MEGAN BLAKEMORE PROMOTIONAL PUBLICATION
1.
I am a final year Contour Fashion student at De Montfort University, in Leicester, soon to graduate in July 2016.
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CONTENTS
DESIGNER PROFILE 03. Designer PROFILE 04. technical work 06. Swimwear 08. Cabinet of Curiosities 10. gossard 12. Trend prediction 14. internships 18. contact details
Throughout my degree the structure of the course has instilled me with not only design, technical and construction skills but an understanding of the intimate apparel industry which I am keen to pursue a career in. I am a hard working, motivated and enthusiastic individual who understands the important of working to a deadline, whether it is a technical or aesthetic project. I am technically minded, believing that the fit of a garment is of the highest importance yet I understand that a product can only be economically successful if it is aesthetically pleasing.
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With experience using Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator and Indesign, I eager to develop my skills even further to keep up with new technologies, understanding the importance of moving forward.
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Six Knicker technical project involved the study of six commercial knickers, pattern cut and replicate them. Important elements were analysing construction and fabric qualities.
Fabric and Components
Garment Specification Front Product no
Season
SS14
Description
Malena harness thong
Garment type
Thong
Fabric
Satin silk and powermesh
Price
£45
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Division
Designer
Design no
Size range
Megan Blakemore
M/L
Date
Product no
26/08/2014
Measurement Specification Season
SS14
Product no
Season
SS14
Description
Malena harness thong
Design no
Garment type
Thong
Description
Malena harness thong
Garment type
Thong
Fabric
Satin silk and powermesh
Price
£45
Fabric
Satin silk and powermesh
Price
£45
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Division
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Division
Designer
Megan Blakemore
Designer
Megan Blakemore
Size range
TECHNICAL
Date
M/L
A
H
26/08/2014
I
Design no
B
E
F
26/08/2014
Design Specification
Product:
J
D
34B Sports Bra
Season:
K
C
Range:
Date:
F
Lycra
Colour:
Black
Designer:
Shock Absorber
Customer:
N/A
Fabric/component
A
A
Embroidery
A
CF
F
Composition Replica Availability Satin Silk
Ref
B
Signature elastic strapping, 40% stretch
Left and Right CF
French Eyelash
Silk satin Cotton gusset
C
French eyelash lace trim
Powermesh, 60% stretch
Black power-
D
E
100% cotton gusset (inside)
F
Gusset
CF
100% cotton
60% stretch
Olive green satin
Left and Right CF
Satin silk
Signature black
Waist CB
40% stretch
Measurement Name
Size M/L
A
Description Fabric
Satin silk and powermesh
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Designer
Megan Blakemore
Pattern piece
Name
Bordelle Thong Seam Centre Front - Side 6mm SA Cut 1. Pair - Silk 6mm SA 2. of 3. 2/9/2014
Side Seam 6mm SA
CF 6mm SA
Thong
Description
£45
Division
ACD
Centre Front CFS Side
Gusset Bordelle Thong Gusset Cut 1. on fold Cotton Jersey 6mm SA 3. of 3. 2/9/2014
3
Garment type Price
M/L
Centre Front CF
Waist 6mm SA
2
Size range
Product no
Date
Quantity 1
Leg 6mm SA
Waist 6mm
Side Seam 6mm SA
1
Bordelle Thong Centre Front Cut 1. on fold - Powermesh 6mm SA 1. of 3. 2/9/2014
No
Malena harness thong
SS14
Gu
2
1
26/08/2014
Comment Cut one on fold Powermesh
Cut one pair Silk Rigid
Cut one of fold Cotton Jersey
OP no 1
Fabric
Satin silk and powermesh
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Designer
Megan Blakemore
Operation description LS CF to CF sides.
Size range
Side Seam
2.5cm Description
Position
Composition/Colour
Supplier
Cost
C
CF Side Length - Olive green silk satin
9cm
A
Warp Knit
Black Rigid
N/A
N/A
D
CF Side Width - Olive green silk satin
6.8cm
CF Top cup Bottom cup Strap
B
Denier
N/A
CF Length
20.5cm
Black Rigid Heavy weight
N/A
E
CF inner Top cup inner Bottom cup inner
F
C
Powernet
Wing
7.5cm
Black 50% stretch
N/A
Leg Length - Olive green silk satin
N/A
G
Lace edge
18.5cm
H
Gusset CF Width and Length
W = 7.2 L = 11cm
I
CB Top Waist Elastic
37cm
F
J
CB Bottom Waist Elastic
37.5cm
G
K
CB Elastic Joining
4cm
L
CB Elastic
9.5cm
D
Fabric/Component
D
Wide elastic
Fold over elastic
E
Fagotting
H
Product no
Garment type
Thong
Description
£45
Division Date
26/08/2014
Machine type Industrial LS machine, black thread.
Press and 3O seams.
Industrial 3O machine, black thread
3O Gusset
Industrial 3O machine, black thread
Bag out gusset and CB elastic.
5
LS 20mm ring to CB elastic.
6
LS CB joining elastic to 20mm ring and 15mm ring.
7
LS waist elastic to side seam.
8
3O seam.
9
Attach sliders to elastic. LS top waist elastic to 15mm ring.
10
11
LS bottom waist elastic to 20mm ring
Trim all loose threads and press
D
Underband
Black 29mm wide 20% stretch
N/A
N/A
CF neckline Underarm Strap CB
Black 7mm wide 20% stretch
N/A
N/A
CF neckline
Black Zig zag design Rigid
N/A
N/A
17
2
Iron
Plough seam flat X2
18
LS/Zi Run on elastic at U/A X2
3
TW
Stabilize centre seam using twin needle tape X2
4
LS
Baste inner sling panel in place at around cup X2
20
LS
5
Zi
Zig zag stitch inner sling at around cup X2
21
swan hook X2 LS/Zi Run on elastic at underband LS/Zi Run on elastic at CB X2
Operation Description
Additional Comments
19 Refer to notches.
LS
Join cup to wing at around cup X2
22
7
Iron
Press seam towards cup X2
23
8
TW
Stabilize along seam using twin needle tape X2
24
3mm
Slider
CB
Black Plastic
N/A
N/A
CF strapping
Black 20% stretch 16mm wide
N/A
N/A
LS
Run on faggotting along top cup neck line X2
Zi
Run back faggotting X2
Industrial lock stitch machine Automated back stitch, 25mm stitch length
TW
Stabilize centre seam using twin needle tape X2
Industrial twin needle
LS
Baste stitch cups to bridge at CF around cup X2
Industrial lock stitch machine Automated back stitch, 25mm stitch length
Iron
Plough seam flat X2
11 12
3mm
Pin and quarter technique to ensure tension is even.
Malena harness thong Satin silk and powermesh
Customer
Female, 18-29 years old.
Designer
Megan Blakemore
Machine Name
Stitch Sample
LS
Gatherered stitch
GS 3Z Z
Industrial LS machine, black thread.
Twin needle tape
T
Industrial LS machine, black thread.
Twin needle boning
TNB
Twin needle wire casing
TNW
Baby over locker
BO
3 Thread overlocker
3O
Industrial 3O machine, black thread Industrial LS machine, black thread. Industrial LS machine, black thread. Industrial LS machine, black thread.
Garment type
Thong
C
M/L
Date
£45
Shock Absorber
Customer:
C D
L E I M
F
26/08/2014
O
G
J
H
K
N P
Q
Reference LS TW BT
TW
Stabilize centre seam using twin needle tape X2
15
TW
Make up CF strap, baste stitch the two layers W/S
Zi
Zig zag machine
Baste in place so they lie flush
together at side X2
Technical Report
Black
07
Product:
N/A
Date:
Measurement Name
34B Sports Bra Range:
Material:
Lycra
Designer:
Shock Absorber
Colour:
Black
Commercial
19/09/2015
Measurement
CF strap length Widest part of CF strap Narrow part of CF strap
170mm 30mm 22mm
CB strap length
165mm
E F
CF neckline length
242mm
Top cup neck edge length
125mm
G H I J
Over bust seam Bottom cup B/R length
173mm 55mm
CF bridge width CF bridge height
17mm 82mm
K L
CF bridge underband width Top cup U/A length
81mm 59mm
M N
Bottom cup U/A length Bottom cup A/C length at U/a
32mm 95mm
O P
Top cup A/C length at CF Bottom cup A/C length at CF
74mm 20mm
Q
Underband width Underband length
29mm 578mm
CB length
72mm
Wing U/A length Wing S/S length CB depth at H/E
165mm
R S T U V
Customer: Reference
N/A Comments
A
My house model typically wears a 32C/34B in lingerie, as you can see over all this is quite a good fit for her. She has never owned a good brand of sports bra, as soon as she put this on she said how comfortable it was and how supported she felt in it. Not only did she still have shape, but it was supportive and not restricting but felt as if she wasn’t wearing a bra at
B
If you look in the top right picture, I will point out the angle of the sports bra as it looks as though it is pulling down on the front and rising up higher at the back, however this could be due to not having the straps tight enough but the model said they were at a comfortable tightness for her so I didn’t want to make them tighter. When comparing the golden triangles, you can instantly see the sportsbra has supported and lifted the mosts breasts and at an even amount too. You can also see they are closer together by 40mm meaning they have compressed a considerable amount. This is ideal for sportsbras as they need to "hold" and support the breasts while doing intense training.
C
D
E
95mm 35mm
Left 200 S
Right 200
Left 172
Right 175
F
T
U
Original
Sportsbra
210
160
V
Technical Report
4 Thread overlocker
Colour:
A B
R
Lock Stitch
Stitch Sample
Fit Analysis
Lycra
Reference
D
A
Reference Code
Zig-zag
Industrial LS machine, black thread.
SS14
Division
3-Step Zig-zag Industrial LS machine, black thread.
Season
Price
Size range
Machine Name
Bias binding tape
14
Season:
Designer:
Trim all loose threads
B
Design no
Fabric
Make up CB straps and attach to other side of
9
Commercial
19/09/2015
Pin and quarter technique to ensure tension is even. Pin and quarter technique to ensure tension is even.
Attatch swan fastening to end of CF strap X2
10mm LS
10
13
Strap elastic
Material:
Range:
N/A
through hiding raw edge of apex X2 LS/Zi Run on elastic at neckline X2
6
05
34B Sports Bra
Customer:
Inset apex into CF strap, LS and turn strap
LS
M/R
G
Technical Report
SS14
3
4
C
C
B
Season
Price
M/L
19/09/2015
16 3mm
S/A 3mm
Measurement Chart
2
4
5
Malena harness thong
A
A
Machine Reference
Design no
B
D
Date:
Season
B
22cm
Construction Specification
Design no
B
CF Waist line
Season:
Pattern Specification
Shock Absorber
Black
Baste top cup to bottom cup at O/B seam X2
1
E
A
Product:
Product no
Designer:
Colour:
Commercial
B
Ref.
Lace Applique
Lycra
G
B
Position
Date:
H
Range:
Material:
LS
Order
E H
H
Description
34B Sports Bra
Season:
A
Ref
Product:
Commercial
19/09/2015
L
Construction Method
Material:
E
G
C
D
Date
M/L
I
E
Silk embroidery bow
Size range
A
B
Zig Zag Stitch
This project focused on two bras which have a technical and aesthetic merit; analyse, pattern cut and perfect on Lectra Modaris. The Modaris emphasis within this project focused on adaprting patterns to industry standard, creating precise measurement charts and fit graded to plus size lingerie.
06
Technical Report
08
4O
Steam presser (iron)
N/A
SP
Hand stitch
N/A
HS
Eyelet machine
N/A
EY
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5.
STATE of matter Swimwear collection for Spring/Summer 2016 inspired by changing states of material and the stages of transition from water into ice, frost, steam and condensation.
SWIMWEAR
The fabrics I had chosen modify structure where the print I created was heavily influnced by transitions of phase.
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RAPERE This project required a more adventurous approach to design. I was inspired by the nature of raptors, exposing their dangerous ruggedness and inner beauty through corsetry.
CABINET OF CURIOSITIES
Delicate lace veils the body bringing a fragility to the heavy, bold structure.
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9.
External Client Measurement Chart
Product:
34B Padded Balcony Bra
Season:
AW 17/18
Date:
10/12/2015
Range:
Material:
Eyelash lace and satin
Colour:
Black
Designer:
Megan Blakemore
Customer:
N/A
Reference A B C D
B F J A H
E
This was the first external project Gossard have done outside of Courtaulds, combined with Lectra Modaris this was a very rewarding project. My inspiration came from Momento Mori, meaning day of the dead, I was particularly interested in translating the gothic skeletal shapes into contrasting French leavers lace and applique.
Gossard
G
K
D I L
Measurement Name
Measurement (mm)
CF bridge width Inner neck edge Outer neck edge
23mm 198mm 175mm
Wire casing length
210mm
E F
Side seam
72mm
Underarm
142mm
G H I J
A/C outer bottom cup A/C sling
178mm 112mm
Cradle depth at seam Sling neck edge
12mm 195mm
K L
CF bridge depth Underband length
55mm 627mm
M N
Wing top edge CB
141mm 28 mm
O P
Inner O/B seam Straps
172mm 450mm
P
C O M N
Technical Report
07
Design Specification
Product:
High waist brief
Season:
AW 17/18
Date: Date:
10/12/2015 05/05/2015
Range:
Material:
Eyelash lace and satin
Colour:
Black
Designer: Designer:
Megan Megan Blakemore Blakemore
Customer: Customer:
N/A N/A
Gossard
A
D
B
Ref. A
B
Fabric/Component
Description
Position
Composition/Colour
Leavers Lace
Inner top cup Inner bottom cup CF bridge
Eyelash lace Scallop edge Rigid with mechanical stretch Black
Simon Butler Contour Fabric Specialist Nottingham
£3 per metre
Outer bottom cup Outer sling Side cradle
Black One way stretch Boselli Satin
Simon Butler Contour Fabric Specialist Nottingham
£5 per metre
Black 25% stretch 5mm wide
N/A
N/A
Satin
C
Picot elastic
D
Powernet
Technical Report
Legs Waist band
Wing
Black 35% stretch
Supplier
Contour Shop
Cost
£3 per metre
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11.
Existence This trend forecasting project focused on developing two concepts for Spring/Summer 2017. I took inspiration from the ocean depths, revealing alien-like life forms and other wordly hybrids that shimmer and glow through darkness. This concept explores the dry tactility of mineral growth structures informs sheer distorted cottons and delicate crepe from lightweight sheers to soft summer tailoring.
Trend Prediction EXISTENCE SPRING/SUMMER2017
EXISTENCE
EXISTENCE SPRING/SUMMER2017
MESH INSPIRED FABRICS/EXTENDED DIMENSIONS/NEW TAKE ON NET TEXTURES
EXISTENCE SPRING/SUMMER2017
IRIDESCENCE
SPRING/SUMMER2017
POROUS FIBRES/DRY TACTILITY OF MINERAL GROWTH/
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Almeida
Sparklewren
Working alongside Tamara Bell at her independent lingerie brand in London for several weeks during summer gave me fantastic insight into what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like running your own brand. At my time here I was able to follow through the process of designing the S/S15 collection, assisting pattern drafting, garment construction and was able to witness the collaboration between designer and photographer during the photoshoot for the accompanying look book. I was also given the opportunity to go to factories where they manufacture the garments as well as creating technical packs for the garments.
During my time at Sparklewren, I was lucky enough to witness the interaction between designer and customer for bespoke pieces. I was also able to learn valuable skills and techniques used in corsetry and bespoke garments working with a variety of materials and hand finishes. It was fascinating to work alongside a highly commended corsetiere.
June - Sept. 2014
Work experience
May 2015
UNA BURKE June 2014
I was very lucky to spend a few days with Ă&#x161;na Burke, a multi-award winning Luxury Leather Accessories Designer and Artist.
14.
Whilst working with Una I was taught a fundamental knowledge of leather as well as different techniques to apply to leather creating a final product which I can now relate to all aspects of my design work.
15.
I was lucky enough to have been given the opportunity to work back stage at Graduate Fashion Week 2015 alongside my colleagues.
Graduate fashion week
ACHIeVEMENTS Finalist for S/S 17 Trend Book for Lepel Black Label Competition â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cabinet of Curiositiesâ&#x20AC;? in-house catwalk for a panel of industry
3rd June 2015
Performance Art Ba (Hons) contacted me regarding my Victorian inspired compression corset to wear during a performance in a local archive, New Walk Museum.
It gave me great insight and experience to how major catwalks are set up and run, working in such a fast paced and high-pressured environment made me feel right at home.
>Finalist for Parisian Chic Catwalk.
Kiss me deadly
Held an exhibition at a studio space in Hereford for my Final Major Project in which University of the Arts London came to see.
31st March - 7th April 2015
I was lucky enough to have been offered an opportunity to work with the Kiss Me Deadly team at their warehouse in Sheffield. During my time here I got a great insight into the business side of a well-known brand, assisting with returns on the system, picking and organizing the warehouse.
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< > Flat 17 100 Vaughn Way, Leicester, LE1 4SH. 07896741050
MeganBl1994@hotmail.co.uk
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