FOOD & DRINK
OWEN DAVIES
SINGING the BLUES OWEN DAVIES from the Cheese Pantry serenades us with all we need to know about the King of English Cheese – the Stilton
A
s we see the nights draw in and as we grab for those extra layers, so we see a change in our diet and in what we crave for. And as Christmas approaches we start fantasising about cheeseboards, chocolates and good cheer (by which we mean port, of course!) Blue cheese is back in the limelight at this time of the year and for our part it’s all about the King of English Cheese, AKA the Stilton. Stilton is a PDO cheese which means it’s protected and can only be made in the counties of Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire. It follows other regulations including that the cheese must be made in a cylinder shape and must be made with pasteurised milk. Stilton is said to date back as early as the 1700s and is now one of the most recognised blue cheese types around the word; it’s hard to believe that only seven dairies remain to make all that Stilton! Our favourite Stilton dairy at Cheese Pantry is Colston Bassett, one of the smaller Stilton makers, which remains in the hands of a farmer’s cooperative. Colston have been making Stilton for over 100 years and follow traditional cheesemaking methods, including
the important hand labelling of the curds – this gives Colston its distinct smooth and wonderful creamy texture.
TOP TIPS FOR SELECTING STILTON
• Look for a natural, crusty rind. • The interior should be well marbled from the interior to the outer rind. • It should never be too strong, dry or sharp – Stilton sold in supermarkets often tastes metallic, and this should never be the case. • Stilton should be moist, rich, with a meltin-the-mouth smoothness – sometimes with a hint of spice at the end… delicious!
WHAT TO SERVE WITH STILTON?
Drink Port is the classic combination with Stilton – and it works! The rich sweetness of port pairs well with the saltiness and creaminess of Stilton. Alternatives include Ratafia de Champagne, which is slightly lighter than port and made with the same grapes used for Champagne. Stout is also a perfect companion; again, it’s the richness, sweetness and smooth finish that works so well with Stilton. The Cheese & Beer Club nights at Small Bar often have a Stilton-stout pairing! Last month we paired Stilton with Konrad’s Russian Imperial Stout. Crafty Devil, Pipes, Tiny Rebel & Lithian Welsh brewers all have
ALTERNATIVE BLUES MRS BELL’S BLUE
This is one of our favourite blues at Cheese Pantry, and it’s a winner too… it got a super gold at the World Cheese Awards. Made in Yorkshire from ewe’s milk, it’s a little bit nutty, with a wonderful sweetness which contrasts beautifully with the cheese’s inherent saltiness. PERL LAS
Our very own Blue King! Made in Ceredigion by Carwyn Adams, this is a rich, salty blue – surprisingly creamy with a hint of spice towards the end. This blue cheese never fails to impress. HARB OURNE BLU E
Perceptions can be deceiving! With hardly any blue veining, this cheese can often be mistaken for a weak link. How wrong! Made by Ben Harris at Ticklemore Dairy, Devon – this blue cheese packs a spicy and floral punch as it ages. BEAUVALE
Beauvale is our answer to gorgonzola! Made by Cropwell Bishop Creamery, which is also famed for making Stilton, this is their answer to a creamy, continental blue. Super soft and luxurious – just spread it on!
notable examples to play around with – so come grab some Stilton (on the last Sunday of each month). Cracker Fig & Spelt Crackers by Peter’s Yard Marmalade Yes, try it! We stock a blood orange marmalade with port, which is just divine with Stilton! Cheese Pantry is located at Cardiff Central Market. For more: @cheesepantry
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