots. But at the same time, it propels the independent company forward. It’s pure Oris – as nature intended.

It’s inspired by nature, particularly by the Waldenburg Valley, which surrounds the village of Hölstein, where Oris has been based since it was founded in 1904. It’s a reflection of contemporary culture, too, and of our growing desire for authentic experiences. And it’s a watch that explains Oris’s true personality.

WATCHES

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The best of the season Milan Street Style

The women have been hogging the style headlines recently.

With fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris, they’ve been strutting the catwalks and parading the boulevards.

So, here’s a timely reminder that we men are more than able to rock our own great looks!

Who’s your winner in the style stakes for this season?

Lady Peahen, or Mr. Peacock?

Style preview

STYLE

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STYLE

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STYLE

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Bottega Veneta Spring 2020 - men’s and women’s

“Spring 2020 evolves the codes we are building at Bottega Veneta. Our focus is on process and clarity; immediate and direct.” Daniel Lee, Creative Director.

STYLE

This collection plays with proportion, soft structure cutting through tension and technique with a clean new ease. The balance of colour is calm, bold, rich and defined in black, chocolate brown, gold, tapioca, orange and tones of blue.

Jewellery disrupts the silhouette, weaving through tactile surfaces.

Classicism contrasts modernism with refined techniques: knot, weave and knit.

Materials feature in their purest form: Wood, gold, lacquer, stone, leather, cotton and the body.

Accessories resonate with the attitude of beauty and comfort.

Uncompromising and unstructured, contrasts are essential. Collage, texture and nuance; each a continuous extension of each other.

Bottega Veneta embodies warmth, desire, joy and celebration. An elevated reality to live in.

“Bottega Veneta is about the individual, it’s for you.” Daniel Lee, Creative Director.

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STYLE

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Paul Smith Paris Fashion Week

With a spirit of self-expression, Paul Smith Autumn/Winter ’19 confidently clashes codes that are deep-rooted in the fabric of modern Britain.

STYLE

In the late Sixties a keenly resourceful young Paul Smith would charm expert tailors in his hometown of Nottingham into deviating from their norms, cutting him one-of-a-kind clothes in unfamiliar fabrics. A pair of curtains would be transformed into a handmade two-piece suit and floral dress fabrics would become dandyish shirts. Nodding to this notion of self-expression, throughout the Autumn/Winter ’19 collection the restraint of traditional British sartorial codes is loosened but with consistently elevated construction.

An unfussy and gently dishevelled British elegance prevails with familiar styles recut and refabricated to suit modern needs. A 1930’s British riding jacket in thick cavalry twill provided early inspiration for the collection, its interpretation typical of the twisted classics Paul Smith is famed for. The proportions of the jacket are exaggerated and the construction is modernised, what would’ve once been an 18oz British wool is substituted with a lighter weight Italian cotton and wool cloth and jackets are finished with a floating canvas to allow for complete manoeuvrability.

The horseplay continues when the riding-inspired pieces are paired with flight trousers and biker boots. Punk nuances are inspired by more ‘do-it-yourself’, this time from Paul’s wife, Pauline. In the Seventies, Pauline a trained couturier would be called upon to customise her teenage children’s clothing with zips or dying army surplus in a cooking pot.

Old meets new whenTatersall checks–which first appeared on 18th century horse blankets and later in flannel shirting–are recoloured and find their way onto nylon outerwear and women’s tailoring.

Prints see posh and punk collide as painterly florals merge with cut and paste graphics and animal prints.

Music highlights the best of modern and diverse Britain.Young artists including London-born post-R&B soloist Tirzah and Scottish disco quartet Amor fill the soundtrack.The Autumn/ Winter ’19 collection is a celebration of the individuality and independence that’s proudly been at the heart of Paul Smith since those early days of resourcefulness and self-expression.

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Health through stealth SHA Wellness Clinic

When the time comes to reset yourself, what are your choices? The global spa scene offers an array of one-stop-shop solutions. You could go total bootcamp and sweat it all out in Utah, or plump for the superluxe pampering of a Swiss clinic. Alternatively, there’s nothing quite so dramatic as the full medical inventions favored by some. However, for an all-round, holistic, and also soothingly comforting reset, there’s nowhere quite as good as SHA Wellness Clinic. Our Zeina Mokaddam packed her valise and jetted across to Spain’s east coast to sample its healthy delights.

CONCIERGE

Set on a hillside in Alicante, with a great view of the Med, SHA Wellness Clinic combines Far East-inspired therapies with the latest western advances – plus a huge portion of luxe living.

How are you going to get healthy? Is it all pain if you’re going to gain? Not at all. A fusion of eastern knowledge, specific therapies, and specialized diets will see you right.

Guests at this medical spa can enjoy a combination of macrobiotic diets, massages and treatments to balance body and soul. And physical activities, informal lectures, cooking classes and therapies are conducted in beautifully calm and peaceful surroundings to maximise their impact and long-lasting benefits.

What is the SHA Method?

Lifestyle and nutrition (together with genetics), condition our health and well-being. The SHA Method integrates the most effective natural therapies with highly therapeutic nutrition, without neglecting the latest advances in Western medicine, especially in preventive medicine, genetics and anti-aging. The coordinated and supervised fusion of these therapies significantly enhances the positive impact that these therapies would have on an individual basis.

SHA Diets The way you’ll eat at SHA is one of the most important aspects of your stay. SHA offers three different types of healthy eating menus (SHA, Biolight and Kushi) in order to meet guests’ needs and goals.

These menus are different every day at lunch and dinner. With the help of their expert consultants in healthy nutrition, they are adapted to suit each guests’ particular needs.

And, contrary to common spa practises, it isn’t as severe as you might imagine – but this doesn’t make it any less effective!

The Kushi Diet is SHA’s strictest and most restrictive gastronomic diet. It is recommended for those who aim to control their weight or intensively detoxify their body, being a perfect complement to a weight loss program. It has smaller portions and also does not include certain healthy ingredients including oil, baked flour, nuts, pasta or oats. A little salt is also added. Fish is only included once a week and the diet is characterized for including a lot of algae and hearty soups like miso that help cleanse the body and provide energy and vitality.

Could you live on that? Of course you could and, trust me, your body will thank you!

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CONCIERGE

SHA Health Programs SHA’s is certainly not a one-size-fits-all approach. The first thing you’ll do here is answer a long list of very detailed (and personal) questions. Revolving around your lifestyle, your habits and your goals, SHA’s clinicians will use your answers to tailor a specific program of fitness and nutrition for you. So… be truthful with you answers – it’ll pay out with health dividends in the end!

Programs can be specific. You want fitness? Detox? Weight loss?

You’ve got them all… plus intensive version of each! Want to give up smoking, learn to age better (who doesn’t!), or manage stress – SHA will set you on the right path.

What does this mean? It means that SHA’s aim is to truly reset your life – not just deliver a short-term fix. For sure, you’ll leave SHA more aware of your body – and mind – and more respectful of both of their limitations and underuse.

What to do Open your mind to yoga, meditation, fitness, eastern therapies, and even try their healthy-cooking sessions for yourself! SHA now has 11 adjoining villas - ideal for guests who don’t want to leave their family behind during a life-changing stay! And, don’t worry about not being pampered throughout it all – where every the most luxurious 5-star hotel has a staff to guest ratio on 1 to 1, SHA (even during its peak times) boasts a ratio of 3 staff to every 1 guest. Who’s going to beat that? And yet, when the time comes to be left alone to reflect and relax, SHA’s staff know just how to make themselves invisible.

SHA Wellness Clinic - a perfect balance of occidental and oriental wellness – with wisdom, sunshine, sea views, and luxury thrown in for good measure!

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Summit in UAE opens door for more investments in aviation sector Top 5 reasons to attend GIAS 2020 in Dubai

Do you know the global air transport demand will more than double by 2038? Do you know the global air transport will need 10,550 new aircraft by 2038? These forecasts will create an unprecedented stimulus to call for more pragmatic approach to introduce more fund in the aviation sector to build the expected capacity.

FLY

These positive expectations underscore the importance of GIAS (Global Investment in Aviation Summit), the unique genuine market place for investment in aviation sector, slated to be held in Dubai on January 27-29, 2020.

us. Within UAE only, a whopping $23billion worth airport development projects are in progress, enabling the UAE airports to handle more than 300 million passengers every year. This offers huge investment opportunities for investors across the world.

Making greater strides in aviation industry, GIAS showcases to the World sustainable and profitable investment opportunities. We are expecting more than 200 investors for the second edition themed ‘Enable Global Aviation Growth through Fundraising and Key Partnership’.

3. GIAS 2020 presents a socioeconomic sustainable civil aviation system where participants will get to grips with ways to make profit in aircraft industry; how to get financial support for airport development; legal formalities to buy and operate an aircraft, and much more. Participants can benefit from the exceptional quality and professionalism our speakers and project pitchers will be executing.

Here are the 5 top reasons to attend GIAS 1. GIAS is an ideal and unique opportunity for aviation professionals and investors to network and grow their business. Over $150 million indirect investment have been committed during the first edition of GIAS, which attracted 872 high-profile delegates and 60 countries, including United States, United Kingdom, France, Germany, India, Saudi Arabia and Egypt. The success resides in the quality of the discussion and agreement achieved making GIAS a must-attend event.

2. GIAS 2020 edition is estimated to have a value of $300 billion in aviation investment projects with 1,000+ delegates anticipated to take part in it, from all over the world. Several countries and business opportunities providers have already embarked with

4. The three-day event will feature Intelak Incubator, a unique platform for aviation startups, where aspiring professionals can gain from workshops and mentorship programmes. The last day of GIAS is dedicated for startups to present their ideas before a credible team of investors. If a project need funds, GIAS is all ears to boost your project within the most soaring and prominent incubator hub that the world offers.

5. GIAS offers an exclusive opportunity for the participating investors to tour the UAE, which will help them to get a first-hand knowledge of the ongoing projects in UAE. Many other features will be launched too.

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Dream Big and Win Bigger with Al Danah’s Millionaire Prize

Deposit more into your Gulf Bank Al Danah account and increase your chances of becoming the millionaire you’ve always dreamed of

BANKING

Do you dream of becoming a millionaire? When you have an Al Danah account at Gulf Bank, your dreams are always that much closer to becoming a reality! With only a few months left until the annual announcement of the Al Danah Millionaire, you still have plenty of time to deposit more into your Al Danah account and increase your chances of becoming the millionaire you have always dreamed of. Don’t have an Al Danah account yet? Don’t worry — it is never too late to open an account and start winning on a weekly, monthly, and annual basis.

Being the only bank that offers a yearly prize of 1 million Kuwaiti Dinars to its’ Al Danah account holders, Gulf Bank is proud to live up to its’ promise of making millionaires, for the 11th year in a row. This year’s annual Al Danah account draw will take place on January 16, 2020 and will culminate in the announcement of the 2019 Al Danah Millionaire, who will receive the grand prize of one million Kuwaiti Dinars in one full payment. The Al Danah draws are always approved by, and held in the presence of, a representative from the Ministry of Commerce.

Al Danah chances are added on a daily basis, so the more you save and the longer you save for, the higher your chances are of winning! In addition to the KD1,000,000 annual prize, the Al Danah account also offers account holders quarterly prizes of up to KD500,000 in addition to weekly prizes of KD1,000 each for five winners. Al Danah is also the only account that rewards you for your loyalty, with your accumulated chances from previous years rolling over to next year’s draws.

Gulf Bank’s Al Danah account is open to both Kuwaiti and non-Kuwaiti residents of Kuwait. A minimum of KD 200 is required to open an account and the same amount must be maintained for customers to

be eligible for the upcoming Al Danah draws. If the Al Danah account balance falls below KD 200 at any given time, a KD 2 fee will be charged to the account monthly until the minimum balance is met. Customers who open an account and/or deposit more will enter the daily draw within two days. To participate in this year’s quarterly and annual draws, customers must keep the balance required by the Al Danah account. Terms and conditions apply.

To deposit into an Al Danah account, you can visit any one of Gulf Bank’s ATMs or ITMs, as well as any of the 58 Gulf Bank branches around the country. You also have the option to deposit through Gulf Bank’s online and mobile banking services, including Selfpay, or by creating a free standing order from other Gulf Bank accounts. Al Danah also offers several unique services to its clients, including the Al Danah Deposit Only ATM card, which allows account holders to deposit money into their accounts at their convenience. Account holders can also calculate their daily, weekly and yearly chances of winning the draws through the ‘Al Danah Chances’ calculator available on the Gulf Bank website and app.

You can also be notified via a free SMS alert with every transaction, a feature all Al Danah account holders can activate by visiting their nearest branch.

To learn more about Gulf Bank’s Al Danah account, customers can visit one of Gulf Bank’s 58 branches or log on to the dedicated Al Danah website www.egulfbank.com/aldanahwinners to learn more about the account and its winners. Customers can also contact the Customer Contact Center on 1805805 or place queries through the WhatsApp service on 65805805. In addition, customers can stay up-to-date with Gulf Bank via its various social media channels.

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Gastronomic Michelin Star Experience Check in at Velaa Private Island This November

Known as one of the most luxurious destinations in the world, Velaa Private Island invites guests to enjoy an exclusive four-hands dining experience featuring international Michelin-starred chefs.

Throughout November, each guest Chef will collaborate with the island’s Executive Chef Gaushan De Silva on a gastronomic menu presenting the best of their cuisine.

The visiting chefs include Denmark-based Brian Mark Hansen, Netherlands-based Alain Alders and German-based Tristan Brandt and boast 5 Michelin Stars between them, promising a real treat for diners at Aragu.

The exclusive collaborations are set to provide a combination of each chef’s culinary techniques, signature dishes and respective cultures. The four-hands concept originated in Spain and has become increasingly popular across the world, with diners being treated to a single multi-course gastronomic journey, crafted by both Chefs in collaboration.

Guests at Velaa Private Island can pamper themselves with a world-class cuisine at three different restaurants – or in the comfort of their own villas and residences – which are under the consultancy of Michelin-star trained Executive Chef Gaushan de Silva. The restaurants include Tavaru, Athiri and Aragu restaurant.

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Trending on passionsarabia.com

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What’s trending at the home of Men’s Passion online

look at the hottest stories from the past month on Men’s Passion’s online home at passionsarabia.com. Follow us on Instagram @passions.arabia for a regular dose of the styles, the trends, the brands, the maisons and the marques... with stories of the passionate people who are making it happen.

BeEmpowered, BeDamas: Damas CEO Asil Attar raises the region’s gold standard With an impressive heritage stretching back more than 110 years, leading luxury brand Damas has put a whole new spring in its step as it raises the stakes for the Middle East’s other gold and jewelry brands through the launch of 25 new store openings and renovations. This comes just six months after the company placed Asil Attar at its helm – making her the first female CEO in the history of Damas. passionsarabia.com/beempowered-bedamas-damas-ceo-asil-attar-raises-thegold-standard

@tag.local – Regional men’s life and style instagramers worth a follow!

Looking for some local inspiration? We’ve got our own fine crop of Instagramers and influencers in the region. Here’s our top ten. passionsarabia.com/tag-local-regional-mens-life-and-style-instagrammers-wortha-follow

@tag.local – Kuwait’s women’s life and style instagramers to follow!

We spend a lot of time – if we’re honest, probably too much time – combing through local, regional, and global Instagram feeds looking for inspiration and, well, just generally being curious. Want to know our ten favorite local feeds?

Read on… passionsarabia.com/kuwait-womens-life-and-style-instagramers

PASSIONS ARABIA

Porsche Taycan: the sports car… sustainably redesigned In a game-changing event, Porsche presented its first fully-electric sports car today with a spectacular world premiere held simultaneously on three continents.

The four-door sports saloon is a unique package, offering typical Porsche performance and connectivity with everyday usability. At the same time, highly advanced production methods and the features of the Taycan are setting new standards in the fields of sustainability and digitalisation. passionsarabia.com/porsche-taycan-the-sports-car-sustainably-redesigned

VIDEO: Damas – City of Gold Damas jewellery, the leading luxury brand and retailer in the GCC, born in 1907, revealed the “City of Gold” marketing campaign, lighting up the Burj Khalifa with a breath-taking 3-minute Arabian sea and treasure themed underwater extravaganza. passionsarabia.com/damas-city-of-gold

The Longines Heritage Military – Kuwait Limited Edition Longines presents a bronze version of The Longines Heritage Military, especially designed for Kuwait. Inspired by a military model from the 1940’s, The Longines Heritage Military – Kuwait Limited Edition is numbered and limited to 100 pieces. passionsarabia.com/the-longines-heritage-military-kuwait-limited-edition

Kuzmoz and the Great Ethical Cleanse: Chapter 2 I don’t claim perfection, in fact, I don’t believe it to be a sustainable long-term goal.

So, if I’m going to attempt anything, I’m going to try and be better; a better daughter, a better sister, a better friend, a better citizen… a better human. Writes Xeina Almusallam aka @kuzmoz passionsarabia.com/kuzmoz-and-the-great-ethical-cleanse-chapter-2

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Universo Ferrari at Fiorano A unique opportunity for customers and fans to discover the Maranello marque Universo Ferrari opened its doors for a limited period last month, and our Zeina Mokaddam was one of the first to pass through them! This is the first exhibition dedicated to the world of Ferrari in the brand’s historic location with a series of exclusive tours being held throughout the month of September.

A long-awaited event for customers, fans and Ferrari enthusiasts alike, the exhibition took place on the Fiorano race circuit, in a large structure where the various activities that render Ferrari so unique are represented in all their glory.

An unprecedented exhibition itinerary offered visitors a fully immersive experience, enabling them to gain a close-up of a legend and universal symbol that is amongst the strongest brands in the world.

EVENTS

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Launch of Ibtkar’s Women: Dialogue and Leadership program The Ibtkar’s Women: Leadership and Dialogue program was formally launched at an event hosted by the German Embassy. Ambassador Designate Stefan Möbs shared insights on current affairs in Germany and Ruth Brodesser, Head of Cultural Affairs shared information on Germany for our participants.

Oliver Oehms, CEO of AHK German Industry and the German Business Council in Kuwait spoke on the German economy and enterpeneurship. Dr Fabian Blomberg from the Konrad Audenauer Foundation gave a brief introduction to the institute and an overview of the upcoming trip highlights.

Ibtkar’s Director Dr Alanoud Alsharekh congratulated the 10 participants on being chosen for this competitive program, which had over 110 applicants, and hoped that this initiative will bring closer understanding of the importance of women’s leadership in Kuwait.

The event was attended by Mr. Khalifa al Ghanim, CEO of Fouad al Ghanim and Sons Automotive company, whose kind support made this program possible.

EVENTS

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Ali Alghanim & Sons becomes the Authorized Distributor of Geely Auto in Kuwait Ali Alghanim & Sons Automotive Co., one of Kuwait’s leading importers of luxury vehicles, has signed an agreement with Chinese automotive giant Geely Auto Group to become the authorized distributor for Geely Auto range of passenger vehicles in Kuwait.

The agreement was signed between Eng. Fahad Ali Alghanim - Managing Director of Ali Alghanim & Sons Automotive Co., and Mr. Xue Tao - Assistant General Manager of Geely Auto International Company, at a signing ceremony conducted at the Ali Alghanim & Sons Automotive Showroom in the Shuwaikh area of Kuwait.

Speaking at the signing ceremony, Eng. Fahad Alghanim said: “Geely Auto is China’s largest and fastest-growing automotive brands, with an impressive range of vehicles in their portfolio and strong technological expertise founded on decades of investment in global research and development. This makes Geely Auto brand the perfect addition to the Ali Alghanim & Sons portfolio of high-quality automotive products, and this partnership will enable us to establish a strong customer base for the brand in Kuwait.”

BUILD YOUR LEGACY WITH THE BEST MENTORSHIP PROGRAM IN THE MIDDLE EAST

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Panasonic Tower, 25th Floor, Fahad Al Salem Street, Qibla, Kuwait City, Kuwait 88 89

LISTINGS

OUR CURATED HIGHLIGHT OF WHAT’S ON IN THE REGION DURING SEPTEMBER We’re rolling back the years with this month’s top picks!

The Ruins JACC, Kuwait 23 – 25 October An operatic concert celebrating the legend Umm Kulthum as never seen before. The concert presents three of Umm Kulthum’s most famous songs: Amal Hayati, Ana Fi’Intezarak and Al Atlal, performed

by May Farouq and conducted by maestro Emad Ashour.

The first part of the show will have a classic feel, very similar to Umm Kulthum’s original stage set, and the second part will present the song Al Atlal in an innovative style, with the latest and most creative uses of theatre technologies, to transform the classic poem/song into something modern, sophisticated, and both visually and vocally stunning. jacc-kw.com

A Tribute to Dalida Dubai Opera House 10 October Celebrate the life and work of legendary singer and icon Dalida on 10 October, with a performance by Palestinian singing sensation Lina Sleibi.

With an incredible voice and unique presence, Lina’s cover of Dalida’s “Helwa Ya Baladi” has garnered over six million hits on Youtube.

This special one-off tribute concert will feature songs in Arabic, English, Italian and French including Bambino, Le Temps Des Fleurs, “Helwa Ya Baladi” and “Salma Ya Salama”. dubaiopera.com

Luxury exemplified Nautilus 2019

Request a test drive and your Lincoln chauffeur will be at your doorstep.

The Lincoln Nautilus embodies the refined elegance with which you approach everything in life. Its meticulously sculpted design, thoughtfully engineered features, and carefully selected materials combine to offer you an impressively luxurious experience unlike any other.

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AVA I L A B L E AT:

DIVER 300M MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED Behind the elegance of every Master Chronometer timepiece is the highest level of testing: 8 tests over 10 days, to ensure superior precision and anti-magnetic resistance.

OMEGA Boutique: Arcades, The Avenues (Phase 4): 2220 1286 I 360 Mall: 2530 9630. Available at selected Morad Yousuf Behbehani showrooms