Surf and Sand in the Capital by Megan Waters
Make the most of September’s balmy temperatures by escaping to an island paradise in the Japanese capital.
W
hile officially a part of Tokyo, the island of Niijima feels a long way from the bright lights and bustle of the capital. Situated about 160 kilometers south of Tokyo, the picturesque isle comprises miles of deserted, white sandy beaches, azure waters and open-air, hot-spring onsen, making it ideal for a relaxing September break. One of seven main islands in the Izu chain, Niijima has been inhabited since the prehistoric Jomon period (archaeologists have unearthed artifacts, including stone and ceramic utensils, on the island). During the Edo period (1603–1868), the island was used as a place of exile for convicts. Nowadays, Niijima draws sun worshippers, surfers, lovers of the great outdoors or those just looking to unwind for a weekend. Easily accessible by overnight ferry from Tokyo’s
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Takeshiba Terminal or speedy hydrofoil in just two and a half hours, the island can also be reached by nine-seater turboprop plane from Chofu Airport in western Tokyo. This 45-minute flight service runs three times a day, weather permitting. It’s important to note that the weight limit includes the weight of both your body and luggage. Once there, you can hire a bicycle or car along the main road in the town center. As the island is predominantly flat, with good roads and beautiful scenery, cycling is recommended. The bikes do vary in quality, though, so enthusiasts should probably bring their own set of wheels. Eleven kilometers long and less than 3 kilometers wide, Niijima has one hotel, a handful of ryokan inns and more than 200 minshuku B&Bs. If you haven’t booked anywhere to stay beforehand, the tourist information
center next to the port can assist with finding you a room for the night. The more adventurous might want to camp at the expansive Habushi campsite on the eastern side of the island. The well-maintained campsite has good amenities, including toilets, showers (albeit cold ones), cooking facilities, kitchenware and barbecue areas. Best of all, it’s free of charge. The unspoiled beaches, which boast some of Japan’s best surfing spots, attract surfers and sunbathers from far and wide. Favorites are Mamashita Beach, on the southwest side of the island, and Secret Beach, close to the airport. Protected by towering, white cliffs, the almost empty beaches provide a serene spot from which to enjoy island life. Look out for Mount Fuji, which can be seen from Maehama Beach on a clear day. The Yunohama hot springs are a particularly popular spot for tourists
OUT & ABOUT
Moyai Hill TOKYO
NIIJIMA
Habushiura Beach
Mamashita Onsen
and locals alike. Take in a sunset from the Greek-style, open-air baths, which offer spectacular panoramic views of the ocean from a hill near the port. Free of charge and open 24 hours a day, the mixed onsen contains six pools of different sizes and temperatures and is drawn from the ocean below. Meanwhile, Mamashita onsen offers open-air bathing, a sauna and a sand bath. Overlooking Yunohama and Maehama beaches is Moyai Hill, which is covered by more than 100 large stone carvings. One of these giant moyai (which means to work together or collaborate in the local dialect) statues was presented by the island to Tokyo in 1980 for the city’s 100th anniversary celebration as Japan’s capital. The statue can be found on the western side of Shibuya Station. At the world-renowned Niijima Glass Art Center, which hosts the
Niijima International Glass Art Festival each fall, visitors can create their own glass or view the glasswork exhibited here. The unusual, olive-colored glass is made from a local volcanic rhyolite called kogaseki, which is found in only two places in the world: Niijima and the Sicilian island of Lipari. Sporty types can scale the island’s highest point, the 432-meter Mount Miyatsuka, or take part in the Niijima Triathlon, held each May. For something a bit more laid-back, you could while away an afternoon with a spot of mackerel fishing. Just a short ferry ride away, the nearby island of Shikinejima, with only 600 residents, offers plenty more opportunities to unwind before the inevitable return to Tokyo’s concrete side. o
Nine hours by overnight ferry or 2.5 hours by hydrofoil (www.tokaikisen.co.jp) from Takeshiba Terminal in Tokyo.
Forty-five minutes by New Central Air Service (www. central-air.co.jp) from Chofu Airport. Niijima Glass Art Center www.niijimaglass.org Niijima www.niijima.com Niijima Tourist Association www.kanko-kyokai-niijima.net (Japanese only) Tokyo Travel Guide www.gotokyo.org
Waters is a Tokyo-based freelance journalist.
Explorations beyond the Club 41